Volume 38, No. 4
April 12, 2017
La
Papillote
“New” Nordic Cuisine
BY: Ethan Reynolds, AOS Culinary
The cuisines of the Nordic nations are as diverse as they are vibrantly beautiful. From sweeping fjords to smattered lakes, from the volcanoes and glaciers of Iceland to the forests of Jämtland, each country contains wide swathes of disparate landscapes. These geographical factors determine what can grow in a region, and therefore determine what is available for its denizens to eat. By looking at the dishes most commonly eaten by members of a culture, we can shed some light on the cuisine of that region. Dishes such as surstromming, braised pilot whale, and taco quiche are integral parts of specific sections of the Nordic society, and understanding these elements of cuisine can help us to better understand the culture of each respective group. Swedish cuisine is championed by such elements as deeply flavored root vegetables, warming braises, crisp flatbreads, sweet spices in savory applications, pickles of every kind (especially pickled fish), foraged herbs and berries, and countless forms of dairy,
to name a few. When commercial packets of taco seasoning were introduced to Sweden in the 80’s, Swedes used them in a style that fit their cuisine; thus was born the taco quiche, or tacopaj. Essentially, tacopaj is a taco-flavored mincemeat pie (made from beef or moose), covered in a gooey, delicious mixture of cheese, eggs, storebought mayonnaise (fresh mayonnaise will break if used because it needs the additive stabilizers found in jarred mayo to withstand the heat of the oven), and a hefty dollop of crème fraîche. The quiche is baked in a wheat-flour pastry crust and served hot. In an interview with food writer Melissa Clark, Fäviken chef Magnus Nilsson discusses the taco quiche’s relevance in Swedish culture. “It’s a totally unique, Swedish dish,” he states. Dishes such as sour herring are more readily associated with Swedish cuisine, but in reality such dishes are not eaten as much as common comfort food such as the lesser-known tacopaj. Though both sour herring and tacopaj are native to Sweden, is it realistic to attribute gastronomic importance to a traditional dish but not a modern one? “So, then you
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A Talk with Harney & Sons Tea Co.
BY: Francesca Zani, AOS Culinary
photo courtesy: www.harney.com
It started with the innkeeper of White Hart Inn, in Salisbury, Connecticut. This man, named John Harney, was introduced to the tea business by Stanly Mason. Mason was a tea merchant who sold tea from a company named Sarum Tea near the property of the Inn.
Sexual Assault Awareness Month
BY: Sean Morrill, BBA Food Business Management
The Month of April is Sexual Assault Awareness month. The Culinary Institute of America has many programs and events on campus which reinforce the campus-wide theme of Embrace S.A.F.E - Sexual Assault Free Environments. A list of the programs can be found on the Main Menu webste, and includes Late Night Breakfast, S.A.A.M Film Festival, Silent Auction, and more. The month culminates in an Embrace Safe walk, kicking off on April 28 at 5:15pm on Anton Plaza. In April across the nation, we look to educate everybody, especially college students, about sexual assault. According to the National Sexual Violence Resource Center (NSVRC), one in 5 women and
one in 16 men are sexually assaulted while in college, and more than 90 percent of sexual assault victims on college campuses do not report the assault. The aim of Sexual Assault Awareness Month is to educate. The education is two sided; while teaching both women and men how to protect themselves in the event that they are the victim of an attempted assault,(and how to report it), another goal is to educate both men and women about consent in order to prevent assault in the first place. Contrary to popular belief, most sexual assaults and rape are not random. According to the NSVRC, in eight out of ten cases of rape, the victim knew the person who sexually assaulted them. To learn more about consent, you can go to the Consent to
“From the Editor’s Desk”
“Campus” Diversity Day at the CIA
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Tea Party on April 20th at 9 pm in Renaissance lounge, but I’ll cover the basics here. Consent means that both (or more than two) adults are sober and one hundred percent willing to engage in sexual activity. Sexual activity does not have to be penetrative sex. Sexual activity can refer to groping, fingering, oral, anal, and vaginal sex. All of these activities require consent from each person. When making a decision on whether or not somebody is sober enough to consent, it really boils down to having good sense. After a drink or two, most people are in good spirits, and still making sound judgments. The minute somebody shows signs of intoxication, they’re no longer able to consent. In a perfect world, ev-
Harney was inspired by the tea business after seeing his guest’s reactions when drinking Mason’s Sarum tea. In 1960, Harney took over the Sarum Tea company until he sold it almost a decade and a half later. This was the beginning of what would beocme Harney &
erybody would understand consent and nobody would have to protect themselves from another person. However, this is not the case. If you’re walking alone and it feels like somebody is following you, or you feel uncomfortable, you can pretend to be on the phone or actually call somebody. Somebody who might be looking to hurt you is far less likely to if they think somebody else may hear or see them. Like I said before, most assaults are perpetrated by somebody that the victim knows, so chances are they’re not looming behind you. Always walk with a group or a close friend at night, and ensure you both get back to your dorm safely. If you’re feeling uncomfortable with somebody you know, do your best to get out of
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Sons Tea. The tea company’s first established location is in Millerton, New York, just over the border of Connecticut. They also have a location in SoHo, New York City. In 2005, John Harney won Food Artisan of the Year by Bon Appetite Magazine. Almost three years after his death in 2014, Harney’s sons and grandchildren continue to run the highly-acclaimed tea enterprise, selling tea in all seven continents of the world. “I was the night audit,” Michael Harney recounted in an interview at the shop in Millerton. Under his father’s guidance, he worked at the inn throughout his grade school years. A Cornell graduate fascinated by wine, Harney later flew off the Paris to further explore the wine industry. While working and learning about wine and spirits, he also staged for Cognac, and then found his way back to tea. “If you buy the correct tea, it’s an organizing principle for me in my business,” Harney explained. To be able to sell tea all over the world, the Harney sons travel to Japan, China, Shrilanka, India,
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the situation. If you can’t, one tip is be as loud as you can in order to alert passerby. Unfortunately, not all sexual assaults are stopped before they happen. But, you can report them. On campus, there are trained professionals ready to listen. Counseling and Psychological Services is available in the student affairs wing in the student resource center and are confidential. Our Title IX Coordinator is Joseph Morano, and can be reached in Roth S324. If you are a victim of sexual assault while on campus, talk to somebody you trust; a chef, a professor, or a counselor can help connect you with somebody who can help.
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“Graduation”
“Graduation” Bachelor’s Graduation
LA PAPILLOTE
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Editorial
Papillote
THE NEWSPAPER OF THE CULINARY INSTITUTE OF AMERICA SINCE 1979
En
Aprill 12, 2017
PUBLISHER The Student Affairs Division EDITOR-IN-CHIEF Dan Salisbury LAYOUT EDITOR Alexis Brown ADVERTISING MANAGER Sue Haug CONTRIBUTORS Matt Ivins Francesca Zani Deja Burrows Ethan Reynolds Cindy Yuong
Leslie Jennings Shelly Loveland Sean Morrill Christian Duncan
COMPACT
La Papillote, the Newspaper of the Culinary Institute of America since 1979, is dedicated to respecting the mission, history and values of the college. Our primary purpose is to report the news of the institution to the students and other members of the campus community. We examine contemporary issues of the food service and hospitality industries to inform, challenge and develop the minds of students as they aspire to leadership roles in their chosen profession. We reflect the diverse views of the student body and provide a forum for civil discussion. Above all else, in our reporting and features, we strive to be accurate, fair, unbiased and free from distortion. Whenever we portray someone in a negative light or accuse a party of wrongdoing, we will make a real effort to obtain and print a response from that subject in the same issue. We will not plagiarize. Articles and features are expected to be independent assessments on a topic by an individual author. The views expressed are those of the author’s alone. They do not necessarily represent the views or opinions of La Papillote or its staff, nor do they represent the views or opinions of The Culinary Institute of America, or any entity of, or affiliated with the college.
FOOD REVIEW POLICY
As a valuable part of our content, La Papillote offers restaurant reviews. It is in the best interest of our readership to be honest, accurate and fair in providing information and judgment on these establishments. Reviews will reflect the writer’s opinions about the menu, atmosphere and service. Whenever possible, reviews will be conducted with complete anonymity. Permission from the restaurants will not be secured prior. All issues of La Papillote are available online, therefore, the critiqued restaurants, along with the public, can view editions at anytime on the web.
From the Editor’s Desk April 12, 2017
Dear Fellow Students,
Warmer weather is approaching the Hudson Valley, which means the start of farmer’s markets, fresh produce, and for some, spring break! I’m excited to visit my family back home in Pittsburgh, travel to Peru for the Cuisines and Cultures trip, and visit a few old friends in Boston. While I’m in Peru, I hope to learn as much as I can about the diverse and varied cuisines there that have recently been taking the world by storm; I’m quite excited to open up my mind and palate to new combinations of tastes and flavors that I haven’t experienced before. Related to this idea, the article written on Nordic foods shows that cuisine is often widely misunderstood. By examining foods that play a significant role in the cuisines of certain cultures of the world, perhaps we can learn a bit more about these diverse and relatively underappreciated cultures. Harney and Sons Tea is a great addition to our restaurants on campus, and a wonderful interview with John Harney in this issue gives some context to the face behind the company. I’m not just plugging an ad in here – their tea is sourced with care, and is really good! I definitely suggest checking out their shop in Millerton, about 45 minutes away. You may have noticed student workers wearing new T-shirts this month. April is Sexual Assault Awareness Month, and the CIA is working hard to show awareness by hosting various events throughout the month. Hosted by SGA, Diversity Day took place during the first week of April, and there was an amazing turnout. It’s great to see the wonderful CIA community come out and show support and raise awareness of such an important topic. Lastly, the CIA Tennis team is doing very well this season, so make sure to continue to show your support and cheer on the Steels! Thank you, Dan Salisbury
EDITORIAL POLICY
La Papillote welcomes submissions of work from students, chefs and outside professionals. The decision to print is based on the following criteria: quality of content, value of content to our readers, quality of writing, originality, objectivity, layout, and verifiability. Besides the Editor, there are two Copy Editors who read over submitted articles. Major changes will be reported to writers before the issue goes out. However, any other changes that need to be edited close to the deadline may or may not be forwarded to writers. This is due to the fact of lack of time. It is asked for writers to trust the Editor’s decision at this point during layout. Please direct all submissions to: Kevin Markey, Editor-In-Chief at lapapillote.culinary@gmail.com.
LETTERS POLICY
Letters to the Editor may not exceed 250 words and they should be exclusive to La Papillote. In selecting letters, the editors try to present a balance of views. We reserve the right to edit for space, clarity, civility and accuracy, and will send you the edited version before publication. If your letter is selected, we will try to reach you in necessary cases to verify the letter’s authenticity, to clarify your motivation, to clarify your relation to the subject for our readers or to verify facts or sources. Letters to the Editor may be sent to lapapillote.culinary@gmail.com with “Letter to the Editor - For Publication” in the subject line. Please include your phone number.
NOTICE OF NON-DISCRIMINATION
Dan Salisbury Editor-in-Chief
Alexis Brown Layout Editor
Alison Sprong Copy Editor
Joe Piccirillo Social Media Editor
Cindy Yuong Digital Content Editor
Liz Lucinese Jr. Copy Editor
The Culinary Institute of America (CIA) is an Equal Opportunity Employer committed to the principle of equal opportunity in education and employment. The CIA does not discriminate against individuals on the basis of race, color, sex, sexual orientation, gender identity, religion, disability, age, genetic information, marital status, veteran status, ancestry, national or ethnic origin, or any other protected group or classification under federal or state laws. The following persons have been designated to handle inquiries regarding the non-discrimination policies: Civil Rights Compliance Officers Joe Morano HR Director-Faculty Relations
Maura A. King Director-Compliance
Title IX and Age Discrimination
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Office: Roth Hall Room S324
Office: Roth Hall Room S351
Telephone: 845-451-1314
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April 12, 2017
Hot Streak for Tennis Team
BY: Matt Ivins, CIA Staff
Hyde Park, NY—With an eye towards the postseason, the Steels Tennis team has been in quite impressive form. Starting on March 20th, the Steels traveled to SUNY Delhi for a non-conference match against a tough NAIA member opponent. The Steels then traveled to the Billie Jean King National Tennis Center in Queens on March 26th to take on HVIAC rivals Vaughn College. Most recently, the Steels were in action on the road against Webb Institute. Ola Boulos was awarded HVIAC Rookie of the Week Honors for her impressive 2-0 performance at the No.6 singles spot against both SUNY Delhi and Vaughn College. James Buquet IV won HVIAC honors after a come-from-behind victory
to reach a 2-0 record at the No. 5 singles spot for the week. Nicolass Shutterop took home HVIAC Rookie of the Week for his 10-2 victory at the No. 5 singles position against Webb Institute. “It has been great to see the team performing at such a high level, building off the success of winning the conference championship last year, with a very young group. This is a credit to the strong, experienced leadership of Captain Jeremy Sawyer, and the volunteer coaches Dennis Anderson, and Denise Mazzi. It was great to see our team not only compete, but defeat, a really strong non-conference opponent like SUNY Delhi,” said Steels Athletic Director, Serge Nalywayko.
Campus
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CIA Hosts Diversity Day
BY: Deja Burrows, BBA Food Business Management
photo courtesy: CIA Student Government Association photo courtesy: Serge Nalywayko
3-20 vs. SUNY Delhi Doubles 1. Van/Hamilton DEF Sawyer/ Juarez 8-6 SUNY Delhi 2. Cordell/Schutterop DEF Broniman/Tanabe 8-4 CIA 3. Angiola/O’Halloran DEF Hampton/Ivans 8-3 SUNY Delhi 3-20 vs. SUNY Delhi Singles 1. Jeremy Sawyer DEF Lac Van 7-5,6-1 CIA 2. Daniel Juarez DEF Shaquille Hamilton 6-0, 6-1 CIA 3. Gabriela Berrios DEF Tony Angiola 3-6, 6-1, 6-1 CIA 4. Brock Broniman DEF Thomas Wu 2-6, 2-6 SUNY Delhi 5. James Buquet DEF Masaya Tanabe 2-6, 7-6, 6-3 CIA 6. Ola Boulos DEF Joe O’Halloran 6-2, 6-3 CIA DEF SUNY Delhi 6-3 3-26 vs. Vaughn College Doubles 1. Sawyer/Juarez DEF Oladeji/Thioune 8-0 CIA 2. Rite/Schutterop DEF Panico/Cordina 8-2 CIA 3. Hampton/Berrios DEF Williams/Valencia 8-1 CIA 3-26 vs. Vaughn College Singles 1. Jeremey Sawyer DEF Tobi Oladeji 10-1 CIA 2. Daniel Juarez DEF Michael Panico 10-2 CIA 3. Gabriela Berrios DEF Raphael Cordina 10-6 CIA 4. Travis Zissu DEF Osumane Thioune 10-0 CIA 5. James Buquet DEF Obrian Williams 10-1 CIA 6. Ola Boulos DEF Sebastian Valencia 10-0 CIA CIA DEF Vaughn College 9-0 4-1 vs Webb Institute Doubles 1. Putnam/Sawyer DEF Ng/Lee 8-2 CIA 2. Juarez/Wu DEF Vogeler/Jones 8-0 CIA 3. Hampton/Ivans DEF Hill/Roske 8-1 CIA 4-1 vs Webb Institute Singles 1. Duane Lee DEF Nat Putnam 7-10 Webb 2. James Buquet DEF Galen Ng 10-2 CIA 3. Justin Rite DEF John Hale 10-3 CIA 4. Alex Cordell DEF Kevin Prichard 10-7 CIA 5. Nicolass Schutterop DEF Seth Jones 10-2 CIA 6. Ola Boulos DEF Taylor Campbell 10-1 CIA CIA DEF Webb Institute 8-1
Earlier this year the Culinary Institute of America released a statement of diversity encouraging our student body to feel comfortable and supported in being who they are. Many members of our student body took note of this statement and were proud to go to a school that took the time to publicly announce this. The Student Government Association began formulating a way to put this statement into action; they formulated a plan not simply just to say that they were in support by hosting a schoolwide diversity day. After conferring with members of the faculty and staff, it was decided that a pledge would be created and a buffet of world foods would be served. On April 5th, the first Diversity Day was held. Members of the SGA were stationed at the Egg from 10 AM to 7:30 PM with pledges for students and faculty to sign. The pledge itself included five main points that highlighted the rights of both individuals and groups, respect for beliefs and opinions,
and taking pride in diversity. It was reported that the response was overwhelming and that more than 500 people pledged to support for diversity. Buttons were given to the first 250 people to sign, and they could wear them with their uniforms to class. When planning the buffet portion of the Diversity Day, the SGA approached several other student run clubs to participate in the preparation and serving of the food. Three clubs were present and accounted for: the Masala Club, Black Culinary Society and the Latin American Club. They each gave out sample size portions of dishes at the Innovation station. The Masala club served panipuri, an east Indian street food made of potatoes and chickpeas, as well as chicken tikki masala with kachumber salad. The Black Culinary Society prepared portions of fried chicken, cornbread with honey, collard greens and dirty rice with beans. The Latin American club served alajores, a South American confection, and esquites , Mexican street
corn. To wash it all down, the Culinary Science club served up their famous clear cherry punch with suspended vanilla drops. The buffet was well supported and they sold served all of the samples within the first hour of opening. Members of the SGA were grateful for the help and support of the management at the egg who graciously allowed them to use their facilities. Now that the event has passed, the SGA is looking for ways to display all the pledges that were signed. A faculty member came up with the most liked idea of lying the papers out on the gymnasium floor and taking aerial view photos. They feel that this would be a good representation of how many people in the CIA community support diversity. This photo can be seen along with other events from that day soon the SGAs Instagram page: cia_sga. SGA hopes that this will not be the only event of its kind. They would like to make this an annual event, and bigger and better in the years to come.
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Features
Nordic Cuisine cont’d
can pose the question, ‘What is actually the most Swedish dish?’” A sibling to such stinky delicacies as lutefisk and hákarl, surströmming is a decisively unique product. It starts with Baltic herring, caught in the spring when they are at their most scrumptious, which are then packed into ancient barrels and covered with salt to lactoferment. The fish are canned several months later, and then further fermented and matured in the can for a year or more. The result is a protuberant, pressurized canister of noxiously delicious flavors; as Chef Magnus once called it, “a time bomb of olfactory destruction.” The smell indeed is what garners surströmming its worldwide reputation. Legends have been told that a can was once dropped and broken in a grocery store, and the entire store had to be evacuated due to the intense pungency that ensued. It is illegal to ship by air from Sweden to America, because the pressure buildup is an explosion hazard. Countless videos on YouTube showcase the herring’s prodigious stench; most of them end in vomiting, or crying, or both. In northern Sweden, however, it is received with joy and eaten on a flatbread with potatoes, onions and gräddfil (which is similar to sour cream, but less fatty). Alternatively, it can be baked into a casserole with some dairy and eggs to enhance the flavor. Either way, it is best washed down with aquavit or hoppy lager. The Faroe Islands are an archipelago located just north of the UK, in between Norway
and Iceland. They were reached by traveling Vikings in the 9th and 10th century, some of whom stayed and built a civilization. This civilization remains to this day relatively unaffected by the modernization that has taken over in most of the world. In the Faroe Islands, there is a tradition known as the grindadráp. From time to time, herds of pilot whales will be sighted off the coast. When this happens, the Faeroese will gather together, lure the whales close to shore and catch them by hand. The meat is then freely distributed throughout the community, upholding an ages-old tradition that makes life sustainable on the mountainous, unfarmable islands. Such dishes as Kókað fesk grind (boiled pilot whale with blubber and potatoes) or Grindabúffur (braised pilot whale) are deeply ingrained within the cuisine of the Faeroese people, and even can be considered defining elements of their vibrant, traditional culture. However, if one were to Google the grindadráp, a series of negative, even demonizing, articles are thrust forth regarding this hunting tradition. Such headlines as “bloody”, “shocking truth” and “pilot whale massacre” are the most prevalent. Why is this so? Pilot whales are nowhere close to endangerment, and they are hunted using one of the most sustainable fishing methods in existence – manually, without even a hook or line. Yet perhaps this very method of hunting is the trigger that causes people to respond negatively to the grindadráp. Pictures and videos of the hunt may make most queasy; the hunters eutha-
nize each individual whale in a humane, instant way by piercing their spinal column with a special lance. It was hard for me to view these images, and I can imagine that they would perturb most. In response to the grindadráp itself, but likely also to the negative media attention as well, humane societies have called for a halt. Yet this prospect would greatly impact the Faeroese people; being such an isolated, not to mention nearly uncultivable nation, they rely on the meat and blubber of the pilot whales to survive from year to year without having to pay the inordinate taxes and fees to receive food from outside their borders. In essence, they are striving to eat local. So is it right to request a people to halt a centuries-old tradition that is necessary for their
Harney & Sons cont’d
and few other countries to source the highest quality product at least once per year. There are six considerable types of tea which include white, green, oolong, black, herbal, and flavored. White tea is what it may seem; it is very light in consistency with sweet notes. Oolong is between earthy
green tea and tannic full bodied black teas. Harney & Sons source their black and green tea from China, the country known for the origins of tea growth and harvesting. The company’s two most popular black teas are Hot Cinnamon Spice as the top seller and Paris as the second best. Harney
photo courtesy: Ethan Reynolds
survival, the reason being that said tradition makes people thousands of miles away uncomfortable? This ethical dilemma brings to mind a similar issue, that of the almadraba (the annual Spanish tradition of catching endangered bluefin tuna off the Strait of Gibraltar). Even in this circumstance, where the animal being hunted is veritably endangered, the water is murky; the town was built around and economically reliant on the tuna. The almadraba is a major culturally defining factor to the people of Andalucia, just as the grindadráp is such an enormous part of Faeroese culture; to take it away would be like telling Americans that they can’t have turkey at Thanksgiving. To classify Nordic food as a single cuisine is like trying to say that America has only one
cuisine; it’s impossible to ignore the drastic difference between the fresh, light vegetable- and grainforward cuisines of California and the heavily spiced, hearty Cajun cuisine of New Orleans. Likewise, the Nordic countries (Finland, Sweden, Denmark, Norway, Iceland, Greenland and the Faroe Islands) have many different cuisines and subcuisines, largely affected by the geographical placement and climate of each area. This national diversity makes for a truly wonderful multichotomy of similar and contrasting cultural elements. When viewed through the lens of culinary application, it becomes clear: the possibilities are unending.
Bengal, India, is a smaller tea leaf that can produce black, green, oolong, and white teas. Herbal teas are considered tisanes which is simply herbs steeped in hot water. Japanese Matcha powder is a variant of tea that uses a different method of preparation. At Harney & Sons you get to sit at the tea bar watching the baristas steep all varieties of tea making sure to use the right temperature water and timers to keep track of how long to steep the loose tea leaves. The experience is similar to sitting at a bar watching cocktails being shaken, stirred,
and poured.To make Matcha tea, one must use a bowl, spoon, and whisk. After hot liquid is added to the vibrant powder it becomes very pasty and thick until enough water is added for it to be drinkable. They import Lavender from France and Rooibos from Africa to use for their tisanes. The exciting aspect about tea is that it may be enjoyed anytime of the day as a hot or cold beverage, offering nothing but promising health benefit. Having a small tea party with your friends over Harney & Sons tea is a great way to “tea” off the afternoon.
photo courtesy: www.harney.com
mentioned that people like Paris tea because “it’s comprised of fruity, vanilla notes with a bit of tartness from the bergamot, leaving a well- rounded flavor.” Other types of black tea Harney & Sons sell come from Assam, India, the tea being named after the state itself. The Darjeeling tea, found in
photo courtesy: Francesca Zani
April 12, 2017
Features
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Matcha Madness: The Rise of East Asian Bakeries
BY: Cindy Yuong, AOS Baking & Pastry
Molten Choclate Matcha cake from Spot Dessert Bar.
American and French bakeries are ubiquitous around America, but what about the occasional Asian bakery and its host of glorious baked goods? American bakeries hold classics, comfortable sweet flavors the tongue knows. Patisseries and boulangeries are more varying in their flavors and products, always coming out with new combinations and contemporary products to catch the mind’s eye. Most people know and go to these for their sweet treats, but Asian bakeries are gaining popularity as the world is hunting for new flavors to please the palate. The most prevalent Asian bakeries seen around are traditional Chinese bakeries, found in most Chinatowns. Some others include the more modern and French-influenced Korean and Japanese bakeries appealing to the younger generation. Most of the Asian bakeries are from East Asia, which is how we refer to it here in the United States, but in Asia, these bakeries are referred to as Western bakeries. A major category of Chinese baking is Hong Kong-style. Hong Kong
is a nation that was colonized by Great Britain for an extended length of time, allowing for Western influence to spread far. East Asian bakery offerings are considered Western as they were altered since the original baked goods did not fit into the Asian taste preference: light and not too sweet. Many Asians, especially amongst the elderly, are extremely critical of American desserts for being way too sweet, dense, and rich. “Not too sweet,” is a key phrase, so hearing it from a family party is a sign of sweet approval to the desserts presented. Dessert is not a course that is quite as emphasized in most Asian cultures as it is in American or French, but it still takes a place in their diet more as a snack or treat. Crisp, French baguettes turned into soft bread buns, dense, rich cakes became light and fluffy sponge cakes, buttercream turned to whipped cream, and pastries flaked and lightened up, diversifying in ways that became classic to their culture. Sugar is cut, butter reduced, and eggs are whipped for their airy
Graduation Poems
BY: Christan Duncan, BBA Food Business Management
The Time That Took it’s Time
There’s a certain joy to be had When you thing about the stage good memories flood in even the bad you think about the people, the family you made
The clubs I joined in AOS that I’ve grown in up til now The tables turned in BPS I look at my members and think wow Because I was just there yesterday but time flew by quick and how
The first day in the kitchen Egg day and Consome The time I was praised for golden chicken the countless tournees
All in all a great college experience, True words I mean to say Thanks for skill to run the distance Thank you, my home, My CIA
discourse, also making the goods a little healthier. Most Chinese bakeries offer a variety of sweet and savory baked or steamed bread buns made from two distinct doughs varying in fillings and toppings, the most ubiquitous of which is the Pineapple Bun, a bun topped with a sweet cookie topping that does not include anything of its namesake other than appearance. Pastry cases can be found with sponge cakes decorated with whipped cream and fresh fruit. Egg tarts are a classic, and well as seasonal moon cakes, fried sesame balls, almond cookies, roll cakes, and countless other treats. Besides the baked goods, unique flavors and ingredients are mainly found in these East Asian bakeries. Flavors that are recently becoming more popular are matcha green tea, yuzu Japanese citrus, taro root, ube purple sweet potato, and adzuki-sweetened red bean. Matcha has hit the spotlight more than any other ingredient. What was once exclusively found in Asian bakeries is now a trending flavor in almost any up and coming bakery, café, or dessert
menu. There are so many others out there. People are searching for new flavors to love and Asia has a grand array of them. Pandan is often referred to as the the vanilla of South East Asian countries. Black sesame is often combined with sugar to bring out the rich, nutty flavor while lychee is a little more common and refreshingly sweet. Sudachi, the cousin of yuzu, is a Japanese lime. Salted Egg Yolk is a Chinese classic used in both sweet and savory applications. Durian, the King of Asian fruit, is a pungent, acquired taste, but extremely creamy and a delicacy to many. Sakura, currently only in Japan, features the delicate cherry blossom of spring time, and much, much more. These are only some of the main flavors. Ingredients used in making desserts of these flavors are also unique. Teas, glutinous sticky rice, mocha flour, tapioca starch, coconut milk, grass jelly, basil seeds, agar, misugaru, palm sugar, kinako, and lotus seed paste are just a few. Even some fruits are unknown; persimmons, kum-
photo courtesy: Cindy Yuong
quats, rambutan, mangosteen, jackfruit, soursop, and some more common ones like star fruit, passion fruit, pomelo, and sometimes mango are rarely used in America. Most dairy includes sweetened condensed milk - prized for its rich, creamy, and caramelly sweet flavor - and is one of the main components of classic Asian drinks such as Vietnamese coffee, Thai tea, and Hong Kong milk tea. People don’t know many Asian ingredients, often dismissing them as exotic and weird, but if you give them a chance, it can open the door to a new world of flavors and experiences. Asian bakeries are taking flavors from America and other cultures, modernizing classics such as Tiramisu, Black Forest cake, and more, but they have kept so much hidden from their own cultures that is so unknown to the rest of the world. The next time you see something new, take a step forward and give it a taste, or ask for a sample if possible. The field of Asian desserts is already growing, who knows if you might find the next new breakthrough flavor?
Adulting 101 a haiku For a while I was dreading moving on to this step in my life Now that it is here I couldn’t be more ready Running with my diploma Ready to adult
photo courtesy: www.ciachef.edu
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LA PAPILLOTE
Graduation
AOS Graduating Class of April 13, 2017 Culinary Arts Group #1
Front Row: Douy Lee, Valerie Barger, Kristina Doan, Heejae Seo Back Row : John C Eisele, Eric Savcy, Yilin Jiao, Leonidas Schultz, Jaime Perez, Chastity Dean, Matthew DeCarlo
Culinary Arts Group #2
Front Row: PoYi Wu, Laura Alpern, Elizabeth Price, Julian Sisofo, Gustavo Soto Ramirez, Antonio Carballo Back Row: Emily Duarte, Richard Freeman, Jake DAvenport, Jee Soo Choi, Matthew Stocker, Yyungsu Min, Nicholas Salas
Culinary Arts Group #3
Front Row: Victoria Testa, Brittney Hellman, Katherine Posert, Jesse Messoso, Mary Jane Flanago, Sarika Mehta, Dornpim Phorntaveuwat, R.J. Sansotta Back Row: Jeremy Perschy, Julianne Papa, Ivy Key, Louis Santigo, Christian K. Wetzel, Kent Pilosa, Antonio Pinette, Scarlet Cain, Arianne Bulus, Haleigh Angelone
Baking & Pastry Arts
Front Row: Barbara Di Paterio, Gabrielle Clinton, Rebecca Gonzales, Michaela Carnevale, Zasha Gazder, Marissa Martino, Jordan Thomas, Ruth Ecozory, Cindy Yuong, Melanie Montalvo Back Row: Taylor Bischof, Dan Walker, Jacquelyn Gasta, Emily Heitzman, Courtney Williams, Christine Edwards, Quinn Webber, Alejndro Mora, Gabrielle Hazelton, Robert Anderson
April 12, 2017
Graduation
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AOS Graduation Speaker: Michael White BY: Shelly Loveland, Staff Contributor
Chef/Owner of Altamarea Group Michael White is chef and owner of the Altamarea Group, a New York City-based restaurant group that includes 15 restaurants and spans four countries. Although Chef White’s soulful, flavorful interpretations of Italian cuisine indicate otherwise, he is a Midwesterner who spent his childhood in Beloit, WI. By whim or intuition, Michael decided to study culinary arts at Kendall College, after which he secured a position at Spiaggia in Chicago. He then studied in Italy for seven years at the acclaimed San Domenico in Imola before returning to the United States. In 2007, Ahmass Fakahany, the former chief operating officer and co-president of Merrill Lynch, partnered with Chef White to open Due Terre and Due Mari restaurants, both in New Jersey. A year later, they officially formed the Altamarea Group to open Marea on Central Park
South in New York City. Marea garnered three stars from The New York Times, and now holds two Michelin stars. The restaurant also received the 2010 James Beard Foundation Award for Best New Restaurant and was named the number-one Italian restaurant in New York City by the Zagat Survey from 2012–2015. Following on the heels of those first successes, the Group next opened the highly acclaimed Osteria Morini in downtown Manhattan and then Ai Fiori in Midtown, which received three stars from The New York Times, one Michelin star, and a Best New Restaurant nod from Esquire. In 2011, Chef White and the Altamarea Group opened Al Molo in Hong Kong, and the following year, Nicoletta Pizzeria in New York City’s East Village. The Chop Shop in London; Ristorante Morini in Istanbul; Osteria Morini in Washington, DC; and Ristorante Morini in New
photo courtesy: Leslie Jennings
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York City followed in 2013. In fall 2014, the Altamarea Group took over the food and beverage operations at the Bedford Post Inn, a Relais & Châteaux property in Westchester County owned by Richard Gere and Russell Hernandez. In 2015, it opened a second outpost of Nicoletta in Bernardsville, NJ next door to Osteria Morini, and Vaucluse, a modern and stylish French brasserie on Park Avenue. Its latest venue is a third outpost of Nicoletta in the King of Prussia mall in Pennsylvania. Chef White is co-author of Classico e Moderno: Essential Italian Cooking and the author of Fiamma: The Essence of Contemporary Italian Cooking. In 2010, he was named one of the “40 Most Influential New Yorkers Under 40” by Crain’s New York Business and in 2013, received his fourth nomination for Best Chef from the James Beard Foundation.
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LA PAPILLOTE
Graduation
Bachelor’s Graduation Speaker: Robert Unanue President of Goya Foods, Inc. Robert Unanue is president of New Jersey-based Goya Foods, a family-run company offering authentic Latino cuisine. Goya has the distinction of being the largest Hispanic-owned food business in the United States. Since becoming president in 2004, Mr. Unanue has successfully led Goya Foods in generating over $1.4 billion in annual revenue, developing more than 2,500 products, and employing over 4,000 employees. He oversees 26 production and warehouse facilities in locations worldwide, including the U.S., Puerto Rico, the Dominican Republic, and Spain. In 2005, Mr. Unanue played a key role in developing a 10-year strategic plan and $500 million investment in a global expansion designed to reach new consumers and strengthen the Goya brand worldwide. Around that same time, he oversaw the opening of four new state-of-the-art manufacturing and distribution centers in Texas, California, Georgia, and New Jersey to meet consumer demand. At a young age, Bob
worked on Goya’s production line in Brooklyn, NY, packing olives and olive oil. He also worked the printing press and even drove delivery trucks in the early stages of his career. While at college, Bob studied accounting at Merrimack College in North Andover, MA, as well as at the University of Seville, where he was instrumental in establishing Goya’s foothold in Spain. Today, the Seville unit of Goya is a significant olive and olive oil exporter to the U.S. Upon completing his education, Mr. Unanue joined Goya as a buyer and implemented four new bean-packing lines. After this assignment, he relocated to Goya de Puerto Rico as purchasing director. In 1983, Mr. Unanue advanced to vice president and general manager of the company and was instrumental in establishing a steel cutting factory (Island Coil Corp.) as well as a lithography company (Island Litho Corp.) for Goya’s can-making facility (Island Can Corp.). In 1990, Mr. Unanue returned to Goya Foods, Inc. in New Jersey as vice president of
operations. During this period, he introduced a new production line of ready-cooked rice and managed Goya’s 11 warehouses in the United States. Mr. Unanue became president of Goya Foods in California in 1997, and two years later, president of Goya Florida, where he was responsible for the Miami and Tampa facilities as well as exporting products. Mr. Unanue was named to the Business of the Year Hall of Fame in 2014 by NJBIZ, New Jersey’s leading business journal. In 2011, Goya representatives were invited to the White House by President Barack Obama, who recognized the company for its continued success and commitment to the Hispanic community. And in 1999, the Smithsonian National Museum of American History in Washington, DC opened a Goya Foods exhibit. Mr. Unanue sits on the boards of the U.S. Hispanic Chamber of Commerce, the Maestro Cares Foundation, and New Jersey City University.
photo courtesy: Leslie Jennings
Bachelor’s Graduating Class of April 12, 2017
photo courtesy: Jennifer Speziale