October 20, 2017
La
Volume 38, No. 13
Papillote
Bar Chefs: The Modern Mixologist, Tony Abou-Ganim BY: Amanda Lamperti, Contributor
The term “mixologist” refers to an individual who possesses an “unusual interest and expertise in mixing drinks.” Professionals in the industry may refer to bartenders as parttime servers and part-time therapists. So, what does it take to be a mixologist over just an average bartender? La Papillote had a chat with Tony Abou-Ganim, the author of The Modern Mixologist, about the art of mixing drinks, the knowledge of the expert himself, and the hospitality that comes with the job of working behind the bar. The game of creative bartending was not always as cutting-edge and innovating in the restaurant industry as it is today. It is now its own sport that comes with a territory of high standards. In his book, Abou-Ganim talks about his experiences being raised in the bar business and what he has to do as the pioneer of mixology.
When it comes to learning how to mix excellent drinks, Abou-Ganim insists on simplicity. The basics are there for a reason, and it is important to start with a foundation, and to be well-knowledgeable about that foundation. He says, “when I’m talking with young bartenders, let’s not put the horse in front of the cart. Meaning, we need to learn, understand, and master the classics first. Although it is important to stay creative and innovative to stand out in the business, stick to what we know first. People, I think, try to get too creative, and we just make a mess.” He compares a mixologist to a well-seasoned cook by saying, “generally, it is the understanding of flavors, and flavors that complement one another. And people who understand food and cooking, generally are creative bartenders.” He expands by reiterating, “taste, taste, taste” so that you know and become familiar with your ingredi-
ents. By doing this, you can only make food and beverages better. He says, “my mom always said never trust a skinny chef, which I guess translates over to never trust a sober bartender. You need to taste things to understand what they taste like and how they will work in different cocktails. Food and drink parallel one another.” Abou-Ganim goes on to further explain how everyone working in a restaurant should know a thing or two about each others’ specialties. A guest in that restaurant will not separate each part of their experience, but rather remember their whole experience there. Abou-Ganim states, “… regardless if the back of house plans to never work behind the bar, the better they understand the spirits and ingredients that we utilize in our cocktails, the better we prepare the food they’re serving, the better I think it is for
Cont’d on pg. 4
Tony Abou-Ganim
photo courtesy: Tim Turner Studios
Taste of “Pursued By Bear” with Kyle MacLachlan BY: Zach Zollo, Contributor
On October 3rd, acclaimed actor Kyle MacLachlan hosted a wine tasting in the Danny Kaye Theater, showcasing two of his wines from his Washington-based winery, Pursued By Bear. The event, sponsored by the Bacchus Wine Society, was ripe with winemaking knowledge, MacLachlan’s infectious personality, and an undeniably jovial atmosphere. The tasting began as MacLachlan shared how he named his winery after the stage direction “exit, pursued by a bear” from Act III of William Shakespeare’s A Winter’s Tale. MacLachlan founded Pursued by Bear in 2005 with his friend and mentor, Eric Dunham. Starting on a minute scale with Dunham’s juice and MacLachlan’s barrels, the winery gradually increased its case production. Currently 1,600 cases of Cabernet Sauvignon are planned for the 2016 vintage. The winery
sources from vineyards across the Columbia Valley, located in Eastern Washington. As MacLachlan explained, the valley’s terroir is perfect for winemaking, particularly red varieties, due to its dry climate, acidic landscape (a result of the prehistoric Missoula Flood), and its warm days and cool nights. Ultimately, MacLachlan aspires for his company’s wines to be easily approachable and food friendly. The Bacchus Wine Society President, Bryn Timmis and the La Papillote Editor-in-Chief, Alison Sprong, led the first part of the Q&A with discussion relating to both his wine label and acting career. MacLachlan discussed the similarities between acting and wine making and gave CIA students the advice he later heard, which was to “relax.” Following the presentation, legal-age attendees were invited to taste the presented rosé and Cabernet Sau-
Cont’d on pg. 4
P3
“Features” Sukkot
Kyle MacLachlan with his Cabernet Sauvignon
Papillote
En
“Reviews” The Amsterdam
P8
CENTER SPREAD P 6-7
“Features” The Chevy Chase Club
photo courtesy: Pursued by Bear
P 10-11
“Graduation” Speaker Claus Meyer BACK PAGE P 12
“Local” Rhinebeck Farmers Market
LA PAPILLOTE
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Editorial
Papillote
THE NEWSPAPER OF THE CULINARY INSTITUTE OF AMERICA SINCE 1979
En
October 20, 2017
PUBLISHER The Student Affairs Division EDITOR-IN-CHIEF Alison Sprong LAYOUT EDITOR Mike Feist ADVERTISING MANAGER Sue Haug CONTRIBUTORS Catherine Elsaesser Khori Eubanks Mike Feist Valerie Goodrich April Johnson Amanda Lamperti Ashleigh Lyons Shelly Loveland
From the Editor’s Desk
Cameron Schneider Michael Wein Zach Zollo
Dear Fellow Students, On the cover of this issue, you can meet two very influential people in the beverage business. Modern mixologist Tony Abou - Ganim and wine maker Kyle MacLachlan share their ideas on mixing drinks and making wine. If you are feeling anxious about your upcoming extern experience, read one student’s account of her extern at The Chevy Chase Club. Learn more about food waste, cacao, and Sukkot in this issue. Each feature has great information about topics that you may not know too much about.
COMPACT
La Papillote, the Newspaper of the Culinary Institute of America since 1979, is dedicated to respecting the mission, history and values of the college. Our primary purpose is to report the news of the institution to the students and other members of the campus community. We examine contemporary issues of the food service and hospitality industries to inform, challenge and develop the minds of students as they aspire to leadership roles in their chosen profession. We reflect the diverse views of the student body and provide a forum for civil discussion. Above all else, in our reporting and features, we strive to be accurate, fair, unbiased and free from distortion. Whenever we portray someone in a negative light or accuse a party of wrongdoing, we will make a real effort to obtain and print a response from that subject in the same issue. We will not plagiarize. Articles and features are expected to be independent assessments on a topic by an individual author. The views expressed are those of the author’s alone. They do not necessarily represent the views or opinions of La Papillote or its staff, nor do they represent the views or opinions of The Culinary Institute of America, or any entity of, or affiliated with the college.
Loving the fall weather? This issue has three suggestions as to where to go enjoy some outdoors and where to find a good bite. The Cafeteria and The Amsterdam are two restaurants being reviews in this issue. The Rhinebeck farmers market is also a great place to spend those fall mornings. Finally, read about the new food photography class coming to the CIA in May. Remember, meetings are the first Tuesday of each block at 9:15pm in the SRC conference room. All are welcome! Cheers. Alison Sprong
FOOD REVIEW POLICY
As a valuable part of our content, La Papillote offers restaurant reviews. It is in the best interest of our readership to be honest, accurate and fair in providing information and judgment on these establishments. Reviews will reflect the writer’s opinions about the menu, atmosphere and service. Whenever possible, reviews will be conducted with complete anonymity. Permission from the restaurants will not be secured prior. All issues of La Papillote are available online, therefore, the critiqued restaurants, along with the public, can view editions at anytime on the web.
EDITORIAL POLICY
La Papillote welcomes submissions of work from students, chefs and outside professionals. The decision to print is based on the following criteria: quality of content, value of content to our readers, quality of writing, originality, objectivity, layout, and verifiability. Besides the Editor, there are two Copy Editors who read over submitted articles. Major changes will be reported to writers before the issue goes out. However, any other changes that need to be edited close to the deadline may or may not be forwarded to writers. This is due to the fact of lack of time. It is asked for writers to trust the Editor’s decision at this point during layout. Please direct all submissions to: Dan Salisbury, Editor-In-Chief at lapapillote.culinary@gmail.com.
LETTERS POLICY
Letters to the Editor may not exceed 250 words and they should be exclusive to La Papillote. In selecting letters, the editors try to present a balance of views. We reserve the right to edit for space, clarity, civility and accuracy, and will send you the edited version before publication. If your letter is selected, we will try to reach you in necessary cases to verify the letter’s authenticity, to clarify your motivation, to clarify your relation to the subject for our readers or to verify facts or sources. Letters to the Editor may be sent to lapapillote.culinary@gmail.com with “Letter to the Editor - For Publication” in the subject line. Please include your phone number.
Alison Sprong Editor-in-Chief
Mike Feist Layout Editor
NOTICE OF NON-DISCRIMINATION
The Culinary Institute of America (CIA) is an Equal Opportunity Employer committed to the principle of equal opportunity in education and employment. The CIA does not discriminate against individuals on the basis of race, color, sex, sexual orientation, gender identity, religion, disability, age, genetic information, marital status, veteran status, ancestry, national or ethnic origin, or any other protected group or classification under federal or
April Johnson Managing Editor
Jennifer Knepper Copy Editor
state laws. The following persons have been designated to handle inquiries regarding the non-discrimination policies: Civil Rights Compliance Officers Joe Morano HR Director-Faculty Relations
Maura A. King Director-Compliance
Title IX and Age Discrimination
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Office: Roth Hall Room S324
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Telephone: 845-451-1314
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The Culinary Institute of America 1946 Campus Drive Hyde Park, NY 12538 Should you require further information, please visit http://ciachef.edu/consumerinformation.
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October 20, 2017
Forget an Apple a Day, Try Cacao!
Features
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BY: Khori Eubanks, Staff Writer
Cacao could greatly benefit your health photo courtesy: Marquette Magazine
We give it to our loved ones on Valentine’s Day. We splurge on it when we are feeling low. Unfortunately, our dogs cannot enjoy it with us. We accuse it of causing obesity, heart diseases and diabetes. Chocolate is one of the most complex and widely-known sweet treats available. Circa 600 AD, the Mayan civilization from Central America discovered cacao; it was later taken over to Europe in 1504 AD by Christopher Columbus. The Mayans enjoyed the cacao in the form of a drink called “chocolatl” which was made by roasting the beans and adding water with some spices. Cacao and chocolatl were both expensive and viewed as luxury items. The drink was expensive for more than just its delicious flavor; the Mayans were aware of the multitude of health benefits to be gleaned from cacao before all the additives and sugar came into play. In fact, the cacao bean has one of the highest lev-
els of antioxidants of any natural plant, yet the addition of dairy can block the absorption of these antioxidants. The health problems that stem from today’s chocolate consumption are really a result of all the added dairy and sugar products. We have not experienced real cacao; although dark chocolate can be good for you, cacao has even better health benefits. Today, cacao is sold as “nibs” which are fermented to preserve the antioxidants and later chopped up like chocolate chips. The positive part about these nibs is that they remain raw throughout processing, and when cacao is consumed raw, the health benefits are even greater than those potentially found in processed chocolate.
What is Sukkot? BY: Michael Wein, Staff Writer
It’s no longer deniable; the holiday season is upon us, and Halloween decorations are up for the world to see. Christmas trees and lights are already on sale in many stores, and families are reserving tickets to travel for Thanksgiving. Not all holidays get to have the spotlight, however, and Sukkot is one such holiday. If you have walked by The Egg at The Culinary Institute of America, you may have noticed a picnic table with a structure around it that was kindly provided by The Jewish Community Club. Why is it there? Sukkot is a Jewish holiday that is celebrated on the fifth day after Yom Kippur, the Day of Fasting. Sukkot is one of the three great feasts in Judaism, and is quite a drastic change from Yom Kippur. Sukkot is essentially a wild picnic party that lasts seven to eight days, based on where it is celebrated. Sukkot roughly translates to “booths,” in accordance with the Torah that says that God’s people shall “dwell in booths”. These booths are not like the ones you would find at a local Applebee’s, and are instead more comparable to a hut. Traditionally, Sukkot involves building huts called “sukkahs” with a roof of palm fronds called “s’chach.” What may be most perplexing are the very specific rules involved in building the hut. The roof should have large enough gaps that rain can go through and that you can see the stars at night, but it should give shade from
A traditional sukkah photo courtesy: A Mountain Hearth
sunlight. The hut itself must have two and a half walls and can be made with anything that cannot be blown away, so sukkahs made from canvas are very common. The roof is the most important element, as it’s supposed to symbolize God’s light; in this case the sun being focused into an amount that the human eyes can handle. This explains why some light should get through the roof, but not all as it would be overwhelming. Many modern sukkahs
are decorated by family members, much like a Christmas tree, but usually with dry gourds, corn and drawings made by children. Once the initial hut is built, Sukkot observers live in these huts for the duration of Sukkot, in fact, Jews are forbidden to work at all during the first two days of Sukkot. They eat, sleep and party within the hut, and also perform the important Hallel prayers. They also perform a blessing by waving a lulav, a closed palm frond woven with three myrtle branches
and two willow branches, and by holding an etrog, a citrus fruit native to Israel, close to the base of the lulav. The lulav and etrog are then waved in six different directions to symbolize that God exists everywhere. There are many other intricate prayers performed that I will not mention here, but a website link will be included at the end to for those who wish to learn more about this holiday. Some believe that this fall feasting, partying and praying is the main inspiration for Thanksgiv-
ing, and the similarities are undeniably present. Sukkot observers feast on the harvest vegetables with friends and families to be reminded of and show gratitude for the harvest and the blessings in their lives. We should call more attention to this holiday because there is so much to love about it. If you would like to learn more about this holiday, go to www. jewfaq.org for the full breakdown of the holiday according to various regions.
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LA PAPILLOTE
Features
cont’d from Bar Chefs
the overall guest experience.” He also highlights the fact that crossutilization is key in any restaurant. At the Libertine Social in Las Vegas, where Abou-Ganim runs the mixology program, he is “all for pushing the envelope and trying new things” while keeping the integrity and class of the cocktail. He says, “collectively, at our restaurant, we work with the pastry chef on garnish preparation, [and] we’ve got a great forager that always has new fruits and vegetables to try that are unique, that work just as great in the kitchen as they do in the bar.” Working with Executive Chef Shawn McClain is another part of incorporating food and drink; guests appreciate the time and thoughtfulness put into making the best possible drink for them to make it something unforgettable. And if there is an aspect about this business Abou-Ganim cannot stress enough, it is showing endless hospitality. “I think the number one skill set that a great bartender needs is to grasp on the art of hospitality.” He uses his favorite drink as an example to further explain what he means. “I often tell young bartenders I can teach you to make a great Negroni,” (equal parts gin, vermouth, and
Campari), “I just can’t teach you to love making that Negroni for your guests.” The underlying mission in this business is to serve guests, and to give them an amazing experience. And this is something where, especially if you’re working as a bartender or “mixologist”, you genuinely have to love it, or else you will not find success. “If you don’t love coming to work, and making drinks, and entertaining people, it’s going to be a long road, no matter how much you Google and Tweet and read and study taste. It’s people,” he says. He compares his beliefs to the results he sees in his own restaurant. “If they’re spending their hard-earned money with us, you want to create a friendship, I want them to come back, I want them to bring friends and family. And here [at the Libertine Social], we get really nice compliments on the food and drink, but the best compliments we get are on the staff and our hospitality.”
cont’d from Pursued by Bear
photo courtesy: Pursued by Bear
vignon. The rosé was Pursued By Bear’s second vintage, containing a blend of Grenache, Mourvedre and Cinsault that, according to MacLachlan, speaks to him personally. The flavor was noted by the audience as bright and fruity, with a balanced sweetness on the palette. Following the rosé was the Cabernet Sauvignon. Before tasting the cabernet, MacLachlan once again expressed his pride for his blend, as its first vintage was his Pursued By Bear’s first review, receiving a stellar rating of 91 from Wine Spectator magazine. Aged in new oak barrels, the red wine offered a rich, fullbodied flavor with a savory depth, lending itself to be paired well with a multitude of different red meats. The respective reactions to both wines were overwhelmingly positive. After the tastings, the event shifted into an open forum for questions, and this is where MacLachlan truly let his personality shine. When asked about where his love of wine originated, MacLachlan revealed that he first developed his passion when he would enjoy wine with family dinner at his high school girlfriend’s home. He also fondly recalled the time he received his first French wine, given to him by
his friend and frequent collaborator, director David Lynch, on the set of the film Dune. Many questions were also asked about MacLachlan’s acting career. Fans of the television show Twin Peaks were delighted by MacLachlan’s stories of working on the set of Twin Peaks: The Return, his explanation of his approach to playing multiple roles in the revival, his recollection of his friendship with David Lynch, and his own “interpretation” of the The Return’s finale: “I don’t even know what it means!” Fans of MacLachlan’s comedic television roles were also treated to stories of working on the sets of How I Met Your Mother and Portlandia. Overall, the Bacchus Wine Society sponsored event was a successful outing, and a true pleasure to be in attendance for. MacLachlan’s passion for winemaking was tangibly felt through the excellent wine provided; insight into his acting career and his humorous personality were also on display to the audience, who were brought to laughter a multitude of times. Ultimately, while an actor with a secondary career in winemaking may have been an unorthodox choice to have host a campus event, MacLachlan’s proved to be as sweet as his rosé in presence, and as deserving of praise as his cabernet in expertise.
October 20, 2017
Features
Wasted! Movie Premiere
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BY: Cameron Schneider, Staff Writer
A dark dress jacketwearing and groggy-voiced Anthony Bourdain made a quick cameo before the white screen and said “this is the first thing I ever did that might actually do some good.” It was a glitzy Thursday night in Brooklyn at the long-anticipated movie premiere of WASTED! The Story of Food Waste. Increasingly, food waste is the topic of environmentalists and foodies. Heaping, atrocious mountains of garbage as far as the eye can see, Mario Batali’s lewd language, and cheery pigs meeting Danny Bowien were among some of the most memorable moments in the film. The film wasn’t entirely negative, however. It looked towards the advancements that South Korea has made in minimizing food waste, banning food waste from landfills entirely in 2005. Fines have been imposed on waste and trucks have been dispersed to divvy-up the rotting food. In just three hours, food waste is turned into dynamic, nutritious animal feed or rich fertilizer. Another by-product of food waste processing is biogas, which meets 90 percent of a food waste plant’s electricity needs. Trial districts in Seoul have reduced household food waste by 30% and restaurants’ food waste by 40%. South Korea saw a great opportunity to intervene in the massive waste discrepancy. According to the United Nations, a third of food produced worldwide is spoiled in some way. Why should we, as future chefs care? Environmentally and economically, food waste’s contribution is anything but insignificant. Globally, food waste accounts for $1 trillion annually, and about $218 billion in the United States
photo courtesy: Cameron Schneider
alone. That’s grown, processed, and transported food that’s never consumed. Comparatively, composting wasted food is much less environmentally harmful than letting it escape to a landfill. In a landfill, food decomposes much more slowly. A head of lettuce would take twenty five years to entirely breakdown while bereft of oxygen and other essential conditions. That head of lettuce will also generate methane into earth’s atmosphere, a greenhouse gas that is 23 times more potent
than carbon dioxide. The United States Environmental Protection Agency says that our landfills account for 34% of America’s methane emissions.. Don’t go dumpster-diving yet—you can help in other ways, according to the film. Only get food you truly intend on eating, keep track of your refrigerator stock, and compost rather than throw away. Community efforts are beginning to arise, combatting the daunting challenge of food waste. In Washington D.C., the D.C. Central Kitchen provides
5,000 free and healthy meals for people, using local food waste. Massimo Bottura, the bubbly parmesan-savior, has started a nonprofit called “Food for Soul”, which use Refettorios or gathering grounds that turn food waste into food for people in need. Bottura began in Italy, but has plans of expanding to America in places such as the Bronx, Detroit, and New Orleans, among other places in the world. The collective of renowned foodies and star chefs definitely has had an impact on
me. What practices can the Culinary Institute of America take to eliminate food waste? After all, we are a prominent and influential food institution. Ultimately, WASTED! hopes to bring an awareness to the epidemic that wasters have unconsciously brought forth today.
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LA PAPILLOTE
Features
Extern at The Chevy Chase Club BY: April Johnson, Managing Editor
As an aspiring chef, the best gift you can receive is an environment where you are always put just a little bit outside of your comfort zone. I was fortunate enough to be in an environment during my externship this summer where I was pushed to grow. From May through August, I had the privilege of completing my externship at The Chevy Chase Club in Chevy Chase, Maryland, where I worked alongside chefs who constantly pushed me outside of my comfort zone and allowed me to be a part of memorable events. My externship was full of highlights, including working an action station for various club events and parties, helping to plan and execute a few Sunday brunch menus for the pool canteen and participating in the club’s biggest event of the year on July 3rd , during which we served 2,400 people and ended the night with a fireworks display on the golf course. Another opportunity that served to really push me outside of my comfort zone and consequentially inflict growth was being in charge of feeding 400 people at the employee picnic. For this picnic, I was
tasked with working alongside the chef to come up with a buffet-style menu to feed approximately 400 people, to help create diagrams for buffet layout, to order food and create a prep list and to oversee the other interns and staff in executing the buffet. I was required to attend meetings and gather with interns from other areas of the club to ensure we were all on the same page and that our responsibilities were staying on track. Planning this picnic definitely pushed me out of my comfort zone. Menu planning was challenging due to the “candy land” theme, specifically in finding the right balance of sweet and savory foods. Thankfully, the executive chef offered a lot of assistance, and we settled on a chicken and waffles station, a donut grilled cheese station, a salad bar and a dessert challenge held among the club’s senior staff members. Another area of professional growth was my management skills, as I was basically the chef on duty for the day of the picnic. Co-workers who normally instructed me were now coming to me for direction. It was a big switch in roles, and it showed me
photo courtesy: April Johnson
what I have to look forward to one day as an executive chef. I learned the value of managing stress well so that you can lead your team to success. When things went wrong or something had to be changed, I had to stay calm and focus on fixing the problem. Chefs were giving me their support, help and advice along the way, thus making the experience a positive learning
environment where it was acceptable to make mistakes, as long as a lesson was learned from them. This summer proved to be more of an adventure than I ever expected. The chefs at the Chevy Chase Club really helped me to grow into someone who can lead a kitchen one day. The picnic was successful, and all of the employees and their families
loved the food. I am now more confident in my abilities and possess the leadership skills necessary to manage others in a way that brings the whole team to success. I also learned that being out of your comfort zone is a good thing, because sometimes that is the best way to grow.
Win a Crooked Brook Chef Coat! THE ROMAN CATHOLIC CHAPEL OF
OUR LADY OF THE WAY (LA MADONNA DELLA STRADA)
HOLY MASS
SUNDAYS 10:00AM in the Extraordinary Form (1962, Latin) & NOON in the Ordinary Form (1970, English). HOLY DAYS NOON in the Ordinary Form. CHAPLAIN: FATHER MARC OLIVER chaplainua@gmail.com 845/594-9111
All Crooked Brook chef jackets are made to order in the USA, however, we have various styles and sizes that were not made according to the customer’s specifications,or have slight imperfections. These are the men’s and women’s chef coats that will be offered as prizes for giveaways. Crooked Brook chef jacket prices start at $85 and go up to well over $200, and with some of them, there is absolutely nothing wrong other than it is not what the customer ordered. For example; a size 16 chef jacket was made instead of a size 6, or the pocket placement is on the left chest instead of the left shoulder sleeve or a red jacket with black piping was made instead of a black jacket with red piping. While offering specific sized chef coats may appear to be a negative, it is not much of an issue since each giveaway will feature a different size and style and if you win and it is not your size, you can always give it as a gift or barter. Like and follow us on Facebook for current chef jacket giveaways or visit us at crookedbrook.com.
October 20, 2017
Features
Best of the Block Winner
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Congratulations to Aaron Davis (@aarone_davis) for winning this issue’s Best of Block contest! Great photos of the IPP showcase. Do you want to be featured in the next issue of La Papillote? Show us your best photos on Instagram using the hashtag #papilloteBoB. One winner will be chosen every issue to be published!
Photography and Styling, Now at the CIA BY: Mike Feist, Layout Editor
It’s been a long time coming – The Culinary Institute of America is finally introducing food photography and styling classes. Our school has been working on diversifying its curriculum for years, branching out from its initial purpose. Today the CIA offers more classes tied to different parts of the culinary industry than any other school. Now starting this May, the CIA is offering education on how to operate cameras, manipulate lighting, and place food in the most photogenic ways. Instagram and other apps have led photography and styling to become a tremendous aspect of the industry today. Restaurants are beginning to adapt through redesigning to appeal to their diners taking photos, often by improving lighting, adding unique textural elements, or by developing more photogenic food and drinks. Dirty Bones, a restaurant in New York and London, is taking this idea a step further, by handing out free LED lights,
Some of Mansfield’s professional studio photos
a clip-on lens, and phone stands to customers starting this year, encouraging impromptu photo shoots as part of the dining experience. The CIA’s classes are being developed by two veterans
in the field, Kersti Bowser and Phil Mansfield. Bowser, a 2001 alumna of the CIA, has worked as a food stylist for nearly every Food Network star, and today runs a successful styling and catering operation. Phil Mansfield
photo courtesy: Phil Mansfield
is well known around the school as its in-house photographer and he also frequently shoots for cookbooks and architecture firms. They plan to introduce the program as electives this May. Keep an eye out in your course planner
for the new classes.
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LA PAPILLOTE
Reviews
The Cafeteria
The Amsterdam
BY: Valerie Goodrich, Reviewer
BY: Catherine Elsaesser, Staff Writer
photo courtesy: Hudson Valley Magazine
You don’t see it unless you’re looking for it. Tucked away on 58 Main St, New Paltz, NY lays the Hudson Valley’s trendiest and coziest coffeeshop. Black painted bricks with tall, red trimmed windows attract you into the contemporary looking building. Walk through the doors and you will see a spacious, lofted room filled with large, cushiony couches, antique tables, and mismatching lamps aesthetically placed throughout. Dark wood, exposed brick, copper ceilings, and a fireplace keep up the relaxing feel. Large paintings from local artists are hung proudly on the wall, and recycled chandeliers give light to even the darkest of corners. They sell guitars too, just in case you wanted a ukulele with your espresso. Once you are over telling yourself that you are the trendiest person ever for being here, walk up to the minimalistic coffee bar and order a “for here” latte with almond milk. Ask the nice barista for the wifi password, curl up on one of the couches (whichever one pulls you to it the most), and do your homework. If your homework is done, talk with your friend next to the window
that fills the place with sunlight. Cafeteria also allows you to bring a group of people. If it’s Friday, watch the live band that’s playing that night. Alright, alright. You don’t do lattes and almond milk isn’t for you. That’s more than okay, because Cafeteria has a lot of cool menu options. You have your usual variety of coffees: macchiatos, espressos, cappuccinos, cold brew, and cafe au lait. The coffee beans are Fair Trade Certified and organic and originate from countries such as Guatemala, Peru, Ethiopia, and Sumatra. Some of their “Favorite Flavors” are a chai latte and a white chocolate mocha. Under “House Specialties” you can find oreo cappuccinos, thin mint mocha, pumpkin spice lattes, and an almond joy lattes. “Iced Bevs” and “Coffee Shakes”, including cookies and cream and white chocolate, are perfect drinks for the last couple weeks of warm weather. Cafeteria also carries organic teas sourced from the company SerendipiTea. They offer the classic black, green, and white teas. I personally recommend the red velvet or apple spice. If you aren’t into coffees or teas at all,
no worries. Cafeteria also has hot chocolate, a wide variety of smoothies, and a vanilla bean lemonade. Maybe you’re taking out a person that you really want to impress, but you are also a broke college kid and can’t treat them to the fancy dinner that you know they deserve. Cafeteria has very reasonable prices, especially for the high quality product that they serve. A medium sized beverage here is usually around $3.50, and the entertainment is free. Also, a date at a coffee shop is way more relaxing than a fancy dinner. You’re welcome. Look at the time. You just spent two hours in a trendy coffee shop with all of the hipster SUNY New Paltz students listening to live jazz on a Sunday, or attending an open mic night on a Monday. Maybe you are finally getting around to reading “Food Inc.” like you said you would a year ago, or writing that paper for literature class. Whatever the case may be, you are definitely leaving with good vibes and a sense of urgency to come back again. Don’t worry, happens to me too.
Throughout my weekends of foodie adventures in Rhinebeck, all of the restaurants in the area have provided something unique, but were worthy of repeat dining experiences. The Amsterdam joins these contenders, even as a new restaurant to the area. Still in its first year of operation, this is a restaurant I would look forward to dining in again and again. The team of The Amsterdam boasts many graduates of the CIA in both the front and back of house, including James Beard Foundation Rising Star Chef-nominated Executive Chef Sara Lukasiewicz. Even on a Sunday evening, the dining room of the Amsterdam was bustling and hopefully the restaurant will enjoy this success for years to come. My friend and I arrived for our 6:15 dinner reservation to a beautifully decorated restaurant, complete with small touches from the friendly pumpkins decorating the front porch to the industrial lighting and Dutch paintings. The dining room is painted a muted gray color, but still has a warm, cozy feeling with the exposed wood tabletops, bench seating, fluffy pillows, and the open kitchen showcasing the back of house staff hard at work. We settled into a two-top towards the back of the dining room, taking in the scene of families eating out for Sunday supper and the plaid shirt-donned wait staff moving from table to table. I started the meal off with the Dutchess cocktail, consisting of vodka, cassis, thyme, lemon and soda water. The drink arrived in a tall, skinny glass with a lemon peel and thyme sprig garnish, and was bright and refreshing without being too sweet. My dining companion ordered
a mocktail, which arrived as a fruity combination of kiwi, melon and lime flavors. We decided to share the cheese board as an appetizer, which came with a selection of five cheeses, rhubarb jam, house-made granola, fennel compote, and grilled slices of crusty bread. The fennel compote was surprisingly delicious, transforming this vegetable from its typical preparations and developing a totally new flavor that was different from its characteristic licorice flavor. For entrees, my friend decided on the short rib special, which came atop yukon gold mashed potatoes with sautéed kale and mushrooms. The dish was rich and fall-off-the-bone tender. I chose the duck confit and Parisienne squash gnocchi. This dish came with sautéed mushrooms, roasted kabocha squash and a brandy cream. The confit was deliciously crisp, and the lemon zest garnish added brightness to the hearty fall dish. The Amsterdam had many tempting desserts on the menu, but we were very full from the generous portions of our entrees. There was a goat cheese cheesecake special that sounded delicious, but hopefully this dessert will be around the next time I dine at The Amsterdam. Overall, I loved the atmosphere and food at The Amsterdam. The staff was knowledgeable and friendly, even with our ticket time being a little longer than expected. The dining experience was memorable, and I wish the CIA alumni-filled team luck with the rest of their first year of operations.
photo courtesy: Catherine Elsaesser
October 20, 2017
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LA PAPILLOTE
Graduation
AOS Graduating Class of October 20, 2017
Culinary Arts Group 1 Sang Kyn Han, Hanyoung Youn, Jinyeub Lee, Caroline Rathnam
Culinary Arts Group 2 Front Row: Sevin Kim, Grayson Wamack, Jiyoung Kim Back Row: Minyong Park, Hang Kwon, Jungyune Bae
Culinary Arts Group 3 Front Row: Amber E. Nolen, Nadeem Azes, Kate Provoly, Miriam Bernal Back Row: Joseph Cardenas, Daniel Goodridge, Jorge H. Argolo, Chris Bortosh, Jong Hyun Choi
Baking & Pastry Group Front Row: Jennifer Rice, Haylee Stephens, Amanda Marcelle, Stacy Flores, Olivia Pilgrom, Martha Figueroa, Veada Lopez Back Row: Andy Ortega, Nicole Cabral, Samantha Czumak, Samantha Martin, Taylor Chlebana, Emma Blasczak, Woosong Kim, Emily Coderre
October 20, 2017
Graduation
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AOS Graduation Speaker: Claus Meyer Restaurateur and Entrepreneur
BY: Shelly Loveland, CIA Staff Contributor
photo courtesy: Leslie Jennings
Library Learning Conrad N. Hilton Commons: Library Monday-Thursday: 7:00am- Monday-Thursday: 8:00am11:00pm 11:00pm Friday: 8:00am-7:00pm Friday: 7:00am-7:00pm Saturday: 10:00am-5:00pm Saturday: 10:00am-5:00pm Sunday: Noon-9:00pm Sunday: Noon-11:00pm Campus Store Video Center Hours: Monday-Thursday: 8:30am- Monday: 10:00am-4:00pm Tuesday-Friday: 10:00am10:00pm 6:00pm Friday: 8:30am-5:00pm Saturday: 11:00am-6:00pm Saturday: Noon-5:00pm Sunday: Noon-8:00pm
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Claus Meyer is a worldrenowned restaurateur and culinary entrepreneur. He is the mind behind the New Nordic Cuisine movement and the co-founder of Noma, the Copenhagen, Denmark restaurant that has been rated number one on the World’s 50 Best Restaurants list four times. Chef Meyer co-owns several restaurants, including Studio in Copenhagen, Denmark—which received a Michelin star just four months after opening—as well as several bakeries and delis, a catering business, an orchard, a vinegar brewery, a coffee roastery, and a cooking school for kids and adults. He has hosted several Danish and international TV cooking shows and written numerous cookbooks. In addition, Chef Meyer is an associate professor in the Department of Food Science at the University of Copenhagen and an adjunct professor at the Institute for Corporate Social Re-
sponsibility at the Copenhagen Business School. In 2015, he was appointed a Social Impact Fellow at the Hass School of Business, University of California, Berkeley. Chef Meyer relocated to New York City, where he established the Great Northern Food Hall, which is rooted in the New Nordic Cooking philosophy; and Agern, a Michelin one-star restaurant. Both are located at Grand Central Terminal. He also launched an artisanal grain, dairy, coffee, and meat production program. In Williamsburg, Brooklyn, Chef Meyer opened Meyers Bageri, a small bakery that is an outpost of his Copenhagen bakery chain. And together with corestaurateur Fredrik Berselius, he opened Norman, a contemporary all-day restaurant located at the A/D/O working space for designers on Norman Avenue in Greenpoint, Brooklyn.
Hours of Operation
Mailroom Monday-Friday: 8:00am5:00pm Saturday: 9:00am-1:00pm (closed holiday weekends) Copy Center Monday-Friday: 8:00am5:30pm
Apple Pie Monday-Friday: 7:30am-5:00pm (when classes are in session)
The Egg Monday-Thursday: 11:00am-11:00pm Friday: 11:00am-10:30pm Saturday: 9:00am-10:30pm Sunday: 9:00am-11:00pm
Student Recreation Center Monday-Thursday: 7:00amMidnight Friday: 7:00am-10:00pm Saturday: 9:00am-10:00pm Sunday: 9:00am-11:00pm
2600 South Road (Route 9) 845.454.3505 Poughkeepsie Plaza (Near Marshall’s)
Believing in food as a driver for social change, in 2010 Chef Meyer established the Melting Pot Foundation. The organization runs a cooking school project in Danish prisons, helping incarcerated people to live a life without crime. In 2013, Melting Pot established a cooking school in La Paz, Bolivia that provides culinary education to impoverished Bolivians. That same year, Chef Meyer launched Gustu, a gourmet restaurant in La Paz that was voted 17th best on Latin America’s 50 Best Restaurants list. The Melting Pot Foundation USA next opened the Brownsville Community Culinary Center in Brownsville, Brooklyn. The Center, which includes a culinary school, neighborhood eatery, bakery, and community center, provides tuition-free culinary training for neighborhood residents.
Pool Hours Monday-Thursday: 10:00am-1:00pm & 3:00pm-10:00pm Friday: 10:00am-1:00pm & 3:00pm-7:00pm Saturday & Sunday: Noon-7:00pm Resident Life Monday-Friday: 7:00am-5:00pm
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LA PAPILLOTE
Local
Sundays Are For Farmers Markets BY: Ashleigh Lyons, Contributor
A note for my fellow CIA students who have not ventured up to Rhinebeck; Drop what you’re doing right now and please take a trip. Rhinebeck is a town full of quaint family owned restaurants and bistros, yoga studios and candy shops. Besides the fact that it’s the smallest town I’ve ever driven through, the places all crammed into it are worth the twenty minute drive from The Culinary Institute of America. Not to mention there’s a farmers market on Sundays from ten to two o’clock rain or shine. There, you can walk up to so many different vendors, all itchin for you to buy their goods. Rhinebeck’s farmersmarket is packed with appealing tempting vendors and you will definitely not leave without buying anything. Fresh produce, fresh fish, real tacos with homemade tortillas, lovely vibrant flower bouquets, local farm fresh eggs, and all sorts of mouth watering baked goods. This place was heaven for me. Wandering around with all the different aromas filling your nose, the colors of the heirloom tomatoes, the beet bunches, or the ripe honey crisp apples were all so inviting. What urged me to go to a farmers market with no cash unfortunately, I’m not quite sure but I did. Maybe this is a good thing because I would have spent every penny I had on the lemon drizzle sponge cakes made by Tivoli Bread and Baking. The limited booths that do accept cash is the one that sells t-shirts, the guy that sells honey and a handful more. Now before you go to this don’t expect a whole street filled with people roaming around. Its small. All booths crammed into one small parking lot. But the size of a farmers market doesn’t matter if everything they sell is spectacular. At the end of the day, all that matters is the quality of the product. And let me say all the vendors there have high standards. Because they care. Now if you’re ever attending a farmers market you know to bring cash, and also that every single person who works there will treat you like family. They are all so passionate about
River Garden Flower Farm at the Rhinebeck Farmers Market photo courtesy: Madelyne Woeste
the products they put forth and what they’re selling. And as a baker, having someone sell you products that they believe in. Products they hand make themselves, buying their passion to put into your food, is honestly the most pure thing. Buying things face to face rather than at a supermarket, buying what you’re going to consume, what you’re going to digest is so much more wholesome when they treat you like their family. Rhinebeck farmers
market participating vendors include: Aba’s Falafel, Beth’s Farm Kitchen, Breezy Hill orchard, Chaseholm Farm, Dancing Ewe Farm, DArragh Studio Kombucha, Destino Taco, Ellen’s Country Kitchen(prepared foods only), From the ground Brewery, Harvest Spirits Farm Distillery, Hawthorne Valley Farm, Highland Farm, Hudson Valley Foie Gras, Ironwood Farm, Jacuterie, Kesicke Farm Cattle, Letterbox Farm Collective, Living Edge Designs, Lynnhaven, Mead Or-
chards, Migliorelli Farm, Northern Dutchess Botanical Gardens, Our Daily Bread, Perry Hill Farm, Perry’s Pickles, Pura Vida Fisheries, Quattro’s Poultry and Game Farms, Raven & Boar, River Ridge Dyeworks, Rock City Farm, The River Garden, Sky Farm, Taliaferro Farms, Tivoli Bread and Baking, Tousey Farm & Winer, Whitecliff Vineyard, and Wild Hive Farm. The address of the market is 61 E Market St, Rhinebeck, NY 12572. Start planning your
next Sunday trip up. Bring reusable bags to pack up all your purchases. And do not forget to bring cash. You will regret it.