Launa Blagbrough W13016058 Process journal DE0906
Contents 4-5 6 7 8-9 10-12 13 14 15
LOOK 2 CONCEPT MARKET RESEARCH BASIC TOILE
ALTERING THE PATTERNS
DRAFTING THE SLEEVE
SEWING INSTRUCTIONS TOILE ONE
16-17
CURVING THE HEM
18-19
TOILE TWO
20-21
MODEL FITTING
22-23
SEWING THE COAT
24-29
POCKETS
30-33
THE LINING
34-35
FINAL GARMENT
36-37
THE TROUSERS
38-39
THE DRAFT
40-41
ADDING THE FLY
42
ADDING THE POCKETS
43 44-46
TROUSER DRAFT SEWING THE FLY
47-48
SEWING THE POCKETS
49
ADDING THE FACINGS
50-51
TOILE ONE
52-53
MODEL FITTING
54-55
EDITING THE BOX PLEAT
56-57
TOILE TWO
58-59
TROUSER LINING
60-63
FINAL GARMENT
Look two Cording at neck
Dropped shoulder on coat
V-neck on jumper
Pull cording
Silk organza hem
Under silk sheer top
fitted trouser with box pleat detail
Look two consists of four garments, a wool coat, a knitted rib jumper with cording detail, a sheer top and a pair of trousers. However, in my process journal I will go into depth over the process of twp specific garments that I believe to be of most difficulty, the coat and trousers. I will look at the whole process from intitial pattern cutting to toiles and finally to the final garment including samples, market research and step by step instructions.
Concept
In my project I have been looking at the Japanese samurai tribe. This entailed the use of plating, pull cord, kimono silhouettes and the idea of layering.
Market research Boiled wool
Dropped shoulder
Pull cording
Celine fall 2012 ready to wear Marni Spring 2017 Ready-towear
Basic toile
WM7 For my toile I decided to use toile WM7 boyfriend coat size 10. I thought this was a suitable toile to base my toile on.
Oversized proportions
Dropped shoulder
Shortened sleeve
Shorten sleeve Market research
Create a seam here
Altering the pattern create Curved seam
Take off 8cm off bottom to create the step
12cm
8cm 15cm
Extend outside piece 15cm longer than insidev piece = 78cm total length
pattern draft of coat 19c
m
Extended shoulder by 19cm to create a dropped should seam that now becomes the sleeve
This becomes a seam dividing into two front pieces
Step created here
pattern pieces for coat front
Back insertionmade into a seam
pattern pieces for coat back vent
Back
Drafting the sleeve sleeve draft 19cm
19cm to take out from original sleeve block as I have created a new dropped sleeve seam
11cm
sleeve panel to be 11cm wide
sleeve facing sleeve panel facing to be 6cm wide inclusive of seam allowance 6cm
sleeve panel
Sewing instructions 1 2
Place all fronts together inside and outer piece and press open. Making sure they are opposites when sewn. Sew side seams together and press open.
3
When sewing the vent, start by pressing the vent 1cm on the left side when placed together (leaving the other side open).
A B
4
Placing right sides together start sewing 1cm from the top down to marked position point A. From there sewing parallel to the vent across to the edge to point B.
5
Cut into the corner to ease open the vent and press open.
6
To secure vent down, flip vent to the right side (when looking at the wrong side of the fabric) and top stitch across to secure vent down.
7 8 9
Sew back insertion in, cutting into corners will make it easier to turn and sew. Sew shoulders together 1 cm and press. Pin sleeves into arm hole and sew 1cm and press.
Facings
toile #1 -added 2.5cm wide panels (two in the front two in the back) to add more volume -new curved hem, the hem is too straight compared to the spec drawing and illustration.
n pa
el sa dd ed
added 8cm into centre back to 0cm at centre front to create new curved hem.
Toile one
Curving the hem Added facings
curved hem
Neckline is too tight.
1.5cm
2cm
coat facings
Cut away at neckline to deepen and widen the neckline.
pattern pieces -alterations
1cm
Toile two Neckline is now appropiate. Fitting to my design.
Coat styling options
Curved hem meets required shape
centre front alteration
Excess fabric at neckline
Take out 3cm
Model fitting
Half unzipped 1 st
ok Lo
Kimono looking sleeve is consistent with my first look
Dr op pe ds ho uld
er
Pocket position
Sewing the coat
Fully fabricated
Fronts together
sophie is a cocksucker
Back vent
Back insertion
Sleeve seams
Shoulders together
Facings
Pocket toile one Decided to toile pocket in real fabric to see the result.
Patterns
pr ef a ll 1 6
Pocket draft
e n i l e C
Pocket ended up being too bulky with my choice of fabric, i’m glad I decided to toile in my actual fabric to see this result.
Pocket toile two Due to the bulk on my last toile pocket, I have decided to create flatter seams by top stitching the seams together, this is appropiate as the fabric is cut edge.
Instructions...
1 2
3 4 5 6 7
Press rounded section back, using notches as a guide. Edge stitch along this pressed edge.
Continue round the rounded edge matching notches together to the raw edge of pocket to notch. This will begin to create a 3D shape.
Press
Sew bottom of pocket across on the coat 0.2cm.
Fold over top edge using notches and press. Continue sewing from notch of pocket on the coat attaching the two together. Pinch inside of pocket side and sew together to partially close side edge together.
Edge stitch
Continue round
Sewing pocket flap
Overlock
Sewing the pocket flap...
8 9 10 11
Sew lining on 1cm to pocket flap (pulling tight so lining will fit) to the square side of flap. Trim down, turn through and press.
Overlock unfinished side. Insert inside into pocket and sew in, making sure i sew further up past the pocket so that pocket flap comes further up.
Pocket pattern
Pocket positioning
Pocket toile My pocket toile hasn’t included my strap across the pocket. I will include this on my actual pockets when sewing them on.
Pocket on coat
Ma rk e arc h ese tR
Overall, the pocket is now neater and is well suited to my design.
The lining
- Front
Instructions...
Front
Lining on pattern draft
The lining Instructions...
- Back
Back
Final garment
-The fitting
Altered pocket to not tuck into pocket bag and to be sewn further up to avoid bulk
Now top stitched
Updated spec drawing
The trousers Market research
Relaxed trouser
Hugo boss Ong Oaj Pairam Spring/Summer 2015 Ready-To-Wear show report
Dice Kayek Spring 2016 Couture Fashion Show
Japanese Hakama pants
Fly Box pleat
Turned up hem
Dart
Casual fit
Trousers
-The Draft
Basic toile WM1
Slashed open starting at 10cm up from knee.
Box pleat to be 6.5cm wide and therefore needs to open by 13cm
Cut off excess
13cm
Closing the box pleat
Box pleat diagram
5 2 . 3
cm
3.2
5c
6.5cm
m
Adding the fly Instructions...
Note: opposite side for womenswear
Fly patterns
Adding the pockets In seam pockets instructions...
Patterns
Trouser draft
Sewing the fly
-Example
Sewing the fly
-Instructions
1 2 3 4 5 6
Sew fly onto front (without notched out section) 1cm up one side (right sides together) and press. Sew zip in using zipper foot down on front (with notched out section) down to notch and sew horizontally across zip. Move zipper aside and attach crotch seam together. Use zipper foot and attach zip to fly.
Bag out fly facing and sew onto other zide of zip 1cm. When sewing fly facing sew 1cm down from raw edge (parallel to top of zip). Bag this out. Should be left with zipper facing line like this. S.A
Fly facing
Waist facing attaches to these
Zip
7
Top stitch 0.5cm facings to pocket bag (one small to one, one larger to another x2). -matching notches -turning in seam allowance 0.5cm
8
9 10
Lay smaller faced pocket to the front of trouser (right side to right side)
between notches create a sewn “box� 1cm Cut into corners of the box and turn through, edge stitch this.
Sewing the pockets
11
12
Add other pocket bag and bag out other pocket, french seam starting wrong sides together.
Place altogether front and back with pockets and sew down 1cm avoiding pocket opening then continue down leg.
13 14
Sew centre back down to crotch.
Sew inside leg all in one and bind all leg seams.
SAMPLE OF CALICO AND BINDING
Adding the facings 15
Add facing onto waist- sew altogether (side seams) then insert into waist
16
Sew one side onto zipper facing down 1cm then avoiding zipper facing (top) sew along the top of waist.
17 18
Other side attaches onto the fly 1cm.
Once all into waist, edge stitch 0.2cm facing to seam allowance.
Zip
Facing Fly Overlocking
Toile one
Fly facing is coming further up past trouser, place this 1.5 cm down to avoid this.
Gaping open here, possibly try a new technique to hold down in place.
LEFT
BACK
Pocket is suitable -looks clean and doesn’t distrupt design.
RIGHT
Model fitting
I am happy with the result of my first toile, however, I will now make necessary adjustments:- box pleat solution to avoid from gaping -sew fly facing further down
As previously mentioned, even on the model fitting it was gaping when worn functionally.
Moved down 1.5cm
-Solution
Editing the box pleat Pattern cutting - altering the pattern
Box pleat will now turn into a belt loop as well. This will control it from seperating apart.
Instructions 1 2 3 4 5 6
Left + right trouser leg - turn round to put right sides together to make pleat. Sew down to notch and press.
Turn through to correct side and press again. Press 0.5cm seam allowance from section cut down. Pin on extra panel so that its 0.5cm larger than seam allowance that was just pressed. Sew down 1cm (in crease of pressed seam allowance).
Toile two Slightly lifting at centre front. Need to see pattern.
Model fitting
Quite loose around waistline, to take out 0.5cm either side at waist
Too much pull here, make sure not to sew down box pleat too tight.
Trouser lining
Instructions...
Added the facings to top of trouser lining, added 2cm for seam allowance and cut down.
Lining patterns
he re
Final garment
p opening u
To add a hook and eye to keep stabalized and add button and button hole.
Fits snug around the body
Final garment
-The fitting
Overall, `I am happy with my result for the trousers, they serve their purpose and are fit for my design aesthetic.
Could be pressed slightly more to neaten.
Updated spec drawing