July 28, 2016
La
Volume 37, No. 10
Papillote
Summer Events in the Hudson Valley
BY: Alison Sprong, AOS Culinary
Unlike other colleges in the area, here at the CIA we only have three weeks of summer break. This does give plenty of opportunity to go out and experience summer in the Hudson Valley. Luckily for us CIA students, some of the best things to do all involve food and are just a short car ride from Hyde Park. Farmers markets, distilleries and festivals are all within 40 minutes of campus and all perfect for a weekend day trip. Here is a guide to some of the best stops. Fishkill Farms: This 15-acre farm in Hopewell Junction, NY offers you pick produce beginning in June and runs through the fall. In the late summer months, visitors are able to pick blackberries, peaches and nectarines. Fishkill Farms also features a farm store which offers baked goods, cheeses and other local products. Behind the farm store is a patio that looks over the apple orchard there where they encourage picnicking. If you follow the
photo courtsey of Taconic Distillery
farm on Facebook you can be in the know about their frequent special events, such as the yoga classes they hold on the property. Taconic Distillery: For the over 21 crowd, Taconic Distillery is open in Millbrook, NY for the summer. They specialize in whiskeys and bourbons and focus on the traditional American style of distilling. For students not quite of age, they also make maple syrup that is aged in their bourbon barrels.
Hyde Park Farmers Market: Across from the Stop n Shop right up the street is the Hyde Park farmers market. Every Saturday from 9am to 2pm, vendors sell local produce, prepared foods and crafts. If you want to make a day out of it, there are more than 10 farmers markets in Dutchess county. The Rhinebeck farmers market is also very popular and is open from 10am – 2pm every Sunday all year. Dutchess County Fair: The
Nationwide Cook Shortage
week that we return from break (August 22nd for those of you trying to forget) the Dutchess County Fair will be in full swing at the Dutchess County Fairgrounds up in beautiful Rhinebeck, NY. The fair has numerous different features including antiques, arts and crafts, a wildlife exhibit and over 300 vendors of shopping. The most important feature, of course, is the food. Highlighted during the fair is the field to table and harvest kitchen exhibits. The field to table building is basically a pop up county store. They will have local honeys, jams, candies and many other sweet items. The harvest kitchen will have local chefs from all over New York State hosting demos on everything from how to taste chocolate to how to make fresh mozzarella. Several of the demos have tastings at the end so be sure to get a good seat. Hudson Valley Wine and Food Fest: Mark your calendars for the Hudson Valley Wine & Food Fest at the Dutchess County Fairgrounds (Rhinebeck,
BY: Ian Gilchrist, AOS Baking & Pastry
Cooks are in short supply, particularly in New York, and the restaurant industry is scrambling to find people to replace vacant positions. Every year, a news outlet features the so-called “Chef Exodus” that is hitting the industry, a growing problem where cooks are deciding to leave the industry as the economy improves. The problem isn’t limited to the East Coast; shortages are appearing in Seattle, San Francisco, and nearly every major city across the United States. Good news for you, recent graduates; according to the Washington Post, there will be at least one applicant for every twelve vacancies. Jobs are certainly not in short supply in this industry, and with the right skills, you could be walking right into your first major gig at a restaurant—if you have the skills. This is all stemming from a serious problem in the restaurant industry—low wages, and unaffordable housing, coupled with an improving economy and declining immigration. The Bureau of Labor reports that the average median monthly income of a line cook is $1200-
photo courtsey of www.firstwefeast.com
1400/month, far too low to live on in major cities, where the average rent price for a single bedroom apartment almost certainly exceeds their income. Additionally, potential large amounts of student loan debt must be considered when making an employment decision. Despite all of this, the United States continues to see restaurants opening every year. Many are pointing to this trend worsening the problem by creating jobs that cannot be filled. But this is ultimately a two-sided problem. While culinary graduates are plentiful, not all students want to become cooks when they graduate.
Some take the opportunity to find work outside of the restaurant kitchen with food organizations, hotels, and health services. There are simply more options for culinary graduates and food service professionals, and potentially more attractive job opportunities with higher pay and benefits. Some turn away from the industry entirely, and many are blaming the labor conditions. Fortune Magazine ran a piece last year (2015) on the cook exodus, interviewing Chef Alfred Portale of Gotham Bar & Grill, a Michelin-starred New York city
restaurant. Gotham was a major destination for cooks hoping to embark on a culinary career Chef Portale said that the number of applicants has dropped sharply. In order to make up for the decline in cooks, salaried employees working up to 70 hours per week, on average, to keep pace with production, and it’s a pace that can only be sustained for so long. At 70 works per week it is difficult to have a good quality of life. Cooks need to rest, and enjoy a healthy work-life balance. That’s why many cooks are leaving the restaurant industry, and seeking employment in other
NY) to close out the summer. On September 10th and 11th hundreds of vendors will come together for a huge festival celebrating what we all know and love. Some of the events will include wine seminars and cooking demos all accompanied by live music. Hard cider breweries, craft beers, distilleries, vineyards, and gourmet foods will all be there each with a booth or even a pavilion to sit and enjoy. Not to mention there will be a food truck “corral” where local trucks serving a huge variety of all different kinds of cuisines. Check out their website to get a complete list of every vendor that will be there. The three week vacation might not seem long enough to do too much, but lucky for us we can spend a lot of time in the Hudson Valley and experience all it has to offer during the summer. Load up those Zipcar credits, or find a friend with transportation, and get out in the area for some Summer fun.
industries. Corporations, hotels, and alternative areas of the food industry are attracting droves of workers, because they can afford to pay higher wages, offer benefits packages. That’s another thing the New York Times has touched on—the industry is growing tired of the screaming, abusive chef stereotype that has driven many away from the industry. Combine this persona with chronic substance and physical abuse problems the industry is plagued by, and it’s not hard to see why cooks are leaving restaurants behind. The restaurant industry should embrace its problems, and commit to a massive restoration, and a top-to-bottom restructuring of kitchens, wages, and labor. Restaurants that can afford to, should be hiring skilled cooks, and paying them higher wages for their skills. The cost of those cooks can be offset by raising prices on menus, something that David Chang, owner of the Momofuku empire has suggested (and is looking into at his restaurants as of 2015). Unless actions are taken soon, the restaurant industry might be too short-staffed, and mass closures will follow.
LA PAPILLOTE
2
Editorial
Papillote
THE NEWSPAPER OF THE CULINARY INSTITUTE OF AMERICA SINCE 1979
En
From the Editor’s Desk
July 28, 2016
July 28, 2016 PUBLISHER The Student Affairs Division EDITOR-IN-CHIEF Kevin J. Markey LAYOUT EDITOR Thiana Anderson ADVERTISING MANAGER Sue Haug CONTRIBUTORS
Fellow Students,
COMPACT
I would be remiss if I didn’t mention recent political events. No matter your affiliation, there is no denying that this is a pivotal moment in American history. I urge everyone to register to vote and if you are not from New York remember to also absentee your ballot. The importance of voting in this election is monumental, and almost unprecedented. One thing that has stuck out most about this election is; that this will very likely be the last of the ‘Baby Boomers’ generation. Our society is at an impasse, a generational shift, one that will shape the rest of our lives. As ‘Millennials’ I believe we are the ‘generation of the informed’. Our ability to access knowledge is better than ever before in history. I cannot stress enough; engage in constructive discussion, have your voice heard, keep your mind open, and listen to opposition understandingly.
Makena Wininger Shelly Loveland Leslie Jennings Kevin Markey Matt Ivins
Dave Whalen Ian Gilchrist Thiana Anderson Alison Sprong
La Papillote, the Newspaper of the Culinary Institute of America since 1979, is dedicated to respecting the mission, history and values of the college. Our primary purpose is to report the news of the institution to the students and other members of the campus community. We examine contemporary issues of the food service and hospitality industries to inform, challenge and develop the minds of students as they aspire to leadership roles in their chosen profession. We reflect the diverse views of the student body and provide a forum for civil discussion. Above all else, in our reporting and features, we strive to be accurate, fair, unbiased and free from distortion. Whenever we portray someone in a negative light or accuse a party of wrongdoing, we will make a real effort to obtain and print a response from that subject in the same issue. We will not plagiarize. Articles and features are expected to be independent assessments on a topic by an individual author. The views expressed are those of the author’s alone. They do not necessarily represent the views or opinions of La Papillote or its staff, nor do they represent the views or opinions of The Culinary Institute of America, or any entity of, or affiliated with the college.
FOOD REVIEW POLICY
As a valuable part of our content, La Papillote offers restaurant reviews. It is in the best interest of our readership to be honest, accurate and fair in providing information and judgment on these establishments. Reviews will reflect the writer’s opinions about the menu, atmosphere and service. Whenever possible, reviews will be conducted with complete anonymity. Permission from the restaurants will not be secured prior. All issues of La Papillote are available online, therefore, the critiqued restaurants, along with the public, can view editions at anytime on the web.
EDITORIAL POLICY
La Papillote welcomes submissions of work from students, chefs and outside professionals. The decision to print is based on the following criteria: quality of content, value of content to our readers, quality of writing, originality, objectivity, layout, and verifiability. Besides the Editor, there are two Copy Editors who read over submitted articles. Major changes will be reported to writers before the issue goes out. However, any other changes that need to be edited close to the deadline may or may not be forwarded to writers. This is due to the fact of lack of time. It is asked for writers to trust the Editor’s decision at this point during layout. Please direct all submissions to: Kevin Markey, Editor-In-Chief at lapapillote.culinary@gmail.com.
This issue is uniquely interesting due to the timing of its arrival. We offer congratulations to the outgoing Bachelors and Associates graduates and we welcome the incoming freshmen in August. But, to all the students who will have been here this summer and will be coming back in the fall, we celebrate a hard earned three week vacation. Whether spending these next few weeks working to make a few bucks or staging to find the right fit in a kitchen, this is still a break. Taking your mind off of course work, even briefly, is a well-earned mental pause.
Enjoy this short break and this short issue though we will return to our 12- page issues when we return in the fall. That being said, if you have an article you’d like to write, or want to expand your portfolio to add media or journalism, keep a look out for our flyers to find our meeting times. We here at La Papillote are looking forward to a very exciting fall. Slaínte, Kevin J. Markey Editor-in-Chief
LETTERS POLICY
Letters to the Editor may not exceed 250 words and they should be exclusive to La Papillote. In selecting letters, the editors try to present a balance of views. We reserve the right to edit for space, clarity, civility and accuracy, and will send you the edited version before publication. If your letter is selected, we will try to reach you in necessary cases to verify the letter’s authenticity, to clarify your motivation, to clarify your relation to the subject for our readers or to verify facts or sources. Letters to the Editor may be sent to lapapillote.culinary@gmail.com with “Letter to the Editor - For Publication” in the subject line. Please include your phone number.
Kevin J. Markey Editor-in-Chief
Thiana Anderson Layout Editor
Makena Winniger Copy Editor
Lauren Byrne Social Media Editor
Jennifer Dunger Photographer
Hanna Krilov Puzzle Editor
NOTICE OF NON-DISCRIMINATION
The Culinary Institute of America (CIA) is an Equal Opportunity Employer committed to the principle of equal opportunity in education and employment. The CIA does not discriminate against individuals on the basis of race, color, sex, sexual orientation, gender identity, religion, disability, age, genetic information, marital status, veteran status, ancestry, national or ethnic origin, or any other protected group or classification under federal or state laws. The following persons have been designated to handle inquiries regarding the nondiscrimination policies: Civil Rights Compliance Officers Joe Morano HR Director-Faculty Relations
Maura A. King Director-Compliance
Title IX and Age Discrimination
Section 504/ADA
Office: Roth Hall Room S324
Office: Roth Hall Room S351
Telephone: 845-451-1314
Telephone: 845-451-1429
Email: J_morano@culinary.edu
Email: m_king@culinary.edu
The Culinary Institute of America
@fblapapillote
1946 Campus Drive Hyde Park, NY 12538 Should you require further information, please visit http://ciachef.edu/consumer-information.
The UPS Store Low Shipping Rates
Get Your Shipments There, On Time, & Intact Moving/Packing Supplies & Boxes Domestic &International Shipping Local Pick-up Service Available Full Copy Services
2600 South Road (Route 9) 845.454.3505 Poughkeepsie Plaza (Near Marshall’s)
Jr. Copy Editor: Ian Gilchrist
@lapapillote
@la_papillote
July 28, 2016
Graduation
3
BPS Graduating Class of July 28, 2016
Applied Food Studies: Alan Andrew Alexander II Aaron Sean Boisvert Jacquelyn Dora Clark Meagan Elizabeth Curtis Alison Clare Gannon Mary K. Geyer Marc Andres Gomez Andrew Christian Hoh Sarah Kelsea Lowman Ana Sofia Pino Rachel Marley Pittelman Yi Si Tan Jillian Marie Vieracker Natasha A. White Zachary Parr Whitlock Baking & Pastry Arts Management: Susan Marlene Armas Emily Elizabeth Brown Erica Cannizzaro Rebecca Anne Chase Elizabeth Nicole Crespo Shannon Michelle D’Agostino Kimberly Marie D’Amelio Laura Tyler Dean Emily Kate Ericson
Gabriella Marisa Fabiano Daniel Patrick Fehnel Devin Symone Holloway Kelsey L. Ilowite Marisa Elyse Klomp Felice Rachel Kotik Emma R. Kreis Amanda Kate Kupiec Jessica Ann Maglione Alexa Marcinko Rachel E. Maynard Alexandra J. Niebur Connor Joseph Rand Elizabeth S. Seitz Marissa Nicole Sforza Skya C. Stark Brian D. Therkildsen Paige Lyn Tobias Brianna N. Tortora Samantha Wong Terri M. Yee Culinary Arts Management: Tushar Alagh Madelene R. Alward Joseph Anthony Barilla Jorge Jesse Bendesky Kayly Marie Browne
Robert Anthony Byers Kimberly Mendoza Camara Matthew E. Cardona Marcos Castro Steven Ilwoo Chang Hyeon Kab Choi Luis Miguel Cordero Juliana Corrado Amber Ann Crigler Harsh Ashwin Dayalani Kodie Jason Engel Yoosang Eom Samantha Eva Farber Andrew Johny Fares Ben Michael Fellenbaum Joseph John Ferrigno Jessica Grace Fink Kurtis Alan Flaherty Brian Francis Cassandra Capri Gaete Amelia Geist Frank James Guido Sierra A. Hardy Marcus Brett Henry Amit Eli Hochstein Kari D. Hogan Haizel Jacob
photo courtesy: Leslie Jennings
Kelsey A. Jordan Hyunyoung Jung Minwoo Jung Jacob Solomon Katz-Berger Claire Kim Ji Hyun Kim Morgan E. Kirchner Kelly Louise Kubala Judith C. Lanza Ryan Michael Lee Sang Hyun Lee Doris Nara Lim Nikolas A. Longo Alanmichael Butler Luck Megan Brittany McLewin John Joseph Mione Eli Antonio Miranda Macarena Ordiales Ortigosa Nathalia Ordonez Serrano Dawon Park Bryce Aaron Pyle Helena S. Quesada Mila Dominique Raffai Holly C. Schultz Kerry A. Schutter Daniel Geremy Sciusco Dylan Matthew Shea
Kala Denise Singleton Drew Mitchel Staherski Sasha C. Steele Aaron Rashaud Tarpley Fletcher William Tingle, III Brendan David Ullmann Riddhi Venkateshwaran Jonathan Michael Viola Christian M. Washington Daniel William Watkins Casey Thomas Wohlfahrt Seungyeon Woo Culinary Science: Amadis Anguiano Oriana Isabelle Anguiano Connor Logan Barton James Dylan Bickmore-Hutt Fecedio Adolphus Douglas III Kaylee Jane Gill Rachel Katherine Green Kathleen Shea Howard Daniel Patrick Landon Melissa Kerry McQuoid Anna Marie Ungricht
feasibility studies, valuations, strategic analyses, development planning, and litigation support. Through its divisions, HVS supplies unique hotel consulting expertise in the areas of executive search, food and beverage operations, gaming, technology, hotel operations, asset management, marketing, interior design, convention centers, shared ownership services, risk management, property tax, parking, golf, spa, sustainability services, and investment banking. With its global coverage, HVS specializes in the appraisal of entire hotel companies such as Hilton Hotels and Resorts and Extend Stay America. As a leading authority and prolific author on the topic of hotel feasibility studies and appraisals, Steve Rushmore has written all six textbooks and two seminars for the Appraisal Institute covering this subject. He has also authored three reference books on hotel investing and has published more than 400 articles. Mr. Rushmore lectures extensively on hotel valuations and investing, and has taught hundreds
of classes and seminars to more than 20,000 industry professionals. He is also a frequent lecturer at major hotel schools around the world, including Lausanne, Penn State, Cornell, Houston, and IMHI. Mr. Rushmore has a BS degree from the Cornell Hotel School, earned an MBA from the University of Buffalo, and attended the Owner/President Management (OPM) program at Harvard Business School. He holds MAI and FRICS appraisal designations and is an American Hotel & Lodging Association Certified Hotel Administrator (CHA). He is also a member of numerous hotel industry and educational advisory boards and committees, including the Industry Real Estate Financing Advisory Council (IREFAC) and the Ecole hôtelière de Lausanne International Advisory Board. In 1999, Mr. Rushmore was recognized by the New York chapter of the Cornell Hotel Society as Hotelie of the Year. He holds a commercial pilot’s license with multi-engine instrument rating and collects hotel key tags.
BPS Graduation Speaker: Steve Rushmore, MAI, FRICS,CHA Founder of HVS
BY: Shelly Loveland, Staff Contributor
photo courtesy: Leslie Jennings
Steve Rushmore is the founder of HVS, a global hospitality consulting organization with 30 offices in major cities around the world, including New York, London, Athens, Dubai, Moscow, New Delhi, Singapore, Shanghai, Buenos Aires, Mexico City, Vancouver, San Francisco, and Chicago. He is responsible for future office expansion and new product development. Mr. Rushmore has provided consultation services for more than 15,000 hotels throughout the world during his 40-year career and specializes in complex issues involving hotel feasibility, valuations, and financing. He was one of the creators of the Microtel concept and was instrumental in its IPO. He is a partner in HEI Hospitality, LLC, a hotel investment fund. HVS, which Mr. Rushmore founded in 1980, has provided consulting services for thousands of clients in all 50 states and more than 60 foreign countries. Its professional staff of more than 400 industry specialists offers a wide range of services, including market
4
LA PAPILLOTE
Graduation
AOS Graduating Class of July 29, 2016
Culinary Arts Group #1
Front Row: Wilson Shin, Rosie McBurney, Kevin Decker, Alexandra Ruddy, Jessica Cox Back Row: Jiayi Bao, Chris Maier Jr., Morgan Delepine, Tristan Heath, Montana Hyman, Kayla Pfeiffer
Culinary Arts Group #3
Front Row: Alanah Rea, Jacob Kuznetsoff, Olivia Meadows, Hunter Hodge, Alex Nekhamkin Back Row: Tyler Laird, Katie Reicher, Cole McCallister, Samuel Lozoff, James Vela, Rachel Guindon
Culinary Arts Group #2
Front Row: Dylan Graziano, Anthony Miami, Nick Spatola, Dahye Jeon, Sofia Kangas, Regina Gutierrez, Jonghee Lee Back Row: Jacob Hunsberger, Ryan McGinty, Stephen Kem, Jeremy Clemens, Beve Julien, Brian Jeon, Danielle Abramo, Greg Calkin, Vincent Londono
Baking & Pastry Arts
Front Row: Sandy Arana, Katie King, Lauren Mazzella, Liz Walsh, Yoonjung Oh, Maggie Rollet, Emilee George Back Row: Angel Torres, Mary Higgins, Soohyun Park, Alyssa Basil, José Ganem, Alexander Schmidt, Amanda Benczkowski
AOS Graduation Speaker: Håkan Swahn Owner of Aquavit
BY: Shelly Loveland, Staff Contributor
photo courtesy: Leslie Jennings
Håkan Swahn has more than 30 years of experience in the restaurant industry. His highest achievement is the opening of Aquavit, the first fine dining Scandinavian restaurant in the United States. Aquavit remains dedicated to telling the story of the rich culinary heritage of Scandanavia and remains a pioneer of the region’s cuisine in the U.S. Born in Västerås, Sweden, Mr. Swahn attended the renowned Stockholm School of Economics, where he earned an MSc in business administration with a specialization in marketing, accounting, and finance. His first job after school was a position as brand executive for Procter & Gamble Scandinavia. In 1980, Mr. Swahn moved to New York to work for the Swedish Trade Commission’s Food Division. Through this position and the connections created, he realized his desire to work in the hospitality industry. Two years later, Mr. Swahn launched his own business, Smörgåsbord, Inc.,
to promote Swedish cuisine in the U.S. Through Smörgåsbord, Inc., he formed a close relationship with Tore Wretman, the most famous Swedish chef of his generation. Chef Wretman, then 70, owned five restaurants in Sweden and dreamed of opening one in New York City. Enthusiastically, the 28-year-old Håkan Swahn agreed to find investors and a space. In November 1987, Aquavit opened its doors and has been a premier dining destination in Manhattan ever since. Mr. Swahn travels to Sweden frequently, where he has family, many friends, and close relationships with chefs and food producers. He always returns to New York filled with fresh inspiration and a reaffirmed dedication to making Aquavit a world-class modern Scandinavian restaurant experience. In addition to opening Aquavit, Mr. Swahn founded Townhouse Restaurant Group, a restaurant management and consulting business, in 2003. The company
has developed and managed various concepts in New York—including Riingo in the Alex Hotel, August, and, most recently, AQ Kafe, a Northern European café and bakery concept. He also manages C-House in the MileNorth Hotel in Chicago. Additionally, Mr. Swahn developed Aquavit New York, an Aquavit-branded white cranberry flavored vodka for the international market. Aquavit opened a licensed location in Tokyo in fall of 2008 and plans are underway to open another location in London this coming fall. Håkan Swahn’s biggest industry honor is being recognized by the Michelin Guide New York City 2013 with one star, retaining the star in 2014, and then achieving two Michelin stars in 2015 under the direction of Executive Chef Emma Bengtsson, only the second female chef in the country to achieve this honor. The restaurant has retained its two stars in 2016.