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COMPLIMENTARY COPY - issue 3 - December 2012/January 2013
Inspiring travel and lifestyle
RAJASTHAN the Royalty Land South Africa
private luxury in the bush
Total guide
New York glamour
Mozambique
self drive adventure
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™ A R E U S E D U N D E R L I C E N C E F R O M T H E D E B E E R S G R O U P O F C O M PA N I E S .
F M - N OV- R
Shemer Jewellers, Orient Jewellers, Damjee Jewellers, Jewellery Design Company and Adara.
editor
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LETTER F
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s the year draws to an end we are all looking forward to getting off the treadmill and decamping to an idyllic holiday destination. A new year also brings the possibility of exploring new destinations. We trust this edition of LATITUDE will inspire you to plan your next holiday. We have compiled a few of the best places to visit during the next few months and ten things we think are worth doing in 2013. Fancy a drive up the coast of Mozambique for some summer sun and adventure? We have the perfect route all planned out. If your idea of adventure is more about ancient temples, mystical palaces and luxurious spas, you’re going love Rajasthan as explored through the eyes of Lucy Corne, intrepid adventurer and Lonely Planet writer. Put on your Manolo’s and step out New York style with Big Apple resident Leora Novick who divulges the city’s best kept secrets. Or, stay in South Africa for a luxuriously romantic Out of Africa experience in your private home away from home in the bush. 2012 was an exciting year for us. Our dream has taken light. We are looking forward to exploring 2013 and all the new destinations that are waiting to be discovered. Until then, keep visiting www.latitudemag.co.za for the latest travel news and tips, and the digital copy of the magazine. Visit our Facebook page for up to date travel tips, tales and competitions.
Astrid ASTRID STARK, EDITOR-IN-CHIEF
LATITUDE MAGAZINE is published by GAIA GROUP Pty Ltd DESIGN AND LAYOUT: PUBLISHER: Nicole Fuchs - nicole@creative low.co.za Robin Ancilotto - robin@latitudemag.co.za ADVERTISING SALES & MARKETING MANAGER: MANAGING EDITOR: Zelda Botha - adv@latitudemag.co.za - Tel: +27 (0)83 731 0510 Romolo Bali - romolo@latitudemag.co.za CONTRIBUTORS: EDITOR: Leora Novick, Ela Hoevenaars, Malu Lambert, Lucy Corne, Astrid Stark - astrid@latitudemag.co.za Fabrizio Rinversi COPY EDITOR: CONTRIBUTING PHOTOGRAPHERS: Caroline Cowan - cc@carolinecowancopy.com Guillaume Gaudet, Andrew Gorman, Francesca Guazzo ONLINE EDITOR: PRINTED BY: Sandy Mitchell - info@sandymitchell.co.za Hirt & Carter CAPE TOWN HEAD OFFICE: 20, Stowe Crescent, Silvertree Estate, Tokai - P.O. Box 177, Private bag X26, Tokai 7966 - info@latitudemag.co.za Latitude Magazine is published bimonthly by GAIA GROUP info@latitudemag.co.za and distributed nationwide. Copyright subsists in all work published in Latitude magazine. We welcome submissions but retain the unrestricted right to change any received copy. We are under no obligation to return unsolicited manuscripts. The magazine, or part thereof, may not be reproduced or adapted without the prior written permission of the publisher. We take care to ensure that our articles, and other editorial content, are accurate and balanced, but cannot accept responsibility for loss,LATI damage or inconvenience that 2012 // JANUARY 2013 UDE l DECEMBER may arise from reading them.
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TRAVELLING THE GLOBE...
Our Contributors
DECEMBER 2012 - JANUARY 2013
LUCY CORNE is a freelance writer with incurable wanderlust and a passion for the offbeat. Her itchy feet have taken her to over 40 countries across every continent bar Antarctica. As well as writing guidebooks for Lonely Planet, Dorling Kindersley and Bradt, her travel features have been published in a range of newspapers and magazines around the world. In this issue Lucy shares with us her knowledge of Rajasthan.
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Winter Shopping CAROLINE COWAN is a freelance writer, copywriter and editor. She spends most of her time perfecting what businesses want to say about their brands. She has written for clients on a wide range of subjects from travel to financial solutions to building development. Having spent three years living in Mozambique, Caroline is our perfect guide to this beautiful country.
LEORA NOVICK is a freelance travel writer based in New York City with an extensive background in fashion. A former executive for Burberry, she now comments on style around the world at An American Girl in Transit. She is most interested in the different definitions of beauty around the world. In this issue Leora tells us about NYC best fashion tips.
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42 RAJASTHAN The Royalty Land
26 MOZAMBIQUE
Self drive adventure
Private luxury in the bush GUILLAUME GAUDET is a New York-based commercial and editorial photographer. After a career in public relations in Paris, he moved to New York in 2006. New York is his favourite playground, where he does not tire of photographing the smallest detail. Through light, architecture or a life scene, in each of his photos he tries to capture a small part of the city’s soul and energy.
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FRANCESCA GUAZZO’s journey in Africa began with her Architectural thesis on Ilha de Moçambique. In 2004, with her husband, she started Africa Wild Truck, a tour operator specialising in photographic expeditions. Over 10 years Francesca has travelled an equivalent of four times around the world, in Africa alone. Along with collaborations with specialist magazines such as Africa and PoutPourrì, her photos and drawings have been published in Polaris travel guides to Tanzania, Mozambique, Malawi and Zambia.
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CONTENTS TS T
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Inspiring travel and lifestyle
Regulars
Travel Essentials
04 06 08
Travel Breaking News FROM AROUND THE WORLD
Appointments ‘NOT TO BE MISSED’ INTERNATIONAL EVENTS
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LATITUDE Event GOLFING WITH CHIC MAMAS
Interview LIZ McGRATH
SA Agenda ‘NOT TO BE MISSED’ LOCAL EVENTS
Features
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10 Things to do in... 2013
South Africa PRIVATE LUXURY IN THE BUSH
Mozambique SELF DRIVE ADVENTURE
tried & tasted
58 60 62
Christmas Gift Guide WATCHES AND JEWELS
Plane Beauty IN-FLIGHT BEAUTY TRAVEL KIT
Crazy for Crayfish WEST COAST
Insider’s Guide NEW YORK GLAMOUR
Rajasthan THE ROYALTY LAND
High-class Sidewalks INTERNATIONAL FASHION STREETS
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LATI Travel UDE Essentials
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LATEST TRAVEL INFORMATION FROM AROUND THE WORLD
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IN THE FOOTSTEPS OF A SPY www.007.com/skyfall Visit some of the hotspots made famous by James Bond. On 5 October, VisitBritain launched a campaign that is using Skyfall, the 23rd Bond movie, to encourage travellers to visit famous spy destinations across the UK.
CHILD’S PLAY www.fourseasons.com/mauritius Ernie Els has done it again. Junior golf enthusiasts can take their game to the next level at the Kids’ Golf Academy at Four Seasons Resort Mauritius at Anahita which opened in September. Expert coaching and video swing analysis for kids aged 5-16 years-old.
FLY FURTHER www.qatarairways.com Qatar Airways is joining the oneworld alliance of airlines including, American Airlines, British Airways and nine other carriers that coordinate routes and allow passengers to earn frequent flier miles on each others’ flights.
A BRAVE FAMILY JOURNEY www.pixar.com Disney and Pixar filmmakers have created a tour that will allow fans of their animated heroine, Merida, to follow in her footsteps. The new Brave tour, so named after the movie, was created to take visitors through Scotland’s rugged landscapes and magnificent coastlines.
DEEP SEA DANCING www.premiermaldives.com Get your groove on at the World’s first underwater club in the Maldives. Accessible only by boat, tucked underneath a submerged restaurant, partygoers have stunning views of the abundant sea life. Subsix opened in October in Niyama and international DJ’s will keep the beats going on the underwater dance floor.
INTERNATIONAL LUXURY TRAVEL MARKET www.iltm.net Launching in Cape Town in April 2013, this exclusive, international event will be showcasing the pick of unique lodges, locations, experiences and services in the African luxury travel industry.
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LATI Appointments UDE
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Music Dave Matthews Band New York www.barclayscenter.com
Party New Years’ Eve Event San Francisco www.yapclub.com
JANUARY 05 – 27
Music, Theatre, Art Sydney Festival Sydney www.sydneyfestival.org.au
JANUARY 20 – 22
Food International Chocolate Festival Miami www.fairchildgarden.org
JANUARY 20 – 28
Myth Marilyn Monroe Florence www.museoferragamo.it
JANUARY 16 – 24
Fashion Paris Fashion Week Paris www.modeaparis.com
JAN 25 – FEB 04
Cinema Göteborg International Film Festival Göteborg www.giff.se
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JAN 30 – FEB 03
Beauty Beyond Beauty Arabia Abu Dhabi www.beyondbeautyarabia.com
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Luxury South African Safari Lodge
a mere 4-hour drive from Johannesburg offering an ideal 5-star safari getaway, complete with the pampering Tau Spa Oasis to complement the proliďŹ c game viewing from most of the room and lodge decks overlooking the large waterhole, as well as on game drives.
De-stress in the Tau Spa Oasis, and savour the tranquil views of the bush, complete with birdsong. Whilst Tau is a popular romantic destination, it also offers ideal family-friendly packages and the delicious food always proves popular with guests. The facilities and accommodation at Tau have been luxuriously refurbished and re decorated over recent years to meet the demands of regular as well as new local and international visitors, with 20 standard chalets, 6 deluxe chalets as well as 1 family unit and 1 family suite, complete with a decadent dinosaur egg bath overlooking the waterhole from the mainen-suite.
www.taugamelodge.co.za LATI UDE l DECEMBER 2012 // JANUARY 2013 T
Tau Game Lodge in the Madikwe Reserve is
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AROUND SOUTH AFRICA CAPE TOWN / UNTIL 31 JANUARY
JOURNEY UNDER THE SKIN www.bodyworlds.com Contemplate the ethics of exposed flesh at the Cycle of Life exhibition running at the V&A Waterfront. This exhibit showcases real human bodies, individual organs, organ configurations and transparent body slices flawlessly preserved thanks to a revolutionary method known as plastination.
CAPE TOWN / UNTIL 12 JANUARY
A COLLECTIVE INTERROGATION OF REALITY www.stevenson.info Don’t miss out on Fiction as Fiction, the exhibit where artists explore how fiction relies on reality for it to be of significance, the nature of truth, and other philosophical musings. On display at the Woodstock studio will be the work of artists such as Yto Barrada, Yael Bartana,
Pat Bromilow-Downing
Robin Rhode, Penny Siopis and Kemang Wa Lehulere, and more.
CAPE TOWN / 7 TO 15 DECEMBER
TULBAGH / 8 DECEMBER
CAPE TOWN / UNTIL 31 JANUARY
BODIES IN MOTION www.capedancecompany.co.za
EASY LIVING www.houseofkrone.co.za
AQUAFESTIVAL www.aquafestival.com
Immerse yourself in the delicate world of dance with South African and International neo-classical ballet performers at the Artscape Theatre. Annually, The Dance Company present their finest performers. In 2013 you can look forward to the work of Adele Blank, Bradley Shelver and Christopher L. Huggins.
Raise a glass of bubbly to the end of a busy year at Summer Elegance at the House of Krone. At this stylish event, guests are expected to dress to the nines as they nibble on artisan snacks, watch a fashion show, partake in a game of boules or soak up the summer sun, jazzy live music and exquisite views.
Set on a giant and magical floating stage against the backdrop of Table Mountain, this watery festival will showcase a range of performances: opera, ballet, jazz, rock and more from some of South Africa’s finest performers.
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CAPE TOWN / 7 JANUARY
THOROUGBRED ENTERTAINMENT www.lqp.co.za Equestrian excellence, art and living the glamorous life come together at the annual running of the L’Ormarins Queens Plate. It’s the ultimate social event for celebrity and sport personality spotting. The popular Style Lounge will dish up culinary delights and fine wines. Expect live music and a vintage car display at the Kenilworth Race Track.
CAPE TOWN / 18 JANUARY TO 3 MARCH
THE TIME OF YOUR LIFE www.theatreonthebay.co.za Who can resist singing along to Baby and Johnny’s story told through much-loved songs and hot dancing? Dirty Dancing will be on stage at the Artscape Theatre for our summer delight.
CAPE TOWN / 21 JANUARY TO 23 FEBRUARY
STELLENBOSCH / 25 JANUARY TO 3 FEBRUARY
JOHANNESBURG / 27 JANUARY TO 19 FEBRUARY
SHAKESPEARE UNDER THE STARS www.maynardville.co.za
WINE FEAST www.stellenboschwinefestival.co.za
CLASSICAL MUSIC FUSION www.join-mozart-festival.org
A night out at the Maynardville open-air theatre in Wynberg is one of those things you simply must do when you are lucky enough to be in the Mother City at the right time. It is magic. This year’s performance is the outrageous Midsummer Night’s Dream.
Lifestyle tourists can look forward to the revamped annual Stellenbosch Wine Festival. Ten festive days include promotions at the many restaurants in Stellenbosch, a gala diner, wine tours, concerts, art exhibits and a blessing of the harvest, which will provide entertainment for everyone.
Connoisseurs of classical music may join in the celebration when top international and classical musicians come together to rejoice the life of Mozart. Exploring Hemispheres is the tantalizing theme of this year’s International Mozart Festival in Parktown.
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LATI UDEEvent
1. A great swing by one of our supporters 2. Geoff Genricks, Roy McEvoy, Barry Brooks and Mike Rich 3. Dr Carl-Heinz Duisberg, Caroline Duisberg, Gabby Westvig of Chic Mamas, Dave Endean of RED, the Gallery 4. Johan Oosthuizen 5. Angela Barry of A Gorman Photography, Robin Ancilotto of Latitude Magazine 6. Sean Kritzinger of Giltedge Travel, Manuela Lotti of Emirates, Paul Laemmle, Angela Barry 7. Manuela Lotti of Emirates with our Raffle 1st prize winner, Michael Thomas 8. Karl Westvig, Ulrich Rabe, Mike Crawley, Hamish Houston
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8. Chic Mamas Do Care has hosted yet another chic and fun fundraising event at Erinvale Golf Course in Somerset West. Supporting education and educational projects in underprivileged areas of South Africa, the Chic Mamas believe the way of the future is through helping children. On 17 October, 58 big hearted golfers teed off for the second annual Chic Mamas Golf Day. Together with the professional management of Richard Gill of Corporate Golf, the Chic Mamas raised R26 000 profit through ticket and raffle sales. They thank all their sponsors, including LATITUDE, who made the event such a success. When they are not on the golf course, the Mamas sell ‘nolonger-wanted’ boutique and designer label garments from three upmarket shops in Cape Town (Bergvliet, Sea Point and Hout Bay) to raise funds.
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Images provided by: A Gorman Photography
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ENJOY LATI UDEMagazine IN THE COMFORT OF YOUR HOME
LATI UDE
GET YOUR PRINT COPY of South Africa’s most discerning travel magazine delivered straight to your post box NOW for only R78 a year (offer valid only in South Africa). Read about new destinations, luxury getaways, not to be missed local and international events, insiders’ tips, latest international trends. Subscribers will automatically be part of the LATI UDE TRAVEL CLUB which gives them the opportunity to be notified of exclusive invitations, special offers and receive our monthly newsletter. T
ISSUE 1
ISSUE 2
Win
An indulgent TheraNaka
African Awakening Massage at the new Fresh Wellness
Spa at the Cellars-Hohenort in Constantia, and enjoy a post treatment lunch for two at the Conservatory Restaurant.
ISSUE 3
For more information please visit our website www.latitudemag.co.za
TheraNaka: African inspired body therapy with a strong focus on the healing properties of natural African ingredients. With Marula-herb infused body oils and oxygen enhancing breathing techniques the African Awakening Massage is an indulgent full body massage designed to relax every part of the body and mind. This is 90 minutes of pure bliss inspired by the beauty of Africa. All you need to do is to tell us which article you preferred the most within the first three editions of LATITUDE. To enter, simply email your name and contact details and the title of your chosen article to competition@latitudemag.co.za LATI UDE l DECEMBER 2012 // JANUARY 2013 T
Competition entries close on 31 January 2013. Prize valid from 1 March 2013 to 30 April 2013. Terms and conditions apply.
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LIZ The Mc Grath Collection L
iz McGrath is the only woman in the world to own three hotels, all of which are members of the prestigious Relais & Châteaux group. The hotels
are The Plettenberg in Plettenberg Bay, The Marine in Hermanus and The Cellars-Hohenort in Cape Town – all icons of first class travel and a testament to the passion and business acumen of the amazing Mrs. M!
Liz McGrath had a long and happy marriage to Gerald McGrath, which ended all too soon with his sudden death from a heart attack. Gerald was a powerful figure in the recording industry and when he died she found she had to console herself by doing something special with her life. Many years of holidaying together overseas in Relais and Châteaux hotels gave Liz the impetus to try and turn the old Lookout Hotel, which they owned, into an exclusive small Country House Hotel. Decor, food and gardening are Liz McGrath’s passions. She calls them addictions, and they have helped her to create three magnificent properties, in exceptional locations. “I get tremendous satisfaction from seeing my guests enjoying our wonderful South African hospitality and gaining insight into what makes our country so special. As an Hotelier, I am only as good as my team, and I know that my best attribute is my ability to pick staff with the right attitude. You can train anyone to do anything if they have that ability. To see my young people from all backgrounds grow and achieve is the reward for all my hard work.”
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Interview
Q. Did you always have a passion for the hotel industry? A. When my husband was alive, we had a passion for staying in small Relais & Châteaux Hotels in Europe. This was long before I became an Hotelier.
Q. How would you describe your design style and identity? A. I grew up with a father who collected Antiques, so my background has always been classical, but I embrace all that is modern and interesting. I try to create the feeling of a home in my hotels.
Q. What are some of the latest hotel design trends? A. There are two separate trends - ultra modern and over the top, or a return to simple good taste with a sense of place!
Q. Please tell us a bit about your gardens?
“I don’t talk about age, only about maturity. I’m thrilled to be in a position to pass on my experience to younger people, and in turn to learn from their youth and energy.” In 2008, Liz received The Woman of the Year Award, in Washington during the annual Relais and Châteaux Congress. This was followed in 2010 by the Relais and Châteaux Garden Trophy, an award for The Cellars-Hohenort’s nine acres of beautiful gardens. After successful bookings during the World Cup in June 2010, Liz felt justified in show-casing the exceptional talent of Peter Tempelhoff and his Head Chef, Gerald van der Walt, and built The Greenhouse Restaurant in The Hohenort Building. The Greenhouse has been a great success, being awarded Best Restaurant in South Africa for 2012.
Past accolades include: •
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In April 1997, in Paris, Liz was named “Woman to Watch” by The National Foundation for Woman Business Owners and Fortune Magazine. In 1998, she became an honouree. In December 2000, during the Duke of Edinburgh’s visit to South Africa for his award’s scheme, Liz was the vice chairman of the committee to welcome the Duke and Prince Edward.
A. My garden at The Cellars-Hohenort has evolved! With the help of Jean Almon, I have designed a new element almost every year. And of course, we are blessed with wonderful trees and a background of Table Mountain.
Q. The Greenhouse was awarded Best Restaurant in South Africa, 2012. What is the secret behind this achievement? A. Peter Templehoff has just been made a Relais & Châteaux Grand Chef, the first in Cape Town and the equivalent of two Michelin stars. He needed a restaurant where he could showcase his talents for small numbers of guests, so to achieve this, I built The Greenhouse. Peter has created a wonderful team under Head Chef, Gerald Van der Walt. They serve only forty covers, five nights a week, which is a way in which he creates his incredible food!!
Q. Where do you draw your inspiration from? A. I have been lucky enough to travel a great deal throughout my life, which keeps me in touch with trends and new ideas. I also gain inspiration from the young team that works with me.
Q. What may a first time guest to one of your hotels expect? A. They will be surprised by the warmth of their welcome.
Q. Tell us a bit about your new family-friendly policy? A. In the world today, couples are having children much later in life, and as older parents, they want to travel with their children. We have been seeing this trend emerge and have felt that our hotels should adapt to this new way of travel.
Q. Your achievements in the hospitality industry are exceptional. What is the secret of your success? A. A passion for the hotel industry and lots of hard work. Also, I’m only as good as those wonderful people who work with me, and the Good Lord gave me the ability to pick them!!!
Q. What are the 3 travel essentials you never leave home without? A. My iPad, my hair rollers and a good book.
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A perfectionist, and hands on operator, Mrs M spends some time every month in each of the three hotels and describes her job as “twenty four seven.”
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10 Things to LATI do inUDE From 12th January 2013 the leafy streets of Marseille will come alive with a celebration of dance, music, visual arts, theatre, exhibitions, street art, literature, gastronomy and cinema. The festivities will carry on throughout the year and it aims to support talented young artists from Europe and the Mediterranean and pay tribute to the greats such as Van Gogh, Dufy, Picasso, César and Le Corbusier.
Celebrating Amsterdam // www.iamsterdam.com/2013
The Dutch are hosting a cultural city celebration party that will last a year. Amsterdam 2013 starts during the second week in January. The idea is to encourage locals to rediscover their hometown and redefine visitors’ perceptions of the city. Some highlights include 400 years of the Canal Ring, the centenary of the Frans Hals Museum, and the reopening of both the Rijksmuseum and Van Gogh Museum.
Portrait of a city // www.canberra100.com.au
Canberra, steeped in history and culture, is celebrating its centenary in 2013.The second bout of festivities starts in March and includes free music gigs, big discussions around serious issues, fun storytelling, art exhibits, dancing and much more. Parts of the program will be new but it will also be a celebration of Canberra’s identity and intellectual property that will create a lasting legacy for future generations.
Walk in. Dance out // www.abbathemuseum.com
Devout fans of the famous Swedish pop group ABBA will enjoy exploring memorabilia when their own museum opens its doors in April. Here, all things ABBA will live in one place: the stories, music, lyrics, costumes and musicals. Visitors will even be able to sing along to ABBA songs next to life-size holograms of the group.
Underground party for steam train lovers // www.rail.co.uk
In 2013, The Metropolitan and District Line in London will turn 150. As part of their celebrations they will be doing a spot of renovation. Throughout the year, steam trains will make a comeback on the underground with the main public festivity, Steam on the Met, taking place in May as was the tradition way back when. Visit this site for updates on the events in May.
Isle of Beauty’s dream come true // www.letour.com
Tour de France’s 100th birthday will see it taking on 3 stages in Corsica. This is a first for the islanders whose preparations for this great cycle race are already in full swing. The tour will zigzag through Corsica’s majestic landscapes. It is also the first time in 10 years that it will stay exclusively within the French border. This spectacular event starts on 29 June.
Cruise through Burma in style // www.orient-express.com
A second new luxurious Orient-Express river vessel will allow travellers to explore the breathtakingly beautiful 7-day cruise from Rangoon to Bagan. The Orcaella will be launched in June and cruisers may expect deluxe suites with adjoining balconies, fitness centers, spas and restaurants.
A racy summer // www.americascup.com
Be part of the exclusive America’s Cup World Series that concludes in San Francisco, July to September. Super fast and magnificent wing-sailed catamarans, world-class sailors, breathtaking locations and elite service make this one of the world’s finest spectator sports. Their sustainability projects show they care about the ocean and they are working towards being a carbon neutral event.
A festival in paradise // www.maldivesinfo.gov.mv
Maldives, with its deep blue seas, turquoise reefs and white sandy beaches will be the host for the United Nations World Tourism Organisation 2013 World Tourism Day celebrations. The theme is aptly named, Tourism and Water: protecting our common future. Festivities are all-year long with the highlight being a hosting of the official ceremony on 27th September.
Starfish threaten World’s largest coral reef // http://www.reef.crc.org.au
More than half of the Great Barrier Reef’s coral has disappeared over the past 27 years. While coral bleaching and storms are a threat, infestations of crown-of-thorns starfish are one of the main culprits. The reef gets up to 2 million tourist visits each year. If you are planning a visit, you should go now, or risk missing out on this World Heritage Site.
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Capital of culture // www.mp2013.fr
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SUMMER CYCLING IN
VAL GARDENA
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Between June and July we have many events, two new trails for mountain biking and a site of some thirty tracks for all levels.
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Summer in Val Gardena will be dedicated to cycling enthusiasts thanks to the events: Südtirol Sellaronda HERO mountain bike race – June 22, 2013; Sellaronda Bike Day – the cycling day for everyone – on June 23 and September 15, 2013 – a new free ride track on Ciampinoi above Selva. The new site www.mtb-dolomites.com, will be showcasing about thirty different routes for all. Spend Sunday, June 23 in the saddle for an all-round traditional cycling day: Sellaronda Bike Day 2013. This is a day with the mountain pass roads closed to traffic, created seven years ago to enable all cycling enthusiasts to have access, for once, to the closed pass roads on Passo Gardena, Passo Sella, Passo Campolongo and Passo Pordoi. A Sunday without motor vehicles, 63 km of paved road and 1,780 meters in altitude. In 2012 there were more than 20,000 people who participated in the Sellaronda Bike Day, which is not a race, and whose contribution is not subject to registration or restrictions. The event will be repeated in September, Sunday 15th, and will be called Eco-Sellaronda Bike Day, because it will be two days dedicated to ecology. On Saturday it’s possible to test the E-Bikes and other electric vehicles and the pass roads are again closed to traffic on Sunday 15: www.sellarondabikeday.com. Athletes who have trained hard are given the opportunity to compete in the fourth edition of Südtirol Sellaronda HERO, which will see more than 3,000 cyclists from more than 25 different countries on mtb trails, on June 22. The toughest mountain bike race in Europe has two routes, 84 and 62 km: www.sellarondahero.com. For mountain bikers, from June, the free ride trail will be ready on “Ciampinoi” above Selva, two different levels of difficulty and a drop of more than 550 meters, with jumps, bridges and curves. On the site www.mtb-dolomites.com you can download the GPS data of 30 mountain bike routes, with varying degrees of difficulty, including the Val Gardena and the Alpe di Siusi. The most famous route is the round “Sellaronda Track”, which goes in both directions, with the help of lifts (approximately 6 hours drive) and accompanied by a guide from the mountain bike school, Val Gardena: www.mtbvalgardena.com. Finally, also through the Val Gardena Active program, different kinds of guided mountain bike excursions including the famous Sellaronda Track, www.sellarondatour.com, will be organized during summer. Book at the Tourist offices. For the Südtirol Sellaronda HERO in June 2013, two packages will be offered. All details will soon be online on a dedicated site: www.sellarondahero.com. For more information: Holiday Val Gardena Ph: +39 0471 777 777 www.valgardena.it www.facebook.com\VGardena
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Safari Getaway
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BY CAROLINE COWAN
hen I was young I watched Out of Africa with Meryl Streep and Robert Redford. That was the moment I fell in love with the African bushveld. In my memory the movie captured the sheer romance of living in the African wild. Grand old homes opening up to sweeping lawns leading on to wild African scrub. African sunsets that are big strokes of purple and pink across the sky and the feeling of contentment that the constant calls of hundreds of birds provoke. Today this African dream lives on. Private game lodges are opening their homes to those of us who want to create our very own Out of Africa experience. Homesteads and villas come with all the conveniences of the modern age set in an era gone by. They offer butlers and dedicated chefs and personal rangers. And while these homesteads are right on our doorstep they will transport you away from the everyday into a world of wide open spaces and wild animals, an escape from the mundane to the luxury of the exotic. And there’s nothing quite like luxury in the bush, African style. Wake up to the calls of the wild while happily ensconced in pure cotton sheets, enjoy breakfast in the open, prepared by your personal chef, schedule your own game drives, enjoy the views while having a massage or just spend time with friends and family while every whim is taken care of.
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LOCATION:
The Great Karoo, Eastern Cape
When the owners of this exquisite manor
with my morning coffee freshly brewed by
SLEEPS:
house can tear themselves away, private
my personal butler or with sundowner drinks
parties of up to 8 guests are invited to indulge
as the animals gather for theirs, these are
their own private African game farm fantasy.
my perfect African moments. And while
Every room, created by South African designer
the Manor can be your luxury home away
John Zwiegelaar of John Jacob Interiors, is
from home, there are others who have
warm, light and inspired by the landscapes
made this place their home: the highly
and traditions of the area. This is how I like
endangered cheetah. Have a look out for
to experience nature - the myriad sounds and
Sibella, the reserve’s star cheetah who has
sights of the bush, not to mention the diverse
reared 18 cubs while at Samara. Everything
Karoo wildlife - from the comfort of a large,
thrives here in this free and open setting,
luxurious lounge that opens out to a wide patio
be it endangered species or memorable
8 guests
THE SPACE:
Four air-conditioned suites with large en-suite bathrooms, free standing baths and separate showers; lounge with fireplace; library and reading nooks; dining room; breakfast room; patio; boma; veranda; 21 m infinity pool.
STAFF AND SERVICES:
Personal ranger, chef and butler.
moments spent with the family.
to a well-used waterhole. Drinking in the view
www.samara.co.za // +27 (0) 23 626 6113
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and 21m infinity pool, flowing almost right in
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Safari Getaway
LOCATION:
Great Fish River, Eastern Cape This private luxury farmhouse built at the turn embarking on adventures such, water-based of the 20th century is available for exclusive use safaris, or big game walks. The reserve even by families or groups of friends as their private offers a unique chance to participate in rhino home in the wild. With the charms of the past monitoring. so beautifully complimented by the comfort of modern conveniences, the Homestead is The Homestead sleeps parties of up to six, certainly my ideal home away from home.
offers all the modern comforts and has a full complement of staff on hand to cater to your
I love the idea of viewing the rugged wilds of every need. Now, it’s time to settle in and the bushveld outside from the sanctuary of enjoy the views. my private veranda.
SLEEPS: 6 guests
THE SPACE:
Elegant 1905 Farmhouse with three beautiful suites with private bathrooms; air conditioning; lounge; dining area; farm style kitchen; personal bar; private verandas; full size swimming pool with gazebo.
STAFF AND SERVICES:
Or, spending my days www.kwandwe.com/uplands-homestead
Use of a private 4X4 game drive vehicle, in- room massage, butler, chef, personal ranger and tracker team.
lounging on the sofa, dining on the lawns, or +27 (0) 46 622 7897
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LOCATION:
Southern Sabie Sand Game Reserve
SLEEPS:
8 adults and up to 8 children
THE SPACE:
4 suites, each with their own private view of the Sabie River; children’s dormitory; en-suite bathrooms; outdoor showers; private viewing decks; swimming pool; air conditioning; fireplace; Lion Sands Africology Spa.
STAFF AND SERVICES:
Personal butler, chef, game rangers and private-use 4X4 game drive vehicle, nanny service on request.
are four private suites each with their
to you. And with a private villa full of all the
own private view of the Sabie River and a
luxuries you could ever dream of, I know I
dormitory for the kids. To me, this is really
would want to stay exactly where I am. 1933
about creating an experience that will live
is a private home found deep within the
on in the family for many years to come. If
Sabie Sand Game Reserve, and sits on the
I could choose any one place to gather my
Sabie River, where the senses are completely
family and closest friends and create my
immersed in the surrounding wilderness.
own safari story this would be it, complete with dedicated staff, creature comforts and
1933 is dedicated to the founder of the reserve
memories of hippo walks, safari lunches and
who bought the land back in 1933. This is the
bush dinners, bird watching or local village
private family camp that has been generously
experiences.
opened up to guests wanting the ultimate
www.lionsands.com
intimate and private safari experience. There
+27 (0) 11 880 9992
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They say that at Lion Sands the wildlife comes
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Safari Getaway
LOCATION:
23 km north of Hluhluwe, Kwazulu-Natal The word ‘thanda’ means love in Zulu. I could I wouldn’t. Not enough royal treatment? easily fall in love with Thanda, the winner of There’s more. During your stay you will have Africa’s Leading Luxury Game Reserve award the full attendance of a private game viewing in 2012. And with a personal palace of five vehicle and ranger, personal chef, and - this gorgeous suites, and a full complement of staff where I fall head over heels - a masseuse. I to treat you like royalty at The Royal Private can see exactly why the Royal Private Villa Villa, who wouldn’t be absolutely smitten? Set won both ‘Africa’s Leading Luxury Villa’ and in the heart of northern Zululand , the villa has ‘South Africa’s Leading Luxury Villa’ in 2010. a private boma, a cellar, a library, swimming This is my cue to embrace my inner African pool and even a games room if you ever get queen and invite the people I really love to tired of the views, but with a private viewing indulge in a truly royal experience. deck overlooking the big 5 waterhole I know www.thanda.com // +27 (0) 87 806 1210
SLEEPS: 10 guests
THE SPACE:
1000 square metres of luxury villa; five guest suites, three queens and two doubles; lounge; library; cellar; games room; business room with internet; dining room; fully-equipped kitchen; viewing deck looking out onto a popular waterhole; private boma, heated swimming pool.
STAFF AND SERVICES:
Private game drive vehicle and ranger, personal chef, masseuse.
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LOCATION:
Madikwe Game Reserve, North West Province
SLEEPS: 10 guests
THE SPACE:
5 presidential rooms each with spectacular views; en-suite bathrooms with private verandas and outdoor showers; lounge; library; personal bar; patio and dining area; garden; heated infinity swimming pool.
STAFF AND SERVICES:
Butler, personal game ranger and Shangaan tracker, nanny service, personal wish lists fulfilled.
in mind, it is easy to settle in and unwind
meaning of freedom, from the open skies and
whether sipping favourite drinks at the bar,
sprawling bushveld of malaria free Madikwe,
taking quick, or leisurely, dips in the pool or
to the freedom of choosing what to do and
setting off in to the wild with a private game
when. I am already captivated. While being
ranger and tracker on personalised game
treated to the same five-star service as offered
tours. Dinner is wherever your imagination
at the other lodges at Morukuru, the one-of-
takes you. I don’t always like itineraries and
a-kind experience of the Farm House is what
set-in-stone plans, so I love the fact that
really appeals to me - only me, my family and
here I have the freedom to choose exactly
friends, and the wild African bush, free to
what kind of bush break I want. Morukuru
spend my time as I please. Yes please! With
is a luxury to be enjoyed just the way you
La Grange designed interiors, created with
want it.
easy-going comfort and simple, tactile luxuries
www.morukuru.com // +27 (0) 11 615 4303
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Morukuru is about experiencing the true
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The five-star Strandloper Ocean Boutique Hotel is an unspoilt coastal getaway, offering laid-back luxury and breathtaking views of the ocean,with 8 km of sandy, white beach on your doorstep. www.strandloperocean.com info@strandloperocean.com m: +27 82 500 8532 LATI UDE l DECEMBER 2012 // JANUARY 2013 T
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MOZA by Caroline Cowan
To me Mozambique means over-bearing blue skies and intense tropical vegetation, it is bright capalana-clad women, it is a siesta every afternoon and a fiesta each night, it is the plastic bag full of ripe mangoes bought at the side of the road and fish handpicked for supper, it is the hot humid air
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that sticks not only to the skin but also to the soul, it is the feel of tropical showers on sunburn. I’ve had many opportunities to drive the length of this wonderful country, some adventurously off track, some ambitiously unplanned, some long, some short, but all unique to Mozambique.
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WHEN PLANNING A DRIVE FROM MAPUTO IN THE SOUTH, TO PEMBA IN THE FAR NORTH, THE TWO MOST IMPORTANT WORDS TO KNOW ARE LONG AND LEISURELY.
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from
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t’s certainly worth spending a few days in the capital
skyline. Big, bald rocky mounds called inselbergs mark
sipping cafes and sampling pasteis. However, once
your entry into Nampula Province. While the city of
you have indulged in one peri-peri prawn too many
Nampula is only good for supplies, it connects you
at the Maputo Waterfront, I suggest that you pack your
to two of the most important and best kept secrets of
well-built and air-conditioned vehicle and start looking
Mozambique. Nacala is home to a very deep natural
for the rest of Mozambique.
port, 120 metres, that harbours sea life to make any
The route I recommend is the EN1, a recently
avid diver weep. Ilha de Moçambique, a Unesco World
upgraded version of the old potholed, pot luck
Heritage site, is a whole lot of history packed on to one
national road that goes almost all the way to the north
tiny but utterly romantic island. The first Arab traders
of the country. This road will take you to Vilanculos
stayed here, the first church in Africa was built here,
and the Bazaruto Archipelago, where you learn that
the Portuguese settled here and built a very big fort,
Mozambique doesn’t only have beaches; it has islands,
slaves were sent off from here and locals sought refuge
archipelagos of white sand and crystal clear waters,
here during the civil war. It’s not surprising so many
a scuba diver’s paradise. But there is so much more
travellers have fallen hopelessly in love with Ilha. I
to explore. Get back on the EN1, and make a beeline
know it has a special place in my heart.
for Beira. Don’t linger too long, only 3 hours from the
After exploring IIha, follow the signs to Pemba and
noise and high humid heat, Gorongosa National Park,
you won’t be sorry. Once again, Mozambique puts on
all lush green leaves and revived wildlife stocks, is your
a display of eye-searing turquoise, blinding white and
next stop, transporting you from beach villa to luxury
sandy beaches and an archipelago of islands that are
tented camp, from whale sharks to wild elephants.
strung out in the sea like pearls. Eat, hit the beach, go
Once you cross the great Zambezi River via the new,
for a massage or fill your day with any number of water
multi-million Dollar Armando Guebeza Bridge, you
activities in Pemba or put on your really big sun hat and
have reached northern Mozambique. For many this is
sunglasses and wait for your charter plane to take you
unchartered territory.
to a luxury island retreat. You made it this far, now you
The scenery begins to change as mountains and hills start cropping up on the otherwise unspoilt
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deserve to be pampered and treated like a star.
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TO DO DIVING AND DUGONGS INDIGO BAY RESORT
www.indigobayresort.com +27 (0) 21 423 1912 The Bazaruto Marine National Park offers exceptional diving with an abundance of reef and other fish to ogle. A special treat is to swim with the leatherback, green or loggerhead turtles that frequent these waters or to catch a glimpse of the rather rare Dugong.
DHOW SAFARIS www.mozambiquedhowsafaris.com +27 (0) 21 785 5498
Special place DIVE ONE OF THE WORLD’S DEEPEST NATURAL PORTS LIBELULA
www.divelibelula.com +258 82 304 2909 For the dive enthusiast, Nacala is an absolute must. This is one of the deepest natural ports in the world and offers plenty of opportunities for spectacular diving. The sheltered waters also make it the ideal place to learn to dive.
SAIL FROM ILHA DE MOÇAMBIQUE TO CHOCAS MAR HOTEL ESCONDIDINHO +258 26 610 078
Leave your motor behind, take a dhow safari and sail the
Sail the route of Portuguese explorer Vasco da Gama. Dhow
Quirimbas seas. Sail along the coast, up rivers and from island to
trips can be arranged going from Ilha da Moçambique to nearby
island also visiting the historical Ibo Island. This is about you, the
Chocas Mar and the islands of Goa and Sena. Have a look out
ocean and the dolphins that will be swimming right beside you.
for the Da Gama cross on Ilha da Goa.
frica
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TO EAT
A strong Portuguese influence and an abundance of fresh local ingredients define Mozambican cuisine. Right from Maputo to the Quirimbas in the north, you will find fresh prawns, crayfish, calamari, crab and game fish. Try the feijoada, a Portuguese bean and meat stew. Sip cocktails on the beach with a plate of petiscos – think crab cakes or fried casava. Grab a hot, strong café in any city or town, and try the selection of pasteis. A firm favourite are the pasteis de nata, or mini custard tarts. Juicy pineapples, large ripe mangoes, giant avocadoes and sweet, fresh maracuja, or granadilla, juice are nature’s five-star offerings and they are plentiful on your drive across the country.
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EXPLORE GORONGOSA TENTED CAMPS
www.exploregorongosa.com // +21 (0) 21 813 9534 Gorongosa Whether you like the idea of being part of a conservation project restoring the great Gorongosa or just want to immerse yourself in nature, this is both luxury and safari.
POLANA SERENA HOTEL
www.serenahotels.com/serenapolana // +25 8 21 491 001 Maputo If you’ve always wanted to experience one of Africa’s grandest hotels, book yourself in to the Polana. It’s sheer, guilty luxury, by far the best way to get ready for a road trip!
NUARRO LODGE
www.nuarro.com // +25 8 82 305 3028 Northern Mozambique On the unexplored north coast near Nacala, Nuarro is a place people discover. This is pure Mozambique with secluded villas and friendly, welcoming service. Even the whales come out to greet you!
AZURA BENGUERRA ISLAND
www.azura-retreats.com/benguerra // +27 (0) 76 7050 599 Bazaruto With views as blue as the name promises, Azura really is an island paradise. You’ll have your own private villa, complete with butler host and pool. Could you need more?
VAMIZI ISLAND
www.vamizi.com // +44 (0) 12 8576 2218 Quirimbas Get yourself right to the top tip of Mozambique and regale in the colonial style splendour of this Quirimbas luxury island hideaway. After a long drive, this is your reward.
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TO BUY ROADSIDE SELLERS AND OPEN AIR MARKETS
The beauty of driving is that you get to experience the most exclusive shops in the country – the ones that come to you.
MISSANGA Ilha de Moçambique
The name Missanga refers to the glass beads that were used during the slave trade. These colourful drops of history are a must buy on Ilha de Moçambique. The shop also sells locally crafted jewellery, clothes and hand embroidered materials, carvings and some artefacts salvaged from the bottom of the ocean. To find it, just ask any local to point you in the right direction.
DHOW Maputo
Along the way you will find people selling buckets of cashew
A treasure trove of artefacts sourced locally and from afar, Dhow
nuts, bags of beautifully ripe mangoes, you may bump into a
is the best place to shop for interesting trinkets and unusual art
fisherman on the beach, laden with impossibly large crayfish.
pieces. Once you have scoured every corner, join Maputo’s elite
Look out for village markets for bright capalana materials and
for drinks or a bite, overlooking the bay.
other local goodies.
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TUNES
YOUR 10 MOZAMBIQUE ROAD TRIP TUNES 1. WALKING ON THE SUNSHINE – Katrina and the Waves 2. SEVEN NATION ARMY – Ben l’oncle soul 3. SOMETHING FOR THE WEEKEND – Ben Westbeech 4. FRIDAY I’M IN LOVE – The Cure 5. MOZAMBIQUE – Bob Dylan 6. BEAUTIFUL DAY – U2 7. THIS IS HOW IT GOES – Goldfish 8. DOO BE DOO – Freshly Ground 9. SUN IS SHINING – Bob Marley 10. DIAMONDS ON THE SOLES OF HER SHOES – Paul Simon
5 DRIVE SAFETY TIPS 1.
During the rainy season (November to April) travel by four-wheel drive vehicle is recommended for most road travel outside Maputo.
2.
Don’t drive in areas where there are no demarcated roads – there are still land mines in Mozambique.
3.
Make sure you have with you all necessary documents (driving license, vehicle registration, temporary import papers) and that you carry traffic triangles.
4.
In Mozambique, it is illegal to drive on the beaches. Many resort owners allow driving on the beaches, but besides being illegal (your vehicle may be impounded if you’re caught), it is not very friendly to the environment.
5.
Keep cash with you (US$, ZAR or local currency).
FLYING TO MOZAMBIQUE Airlink flies five times a day, every day from Johannesburg to Maputo, while SA Express connects Cape Town to the Mozambique capital three times a week. For more information visit www.flyairlink.com or www.flyexpress.aero
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photographed by Guillaume Gaudet
N.Y.C by Leora Novick
O T Y A W A P I L S RK O Y W E N G N BUSTLI T N E D A C E D A FOR ING P P O H S R E T WIN SPREE.
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Insider’s Guide
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E
very time I wander along Manhattan’s exclusive
as much as Anna Wintour about the latest trends.
Madison Avenue, I go into sensory overload.
Wandering through the picture perfect cobble-stoned streets of
The stylishly lit shops are filled with designer brands, luxurious fabrics
Soho, up to the lush Central Park, each neighbourhood in New York
and inviting textures. Beautiful and fashionably dressed people spill
City has its own special character and way of life. When it comes to
out of trendy little bars and onto the street. I love the inviting smell of
hotels and restaurants, it is a matter of choice, sometimes even too
roasted nuts sold by the street vendors and every sweet mouthful of
many options to include in a month’s holiday!
Laduree’s rose-flavoured macaroons that you find in the iconic Upper East Side.
And the shopping: the utopia of feeling like Carry from Sex and the City when you stroll down the avenues, arms laden with the
As Christmas approaches, autumn sets in, and leaves fall from trees
latest fashions. From the world-famous department stores of the
to make room for snow. Colourful high-heel sandals are stored in
Upper East to the tinier luxury multi-brand boutiques in the trendy
favour of warm leather fashion boots. My ideal day starts by cupping
neighbourhoods of Lower Manhattan, there’s always a sense of
my hands around a steaming latte. Sitting in a bustling coffee shop,
glamour and a feeling of possibility that something new and exciting
I love spying on the great fashion show of New Yorkers frantically
will happen any moment. And guess what? It usually does.
heading somewhere. Give yourself a couple of days and you’ll know
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Insider’s Guide
IN D O O H R U O B EACH NEIGH N W O S T I S A H ITY NEW YORK C AY W D N A R E T AC R A H C L A I C E SP OF LIFE.
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New York City
Alexander Wang
The title for Manhattan’s best fashion scene bounces continuously from Madison Av., between 59th and 79th street, to Soho shopping grid that runs from Broadway west to Sixth Avenue, and Houston Street south to Canal Street. My shopping expedition to this side of the Big Apple always includes Isabel
Marant,
a French outpost Mecca for girls favouring a sexy, chic Parisian style with a twist and
Rag & Bone,
the store that will
make you wonder how you ever survived before it existed. Here you can find feather light tees and super skinny leather bottoms quick bite at the celeb favourite Cipriani
Downtown, my
trunks, some dating back several decades. For the sample sale
WHAT TO WEAR
aficionado, and the girl always on the hunt for the next great
This winter is all about bold patterns,
perfect fashion-victim tour in Soho continues with vintage lovers’ heaven,
A Second Chance, where small corners are filled
with big names such as Chanel bags and Louis Vuitton steamer
Century 21 is the place to be. Since I Scoop to find the season’s finest
strong textures, and overall geometric
am on Broadway I swing by
shapes. As the street style blogs
fashion from both well-known and young emerging designers.
faithfully record the comings and
The store aims to be the ‘Ultimate Closet’ and their stylists serve
goings of New York City’s most stylish
as wardrobe builders. A must stop shop for downtown duds
members, it’s clear to see that colour
Alexander Wang
is back. Bold patterns from Balmain,
interactive store (yes, that is a giant furry swing!) and its swoon
Marni, and Dries Van Noten echo
worthy cool girl apparel.
hints of the Baroque period, while
fashion bargain,
with a sexy monochrome theme is the
In the event of a visit to my girlfriends in the Upper East, I
Lanvin and Stella McCartney focus on
make sure I leave downtown early enough to go and see the
peplum and curve silhouettes. The look
Intermix.
is bold as each new item simply begs
This store is for the one-stop shopper and has a great personal
for attention in a city full of magazine
most trendy and stylish pieces on the market at
Burberry, is
worthy looks. To balance this out, black
also close by. Must have from this store is the Prorsum jacket with
leather remains New York’s favourite
Bergdorf
colour. Givenchy, Proenza Schouler,
Goodman. When the weather gets cold, and the skies are dark,
and of course, Alexander Wang, have
shopper service. My favourite winter designer,
insulators. Just one block up, on Fifth Avenue, is
there is no better place to while away the hours. Enjoy floors
perfected the monochrome ensemble
of luxurious brands from cosmetics to apparel, ending off with
with mesh collars, embroidered jackets,
a chic lunch in the French themed brasserie. Back on Madison
and mod dresses. Overall, expect some
Laduree to buy my favourite
show stopping pieces and take a note
rose-flavoured macaroons, but still can’t avoid the temptations to
from this season’s trends and embrace
check the last Céline leather bag collection next door.
your inner powerhouse.
I remember I need to stop at
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courtesy of Guillaume Gaudet
that will make you want to snap up one in every colour. After a
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New York Guide Insider’s City
Cipriani Downtown
Laduree
Intermix
lev radin / Shutterstock.com
A Second Chance
Scoop
Rag & Bone
Isabel Marant
www.asecondchanceresale.com 155 Prince Street New York, NY 10012 00 1 212 673-6155
www.scoopnyc.com Soho, 473 - 475 Broadway New York, NY 10013 00 1 212 925 3539
www.rag-bone.com 119 Mercer Street New York, NY 10012 00 1 212 219 2204
www.isabelmarant.tm.fr 469 Broome, greene corner, Soho, NY 10013 00 1 212 219 2284
Alexander Wang
Burberry
Intermix
Century 21
www.alexanderwang.com 103 Grand Street New York, NY 10013 00 1 212 977 9683
www.burberry.com 9 E. 57th Street New York, NY 10022 00 1 212 407 7100
www.intermixonline.com 1003 Madison Avenue New York, NY 10021 00 1 212 249 7858
www.c21stores.com 1972 Broadway New York, NY 10023 00 1 212 518 2121
Bergdorf Goodman Céline www.celine.com 870 Madison Avenue New York, NY 00 1 212 535 3703
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www.bergdorfgoodman.com 5th Avenue at 58th Street New York, NY 10019 00 1 800 558 1855
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WHAT TO DO
WHAT TO WATCH Manhattan
www.rockefellercenter.com
Times Square Alliance
30 Rockefeller Plaza
www.timessquarenyc.org/events/new-
to his beloved city, this film beautifully
New York, NY 10112
years-eve/index.aspx
portrays the softer side of New York
00 1 212 332 6868
Broadway and Seventh Avenue, 42nd to
City. The black and white display gives
47th Streets
a romantic glow that adds to the aura of
New York, NY 10036
this glamorous island.
Rockefeller Center
The lighting of the Rockefeller Center
Described as Woody Allan’s love letter
Christmas tree officially marks the holiday season in New York City, and no trip would
For an iconic New Years Eve, watching the
be complete without a visit to the colourful
ball drop in Times Square is an experience
pine. Don’t forget to wander through the
to remember. Plan ahead and arrive early to
Sex and the City
surrounding shops and warm your cold
have a stellar view of the festivities, and don’t
Perhaps the most recent ode to NYC,
hands with a steamed cup of liquid chocolate
forget to toast the New Year in style with
this cult following TV series turned movie
at the nearby Bouchon Bakery.
silver flasks and a shearling-lined jacket.
shows the true glamour of New York living. From Park Avenue to the West Village, you’ll be dreaming of hailing a
Bryant Park
Laduree
www.bryantpark.org
www.laduree.fr/en/scene
faster than you can say, “Cosmopolitan,
40th to 42nd Street & Fifth and Sixth
864 Madison Avenue
please.”
Avenues
New York, NY 10021
00 1 212 768 4242
00 1 646 558 3157
New York City is home to many ice skating
This classic French patisserie has finally
Sabrina
rinks, but few are as magical as Bryant Park’s.
opened a home on New York’s famed
In this Audrey Hepburn classic, viewers
Surrounded by skyscrapers and in close
Madison Avenue, and no trip to the city
are given a glimpse of old-world New
proximity to the iconic New York Public
would be complete without a box full of
York and the glamour that comes from the
Library, skaters will feel as though they are
their macaroons. Pop in during the holiday
rustle of a petticoat and two covert glasses
slowly moving through a snow globe of
season and see what seasonal flavours they
of champagne. Escape into the 1950s and
the city.
have concocted.
discover this French tinged delight.
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yellow cab in midnight blue Manolos,
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Insider’s Guide
WHERE TO STAY
The Mandarin Oriental
60 Thompson
The Standard Hotel
www.mandarinoriental.com/newyork 80 Columbus Circle New York, New York 10023 00 1 212 805 8800
www.thompsonhotels.com 60 Thompson Street New York, NY 10012 00 1 212 431 0400
www.standardhotels.com/high-line 848 Washington Street New York, NY 10014 00 1 212 645 4646
With its perfect proximity to Lincoln Center, New York City’s Mandarin Oriental is the ideal location for Fashion Week visits and breathtaking views of Central Park. Enjoy luxury and postcard windows for the ultimate New York experience in fine hospitality.
This downtown Hotel in the heart of Soho offers visitors the chance to stay in one of the more charming areas of the city. With chic styling and a luxurious, yet modern setting, 60 Thompson is definitely where all the cool kids are staying.
Famous for its view of the High Line, the elevated railroad track turned Public Park, The Standard has become a favourite among the jet set crowd. With its famous beer garden and grill, and its rooftop bars, this hotel is perfect for every occasion.
WHERE TO EAT Image provided by: Sylvia Paret
Balthazar Restaurant
ABC Kitchen
Daniel
balthazarny.com
www.abckitchennyc.com
www.danielnyc.com
80 Spring Street
35 East 18th street
60 E. 65th Street
New York, NY 10012
New York, NY 10003
New York, NY 10065
00 1 212 965 1414
00 1 212 475 5829
00 1 212 288 0033
For a French-themed brunch in Manhattan’s
One of Jean-Georges Vongerichten outposts
For
stylish Soho neighborhood, Balthazar’s is the
in New York City, ABC Kitchen emphasises
experience in New York City, Daniel is the
place to be seen. Enjoy classics like onion
organically grown and ecologically friendly
crème de la crème. Founded by famed chef
soup gratineé and steak frites, and don’t
produce. Dining here is a breath of fresh air.
Daniel Boulud, this French dining experience
forget to wash it all down with an Oyster Mary.
an
elegant
and
luxurious
dining
changes with the seasons.
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LATI UDE
Cover Story
RAJASTHAN
The Royalty land Colourful culture and decadent luxury in India’s ‘land of the kings’. BY LUCY CORNE
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image courtesy of Sujan Luxury Hotels
LATI UDE
Cover Story
C
Camels and elephants jostle
the therapist’s voice snapped me back to reality.
for
space
with
honking
“I think you are having big problems,” she said,
and
brightly
stopped the massage and grabbed a lock of my
painted buses. Aromas of
hair. I panicked, wondering what horrors could
incense and spice fill the
have lured her away from her almost trance-like
rickshaws
nostrils. Saris and market
working state. Luckily, my hair wasn’t falling out
stalls merge to create an ocean of colour in the
in great clumps or infested with scorpions. It had
stifling desert heat.
turned green.
It’s been said that travelling to India is an
You see, the day before had been Holi, a religious
assault on the senses, but ‘assault’ seems like
festival celebrating good’s triumph over evil in an
a negative word. I prefer to think of it as a
inimitably Indian manner. Throughout the day I’d
massage for all the senses and nowhere does
become caked in the colourful powder thrown
this seem more appropriate than in the north-
around as a blessing. Despite getting into a water
western state of Rajasthan. Here, life is painted
fight and even after two hot showers, I had come
with an extra bright palette and opulence is the
away with a souvenir of green hair. I had also
order of the day. A massage – or any other type
managed to amass numerous aches and pains,
of decadence – is never too far away.
trying to ‘play Holi’ with a group of excitable children whose energy far surpassed my own.
It was after a very colourful weekend that I
But luckily, for every raucous festival luring you
found myself on the right end of a delicious
into their vibrant local culture, Rajasthan also has
massage. I was just slipping into a meditative
a spa treatment waiting to pamper you and as
state that a spa treatment induces – the state
the therapist turned her attention from my green
that would be solid sleep if you weren’t afraid of
tresses back to my aching body, I knew I’d soon
embarrassing yourself by snoring loudly – when
be ready for the next Indian cultural adventure.
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Lavish Lodgings Devi Garh
www.deviresorts.in/devigarh tel. +91 (2953) 289 211 Sitting in a quiet spot 28km from Udaipur, this 18th century palace allows a peek at village life. The all-suite hotel offers minimalist Indianinspired décor, luxurious amenities and views of the Aravalli Mountains.
Palace on Wheels
www.royalpalaceonwheels.com tel. +91 (609) 683-5018 Rajasthan’s renowned train hotel is ideal for those short on time. You visit all of the state’s hotspots on a whirlwind seven-day tour, your transport-cum-luxury lodgings transporting you between towns. photo courtesy of Tree of Life Resorts
Tree of Life Resort and Spa www.treeofliferesorts.com tel. +91 (1426) 217 561 The sumptuous villas at this Jaipur resort boast not only their own pool, but each also have a private spa. Culinary travellers have the chance to design their own dinners using organic vegetables picked from the resort garden.
Aman-i-Khás
www.amanresorts.com/amanikhas/home.aspx tel. +91 (7462) 252 052 Clinging to the edge of Ranthambore National Park, this tented camp opens only between October and April. Between nature walks and drives to glimpse tigers, relax in your wispy tent, decked out with chic furnishings. photo courtesy of Taj Hotels
Umaid Bhawan Palace www.tajhotels.com
tel. +91 (291) 251 0101 If a former palace isn’t regal enough, how about a still-functioning one? Jodhpur’s royal family is hidden away in a separate wing, but you get a taste of majestic living with dedicated butlers or a consultation with the palace astrologer.
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LATI UDE
Cover Story
Regal Relaxation The Serai
photo courtesy of Sujan Luxury Hotels
www.the-serai.com tel. +91 (11) 4617 2700 Like the accommodation at this luxury desert camp, the spa’s treatment rooms are all housed in tents. Enjoy a post-camel ride body scrub or massage using products created from local herbs and spices.
The Oberoi Vanyavilas
www.oberoihotels.com/oberoi_vanyavilas tel. +91 (11) 2389 0606 As well as ayurvedic treatments, chakra balancing and personalised yoga sessions, try the ‘Safari Sanctuary’, a three-hour indulgence enjoyed after a wildlife drive into Ranthambore’s jungle.
Jiva Spa Boat
www.tajhotels.com/jivaspas/Jiva-Spa-Boat.html tel. +91 9294) 242 8800 There is something majestic about cruising around a temple-fringed lake while being pampered with a massage. For the ultimate in opulence try Mewar Khas, a pre-wedding treatment traditionally enjoyed by Rajasthan royalty.
Eat, play and love the culture Music is an important part of Rajasthani life and performances
showcasing the simple stringed instruments abound. There’s
Cooking
is likewise a cultural encounter you can try for
yourself, with classes explaining Rajasthan’s rich dishes available
nothing people at home enjoy more than a tale of travelling
wherever there are tourists. Tackle the state’s famed three-part
embarrassment. So when you’re pulled up to join in – and it will
dish, Daal Bati Churma (wheat buns, lentil curry and wheat flour
happen – kick off your spectator’s shoes and try the swirling, hip-
mixed with ghee and sugar) before moving onto the legendary
swinging moves of the Ghoomar dance.
sweetmeats.
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Cultural Celebrations Desert Festival
www.jaisalmerdesertfestival.com tel. +91 (2992) 252 406 Hosted
in
Jaisalmer
each
February,
this
flamboyant three-day festival gives an instant insight into desert entertainment. If you ever considered camels unexciting, be prepared to be wowed by camel-back polo matches, acrobatics and even camel fur-cutting contests. The highlight though, is the facial hair contest and a photo with the desert’s most impressive moustache is a must-have memento for festivalgoers.
Elephant Festival tel. +91 (141) 220 0778
The pomp and pageantry of this one-day event epitomises
Rajasthan’s
extravagant
leanings.
Locals and tourists clamber ever closer to the pachyderm parade, the risk of getting crushed ranking below the need to snap some shots of elephants painted head to hefty toe with intricate designs. Once the ‘best-dressed’ elephant contest has been judged, it’s time for ritual humiliation as tourists huff and puff in a bid to beat a herd of lackadaisical elephants at tug-of-war. Inevitably, the tourists lose.
Desert Sailing
Pushkar Camel Fair tel. +91 (145) 277 2040
The Thar Desert turns Technicolor each October
I love Rajasthan’s colour and flair, but after a couple of weeks in the heaving cities
as folk dancers, handicraft vendors, magnificently
I craved a little peace. Lying on a mattress and indulging in desert stargazing,
moustachioed men and camels adorned with
I had found what I was looking for although travelling here was not a serene
bells and baubles descend en masse for one of
experience. Riding animals is not my preferred pastime and when Boss, my
Rajasthan’s biggest parties. Principally a place for
disobedient camel, scarpered as I tried to remount after a tea stop in a tribal
far-flung farmers to trade their livestock, it has
village, I almost gave up trying to sail this ‘ship of the desert’. The camel cart was
become a week-long cultural extravaganza: both
an even worse option though (you don’t want to be that close to the back end of
a place for rural Rajasthan dwellers to let their
a camel on a bumpy road), so I made my peace with Boss and we plodded to the
hair down and for visitors to get a dose of all that
simple and silent desert camp.
makes this such an incomparable corner of India.
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LATI UDE
Travel Fashionista
Glam The Palace of Illusions Chitra Banerjee Divakaruni R 200
Indian look bangles
Accessorize R155
Flat sandals
Alexander McQueen R5 080
Red “Aidan” tote Printed silk-chiffon maxi dress
Marc Jacobs R5 235
Roberto Cavalli R15 950
Photo camera
Leica M9-P “Edition Hermes”
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AN CI LO TT O
BY
RO BI N
SI HIG DE HC W LAS AL S KS
N.Y.C N.Y.C
W 14TH STREET MEATPACKING DISTRICT(NYC) Ever since the hottest protagonist of the legendary series Sex and the City’s Samantha Jones moved here, at the beginning of the 3rd season, the Meatpacking District has become the place to be, sleep, shop and eat, in Manhattan. The pride of the neighbourhood is W 14th street and its surrounds where it is not uncommon to share the same sidewalk with celebrities like Julianne Moore or Jessica Simpson.
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Fashion Street photo courtesy of Magda Biernat
SHOP:
Jeffrey Address: 449 West 14th Street Phone: +1 212 206-1272 www.jeffreynewyork.com
SLEEP:
Hotel Gansevoort Address: 18 9th Avenue Phone: + 1 212 206-6700 www.hotelgansevoort.com
WEAR:
Stella McCartney
EAT:
Spice Market Address: 403 West 13th Street Phone: +1 212 675-2322 www.spicemarketnewyork.com
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PARIS S
AVENUE MONTAIGNE 8TH ARRONDISSEMENT (PARIS) Considered la Grande Dame of Paris fashion streets, Avenue Montaigne is home to the most exclusive brands and together with Av. George V and Av. des Champs Élysées creates what people like to consider the world fashion gold triangle. This is an incredible evolution considering its former name, Allée des Veuves (Widows’ Lane) given to the street when women in mourning used to gather here.
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Fashion Street photo courtesy of Philippe Derouet
SHOP:
Dior Address: 30 Avenue Montaigne Phone: +33 01 40 73 73 73 www.dior.com
SLEEP:
Plaza AtheneĂŠ Address: 25 Avenue Montaigne Phone: +33 01 53 67 66 65 www.plaza-athenee-paris.com
WEAR:
Lanvin
EAT:
Maison Blanche Address: 25 Avenue Montaigne Phone: +33 01 47 23 55 99 www.maison-blanche.fr
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LO ONDON O
MOUNT STREET MAYFAIR (LONDON) Not even the 300% increase in commercial rent has stopped the world’s premium brands from queuing up to have their luxury boutiques here. Rich folks are in fact moving from the overly crowded Bond St. to this new London shopping Mecca much to the delight of Gerald Grosvenor, 6th Duke of Westminster, and Mount Street’s biggest landlord.
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Fashion Street
SHOP:
Christian Louboutin Address: 17 Mount Street Phone: +44 020 7491 0033 www.christianlouboutin.com
SLEEP:
The Connaught Hotel Address: 16 Carlos Place Phone: +44 020 7499 7070 www.the-connaught.co.uk
WEAR:
Marc Jacobs
EAT:
Scott’s Address: 20 Mount Street Phone: +44 020 7495 7309 www.scotts-restaurant.com
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MILAN
VIA DELLA SPIGA (MILAN) Representing one of the four sides of what we like to call the, ‘Quadrilatero della moda’ (literally fashion square), Via della Spiga is the best choice for a quiet stroll. The tiny street is closed to vehicles and considering the Italians’ driving reputation this is a characteristic not to be underestimated.
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LATI UDE
Fashion Street
SHOP:
Gio Moretti Address: Via della Spiga, 4 Phone: +39 02 760 03186 www.giomoretti.com
SLEEP:
The Carlton Hotel Baglioni Address: Via del Senato, 5 Phone: +39 02 77077 www.baglionihotels.com
WEAR:
Gucci
EAT:
Armani Nobu Restaurant Address: Via Manzoni, 31 Phone: +39 02 623 12645 www.noburestaurants.com
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Christmas GIFT GUIDE
by Fabrizio Riversi
DREAMS THAT SPARKLE. FASHIONS THAT SET THE MOOD The skies in the Southern Hemisphere are aswirl with colours emanating from celestial bodies, shining like jewels. This sea of stars, including Alpha Centauri (the brightest double star), Omega Centauri and the Southern Cross (the smallest but brightest constellation of all) , visible from South Africa, is a feast for the eyes. How could it be otherwise in this Rainbow Nation? While 45 of the 88 constellations shine up above, a kaleidoscope of colour can be found, in time for Christmas, in the most exclusive shopping centres.
Breil – Rings, Breilogy collection – Model in steel, with gray and champagne treatment, one row of white crystals: reference price, R690. Model in steel with gray cryst treatment, two rows of white and champagne crystals: treat reference price, R750. refer
cK Watches – cK Dress collection – Curved case in steel with integrated bracelet, dial in black mother of pearl, quartz movement. Reference price: R2 640.
Fossil – Fall/Winter 2012 collection – Bangle in polished steel with Fossil Signature: reference price: R680. Bangle in polished steel with Gold IP treatment: reference price: R760.
Diesel Timeframes – Fall/Winter 2012 collection – Case in steel (diameter: 51 mm), hour/minutes/ seconds-chronograph-dual time, black dial with Clous de Paris texture, two quartz movements, bracelet in steel. Reference price: R3 620.
DKNY Watches – Fall/Winter 2012 collection – Manchette model with rectangular case in steel, gray dial, quartz movement, bracelet in polished and brushed steel with Brown IP treatment and black crystals. Reference price: R2 410.
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Accessories
Breguet – Reine de Naples, ref. 8908 –White gold case with 117 diamonds (0,99 K) on the bezel, dial in black Tahiti mother of pearl and satin silver, self-winding caliber, bracelet made with white gold wires. Reference price: POA.
Montblanc – Bangle Pétales Entrelacés, Princesse Grace de Monaco collection – Pink gold. Reference price: POA.
Bulgari – Serpenti Collection – Case (in the form of a snake’s head) in pink gold with 6 diamonds (0,6 K), dial in black sapphire with quartz movement; double row in pink gold, Tubogas style, “scales” in black enameled pink gold with diamonds. Reference price: POA.
Forevermark - Setting Stud Earrings in white gold set with 2 x 0.15K G/H VSI diamonds. Jewellery’s equivalent of the LBD (little black dress) – diamond studs are a timeless classic that works effortlessly well whether you’re wearing jeans or an evening dress. Reference price: R9 900 (excl. VAT).
TAG Heuer – Link Lady – Case in steel, bezel with 47 diamonds (0,52 K), silver dial with Guilloché Soleil and 11 diamonds for indexes, quartz movement, bracelet in steel. Reference price: R46 000.
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LATI UDEBeauty
PLANEBeauty WHAT ARE THE THREE SECRETS OF IN-FLIGHT BEAUTY?
Akin to a famous Julia Child quote on French cuisine, it is ‘hydrating, hydrating and more hydrating!’ Dry cabin air is one of your skin’s worst enemies. LATITUDE’s beauty editor shares her secret armies for your beauty travel kit to help fight and win the battle.
Don’t even think about stepping onto a plane without a FACIAL MOISTURISER in your bag, just remember the 100ml limit, and look for something like ELIZABETH ARDEN 8 HOUR CREAM 50ml.
The skin on our lips is very delicate and can get seriously dry in the cabin. PROTECT YOUR LIPS with a specific product such as the CLARINS MOISTURE REPLENISHING LIP BALM 15ml.
PUFFY EYES are very common during and after a long haul flight, especially if you struggle to sleep. A good remedy is to apply an eye cream like BOBBY BROWN EXTRA EYE BALM 15ml every couple of hours.
Forget your miraculous clay MASK at home unless you want to scare off the other passengers. A sheet mask like ELEMIS DEEP CLEAN PURIFYING FACE MASK is the perfect solution for your long haul flight.
For an immediate release from that annoying DRY SKIN feeling don’t forget to pack a mineral water spray such as AVÈNE EAU THERMAL 50ml.
Age signs are visible on hands as much as on the face, so pack a quality product for your HANDS, like DR. HAUSHSKA HAND CREAM 50ml.
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LATI UDE
GET SUMMER AD
READY
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HAIR THE LATEST COLOURING TECHNIQUE FLAMBOYAGE FROM DAVINES enhances colour tones for natural looking hair
Flamboyage now available at Carlton Hair and selected Davines salon stockists. +27 11 791 3385 LATI UDE l DECEMBER 2012 // JANUARY 2013 T
no visible regrowth
61
Crazy FOR CRAYFISH
H ot off the braai (barbeque), the charred edges of the tail’s shell encase the white succulent flesh inside: the best part of the West Coast Rock Lobster which is commonly referred to as crayfish along this coastline. Properly cooked, the flesh should be firm not spongy, sweet, but reminiscent of the sea. The West Coast – weathered faces, fingers lined and shaped by anglers, wind and salt. The same fingers that celebrate the return of crayfish season by dipping hunks of pearlescent crayfish into melted butter and lemon. It’s a pricey crustacean once caught and sold further inland at restaurants. However, here at the edge of the ocean, crayfish can be bought for a song. The best way to cook it is by boiling it whole in seawater, butterfly, and grill on hot coals. Crayfish calls the kelp forests and rock pools of the West Coast home; interestingly it’s impossible to farm them because of their long and complex life-cycle. That’s why measures have been implemented to protect the species and fishing is only allowed during certain periods.
By hook, not crook The West Coast Rock Lobster is a protected species as they can take up to 40 years to grow to full maturity. Once plentiful, the population is now dwindling, so if you do plan to fish it, make sure that you only do so in season, lest you assist with the decimation of this national gourmet treasure. Visit your local post office to acquire a permit where they’ll be able to assist you with dates and regulations. Undersized, female crayfish that are carrying eggs must be returned to the water.
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CRAYFISH ON THE BRAAI WITH HOMEMADE PASTA
METHOD
MAKES:
6 servings
consistency. Once the dough is smooth and
PREP TIME:
50 mins
silky, it’s ready. Wrap the ball in clingfilm and
COOK TIME:
20 mins
let it rest in the fridge for 30 minutes. Then
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LATI Food Travel
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Place the flour on a flat surface. Make a well in the centre and crack the eggs into it. Use your fingers to combine eggs and flour, incorporating the mixture till a dough
separate the chilled ball of dough into four
THE CRAYFISH
sections and run each through the roller until you’ve reached desired thickness - at
6 crayfish tails
this point run it through the pasta cutters
3 limes, halved
for tagliatelle.
1 pot of seawater (or salted water) 1 cup of melted butter (more to taste)
THE DISH
Olive oil
Boil the crayfish in seawater until the shells
Chopped fresh green herbs: dill,
turn pink. Drain, pat off excess water and
chives, parsley
brush with melted butter. Season with salt,
HOMEMADE PASTA
pepper and herbs. Place on hot coals, shell face down, with the sliced limes. Once the
600g ‘00’ flour or Eureka Stone Ground
flesh turns opaque, it’s ready. While the
6 large free-range eggs
tails are cooking, boil salted water in a pot,
Pasta roller
add the pasta. Cook for four minutes. Drain
* If you don’t have a pasta roller a good
the pasta and toss with fresh herbs and
quality dried tagliatelle will do.
olive oil.
TRAWLING FOR WINE
Crayfish is the ultimate summertime dish; and its rich, sweet character is a marriage for equally rich white wines. Here we look at a white blend, a bubbly, and the ultimate pairing for crayfish cuisine: Chardonnay.
// VONDELING BABIANA This wine is sheer magic. It’s a complex combination of Chenin, Viognier, Chardonnay and Grenache Blanc. On the palate is a beautiful display of bright fruit, with a rich biscuit like base, a perfect match for the ‘fruit of the sea’.
// MÔRESON GALA Bubbly and crayfish is a hedonist’s delight. Môreson Gala has been bottle-fermented for 24 months and is a white Pinotage and Chenin Blanc blend. Fruit-forward, with sublime balance, this Méthode Cap Classique will be an elegant match for shellfish.
// LA MOTTE CHARDONNAY An homage to Chardonnay. Classically-styled, this wine has all the characteristics that make this grape so great: buttered toast, cashew nuts and citrus blossom. The ultimate table partner for crayfish.
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