Volume 38, No. 2
February 10, 2017
La
Papillote
Aphrodisiacs
BY: Francesca Zani, AOS Culinary
Most of us are like -minded when it comes to the topic of aphrodisiacs, especially with Valentine’s Day. Many of us can’t help but snicker at the thought of their purpose. Aphrodisiacs can be anything from fruits and spices, or liquors that evoke sensual feelings presenting a fun diversion for adult couples. There are many interesting assertions surrounding this topic including the nutritious benefits aphrodisiacs offer and their potentially controversial side stories. It is a common theory that if a food looks like a body part or an organ, then it must be beneficial to that body part. The Culinary Institute of America’s Chef and culinary science professor Jonathan Zearfoss has studied aphrodisiacs, and in his work mentioned a theory called the Doctrine of Signatures. This theory contends that if the plant or herb resembles human body parts or organs, then it will positively help that particular body part or organ. CIA Chef William Philips notes how avocados look like the cervix of a female and therefore assist in the menstrual
cycle along with the antioxidant Vitamin E. Upon further research, the idea of avocados improving reproductive health dates back to the time of the ancient Aztecs. As for males, oysters are alleged to be of assistance in reproductive organs. Chef Phillips also mentioned zinc and oysters being good for men’s sexual health. Zinc was used as a supplement for male testosterone levels. Chef Zearfoss stated that because oysters are usually eaten alive, the idea of “taking on a life force” may be a factor in why live oysters are seen as something more than just food. Saffron, the vibrant orange culinary delicacy, is also essential for libido levels or sex drive. You can steep it in tea , or do as Queen Cleopatra did, which was to bathe in it. There are also potentially harmful foods consumed for the perks that aphrodisiacs offer. Many of us in the culinary industry have heard about Fugu, the tetrodotoxin poison containing blowfish of Japan. This malignant fish is considered an aphrodisiac because of the mouth numbing sensation it gives diners. Yarsagumba, which can be found in Nepal, is a fungus
Chocolate, bananas and nuts are common aphrodisiacs. photo courtesy: Francesca Zani
that grows on caterpillars and is known for its amorous effects. Studies in Chinese medicine tell us that the fungus is boiled and
consumed in forms of hot tea or soup. There is controversy on the subject of aphrodisiacs, how-
ever. Chocolate is probably one of the best regarded to eat on any given day. Valentine’s Day is this month. It is interesting to bring about a controversial perspective some have on the topic. On the contrary of aphrodisiac history with chocolate, the 2006 New York Times article “The Claim: Chocolate is an Aphrodisiac”, written by Anahad O’Connor, found this to be a false assertion. Although chocolate contains tryptophan which induces serotonin and phenylethylamine - a chemical released when you’re in love - there is not nearly enough of either of these chemicals in chocolate for it to have an effect on the body. This idea relates to other items people consume like spices and herbs. Although many herbs and spices offer health benefits, they must be consumed in large amounts for them to have an effect on the body. Don’t let this research put a damper on your fun, but it’s good food for thought next time you consider eating colossal amounts of chocolate while watching romantic 1980’s movies.
Spent Grains
BY: Joe Piiccirillo, BPS Applied Food Studies
After a long day of cooking, sitting in class, memorizing recipes, or studying, many students seek repose in The Egg. Some may want to enjoy a cold beer and unwind. In Brooklyn Brewery’s state-of-the-art brewing facilities and classroom, Head Brewer Hutch Kugeman educates students in the art, science, and history of one of the world’s most ancient beverages. Beer has four key ingredients grains (malt), water, hops, and yeast. Together these components give the beverage its iconic flavor, aroma, and pleasant effervescence many people have grown to love. The grains stand out in the brewing procedure. Grains allow the wort (unfermented beer) to begin the
fermentation process by providing necessary sugars to feed the yeast and determine the final flavor of the finished product. After mashing is complete, the remaining grains are strained out of the wort and are often thrown out. This generation of large amounts of spent grains as byproduct has become a major disposal problem in the brewing industry. Fortunately, as sustainability movements grow in popularity, brewers have grown more resourceful. Some have reached out to local farmers in their area who can use spent grains as cattle feed. Beyond animal feed, brewer’s waste makes an excellent nitrogen-rich component in any sort of composting system. Spent grains are a treasure in their own right. They are
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“Campus”
“Feature”
photo courtesy: Joe Piccirillo
Papillote
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CIA News
Spent grains in various stages of processing.
Black History Month
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CENTER SPREAD
“Center Spread” Forming S.A.A.C.
P 6-7
“Entertainment”
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Puzzles & Comics
BACK PAGE
P 12
“Sustainability” Seafood Trends
LA PAPILLOTE
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Editorial
Papillote
THE NEWSPAPER OF THE CULINARY INSTITUTE OF AMERICA SINCE 1979
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February 10, 2017
PUBLISHER The Student Affairs Division EDITOR-IN-CHIEF Dan Salisbury LAYOUT EDITOR Alexis Brown ADVERTISING MANAGER Sue Haug CONTRIBUTORS Fancesca Zani Joe Piccirillo Ezra Eichelberger Jeff Levine Alex Cutler Dan Salisbury Khori Eubanks Christian Duncan Mike Feist
Ethan Reynolds Frank Risole Alex Talbot Shelly Loveland Leslie Jennings Phil Mansfield Victor Samuel April Johnson Deja Burrows
COMPACT
La Papillote, the Newspaper of the Culinary Institute of America since 1979, is dedicated to respecting the mission, history and values of the college. Our primary purpose is to report the news of the institution to the students and other members of the campus community. We examine contemporary issues of the food service and hospitality industries to inform, challenge and develop the minds of students as they aspire to leadership roles in their chosen profession. We reflect the diverse views of the student body and provide a forum for civil discussion. Above all else, in our reporting and features, we strive to be accurate, fair, unbiased and free from distortion. Whenever we portray someone in a negative light or accuse a party of wrongdoing, we will make a real effort to obtain and print a response from that subject in the same issue. We will not plagiarize. Articles and features are expected to be independent assessments on a topic by an individual author. The views expressed are those of the author’s alone. They do not necessarily represent the views or opinions of La Papillote or its staff, nor do they represent the views or opinions of The Culinary Institute of America, or any entity of, or affiliated with the college.
FOOD REVIEW POLICY
As a valuable part of our content, La Papillote offers restaurant reviews. It is in the best interest of our readership to be honest, accurate and fair in providing information and judgment on these establishments. Reviews will reflect the writer’s opinions about the menu, atmosphere and service. Whenever possible, reviews will be conducted with complete anonymity. Permission from the restaurants will not be secured prior. All issues of La Papillote are available online, therefore, the critiqued restaurants, along with the public, can view editions at anytime on the web.
From the Editor’s Desk February 10, 2017 Fellow Students, It is an honor to be named the new Editor-in-Chief of La Papillote. I am extremely excited to continue to bring our readers up-to-date with what’s happening within our school and our surrounding communities. Furthermore, I’m looking forward to sharing industry-relevant themes and issues which affect us all as young professionals in the restaurant and hospitality industry. One of my goals as Editor-in-Chief is to create a more open and collaborative environment between the many clubs that we have here on campus; I strongly believe that if the student body can unite together, than the possibilities are endless. For this issue, we’ve paired up writers with members of the CIA Photography Club, and we’re looking to establish a strong relationship with the Digital Media Club as well. There’s an excellent poem written by Christian Duncan of the Black Culinarian Society on page four, and I’d love to continue to highlight the incredible creativity and literary prowess of our students in future issues! I want to thank the amazingly supportive CIA staff and faculty for spending countless extra hours devoting their time and energy giving me their guidance. I want to thank Kevin Markey, our current SGA president, for lending his experience as previous Editor-in-Chief in helping me navigate through this transitory process. Lastly, I want to thank you, the reader, for continuing to pick up a copy of La Papillote block after block. Thank you, Dan Salisbury
EDITORIAL POLICY
La Papillote welcomes submissions of work from students, chefs and outside professionals. The decision to print is based on the following criteria: quality of content, value of content to our readers, quality of writing, originality, objectivity, layout, and verifiability. Besides the Editor, there are two Copy Editors who read over submitted articles. Major changes will be reported to writers before the issue goes out. However, any other changes that need to be edited close to the deadline may or may not be forwarded to writers. This is due to the fact of lack of time. It is asked for writers to trust the Editor’s decision at this point during layout. Please direct all submissions to: Dan Salisbury, Editor-In-Chief at lapapillote.culinary@gmail.com.
LETTERS POLICY
Letters to the Editor may not exceed 250 words and they should be exclusive to La Papillote. In selecting letters, the editors try to present a balance of views. We reserve the right to edit for space, clarity, civility and accuracy, and will send you the edited version before publication. If your letter is selected, we will try to reach you in necessary cases to verify the letter’s authenticity, to clarify your motivation, to clarify your relation to the subject for our readers or to verify facts or sources. Letters to the Editor may be sent to lapapillote.culinary@gmail.com with “Letter to the Editor - For Publication” in the subject line. Please include your phone number.
Dan Salisbury Editor-in-Chief
Alexis Brown Layout Editor
Alison Sprong Copy Editor
Joe Piccirillo Social Media Editor
NOTICE OF NON-DISCRIMINATION
The Culinary Institute of America (CIA) is an Equal Opportunity Employer committed to the principle of equal opportunity in education and employment. The CIA does not discriminate against individuals on the basis of race, color, sex, sexual orientation, gender identity, religion, disability, age, genetic information, marital status, veteran status, ancestry, national or ethnic origin, or any other protected group or classification under federal or state laws. The following persons have been designated to handle inquiries regarding the non-discrimination policies: Civil Rights Compliance Officers Joe Morano HR Director-Faculty Relations
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February 10, 2017
Campus
Skills USA
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BY: Ezra Eichelberger, Staff Contributor
The CIA chapter of SkillsUSA is revitalizing and looking for members! We have been active intermittently for years and it’s time to reunite. In 2014, the CIA took the Gold, and in 2015, the Bronze medal, both in Restaurant Service at the national competition. New York State contests will be held March 25, 2017 at Alfred State College. Nationals will be held the week of June 20, 2017 in Louisville, KY. The deadline for applications to state is Feb 22, 2017, so apply today! We will hold contests on campus in the three areas: culinary, baking, and restaurant service. We will need to raise money for transportation
and housing for the students. Chef McCue will be a judge in Culinary Arts, Secondary Division this year and Chef Nitahara will assist in training. If interested in joining us this year, whether you want to compete or assist the competitors, become a member at www. SkillUSA.org and contact Ezra Eichelberger at e_eichel@culinary.edu.
photo courtesy: www.skillsusatx.org
Campus Newsletter
BY: Jeff Levine, Staff Contributor
CIA PRESIDENT ONCE AGAIN AMONG MOST POWERFUL PEOPLE IN FOOD For the third time in the last four years, CIA President Tim Ryan has been named to the Nation’s Restaurant News “NRN 50 Power List” as one of the most important people in the food and hospitality industry for 2017. The NRN 50 Power List recognizes the people leading and shaping the food world. The feature about Dr. Ryan in the special issue of the magazine says, “For 15 years, Tim Ryan has led what is widely considered the country’s premier culinary school—The Culinary Institute of America—and has solidified its reputation as a leading force in the evolving food landscape. . . [The CIA] has also prepared thousands of students for the broad career opportunities available to the modern chef. Realizing that chefs do more at restaurants than cook, Ryan and his staff have expanded instruction to include such diverse topics as culinary science, elder
care, technology and business.” In addition to his recognition from Nation’s Restaurant News, Dr. Ryan has received awards and honors from almost every segment of the food world during his career, including Chef of the Year from the American Culinary Federation, induction into Who’s Who in Food & Beverage in America from the James Beard Foundation, Lifetime Achievement Award from the Foodservice Educators Network International, Silver Plate Award from the International Foodservice Manufacturers Association, and Entrepreneur of the Year from the International Association of Culinary Professionals. GATEHOUSE OPENS AT GREYSTONE CAMPUS The CIA at Greystone opened Gatehouse Restaurant on Saturday, January 21. The new restaurant is located at the Greystone Cellars’ original gatehouse, offering a table d’hotestyle menu and service. The restaurant is the capstone course for CIA students at the California campus.
It is a culmination of two years of rigorous culinary, baking and pastry, hospitality, and beverage management instruction. In this classroom open to the public, students create and serve contemporary dishes in a refined, yet casual dining room. Menu items are prepared with the freshest regional ingredients, including items from the CIA’s own farms and herb gardens. Both lunch and dinner offer a prix-fixe menu with a variety of options. Lunch is $32 (three courses) or $42 (four courses), and dinner is $39 (three courses) or $49 (four courses). Gatehouse Restaurant is open Tuesday through Saturday for lunch and dinner. Reservations can be made by calling 707-9672300 or by visiting www.ciagatehouserestaurant.com. CIA AT COPIA GRAND OPENING The CIA at Copia, the ultimate destination in California’s Napa Valley for exploring, experiencing, and enjoying the world of food and wine, invites visitors to attend its Grand Open-
ing Celebration on Saturday, February 18 and Sunday, February 19. During the celebration weekend, guests can experience everything CIA at Copia currently has to offer, including cooking classes, book signings with CIA alumni, chef demonstrations, food-related film shorts, and wine tastings. Reservations are also being accepted for The Restaurant at CIA Copia. Call 707-9672555 or reserve online. WORLD’S #1 CHEF PRAISES CIA Osteria Francescana in Modena, Italy was designated the best restaurant in the world in the World’s 50 Best Restaurants awards for 2016. Chef-owner Massimo Bottura was recently profiled by The Daily Meal. During the interview, he was asked about the state of gastronomy in America. His response as to why the American food culture is on the upswing is, “The Culinary Institute of America is one of the best schools I have ever seen in the world.”
Chef Bottura visited the CIA’s New York campus in 2014, where he lectured, met with students, and held a book signing. “JACKIE ROBINSON OF CULINARY ARTS” RELEASES AUTOBIOGRAPHY Jefferson Evans ’47 is considered the Jackie Robinson of culinary arts. He was a student at the CIA’s original campus in New Haven, CT before Robinson played his first game with the Brooklyn Dodgers. Now 93 years old, he recently released his autobiography. In it, he talks about his life and career, and of being among the first students at the new CIA in 1946 and college’s first African-American graduate—after being denied entrance into Yale University. The self-published book, Why Do People Treat Me The Way They Do?, has a foreword by Alex Askew ’89, president of BCA Global and founder of the Black Culinarian Association while a CIA student.
Photos from left to right: CIA President Tim Ryan, Gatehouse at Greystone, CIA at Copia, Chef Massimo Bottura, Jefferson Evans ‘47 CIA’s first African-American graduate photo courtesy: Phil Mansfield, Victor Samuel
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LA PAPILLOTE
Features
MLK Day at the CIA
BCS Celebrates February
BY: Khori Eubanks, AOS Culinary
In the United States, only ten holidays on the calendar are considered federal holidays. One of these ten is the birthday of Dr. Martin Luther King Jr. As a man who changed the course of history in America, he is more than worthy of this day. America takes this day as one of remembrance and celebration for a man whose bravery and leadership altered not only social, but political freedom for African American citizens of The United States. At The Culinary Institute of America we have a more complicated academic calendar than most collegiate institutions. After having class on Dr. Martin Luther King Day, which many students are not accustomed to, the student body had many questions. Based on interviews with a diverse population of students, many felt that not having the day off was odd, and that it should be a national holiday here at the CIA. Interestingly enough, the students that attended private educational institutions prior to coming to the CIA were used to this, yet those who attended public intuitions prior were astonished. As for international students, those interviewed said that no matter the type of school, private or public, a legend is to be celebrated by all by taking the day off - for example, Gandhi Day in India. When the students were asked if they knew why the CIA does not have this day off, many did not know. The reasoning is a lot more complicated than one would think.
BY: Dan Salisbury, BPS Applied Food Studies
In honor of Black History Month, The Black Culinarian Society will be showcasing recipes from a few of their own members each week at The Egg. Working in conjunction with Restaurant Associates, these special dishes will be available for purchase through the Kiosks. “We have a lot of diversity within our club” says BCS president Christian Duncan, “and we wanted to highlight the bohemian, caribbean, and south-
ern black cuisine that our members are familiar with”. Duncan recently demonstrated how to make her grandmother’s smothered pork chop dish, which her grandmother taught her this past Christmas. Duncan mentioned, “I’m happy to share these dishes with the rest of the student body.” Look for a demo of a special dish each Wednesday during the entire month of February at The Egg.
photo courtesy: www.citysightsdc.com
Here at the CIA, we have classes coming in every three weeks, 16 start dates a year. With a three-week period equal to one block and one block averaging 14 days in each class, (sometimes 13) missing even one of those days could throw everything off. The calendar is fragile. It is understandable that the school attempts to squeeze in as much education in such a short timeframe. There is an entire board, the Calendar Committee, that is dedicated to creating the Academic Calendar. They must choose which days to have off; Martin Luther King Day was not one of those days. Martin Luther King Day was on Monday, January 16th this year and is always during the mid-January time period. This holiday is immediately after winter break and also during what we call a “13-day block.” This is one of the shorter blocks versus the regular 14-day blocks. Having Martin Luther King Day off would have meant a 12-day block, and to the Calendar Committee, it was not worth taking that education from the students. The timing would have been off if the school would haved moved the down day to coincide with Dr. Martin Luther King Day. The following Monday was used as a down day for the students as well as a move-in day for a new block. Martin Luther King Day was in the middle of a block, unfortunately just one week short. January, with the winter break, is very hard to get another day off in and
it seems that if Dr. Kings’ birthday fell in March (a less active month) we may have had the day off. Despite the fact that classes had to be attended on that day, many felt like the holiday should have been represented with more effort here on campus, especially with classes in session. It could have been used to remember and honor Dr. King, and what he has done for so many. Although there are students here who have never celebrated or paid much attention to the holiday, there are those who have traditions to commemorate on this day. Also, the international students who come here not only to master culinary and baking arts but to learn the culture and history of this country could have been enlightened on a man whose life was spent making America the more equal land that it is today. While there were indeed events on campus to celebrate, numerous students were unaware of the events even happening. The student body expressed wanting more recognition on the campus, sessions throughout the day that teach about his legacy, and possibly liberal arts displays that reflect what Dr. King means to students through their personal artistic outlets. These are all great alternatives that, in the future, could bring great opportunities to the school and the students an opportunity to learn more about Martin Luther King, the iconic figure that we celebrate.
Black History Month Poems
BY: Christian Duncan, AOS Culinary
UNTITLED With the fluidity of Langston Hughes and that verbal POWER like Angelou The strength of the King to knock out this racial thing we have to rise to fight against our demise Trumping fear let them know “WE HERE” We may think they’ll come from the back of the clock but it is us who must step up to the block they’re done, marched on their civil rights restored & won.
Our time is NOW Generation Y & on! Long live him, but there ain’t no second coming of the King It’s our time to march on, demonstrate & sing Peacefully, non violently “with the certainty of tides” We’ll stand together, colourfully and forever We’ll lean on each other, over come & yes Ms. Maya ma’am.... We’ll Rise
WOKE a haiku Know the time is now we musn’t bow down to fear we woke & ready Top: AOS Culinary student Christian Duncan stands with her dish. Bottom: Duncan’s smothered pork chop. photo courtesy: Canieka Fleming, Dan Salisbury
ON CAMPUS
February 10, 2017
Facts and Food in a Post-Truth World
BY: Mike Feist, BBA Food Business Management
“Post-truth” is the Oxford Dictionary’s word of the year. We have major politicians that believe climate change is a hoax and vaccines cause autism, despite mountains of scientific evidence. Our current president’s administration started their first day in office claiming this inauguration as the largest ever, despite aerial images and transit records showing otherwise. The administration later defended the claim, saying “sometimes we can disagree with the facts.” It’s not just a problem here – two days later the new UK Prime Minister kept news of a nuclear missile test failure from the House of Commons and the public. Her defense secretary even said the government “successfully concluded” the operation. Lies, secrets, and the rejection of evidence-based statements are abundant in politics. But this isn’t just the routine “most politicians lie”; the amount of blatant, easily refutable falsehoods is unprecedented. The term “alternative facts” has taken center stage in much of our news reporting and political debate since Brexit – the United Kingdom’s proposed secession from the European Union – and in the US presidential election. Information sources once deemed reliable by the mainstream are increasingly rejected, and the number of “fake news” websites is on the rise. People are largely ignoring facts and instead gravitating towards repeated emotional ideas and personal beliefs. In George Orwell’s dystopian novel Nineteen EightyFour, alternative facts are the backbone of government publications. The fictional government’s
Grains cont’d
rich in nutrients such as protein and fiber, and acquire a distinct sweet and nutty flavor from the brewing process. Because of this, chefs and home cooks alike are adapting to the culinary uses of spent grains. Here are the CIA, Chef George Shannon, the chef instructor of the breakfast class at The Egg, has done extensive research in the utilization of these grains. Chef Shannon has been working with Hutch at the school’s brewery and is trying to utilize as much of the grains as possible. Once Chef receives the grains, he begins to process them into flour. First, the grains are all laid on sheet trays, about ½ inch layer per tray. Then they go into an oven, set at the temperature 225F. Over the course of a few hours, the low heat will dry all the moisture out as well as deepening the flavor of the finished product. During this process, it is imperative that the grains are rotated on to new sheet trays, about every 30 minutes. This ensures
Features
secret Thought Police surveil everyone and punish dissenting speech, actions, and thoughts. The Ministry of Truth is responsible for creating propaganda, doctoring papers and changing historical records. Orwell’s book, published in 1949, has recently seen a record surge in sales, becoming the top-selling book on Amazon and prompting a reprint of 75,000 copies (which is almost as many books as are found in our Conrad Hilton Library). Obviously, a great many people are comparing our current times and foreseeable future to that of Orwell’s fictional world. Statistics lost public credibility especially after Trump was announced as the election winner, as both the media and the public had become dependent on polling data to determine who would win. Those outlets disseminated their absolute certaintythat Clinton would win. Though the details behind the poll flaws are complex and vary by poll, the largest flaw may be media and public dependence on poll data. Elections are not science: you simply cannot predict the results with exact detail. A false prediction is not a reason to start losing faith in statistics. This premise applies similarly to the fields of food science and nutrition. As in politics and media, the culinary industry sees a large amount of misinformation, disinformation (intentionally misleading or false claims) and a disregard of scientific evidence. For example, how people receive diet and nutritional advice, how they determine foods’ safety (such as genetically engineered foods), and how they view economically and environmentally sustain-
able agriculture. Some of these authors take advantage of ideas, like the conceptions that corporations hide data, fund (and thus influence) research, bribe doctors, and lobby Congress. Many alternative lifestyle organizations use partial truths to convince people to turn to unproven herbs and medicines, nutritional claims, or agricultural techniques. They can play on public fears over published data to allow emotion to become dominant in determining personal beliefs. GMOs may be deadly. Gluten may make everyone sick. Coffee may be bad for you. The problems and solutions in politics, health, nutrition, and food safety are all similar in that emotion-based sources tell you that terrorists, chemicals, toxins, and all things foreign are present, and they must be kept out, so detox, build walls, eat natural, and eat clean. Emotional ideas have already impacted our industry in huge ways, turning opinions on biotechnology like genetically modified foods and herbicides like glyphosate. The latter reduces the use of soil tillage and therefore reduces erosion and runoff. It has also passed the EPA’s and other national institutes’ risk assessments many times. Genetically modified foods are among the most studied, and the process reduces environmental damage, increases the food supply, can prevent allergic reactions, and cansave lives through nutrient benefits. As an example, golden rice is biofortified with beta-carotene, which reduces vitamin A deficiency, the leading cause of preventable childhood blindness, affecting millions of people. Marketing plays a huge
role in disinformation, with NonGMO Project labels becoming ever more popular. Similarly, “natural” labels are also everywhere, though any food could be labeled natural: there aren’t any restrictions on the term’s use. There are restrictions on the term “organic” in the United States, but the US’s organic program is flawed, with organic farms requiring significantly more land and resources than conventional farms to produce the same amount of food. Organic farms have a larger carbon footprint and larger environmental effects. Marketing often targets pesticides as a reason to buy organic, and consumers buy into it. However, both organic and conventional farms use a variety of synthetic and natural pesticides. Some natural pesticides, such as copper sulfate, are more harmful to the environment, and many of the synthetic pesticides are designed to quickly break down into simple substances. The USDA prohibits use of antibiotics, which can be an ethical problem regarding the treatment of animals. Overall, organic products are more expensive and bring no demonstrable benefits to food quality, nutritional content, the environment, or the economy. Another food industry example is truffle oil. Nearly all of what can be found on truffle oil is opinion-based. For example, Joe Bastianich said in 2014 that “it has nothing to do with truffles”, “it’s made by perfumists”, and that “it’s bad for you.” Just to be clear: many brands of truffle oil are flavored with pieces of truffle, producers of perfume do not make truffle oil, and no, truffle oil is not hazardous to human health. Contrary to claims pub-
even drying and safeguards the grains from sticking to the tray as moisture is released. After drying is complete, the grains are stone ground into flour in a grinder. The coarseness of the flour varies from coarse to fine, depending on the final usage. Now that flour is now ready to use and appears in many of Chef Shannon’s breakfast dishes. From waffles to muffins, spent grains are fortifying these dishes with nutrients, and most importantly, flavor. Chef Shannon is continuing to find new and innovative ways to provide these grains with an afterlife. Although Chef Shannon is doing good things with our brewery’s spent grains, we are still disposing, on average, about 500-600 pounds a week. Hutch is willing to give grains to students. Now that you are aware of the benefits and many uses of spent grains, stop on by the brewing facility a grab a few pounds of grains, and discover your own new way to repurpose them.
Spent grains are a by-product of the brewing process.
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lished in The Alternative Daily, the WHO’s JECFA report recognizes truffle oil as safe. Why does this matter to a CIA student? As a reader, choose your information sources carefully. For determining the truth, the best course is to read multiple sources, all with no apparent bias, transparent and appropriate motives for reporting, detailed and reasonable methodologies, authoritative authors and publishers, and a peer review process (like review boards for scientific journals or editors for books, newspapers, and some online media). Maintain skepticism and rigorously challenge even the most basic of claims to see how they stack up against robust evidence. Regardless of what degree program you may be in, you are going to be affecting what and how people think about food. You may come to be interviewed or asked to write a piece, but even if you don’t, your menu and philosophy as a chef or business owner will speak to the public.
photo courtesy: nuhealthnews. com
photo courtesy: Joe Piccirillo
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LA PAPILLOTE
Features
Nikkei Cuisine: Peruvian Ingredients with Japanese Flair
BY: Ethan Reynolds, AOS Culinary
Two countries, hundreds of miles apart and yet drawing their sustenance from the same waters century after century; it seems only natural that their respective flavors, when combined, would be a breathtaking match. The word “Nikkei” refers to the fusion cuisine of Japan and Peru. This cuisine started to form its roots after a crew of Japanese farmers migrated to Peru in search of work in the late 1800’s. The farmers brought their culinary traditions with them to the new world, and the two cultures clashed in the most delicious way. Both countries share a consuming adoration for seafood of all kinds, and who would blame them, being situated on the coast of one of the most teeming swathes of ocean in the world? Both countries also have a large amount of farmland being used to produce rice. However, this is where the obvious similarities between the two cuisines end. The question is, how did the Japanese immigrants levy their cooking techniques to turn the foreign food available to them in Peru into something completely new? The perfect example lies in one dish, the flagship of Nikkei cuisine: tiradito. Conceived by the late chef Toshiro Konishi of Mesa 18 in Lima, tiradito boasts Peruvian ingredients with an unmistakable Japanese undertone; in it you can taste the wonder and awe of the Japanese settlers when they came to the New World over
a century ago. Tiradito is composed of raw fish sliced very thin, then covered with a spicy, citrusinfused sauce and served with Peruvian corn and sweet potatoes. In this dish one can distinguish echoes of both cuisines; raw, thinly sliced fish is suggestive of sashimi, whereas its combination with a zingy, intensely flavored sauce evokes the aromatic nature of ceviche. I spoke to my friend and fellow classmate Alejandra Harmsen, a fourth-term Baking and Pastry student, about her perception of Nikkei cuisine. Alejandra was born in Lima, Peru, where she lived for 24 years before coming to the CIA. I asked what Peruvian food meant to her. “Food is something that we are very proud of, because of the products that we have – we have amazing products... no GMO’s, nothing too processed. Every plate is very creative,” she said. I was also curious about the impact of the Japanese diaspora on Peruvian culture and cuisine, and so I asked Alejandra about the pervasiveness of Japanese cuisine in her hometown. She said that Japanese restaurants controlled a large percentage of the restaurant market in Lima, and that those restaurants usually incorporated Peruvian elements into their dishes. The Peruvian shading of these restaurants was so prevalent that when she experiences Japanese food anywhere else, she finds it to be completely differ-
ent than what she has at home. It was surprising to hear her opinion that though they might have some main ingredients in common, the two cuisines were not as similar as they might seem at first; she said that “Peruvian cuisine is more something that you can elaborate at your own home. You don’t need that many skills. I believe that with Japanese cuisine, you need to know how to cut the salmon – like if you make the sushi rolls, it’s a whole process.” Since its inception, Nikkei cuisine has been gaining more and more traction; first among the mixed cultural groups in Peru itself, then among the up-and-coming tier of the gastronomic world. Though Nikkei has ambassadors around the globe (most notably Albert Adrià’s restaurant Pakta
in Barcelona), Lima remains the beating heart of this electrifying new food movement. This city houses the most prominent representative of Nikkei cuisine: Maido, which currently holds a spot in the San Pellegrino 50 Best Restaurants list. Chef Mitsuharu Tsumura was born and raised in Peru. After graduating from Johnson and Wales, he traveled to Japan to study under sushi chefs for several years before opening Maido. Within just a few years, Maido ascended to No. 44 and then No. 13 the following year, wowing the judges with understated yet explosive dishes such as sushi molleja (sweetbread sushi). Maido is also renowned for their Wagyu shortrib, which is cooked for 50 hours before being served with Amazonic chili and
fried rice with cecina (the Latin equivalent of proscuitto). Alejandra said that Peruvians are very open-minded to new cuisines. This open-mindedness undoubtedly helped the threads of Japanese cuisine to take root and flourish in Lima. Now we, as chefs, are the ones presented with an opportunity: to utilize our creativity to its fullest extent, taking the baton of a new cooking style and driving it forward into the future. This fledgling fusion cuisine has come a long way since Japanese farmers landed on the shore of Peru over a hundred years ago. Only time will reveal the ever-increasing extent of its impact on our gastronomic society.
Tiradito is a combination of Peruvian ingredients with Japanese preparation. photo courtesy: www.sippitysup.com
Changes to Hospitality Classes
BY: Alex Cutler, Staff Contributor
While some people may joke that CIA stands for “Change it Again”, we should be proud that the CIA has the insight and courage to make changes, keeping up with the industry improving our delivery of education. The school recently moved the placement of Introduction to Customer Service from 4th term to 5th term and renamed it “Introduction to Hospitality and Service.” In 4th term, students doubled the class day with Cuisines of Asia, but now it is doubled with Wine Studies. While not ideal, the move was necessary because there were too many credit hours in 4th term which had a negative effect on financial aid for students. Several years ago, the service class was doubled with Wines Class. Students could not meet with tutors and did not have enough time to study. With a sixhour service class that consisted of 1.5 hours a day polishing silverware, glassware and setting tables, the experience was not always positive as there were not enough students dining on Stage due to timing issues. Polishing
silverware, glassware, and setting tables are skills easily attained in Contemporary Service in the restaurants. We proposed removing the service component from the class and replacing it with a more concentrated focus on the muscle skills of service. This way, it better prepares the students for the restaurants while providing more flexibility for students’ study time. Students now take 7 days of service class, approximately 2 hours a day, the same block as 10 days of Wine Class. This has required students to responsibly prepare for class by viewing the Power Points, videos and reading assignments on Moodle. A “selfie” video of greeting a table must be uploaded to Moodle prior to day one as well as completing a short quiz on Moodle before each days’ lesson. The class involves 4 days of Micros POS system practice as well as practice setting, and serving a table of four including a bottle of wine on which practical exams are conducted. Another practical of mak-
ing espresso and cappuccino on a video uploaded to Moodle is also utilized to assess competencies. We also take an orientation tour of the restaurants to reduce Day 1 anxiety by familiarizing the students with the floor plan, pantry, storage areas, etc. The goal is to focus on motor skills before working with the public in the restaurants so that basic skills will be more automatic. Concentration is now spent on specifics of each dining room and hospitality. Professors Lauria and Garibaldi and their MITs Regina Gutierrez and Russell Cunningham have noted the increase in self-confidence in the students and comfort in serving wine and using the Micros system. Change is rarely without pains. Adjustments have been made every block since the inception for the new delivery on September 12, 2016, but the results have been very positive.
Hospitality classes have been following a new format since September 2016. photo courtesy: www.ciachef.edu
February 10, 2017
Features
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S.A.A.C. Establishes Relationship with Athletics
BY: Frank Risole, Staff Contributor
Of the eight million student athletes competing in high school athletics in the United States, only 6% will go on to compete at the NCAA collegiate level. Here at The Culinary Institute of America, we have five varsity intercollegiate athletic teams who compete in The Hudson Valley Intercollegiate Athletics Conference. Competing at this level asks a lot of the students and faculty. It is important to maintain clear communication between the NCAA and the student body here at the CIA. In 1989, the Student Athlete Advisory Committee (SAAC) was formed at the NCAA National Convention. The purpose of this committee was to review and offer studentathlete input on NCAA activities and proposed legislation that affected the well-being of the student athletes. In 1997, the NCAA delegated the SAAC committee to the divisional level having representatives at the Division I, II, and III level. Here at the CIA, two representatives from each of the 5 varsity
teams were selected by their respective coaches to represent their team and to be the voice between the teams and the administration. Some of the representatives are captains of their teams like Dominick DiLallo of the men’s soccer team, and Kristin Brangwynne of the women’s cross country team. There are also representatives of the teams that may not necessarily be captains of their team, but their coach sees them as a team leader. This is represented in students such as Alexis Brown of the women’s volleyball team, and Tarik Rodriguez of the men’s basketball team. The term “student-athlete” is exactly what it says. You are a student first and an athlete second. Being able to balance the hectic student life with academic classes as well as time in the kitchen, as well as add team practices and games or races to your week is not an easy task for anybody to do. “Being a student-athlete for me means being a student who is actively involved in athletics at your school” says tennis team
member James Buquet, AOS culinary arts student from Bay St. Louis, MS. “[We are] students first and athletes second. You step up to the occasion and are a person of character”. Lauren Brugnatelli, AOS baking and pastry student from Brewster, NY and one of the volleyball team captains has a different vision on being a student-athlete. “I get to be involved in other things on campus outside of baking. Being part of the volleyball team is like having a family and makes me feel like the CIA is my second home. It helps me de-stress from a long day of class and keeps me physically fit at the same time”. The SAAC committee is much more than what it stands for. One purpose of the SAAC committee is to introduce a leadership initiative for those selected. These student-athletes are a gifted group that works hard both on and off the playing surface. They have structure and balance in their lives and they try to instill that in their teammates and friends across campus. “I feel honored to be selected to be
a part of this committee” states Logan Gates, AOS culinary arts student from Middletown, DE and member of the men’s soccer team. “Honestly I never expected to be chosen for this position. The responsibility is important to me and I am grateful for being selected”. The committee also works to promote the many sporting events on campus. From soccer games and volleyball matches to cross country races and basketball games, the SAAC committee is dedicated and responsible for building the fan base at all of the home events. “When I bring up to people that I’m on the cross country team, a lot of people did not even know that we had one” says Kristin Brangwynne, AOS baking and pastry student from Mansfield, MA. “I hope to establish CIA athletics as a more recognized organization”. Another initiative of the SAAC committee includes community service to better not only the community but also the school and athletics program. This is a staple in college athlet-
ics across the nation. During the fall season, teams will hold food drives and assist in the community by raking leaves for the elderly. During the winter months, teams will hold coat and clothing drives as well have cheer on and support the Special Olympics. Some are also brave enough to bare the elements and take on the Polar Plunge to help raise money and support athletes with special needs. Intercollege athletics is a key component to all colleges and universities. Sports as a whole help promote school spirit and unity along with practicing and promoting good health and wellness. Taking care of the body is just another task on the “to-do list” for these already busy, and dedicated, student-athletes. The SAAC committee meets every six weeks with coadvisors Frank Risole and Associate Dean David Whalen.
Beyond the Bottle: Alcohol Laws
BY: Alex Talbot, AOS Baking & Pastry
Prohibition led to the decimation of the beverage industry, but it also dealt considerable damage to the restaurant industry. With a lack of revenue from liquor sales, food establishments struggled to generate enough revenue to support the bottom line. Jobs were lost. Crime drastically increased and states lost a revenue source. While it was considered to be a “noble experiment”, it became widely regarded as a failure. A few years later, the 21st amendment repealed prohibition and allowed for the recovery of the food and beverage industry. The 21st amendment can be broken up into three sections. The first section of the amendment repealed the 18th amendment-the Prohibition amendment. Jumping ahead, the third section states that the amendment must be properly ratified to take effect. Finally, the second section was then interpreted to give all the power of alcohol control over to the states. This means that each state has the right to decide for themselves how to control alcohol. Some states gave the power to decide to individual parishes, counties, and even towns. If a town or county decided to not allow the selling of alcohol, they are commonly referred to as “dry”. To this day there are over 200 counties that prohibit the selling of any type alcohol. This does not
include the number of counties that have some sort of restriction on selling alcohol in some form or the numerous amount of dry towns. With the continuation of dry areas, it hampers the opening of new business and innovation. It also brings barriers to existing companies. For example, in the town of Lynchburg, Tennessee, it is illegal to purchase alcohol of any kind. This is particularly notable due to the fact that it is
photo courtesy: www.friendslake.com
the town where Jack Daniels is produced. While visitors may purchase a commemorative bottle at the souvenir shop they cannot purchase Jack Daniels anywhere else in the county. This prevents local businesses from tapping into the tourist interests and serving mixed drinks featuring whisky. However, it is not just dry counties that can interfere with business. Oklahoma recently changed a law that stated that local breweries could not sell high
point beer - any beer that’s not 3.2 ABV - on premise to customers. Before the law changed, local breweries had to deny customer requests to buy their product on premise. The breweries were also more pressed to make low point beer to improve their bottom line instead of creating micro brews of their choice. It also forced breweries to only sell samples of their high point brews on premise. However in August of last year, Senate Bill 424 allowed for brew-
eries to sell full strength beer on premise. This helps breweries to be able to cater to their guests as well as increase profitability. As in Oklahoma, alcohol laws around the nation are beginning to change and open up. While the change is headed to open up the laws and allow for a more progressive view on alcohol, it’s important to inform local lawmakers on the implications of their decisions. While alcohol is an integral part of the restaurant industry, it is also a controversial substance. This means that many groups will lobby for stronger alcohol control laws. In order to protect the best interests of the restaurant industry, restaurateurs and chefs need to be active participants in their local government; this way, the restaurant industry can continue to rely beverage sales as a substantial form of revenue.
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February 10, 2017
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Graduation
AOS Graduating Class of February 10, 2017 Culinary Arts Group #1 Front Row: Canieka Fleming, Devraj Kalani, Gillian Teall, John Myke Back Row: Kyle Cyphers, Nicholas Antunes, James Lee, Zach Falcone, Matt Celano, George Squire, James Bower, Isaac Wild, Danielle Buscoino, Natan Kikuta
Culinary Arts Group #1 Front Row: Alejandra Harmsen, Arielle Israel, Humaira Jhnjhuncoala, Emily Barton Back Row: Jeanette Thane, Mikayla Espect, Lei Elmann, Megan Read, Anachal Sapra, I- Tsung Hou
Culinary Arts Group #1 Front Row: Kristl Caruna, Vincent Dambrosio, Clare Malfitano, Robert Hartman, Mikaela Cornell Back Row: Anthony Sorerino, Hunter Wallach, Khalidah Martineau- Lopez, Yeleni Leon, Tabitha Foster, David Aracama, Brianne Ramer, Tara A Jenkins- Jackson, David Trasente, Dylan Zagel, Scott Handschin
February 10, 2017
Graduation
11
AOS Graduation Speaker: Michael McGrath Chief Executive Officer: Newman’s Own
BY: Shelly Loveland, Staff Contributor
Michael McGrath is the chief executive officer (CEO) for Newman’s Own, Inc. In this position, he is responsible for managing the food and beverage company’s business in the United States and internationally, as well as leading new product development and market expansion. Mr. McGrath also serves as a member of the Newman’s Own, Inc. Board of Directors. There are currently more than 300 items in the Newman’s Own product line of great-tasting, high-quality, and organic foods, including salad dressings, pasta sauces, frozen pizza, salsa, frozen skillet meals, refrigerated lemonades, cookies, snacks, and pet food. Each contributes to fulfilling the company’s “100% of Profits to Charity” commitment through the Newman’s Own Foundation. In collaboration with 30-year Newman’s Own partner LiDestri Foods, Mr. McGrath recently introduced a new line of organic pasta sauces to consumers under the name Common Good. The two CEOs—
Giovanni LiDestri and Mike McGrath—selected a specific tomato varietal in a taste test, LiDestri Foods commissioned a California farmer to grow it, and just one year after the idea was conceived, finished jars were arriving at grocery stores. Mr. McGrath began his work with Newman’s Own as an outside consultant on business issues. He subsequently joined the Newman’s Own team in 2013, when he was hired to manage the intellectual properties and licenses for the food and beverage business. In 2014, Mr. McGrath was named CEO. His more than 35 years in the food and beverage business also includes a successful career in the consumer packaged food business, where he was president and CEO of Weight Watchers and, most recently, the founder and CEO of Wolfgang Puck Soups, which he sold to the Campbell Soup Company. Michael McGrath was a personal friend of actor and Newman’s Own co-founder Paul Newman. He is a longtime
supporter of charitable causes, most notably the SeriousFun Children’s Network, where he serves on the Advisory Board, and its member camps, such as Barretstown in Ireland (where he has served on the Board of Directors) and The Hole in the Wall Gang Camp in Ashford, CT. Mr. McGrath earned a bachelor of science in business administration and accounting from Central Connecticut State University in New Britain, CT and a master’s in business administration from Lehigh University in Bethlehem, PA.
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Sustainability
Seafood Sustainability at Forefront of 2017
BY: April Johnson, AOS Culinary
When most chefs hear the word sustainable, the first thing that comes to mind is farm to table, organic farms, and using the freshest ingredients possible. What many fail to realize is that in the restaurant industry sustain-
able seafood is a major sustainability issue. A large majority of fish are overfished, causing certain species to become in danger of extinction. Chefs have the responsibility to keep the ocean in balance.
Chef Viverito poses with Striped Bass. photo courtesy: Rachel Price/ CIA Photography Club
In the mid-1900’s the demand for fish increased dramatically, causing many fishing fleets and commercial fisheries to come into existence. Due to all the competition and the need to meet the demands of the people, many fish were harvested from the oceans. National Geographic reported that by 1989, 90 million tons of fish were taken from the ocean. This forced the companies and fishermen to take a step back and realize how fast they were taking fish from the oceans. By not giving enough time for the fish to repopulate, overfishing has caused many fish populations to become scarce and in danger of extinction. Now that the world is aware of this problem, what steps have been taken to solve it? To really understand this concept, we must understand the definition of sustainable seafood. Merriam Webster defines sustainable as, “of, relating to, or being a method of harvesting or using a resource so that the resource is not depleted or permanently damaged.” Chef Viverito teaches the Seafood Identification and Fabrication class at the CIA, and he spoke about about sustainable seafood. He says, “sustainability encompasses so many variables, such as the economics of the area,
the habitat, and the population of the species.” You can buy a fish that is popular but is fished in a way that does not damage their habitat, which would be known as a sustainable practice. Or, you could buy a lesser caught fish. In other words, there are numerous ways a restaurant could put the idea of sustainable seafood into practice. Chefs have become more educated on what seafood companies or fisheries engage in sustainable practices of fishing. For example, Alaska’s state constitution has a factor of sustainability built into it, so chefs know that if any seafood they buy comes from Alaska, it was caught in a way that does not damage the habitat or put the fish species in danger of becoming extinct. Chefs can research what fish are popular and then turn to their purveyors to find a fish similar to what the current demand is. Organizations like Blue Ocean Institute, Monterey Bay Aquarium, and Rite Bite have guides that list what fish are available in certain regions, which can then in turn help a chef make the right decisions of what fish to purchase for their restaurant. Another solution to this problem has been marking certain
seasons for catching certain fish, making sure to prohibit fishing during the fish’s spawning season. Chefs have also been serving lesser known fish on their menus. Chef Viverito mentioned that lionfish, asian carp, and blue catfish are the lesser known fish chefs are using lately. He also pointed out how most people think it costs more for a restaurant to put lesser known fish on the menu, when usually it is cheaper. Chef Viverito suggests that a chef run a new, lesser known fish as a feature. This presents the opportunity to educate your customers, who will then in turn educate others. The best way for us as future chefs to help keep the practice of sustainable seafood alive is to become more educated;more educated about what the available seafood is in the area you live in, how it is caught, and the seasons of the fish. After you are educated, it is your job to educate the public. You can educate the public by featuring lesser known fish and by letting them know the fish off your menu comes from a local fisherman who follows correct practices. Awareness about sustainable fish can only benefit our restaurants as well as our oceans.
My Semester Away: Fifteen weeks in Singapore
BY: Deja Burrows, BBA Food Business Managemnet
It takes about 20 odd hours to arrive at the apartment style dorms of the local technical school in Singapore where the CIA campus resides. The first week on the island is similar to middle school field trips and you wished everyday your learning would leave the classroom walls. This is exactly what happens during a planned trip to Chinatown which includes the wet market with live seafood such as turtles, eels, and frogs being skinned alive. The next day begins with a hearty breakfast of Dim Sum and ends with a lesson on the art of a traditional Chinese tea ceremony. Malaysian food and culture is also a large portion of Singaporean heritage which is why a trip to a Malay market is included in the activities. Later that day, dinner is a Malaysian favorite, Nasi Lemak, which is a fried chicken leg quarter with steamed rice and a fried egg garnished with cucumbers and small crisp fried fish. To further the lesson on Indian cuisine, students are taken to the market in Little India to explore ingredients and traditional garments such as Saris and experience several plates of roti prata, masala dosa, and various curry sauces. The most interesting dish students have the opportunity to try is the Singaporean Indian Rojack which is a mixture of vegetables and seafood battered
and fried upon request, chopped up, mixed together, and served with pickled cucumbers and chili sauce. This mixture of colors and textures represents the many cultures and people of Singapore and in the next few weeks we learned why. After a week of navigating the Singaporean bus and subway systems, classes begin. The first course is a 5-week advanced cooking class followed by two subsequent courses known as Asian Cuisine One and Two. Academic classes such as Traditional Food Ways are also held during the first 5 weeks to broaden students’ understanding of the history behind Asian food and culture. Transcultural Studies is another academic course which focuses on diversity and is meant to guide students in writing their ever hovering senior thesis papers. After a few weeks, students begin to fit in to the culture at the school and learn how to order coffee in Malay and how to thank the Uncles and Aunties (terms of endearment for all Singaporean elderly) in Chinese. The next step for students on this trip is a move to a dorm where they live with local Singaporean students and learn more about the culture. The Singaporean students may explain the traditional three-day long wedding or how recruitment for the mili-
tary works. Students then pack their bags again and go out of the country to Mumbai, India. On a nine-day school sponsored trip, students have the opportunity to take in the food and culture of a rich and flavorful land. The daily activities include visiting spice farms, riding elephants, browsing large outdoor markets and partaking in street food. Nightly activities include seeking out hole in the wall late night restaurants that serve dinner and chatting on the hood of each other’s cars. Though the shot size glasses of Masala Chai, hotel breakfast Idles (Fermented rice cakes) and Tandoori restaurant butter chicken are all amazing, the best meals students get to experience are in the homes of local Indians. These meals may be eaten on the floor out of tradition and without silverware and include the heavy use of coconut. After returning to Singapore from India, students may plan trips to Vietnam, Thailand, Japan, Bali, and Malaysia. Within Singapore, local class trips are made to restaurants to have cuisines such as Burmese and Tze Char Chinese, and to try dishes made based on Traditional Chinese Medicine practices. As a part of kitchen classes, students host several events such as a Dynasty Dinner which highlights some of the Chinese dynasties, their cuisine and culture. Another event held is
a dinner for the elderly in which Asian/Western fusion dishes are served and a pig roast highlighting the cuisines of the Philippian’s Bali and Indonesia. One of the most exciting kitchen classes is held on one of the smaller islands off of mainland Singapore, Puala Ubin. It includes an overnight camping trip surrounding a meal made of food from an Asian nomadic trip that consisted of spit roasted lamb, palov rice, mantu fried dumplings, nan breads, fresh cheese and yogurts, everything being cooked on a three tiered outdoor fire.
Of course, these are not all the wonderful experiences students get from the Asian concentration. The hand pulled noodles and the malls on every street corner are just two more things students experience. Some may be encouraged to run up to career and academic advising and sign up right away and others may just be glad to know that opportunities like this are available, but whichever you be, know that a semester abroad in any country can be life changing and change not only how you view food but how you view the world.
photo courtesy: www.singaporetourism.com