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COMPLIMENTARY COPY - issue 4 - February/March 2013
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Inspiring travel and lifestyle
STOCKHOLM beyond the ordinary
Ibiza
the secret side
Stromboli
island of colours LATI UDE l FEBRUARY // MARCH 2013 T
Madagascar
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editor
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LETTER F
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i T LATI UDE MAGAZINE is published by GAIA GROUP Pty Ltd PUBLISHER: Robin Ancilotto - robin@latitudemag.co.za MANAGING EDITOR: Romolo Bali - romolo@latitudemag.co.za EDITOR: Astrid Stark - astrid@latitudemag.co.za COPY EDITOR: Caroline Cowan - cc@carolinecowancopy.com ONLINE EDITOR: Sandy Mitchell - info@sandymitchell.co.za DESIGN AND LAYOUT: Nicole Fuchs - nicole@creative low.co.za
ADVERTISING SALES & MARKETING MANAGER: Paul Stubbs - stubbsy@thegolf.co.za - Tel: +27 (0)71 0177185 Neil Jagger - neil@latitudemag.co.za - Tel: +27 (0)83 5563151 CONTRIBUTORS: Berarda Del Vecchio, Ela Hoevenaars, Malu Lambert, Carolina Mazzucchelli, Fabrizio Rinversi, Georgina Porteous CONTRIBUTING PHOTOGRAPHERS: Davide Dian, Federico Reiser COVER PHOTO CREDIT: Mona Loose/imagebank.sweden.se PRINTED IN: Cape Town CAPE TOWN HEAD OFFICE: 20, Stowe Crescent, Silvertree Estate, Tokai - P.O. Box 177, Private bag X26, Tokai 7966 - info@latitudemag.co.za
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LATI UDE MAGAZINE is published bimonthly by GAIA GROUP and distributed nationwide. Copyright subsists in all work published in LATI UDE MAGAZINE We welcome submissions but retain the unrestricted right to change any received copy. We are under no obligation to return unsolicited manuscript. The magazine, or part thereof, may not be reproduced or adapted without the prior written permission of the publisher. We take care to ensure that our articles, and other editorial content, are accurate and balanced, but cannot accept responsibility for loss, damage or inconvenience that may arise from reading them. T
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TRAVELLING THE GLOBE... FEBRUARY 2013 - MARCH 2013
GEORGINA PORTEOUS An Australian-born, freelance writer, self-proclaimed food critic and nature lover, Georgina is currently living in Ibiza with her husband Jamie. She is a regular contributor to Ibiza Style, Ibiza’s leading lifestyle magazine, and writes regularly for a variety of agencies in Australia, the UK and Spain, which makes her the perfect writer to reveal the secret Ibiza.
Island Hopping
The Secret Side
Island of Colours
BERARDA DEL VECCHIO Born and raised in Rome, Berarda has published three books and collaborated with several magazines such as Cosmopolitan and Marie Claire. In 2009 she moved to Sweden because of love. She lives in Stockholm with her partner and their two children and she shares her insight into this beautiful city with us in her Stockholm article. She teaches Italian, but dreams of living in a typical red house near Lake Mälaren, to grow vegetables and strawberries.
Paradise Found ROMOLO BALI Romolo Bali is a journalist and he collaborates with Republic and L’Espresso Publishing Group, signing services on special issues and guides. He has been working in the publishing business for more than twenty years, as the editorial director for international magazines such as Luxury Files and Fashion Files. Currently, he holds a similar office for the new female Italian magazine Women. He lives and works in Rome and in this issue he shares his Stromboli experience.
FABRIZIO RINVERSI After Fabrizio became Chief Editor of the magazine, L’Orologio, he was later appointed as Director of La Clessidra. Until 2011 he was the Director of the magazine, Luxury Files. He currently collaborates as watch editor with the newspapers, Il Giornale, Libero and Repubblica, with Tourbillon (the most important watch yearbook in Italy), Chrono Passion, and Monsieur. Fabrizio is a natural fit for editing the watch and jewellery segment of LATI UDE. T
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CONTENTS TS T
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Inspiring travel and lifestyle
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Word of Mouth GLOBE TROTTERS’ RECOMMENDATIONS
Appointments
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LAST MINUTE TRAVEL IDEAS
SA Agenda ‘NOT TO BE MISSED’ LOCAL EVENTS
Harvest Special THE GRAPE ESCAPE
THE BLACK FLOWER
Travel Fashionista
‘NOT TO BE MISSED’ INTERNATIONAL EVENTS
A Look Beyond Borders
Food Travel
IT’S TIME FOR AFRICA
Travel Accessories AVANT-GARDE & SPORTY DESIGN
Travel Beauty TIPS FOR SUN DAMAGED HAIR
Book Review ARCHIPELAGO BY MONIQUE ROFFEY
10 Things to do in... CEDERBERG
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Stromboli THE ISLAND OF COLOURS
Insider’s Guide ISLAND HOPPING IN STOCKHOLM
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The Special Place SECRET IBIZA
Madagascar BEYOND THE ORDINARY
Hen ri k Try g g /i m ag e bank.sweden.se
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LATI UDE UDE essentials LATI travel
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GLOBE TROTTERS’ RECOMMENDATIONS
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TRENDY
THE LOFT LOUNGE – BUCHAREST (ROMANIA)
“THE PLACE TO BE SEEN IN TOWN, THIS RESTAURANT OFFERS GREAT ATMOSPHERE, CUTTING EDGE DESIGN AND SOPHISTICATED FRENCH FOOD.” ELA BREATHTAKING
EL TELEFERICO – MADRID (SPAIN)
ORGANIC MERCATO DI ORTIGIA – SIRACUSA (ITALY)
“The freshest and most varied choice of fruits, vegetables and fish, each described by the sellers in unique songs sung in local dialect.” Danila
Credit: Maria Luengo
“BEST DESTINATION TO ENJOY ONE OF THE CITY’S BEST PANORAMAS. THE CABLEWAY BRINGS YOU FROM THE PARQUE DEL OESTE TO CASA DE CAMPO.” SONYA
FRAGRANT
LA SAVONNERIE DE LA LICORNE – MARSEILLE (FRANCE)
ARTISTIC
PAA JOE COFFIN - ACCRA (GHANA)
“THIS TINY BOUTIQUE IS MUCH MORE THAN A SIMPLE SOAP SHOP. IT IS TRADITION AND A NOT TO BE MISSED ADDRESS TO ‘SMELL’ REAL LOCAL FLAVOURS.” FRANCOISE
LUSH
MO&ROSE at SOEKERSHOF – ROBERSTON (SOUTH AFRICA) “UNFORGETTABLE HOSPITALITY IN THE HEART OF ROBERTSON VALLEY AND THE OPPORTUNITY TO VISIT THE PRIVATE GARDEN, KNOWN AS A SANCTUARY OF NATURAL BEAUTY AND HOME TO 200 BIRD SPECIES.” MARC
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Credit: Radio Nederland Wereldomroep
“Ever thought to custom make your own coffin and is this even a real work of art? Visit Paa Joe workshop in Pobiman.” John
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FEBRUARY 20 - 26
Fashion Milan Fashion Week Milan www.fashionweekonline.com
MARCH 20 - 23
Fair Art Dubai 2013 Dubai www.artdubai.ae
FEBRUARY 21 - MARCH 03
Irina Schmidt / Shutterstock.com
AROUND THE WORLD
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MARCH 23 - JULY 28 Retrospective David Bowie Is London www.vam.ac.uk
FEBRUARY 23 - MARCH 03
Shows and Concerts Montréal en Lumière Montréal www.montrealenlumiere.com
Produce International Agriculture Show Paris www.salon-agriculture.com
FEBRUARY 21 - MAY 27
bigmagic / Shutterstock.com
Retrospective Roy Lichtenstein at the Tate London www.tate.org.uk
MARCH 17
Sport Rome’s Marathon Rome www.maratonadiroma.it
FEBRUARY 28 - APRIL 04 Comedy and Food Not Quite Cabaret Sydney www.notquitecabaret.com
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LATI UDE UNFORGETTABLE MOMENTS on the road less travelled
The world’s leading luxury experiential travel company. 33 extraordinary safari lodges and camps, 3 000 destinations in Africa and South Asia.
www.andBeyond.com
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LAST MINUTE TRAVEL IDEAS
HAVANA NIGHTS
FIESTA FOR A FEW DAYS
FIND YOUR INNER SENSE IN BALI
Before the rains come and humidity levels creep too high for comfort, there are a couple of reasons to catch the next flight to Cuba. Cigar enthusiasts from all over the world get together for Havana’s International Cigar Festival running from 26 February until 2 March. This year special tribute will be paid to the Cohiba and Romeo y Julieta. For sultry Cuban nights, the Havana Spring International Electroacoustic Music Festival, organised by electroacoustic music composer and pioneer, Juan Blanco, kicks off mid-March.
Early March is a time of celebration in Argentina. As the harvest season draws to an end, the streets of Mendoza turn into the greatest party of the year, the Fiesta Nacional de la Vendimia. Intense and vibrant, this is a festival that doesn’t sleep with a night parade, day parade, traditional costumes and host of performances. A Vendimia Queen is crowned during the “Acto Central”, from there, it’s best to simply let the celebrations carry you along.
March is a time of self-reflection and cleansing as the Balinese New Year approaches. In the weeks leading up to Nyepi or “day of silence” you’ll see many strange, scary creatures called Ogoh-Ogoh come to life. These figures are burned on the eve of the New Year as a symbol of purification. And as the rainy season comes to an end it is time to soak your soul in yoga, dance and music. The Bali Spirit Festival from 20 to 24 March is about awakening and nourishing the potential for positive change within.
PAINT THE TOWN GREEN
BURSTS OF COLOUR IN INDIA
BLOSSOMS AND BUDDHA IN JAPAN
In true Irish hospitality, Dublin welcomes around 8 000 people from around the world to join in the St Patrick’s Day March on 17 March. Grab a Guinness and experience Ireland’s most popular festival first hand. Part of the festival includes “greening the city” with businesses and venues all around Dublin switching to green lights for the duration. The natural bright green of the Irish countryside also intensifies at this time of year as spring arrives: a good time to visit before all the tourists arrive.
The Holi Festival in India arrives in an explosion of colour on 27 March. Known as the “Festival of colours”, the victory of good over evil is celebrated by smearing pastes of many colours all over people’s faces and being sprayed with coloured water and powders so wear something old. Visit Rajasthan for more displays of bright colours and jewels during the Gangaur Festival from 13 to 14 April. This spring festival is dedicated to the goddess of abundance and is marked by fasting, pujas and an elaborate procession.
While the cherry blossoms begin to bloom the Japanese get ready to celebrate the birth of Buddha with flowers. This year Hana Matsuri falls on 8 April. You will see small shrines decorated with flowers, figurines of Buddha and street parades. Spend the day visiting the various temples in Tokyo, sampling the sweet, holy tea. Japan’s most spectacular floats can be seen in Takayama during the Takayama Matsuri on 14 and 15 April. The Sakurayama Hachimangu shrine comes alive with traditional ceremonies and folk performances that date back to the 15th century.
www.welcometomendoza.com
www.balitourismboard.org www.balispiritfestival.com
Patryk Kosmider / Shutterstock.com
www.habanos.com www.cubaabsolutely.com
www.stpatricksfestival.ie
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www.holifestival.org www.rajassthantourism.gov.in
www.gotokyo.org www.jnto.go.jp
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EAST LONDON / 14 TO 17 FEBRUARY
AFRICA OPEN GOLF CHALLENGE www.africaopengolf.com
One of the most important tournaments on the African golfing calendar. World champs converge in East London to play at this prestigious event.
CAPE TOWN / 25 FEBRUARY
VEUVE CLICQUOT MASTERS www.valdevie.co.za/polo
Sophistication is the order of the day as VIPs, socialites and celebrities dress to impress, Sip on Veuve Clicquot champagne, and watch polo played on the world-class Val de Vie polo fields in Cape Town.
STELLENBOSCH / 1 TO 10 MARCH
JOHANNESBURG / 7 TO 10 MARCH
NATIONAL / 9 TO 12 MARCH 2013
2013 WOORDFEES
JOBURG FASHION WEEK www.afi.za.com
THE ROYAL CONCERTGEBOUW ORCHESTRA (RCO)
Get you fill of fashion as the autumn/winter collections of South Africa’s top designers are unveiled. In its fifth year, this is the place for trend spotting, fashion buyers and fashionistas.
Celebrating its 125th year in the music world, the orchestra will play in Cape Town, Durban and Pretoria. It will also participate in educational and community related work in Cape Town, Umlazi Township and Soweto.
www.woordfees.co.za Literature meets wine in Stellenbosch during the 2013 Woordfees (Word Festival), where you can mingle with your favourite authors and literary personalities, while sipping on a fine vintage.
www.joburgtheatre.com
CAPE TOWN / 12 TO 16 MARCH
CAPE TOWN / 5 TO 6 APRIL
STELLENBOSCH // CAPE TOWN / 01 TO 10 NOVEMBER
INFECTING THE CITY
CAPE TOWN JAZZ FESTIVAL
CAPE WINELANDS FILM FESTIVAL
Cape Town will once again come alive with displays of public art that invite audiences to take a new look at the city, its citizens and its spaces. Local and international artists will be unveiling mixed media artworks across the city.
Held at the Cape Town International Convention Centre (CTICC), and with the best of local and international musicians playing great music, you want to book your tickets early.
A selection of South African films, shorts and documentaries, focusing on the theme of Reconciliation and Acceptance of “The Other”, will be screened at Oude Libertas Auditorium and Amphitheatre in Stellenbosch, as well as venues in Cape Town.
www.infectingthecity.com
www.films-for-africa.co.za
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www.capetownjazzfest.com
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HANEPOOT PICKING AT DE KRANS
Escape AS THE HEAT OF SUMMER STARTS TO GIVE WAY TO AUTUMN, THE CAPE WINELANDS ENTERS ITS HARVEST SEASON, A TIME WHEN EVERYONE IS INVITED TO JOIN IN THE FUN, AND GET INVOLVED IN THIS IMPORTANT STEP IN THE WINEMAKING PROCESS. FARMS ALL OVER THE WINELANDS OPEN THEIR VINEYARDS TO THE PUBLIC FOR SOME PICKING, STOMPING AND SAMPLING.
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www.dekrans.co.za Pick your own sweet, juicy Hanepoot grapes during the months of February and March in Calitzdorp. Once you have filled your basket you can relax with some of the award-winning De Krans wines. Their 2009 Cape Vintage Reserve Port has a 5-star rating in the 2012 Platter’s South African Wine Guide and the Cape Tawny Port is a double gold medal winner at the 2011 Michelangelo International Wine Awards.
THE FEAST OF THE GRAPE www.durbanvillewine.co.za At the end of March, winemakers from Durbanville Valley open their cellar doors for a day of grape stomping, wine making, wine tasting and sampling of grape inspired menus and picnics. Join the festive mood at Groot Phesantekraal Farm (Phizante Kraal Wines), Klein Roosboom, De Vallei, Nitida, Meerendal, Hillcrest, Durbanville Hills, Diemersdal, De Grendel, D’Aria, Bloemendal and Altydgedacht.
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Harvest Special
HANDS-ON-HARVEST ROBERTSON www.handsonharvest.com
EIKENDAL WEINTAUFE HARVEST CELEBRATION www.eikendal.com
FROM LEFT TO RIGHT: Eikendal Weintaufe Harvest Celebration Hands-on-harvest Robertson Eikendal Weintaufe Harvest Celebration The Feast of the Grape Hanepoot picking at De Krans Hands-on-harvest Robertson Darling Cellars Crush Day The Feast of the Grape
If you consider yourself a wine aficionado and can’t wait for a more hands-on wine experience, then you need to join the festivities from 22-24 February. The estates of Robertson Valley are extending a unique offer to all aspiring winemakers: a chance to experience a real wine harvest as you learn, pick, sort and taste to your heart’s content. Places are limited so book soon.
Watch the naming of the first wine of the Eikendal harvest in a special ‘baptism’ ceremony and taste this specially selected and newly named wine straight from the barrel. The 18th annual Weintaufe takes place on 3 March and it is one of the highlights of events taking place in Stellenbosch, featuring delicious wines, food and fun for all.
DARLING CELLARS CRUSH DAY
WELLINGTON HARVEST FESTIVAL
CRUSH ON CONSTANTIA
www.darlingcellars.co.za
www.wellington.co.za
www.grootconstantia.co.za
Spend 2 March starting out with breakfast before going to the vines to pick and then crush your own grapes. About 10 months later, your own bottle of wine will arrive. Enter the label design competition and stay on to enjoy a west coast lunch and Darling wines.
Enjoy the spoils of the harvest and celebrate the wines of the Boland with some 20 wine and brandy cellars in the Wellington region. From 16 to 17 March, each farm, from Diemersfontein to Bovlei to Nabygelegen, offers good food, live entertainment and a selection of their finest wines.
Join the garden party on 18 February and indulge in award-winning wines, tasty treats from Constantia’s best restaurants, market shopping and live music. There is no better way to spend the day Celebrating all things Constantia, this is the perfect way to get back into another good year.
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the magnificent malaria free Waterberg where you will be spoilt by the team from Ant’s Nest and Ant’s Hill. These two privately owned bush homes are designed to offer you a specialized home-from-home experience which can be booked exclusively or not. Enjoy fabulous horse riding safaris, guided bush walks or game drives on their privately owned property as well as al fresco wining and dining with a view. Flexibility is what they pride themselves in, tailor making guests stay with them. Suitable for honeymooners, riders, families, or just good friends travelling together.
www.waterberg.net and www.ridingsouthafrica.com Tel: +27 14 755 3584 or +27 81 5722624 Email: reservations@waterberg.net
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10 Things to do in
10 THINGS TO DO IN...
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ILD AND WIDE-OPEN MOUNTAINS THAT LOOM LARGE,
ROOIBOS TEA BUSHES THAT NESTLE AMONG THE RUGGED ROCK FORMATIONS WHILE CITRUS ORCHARDS PEEP POLITELY FROM THE VALLEYS BELOW: THE CEDERBERG MAY ONLY BE TWO HOURS AWAY FROM CAPE TOWN, BUT IT IS ONE OF THE MOST UNDISTURBED AREAS IN SOUTH AFRICA. THIS 100KM MOUNTAIN RANGE FORMS PART OF THE CAPE FLORAL KINGDOM AND IS PROTECTED BY SURROUNDING CONSERVANCIES. IT IS A WORLD THAT BEGS TO BE EXPLORED EITHER BY FOOT, ON HORSEBACK, WHILE HANGING ON TO THE SIDE OF A ROCK FACE, OR SOAKING IN MOUNTAIN SPRING WATERS. By Caroline Cowan
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LATI UDE WALK, CLAMBER, AND BOULDER There is a trail suitable for everyone, from easy day hikes to the Wolfberg Cracks or the Maltese Cross or even just a short amble from Algeria Forest Station to Middleberg Waterfall. For the more adventurous, the Cederberg Heritage Route and Cederberg Wilderness Trails, offer a variety of multi-day walking trails.
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World-class bouldering can be found at Rocklands, near the Pakhuis Pass in the Northern Cederberg. @ www.cederberg.com
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SIP ON WINE
Sip on wine as dramatic as the land that made it. The highest altitude vineyards in the Cape, Cederberg Private Cellar, uses the remote location, cold climate, pure mountain air and spring water to produce wines that have won many awards including the Michaelangelo double gold for its Cederberg Shiraz 2010. @ www.cederbergwine.com
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GAZE AT THE STARS
SPLASH, PICNIC AND PLAY
STOP AND SMELL
With unpolluted, clear night skies, the stars you’ll see in the Cederberg are brilliant and bright. The Cederberg Astronomical Observatory invites the general public to visit and view the stars every Saturday night. See planets, comets, nebulae and open clusters. You may even be transported to another galaxy while looking through one of the Observatory’s powerful telescopes.
The Cederberg has fresh mountain water in abundance and the many mountain rock pools make the perfect picnic spots. Whether you want to cool off after some vigorous hiking or just spend the day wallowing in cool waters, there is a pool of perfection waiting for you. Try the Maalgat rock pools and waterfalls close to the Wolfberg Cracks. For a more active day in the water, try Clanwilliam or Bulshoek Dams for a fun, family day of waterskiing.
The Cederberg is home to the largest variety of wildflower species, many of which can’t be found anywhere else in the world. Carpets of flowers open up after the winter rains from late July through to September and the Clanwilliam Flower Show blooms in late August. September to October is the best time to see flowering fynbos species at their best. Elandsberg Eco-reserve offers flower tours while Ramskop Nature Reserve and the Botanical Garden are worth a visit.
@ www.cederbergobs.org.za
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GO EXPLORING Explore the historical town of Clanwilliam. One of the ten oldest towns in South Africa, Clanwilliam is picture perfect with Cape Dutch homesteads, vineyards, orange orchards and dams all guarded by the ever present Cederberg mountains. Take a historical guided tour around town or just a stroll down Park and Main streets and get lost in the charms of this old settler town. @ www.clanwilliam.info
ON HORSEBACK
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Give yourself a rest and see the Cederberg from the saddle. A few guest houses and farms offer horseback riding in the mountains. Go and visit the Salmanslaagte rock art caves from Travellers Rest or saddle up in Karukareb Wilderness Reserve, Mount Cedar Lodge or Kromrivier for a different Cedeberberg experience. @ www.travellersrest.co.za @ www.karukareb.co.za @ www.mountceder.co.za
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RELAX WITH A CUP OF RED
SAY, “I DO�
HOT SPRINGS
The Cederberg is where the world famous Rooibos tea comes from. The clean air and peaks of the Cederberg are perfect for the growth of the Rooibos tea bush, and in fact, this is the only place where it is found. Take a tea farm tour at Elandsberg to see how this unique plant gets from craggy mountain side to your morning cuppa.
For many, getting married amongst the rugged rock formations of the Cederberg is a dream. Bushmans Kloof Wilderness Reserve and Wellness Retreat is nestled in the foothills of the Cederberg Mountains. Bushmanskloof Wilderness Reserve and Pikenierskloof Lodge are favourite wedding locations for couples.
Soak your walk-weary body in the mineral hot water springs in Citrusdal, situated only two hours drive from Cape Town on a citrus farm in the scenic Olifants River Valley. The Baths are 43 degree celsius with natural hot water as well as cooling natural rock pools that invite you to simply relax and let go.
@ www.elandsberg.co.za +27 (0)27 482 2022
@ www.bushmanskloof.co.za +27 (0)21 481 1860
@ www.thebaths.co.za +27 (0)22 921 8026/7
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BY ENTERING OUR COMPETITION, you stand a very real chance of fulfilling your dreams. Madikwe Game Reserve is situated in South Africa’s North West Province and it is home to 66 large mammal species and thousands of hectares of unspoilt nature.
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VISIT our website: www.latitudemag.co.za
2. SUBSCRIBE to our newsletter
This luxury lodge is offering one night’s accommodation for two people at Madikwe Hills Private Game Lodge, and one night’s accommodation,
COMPETITION RULES:
again for two, at Tuningi Safari Lodge. The two lodges are a mere 45
- Entrants must be 18-years or older.
minute drive from each other so the winners may easily experience both. All meals are included. Drinks are excluded.
- Competition deadline is 31 March 2013. - There will be no cash or other alternative to the prize offered and prizes are not transferable. - The winner must make a reservation with the
Fedair will provide flight tickets for two people.
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lodge 4 weeks prior to departure date.
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Cultural Trip
A LIFE-LONG SEEKER OF WILD, UNCONTAMINATED NATURE AND LOVER OF SHARP CHROMATIC CONTRASTS, THE ISLAND OF STROMBOLI, ONE OF THE SEVEN ‘SISTERS’ OF THE SICILIAN ARCHIPELAGO, THE AEOLIAN ISLANDS. By Romolo Bali
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Cultural Trip
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Colours of the island
ecorative bougainvillea and red lava contrast with the variegated display of blue sea, black beaches of volcanic origin and white houses of the tiny town sitting directly below the volcano. It is immediately clear that the essence and magic of this island of Stromboli are held in its strong colours. Here the colours are so crisp, they sometimes appear to have been painted with the bold, florid strokes of an artist. An excursion up Mount Stromboli, which takes about three hours to walk, takes me from layer to layer of breathtaking contrast: up above, the tar black crater pops out against a vivid and seemingly fake backdrop of the cloudless blue sky, the sea below runs in stripes ranging from light green to crystal blue. In the meantime the volcano has begun another of its micro-eruptions and an infinite number of red lapilli illuminate the scene, spitting heavenward. The intense vigour of the landscape and its dramatic expressions intensify the already electric atmosphere. Here the four natural elements dominate and it is here that one discovers - as in few other places - how infinitely small we are compared to the magnitude of nature. With nightfall a unique experience awaits. Stromboli has never had any streetlamps, ever, a decision that reinforces the ‘wildness’ of this unique location. At sunset, hundreds of electric torches appear from pockets and handbags, creating an evocative chase of tiny lights pulsating along the streets of the island. And stopping to look up at the stars is an act made that much more spectacular by the absolute darkness surrounding them: bright spots of colour in the much used canvas of the island, this time in the sky.
‘Issu’, the volcano ever-used
reference
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even tourists adopt after just a few hours on the island. ‘Issu’ is considered one of the most active volcanoes in the world, with continuous eruptions, usually small explosions, happening about every 10 to 15 minutes, an incredibly fascinating natural spectacle. There is something extraordinary about a summer night on Stromboli when small
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trails of incandescent lava roll slowly along the crater down to the sea, reaching out to the boats anchored just off the island.
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The locals talk about it with respect and apprehension. Issu is the
The intense vigour of the landscape and its dramatic expressions intensify the already electric atmosphere.
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YTHOLOG
STROMBOLICCHIO PHOTOGRAPH CREDIT: Davide Dian
PHOTOGRAPH CREDIT: Davide Dian
GINOSTRA
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Not to be missed: Ginostra
mong the numerous natural and cultural interests Stromboli has to offer, a must-do is a sojourn in Ginostra, a small village of only fifty inhabitants overlooking the sea, and accessible only by boat. Enjoy the sunset in its full glory - from the other side of the island there is only a partial view - and dine at one of the restaurants that adorn the village. To avoid disappointment remember to book both your boat trip and your table. Departure is before sunset and the return journey is at midnight after dinner, during which an evocative display of red lava set against the star-filled night makes for the perfect farewell to the day.
Curiosity: Cars? No, thank you!
Among the many peculiarities of Stromboli is the fact that cars are not allowed on the island. So the only way to get around, apart from bicycle or scooter, is the ‘moto-ape’, a tiny vehicle that for half a century has serviced tourists and locals alike in transporting their luggage and various goods. It is also used by rescue services and the police.
Stromboli and cinema: The mythological ingrid Stromboli has been chosen as a natural setting for many films made by internationally renowned directors. The most memorable is “Stromboli, land of God”, filmed by the great director Roberto Rossellini in 1950. A few months before filming, the lead actress, Ingrid Bergman, a three-times Oscar winner, sent a letter to the director asking if she could partake in the movie. The film used many locals from the island as extras - they hosted the director, actors and troops for some weeks in their houses - and was a great success in Italy. The work also made history as the start of a long relationship that developed between the director and Swedish actress, which bore them three children.
how to get there / where to stay Among the seven Aeolian islands, Stromboli is the furthest North. It is accessible by sea from both Sicily and Campania via a dense network of connections through numerous ports. The Island of the Volcano- even in its modest dimensions - offers accomodation to suit any need and budget. From the B&Bs spread across the island, to apartments of various sizes and prices up to a host of exclusive three and four star hotels that offer rooms looking out onto the unique panorama of the Tyrrhenian Sea. Visit www.eolnet.it for information on boats, with connections directly from the airports.
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PHOTOGRAPH CREDIT: Federico Raiser
Sirenetta Park Hotel Via Marina, 33
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+39 0909 86025
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www.lasirenetta.it
Set a few steps away from the black beach opposite Strombolicchio rock, Sirenetta Hotel is a classic example of Eolian architecture in which each living space is independant and immersed among the flowers and trees of a luxuriant Sicilian garden.
Hotel Ossidiana Via Marina, 98050 | +39 0909 86006 | www.hotelossidiana.it
Situated only 10 metres from Scari beach, an ancient fishing village, and nowadays the tourist centre of the island, this is the ideal starting point for experiencing all that Stromboli has to offer: boat trips, volcano trips, shopping, typical restaurants, and a visit to the volcanological museum.
Hotel Miramare Via Vito Nunziante, 3
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+39 0909 86047
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www.hotelmiramare.it
Inaugurated in 1928 this is the oldest hotel on Stromboli. Its enviable position on Ficogrande beach, overlooking the most crystal clear waters of the entire island, adds a striking tone to a particularly comfortable and relaxing stay.
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THERE IS SOMETHING EXTRAORDINARY ABOUT A SUMMER NIGHT IN STROMBOLI . . . STROMBOLI MARE
STROMBOLI MARE
PHOTOGRAPH CREDIT: Davide Dian
LA TARTANA RESTAURANT
Ritrovo Ingrid Restaurant Piazza San Vincenzo, Stromboli
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This is the most popular restaurant-bar of the island, named after the actress Ingrid Bergman who stayed in a house near the restaurant during the shooting of her film. Set high up, in the centre of the main piazza, it offers spectacular views of the whole island.
La Tartana Restaurant Via Regina Elena, Stromboli
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+39 0909 86025
La Tartana offers an immaculate buffet lunch and dinner for discerning palates, to be enjoyed from the elegant balcony, which is decorated with large cushions, multicoloured candles and a direct view of the sea. All dishes are dedicated to the great tradition of fresh fish, cooked according to ancient recipes of the Eolians.
L’incontro Restaurant Ginostra Locality | +39 0909 812305 Access only by sea. Booking is essential. With a design similar to the bridge of a ship, this restaurant is famous for the traditional maritime cuisine of the Eolie and also for its impressive view of the sea, especially at sunset.
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Insider’s Guide Photograph Credit: Ola Ericson/imagebank.sweden.se
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OLD TOWN (GAMLA STAN) Photograph Credit: Jeppe Wikstrom
FROM THAT ERA, ONE CAN STILL FIND ITS CHARM BY WANDERING DOWN NARROW DARK STREETS AND GAZING AT THE OLD AUSTERE BUILDINGS.
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KUNGSTRÄDGÅRDEN Photograph Credit: Henrik Trygg/imagebank.sweden.se
Another stop not to be missed is Gamla Stan, the old city. Stockholm was founded here on this tiny island in the mid XIII Century, medieval times. From that era, one can still find its charm by wandering down narrow dark streets and gazing at the old austere buildings. From Stortoget, the main square, it’s best to pay a visit to the royal castle before heading to the southern part of the city.
VIEW OVER DJURGÅRDEN Photograph Credit: Ola Ericson/imagebank.sweden.se
Crossing Skeppsbron bridge, perhaps the most striking (from here there is nearly an entire panorama of the city), you arrive at Södermalm, the so-called island of artists. Today this area has no remnants of its once working class suburb, apart from the old factories that have been converted into dance schools and galleries, like MuchenBryggeriet, or the small quaint red houses, once labourers’ homes, now sought after abodes. To get a feel of its ambiance, just go down Gamla Lundagatan or stop in at Vita Berg, a beautiful park which is ideal for an open-air picnic. The last island in this stroll through the centre of Stockholm is Kungsholmen, a residential area, famous for the town hall, Stadhus, an imposing red, construction built in the twenties, characterised by a tower with the Three Crowns, symbol of Sweden, and moreover world famous for the lunch held in the main hall of the Palace in honour of the Nobel Prize. After a visit to the town hall it’s a lovely walk along the Norr Mälastrand, the elongated lake of Kungsholmen, to admire the view of the neighbouring island Södermalm from the water, and snack at the Mälarpaviljongen, a bar-verandah, where, with a shrimp salad and a beer, one can finally unwind and enjoy Stockholm.
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5/ OPERA KÄLLAREN
www.grandhotel.se l +46 8 679 3500 Södra Blasieholmshammen 8
www.operakallaren.se l +46 8 676 5800 The Royal opera House, Karl XII:S torg
Splendid location with seaviews and a few steps away from both the shopping district and the greener areas for quiet walks.
Stylish and elegant with a great selection of Swedish food to satisfy any palate.
2/ BERNS
6/ BAKFICKAN DJURET
www.berns.se l +46 8 566 32200 Berzei Park
www.djuret.se l +46 8 506 40084 Lilla Nygatan 5
Hotel, restaurant and nightclub, all in one. A historical Swedish meeting place with the old turn of the century charm that continues to entertain and host fashion shows, concerts and events.
Not exactly ideal for vegetarians. This restaurant specialises in meat, and every month is dedicated to a different animal, to relish it in all sauces, from the hors d’oeuvres to just about the dessert.
3/ LÅNGHOLMEN HOTEL
7/ B.A.R.
www.langholmen.com l +46 8 720 8500 Långholmensmuren 20
www.restaurangbar.se l +46 8 611 5335 Blasieholmen
Have you ever wondered what it must be like to sleep in a prison? Here, in an ex-prison transformed into a hotel, you can finally experience the thrill of sleeping in a cell with all the comforts of an excellent hotel.
Fish, fish and more fish. Extremely fresh. Chosen directly from the counter and enjoyed while comfortably seated in the restaurant hall, or as takeaway to cook at home at leisure.
4/ MALARDROTTINGEN
8/ KVARNEN
www.malardrottningen.se l +46 8 120 9000 Riddarholmen 111
www.kvarnen.com l +46 8 643 0380 Tjärhovsgatan 4
Splendid and sophisticated yacht right in the middle of Stockholm. A great way to experience the city to the max from a unique point of view.
For those who have read Stieg Larsson, this typical Swedish pub is where you can try herring, salmon fillet and the classic meatballs with mashed potato.
30 APRIL l WALPURGIS NIGHT An evening to celebrate the arrival of spring with bonfires, choral singing, and dancing. A tradition practised in Sweden since 1894.
20 TO 26 JUNE l MIDSOMMARAFTON (MIDSUMMER’S EVE) The celebration of the summer solstice is a very ancient practice dating back to pre-Christian times. The Swedes sing and dance in the hope of a good harvest and a good year. Legend has it that the night before Midsummer’s Day is a magical time for love which means single maidens will dream of their future husbands.
13 DECEMBER l LUCIADAGEN (LUCIA DAY) Marks the beginning of the Swedish holidays and is celebrated by families re-enacting the story of Lucia, a young woman who was prepared to die for her Christian beliefs. The oldest girl in the home is nominated as ‘Lucia’ and at first light she serves the family coffee and special saffron buns.
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Photograph Credit: Cecilia Larsson/imagebank.sweden.se.jpg
Photograph Credit: Tuukka Ervasti:imagebank.sweden.se
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BRUNO
www.nk.se l Hamngatan 18
www.brunogotgatsbacken.se l Götgatan 36
This is the stylish meeting place in town where you can enjoy shopping for fashion, accessories, interior design and food. Should you also need tailors, shoemakers, cafés and restaurants; you will find yourself right at home.
This micro-mall, which opened up in 2004, consolidates Götgatan’s status as one of Stockholm’s hippest shopping streets. There’s a café in the atrium, a cool bar, and several typically Swedish stores.
PUB
STURE GALLERIAN
www.pub.se l Hötorget
www.sturegallerian.se l Stureplan 4
Stockholm’s oldest department store: Greta Garbo used to work in their hat shop in 1922. Premier retailer for Swedish fashion and interior design, featuring Carin Wester, GANT, Tiger of Sweden, Fifth Avenue Shoe Repair, Whyred and more.
In the center of Stockholm, this renovated mall has a dazzling array of foreign and domestic merchandise that’s sold within at least 60 specialty shops (including bars and restaurants).
JUDIT
ÅHLENS
www.judits.se l Hörnsgatan 75
www.ahlens.se l Klarabergsgatan 50
Judit loves the mix of old and new. The store is continuously updated with bags and jewellery that they buy on trips around the world.
The ultimate address for stylish Swedish fashion, accessories, make-up, electronic accessories and décor.
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Photograph Credit: Tuukka Ervasti:imagebank.sweden.se
A funny and tender coming-of-age story set in the Swedish backwater of Pajala in Tornedalen. Discover Sweden through the eyes of a young boy in a rural backdrop - at once foreign and familiar - as a magical childhood slowly fades with the seasons into adult reality.
Photograph Credit: Tuukka Ervasti:imagebank.sweden.se
Popular Music from Vittula by Mikael Niemi
Photograph Credit: Tuukka Ervasti:imagebank.sweden.se
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INTERVIEW WITH
CHEF MALIN SÖDERSTRÖM The popularity of Swedish chefs is on the rise after they scooped a gold medal in the Cooking Olympics in Erfurt, Germany, last year. Malin Söderström is one of the most celebrated chefs in Sweden and the first woman in the Swedish Culinary Team. She currently manages the MODERNA MUSEUM RESTAURANT in Stockholm.
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How did you know that you will become a chef? I never knew that it was possible for me to be a chef, professionally. When it was time to choose our high school training, the practical side of study was not discussed. However, one day I heard about another girl, one year older than me, who went in a Restaurant and food program in Sandviken, and this is where my search started.
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In 2011 you cooked the Nobel Prize dinner, which means you catered for 1400 guests. Tell us about your experience. I was commissioned in February to prepare a dinner which was set to take place in December. At first it felt like a nightmare but as time went on my excitement grew. In the end it was delightful to have 48 chefs in the kitchen, and everything worked out the way it was meant to be.
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Sweden is considered one of the leading countries with regards to gender equality. However, the winner of The Chef of the Year Award is always male. Do you have an explanation for this? It may be due to the mood and atmosphere of a kitchen. There is no glamour here. It is hot and sweaty and the hours are long and uncomfortable. I think many women are smart enough not to continue.
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Who cooks at home? Me, when I am home. But yesterday, for example, I was at work so my partner cooked fish tacos with Disa, my daughter.
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You have also written cookbooks. Are there any available in English? Yes, Served from the Swedish Kitchen, (ICA bokförlag, 2007) is full of typical Swedish recipes.
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Ibiza is the third largest of the Balearic Islands, found off the east coast of Spain. It’s roughly 50km by 20km, so you’re never more than a 30-minute drive from anywhere. You will however need your own set of wheels to discover the best of Ibiza.
Here you w
When we first moved here, we picked up the book, Secret Beaches of Ibiza, by Rob Smith. We’d worked our way through most of the book and had found numerous waterholes and small inlets which, granted, were beautiful, however there had always been several other wanderers seeking out peace and quiet.
On a hot May morning we set off on yet another quest to find a true secret Ibiza beach. We park our car in a clearing just near north San Mateo and begin to descend down a long and steep, dilapidated road with hairpin turns every 50m. Intruding pine trees and clumps of wild rosemary reach up from the dusty, rocky ground. The sun is blazing and I’m wishing I’d worn a top that left more forgiving tan lines. LATI UDE l FEBRUARY // MARCH 2013 T
by Georgina Porteous
Beyond the billboards and beats of San Antonio and Playa d’en Bossa, there’s an alternative side to this small Mediterranean gem. It’s an Ibiza that is laid-back yet sophisticated. It’s both bohemian and luxurious. It involves centuries-old fincas that have been converted into five-star hideaways. Here you will find restaurants with unassuming façades offering world-class cuisine. Quaint whitewashed villages dressed in layers of bright pink and purple bougainvillea house the studios of local artisans. Staggering cliffs plunge down to hidden, rocky coves and gemstone waters. The red, fertile countryside is filled with fig, pomegranate and citrus trees, left to grow wild, and rosemary and curry plants infuse the air.
th unassum ing façade s
Beyond the bright lights and beats of the nightclubs and package resorts exists an alternative Ibiza that moves to a much more sedate rhythm.
I
’m a horribly shy person. I don’t like crowds and heavy traffic makes me nervous. I really could think of nothing worse than being in the dark, pressed up against a hoard of sweaty, inebriated clubbers. Call me a bore but to me island living should be about wide-open spaces, cocktails at sunset, remote beaches and rarely having to wear closed shoes. So when an opportunity arose for my husband Jamie to further his musical career in Ibiza, moving here took some convincing.
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After 40 minutes, Jamie turns to me with a huge grin and with a sweep of the arm, he proudly presents our final destination. We emerge from the shrubs to meet one of the most glorious bays I’ve ever seen. Serrated rocks make way for a smooth pebbled shore. Weathered fisherman huts dot the acute arch of the bay. Emerald waters lay completely undisturbed. Finally, the Ibiza we had been searching for! The pristine cove of Es Portixol near north San Mateo on Ibiza’s north west coast is worth the 40 minute trek.
Cala Xarraca, off the road to Portinaxt in the north, is a local favourite and one of the island’s loveliest coves. It is however getting busier each season, so wander around the coast to the right and you’ll find the smaller and more peaceful Cala Xucla.
Emerald w aters lay c ompletely
undisturbed.
To enjoy the famous Ibiza sunset, avoid the brash strip of San Antonio and take a short drive further north to Cala Salada. This sandy, serene cove has no tourist developments and as the sun sinks into the horizon the setting is sublime. Cala Conta on the southern tip of Ibiza is another sunset favourite off the beaten track, it is however well-known. If you want a beach, with a wide sandy shoreline and the occasional wave, Cala Llenya on the east coast is a top choice.
For a swimming gem that is easier to get to, take the road to Portinatx at the northern peak of Ibiza and take the turn off to Cala Xarraca and the quieter Cala Xarcu, just around the corner. On the east coast, Cala Llenya is what I consider a real beach. It has a wide shoreline of golden sand, which slopes gently and gets the occasional wave.
Many people head to the Las Dalias hippie markets for shopping and souvenirs, but in the summer, the crowds here can be unbearable. Instead, search out the island’s many small luxury boutiques for handmade treasures with true Ibiza style.
Despite the past two decades of misleading press coverage, the Ibiza that attracted artists, nature lovers and peace seekers in the sixties still exists today, you just need to search a little harder to uncover her secrets.
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Nature Escape
PARADISE B Y
C A R O L I N E
C O W A N
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W H AT M A K E S M A D A G A S C A R S O U N I Q U E ? It could be that on this fourth largest island in the world there are plants and animals that can’t be found anywhere else, 90% of all plants and wildlife on Madagascar are endemic to the island. These include seven of the world’s nine species of Baobab tree, 40 different species of lemur, three quarters of the world’s orchids and the world’s smallest chameleon. If that isn’t enough, there are 220 small islands off the main island, spiny forests, rainforests and dry forests. But it’s the Malagasy culture and its people that make this place so special. An unusual blend of Indonesian, African and Arabian influences, the culture is peaceful and laid back. My memories of Madagascar remain some of the best and these are my most unforgettable moments.
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AROUND NOSY BE Don’t let the name of the main city, Hell-ville, put you off, Nosy Be is anything but. I prefer the other names given to this island paradise - “The Island of Perfumes” or “Fragrant Island.” Everywhere you go, from the postcard perfect coconut tree rimmed beaches to the top of the highest point, Mount Passot looking out over the bay, the air is infused with the heady Madagascan perfume of ylang ylang, vanilla and red pepper. Even at its busiest, Nosy Be can hardly be called crowded, and there are many small private coves to escape to for some private time alone with the island.
UNCOVERING UNDERWATER HOTSPOTS There are plenty of guides offering boat trips to Nosy Tankiley for some snorkelling and scuba, and while it is beautiful, I choose to explore further afield. So discovering the Radama Islands is a real treat. The Radama Islands is an archipelago of four islands in the North Western tip of Madagascar, South of Nosy Be. They may be a bit further out, and you could consider taking a couple of days cruise time to enjoy them, but once you see all the colours and weird and wonderful fish and corals, you’ll see why it’s worth the extra effort.
LOVING THE LEMURS The number one reason I travelled to Madagascar was to see the lemurs. These cute cuddly creatures with the bushy tails and wide bright eyes are endemic to the island. I didn’t realise there are so many different types of Lemur. It’s part of the fun to see how many you can find. Nosy Be is home to the Black Lemur, quite a scary looking creature that is oddly loveable. Then there are lemurs with stripy tails and ones that sing haunting melodies. Lokobe Reserve is a good place to start and Nosy Kombo just opposite Hell-ville has many species for you to spot.
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TSINGING THE TSINGY IN ANKARANA PARK Madagascar is full of ever-changing scenery that never stops fascinating, from rainforests to the dry, almost eerie forests of Tsingy, a Jurassic rock formation that resembles fields of spikes standing up from the ground. A tap on the rock produces the “tsing� sound after which it is named. I find it oddly calming, like a gong or chime.
HEAVENLY SCENTS IN ANKIFY Madagascar has to be one of the best smelling places on earth but arriving in Ankify is like heaven for the senses. This small harbour, just across the bay from Nosy Be is unspoilt and beautiful to look at, but it is the plantations of all the good stuff like cocao, coffee, ylang ylang and vanilla that make it so intoxicating.
ORCHID SPOTTING There are over 1000 species of orchid on the island of Madagascar. On my trip I developed a rather unusual dance of craning my head upwards to look for them in the trees and crouching down to spot them nestled between rocks. The pinnacle of romance is a day visit to Sakatia, or Orchid Island, just off the coast of Nosy Be.
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UNDER THE COVER OF DARKNESS IN ANJAJAVY Having seen a few lemurs by now you would think I would be bored with them, but discovering the nocturnal, ever so cute and tiny mouse lemur in the remote Anjajavy Private Nature Reserve is a special treat. The reserve is literally teeming with wildlife and a common sight is seeing the Coquerel’s Sifaka leaping between the high trees.
THE COMPLETE CASTAWAY EXPERIENCE Madagascar is the ultimate place to ditch the world and enjoy the feeling of being lost. And the Mitsio Archipelago is where I choose to do it. With a dozen idyllic islands to choose from, Tsarabanjina, the location for BBC’s Castaway, is my first pick. Even though I like the idea of being on my own island in the middle of nowhere, I still want some of the creature comforts of the island’s hotel.
TURTLE TRACKING ON NOSY IRANJA My personal favourite moment is watching a hawksbill turtle finish burying her eggs before slowly making her way down the beach to the water where with a swish she is gone. It is such a privilege to see these turtles close-up and Nosy Iranja is the perfect place to get such a chance. Go and visit the lighthouse, designed by Gustav Eiffel, on the bigger of the two islands.
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ANTSIRANANA - MADA’S NORTHERNMOST CITY Madagascar is a very big island so the wise thing to do is pick the area you want to explore. The North West is one of the best. Antsiranana, or Diego Suarez, is its gateway. Walking around this French influenced city, admiring the colonial buildings on Rue Colbert or Rue Richelieu, catching an old Peugeot or Renault taxi or just looking out over the harbour, I now understand why the legend of the utopian Libertalia Republic is said to have originated here.
HIGH-UP HUES OF AMBER A patch of green rising up out of the surrounding dry landscapes of the north, Amber Mountain is not to be missed. The mountain is covered in a rainforest filled with waterfalls and crater lakes, 7 species of lemur and the world’s smallest, and sweetest, chameleon, the Brookesia Minima. For me, spotting the shy Fossa, with the help of my ANGAP guide is the highlight. The fossa is a cat-like, carnivorous mammal that is endemic to Madagascar.
TAKING IT EASY IS A NATIONAL PASTIME From the moment of arrival and passing through customs, you can’t do anything but relax. The Malagasy concept of “moro moro”, or slowly slowly, is evident everywhere you go. There is no point in hurrying and learning to go with the Madagascar flow is one of the best things about this place.
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<< ANJAJAVY L’HOTEL Photograph Credit BIPA Fitiavana
www.anjajavy.com
With an exotic garden designed by famous Parisian landscape architect Camille Muller Anjajavy l’Hotel is an oasis in the midst of the wild. When you are not on the deck of your rosewood villa swinging your feet over the edge of your hammock or enjoying afternoon tea watching the lemurs, there are forests, secluded bays and tiny islands to explore.
<< EDEN LODGE www.edenlodge.net
Winner of the Best Small Hotel and Best Sustainable Hotel in Madagascar, Eden Lodge is all about luxury and comfort without the guilt. Running entirely on solar energy and décor by stylist Frédérique Glainereau, there is simply no better way to immerse yourself in this incredible nature.
<< TSARA KOMBA LUXURY ECOLODGE www.tsarakomba.com
Find yourself in one of 8 private lodges tucked away in the Eden Garden, a botanical garden boasting the best of Madagascar’s flora. It’s a short walk on to the beach where your sun lounger awaits. If you can drag yourself away there is a private nature reserve quite literally right on your doorstep.
From South Africa there are flights running daily from Johannesburg to Tana on SAA. www.flysaa.com Getting around Madagascar can be tricky. If you plan on visiting reserves and other sites outside of the cities it is best to hire a car with a local tour guide. Why not explore the many Madagascan islands with the sails of your charter yacht flapping in the winds?
It is best to take some form of anti-malaria medication especially if you are visiting the coast. Also remember to cover up in the evenings to prevent mosquito bites. Tap water can be unsafe to drink so always stick to bottled water. Although there has been some unrest starting with a political coup in 2009, Madagascar is a safe place to visit and there have been no incidences involving foreign visitors. However, always practice caution and don’t walk alone at night or carry large amounts of cash or valuables on your person. Remember to check your country’s consular advisory website before leaving. January to March is the height of the cyclone season and it is better to travel outside of these months.
www.admiralcharters.co.za
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FLOWER
by Malu Lambert
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HE WORLD IS CLOAKED IN THE SCENT OF VANILLA. Its sweet, smoky and creamy properties are in candles, body lotions and perfumes all over the globe. It’s the base of confectionaries, cakes,
cream and an ingredient of medicines and aphrodisiacs. It is in Madagascar, especially the fertile Sava region with its hot, humid climate and optimum temperatures, where you will find much of the world’s production of vanilla.
Madagascar Bourbon is a very popular variety of vanilla with a rich, creamy, sweet and mildly assertive flavour. There are over 150 types, though only two are used commercially; Bourbon and Tahitian. Vanilla pods are a product of tropical orchids. It’s a spice that has not only shaped civilisations, but has equally torn them down. Vanilla is truly the queen of the spice world. According to legend, vanilla owes its origins to love and murder. In ancient Mexico, there was a beautiful girl, Morning Star, who lived in The Land of the Resplendent Moon, the kingdom of Totonicapán. Deep in the dense tropical rainforest she was caught with her forbidden lover. As punishment their hearts were cut out and taken to the temple as an offering to a goddess. But the blood-soaked site of their murder yielded an unlikely gift: the vanilla orchid. So the fruit of the plant became known as ‘nectar of the gods’. Indigenous to the Americas, the Totonaca people of the Mexico’s Gulf Coast are said to be the first people to produce the spice agriculturally. Overthrown by the Aztecs, who claimed the spice as their own, vanilla was revered as a sacred plant they referred to as ‘tlilxochitl’, or, ‘black flower’. The ancient Aztecs used it to ward off evil spirits, as offerings to their gods, and to flavour their famous ‘chocolate water’, which was made from cocoa beans, ground corn, ground
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vanilla beans, and honey. Vanilla bean production is expensive as the farming is labour intensive: the orchids take three years to grow, and then each plant is hand-pollinated. The green beans or pods are then cured in the sun, and are ‘sweated’ in cloth at high temperatures to achieve the quixotic mix of sugars and aromatics. They are then dried for several weeks until finally the green seeds are transformed into the wrinkly brown pods we associate with vanilla. The taste of the spice is akin to a trip around the world. Close your eyes next time you tuck into a vanilla ice cream and imagine the stoic pyramids of the Aztecs, the wild beauty of Madagascar, the steam and heat of Indonesia and the frenzied markets of Turkey and China.
OUR TIP: Make your very own vanilla sugar. Simply cut a vanilla pod lengthways and run your knife along the inside to release the black seeds. Mix the seeds along with the husks and a cup of white sugar. Place all the ingredients into a sterile jar, shake, and leave to infuse. The sugar is delicious in coffee, sprinkled over grapefruit, with pancakes: the list is endless.
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Enjoy the â&#x20AC;&#x2DC;queen of the spice worldâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; in her natural habitat: vanilla bean ice cream. Simple, smooth and deliciously creamy. This is the real thing. INGREDIENTS 375ml cream 375ml milk 8 vanilla beans, split, seeds scraped 8 egg yolks 150g castor sugar METHOD Bring the cream, milk and vanilla seeds to the boil, then reduce the heat and leave the mixture to simmer. Whisk the egg yolks and sugar together in a large bowl then slowly add a third of the hot liquid, stir to combine. Return the mixture to the pot with the remaining liquid. Continue to simmer over medium heat, stir continuously, until it reaches a custard consistency and coats the back of a spoon. Strain through a fine sieve into a bowl and chill for at least three hours. Once the mixture is cold, churn it in an ice cream machine until voluptuous and dreamy. Serve with wafers or in a sugar cone.
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A T
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WHILE
AFRICA
HAS INSPIRED GLOBAL
FASHION FOR
DECADES, THE
EMERGENCE OF
AFRICAN DESIGNERS ON
THE INTERNATIONAL FASHION
SCENE IS GIVING AFRICAN DESIGN
ITS OWN PLACE ON THE CATWALK. BY ELA HOEVENAARS
IT’S TIME FOR AFRICA
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LATI UDE
Travel Fashionista OPPOSITE PAGE: Christian Louboutin shoes THIS PAGE: Moschino Cheap and Chic; Curo-Olowu Spring Collection 2013; Bcbg Max Mara; Fendi Daisy Bag
Photograph Credit: Luis Monteiro
Jean Paul Gaultier
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LATITravel UDEFashionista
IT’S TIME FOR AFRICA
E
ver since Algerian-born designer Yves Saint Laurent brought African inspired fashion to international runways in 1967, designers all over the world have been using influences from the continent.
Traditionally African inspired design was all about animal prints, but today it has evolved into something much more than that. Bold patterns on precious fabrics, beaded luxury accessories and outfit transforming tribal jewellery are now regular features on international catwalks. Recently the African inspiration has been hard to miss: Zulu beads in accessories from BCBG Max Azria jewellery to Christian Louboutin’s extravagant shoes, while West African ‘Ankara fabrics’ were spotted as the main influence for the Moschino Cheap and Chic spring/summer 2013 collection. But there is more to the African trend than just being an influence. It has found its place on the fashion map. There is now a whole new wave of African designers determined to prove that African fashion can stand alone. They have the talent and knowledge to use traditional techniques, patterns and textiles that before now have never been experienced on the global scene. Some have already gained international attention, like South African designer Gavin Rajah, a favourite of Beyoncé and Naomi Campbell, and Nigerian-born designer Duro Olowu. In 2005 Olowu was named New Designer of the Year at the British Fashion Awards and his designs are favoured by Michelle Obama and other celebrities.
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Nigerian designer Lisa Folawiyo, the talent behind the label Jewel by Lisa, has also showed her collection on international runways and she is the first to have embellished Ankara fabrics with sequins, Swarovski crystals and beads. Another emerging Nigerian designer grabbing global attention is Amaka Osakwe of Maki Oh. What could be more original than a designer who hand-dyes all her fabrics using a time-consuming technique called adire, which requires indigo leaves instead of industrial dye? And the list continues with designers offering their unique perspective of the African continent: Ghana-born Mimi Plange, Nigerian Buki Agbabiaka and her label Buki Akib, South African designer Jacques van der Watt, founder of Black Coffee, Sudaneseborn Omer Asim and many others. Duro Olowu has said that, “African culture has always been seen as being influential anthropologically, but never as a fashion presence in its own right.” But with Africa’s promising emerging markets and African designers conquering the global fashion scene, it’s no wonder tribal fashion is increasingly becoming more than just ‘traditional’ wear and being valued for its true potential. Keep an eye on African trends and emerging designers. Make a note in your calendar of the main fashion events happening on the continent this year.
MARCH 2013
Mercedes Benz Fashion Week Johannesburg, South Africa Fashion at Design Indaba Cape Town, South Africa Arise Magazine Fashion week Lagos, Nigeria
APRIL 2013
The Hub of Africa Fashion Week Addis Ababa, Ethiopia
AUGUST 2013
Dar Fashion Festival Dar es Salaam, Tanzania
NOVEMBER 2013 Swahili Fashion Week Dar es Salaam, Tanzania Nigerian Fashion Week Lagos, Nigeria
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A NEW COLOUR AMMONIA FREE
D
avines loves being green and so should you with our new ammonia free colour. A New Colour is 100% ammonia free, full of anti-oxidants and covers greys 100%.
A NEW COLOUR now available at Carlton Hair and selected Davines salon stockists. +27 11 791 3385
LATI UDE l FEBRUARY // MARCH 2013 T
“POWDER” by Angelo Seminara for Davines
colour from Davines now available
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&
BY FABRIZIO RINVERSI
AVANT-GARDE
SPORTY DESIGN
CELEBRATING ITS 110TH ANNIVERSARY LAST YEAR, ONE OF THE MOST INSTANTLY RECOGNISABLE ASPECTS OF THE FESTINA BRAND IS ITS STRONG COMMITMENT TO SPORT. THIS IS SEEN IN THE SPONSORSHIP OF SOME OF THE MOST IMPORTANT INTERNATIONAL CYCLING EVENTS –THE GIRO D’ITALIA, TOUR DE FRANCE AND VUELTA A ESPAÑA.
CHRONO BIKE: 2012 COLLECTION R 3000
R 5900
48.5mm in diameter in stainless steel with polyurethane strap. Many details mimic the world of cycling, such as the crowns of the gear box, and sets of pinions and wheels. The latter can be seen in the finish of the internal counters on the green dial.
48.5mm in diameter case, treated IP Super Black steel, also on the buttons and bezel, water resistant to 100m. Sapphire crystal, quartz movement and black polyurethane strap.
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CHRONO BIKE: BLACK LTD EDITION
GIRO SPORT: 2012 COLLECTION R 2150 (with bracelet) R 1910 (with strap) Quartz chronograph, in steel with bracelet or polyurethane strap, water resistant to 100m, 45.5mm in diameter, with aluminum bezel. The dial may be white, black, red or orange, while the graduated bezel is designed to highlight the first quarter.
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Travel Accessories
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istorically masculine with a classic, sporty soul, the brand has grown over time to include the development of more feminine product lines. Today it is one of the few brands in the market to offer a full range of products for both men and women. Festina watches have always been characterized by a strong and innovative component especially when it comes to the materials used in their designs; just see the fabulous ceramic and steel ladies’ collections. Excellence in quality at a price range that is appealing, Festina watches are moving ahead in the race. Looking more closely at each collection we see a strong focus on the female ranges. In the Ceramic
The Dream Collection stands out with a Soleil finished dial chromatically linked to the bezel - characterised by its crystal work- and to the strap. Manchette type models with inserts based on the gritty texture of the bracelet are what makes the Dame Collection unique. Festina’s men’s collections are more directly linked to cycling as seen with the Chrono Bike: 48.5mm in diameter with structural and aesthetic elements reminiscent of the crowns of a gear box and sets of pinions and wheels. The Giro 2012 has strong appeal in steel with an aluminum bezel.
DREAM COLLECTION
R 2150
R 1050
Stainless steel and black ceramic, 32 mm in diameter. On the dial, as well as at the small seconds at 6, notice the indexes of cubic zirconia, alternating with Roman numerals.
With stainless steel round case of 38mm or 41.5mm in diameter, water resistant to 50m, quartz movement, Soleil finished dial, with steel indexes and sword hands in the same colour as the original cut crystal bezel. The strap in fabric or in polyurethane.
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CERAMIC COLLECTION
Collection the combination of ceramic and steel creates a wonderful reflection while the use of cubic zirconia on the dial and bezel adds a touch of cool.
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TIPS
FOR SUN DAMAGED HAIR AFTER LONG SUMMER DAYS OF CONSTANTLY BEING IN THE SUN, CHANCES ARE YOUR HAIR NEEDS A RESCUE, AND FAST! BY CAROLINA VALLENILLA
E
xtreme exposure to UV rays can cause a lot of harm to your hair. Although taking precautions to prevent hair damage is best,
we often neglect to act until the damage has already been done. Fortunately there are steps you can take to relieve and improve the condition of sun damaged hair.
WE SHARE YOUR BIGGEST END OF SUMMER HAIR WOES AND THEIR FAST FIX SOLUTIONS.
FAST HAIR FIXES
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Travel Beauty
1.
3.
1. Kérastase Nutritive – Nutri-thermique Intense NOURISHING MASK that repairs dry and damaged hair. (200ml R750)
2. L’Oréal Unifibrine Absolut Repair Serum Treat damaged ends with this super light and SMOOTHING SERUM. (50ml R175)
2.
3. Redken - UV Rescue After-sun shampoo Restores moisture, removes chemicals, chlorine and salt to REPLENISH SUMMER HAIR. (300ml R880)
4.
4. Wella Pro Series – Shampoo repair Moisturises and repairs damaged hair from root to tip for a HEALTHY SHINE. (500ml R43)
5. 6.
5. Moroccanoil – Intense hydrating DEEP CONDITIONING MASK that revitalises dry, dull hair. (250ml R295)
6. Tresemmé - Split Remedy Intense recovery masque Restore your hair’s health with this INTENSE RECOVERY TREATMENT. (300ml R90)
WE ASKED JANUS SNYMAN, TECHNICAL EDUCATOR FOR WELLA, FOR HIS TIPS ON PREVENTING HAIR DAMAGE DURING SUMMER. HERE ARE HIS ANSWERS: IT IS ALWAYS BEST TO
WHEN POSSIBLE, USE A
WEAR A HAT! THIS
PREVENTION IS BETTER
RINSE YOUR HAIR AS
LEAVE-IN TREATMENT
PROVIDES THE BEST
THAN CURE. STOP DAMAGE AND DRYNESS
SOON AS POSSIBLE AFTER
OR CONDITIONER
PROTECTION AGAINST
SWIMMING. THIS HELPS TO
BEFORE SWIMMING. THIS
HARMFUL UV RAYS THAT
BEFORE IT HAPPENS. A
MINIMIZE THE AMOUNT OF
STOPS YOUR HAIR FROM
CAN HURT BOTH YOUR
GOOD HAIR CARE REGIME
SALT AND CHLORINE THAT
ABSORBING TOO MUCH
COLOUR AND YOUR HAIR’S
IS ALWAYS YOUR BEST
CAN CAUSE DRYNESS.
SALT OR CHLORINE.
PROTEIN.
FRIEND.
TAKE IT EASY WHEN
YOUR HEAT PROTECTION
TREAT, TREAT, TREAT
NEVER FORGET THAT THE
TOWEL DRYING YOUR
SPRAY ISN’T JUST FOR THE
USE A PROFESSIONAL
BEST WEAPON AGAINST
HAIR. TOWELLING TOO
FLAT IRON. IT CAN ALSO
MASK AT LEAST EVERY
SPLIT ENDS IS TO TRIM
ROUGHLY CAN CAUSE
PROTECT AGAINST THE
FOURTH TIME YOU
YOUR HAIR OFTEN -
DAMAGE AND EXCESSIVE
HEAT OF THE SUN.
SHAMPOO YOUR HAIR.
GENERALLY EVERY 8 TO 10 WEEKS.
TANGLING.
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LATIBookUDEReview
ave you ever wanted to jump on a boat and sail away from all your problems? Does the sound of running away to the Caribbean islands appeal to your inner sense of adventure? Monique Roffey’s novel about a father dealing with loss by getting lost out at sea is the perfect escape.
H
The book takes us on not one, but two, journeys. In the first we set sail with Gavin Weald, his daughter Océan and their dog Suzy, on a dream voyage across the Caribbean, from Port of Spain in Trinidad to the Dutch Caribbean Islands Aruba, Bonaire, Curaçao through the Suez Canal into the Pacific and onwards to the Galapagos Islands. It is a story about the sea as much as the islands they visit along the way. The other journey is far more personal. What starts as an escape from the things Gavin cannot deal with anymore becomes a discovery of who he has become and where he ultimately wants to be. It is a journey that heals wounds and brings this small, disjointed family back together again. Roffey manages to weave the beauty of the Caribbean in with sharp political commentary and poignant personal observations. Archipelago is an inspiring book that captures the magical essence of the Caribbean, its islands and its people, while delving into the workings of the human heart. BOOK REVIEW BY CAROLINE COWAN
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LATI UDE
Flying You To Great Places Everyday
AD
Luxurious private charter ďŹ&#x201A;eet Daily shuttle ďŹ&#x201A;ights to private game lodges Exclusive private departure lounge Bateleur Air Charter operated by Federal Air flies to the most beautiful and remote parts of Africa. Going on a luxury safari? Travelling to an idyllic beach paradise? We provide a seamless travel experience, unparalleled anywhere in the world.
For reservations and more information contact us any time on 011 395 9000 For charter quotes and bookings contact Gillian on gillian@bateleurcharter.co.za or Adrie on adri.prinsloo@fedair.com A/H hours: 083 611 2766 For shuttle bookings and information contact our reservations department on shuttle@fedair.com
LATI UDE l FEBRUARY // MARCH 2013 T
For all online bookings visit www.fedair.com
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GFA149
Whether you are travelling for business or pleasure Federal Air will get you there in absolute comfort and style. With Federal Air, every guest is special, every flight first class, and every journey memorable!
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LATINextUDEIssue
NEXT ISSUE HIGHLIGHTS
APRIL 2013 / MAY 2013
+ + + +
FOLLOW THE SOUNDS New Trend DESIGNER SLEEPS Rythmic Travelling AUTHENTIC ANGOLA Brazil BEATS, BEACHES AND BAIRROS
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Lisbon
T
LATI UDE Discover Forevermark diamonds in exceptional designs at Authorised Forevermark Jewellers across South Africa: Lorraine Efune, Jewel Africa, Peter Gilder, Uwe Koetter Jewellers, Ntinga Gold and Diamonds,
Less tha n o n e p e rce n t o f t h e wo r l d’s dia m on ds ca n ca rry th e Foreve rm a rk in s cription.
© FOREVERMARK LIMITED 2012. FOREVERMARK™ AND
Our promise that this diamond is as unique as the one for whom it is intended.
™ A R E U S E D U N D E R L I C E N C E F R O M T H E D E B E E R S G R O U P O F C O M PA N I E S .
F M - N OV- R
Shemer Jewellers, Orient Jewellers, Damjee Jewellers, Jewellery Design Company and Adara.
Forevermark is part of the De Beers group of companies. F O R E V E R M A R K .CO M
LATI UDE l FEBRUARY // MARCH 2013
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LATI UDE You are invited...
To End the Year in Style With the year drawing to a close, why not treat your clients or employees to a memorable year end &KULVWPDV OXQFK RU GLQQHU IXQFWLRQ RQ 6RXWK $IULFD¡V LFRQLF PRYLQJ Ă&#x20AC;YH VWDU KRWHO 7KH %OXH 7UDLQ"
WHERE: On board the most lavish train on the planet. WHEN: At your earliest convenience.* WHO: Tailored for corporates who value their clients and staff. Come and experience all of this opulence on a journey into a timeless world of grace and elegance where enduring memories are made.
7R H[FOXVLYHO\ ERRN \RXU FRPSDQ\ RQ WKLV PHPRUDEOH H[SHULHQFH SOHDVH FRQWDFW RXU FRUSRUDWH RIĂ&#x20AC;FH
Contact: Kaya Nyati or Julian Sibeko | Tel: +27 (0) 12 315 2471/2212 | Email: kaya.nyati@bluetrain.co.za or julian.sibeko@bluetrain.co.za | For more information, visit www.bluetrain.co.za
* Subject to availability LATI UDE l FEBRUARY // MARCH 2013 T
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