Volume 37, No. 14
November 11, 2016
La
Papillote
America Has Spoken: For Better or Worse...
BY: April Johnson, AOS Culinary
The 2016 presidential election was one we will never forget. Hillary Clinton and Donald Trump made for memorable candidates, with very different perspectives about how to run our country. On Tuesday, November 8th, America voted for our next president, and Donald J. Trump was elected. Trump won the election with a total of 279 electoral votes, while Clinton only had 228 electoral votes (at the time of printing). To win the Presidency, a candidate needs to win 270 electoral votes. Each state gets a certain number of electoral votes, which is based on the population for that state. Electors are members of the Electoral College who cast the electoral votes for their states. It is these votes that elect a president, while the popular vote is the results of how we, the people, vote on election day. There have been
The 2016 Presidential Electoral Map as of November 9th, 2016 @ 9 PM.
5 times where the popular vote has differed from the electoral vote. This year was one of them, with
Cannabis Chef
BY: Amanda Lamperti, AOS Baking & Pastry
If there is one thing many working in the food industry has tried experimenting with, it is marijuana. No matter the reason for smoking, marijuana is an international culture that many people feel very strongly about. Cannabis is currently high on the national conversation but is also somewhat taboo. The connotation that comes with weed is that it is just plain bad for you. If you have anything to do with it, it probably is not for any good reasons; educational, medical health-enlightening purposes. Right? Wrong. In truth, marijuana and the whole cannabis plant is being further studied by well-educated leaders in this plant-based industry. One of he main pioneers of this industry combined his passion for food with cannabis to create a booming business, a new breakthrough in the food world. His name is Chef Chris Sayegh, better known as The Herbal Chef, and he is currently expanding
his business to enlighten people about the benefits of marijuana when it is combined with the pure and simple ingredients to create Michelin- quality dishes. This 24-year old entrepreneur is leading the change in the way people eat fine dining. Chef Sayegh’s business is focused on the whole experience that comes with fine dining. His experience in working in Michelin Star restaurants brings the skills to the table that other people experimenting with the health benefits of weed do not have. This is what makes Chef Sayegh so renowned and ahead of this booming business that is accumulating billions of dollars. So, how is it that someone could draw these two ideas together, food and cannabis? During a phone interview I had with him, Chef Sayegh explained before he started working towards becoming a chef, he was in medical school and certainly had his experimental days. “While I was at school at UC Santa Cruz, I smoked a lot of weed. I, then, became interested in it, and
“Campus” CIA News, ACPDC
“Feature” Millennials, “Why, Chef?”
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photo courtesy: politico.com
Clinton taking more than 200,000 votes more than Trump, but still losing the election.
Some states electoral votes make or break who wins the election. These states are called
started to educate myself. I took a scientific approach.” After becoming interested in the marijuana business, Chef Sayegh realized that there are many myths about marijuana; manufacturers and companies want you to think a
certain way rather than the whole truth. This is definitely something that is not a foreign concept, especially in the U.S. Chef Sayegh continued to say, “I realized severely quickly we were being lied to. Cannabis had huge reasons to
get out of the industry because there were less resources.” Finding out this information was the perfect cornerstone to putting his two passions together. Chef Sayegh had grown
Cont’d on pg 4
Chef Sayegh, dubbed ‘The Herbal Chef’, shows off the ingredients of his specialty dishes. photo courtesy: ibtimes.com
Papillote
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swing states. Political analysts say that this election’s swing states were: Colorado, Florida, Iowa, Michigan, Nevada, New Hampshire, North Carolina, Virginia, Ohio, Pennsylvania and Wisconsin. While Clinton won, Colorado, Nevada and Virginia, Trump won Flordia, Iowa, North Carolina, Ohio, Pennsylvania, and Wisconsin. Trump is our newly elected president. Time will tell if America made the right choice for president or not. We do know one thing for sure, Trump’s policies call for changes to be made in our government, and we will see if they will be able to accomplish all their campaign promises during their four years of office. Trump will be sworn in as the new president on January 20, 2017.
CENTER SPREAD
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“Feature” Women in Food, International Chefs Congress
BACK PAGE
“Entertainment” Puzzles & Comics “Sports” Fall Wrap-up
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LA PAPILLOTE
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Editorial
Papillote
THE NEWSPAPER OF THE CULINARY INSTITUTE OF AMERICA SINCE 1979
En
November 11, 2016
PUBLISHER The Student Affairs Division EDITOR-IN-CHIEF Kevin J. Markey LAYOUT EDITOR Alexis Brown ADVERTISING MANAGER Sue Haug CONTRIBUTORS April Johnson Amanda Lamperti Jeff Levine Ian Gilchrist Matt Stocker Raymond Delucci
From the Editor’s Desk
Eliot Hack Gabriella Oneil Daniel Salisbury Nick McManus Kevin Markey Alexis Brown
COMPACT
La Papillote, the Newspaper of the Culinary Institute of America since 1979, is dedicated to respecting the mission, history and values of the college. Our primary purpose is to report the news of the institution to the students and other members of the campus community. We examine contemporary issues of the food service and hospitality industries to inform, challenge and develop the minds of students as they aspire to leadership roles in their chosen profession. We reflect the diverse views of the student body and provide a forum for civil discussion. Above all else, in our reporting and features, we strive to be accurate, fair, unbiased and free from distortion. Whenever we portray someone in a negative light or accuse a party of wrongdoing, we will make a real effort to obtain and print a response from that subject in the same issue. We will not plagiarize. Articles and features are expected to be independent assessments on a topic by an individual author. The views expressed are those of the author’s alone. They do not necessarily represent the views or opinions of La Papillote or its staff, nor do they represent the views or opinions of The Culinary Institute of America, or any entity of, or affiliated with the college.
FOOD REVIEW POLICY
As a valuable part of our content, La Papillote offers restaurant reviews. It is in the best interest of our readership to be honest, accurate and fair in providing information and judgment on these establishments. Reviews will reflect the writer’s opinions about the menu, atmosphere and service. Whenever possible, reviews will be conducted with complete anonymity. Permission from the restaurants will not be secured prior. All issues of La Papillote are available online, therefore, the critiqued restaurants, along with the public, can view editions at anytime on the web.
November 11, 2016
Fellow Students,
I am supposed to use these letters as a way to lead my peers. As a way to inflect optimism and hope in the world. Today, I am finding that challenge to be greater then it has ever been before. I refrained from expressing my political views during the entirety of the campaign cycle out of some moral belief that journalists should be unbiased, that if I presented the facts the readers would make up their own mind and make the right choice. Is it possible the right choice was made? Maybe, but I highly doubt it. Where do we go? What do we do now? The outgoing President has called for unity, called for support of the President-Elect. Is that what would have been called for had the tides been reversed? Impossible to say, and as there is no point pandering to the what-ifs, I say enough is enough. I have no intention of unifying with people that have hate in their heart. No longer will I sit idly by while my fellow country folk use hate as rhetoric. The time has come to choose sides, and I choose love. I choose to fight for the side that doesn’t judge a person based on the color of their skin, or the sex they were born. I choose to believe that our country is better than hate doctrine. I choose not to fight in the realm of social media, but within the real media. Sláinte, Kevin J. Markey Editor-in-Chief
EDITORIAL POLICY
La Papillote welcomes submissions of work from students, chefs and outside professionals. The decision to print is based on the following criteria: quality of content, value of content to our readers, quality of writing, originality, objectivity, layout, and verifiability. Besides the Editor, there are two Copy Editors who read over submitted articles. Major changes will be reported to writers before the issue goes out. However, any other changes that need to be edited close to the deadline may or may not be forwarded to writers. This is due to the fact of lack of time. It is asked for writers to trust the Editor’s decision at this point during layout. Please direct all submissions to: Kevin Markey, Editor-In-Chief at lapapillote.culinary@gmail.com.
LETTERS POLICY
Letters to the Editor may not exceed 250 words and they should be exclusive to La Papillote. In selecting letters, the editors try to present a balance of views. We reserve the right to edit for space, clarity, civility and accuracy, and will send you the edited version before publication. If your letter is selected, we will try to reach you in necessary cases to verify the letter’s authenticity, to clarify your motivation, to clarify your relation to the subject for our readers or to verify facts or sources. Letters to the Editor may be sent to lapapillote.culinary@gmail.com with “Letter to the Editor - For Publication” in the subject line. Please include your phone number.
Kevin J. Markey Editor-in-Chief
Alexis Brown Layout Editor
Lauren Byrne Social Media Editor
Alison Sprong Copy Editor
NOTICE OF NON-DISCRIMINATION
The Culinary Institute of America (CIA) is an Equal Opportunity Employer committed to the principle of equal opportunity in education and employment. The CIA does not discriminate against individuals on the basis of race, color, sex, sexual orientation, gender identity, religion, disability, age, genetic information, marital status, veteran status, ancestry, national or ethnic origin, or any other protected group or classification under federal or state laws. The following persons have been designated to handle inquiries regarding the non-discrimination policies: Civil Rights Compliance Officers Joe Morano HR Director-Faculty Relations
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Will Bocker Photo Editor
November 11, 2016
Campus
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‘La Papillote’ Takes Home National Award
BY: Kevin Markey, Editor-in-Chief
Layout Editor Alexis Brown & Editor-in-Chief Kevin Markey pose in the lobby of The Grand Hyatt Hotel D.C. with La Papillote’s 9th Place, Best of Show Award. photo courtesy: Unknown
On the 21st of October, over 1400 college journalists gathered at the Grand Hyatt Hotel in Washington D.C. for the National College Media Convention. It was quite the spectacle to see, all of these young minds in one place for one common goal; to become better journalists. For the first time La Papillote was in attendance. Myself, along with Layout Editor Alexis Brown, represented our great publication to the likes of NYU, USC, Michigan, Pepperdine, Duke, and many more. On Thursday night opening Keynote Speaker Donna Brazile, Head of the Democratic National Committee spoke about how bright the future of journalism is, setting the tone for the rest of the weekend. The room was packed full as she described how the future of journalism rests on the shoulders of us all. The responsibility to report the news in an unbiased manner is one of the most important aspects of this career path. On Saturday afternoon, I
was honored to present a session, ‘The Future of Food Journalism’. While I have been to several conferences and conventions strictly as an attendee, this was my first time as a speaker. I am proud to say that the presentation was a success, and I was able to network with several students from newspapers all over the country that are interested in covering food in a sustainable and investigative manor. On Saturday night there was an award ceremony with many different categories. I am very pleased to announce that La Papillote walked away winning 9th place for General Excellence in the ‘Best of Show’ category. This award is a tribute to all of the hard work that every contributor has put in over the last year of my tenure. While the staff of La Papillote is very proud of this award, so should every CIA student be, past and present. As the Editor-in-Chief, it is my privilege to cover such a prestigious school through its now award winning publication.
CIA News
BY: Jeff Levine, Staff Contributor
TRIPADVISOR ALINEA BEST RANT IN U.S.
NAMES RESTAU-
Alumnus Grant Achatz ’94 has the top restaurant in the country, as ranked by TripAdvisor. According to its website, “Award winners were determined using an algorithm that took into account the quantity and quality of reviews for restaurants around the world, gathered over a yearlong period.” TripAdvisor’s 2016 Travelers’ Choice Awards included the top 25 fine dining locations in the United States and around the world. Chef Achatz’s Alinea in Chicago was number one! Also in the top 10 are Restaurant Gary Danko in San Francisco at #8, owned by CIA grad Gary Danko ’77 and two restaurants from CIA trustee Thomas Keller: Per Se in New York City at #3 and The French Laundry in Yountville, CA at #9. CIA AT COPIA OPENS November marks the opening of the CIA at Copia in Napa, CA. The facility is expected to quickly become the ultimate Napa Valley destination for exploring, experiencing, and enjoying the world of food and wine. Visitors and locals can attend cooking and beverage classes in the Napa Valley Vintners Theater, shop for the best in
home goods at the lifestyle store, delight in family-friendly events, dine in the new restaurant, and more. “CIA at Copia is entirely dedicated to offering its innovative, industry-leading food and wine education and experiences to the public. It opens a window into what the CIA truly is: a visionary thought-leader and innovator in food and beverage, with worldclass faculty and facilities,” said Thomas Bensel, managing director of CIA’s California campus. “CIA at Copia’s educational programming takes our enthusiast programming to another level, for people of all ages and interests.” Daily culinary demonstrations and wine tastings bring together acclaimed vintners, chefs, visiting scholars, educators, and food and wine leaders who shape the industry, for compelling and thought-provoking programs. The restaurant will be a destination for market-based, Mediterraneaninspired, California cuisine that pairs perfectly with Napa Valley wines and craft cocktails. The shop at Copia will offer kitchen tools and locally crafted home goods; cookbooks by CIA faculty, alumni, and guest chefs; as well as artisanal food products, CIA branded items, and much more. The Wine Hall of Fame and
atrium wine tasting experience at CIA at Copia are anticipated to debut in the spring 2017, and the Chuck Williams Culinary Arts Collection and a state-ofthe-art teaching kitchen both have planned openings in late summer 2017. For additional information, visit www.ciaatcopia.com. NEW YORK CAMPUS AGAIN HOSTS THEATRE COMPANY Half Moon Theatre, the only professional theater company in the Hudson Valley that produces a
traditional season of plays and musicals, once again calls the CIA its home stage for is 201617 season. For the third straight year, the CIA’s Marriott Pavilion is where Broadway comes to the Hudson Valley. Half Moon ticket buyers also receive priority access to CIA restaurants. A highlight of this season is the spring 2017 regional premiere of Cul-de-Sac, a new comedy by the acclaimed American playwright John Cariani. Mr. Cariani is also a Tony-nominated actor, having recently starred in Broadway’s Something Rotten and the new off-Broadway musical The Band’s Visit with Tony Shalhoub.
Half Moon’s 2016-17 season also features a sizzling cabaret series that features area artists, New York City’s hot young talents, and veteran Broadway stars like Mary Testa and Michael Starobin; the family holiday favorite, A Christmas Carol; and a powerful re-telling of the Anne Frank story: Yours, Anne. For tickets, show details, and directions, visit www.halfmoontheatre.org.
The outdoor ampatheater at CIA Copia, in the heart of historic downtown Napa, CA. photo courtesy: Victor Samuel
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LA PAPILLOTE
Features
Millennials,“Why, Chef?”
cont’d from front
BY: Ian Gilchrist & Matt Stocker, AOS Baking & AOS Culinary
The restaurant industry is in the throes of a massive upheaval. Millennials have officially become a force to be reckoned with in the job market, and the desire for a democratic restaurant industry is forcing chefs to adapt. At the recent International Chef’s Congress in Brooklyn, New York from October 23-25, Chef Eric Korsh declared, “The era of the screaming chef is dead, my friends.” Each year in Brooklyn, StarChefs hosts the International Chef’s Congress, a gathering of industry professionals and companies. Restaurant industry professionals and business owners discuss the state of the industry and current trends. Millennials have become a hot subject in the food industry, namely because of the ever-growing shortage of qualified cooks, and the desire for a more “democratic” industry. This generation, defined as anyone born between 1979-1996, is vocal about the need for reforms such as; higher pay, better hours, improved working conditions, and better employers. Unlike older generations of cooks, many in the new generation simply are not satisfied with saying “Yes, Chef!” to every task. More importantly, unlike any generation before, many millennials resist the often-stereotyped image of a chef requiring long hours, back breaking work, and little pay. This has led chefs to consider adopting the “Danny Meyer Model” (Union Hospitality Group), ditching the American system of tipping and increasing menu prices to account for higher wages.
Millennials in this industry are often viewed as a group that has been fed Food Network and led to believe the “celebrity chef” is an accurate portrayal of the working conditions. Attendees at the Chef’s Congress commented that Millennials “Lack passion” and are remarkably resistant to criticism and hold onto a false reality of movement in the kitchen hierarchy. Perhaps these are valid points, and worth working on, but why can’t this generation change the industry? John Sundstrom, Executive Chef of Lark in Seattle, said that millennial cooks are looking for not just a good paycheck, they demand training and a certain level of quality from the work environment. The restaurant’s work culture must also be attractive, not in a glamorous sense, but socially. Pilar Chapa Trevino of Propelled Hospitality Services notes that young cooks are now demanding opportunities for skills advancement. It has also been pointed out that young cooks want to work in restaurants that will acknowledge them for their work, not grind them to a dust. The old French kitchen would take a young cook. and when they’ve finally put in enough hours they can be rebuilt. Millennial cooks know that labor is short, well-trained cooks are hard to come by, and we should be leveraging that to find the best employers. The question that remains unanswered is will the industry respond positively? It all depends on if chefs are willing to adapt. To attract millennials, chefs need to make the greatest change of
Global Valrhona chefs offer support at the Valrhona C3 competition on the photo courtesy: Dan Salisbury main stage of the 11th annual ICC.
all, by becoming accessible. The more chefs give their cooks, the more they open up and show that they too are real people and visa vie the more comfortable the work environment becomes. Cooks simply perform better if they are in a welcoming environment. ‘Union Square Hospitality’ has proven this method works, and other restaurant groups are taking note. Danny Meyer’s Union Square Hospitality was a hot subject at the International Chefs Congress, noted as a prominent game changer in the industry. Some presenters joked that the changing restaurant scene could
be called the “Danny Meyer Effect”. But it is no hoax. Union Square is proving that providing well for your employees in such a generally low-paying industry, truly does benefit the company. The company now provides a variety of training options for employees to expand their skills, including vacation, paid days off, even bonuses. Most famously the company eliminated tipping, and has worked to close the pay gap between cooks and servers. Danny Meyer is providing a blueprint for other industry leaders, and is loudly saying that not only does the industry need to reform, its cooks deserve far better. “This could be the generation that wins the fight for equal wages for the back of the house.” Sundstrom said, “With younger cooks in the back, waitresses start to realize that they are being underpaid.” If anything, millennials are known as a generation that will fight. This generation faces an uphill battle to prove itself, but out of that struggle we may witness the birth of a radically different kitchen culture. The brigade system may not be on the way out, but changes are taking root in the industry. They may be painful at first, and it is likely we’ll lose businesses that can’t adapt. Traditionally, it’s the Chef that breaks the cook down, only now it’s the cook that is breaking apart the industry. This new generation of cooks, might just rebuild it better and more resilient than it has ever been.
up around food. His family was Middle-Eastern, coming from Jordan and cooking was in his blood. After Chef Sayegh took the expected path of his family by going to medical school, until he became involved with marijuana. This is when it clicked with him as something he was meant to do. “I had an epiphany. It was so natural,” said Chef Sayegh. He left medical school to study under some of the best chefs in Michelin Star restaurants. His passion remained with food. Chef Sayegh is creating something new, a completely unthought of experience, one totally out of the box. Through all this brings certain challenges. “Integrity of the food is the most important thing for me.” When asked if the cannabis in his food is highly noticeable, he said, “They will never taste it. Not unless I want them to.” “They will never taste it. Not unless I want them to.” Chef Sayegh passionately describes the dining experience his guests go through while eating his food. “I am creating a symphony,” he explains. Chef Sayegh meticulously plans the experience his diners will have. “I start serving the light stuff first, little delicate bites to intrigue the palate. Thirty minutes in, they start getting the munchies. Through the main courses, they are in a state of beautiful euphoria. Then I end with desserts and petifours.” Being the sole leader of this business is not as peachy as it sounds. Chef Sayegh described the complete liability and responsibility he holds for the health of anyone consuming his food. There is a lot of math, lab research, and a lot of experimental science that comes with setting the standards of this business. Serving a customer too much marijuana could mean trouble. That is why it takes a special, meticulous and detailed- driven chef to make this idea a reality. Even the way Chef Sayegh extracts oils from the cannabis is attuned to how he personally had to make this work. “I figured out how to take the flower that people would use to smoke and get high, and extract the THC and CBD from it the plant oils. I am not adding anything, just taking the state of the plant that I want. No one has done this before me, I learned for myself, and hope to pass my legacy onto other chefs in the future that wish to follow in my footsteps.” Chef Sayegh continues to educate people on the 100% medical benefits marijuana has, but some people do not understand it or do not take it seriously. Chef Sayegh is positive cooking with cannabis will be bigger than any other food business, already growing with billions of dollars and projected to be unprecedented at rates higher than any other industry.
ON CAMPUS
November 11, 2016
reThink Food Conference
BY: Raymond Delucci, AOS Culinary
What if you could grow a small garden in your dorm room? Imagine a small garden in the corner of your room, where you could grow lettuce, tomatoes, cucumbers, pretty much any feasible plant that you can grow from the dirt. Not possible, right? How about taking it a step further, and imagine that the
no pesticides are needed. It controls the climate surrounding the plants, and adapts to each plant. The plants are grown in modules with sensors. The sensors relay data back to the gardener through an app. This idea was founded by a man named Caleb Harper. Ideas and many more like this are all what have been discussed in San
food, and the number of animals we consume is destroying our agriculture at an excessive rate. We rely too much on animal production, and not only is it devastating to our food system, but also to the animals themselves. The quick solution to this would to try and produce more of the food by ourselves, but this poses two
Pork Belly Citrus Salad with Jalapeno and Long Pepper served at the Saturday reception. photo courtesy: CIAChef.edu
food that you are growing were all linked individually to an app that relayed information to your phone? The plants would tell you their PH level, if they needed water, and when they were ready for harvest. The idea of this seems extreme, especially to someone who has very little to no experience in the world of gardening. For those who are interested, this idea already exists, along with many more. The process of growing food like this is called aeroponic, it is a small box where
Antonio, Texas. The discussions are held at a Conference called Rethink Food, which is sponsored and held at The Culinary Institute of America campus in San Antonio. Caleb’s presentation, along with other members of the MIT FoodLab, including Kevin Eslet, spoke of this way of transforming agriculture. The first point brought up was how driven our agriculture system is from the production and labor of animals. We rely on animals for
Caleb Harper, founder of the MIT FoodLab, inspects leafy greens grown in photo courtesy: National Geographic one of the ‘food computers’.
problems, according to Harper and Eslet. One, there is a rapid decline of farmers in our generation. The want to go and farm is no longer there for many younger people. Farming is hard, and the idea of weeding a garden or worrying about taking care of a plant in a garden is not something we have time for in our day to day lives. The second problem is that we have so many animals that are now domesticated that we cannot simply allow the animals to just go back in the wild. Take a freerange chicken for example. Without the farmer to protect them, they would likely be dead within weeks. Humans and animals have a very interesting relationship, even though we end up being the demise of the animal, we are the ones who also protect them and keep them alive. So, after considering these problems, Harper’s idea of a private food system for each individual person becomes a more feasible idea. Yes, animals will still be a factor in our systems, but the burden will be lessened. What ties this whole idea together, is that all this agriculture is done through technology. Imagine having plants located in Hyde Park, NY, and San Antonio, TX. Through your app you have total control of the climate, and will only need to go on your app, to water the plant, balance the PH in the climate box, and pretty much will be able to give the plants the care they need. This system will allow new varieties of plants to be formed. This control of plant
Features growth will give chefs the control they need to do amazing things. Imagine getting different flavors out of the same plant, cross-breeding desired plants, or even limiting the growth of the food. You could make the plant produce more sugar for a sweeter taste. Imagine an entire food system all run through data and codes. This will also allow the plant to grow four times faster in the environment. Gone is the worry of drought, chemicals, and the worry of where your food comes from. And all of this would be done through your everyday smartphone. This is a lot to take in, and yes, it will take time before this takes place, but there are entire rooms and buildings devoted to this kind of technology. Another interesting presentation that was delivered at the Conference was from our school’s President, Dr. Timothy Ryan. He was a part of a lecture that focused on how robots affect the kitchen and what they can bring to the table. He addressed the fear of what most modern chefs have today, if we will be needed in the food industry. Will our jobs simply be done better and more precisely done by robotic technology? There are no sick days for robots, they don’t have feelings, and accomplish the tasks they set out to accomplish. Dr. Ryan expresses that chefs are needed and cannot be replaced by technology, but also that robots
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onstrations on the perception of food and flavor. Reasons why we choose to eat what we eat, what it says about us, health based foods, and new types of eating were talked about. There were discussions about wine, mastering flavors, the consumer demands in our industry today, and what it means to be a chef here in a world that moves so fast. These presentations can be found on the Rethink Food website, and I urge all of you to watch and check out the Conference. In closing I would like to pose a question to the students of the campus. What do you think about the state of our food system? Not only in our nation but specifically on our campus. If the climate boxes do become a reality, could you imagine yourself taking care of a group of plants that could potentially feed you? What will the role of the “chef” be ten years from now? Will we eat food the same, especially animals? There are a lot of things to contemplate and think of in our industry. I just ask that you, as a student, and a future representative of the food industry, think. Be active in discussion, come up with great ideas, and shape the food industry to how you want it. Be a force that positively impacts the meaning of being a chef. Challenge your peers to go farther, and reach for new heights. The only limitations we have on ourselves is when we say we can’t
Tish Van Dyke from Edelman delves into the insights provided by the annual Edelman Trust Barometer, exploring the key factors that increase and decrease trust when it comes to business. photo courtesy: CIAChef.edu
are inevitable. He encourages the involvement in using them, and states that The CIA tries to embrace this as well. Robots can have some benefits, look at Caleb Harper’s case and you can see that they can have a big impact. Dr. Ryan’s presence at the conference shows that the school is still amongst the leaders and innovators of the food industry. The rest of the conference talked about topics like media design integrated into the food industry. Media design is defined as making an appealing restaurant environment and artistic ways to plate food. There were dem-
do something. Don’t have any boundaries when it comes to your goal in this industry. Whether you want to be in the kitchen, in the dining room, in a lab or out in the field learning from farmers and chefs, absorb it all and use it to better a food system that is slowly failing. You will be surprised with what you can do with motivation and the ability to have confidence in yourself. Start to Rethink yourself as a chef, and start to Rethink food.
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LA PAPILLOTE
Features
Fall Recipes
BY: Eliot Hack, AOS Baking & Pastry
Avo-toast is so 2015. Welcome to 2016, and the new age of vegetables on toast. Say goodbye to avocados and hello to sweet potato toast. I don’t know where I was when this became a thing, and I’m not sure how I feel about it yet, but it’s been an explosion across the country. People are discovering the joys of the sweet potato with the golden orange color, earthy sweetness, creamy mouth feel. I typically pop one in the oven, and an hour later there’s my dinner. The best part about sweet potatoes is that they have more nutrients than white potatoes.
A sweet potato offers more than twice as much dietary fiber per serving as Idaho spuds. They are also less starchy and less caloric. All this to say, a new food trend has arrived and as chefs we have to be up to date with the goings on in the culinary world. So, the next time you’re at Stop-And-Shop, pick up some sweet potatoes, cut them up with your fancy chef knives and toast them. The choice of toppings is endless, including fresh ricotta, fruits and nuts, or maybe even cream cheese. You could even top your potato toast with avocado. Look at that, full circle.
photo courtesy: Taste of Home
I stumbled upon the idea of apple butter while I was looking for recipes involving apples. ‘Tis the apple season, after all. The only thing I would change is the amount of sugar, or maybe replace it with honey or maple syrup. I’m not a huge fan of refined sugars, which I understand sounds oxymoronic coming from a baker. Other than that, this apple butter is on point, and takes no time at all to prep. Unless you go small dice on the apples, in which
case I can’t help you. Chef isn’t looking. Large dice those apples.
cause of her gender? Recent surveys by the American Culinary Federation reported that female executive chefs earn about $19,000 less per year, than their male counter-parts. Additionally, it is challenging for women to move up in rank as fast as men do, from prep cook to sous chef and beyond. Despite inequality, progression in the culinary world is evident today as women are making huge names for themselves. Cat Cora, Alice Waters, Lidia Bastianich, and Anne Burrell are amongst thousands of prominent women chefs that many of us look up to. In recent media, from local newspapers to magazines and Food Network to Cooking Channel, women have become more and more prominent figures. Some of the country’s fastest growing restaurant companies, such as Batali & Bastianich Hospitality Group, Altamarae Group, and Union Square Hospitality Group recently provided counts of men and women employees, showing that women make up 30 to 50 percent of their staff. Although these numbers may seem low, it does show progression and recognition for women chefs among prominent players in the industry. The culinary industry as a whole must address gender stereotypes and make all people
aware of them if the industry wants to progress in the future. What people must realize is why people choose to enter this demanding industry. Women and men both have the same reason for doing so: passion. Gender does not determine how hard one can work or how determined they are to succeed. Passion does. Women should be encouraged to
2# Apples (7-8ea) 1C Cider 3/4C Sugar, granulated (Or honey/agave/maple syrup) 2 Tsp Cinnamon 1/8 Tsp Allspice I Tb Lemon juice 1 Tb vanilla 1. Peel, core, cut the apples. Add to a heavy saucepan.
photo courtesy:Taste of Home
2. Add in the cider, bring to a boil, then simmer for about 20 minutes. 3. Add in the rest of the ingredients, stir to combine. Return to a boil, and simmer for about 30 minutes, or until apples are fork tender. 4. Mash the apples, or hand mix with a robocoup until you reach your desired consistency. 5. Spread it on that sweet potato toast you just made.
Women in Food
BY: Gabriella Oneil, AOS Culinary
What comes to mind when you hear the word “chef”? For most people, it is the classic picture of a man in a clean, white chef coat and toque, leading an army of other male figures in a fast paced kitchen. For many years, male dominance has been present in professional kitchens, and the culinary industry has masked the contributions of women. Inequalities among men and women have been and still are evident, however, it is the present-day food industry that is revo-lutionizing thoughts on women in the kitchen. Today more than ever, women are becoming lead-ing forces in the industry, successful chefs, entrepreneurs, restauranteurs, and food media per-sonalities. It is evident that the modern culinary industry is changing. People now are recogniz-ing and promoting women alongside men as prominent figures. Perhaps we are in the midst of a culinary revolution, with gender gaps between men and women chefs closing significantly. This revolution however, is far from complete. Inequalities are ever-present and it is imperative to discuss and understand them, to progress in the culinary world. Throughout history, kitchens have been dominated by males, stemming from days where men in the military were trained to cook and later began cooking
professionally. Women were expected to stay home and maintain the household. The culinary industry, has been male domi-nated for years and this has led to injustices and inequality within the industry. Many women in kitchens have reported harassment, abuse, and discrimination. Toronto pastry chef June Kate Burnham, reported to The New York Times that three males chefs physically and verbally abused her. When she went public with these stories, she received hate via social media and many people overlooked her story because they had “heard it before.” This is the problem with the indus-try. People read about these injustices and chose to overlook them, thinking that the kitchen is a place for men. Too many people think that this is acceptable. When interviewing women CIA students about gender inequality, a staggering 100% of women experienced gender discrimina-tion in their workplace. One student stated, “I had an interview for a kitchen position but was then asked if I was interested in working frontof-house instead, because of my gender or ap-pearance.” Alongside discrimination, wage gaps are another major concern of women chefs. Why would a woman of equal skill to a man choose a career where she could potentially be cheated out of a salary, just be-
Chef and Alum Cat Cora. photo courtesy: ciachef.edu
follow their passions and not be predisposed to think that only men belong in stressful kitchens. One organization that is attempting to encourage the growth of women chefs is the James Beard Association. The James Beard Women in Culinary Leadership (WICL) program was created in 2012 to mentor and train aspir-ing women chefs. The WICL is shedding light on the topic of women chefs and gender imbal-ances present today. Perhaps if more men become aware of the sexism and discrimination wom-en face, they can become attentive and aim to change their attitudes and behavior. Women chefs can serve as an inspiration to all of us, overcoming physical, mental, and social challenges. Moving into the future, the industry is rapidly changing, and it is evident that kitchens are no longer just a male domain. We must look ahead to the future and show the suc-cesses of women, and as CIA instructor Chef Meli (Baking and Pastry Arts) weighs in, it is necessary to “teach the public and the industry [that] women are here to stay.”
November 11, 2016
Features
Indepth Look at ICC
BY: Daniel Salisbury, BPS Applied Food Studies
Chef Jamilka Borges, Chef de Cuisine of Spoon in Pittsburgh, PA, poses for a picture at the “Spiked” Booth presented by Bacardi at the 2016 StarChefs photo courtesy: Dan Salisbury ICC.
At the Brooklyn Expo Center from October 23-25, the 11th Annual StarChefs International Chefs Congress was extremely action-packed. Each day there were informative lectures, inspiring demos, and intense competitions all led or judged by leading industry professionals. There was no shortage of food or drink with small bites following a theme of the day, large familystyle dinners were cooked and served by some of the country’s hottest culinary stars, and plenty of liquor flowed from the bottles and shakers of talented bartenders from all over the world. It was nearly impossible to cover the entirety of the competition in its three-day lifespan. The overall theme of this year’s conference was “Progress.” We left with full bellies, open minds, and a renewed sense of faith in our industry. Johnny Spero Each day of the conference held multiple workshops covering various aspects of the industry, from panel discussions to cooking demos. Johnny Spero, current Executive Chef of the Columbia Room in Washington, D.C., led a hands-on cooking demo featuring modern techniques and plating styles. The former Executive Sous at Jose Andre’s minibar, Spero blew away the crowd with his complex dishes and beautiful plating. Chef cooked and plated three dishes: a tomato tartare with white soy and Szechuan oil, an apple-sea lettuce granita, and a salt-roasted lobe of foie. His passion for progressive cuisine came through strongly in the seventy-five minutes allotted. He took a minute to explain that sometimes his ideas failed, the tomato water in his tartare was originally supposed to be something else, but the idea of adaptability and progress was something that the he took to heart and the crowd should take home with them as well.
Eat @ ICC Walking through the crowds of excited attendees and throngs of industry leaders and celebrities, everyone was always eating or drinking something delicious or exciting. StarChefs organized various stands and stalls to be occupied by chefs and bartenders hailing from all over the country. Roughly thirty chefs were in charge of taking over a certain food stall that would be following a certain theme for that day. Sunday’s theme was “Super-Scrap.” Shane Deveraux of Monday Nights at DD from Georgia served a catfish sausage steam bun. Christin Cikowski and Josh Kulp served a Honey Butter Fried Chicken sandwich from their namesake restaurant in Chicago. Eli Kayer and Hari Cameron got inventive with a Maine scallop served with abductor muscle katsuobushi and a seaweed kombucha vinegar. The next day, a whole new rotation of chefs came in. Conference-goers sampled the “Mill Masters” of the day. Garrison Gill’s country bread was made from stone-milled flour from New Orleans, and Jake
Novick-Finder’s garlic knots were served with everything seasoning. There were other stands and stalls serving other food and drink all over the conference. Using Bacardi products, Jamilka Borges from Pittsburgh, PA, served a dish of braised and pickled lamb with a basmati rice polenta and a raisin chutney. Kenny Gilbert out of Florida stunned the crowd with a whole roasted alligator, shredding the meat by hand and serving it on a sweet bun with barbecue sauce, complete with a pickle. Evan Hennessey and Justin Hewitt from New Hampshire served their cheese themed small bite, a puffed mahon cheese cracker topped with a fermented mushroom powder, whole-grain mustard, and flavors of rye. Eating and drinking was a big part of
background of their respective companies and how they could regulate quality throughout their international brands. Swedish Chef Fredrik Borgskog took first place at the Valhrona C3 International Competition, taking home a hefty 5000 dollar paycheck and bragging rights. Tuesday held a Vitamix dumpling battle, and the theme of the day centered around alternative proteins. In all, the 11th Annual StarChefs ICC was a huge hit. Jamilka Borges Interview I spoke with the current Chef de Cuisne at Spoon in Pittsburgh, PA, Jamilka Borges. Chef Borges was recently featured in Pittsburgh Magazine as one of the female leaders in the industry, at the helm of the shift in the city.
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gressing towards equality. I was lucky enough to always work in diverse kitchens. However, occasional purveyors will still look past me as the chef and ask the sommelier or the GM about orders. DS: Do you think it’s something unique in Pittsburgh, or is there more due recognition of women throughout the U.S.? CB: I think that the small town [of Pittsburgh] allowed for a strong network of support. I eat out and hang out with fellow chefs in the city, and we’re a tight knight community. However, I do think that there’s a national shift, and that’s a good thing. DS: Was there a female chef or role model you looked up to as a
Tomato tartare with white soy and Szechuan oil, by: Chef Johnny Spero, of the Colombia Room. photo courtesy: Dan Salisbury
this food conference, and no one left for home with an empty stomach. Lectures from Eric Kayser, of Maison Kayser fame, and renowned pastry mastermind Antonio Bachour gave explained the
Dan: How do you feel about the recent press on women chefs in Pittsburgh, and the country as a whole? Chef Borges: It’s slowly pro-
child?
CB: I was always a big fan of [Puerto Rican celebrity chef] Giovanna Huyke. I actually met her here today, and that was pretty amazing! Growing up, being a chef was never considered a profession, it was considered “help” in the kitchen. My mom would always feed people: friends, family, and even strangers, and that was the culture I grew up with. DS: In the interview with Hal Klein in Pittsburgh Magazine, you mentioned growing up in Puerto Rico and the challenged you faced with cultural stereotypes with women cooking and providing for the family. What would you say to girls and women who are facing that just starting out, or thinking of going to culinary school? CB: It’s not easy! Believe in yourself, and don’t get caught in the drama. Be yourself, and be the bigger person. Don’t play roles. Present yourself in a strong manner, and be assertive!
Chef Johnny Spero, Exec Chef of the Colombia Room in D.C., demonstrating the effects of liquid nitrogen for the plating process, at the 2016 StarChefs ICC. photo courtesy: Dan Salisbury
DS: Thank you for taking the time today Chef, and for all that you are doing for the industry.
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November 11, 2016
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Graduation
AOS Graduating Class of November 11, 2016 Culinary Arts Group #1 Front Row: Nathaniel Wandell, Priyam Chirawawala, Jacob Funaro Back Row: Brandon Ralph, Alexander Santiago, Thea Leallis, Alexis Gamarra, Achrey Harris
Baking & Pastry Group Front Row: Melanie Williams, Avril Martinez, Manuel Rosario, Maria Christodouloo Back Row: Joeseph Pellegrino, Jamie Dofresne, Taylor Scarpon, Sophie Obach, Alex Ye, Natash Belless
Culinary Arts Group #2 Front Row: Ryan Devine, George Thomas, Christopher Ginchi, Elexis Hall, Younguun Ju, Alexander Torres, Jeremy Anthony
Novemebr 11, 2016
Graduation
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AOS Graduation Speaker: Chip Smith ‘93 Executive Chef and Co-Owner of The Simone
BY: Shelly Loveland, Staff Contributor
photo couresy of Leslie Jennings
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Chip Smith is the executive chef and co-owner of The Simone, a fine dining French restaurant in New York City. A 1993 graduate of The Culinary Institute of America in Hyde Park, NY, Chip took his CIA externship with Larry Forgione ’77 at An American Place in New York. Chef Smith joined the American Place team after graduation, developing his passion for local and regional cuisine. From there, he had the great fortune of working with JeanLouis Palladin, a force in French cuisine, at The Watergate Hotel in Washington, DC. Chef Smith’s next adventure was working at The Inn at Little Washington in the beautiful mountains of Virginia. It was there that he was instilled with an eye for details, thanks to the tutelage of Chef Patrick O’Connell. Chef Smith opened his first restaurant, Carolina Blue, in Kitty Hawk, NC. He owned and operated Carolina Blue for six years before moving inland to Chapel Hill and opening Bonne Soirée in 2006 with his wife, wine expert Tina Vaughn. The tiny, elegant, and intimate res-
taurant brought fine dining to the area a little ahead of its time and was a great success. Just months after the launch of Bonne Soirée, the News & Observer named it the best restaurant in North Carolina’s “Triangle” of Raleigh, Durham, and Chapel Hill. In addition, Chef Smith was named one of the top 10 chefs who work behind the stove every night in Bon Appétit magazine’s Restaurant Issue, and was nominated for the James Beard Foundation’s Best Chef, Southeast award in 2008, 2009, and 2011. After closing Bonne Soirée, Chef Smith returned to New York, hoping for a job with one of the great chefs who grace the city. Instead, he has had the luxury of being a partner in his own tiny “home,” The Simone. Co-owned with his wife and with his business partner, Robert Margolis, this newest restaurant
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opened three years ago on the ground level of a historic townhouse on the Upper East Side. With only 34 seats, The Simone brings fine and elegant countryside French cuisine to the many guests who have discovered and support Chef Smith’s craft. The recognition that quickly followed for The Simone is a testament to Chef Smith’s focus and spirit as a working chef. The New York Times bestowed a three-star review and named The Simone one of its Top 10 New Restaurants. New York magazine named it one of the Top Food Destinations for 2015, the London Financial Times called it “An American Beauty,” and Forbes declared it a destination restaurant. A proud CIA alumnus, Chef Smith hopes to one day return to his alma mater as an instructor.
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Sports
Steels Seasons Sliced Short
BY: Nick McManus, AOS Culinary
A member of the CIA Steels soccer team drives the ball past a defender enroute to the goal.
It’s time to say good bye to our fall sports here at the CIA. The cross country, soccer, and volleyball teams all had progressive seasons. 6 athletes earned All-Conference honors in
the Hudson Valley Intercollegiate Athletic Conference (HVIAC) during this season. Both the men and women’s cross country were recognized within the HVIAC. From Flagstaff, Arizona Fiona
photo courtesy: CIAChef.edu
Nicholson was a selected for the women’s All-Conference team. Alex Lenik from Chicago was also recognized on the men’s team. We wish them and all the cross country members luck in
the next coming season. Freshman Romani Bindi from Milan, Italy obtained an All-Conference selection for the men’s soccer team. Brent Goodbrake who hails from Tuscaloosa, Alabama was awarded back to back All-Conference selections and Goodbrake came away with nine goals and seven assists. Two of those goals were game winners which helped give way to an even 4-4 record in conference play. According to Freshman Defenseman Siddarth Shetty, the team was able to come together towards the end of the season to play as one cohesive unit, despite the 5-9 (overall) record. “It’s not all about stocks and doughs here at the CIA,” he said. Last but not least; our volleyball team finished the year off with impressive feats that can be used to build off next year. With almost half the team returning from a positive season last year, the 4-2 start to this season was a sure start to another favorable year. While ending up with a win-
ning record of 7-6 (overall), the Steels were able to buff out a 2-2 record within the conference. To add to the positive year, the team has two players recognized by the HVIAC. Senior Trisha Tran from Germantown, Maryland who had 164 assists was given a spot on the All-Conference team. Along with her team mate Trish, Megan Reed was recognized by the conference for her 102 kills. As we reflect not on just the games but the people who made these games happen. From the coaches and the players or the faculty and students who helped clean up the gym or field, these are the people in your kitchen. These are the people who make your pancakes and compote in the morning. They make that amazing Apple Pie coffee. These are the individuals we will all be sharing the industry we know and respect. Love them. Support them. We are CIA.