September 8, 2017 Issue

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Volume 38, No. 11

September 8, 2017

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Papillote

Are Meal Kits the New Grocery Store? BY: April Johnson, AOS Culinary

In an era where people are seeking convenience, online food delivery services are becoming more and more popular in American households. With the ability to have meal kits and

A hello fresh meal kit photo courtesy: Hello Fresh

groceries delivered to your front door, companies like Blue Apron, Hello Fresh, and Amazon are making millions of dollars with this new trend in family meals. The meal kit market is currently worth

2.2 billion dollars, according to CNBC. and is projected to continue to rise in the foreseeable future. With the ease of meal delivery services, how are these companies affecting grocery

stores? Will we be seeing more and more online meal kit services in the future? There are many pros to ordering from meal kit companies. Besides the convenience, companies like Blue Apron make meals appear at your door preportioned, allowing people to get and create nutritious meals without having to leave their homes. Each meal kit comes with easyto- follow instructions and some items already cut for you, cutting down cook time and taking out a lot of the guess work. With easy prep and cooking methods, these companies are able to market to many different demographics. Whether it be the family who wants to get everyone involved in the kitchen or the busy couple looking to take a break from microwave dinners, these companies cater to everyone, making it such a booming industry. There are, of course, some cons to this convenience-

driven system. Sustainability comes into question with meal kits because each item is individually packaged, and not all packaging is recyclable. The amount of travel that it takes to ship a meal kit from the factory to the consumer’s home is another reason why some say that meal kits aren’t environmentally friendly. Buying groceries in bulk from a store to make a meal costs on average 4 dollars per person while meal kits average 10 dollars per person, causing consumers to spend more money per meal than they would at a grocery store. Grocery stores don’t have to pay for packaging like meal delivery services have to, which is why grocery stores are able to sell more food for cheaper. Another down fall to these meal delivery services is that most companies require a minimum amount of meals to be purchased a week or

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Life Alongside Food BY: Jose Antonio Artigas, Alumni Contributor

I have always thought that traveling is the gateway to personal growth, that personal growth might be manifested intellectually, spiritually or emotionally. In this case the growth is translated through food. To understand the whole story, we have to start at the beginning. The first relevant food memory I have takes place in the state of Maine. I was three years old, and my parents decided to take a little trip from Mexico City to Maine. They decided to bring my grandmother along, so she could give them a hand with my brother who at the time was merely a one year old. For the whole trip, I can’t recall everything but the thing that stayed very vividly in my mind is the food. It was the first time I was on a New England style pier. We entered this nice restaurant where the specialty was lobster, I had never eaten lobster before. After 20 minutes, this weird, red, sea monster arrived at the

table. My mother explained what it was and told me I was supposed to eat it. Are you kidding me? I have to eat that? That thing looked awful. My mother had always said that I was a kid that wasn’t afraid of eating anything that looked off-putting. I needed some help breaking up the lobster, but when I finally got to the meat, BOOM! This soft creamy lobster that was dipped in butter exploded in my brain. My frontal lobe was going crazy. What was this food sent from Mount Olympus, and why hadn’t I tried it before? I couldn’t believe that such an ugly critter could taste that good. That was the moment I realized that no matter how bad food looks, you should always try it before saying you don’t like it. I’ve had the luck that my parents like to travel, and they don’t like to leave my brother and I behind. Another thing I got lucky with is that they are both foodies, and are not afraid to explore the culinary corners of the world. That being

“Campus” August News Letter

“Restaurant Review” Market Street

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photo courtesy: Konbini.com

said, that is the main reason why I enjoy not just food, but traveling so much. When I say traveling we must understand that there are two different ways of traveling. One of them is what I like to call “over the surface traveling.”

This type of traveling involves touristic restaurants, long hours in the hotel, visiting main monuments or attractions, and you get the idea. The other type of traveling is what I call “traveling”. This one takes an open-minded person

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“Features” Hurricane Harvey

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to achieve. It is a holistic experience. Yes, you will visit the main attractions and monuments as well, but what differentiates this “traveling”, is the fact that you are not afraid to explore. Alley-

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LA PAPILLOTE

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Editorial

Papillote

THE NEWSPAPER OF THE CULINARY INSTITUTE OF AMERICA SINCE 1979

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June 17, 2016

PUBLISHER The Student Affairs Division EDITOR-IN-CHIEF Alison Sprong LAYOUT EDITOR Michael Feist ADVERTISING MANAGER Sue Haug CONTRIBUTORS April Johnson Jose Antonio Artigas Catherine Elsaesser Alison Sprong Madison Paras Sarah Bobier Kayleigh Capmanbe Shelly Loveland Jeff Levine

From the Editor’s Desk

Mike Feist Nathan Flintjer

Dear Fellow Students, Welcome back! I hope your summer break was relaxing. Now it is time to hit the books and get back into the CIA routine. In this issue, you’ll find the first editions of two new columns. The first is Culinary Clinic, which explores the relationship between our lives in the kitchen and our health. You’ll also find Visit the Valley, which highlights fun and exciting activities within reach of our school. Speaking of fun activities, you can read about Market St. Restaurant in Rhinebeck. Perhaps it will inspire you to have a back to school celebration.

COMPACT

La Papillote, the Newspaper of the Culinary Institute of America since 1979, is dedicated to respecting the mission, history and values of the college. Our primary purpose is to report the news of the institution to the students and other members of the campus community. We examine contemporary issues of the food service and hospitality industries to inform, challenge and develop the minds of students as they aspire to leadership roles in their chosen profession. We reflect the diverse views of the student body and provide a forum for civil discussion. Above all else, in our reporting and features, we strive to be accurate, fair, unbiased and free from distortion. Whenever we portray someone in a negative light or accuse a party of wrongdoing, we will make a real effort to obtain and print a response from that subject in the same issue. We will not plagiarize. Articles and features are expected to be independent assessments on a topic by an individual author. The views expressed are those of the author’s alone. They do not necessarily represent the views or opinions of La Papillote or its staff, nor do they represent the views or opinions of The Culinary Institute of America, or any entity of, or affiliated with the college.

FOOD REVIEW POLICY

As a valuable part of our content, La Papillote offers restaurant reviews. It is in the best interest of our readership to be honest, accurate and fair in providing information and judgment on these establishments. Reviews will reflect the writer’s opinions about the menu, atmosphere and service. Whenever possible, reviews will be conducted with complete anonymity. Permission from the restaurants will not be secured prior. All issues of La Papillote are available online, therefore, the critiqued restaurants, along with the public, can view editions at anytime on the web.

On the cover you’ll learn about how meal kits are changing our industry. After that, read about one student’s experience tasting his way through different countries. CIA students are getting into the competitive spirit! The Ment’or Commis competition and Skills USA are in full swing. Both are a great way to get involved. There is no doubt that Hurricane Harvey has had a tremendous impact on our country. You can look into how it will affect our industry in this issue. Finally, we are excited to announce the start of our “Best of the Block” photo contest! If you have some great photos of the campus happenings, Instagram them and use the hashtag #papilloteBoB. We will publish one photo each issue. Remember, meetings are the first Tuesday of each block at 9:15pm in the SRC conference room. All are welcome! Cheers. Alison Sprong

EDITORIAL POLICY

La Papillote welcomes submissions of work from students, chefs and outside professionals. The decision to print is based on the following criteria: quality of content, value of content to our readers, quality of writing, originality, objectivity, layout, and verifiability. Besides the Editor, there are two Copy Editors who read over submitted articles. Major changes will be reported to writers before the issue goes out. However, any other changes that need to be edited close to the deadline may or may not be forwarded to writers. This is due to the fact of lack of time. It is asked for writers to trust the Editor’s decision at this point during layout. Please direct all submissions to: Kevin Markey, Editor-In-Chief at lapapillote.culinary@gmail.com.

LETTERS POLICY

Letters to the Editor may not exceed 250 words and they should be exclusive to La Papillote. In selecting letters, the editors try to present a balance of views. We reserve the right to edit for space, clarity, civility and accuracy, and will send you the edited version before publication. If your letter is selected, we will try to reach you in necessary cases to verify the letter’s authenticity, to clarify your motivation, to clarify your relation to the subject for our readers or to verify facts or sources. Letters to the Editor may be sent to lapapillote.culinary@gmail.com with “Letter to the Editor - For Publication” in the subject line. Please include your phone number.

Alison Sprong Editor-in-Chief

Mike Feist Layout Editor

April Johnson Social Media Manager

NOTICE OF NON-DISCRIMINATION

The Culinary Institute of America (CIA) is an Equal Opportunity Employer committed to the principle of equal opportunity in education and employment. The CIA does not discriminate against individuals on the basis of race, color, sex, sexual orientation, gender identity, religion, disability, age, genetic information, marital status, veteran status, ancestry, national or ethnic origin, or any other protected group or classification under federal or state laws. The following persons have been designated to handle inquiries regarding the non-discrimination policies: Civil Rights Compliance Officers Joe Morano HR Director-Faculty Relations

Maura A. King Director-Compliance

Title IX and Age Discrimination

Section 504/ADA

Office: Roth Hall Room S324

Office: Roth Hall Room S351

Telephone: 845-451-1314

Telephone: 845-451-1429

Email: J_morano@culinary.edu

Email: m_king@culinary.edu

The Culinary Institute of America 1946 Campus Drive Hyde Park, NY 12538 Should you require further information, please visit http://ciachef.edu/consumerinformation.

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September 8, 2017

Campus

August News Letter

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BY: Jeff Levine, Staff Contributor

The best chef in the United States, according to the American Culinary Federation, is a CIA graduate. Drew Garms, executive chef of The Everglades Club in Palm Beach, FL earned the title of USA Chef of the Year at the ACF National Convention & Show in July. Another alumnus, Michael Beriau, was honored by the nation’s leading culinary association with the Hermann G. Rusch Chef’s Achievement Award. Chef Garms became a finalist for the national Chef of the Year award after being honored as the Southeast Regional Chef of the Year earlier this year. He then won a cook-off against his fellow regional winners to earn the highest honor bestowed by ACF. Chef Beriau, who recently retired after a 48-year culinary career, earned his award for commitment to the ACF and advancing the culinary profession. Prior to his retirement, Beriau was executive chef at White Cliffs Country Club in Plymouth, MA. His brother Wilfred Beriau, also a CIA graduate, won the same award in 2012. Several other CIA graduates were recognized by the ACF for 2017. Peter Felton, Peter Salemno, and Stephen Afflixio received Cutting Edge Awards for their innovation and leadership; Felton, Kathleen Salemno, and Charlie Gipe received Presidential Medallions for contributions to the culinary profession; Gerard Molloy won the Chef Good Taste Award; and Roger Newell was the recipient of the Lawrence A. Conti Chair’s Achievement Award. Seven other alumni were inducted into the American Academy of Chefs—the ACF’s honor society. More than 1,100 chefs, cooks, students, and foodservice professionals attended this year’s ACF National Convention & Show in Orlando, FL. CIA PRESIDENT FEATURED ON HERITAGE RADIO PROGRAM The path to becoming president of the world’s leading food-focused college can take many twists and turns. Although he has been at the helm of the CIA since 2001, Dr. Tim Ryan didn’t set out to become its president. Heritage Radio Network’s All in the Industry program recently spent almost an hour chatting with Dr. Ryan, a CIA graduate who, in addition to holding an Ivy League doctorate, is a Certified Master Chef and Culinary Olympic champion.

Find out what he really wanted to be in life, before his culinary career took him around the world and then back to his alma mater. During his discussion with host Shari Bayer, Dr. Ryan also shares recent and future CIA educational innovations and offers his take on the food issues of the day. The Brooklyn-based Heritage Radio Network produces dozens of weekly radio shows and podcasts about the food, beverage, and hospitality industry. The episode can be streamed or downloaded as a podcast online. COOKING UP A NATION: STUDENT-CURATED EXHIBIT OPENS Students in the CIA’s Food History class spent the justcompleted semester researching and curating a museum exhibit. Through the use of primary texts, cultural artifacts, and multi-media, the students created Cooking Up a Nation: [Im]migration and American Foodways, an exhibit showcasing many aspects related to historical and cultural intersections with the migration of people to America. Some explored themes include: pre-nation migrants from Europe and Africa and interactions with native peoples; the century of immigration from Europe and the Asia and how patterns of settlement and push-pull factors affected food practices and traditions; how national immigration policies corresponded with attitudes toward what constituted “Americans” and “American foods”; and the rise of a globalized palate across the American landscape. The students wrote interpretive and descriptive text to accompany each theme and produced multi-media components to introduce video and audio components to the exhibit. The exhibit is free and open to the public. It will be on display in the Conrad N. Hilton Library on the New York campus until December 13, 2017.

Chef Drew Garms photo courtesy: American Culinary Federation

from six different wineries in one place. Established in 2007 and originally housed at the CIA at Greystone, the Wine Hall of Fame moved to Copia to give broader public recognition to the men and women whose vision and determination have made the American wine industry what it is today. This free exhibit consists of bronze bas relief sculptures of inductees, along with their biographies. The Wine Tasting Showcase utilizes six custombuilt wood bars, designed by local artist Luigi Oldani, that serve as the tasting stations. Each winery offers a selection, and guests can choose which wineries they want to visit and which wines they’d like to taste, giving them the freedom to create their own tasting experience. Stations are

hosted by the wineries’ own educators so guests can learn about the wines directly from a winery representative. The collection of wineries will change every few months. BREW U AT THE CIA Love beer? Join the CIA for Brew U! The New York campus hosts its second annual Brew U beer festival on Saturday, October 7. Being a CIA event, guests can, of course, expect wonderful food and drink—and the “U” part means there will be fun, educational seminars for beer and culinary enthusiasts at the same time. Beers will include those produced at The Brewery at the CIA, as well as from other leading local and regional craft brewers. Demonstrations and

seminars by CIA Head Brewer Hutch Kugeman, Professor John Fischer, and other beer experts will explore the art and science of brewing and how to appreciate fine beers. Save $20 by getting your tickets early. Pre-sale tickets are available until August 30 at $65 per person. After that, it’s $85. VIP admission gets guests an extra hour of beer, food, and meeting brewers and beer experts. Those tickets are $90 until August 30, and $110 after. Along with the CIA, the event is cosponsored by iHeartMedia and Dutchess Tourism. More details are at www.ciarestaurantgroup. com/events/cia-brew-u-beerclasses-and-food-festival/.

CIA AT COPIA UNCORKS WINE TASTING SHOWCASE The Culinary Institute of America at Copia introduces its Wine Tasting Showcase—an interactive and immersive tasting experience featuring a rotating selection of wineries from the Napa Valley and beyond. The Showcase is located in the CIA at Copia’s newly installed Wine Hall of Fame, offering visitors a unique opportunity to taste wines

photo courtesy: The Culinary Institute of America


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LA PAPILLOTE

Features

cont’d from Grocery a subscription. This allows less flexibility for buyers and requires most to be completely committed to meal kits. How are grocery stores affected by meal kit companies? According to CNBC, online meal kits represent 1.5 billion dollars out of an 800 billion dollar grocery industry. With so much potential growth for meal kit services, grocery stores are finding ways to stay ahead of their competition. For some, that means selling meal kits in their stores. Whole Foods has created a play on meal kits to try and keep up. In their stores, they have a display with a picture of a dish and the recipe for it. Underneath the picture are all the ingredients needed to make that dish. Whole Foods

cont’d from Life Alongside ways, streetcars, night markets, seaside shacks, or anything that is true to the area’s culture. This is the path you must take if you want a true cultural experience. There are different countries that have marked my culinary knowledge. I have decided to share with you the ones that live very vividly in my mind. These countries and experiences are not in the order I have visited, since I have been multiple times throughout the years. To begin, there is one that I can’t forget, and even have an obligation to mention, is my own Mexico. Without my beautiful country’s culinary repertoire, I don’t think I would be where I am right now. The first encounters with food that is out of the ordinary in the occidental world took place in Mexico. I can’t recall the dates, but it was at a very young age when I first tried chapulines, guzanos de maguey, chicatanas, escamoles and many other bugs and miscellaneous insects. It was in the town of Tepoztlan when I first tried the chapulines or grasshoppers. They are sold in the main market in the center of the town. They are small, crunchy, and a little sour. If you add lime, salt and chili powder, it makes a perfect afternoon snack. Escamoles might be something that is a little weirder since they are edible ant larvae. One would think the idea of eating larvae a monstrosity, but in Mexico they are actually considered a delicatessen. My first escamole encounter was in a fine dining restaurant; yes they serve

requires the shopper to buy the items in bulk and gives shoppers the convenience of having all the ingredients in one place instead of roaming all the aisles to find the ingredients. Kroger has launched it’s own meal kits to try and compete with meal delivery services as well. Kroger offers five different meal kit options that range in price from $7- $18 per person. 1 in 4 Americans have purchased meal kits in the last year, and 70% ordered a subscription to a meal delivery service after their trial period was over, according to CNBC. Meal kits and online delivery services aren’t going away any time soon. Meal delivery services are predicted to make 36 billion dollars in profits by the year 2026. With this prediction, more and more meal delivery services will be created and there will be competition between grocery stores and the online

food companies themselves. Blue Apron’s stock has gone down by almost 50% as a result of Amazon announcing it’s own online meal delivery services and by going public. There is plenty of competition and growth to be had in this new way of shopping. Most meal kit services only offer dinner, allowing companies to expand and create meal kits for breakfast, lunch, and snacks. Many suggest that if grocery stores want to stay ahead and make a profit, they need to partner with meal kit services to sell meal kits in their stores or create their own brand of pre-portioned meals cheaper than the online companies sell theirs. Companies like Blue Apron, Plated, Hello Fresh, and countless others will not be disappearing any time soon. Americans, especially millennials, love this new way of making dinner at home with ease. More companies

will be created over the years, and it will be interesting to see how more grocery stores respond to meal kit services.

those in fine dining restaurants. They are considered the Mexican caviar; they are white and look like tiny beans. If you’re not told what they are, it is impossible to decipher what you are eating. As for the taste, they have a wonderful nutty taste accompanied by a creamy texture. These different dishes have given me an appreciation for food that is unorthodox to the occidental world. Having this base has opened my eyes to the hidden wonders that the world has to offer. Now having a better understanding of food, I was able to appreciate food from a different point of view. The second country I want to address is France, especially the northern regions of Normandie and Bretagne. This is where I discovered how happy you can be wrestling a crab. In the region of Bretagne there is a little island called Belle-Ile-en-Mer. In this little island it is where I had my first true crepe and the best crabs I have ever eaten. My small mind couldn’t understand how in such a tiny place you could find something that would make me sigh every time I think about it. Sitting by the shore and having the Atlantic breeze hit my face, it is a feeling of pure happiness. The thing that made me have a lovehate relationship with the crabs is the fact that you have to wrestle them. When I say wrestling, it is the fact that the crab comes in one whole piece, and the process to eat might be as hard to achieve, as putting together piece of furniture from Ikea without the instructions. The Normandie region of France, which is located more towards the east than Bretagne, is

where I discovered true cheese. There is no specific place that I can recall, maybe it was but the amount of cheeses I tried absolutely mesmerized me, and even made me forget about everything in life and just focus on the food. The incredibly pungent smell, creamy texture and strong flavor of Pont L’Eveque will never leave my mind. The other cheese that had me impressed, and to this day I can eat a whole wheel in one sitting is the Camembert de Normandie. It’s perfectly balanced yet the flavor is strong; it is truly a cheese that truly marked my memory. The last stop on this culinary trip is the country of Spain, specifically Barcelona and Madrid. Near Barcelona, about one hour away from it, there is a town called Calafell where there is a restaurant called L’Espineta. Calafell is a seaside town that has an amazing variety of seafood. In L’Espineta they have a dish that is very well known around the Catalunya region of Spain, and it is called “arroz caldoso”. Arroz caldoso translates to broth rice. To be specific this is an arroz caldoso, which comes with bogavante, a type of lobster. To this day, it is one of my favorite dishes. It blends perfectly with the flavors of the lobster with the softness of the Bomba rice that is used in the recipe. The key factor to this recipe is the fact that you are at a beautiful beach enjoying a meal that could be one of the best meals you will have in your life; a glass of white wine in one hand and the most marvelous Mediterranean breeze on your face. The different factors made this place

a spot that I frequent at least once a year. The second experience that I had in Spain it took place in Madrid, at a restaurant called Jose Luis. This is where I tried a runny tortilla Espanola for the first time. The key to this tortilla is the runny egg. It is perfectly cooked so when you cut into this pancake like egg clump, the egg in the middle will be undercooked and it will run down your plate. At the beginning this gave me nausea, but as I stated before, we have to try everything before we say we don’t like it. After the first bite, I fell in love immediately. This texture that the undercooked egg gives to the overall flavor of the tortilla, it is absolutely priceless. Overall these are some of the culinary milestones in my life. There are many more that are just as important, like the first time I enjoyed beef tartar, but those I will save for another occasion. I believe that throughout all of these milestones I have learned a different way of viewing things and how different cultures will interpret ingredients. As I have stated, now for the third time, we have to try everything before we say we don’t like it. We at least owe the creator of the dish the respect. We might not like it afterwards but we won’t know until we try. If we never open our doors to discovery we will never find the true meaning of food.


ON CAMPUS

September 8, 2017

Restaurant Review

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A Meal on Market St. BY: Catherine Elsaesser, AOS Baking

My favorite way to explore a new city or place is to try restaurants in the area. When I arrived at the The Culinary Institute of America in June, I was excited to begin tasting my way through Hyde Park, Poughkeepsie, and the surrounding Hudson Valley that is so well known for food and wine. Having attended school in upstate New York for a few years already, I have developed an appreciation for local food and for the quality of the products produced in this region. When dining out, I search for restaurants that source local quality ingredients and pass on information about them to the guests. It is important to me as a diner to frequent restaurants that are supporting the local food community, and Market St. restaurant in Rhinebeck does just that. I was excited to see the farms and purveyors that the restaurant partners with on the bottom of the menu when I recently dined there for a friend’s birthday. Market St., appropriately named, is located on Market Street in the downtown business district of Rhinebeck, NY. Rhinebeck is about a twenty minute drive north of the Culinary Institute. The restaurant is on a quieter section of the street, closely nestled with the historic homes in the neighborhood. Outside, there is seating on the front porch, allowing diners to take advantage of the beautiful summer weather.

Once entering the restaurant, the atmosphere is sleek, modern and welcoming. The low ceilings with white exposed beams, light wood tables, and casual striped napkins create an elegant but homey feeling for guests. The wood-fired pizza oven in the back of the restaurant accented by white backsplash tile completes the room. Our group of four settled into a table close to the pizza oven on a Saturday evening. I started off my meal with a glass of wine, choosing the Albarino, a high acid white from Galicia, Spain. Market St. offers a nice list of wines on tap and by the glass, as well as specialty cocktails, beer, and a longer wine list. This list mainly focuses on Italian regions but has selections from around Europe, new world regions, and local selections as well. My friend requested a mocktail, and the server was excited and more than willing to have the bartender create something for him based off of his requests. His ginger mocktail arrived in a martini glass with a sugar rim and was bright and refreshing. For my entree, I decided on the rigatoni pasta, which was prepared with sausage, peas, cream, tomato and pepper flakes. This dish provided the perfect, comforting balance of meatiness and creaminess with a hint of spice. My friend chose the homemade stracchino cheese ravioli, a summery dish with cherry toma-

Pizza with apples, caramelized onion and herbs at Market St. photo courtesy: Jackson Ward

toes, zucchini, corn and garnished with basil. One of my dining companions chose the garganelli Bolognese, topped with a mound of ricotta for added creaminess. Another companion was celebrating his birthday, and chose the special three course menu with limited selections that the restaurant was running that weekend. This in-

cluded an appetizer of a personal pizza topped with apples, caramelized onions, and herbs, an entree of duck breast with artichoke hearts and pureed potatoes, and a decadent flourless chocolate cake for dessert. The quality of all the dishes was high and the freshness of the ingredients was apparent in the food.

Overall, the meal and atmosphere of Market St. was very enjoyable, the service was friendly and accommodating, and as a student, I appreciated the quality and value of the meal. I look forward to my next visit to Market St. during my time in the Hudson Valley.

Restaurant FOR SALE The Roman Catholic Chapel of Our Lady of the Way (La Madonna della Strada)

Holy Mass Sundays 10:00AM & Noon Holy Days 12:00PM Chaplain: Father Marc Oliver chaplainua@gmail.com Office: 845-331-0436 Cellular: 845-594-9111

Calico Restaurant & Patisserie located in the heart of Historic Rhinebeck, NY village. Restaurant and pastry shop owned and operated by CIA graduate for 23+ years. Long term very favorable lease. Boutique restaurant and pastry shop has Two kitchens- 1) Full ala carte 2) Air conditioned pastry kitchen with sheeter. Excellent turn key opportunity for Chef and Pastry Chef team. Please contact Anthony Balassone (845)876-2749


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LA PAPILLOTE

Features

Hurricane Harvey Will Leave His Mark on the Restaurant Industry BY: Alison Sprong, AOS Culinary

Hurricane Harvey has battered the Gulf Coast of Texas this past week. Houston was among the major areas of devastation. The city is expected to see a year’s worth of rainfall during the storm’s course, according to CNBC. Many industry leaders saw the devastation that was to come for restaurants in the wake of Harvey. However, the aftermath may be worse than anyone

Houston Skyline in wake of Harvey photo courtesy: Dallas Observer

predicted. Houston is one of the largest restaurant markets in the country. It alone has 2% of the total restaurants in the United States. There are approximately 13,000 restaurants in Houston, all of which, have been forced to close due to the massive flooding. More than 7,000 of these restaurants are chain restaurants. Analysts predict that restaurants

will have to close their doors for a minimum of one week due to flooding damage to properties. However, we can expect this closure to be much longer due to the displacement of almost all restaurant employees. Wedbush has done an analysis to see how much loss restaurants can expect. One of the groups studied was the Fiesta Restaurant Group. Fiesta Restaurant Group owns Pollo

Tropical and Taco Cabana, both of which are popular chain restaurants often found in the South and South West. A whopping 27% of their restaurants are located in Houston. Per day, Wedbush estimates a loss of $217,000 for this group. Others that were included in the study were restaurants like The Cheesecake Factory and Jack in the Box. All of the restaurants showed significant losses because of the condition of Houston. This data also only applies to those chain restaurants. Small local restaurants will undoubtedly see bigger losses. The big chains have corporate funds that will go into rebuilding their locations. A majority of relief efforts from around the country will be going to rebuilding homes, and not businesses. If a restaurant owner cannot afford to repair their property, they will have to close their doors for good. We can expect many of the local restaurants to have a tough recovery, if a recovery at all. Another impact Harvey will have will reveal itself long after the debris is cleared. With thousands of people being affect-

ed by the storm, the one focus of Texans will be rebuilding. With what little disposable income is available, it will be going to rebuilding their lives and homes, not to eating out. This will continue the downward trend of restaurant profits. If you would like to help those affected by hurricane Harvey, there are several different ways. First, you can donate money. The Red Cross is a good place to give your donation. Next, many of the victims are injured and in need of blood. Donating blood is always a good way to help those affected by disaster. Another way is by donating food, water and clothing to the Salvation Army. Every little bit helps those who have lost tremendously in the wake of Harvey.


September 8, 2017

Features

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CIA Students to Compete in the Ment’or Commis BY: Madison Paras, AOS Culinary

CIA student competitors in the Ment’or Commis photo courtesy: Ment’or Commis Competition

It all started with Chef Paul Bocuse. He blazed a trail and a legacy that would last a lifetime. In 1987 the first Bocuse d’Or competition took place. This marked the beginning of an ever hungry and ready new generation of young cooks, and commis. The competition is designed to weed out the best of the best by having them compete to deem one country the culinary winners for that year. Comparable to the Olym-

pics, the Bocuse d’Or took the culinary world by storm, and has been the fuel for so many chefs’ careers. Bocuse had many talented chefs follow in his footsteps to forge the way further. With the likes of Daniel Boloud, and Thomas Keller being the face of the culinary world for so long they have defined a new age of cooking. Having taken over for Bocouse they have also extended

the wings of the competition to cover larger and even younger grounds. With the partnership of Chef Boloud and Chef Keller they created a foundation that trains young and hopeful chefs to look forward to the Bocuse d’Or by having them get a taste of competition. In doing this, they created what is known today as the Ment’or Commis and Young Chef Competitions. Each competition is

broken up by age, and is cut off by twenty-eight years old. Each competition has similar characteristics but are defined by the time allotment, and whether or not the young chefs are allowed to have an assistant for the duration of the competition. As for the commis competition the competitor is flying solo with a 90 minute time restraint to compose 10 identical dishes to present to the judges. The young chefs are allotted 2 hours and 30 minutes, and a assistant to support them during the cooking process. Each competition has to base their dish off of the selected protein chosen by the foundation. This year it is King Ora Salmon. This year there are four CIA students participating in the commis category. Four out of the six chosen for the competition are currently CIA students. Those students are: Ethan Hodge, Sharon Hwang, Carson Moreland and Madison Paras. Be sure to con-

gratulate them on their accomplishment, and extend yourself as a support system. The competition takes place in Las Vegas, Nevada in November.

Skills USA Returns to CIA BY: Sarah Bobier, AOS Culinary

Skills USA is a national vocational competition for both high school and university students. Students compete in hands on baking, culinary and restaurant service contests to earn scholarships. A typical competition for the restaurant service category would include a five course service for the judges in which participants must know pairings, allergens, table setup among other front of house skills. Baking and culinary competitions include set menus inclusive of many different techniques that have to be completed in a set time limit. If qualified, students first compete at regionals, which can include around six counties. The top three placing students move on to a statewide competition. The top placing student at states, will move on to the National competition, held in Kentucky. Nationals typically lasts about three days, and the top three students are awarded generous scholarships from colleges across the world. Among the great prizes,

participants are also given the opportunity to network with great industry leaders from around the world. The Culinary Institute of America recently has rejoined the competition. Students have formed a group in which a mentor is assigned to each individual, and the mentor guides them through the process of preparing for Skills USA. In last year’s competition, two CIA students placed at Nationals in the restaurant service category and the baking category. In order for students to compete in the competition, they must first apply on the official Skills USA website. Then, email Professor Ezra Eichelberger to be connected to the group on campus. The 2018 competition season will be starting soon. In order to fund this unique opportunity, Skills USA participants will be holding a fundraiser Friday September 8th . It will be held outside of Farqueson Hall from 10am – 2pm. At a discounted price, members will be

selling kitchen equipment and cutlery as well as an array of baking and culinary books. Any support for this amazing opportunity would be appreciated.

photo courtesy: mdskillsusa.org


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LA PAPILLOTE

Columns

Culinary Clinic: Hydration in the Kitchen BY: Kayleigh Chapmanbe, AOS Culinary

Welcome to Culinary Clinic, a new column where we explore the relationship between the kitchen and our health and wellness. In this issue, we look at dehydration and heat exhaustion. These are important things to keep in mind as we near the end of summer and temperatures are still high. The kitchen is a physically and mentally demanding environment that can become dangerous if you’re not prepared. Oftentimes the air temperature can be in excess of 90 °F in any season with equipment. This, along with the requisite highintensity activity level, demands adequate hydration each and every day. One may not realize how forgetting to consume enough fluids can affect their functioning in the kitchen. Dehydration can cause confusion and an inability to concentrate, which are both things you can’t go without in the kitchen. Chefs work with plenty of dangerous equipment including knives, gas stoves, blenders, slicers, and so much more. Chefs need to be able to concentrate in the kitchen so you don’t cut yourself, burn yourself or worse while going through production. Imagine cutting an on-

ion, with its many layers and a lot of moisture, which makes among the more difficult knife skills. About 30 minutes into production you are not able to focus on what you are doing with the knife, and it slips – right into your finger, cutting the tip off. You ask yourself what you did wrong? Was it posture, technique, or something else? In reality it may have been something as small as not drinking enough water while working

in the kitchen. Although many don’t even realize how much sweating is going on while you are busy working. A water bottle that you can refill throughout the day is an essential part of your daily mise en place. As you dehydrate throughout the day, your fluids need to be replenished to keep functioning efficiently. Remember, the recommended daily value of water according to the FDA is 8, 8 ounce

glasses, or 64 ounces. This number however increases when you are an active person. Some studies suggest that you should add 12 ounces for every 30 minutes your active. With the summer coming to a close, remember to stay hydrated to be your best self in the kitchen.

photo courtesy: breakingmuscle.com

Visit the Valley: Henry’s at the Farm BY: Madison Paras, AOS Culinary

Welcome to Visit the Valley, a column that will be exploring various aspects of the Hudson Valley. The Culinary Institute of America is in such an agriculturally rich area. There is more out there to experience than one may think. For the first venture out into the valley, I went to Henry’s at the Farm, a restaurant in Milton, NY. Only sixteen minutes away from campus, it

An outside view of Henry’s at the Farmphoto courtesy: upstatehouse.com

is a hidden gem in deep into the woods. Upon arrival, you feel as if though you missed your turn and your heading down a dead end when you finally stumble upon the cast iron gates. The first thing you see is the giant red barn over looking the property. A prosperous field with animals grazing is a nice back ground to your dining experience. Henry’s also has extensive educational program

which is reflected through the food served. I ordered the vegetarian option which changes each day and is created by the chef based on the produce available. I highly recommend it to really understand the philosophy of the farm. Henry’s at the farm was a little wake up call to my time here in the Hudson Valley. It reminded me that so much is around us for

us to take advantage of. I am going to keep seeking out the many things that this valley has to offer, and who knows where I will be next time.


September 8, 2017

Entertainment

Crossword

Last Puzzle Solution

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LA PAPILLOTE

Graduation

AOS Graduating Class of September 8, 2017

Culinary Arts Group #1

Front Row: Teahwan Lim, Yoojung Sili, Junhyung Kim Back Row: Soroogh Golbabice, Cherilyn Polito, Daniel Bettencount, Josh Kessler

Culinary Arts Group #3

Front Row: Min Soo Park, Keannie Rodriguez, Margaret DeMarco, Abigail Wallen, Katelynee McEllery, Logan Anson Back Row: Andre Lafontain Bedecarratz, Jaeyun Choi, Uriah Lindsay, Ryan Simpson, Dan Ciaccia, Joel Ornstih

Culinary Arts Group #2

Front Row: Victorica deBrain, Todd Wales, Laura Pradilla Back Row: James Goodman, Chase Carmel, Ben Daffern, Zachariah Crosby, Zachary Ryder

Baking and Pastry Group #1

Front Row: Elizabeth Lavingna, Madison Giacherio, Uracha Rakkommana, Jennifer Webb, Antonia Tsielepas, Avery Aguas, Roise Brown Back Row: Courtney Webster, Mileena Mgarin-Morgan, Joshua Kincade, Max Grower, Jacob Shults, Margaret Kellenberger, Mikayla Deruchia


September 8, 2017 Puzzle 1 (Medium, difficulty rating 0.56)

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AOS Graduation Speaker: Ben Daitz

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BY:4Shelly 8 Loveland, 9 5 3Staff 6 Contributor 7 1 2

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photo couresy of Leslie Jennings

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Num 9Co-owner, 7 2 2 5 Pang 9 8 1 3 6 8 6 4 7 3 Benjamin (Ben) Clarence Daitz is a managing partner of The Vanderbilt and Brooklyn Bangers in Brooklyn, NY and coowner of Num Pang, Cambodianstyle sandwich shops located in Manhattan and Boston. A proud third-generation New Yorker and the son of two professors, Ben Daitz grew up on Manhattan’s Upper West Side. His parents wanted to expose him to a number of different influences, so the family would travel to Paris every few years to dine at Michelin-starred restaurants, piquing his interest in the culinary world at a young age. After studying at Clark University, Chef Daitz reached out to a family friend who happened to be the chef at the French Consulate, and that friend coordinated stages for him at Bouley, Daniel, and Le Cirque. It was at Bouley where Ben became enthralled with the chef life, so he enrolled at The Culinary Institute of America, graduating in 1998. After a stint at San Francisco’s Michelin-starred La Folie with Roland Passot, he returned to his

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5 9 8 2 1 roots in New York City, joining Floyd Cardoz at Tabla just six months after it opened. Following his time at Tabla, Chef Daitz worked at Danube with Chef David Bouley before moving across the East River to work in Brooklyn at the Michelin-starred Saul. Taking a hiatus from the kitchen, he joined the private equity firm Time Equities and gained exposure to a whole new side of the restaurant business: real estate. A chance meeting on a New York City sidewalk with former Clark classmate Ratha Chaupoly rekindled their friendship, and led to a business partnership when he helped Chaupoly open Kampuchea Restaurant on the Lower East Side. At the same time, Chef Daitz started working with restaurateur Saul Bolton to build out The Vanderbilt, a gastropub in Prospect Heights, and the charcuterie company Brooklyn Bangers, which has recently expanded to multiple vendor stations at the Barclays Center in Brooklyn. He remains a managing partner at both properties.

In March 2009, Ben and Ratha responded to the popularity of the sandwiches at Kampuchea by opening Num Pang in Union Square. The Zagat Survey has since ranked Num Pang the number one fast casual restaurant in New York, and The Village Voice awarded it “Best Sandwich of 2013.” With it signature rooster logo and graffiti art on the walls contributed by local artists, the brand has since grown to include seven New York City shops as well as its debut Boston location, which opened in the iconic Prudential Center in Spring 2017.

Generated by http://www.opensky.ca/sudoku on Sun May 21 20:50:56 2017 GMT. Enjoy!

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LA PAPILLOTE

Campus

CIA Honors the Statler Foundation BY: Mike Feist, BBA Food Business Management

On July 26th 2017, the CIA dedicated the Statler Seminar Room in the Marriot Pavillion in honor of the Statler Foundation. Dr. Robert Bennett, its chairman, was the guest of honor at the naming ceremony, as well as the speaker for the school’s Associate Degree graduation later that day. On the lower floor of the Marriott Pavilion that day, CIA President Dr. Tim Ryan joined a small crowd in toasting Dr. Bennett on his achievements, successes, and work that has benefited our school. He called Dr. Bennett “a pioneer in his field, a true educational leader, and a great friend of the CIA.” Dr. Bennett was also the longtime Chancellor of the New York State Board of Regents, which issues degrees for students. He is currently chairman of the foundation named in honor of Ellsworth Milton Statler. E.M Statler was an early hotelier, developing luxurious, state-of-the-art hotels in the Northeast and major US cities beginning in Buffalo, New York. He is responsible for such innovations as providing guests at hotels private bathrooms, bed side lamps and a telephone to name a few. After his passing, E.M. Statler’s will created the foundation, which supports hospitality education, including at the CIA

since its inception, and has issued scholarships and grants for the benefit of CIA students. The foundation’s $20,000 Scholarship of Excellence is awarded annually to a deserving student. The last to receive this award was Paige Tobias (2015), Jaleesa Mason (2014), and Lea Aclan (2013). In addition to the generous scholarships, the foundation has awarded the CIA nearly $2.9 million in funds. These funds have gone to several spaces within the school including the The Seminar Room (in the Marriott Pavilion), The Lounge (in The Egg), and The Dining Room (at Copia). In an interview with Elly Erickson, a CIA advancement officer, Dr. Bennett explains his passion for supporting the CIA, “in keeping with the ambitions of Mr. Statler and his wife Alice, we want to support well – prepared men and women who meet high standards and succeed in rigorous education programs, so when they graduate they have a commitment to stay in the industry. The CIA is such a program, with its reputation for excellence, very high standards, and very high quality service.” President Ryan and Dr. Bennet at the room dedication photo courtesy: Mike Feist

Annual CIA Chili Cookoff Set for September 24th BY: Nathan Flintjer, Staff Contributor

It’s Time for Chili!!!! Bring your appetite and come down to the Athletic Field (the Gym if raining) on Sunday September 24th from 12:00 pm - 4 pm for the 26th Annual Chili Cook-Off!!! This year we are going to have some AMAZING Chili for you to try and you can even take part in picking a winner with The People’s Choice Award! Also, this year we received a Generous Donation from Agribeef who are donating Ground Beef, Brisket, Ground Pork, Eye of Round, and Pork Boneless Sirloin! So, not only are you going to get to sample some of the BEST Chili you have ever had, it’s also going to feature some of the highest quality cuts of meat! Now a Chili Cook-Off would be fun on its own but we are not stopping there my friends! During the cook-off come down and take part in the Student Government Association Fall Fest Carniphoto courtesy: Nathan Flintjer

val! The event will feature some of your favorite traditional Fall foods, snacks, and games! If you have any questions about the event please contact Nathan Flintjer, The Assistant Director for Student Life at Nathan. Flintjer@Culinary.edu or at 845451-1408. See you there!!!


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