March 24, 2017 Issue

Volume 38, No. 4

March 24, 2017

La

Papillote

Chowder Cook Off 2017

BY: Deja Burrows, BBA Food Business Management

If you were to enter the gymnasium at the Culinary Institute of America on March 12th, you would have been enveloped in the smooth sounds of the live band and salty air smell of simmering clams. Fourteen teams were selected to be a part of the CIA’s 16th Annual Chowder Cook Off, with food preparations starting the day before and decorations being carefully crafted from weeks before the event. The competition included two components - the first being the judged competition with a panel of judges that each team presented with hot bowls of ungarnished chowders for critique.

Fellow students and other members of the CIA family were invited to help in judging for the People’s Choice award. A ballot holding fourteen boxes - one for each team - was given out and

each ballot was stamped upon approaching the booth and sampling the chowder. Each guest could vote for the chowder they liked best.

Every stamp on their voter’s card counting as a point.

With themes as varied as prison lunch style chowder to Finding Dory, costumes and decorations filled the room with color and style. SPICE even gave the guests themselves a chance to dress up with a “decorate your own sailor hat” table, including shells and fabric paint. So, with voter cards in hand and sailor hats on their heads, guests set out to try the carefully crafted chowders. Each chowder had its own signature style.

Some included seafood rather than clams; crawfish, shrimp and even cod roe made an appearance while others included classic ingredients such potatoes, corn, and bacon for a smoky finish. Though the creamy

Cont’d on Pg 7

Different teams prepare various chowders for competition.

Historic Women of the CIA

BY: April Johnson, AOS Culinary

March is National Women’s History Month, where we take the time to remember the great women who have changed the world for the better.

Two of these women are Frances Roth and Katharine Angell, two powerhouse women who founded a school in New Haven, Connecticut that over the years would grow to become one of

the best culinary schools in the nation.

Frances Roth was born in April of 1896. When she was 17, she attended law school at New York University. In 1925, Roth became the first female to pass the bar exam and be admitted to the Connecticut Bar Association.

From 1925 to 1941 Frances served as the Assistant City Attorney in

New Haven. In 1944, Roth’s daughter Norma also passed the bar exam, making them the first mother- daughter members of the Connecticut Bar Association. I had the opportunity to interview Nicole Semenchuk, the Archives and Digital Collections Specialist at the Hyde Park Campus.

Semenchuk said, “She had everything going against her. She was

photo courtesy: Jessica Hasapis

From Dock to Dish

BY: Mike Feist, BBA Food Business Management

Dock to Dish, a sustainable seafood souricng program, was created in 2012. photo courtesy: Victoria Smith of Dock to Dish

Left: Frances Roth. Right: Katharine Angell

photo courtesy: www.ciachef.edu

Cont’d on Pg 4

P3

“Campus”

“Feature”

Papillote

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Newsletter

I was painted a vivid picture; almost 90% of fish sold in the US is imported, mainly from Asia, and about half of those from farms are in and around polluted rivers like the Mekong. The fish are largely illegal, unreported, and unregulated (IUU) and forced labor is prevalent in the industry.

Due to these factors, US seafood prices are rock-bottom. The number of US imports surpasses the previous record each year, and the FDA only inspects about 1% of these imports before the food

Dock to Dish

P 4-5

CENTER SPREAD

“Center Spread”

Interview: Pete Wells

P 6-7

is distributed. More foodborne illness outbreaks come from seafood than from any other imported food. We have an epidemic on our hands.

Sean Barrett is a lifelong fisherman who is currently located at the Stone Barns Center for Food & Agriculture. We met there to talk about what he’s doing to fight this catastrophe. In 2012, Sean created Dock to Dish, a network of fishermen, chefs, and some of the most brilliant people in the industry. He launched the operation

Cont’d on Pg 5

“Entertainment”

P 8-9

Puzzles & Comics

BACK PAGE

P 12

“Sustainability”

Hydroponic Farming

LA PAPILLOTE

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Editorial

Papillote

THE NEWSPAPER OF THE CULINARY INSTITUTE OF AMERICA SINCE 1979

En

March 24, 2017

PUBLISHER The Student Affairs Division EDITOR-IN-CHIEF Dan Salisbury LAYOUT EDITOR Alexis Brown ADVERTISING MANAGER Sue Haug CONTRIBUTORS Fancesca Zani Joe Piccirillo Dan Salisbury Mike Feist Ethan Reynolds Alex Talbot Shelly Loveland

Leslie Jennings April Johnson Cindy Yuong Amanda Lamperti Deja Burrows Timothy Slavin Matt Ivins

COMPACT

La Papillote, the Newspaper of the Culinary Institute of America since 1979, is dedicated to respecting the mission, history and values of the college. Our primary purpose is to report the news of the institution to the students and other members of the campus community. We examine contemporary issues of the food service and hospitality industries to inform, challenge and develop the minds of students as they aspire to leadership roles in their chosen profession. We reflect the diverse views of the student body and provide a forum for civil discussion.

Above all else, in our reporting and features, we strive to be accurate, fair, unbiased and free from distortion. Whenever we portray someone in a negative light or accuse a party of wrongdoing, we will make a real effort to obtain and print a response from that subject in the same issue. We will not plagiarize.

Articles and features are expected to be independent assessments on a topic by an individual author. The views expressed are those of the author’s alone. They do not necessarily represent the views or opinions of La Papillote or its staff, nor do they represent the views or opinions of The Culinary Institute of America, or any entity of, or affiliated with the college.

From the Editor’s Desk March 24, 2017

Dear Fellow Students,

As always, it’s been a hectic month at the CIA. It was great to see everyone at the Chowder Cook Off! A big thank you to all that competed or came out to try the chowders. Although somewhat bittersweet as it’s my last Cook Off, I’m thankful for having the good fortune to compete with you all. It was a truly awesome time, and I encourage you to sign up for next year!

March is National Women’s History Month, and I thought it important to highlight Katharine Angell and Frances Roth. With the CIA recently recieving a lot of press about the level of female enrollment - an awesome thing! - I believe we owe it to ourselves to learn about the two women who played a major role in the development of the school.

March is also National Nutrition Month! With the weather getting warmer, it’s nice to get outside, excercise, and eat right. It’s tough to find a balance, but with good diet and excercise it makes schoolwork and practicing knife cuts a little easier. I’m looking foward to getting out to local farmers markets myself, but I’ll stay warm inside for now. It’s interesting to learn about various sources of produce and new hydroponic systems in use around the country such as those featured on the back page - a great read.

Hope you all made it to the career fair!

Thank you, Dan Salisbury

FOOD REVIEW POLICY

As a valuable part of our content, La Papillote offers restaurant reviews. It is in the best interest of our readership to be honest, accurate and fair in providing information and judgment on these establishments. Reviews will reflect the writer’s opinions about the menu, atmosphere and service. Whenever possible, reviews will be conducted with complete anonymity. Permission from the restaurants will not be secured prior. All issues of La Papillote are available online, therefore, the critiqued restaurants, along with the public, can view editions at anytime on the web.

EDITORIAL POLICY

La Papillote welcomes submissions of work from students, chefs and outside professionals. The decision to print is based on the following criteria: quality of content, value of content to our readers, quality of writing, originality, objectivity, layout, and verifiability.

Besides the Editor, there are two Copy Editors who read over submitted articles. Major changes will be reported to writers before the issue goes out. However, any other changes that need to be edited close to the deadline may or may not be forwarded to writers. This is due to the fact of lack of time. It is asked for writers to trust the Editor’s decision at this point during layout. Please direct all submissions to: Dan Salisbury, Editor-In-Chief at lapapillote.culinary@gmail.com.

LETTERS POLICY

Letters to the Editor may not exceed 250 words and they should be exclusive to La Papillote. In selecting letters, the editors try to present a balance of views. We reserve the right to edit for space, clarity, civility and accuracy, and will send you the edited version before publication. If your letter is selected, we will try to reach you in necessary cases to verify the letter’s authenticity, to clarify your motivation, to clarify your relation to the subject for our readers or to verify facts or sources. Letters to the Editor may be sent to lapapillote.culinary@gmail.com with “Letter to the Editor - For Publication” in the subject line. Please include your phone number.

Dan Salisbury Editor-in-Chief

Alexis Brown Layout Editor

Alison Sprong Copy Editor

Joe Piccirillo Social Media Editor

April Johnson Jr. Copy Editor

Liz Lucinese Jr. Copy Editor

NOTICE OF NON-DISCRIMINATION

The Culinary Institute of America (CIA) is an Equal Opportunity Employer committed to the principle of equal opportunity in education and employment. The CIA does not discriminate against individuals on the basis of race, color, sex, sexual orientation, gender identity, religion, disability, age, genetic information, marital status, veteran status, ancestry, national or ethnic origin, or any other protected group or classification under federal or state laws. The following persons have been designated to handle inquiries regarding the non-discrimination policies: Civil Rights Compliance Officers Joe Morano HR Director-Faculty Relations

Maura A. King Director-Compliance

Title IX and Age Discrimination

Section 504/ADA

Office: Roth Hall Room S324

Office: Roth Hall Room S351

Telephone: 845-451-1314

Telephone: 845-451-1429

Email: J_morano@culinary.edu

Email: m_king@culinary.edu

The Culinary Institute of America 1946 Campus Drive Hyde Park, NY 12538 Should you require further information, please visit http://ciachef.edu/consumerinformation.

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@la_papillote

March 24, 2017

March Newsletter

BY: Jeff Levine, CIA Staff

LEADING MEDIA ORGANIZATIONS: TIM RYAN AMONG THE MOST POWERFUL PEOPLE IN FOOD

CIA President Tim Ryan is once again one of the most powerful people in the food world for 2017, according to both the Daily Meal and Nation’s Restaurant News. It’s the second year in a row that the two media organizations have recognized Dr. Ryan.

The Daily Meal profiles Dr. Ryan on its list of America’s 50 Most Powerful People in Food, detailing how the college has thrived under his direction.

It cites the opening of campuses in Texas and Singapore, the creation of new degree programs, and the development of a brewery. This year, he is #24 on the list, which includes such distinguished figures as Oprah Winfrey, Amazon founder Jeff Bezos, and Starbucks CEO Howard Schultz.

“A roster of CIA graduates or former students reads like a history of contemporary American (and occasionally non-American) cuisine,” the editors write. “[The CIA] remains the gold standard for serious instruction in the culinary arts, and Ryan just keeps pushing it forward.”

The feature about Dr. Ryan in the Nation’s Restaurant News NRN 50 Power List special issue says, “For 15 years, Tim Ryan has led what is widely considered the country’s premier culinary school—The Culinary Institute of America—and has solidified its reputation as a leading force in the evolving food landscape. . . [The CIA] has also prepared thousands of students for the broad career opportunities available to the modern chef. Realizing that chefs do more at restaurants than cook, Ryan and his staff have expanded instruction to include such diverse topics as culinary science, elder care, technology, and business.”

Dr. Ryan is one of six “influencers” on the NRN Power List, and 2017 actually marks the third time in the last four years he has been acknowledged by the well-respected foodservice business magazine.

Commenting on the dual honors, Dr. Ryan said, “It’s ful-

filling to lead such an outstanding team of educators during this dynamic time in food business and higher education. There are so many opportunities, so many paths for students to take—and we are gratified to know that when they leave our college, they are prepared to lead in every segment of the food world. Our graduates are shaping the way people eat and they’re transforming the industry. That’s a great feeling for us.”

Dr. Ryan is a 1977 CIA graduate. A Culinary Olympics champion and Certified Master Chef, he also holds an advanced Ivy League degree, earning his doctorate in education from the University of Pennsylvania. Dr. Ryan returned to the CIA as a faculty member in 1982 and became the college’s fifth president in 2001.

F A C U LT Y- A U T H O R E D COOKBOOK NOMINATED FOR AWARD

The Young Chef: Recipes and Techniques for Kids Who Love to Cook, by CIA Professor Mark Ainsworth ’86 has been nominated for a cookbook award from the International Association of Culinary Professionals (IACP). Published by the CIA and Houghton Mifflin Harcourt, Chef Ainsworth’s book features dozens of kid-friendly recipes using a wide range of cooking methods, along with techniques and hints for budding cooks to safely and enjoyably navigate the kitchen.

The Young Chef is a finalist in the “Children, Youth, and Family” category. The winners will be announced on March 5 in Louisville, KY at the IACP conference.

POST ROAD BREW HOUSE POPS UP ON NEW YORK CAMPUS

Post Road Brew House—a new casual, contemporary, beer-driven pop-up restaurant—is open on the CIA’s Hyde Park campus through June 15.

Combining seasonal Hudson Valley cuisine with classic European gastro-classics, Post Road Brew House serves as an extension of the Brewery at the CIA.

“Most of our restau-

Campus rants have skewed high-end and traditional, but as the industry has shifted toward quality casual dining, we want our students to have an opportunity to open and operate this type of restaurant, as well,” says Waldy Malouf, senior director of food and beverage operations at the CIA.

The menu includes a mix of casual and classic appetizers, entrees, and sides designed to pair perfectly with the beer selection. The beer offerings have been curated by CIA Head Brewer Hutch Kugeman and include eight draught beers. Some are produced at the Brewery at the CIA by students in the CIA’s Art and Science of Brewing course, and others through collaboration with New York State breweries.

The extended beer list may include non-CIA beers on tap and a small bottled list, in addition to a full bar, cocktail menu, and special wine list.

Restaurants on CIA campuses are open to the public and provide practical experience for students. As part of the requirements for their degree, Hyde Park students have classes in two of the five restaurants: Post Road Brew House, Ristorante Caterina de’ Medici, American Bounty Restaurant, The Bocuse Restaurant, or the Apple Pie Bakery Café.

Post Road Brew House is open until June 15 for dinner, and from March 24 to May 4 for lunch. Reservations are recommended, but walk-ins are also welcome. Call (845) 451-1015 or visit www.postroadbrewhouse. com.

CIA COLLABORATES IN NEW ROBOTICS INNOVATION EFFORT

The U.S. Department of Defense (DoD) has awarded $80 million to a national publicprivate partnership in which the CIA is a collaborating member.

The Advanced Robotics Manufacturing (ARM) Innovation Hub is receiving the five-year grant to further the development of robotics. The CIA is among the 40 academic partners working with industry, government, and nonprofit organizations as part of the Carnegie Mellon University-

based ARM Institute.

Supported by the DoD, the ARM Institute is a collective effort to help revitalize American manufacturing and provide companies with a reason to invest in new technology. The CIA became involved when the college submitted a proposal to ARM focused around the further development of foodservice automation and manufacturing through advancements in smart robotics solutions.

Other higher education institutions that are part of the ARM Institute include Rensselaer Polytechnic Institute, MIT, University of Connecticut, Rochester Institute of Technology, Yale, and Purdue.

CIA TO HONOR “TRIO OF TITANS”

On April 19, foodservice and hospitality industry leaders, celebrity chefs, CIA alumni, and other luminaries from business and entertainment will come together at the American Museum of Natural History in New York City to honor a “Trio of Titans.”

The college’s annual Augie Award™ celebration is a gala to support student scholarships. Created in tribute to famed French chef Auguste Escoffier, the “Augies” recognize the achievement of visionaries, entrepreneurs, and chefs. This year’s recipients are three people who have transformed and elevated the food and hospitality industry: • Shep Gordon: Talent manager for rock stars, Hollywood agent, film producer, and bestselling author, Gordon is also credited with creating the celebrity chef. He was the subject of the award-winning Mike Myers film, Supermensch.

• Jacques Pépin: Chef Pépin’s awards include France’s highest civilian honor, La Legion d’Honneur; 16 James Beard Foundation Awards, including the Lifetime Achievement Award; and an Emmy Award for his PBS series with Julia Child.

• Martha Stewart: Emmy Award-winning television host, bestselling author, trusted lifestyle expert, and respected business entrepreneur, Stewart’s brand of high-quality household

3

and garden products are sold at major retailers. Her latest television show pairs her with rap star, Snoop Dogg.

In conjunction with the event is an online auction, open for bidding in early April, to raise additional scholarship funds.

More than 90 percent of the CIA student body depends on some type of financial aid, and this event is the college’s largest annual fundraiser.

Information about tickets and sponsorship opportunities, along with more details about the event are available online.

BACHELOR’S GRAD LEADS REVITALIZATION OF HARLEM FOOD SCENE

Recent articles in two popular digital men’s magazines, Thrillist and The Manual, profile Joseph “JJ” Johnson ’07 (Bachelor’s), chef at Minton’s in Harlem, and a force behind the revitalization of the Harlem food and music scene.

“You can’t find food like Johnson’s anywhere,” according to the Thrillist article, while The Manual says, “Chef JJ is a game changer.”

After earning his bachelor’s degree in Culinary Arts Management from the CIA, he traveled to Ghana to learn authentic West African cuisine, which he then brought back to New York.

For several years, Johnson was chef at The Cecil, which recently merged with Minton’s—a legendary Harlem jazz and supper club.

In late 2016, he was named by Rolling Stone as a Breakthrough Rock Star Chef.

And that’s just the latest of his accolades. The previous year he was a StarChefs Rising Star Chef, New York African Restaurant Week Chef of the Year, and semifinalist for Rising Star Chef Award from the James Beard Foundation. In 2014, he was named to Forbes’ 30-Under-30, Zagat’s 30-Under-30, and Eater’s Young Guns.

Chef Johnson has returned to his alma mater several times to give cooking demonstrations to students and fellow alumni during the college’s homecoming weekends.

From L/R: CIA President Dr. Tim Ryan is honored; CIA Professor Mark Ainsworth’s IACP Nominated book; Chef “JJ” Johnson ‘07 is revitalizing the Harlem food scene.

photo courtesy: CIA Staff

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LA PAPILLOTE

Features

Kenka: A Taste of Japan in NYC

BY: Cindy Yuong, AOS Baking & Pastry

A wild and eccentric Japanese Izakaya restaurant can be found in St. Mark’s street of NYC’s East Village. Walking along the street at night, the restaurants along the strip seemed quite average, but once you got to Kenka, you could not pass by without at least pausing and looking back. The exterior of the restaurant is quite something – a huge blue sign spells out Kenka in Japanese, but a unique raccoon statue with glowing red eyes stands at the right side with a cotton candy machine and a head-inthe-hole picture board on the left.

A huge crowd gathers outside the doors waiting to get in.

The restaurant doesn’t take reservations; it only has a clipboard with a sign-up sheet in front of the doors. The host walks out once a table is cleared to check on the list and seat the next guests. During my wait, people spoke of previous visits to the restaurant, saying the wait could be either extremely short or long, but they would always come back for the food and atmosphere.

The interior may be a little more extreme than the exterior. Vintage Japanese flags, posters, and pachinko machines line the walls of the restaurant as slightly obnoxious music blasts through the speakers. However, the experience is truly authentic as the host announces the party’s entrance and the entire staff yells “Irashaimase!” in welcoming, just as they do when entering any building in Japan. Seating includes tables and benches in addition to countertop spots by the kitchen. Baskets are provided to place one’s belongings in at the foot of the table.

At Kenka, the menu

cont’d from front

a single mother after her divorce, and just the time period she lived in was harder for her accomplish things with the way women were viewed at the time... she was very smart and capable.” In 1945, the New Haven Restaurant Association sought out Frances Roth to head up a culinary school in New Haven, and Roth accepted.

Katharine Angell was born in 1890 in Charlotte, North Carolina. She graduated from Queens College in Charlette and from 1910 to 1911 she attended Finch School in New York City.

Katharine had six children with her first husband Paul Woodman who died in 1930. Katharine married James Rowland Angell, the president of Yale, in 1932.

Semenchuk describes Angell as, “the social outgoing, funny hostess, who was more so the fundraiser for the school and was a huge part of the community.”

In 1946 her and Frances Roth founded the New Haven Culinary Institute, which would become the Culinary Institute of America.

itself is ginormous and actionpacked with a movie-poster-like specials booklet and items written in both Japanese and English.

Kenka’s specials menu offers a 20-minute jumbo curry eating challenge along with the likes of pork brains and a fried udon of intestines. Moving onto their regular menu, the dishes showcase Japan’s best street food offerings and classics of the nation.

No sushi rolls can be seen, but rather authentic sashimi combos, grilled noodles and meat – anything ending in -yaki, fried foods, stews, and hot pots line the page with impressive pictures. Sashimi, oden, gyoza, okonomiyaki, takoyaki, teriyaki, katsudon - you name it, they have it. The bar also has extensive offerings including unique cocktail combos and an $8 pitcher of beer that restaurant goers rave about. Once ordered, the waiter brings the ticket over to the kitchen, calls out the order in Japanese, and gets an enthusiastic call back from the chefs.

When I found Kenka, I was in search of a Japanese restaurant to satisfy an okonomiyaki craving. Having had one from the land of okonomiyaki in Osaka, Japan, I definitely had high expectations for it. The okonomiyaki, which translates to “grilled as you like it,” is a Japanese savory pancake layered with batter, shredded cabbage, slices of meat, and various topppings. It came out on a sizzling plate, topped with bonito flakes, pickled red ginger, delicious okonomiyaki sauce, and a warm mayonnaise drizzle. It was not in completely distinct layers like the original one I had in Japan, but rather was all mixed into one batter and cooked. The pancake was thick

and soft with shredded carrots, cabbage, and onion, strewn with chewy squid pieces, thin pork slices, and accented with umamifilled toppings. Not what I had expected, but it hit the spot in all the right places.

Besides the okonomiyaki, I had also ordered a few other sides. The Gyu Tataki – rare beef with ponzu – came out first with a beautiful plate presentation: grilled beef atop raw shredded onions, with minced garlic, micro greens, sliced lemon and lettuce on the side. The slight bitterness of the garlic balanced out the tender meat splashed in ponzu sauce.

Hotate Butter – grilled scallops in butter – was absolutely delicious.

Perfectly crisp, large scallops steamed in its dish before melting in the mouth with its richness.

To cleanse the palate, I had a side of Asa Zuke - traditional pickled vegetables including radish, carrot, cucumber and cabbage leant sharp tangs of acidity as I ate through the night. However, the fun doesn’t end right with the meal. With the check comes a small cup of candy sugar to spin on a chopstick in the cotton candy machine outside the door to take along as a souvenir.

Was it worth it to have found Kenka? Yes. Would it have been more fun with other people?

Absolutely. The late night atmosphere of Kenka is not to be missed with all your friends looking for an adventure in the streets of East Village. Bring a hungry crowd, partake in a few wild food challenges while having a blast, and experience a small bit of Japan through the wild and crazy charms of Kenka. Do not miss out!

Frances Roth served as administrative director from 1946 to 1966. Semenchuk said that the role of administrative director is similar to the role of president.

Angell served on the Board of Trustees as president and chairman from 1946 to 1966. Roth and Angell worked hard to make their culinary school run effectively and provide returning war veterans the proper skill set to get a job in the restaurant industry.

Angell created the school’s first financial aid program, as well as helped start a culinary reference library for the students of the New Haven Culinary Institute.

Due to the heavy promotion of the school from Angell and Roth and the concurrent attention the school recieved, the name of the New Haven Culinary Institute was soon changed to the Culinary Institute of America. The school gained many students; only five years both women retired, the school moved its location to the current Hyde Park campus.

Katharine Angell de-

scribed the goal of the CIA as, “to train young men and women to become expert cooks and chefs.”

What many people do not realize is that our school had female students from the day it started.

Nicole Semenchuk said, “There was at least one woman in every class, and there were two classes a year. The program was different back then; the program was nine months to a year.” There have always been women students at the CIA, even though women were outnumbered by men, since the school was founded to help returning World War II veterans attain stable jobs. Semenchuk also pointed out that there were female teachers at the CIA from the beginning too, except they taught academic classes like nutrition while there were only male chefs teaching cooking classes. Even Frances Roth would teach some academic classes that dealt with law.

Katharine Angell and Frances Roth were two powerhouse women who didn’t know

Top: Okonomiyaki, a Japanese pancake. Bottom: Gyu Tataki, a rare beef dish. photo courtesy: Cindy Yuong

at the time that the school they founded would completely change the restaurant industry.

Over time, a baking program was started, and with all the attention the school received for providing such well-trained students, the restaurant industry was looked on with more prestige than before.

Semenchuk described the work Roth and Angell did as, “leaving a culinary foot print.”

It is amazing to think of how far our school has come since its founding in 1946. We went from having once campus with one female per start date, to having four campuses and 16 different start dates at our Hyde Park Campus, For the first time, we have more female students enrolled than males. Our school has come a long way since its founding, but it would not be what it is today without the hard work and dedication of Frances Roth and Katharine Angell.

The Roman Catholic Chapel of Our Lady of the Way (La Madonna della Strada)

Holy Mass Sundays 10:00AM & Noon Holy Days 12:00PM Chaplain: Father Marc Oliver chaplainua@gmail.com Office: 845-331-0436 Cellular: 845-594-9111

ON CAMPUS

March 24, 2017

Features

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cont’d from front

From L/R: Dock to Dish Creator Sean Barrett; The team shows off a catch.

in Montauk, having worked with Dan Barber of Blue Hill at Stone Barns and Scott Chaskey at Quail Hill Farm, where the “farm to table” concept evolved into “dock to dish”.

The original initiative was simply a community-supported fishery (CSF), based on the community-supported agriculture (CSA) model, and the first of its kind in New York. Dan Barber crafted an additional new program with Sean, the first restaurant-supported fishery (RSF) in the world. Sean’s fishermen supply top-quality fish, always delivered within 24 hours and never frozen. At Dock to Dish, they only offer sustainable seafood by only fishing for underutilized and abundant species, and working with multiple agencies to ensure that remains true. They are also sustainable in their methods – only using pole- and spearfishing to prevent bycatch and sea floor damage. This also made them a supply-based restaurant purveyor, reversing away from the traditional demand-based motivation as a purveyor.

They supply seafood to 15 restaurants in New York, including Dan Barber’s Blue Hill at Stone Barns, Eric Ripert’s Le Bernadin, Danny Meyer’s Gramercy Tavern, April Bloomfield’s John Dory Oyster Bar, and Mario Batali’s Manzo at Eataly. Their waiting list has over 250 New York restaurants alone. Google’s Chelsea office also demands ten times the volume of a typical shipment to one restaurant, a staggering

volume of fish. Whatever Sean brings in the chefs will take, whether it be Atlantic butterfish, sea robins, triggerfish, or cocktail bluefish. Chefs love these underutilized (and historically bycatch) fish, and the public, once mostly wary, are now specifically asking for them too.

Sean Barrett grew up around the freshest fish. His parents said they’d send him to basketball camp and he would return home with a “best fisherman” trophy. He’s worked in fisheries and restaurants since he was young, including his family’s tavern, where he learned to stand his ground in a kitchen. He grew up around one of the first CSAs in New York, Quail Hill Farm, founded by Scott Chaskey.

Chaskey’s book, This Common Ground, made him think, “could CSAs work for seafood?” Scott then helped them start their CSF in 2012, and Sean said it skyrocketed from there. It became so popular that right away he had over 100 families with a 300-family waiting list. Sean brought the idea of adding restaurants into the mix to Dan Barber. The pair piloted it at Stone Barns, where philosophically it was a perfect fit, matching ideally with the force behind The Third Plate.

Dan Barber developed Sean’s idea to work for other restaurants, and immediately got on the phone. Dan personally called Eric Ripert, April Bloomfield, and half a dozen other top chefs. With his reputation and his insight as to which chefs would join in, he

quickly got them on board. Dan Barber also guided Dock to Dish through some operational kinks.

The first couple of times, they delivered the fish to Le Bernadin around noon, which was too late in the day. Sean didn’t realize they served lunch there and the fish should have been delivered much earlier, around 7:45 am. So they strolled in, excited to deliver some beautiful fish, and didn’t realize – the staff was ready to go for service, without the fish.

Once the operation became replicable, they started branching out all over the US, now operating in Washington, D.C., Los Angeles, San Francisco, Vancouver, and Costa Rica.

In California, they’re known for serving Michael Cimarusti’s Providence and Thomas Keller’s French Laundry. They always deliver within a 150-mile radius of the source, with an average of only 70 miles’ distance. In Vancouver, they average 11 miles away and in Costa Rica, it’s only 7 miles from the dock. They end up with the smallest carbon footprint of any distribution system in their class.

This month, Dock to Dish is launching a Kickstarter campaign for what they name Dock to Dish 2.0. They want to show transparency through traceability by introducing the first real-time seafood tracking system.

It shows the fishing boats arriving just like watching an Uber pull up to your door. You can see information on the fishermen’s names, history, license numbers, favorite

From L/R: The Dock to Dish team loads the van with fresh seafood; A Dock to Dish member poses for a photo.

photo courtesy: Mike Feist, Victoria Smith of Dock to Dish

fish, recipes, and more.

They’re partnering with Google and the system will display on Dock to Dish’s website.

The program has the potential to display on member restaurants’ websites or on a tablet at guests’ tables. Blue Hill already does similar demonstrations for guests, including showing videos of Sean and Dan’s crews out on the fishing boats. Sean hopes this transparency will spread to other types of purveyors, so he’s making everything open-source and easy to replicate.

I asked Sean about his personal philosophy. The work is hard, laboring on boats and docks, hauling and lifting. He admits to questioning his career, like many chefs do after a long and exhausting day. Sean questions his work more when he’s waiting through miles of traffic on the LIE before dawn, hoping to get to the Manhattan restaurants on time. However, he reminds himself that his products feel like preventative medicine, as good fish is fresh, clean, and healthful. With his program, he can check off all the boxes for sustainable, traceable, hyperlocal, and seasonal fish. So for the families and restaurant guests he feeds, he knows they can have a wholesome, delicious, and nutritious meal to end a hard day’s work. That idea is what keeps him going – knowing he’s making a difference.

He’s also excited about the nation getting back to its roots of locally-sourced food. It’s partly why he and Dan Barber are such

good friends. Together, they also created the Squanto Project at Stone Barns, which started when Sean ended up with scraps from filleting fish for the CSF. Squanto and other Native Americans taught the early colonists that if you fertilize the earth with fish, crops will grow larger and stronger. Sean and Dan applied that knowledge to the compost for Stone Barns’ fields, and together with a switch from cardboard to reusable plastic containers for the seafood, they eliminated nearly all their waste . They started teasing the Stone Barns farmers later that fall, having to harvest “Jurassic Park-sized produce” – due to the fish from the spring before.

Dock to Dish also works heavily with CIA alumni; Sean estimates that 75 or 80% of his restaurants’ chefs have graduated from the school. One of his closest mentors, William Rosenzweig, directs the CIA’s new Food Business School and is an Advisory Board Member.

The outlook of local seafood finally looks promising. So many fish populations have been soaring over the past two or three years; fish like porgy and bluefish are both at 150% of their target populations. Sean says we now have the largest and most diverse population of sustainable fish in US waters that we’ve had in generations. And with a blueprint for fresh, traceable, and environmentally-friendly seafood supplies, the food industry has a bright future.

photo courtesy: Mike Feist, Victoria Smith of Dock to Dish

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LA PAPILLOTE

Feature

(Don’t) Fear the Critic

BY: Amanda Lamperti AOS Culinary

Food writer turned restaurant critic Pete Wells of the New York Times earned his respect from people both heavily involved in the New York City food world as well as followers of his work throughout the country. Readers of the Times often resort to Wells as the go-to guru of all things to know in the NYC food scene when searching for the right restaurant to make reservations for a Saturday night dinner. The attraction to these artfully crafted words of wisdom published weekly from Wells can come from the curiosity of seeing which restaurants are rising above the rest, and it is arguable that some readers simply wish to have their appetite satiated by his raw display of sarcasm. Nevertheless, it is agreed that Wells holds the talent of “telling it like it is” while keeping his reviews both constructive for the restaurant and entertaining for the readers - and people love it. This is not something that is easy to do, which is why Wells is the perfect guy for the job. Chefs are intimidated by him, restauranteurs try too hard to please him, and waiters run the other way when they see him sitting in the dining room.

But why? He is just an average guy with a normal opinion, but has the power to use that opinion to make or break a restaurant. So yes, he kind of is a big deal, but the way people who are affected by food critics in general view them as tyrannical, aggressive, and just plain mean. This one person can put a lot of stress on a lot of people, but if these people took the time to understand the logic of Pete Wells and others in the business, they might change their minds.

To start off, Mr. Wells is strictly a writer; and a fair one at that. In a recent phone interview with La Papillote he explains, “I got into this to write. I started off as a writer, then the food kind of came later.” Wells worked his way up in the columns of the New York Times and started to write about food, which obviously fared well for him. He now has what any student at the CIA would consider a dream job, eating his way through NYC, all on someone else’s dime. He goes into restaurants as a reporter and writes about his experience, with no favoritism or other opinions in his head. He continues saying, “I think people imagine that a food critic is supposed to be sitting there looking for faults, and you do see them, but what you’re really trying to do is experience the restaurant. Whatever experience they’re offering, you’re trying to have it.” No pre-judgements, no early predicaments on his part. “I don’t read other people’s reviews.

I don’t even read that much of the publicity, or sort of pre-opening criticism. Sometimes I go into these places knowing nothing.”

Going into each and every restaurant with a clean slate and open mind means that anything can either charm Wells into writing a blissful article of praise or a rather bitter review full of more sarcasm than usual.

And as far as Wells’ relationships with the chefs, no bribery or favoritism is allowed.

When he writes an article that does not go over so well with the chefs, he stays calm to explain the backlash he receives from his merely honest report of their restaurant. Wells says, “There aren’t many chefs in New York City who I would consider a ‘buddy’… Sometimes chefs will write back whether it is a good review or a bad review. The worst that will happen to me is that chefs will lash out at me in public, but that’s really rare. But I don’t mind if they do that. [One restauranteur wrote to me] saying that I shouldn’t be doing my job and the Times was making a mistake by employing me.” Chefs will be some of the most fiery and passionate people you will ever meet, and Wells’ calm personality and ‘cut to the chase’ take on his influential job is a balancing act in the restaurant industry. He proves to be the less selfish and attention-focused partner in this duo of food critics and the emotional chefs of New York City. But what irritates Wells are the selfcentered chefs that use the dining room as a stage and the guests an audience to fuel their ego. “There are these restaurants where the chef is taking himself or herself so seriously and they forget that people aren’t just sitting there to applaud you all night. They want the show to be all about them, and it shouldn’t be that way.”

But no matter what the cuisine, starred ranking, or generalized fame a restaurant holds that Wells is reviewing, he extends that the most important factor is that they deliver what they promise to their guests. Wells reviewed Senor Frogs, a not so high-class restaurant- chain bar located near Times Square and they received a great review… and they do not even have a chef to run the place.

How in the world did that happen? According to Wells, his logic on judging these two extremes is quite simple. “A lot of it has to do with what the restaurant is promising you and what they deliver.

Senor Frogs wasn’t really promising that much on the storefront, you know.” Wells laughs. “It wasn’t saying it was this new interpretation of, I don’t even know what it would be, Spring Break Cuisine? They were promising the drinks would be large, and they were. And that there would be wild, weird entertainment, and there was. For what they set out to do, they did it.”

When recalling the fame Per Se’s article retained, he says “I knew it was going to be talked

about a lot in the restaurant business and at your school. People who are following the industry were going to be intensely interested in that. But what I did not know was that it was going to be read by so many people who don’t really follow restaurants and had no intention of eating at Per Se. It took off in this scale that I wasn’t predicting.” When discussing the remarks of his reviews in general, he says, “It’s nice to be read. I don’t really enjoy a backlash at all. When it’s a negative review, it makes me a little bit uncomfortable when people are cheering.

It’s negative, but it’s not being cheered at the restaurant, for sure.

In the restaurant, I see people’s faces where I don’t want to see people laughing at them. And I write to make people laugh, so go figure.”

So if there is one thing that must be done to impress Pete Wells, it is complete honesty and sense of realness in every aspect of the restaurant. That does not sound so mean coming from someone dubbed “America’s most dangerous restaurant critic.” To further his defense, when asked whether Wells preferred to construct his insults while writing his articles or if they were spur of the moment during his meal, he could not quite decide. “Sometimes there are things I think while I am eating, sometimes it’s things I think of when I’m sitting down taking my notes. It’s kind of better if it happens at the spur of the moment. It’s fresher, and it could be more accurate.

And do not think that Wells enjoys special treatment because of his title. The need to ensure everything for Mr. Wells is absolutely perfect at all times is unrealistic, and he is certainly aware of it. “There is refilling the water glass at the table every time someone takes a sip. They just must not realize how irritating that is. It’s distracting; every time you pick up your water glass, it doesn’t need to be refilled if it’s just gone down one eighth of an inch. But [as a reporter] you also have to pay attention to how everyone else is eating. Just looking around the room, how other tables are being treated.”

Wells finishes off by saying, “I’m not writing them a report card. I’m not writing them to give them a sense of how to improve their business. I’m really writing for the reader.” Nothing that Wells says is meant by any tyrannical, aggressive, or just plain mean things people assume are his intentions. He laughs, saying, “Well, there’s the job and then there’s the person. And it’s never been personal for me, and I think it’s hard sometimes for chefs to realize that. It’s personal for them.”

March Career Fair

BY: Timothy Slavin, AOS Culinary

The CIA’s Spring Career Fair got off to a frigid start, but nonetheless was another incredible opportunity for networking with leading companies spanning the globe. Despite the two day delay to the event, over 100 restaurants, hotels, country clubs, and many other hospitality related properties were on campus to recruit CIA students. Companies such as Hyatt, Four Seasons, The Little Nell, The French Laundry, Blue Hill, and many others were here to talk with students. Whether you are looking for an externship, a stage, or a job after graduation, there were many interesting companies to speak with. I had the opportunity to interview a couple of the companies represented and ask why they invest so many resources in recruiting students from the CIA.

The first person I interviewed was Jessica Woodson from Bonura Hospitality Group.

Bonura has many businesses located in the Hudson Valley region such as Anthony’s Pier 9 in New Windsor, NY, Shadows on the Hudson in Poughkeepsie, NY, and Blu Pointe in Newburgh, NY. “We’ve been coming to the CIA for 5 years because of the quality of the students here,” Jessica says. Because of the proximity of their concepts to the CIA campus, it makes perfect sense for Bonura to focus on recruiting from the school. One of the people representing Bonura in addition to Jessica was John Chamorro, a CIA graduate. “I met John at a CIA career fair and he ended up working

for us after school. He is now the Wine Director for Blue Pointe.”

It was inspiring to see the type of impact that a graduate from CIA can have so immediately upon a company.

Tami Stephan from Omega Institute for Holistic Studies was also on campus interviewing students for externships and jobs. Omega is a holistic retreat located in Rhinebeck that focus on healthy, sustainable eating, meditation, yoga, and other holistic studies. They have several CIA alumni that have worked for them, including their previous two chefs. When I asked Tami what sets apart students from the CIA versus students from other schools or employees lacking in formal training, she said, “The professionalism that the students display sets them apart. They care about what sustainability and what we are doing. They are real go-getters.” These, among other qualities, are what has brought Omega to CIA’s career fairs for the last four years.

Maybe you aren’t ready to start looking for an externship or job post-graduation, but it is always a great idea to network and talk to recruiters at the career fair.

Many of them have stood where you are, and can answer any questions you might have about life after CIA, and what kind of career path you might take. If you missed this one, the next career fair is scheduled for June 5th.

Dress nice, bring resumes, and dream big!

Students attending the March career fair in the SRC gym. photo courtesy: www.ciachef.edu

March 24, 2017

Pro Tips for National Nutrition Month

Feature

BY: Francesca Zani, AOS Culinary

March is National Nutrition Month. It is very difficult to focus on diets and healthy eating habits when life is constantly moving. Most people know what basic nutrition entails; fruits, vegetables, grains, protein, dairy, and plenty of water. Physical therapist Dr. Justin Feldman, offers his patients advice on how to control nutrition in situations where physical health is concerned. Dr. Feldman is one of the Hudson Valley’s most popular physical therapists. He has offices located in Lagrange and Fishkill, and continues to use a number of techniques to help heal his patients. Feldman graduated from Ithaca College and then went on to further his work in the field.

Throughout his career, he often came upon misleading information about nutrition and wanted to know the true facts. After taking online classes, Dr. Feldman received certification as a nutrition coach through Precision Nutrition. The program gave him the expertise to educate his patients in sports nutrition, without having to become a dietitian. He works with five to seven patients each day, seeing them once per week for an hour as opposed to two or three times weekly. Many of his patients are between the ages of twenty and sixty - “the weekend athletes”. His client programs are focused on manual therapy, nutrition and exercise.

Dr. Justin Feldman has offices located in Lagrange and Fishkill.

Just a quick reminder of the basic nutritional guidelines we must follow daily according to the My Plate government guidelines; two to three cups of vegetables, one to two cups of fruit, five to six ounces of protein, three cups of dairy, five to eight ounces of

cont’d from front

Top: Star Anise. Bottom: Just Keep Swimming. photo courtesy: Jessica Hasapis

photo courtesy: www.patch.com

grains. These serving sizes may slightly change depending on the age group. Along with proper nutrition, we must drink plenty of water per day, which is challenging for many. “The nutrition each patient needs will help speed up their recovery,” notes Feldman.

He spoke of athletes who get injured, avoid activity for weeks, gain weight, and have a difficult time getting back into their routine once recovered due to lack of nutrition. Active or not, this idea reveals how important it is to stay in tune with a nutritious diet.

cups of steaming chowder were delicious on their own, the garnishes put them over the top.

Such additions included freshlybaked, moist, crab shaped corn biscuits, crisp potato sticks, and charred corn. After sampling as many cups of chowder as one could handle and dropping their ballots into the bucket of the team whose chowder they liked the best, guests gathered around to witness the great oyster shucking and eating contest. With contestants signing up earlier in the day, they were organized into three separate rounds. Each person was given a platter of ten oysters with a cutting board, towel and oyster shucker. After being prompted to start, each contestant began prying open and flipping over each of their oysters as quickly as possible until the victor dropped his shucker and shot his arms up in pride. The winner from each of the three rounds then returned for a face off, with techniques being displayed such as the use of a glove to allow in-hand shucking and bending to be at table height.

The last round ended in a tie with two contestants finishing too close for a clear winner to be de-

cided upon. This then led to a five oyster shuck off to reveal the true winner. The festivities didn’t end there; something had to be done with all those shucked oysters, so three rounds of brave contestants lined off to slurp down oysters with a concoction of cocktail and hot sauces that made some turn bright red. While both competitions excited the guests, all ballots - including the judges and the common people - were being tallied in the background. The humming of the mechanical shark was soon ceased, the bands equipment were packed away, and all contestants gathered in the middle of the carpeted gym anxiously awaiting the big reveal. In addition to first second and third place, other categories included: people ‘s choice, showmanship (based on the ascetic of their booths and costumes) and professionalism based on timeliness of ordering, cleanliness and overall attitude throughout the competition. After weeks of making decorations, two days of food preparation and full day of cooking and greeting the Chowder Cook Off Winners were finally revealed to be :

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Dr. Feldman noted that inflammatory foods can and will slow down the progression to healing. According to a Harvard Health Publication, examples of inflammatory foods include refined white flour, sugar products, fried foods, sodas and drinks with added sugar, processed meat and cheeses, and margarine. “What we should consume more of,” adds Dr. Feldman, “are avocados, fish oil, olive oil, tart cherry juice, beets, and turmeric, which decrease inflammation.” During our interview, I asked Dr. Feldman if he had any healthy protein shake recipes. I discovered Feldman is not an advocate for powdered protein shakes and would rather see patients eating locally sourced food, whole fruits, and veggies. While clients are rehabilitating he offers them a challenge - “Try to go as many days in a row where you consume fourteen fruits and vegetables.” This is a health effort we all should seek in our lives!

Dr. Justin Feldman has many years of practice in sports therapy and nutrition. If you are interested in finding a center for physical therapy, he is the person you should consider visiting.

Professionalism Award – Finding Flounder ( Team 3) Showmanship Award-Crusty Clam ( Team 14) People’s Choice- Star Anise ( Team 2) 3rd Place Overall-Straight out of Clamton ( Team 8) 2nd Place Overall- Bivalve & The Crawdaddies ( Team 11) 1st Place Overall – Just Keep Swimming ( Team 1 )

It’s clear to see the 16th Annual Chowder Cook-off was an exciting time for both the competitors and guests. Congratulations to all the teams that participated, and especially to those who placed. Next year, don’t be afraid to submit your own recipe or come and have a fun time at the CIA’s Annual Chowder Cook Off.

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LA PAPILLOTE

Entertainment

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Excellent turn key opportunity for Chef and Pastry Chef team.

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March 24, 2017

Entertainment

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10

LA PAPILLOTE

Graduation

AOS Graduating Class of March 24, 2017 Culinary Arts Group #1 Front Row: William Brunbough, Carlos Cabral, Sang Bum Kim, Eduardo Salgado Guevara Back Row: Anthony Sorrentino, Philsoo Lee, Hannah Claire Wallace, India Powell Rose, Tarik Rodrigues, Victoria Ko

Culinary Arts Group #2 Front Row: Samuel T. Lopez, Tessa Ackley, Destiny Conveniencia, Lyane Cuesta, Linda Miller, Krystal Hannigan, Michael Bauer, Francesca Zani Back Row: Nicole Cody, Garett Schiaurz, Jongin Kim, Jonathan Hicklin, David Nassear, TupYo Han, Kiwon Lee, David Wiley, Conrad R. Goldman, Holly Prencire, Logan Alabech

Culinary Arts Group #3 Front Row: Jun Kim, Ihpzo Hong, Jessica Tibbetts, Bella Suna, Juliana S Imperati, Ahhyuh Ji, Mink Yung Han, Nylan Brooks Back Row: Annamaria Lacertosa, Joshua Norman, Joshua Blochowski, Jess Hinton, Kamoy Gumbs, Luke Powell, Darryl Smith, Elijah Cronin, Andrew Vandergrift, Reid Johannse, Andrew Pretrobono, Michael Frank, Kizhae Khan

Baking & Pastry Arts Front Row: Katelyn Adams, Baylee Mello, Kristin Branhguynne, Lyndsey Gordano, Gabrielle Sanchez, Yashita Chaudhri, Olivia Almavira, Courtney Adams Back Row: Cara Covett, Cheyenne Whitacre, Charlotte Levesque, Veronica Buzelle, Kylie Barrows, Abigail Green, Shannon MGuire, Jess Sigwort, Victoria Matos, Ashley Santovo

March 24, 2017

Graduation

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AOS Graduation Speaker: Bryce Shuman Former Executive Chef of Betony

BY: Shelly Loveland, Staff Contributor

Chef Bryce Shuman has made a career of leading and working in some of the country’s top restaurant kitchens to great industry acclaim.

Originally from Chapel Hill, NC, Chef Shuman was introduced to the restaurant world as a dishwasher at Mesh Café in Greenville, NC. He quickly fell in love with the kitchen and moved up through the ranks to become the restaurant’s chef de cuisine before moving to San Francisco in 2002 to hone his culinary skills. Working first for Wolfgang Puck at Postrio and then for Stuart Brioza and Nicole Krasinski at Rubicon, Chef Shuman learned the importance of cooking with the finest ingredients and always from the heart. He also earned his degree from the California Culinary Academy while working nights at Postrio.

Returning to the East Coast, Chef Shuman joined Daniel Humm’s team at Elev-

en Madison Park in New York City in 2007. During his six years as sous chef and executive sous chef for the restaurant, Eleven Madison Park garnered four stars from The New York Times, three Michelin stars, and a top 5 placement on the S. Pellegrino World’s 50 Best Restaurants listing.

In 2013, Chef Shuman was hired as executive chef along with Eamon Rockey ’06 as maître d’ to transform the former Brasserie Pushkin into a new venue. The result was the sophisticated, finedining Betony, which opened later that year. Under Chef Shuman’s leadership, Betony soon earned three stars from The New York Times, one Michelin star, Restaurant of the Year honors from Esquire magazine, and a Best New Restaurant nomination from the James Beard Foundation.

In 2015, he was named a Food & Wine Best New Chef and

recognized as one of New York City’s Rising Star Chefs

by StarChefs.com.

Active in his community and industry, Bryce Shuman is a supporter of Careers Through Culinary Arts (C-CAP), No Kid Hungry, and Cookies for Kids’ Cancer. He has leant his talents as a judge at the New York City Cochon 555 competition, served as a guest instructor at Macy’s DeGustibus Cooking School, and cooked at the James Beard House and several food and wine festivals. In 2010, Chef Shuman competed in a season 5 episode of the Food Network’s Chopped.

photo couresy of Leslie Jennings

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LA PAPILLOTE

Sustainability

The Leafy Green Machine

BY: Ethan Reynolds, AOS Culinary

Modern hydroponic farming is the practice of growing plants in nutrient-dense water instead of soil. This practice has been in existence since the early 20th century. It’s a true agricultural breakthrough, The idea of producing food in climate-controlled indoor facilities, with no need for soil, opens up a myriad of possibilities for farmers to improve efficiency and to grow any type of food at any time of year.

Commonly, hydroponic farming is organized in a greenhouse-like environment. Natural sunlight provides the plants with the ability to photosynthesize, and these plants are fortified by the nutrient-packed water that immerses their roots. Usually, these plants will be situated on large horizontal beds of water. The water itself is blocked from the sunlight to allow the plants access to light but prevent algal growth beneath the surface of the water.

Freight Farms is a company that has expounded upon this farming technology in a truly unique way. Their idea was this: create a self-contained vertical hydroponic system in a shipping

container measuring 320 square feet. This shipping container holds nearly everything needed to produce 4,500 plants simultaneously, yielding the same amount of food as two acres of farmland.

This is 270 times more space-efficient, a truly remarkable improvement. The portable farm was fondly dubbed the Leafy Green Machine. Though it can grow many kinds of plants including strawberries and sugar snap peas, these plants do not truly fit the design of the farm. It is best suited for growing leafy greens such as lettuce, herbs, and brassicas such as cabbage or kale.

The structure of the Leafy Green Machine is built around making the most of a tiny space. The incubation area, where plants are grown from seed to sproutling, is housed underneath a functional work table which can be used to organize and pack the mature plants. Instead of a horizontal growing system, the crops are grown vertically, then each mature seedling is placed into a slot on a hollow tower. The roots are fed by a flow of specially enhanced water that flows within

the tower, from top to bottom.

There are many of these towers in the shipping container, and each is set on a rolling track so that they may be moved towards the work table when it comes time to harvest. The plants will then grow out from the towers instead of up from the ground, which allows much more to be planted in a tiny space.

The farm is almost completely automated. The walls are insulated and the climate is computer-controlled, and the plants are “fed” by red and blue LED lights which turn on and off to regulate photosynthesis as the system determines. Furthermore, the enhanced water is recycled throughout the system. With this system, the farm needs less than five gallons of water to function for an entire day. Sensors within the farm measure the properties of the environment, and these measurements are used to adjust the climate as needed. The entire system can be controlled via an app, which makes it a practically hands-off operation. The farm needs only about 15-20 hours of labor per week to stay running,

Top: Freight Farms focuses on utilizing space. Bottom: Greens grow in the incubator.

which is significantly lower than many farmers today. The isolated nature of the shipping container makes it so that pests are hardly an issue; therefore, pesticides do not need to be used. This makes it far more feasible to grow organically.

Due to the climatecontrolled nature of the farming environment, the Leafy Green Machine can grow crops in virtually any part of the world and at any time of year. Each farm sells for the comparatively reasonable price of $85,000, with an added yearly cost of $13,000 in upkeep and supplies. This price point makes it practical for entrepreneurs to buy, and build a business around, one or more of these farms.

A small business owner and Vietnam War veteran by the name of Jerry Martin started a farm aptly named Vet Veggies in Springdale, Arkansas. The company serves as an example and an encouragement for recent veterans to rejoin the workforce in the hydroponic farming industry.

Vet Veggies grows butter head lettuce,= which is distributed to

several local grocery chains.

In urban East Boston, a couple formed a business around four Leafy Green Machines. Corner Stalk Farm brings forth produce that the couple then sells at their well-loved neighborhood retail shop, Boston Public Market. By building a farm in such an urban environment, they provide their customers with truly locally grown, fresh produce while simultaneously improving their community.

Hydroponics have been at the forefront of the agricultural zeitgeist for some time now, so it’s only a matter of course that the innovative minds of this millennium would apply themselves to revealing the extent of possibilities that exist in soil-less farming. If Freight Farms continues to gain traction as a company, the reach of hydroponic farms can only grow wider and fresh food could be grown in unfarmable sections of the world, feeding scientists in Antarctica or underprivileged children in the deserts of Kenya.

photo courtesy: www.freightfarms.com, www.wefunder.com,