Unlike the minimal conceptualism of the 70s, 80s artists reacted with past colour, political and often in public. Michel Basquiat, a Neo-Expressionist painter had his break-through in the 1980s as he began to collaborate with Andy Warhol. He redefined selfexpression through graffiti style art. Similarly, Keith Haring was an American artist who responded to the culture seen within New York throughout the 1980s. His partnership with Grace Jones has provided one of fashions most memorable moments and has influenced Rodarte Spring Summer 2010 and Supreme T-shirts among many.
If postmodernism was bright and colourful it was also dark and dystopian. Cindy Sherman created a new kind of art for the 80s - questioning female representation through selfdocumentation. Her pioneering of the body as a canvas has influenced fashion from pop starts to conceptual artists. Postmodernism in fashion during the 80s was evident in Alexander McQueen, Vivienne Westwood and Comme des Garcon.
Public Art & Neo-Expressionism
It was a time of progression, power and the introduction of technology. ‘Motorola DynaTac’ 1983 was the first mobile phone. On January 24th 1984, Steve Jobs introduced the Macintosh 128K. This was the first mass-market personal computer. The word internet had almost been unused until the mid 80s.
Architecture also began to embody a futuristic aesthetic. The Lloyds Bank of London was built in 1978-86 and was designed by Richard Rodgers. Designed to allow the service pipes to surround and climb the building to maximise space in the interior. Often compared to the Pompidou Centre in Paris. If not futuristic, architecture was set to be different, individual and postmodern with architects like Michael Graves paving the way.
The 80s was the decade of greed, art movements and products were eccentric ‘if you’ve got it flaunt it gusto.’ This started a counter trend. The consumerism enveloping Japan began filtering into our fashion landscape with the likes of Rei Kawakubo and Issey Miyake preferring minimal pattern and strong lines.
Decade of Greed
Italian design group Memphis, founded by Ettore Sottsass are responsible for many of the iconic 80s furniture. The collective aimed to break the rules of traditional design, fitting perfectly in an era when pop culture was dominated by new romanticism and flamboyance. A manifestation of obscure postmodern theories influential in art and architecture. The Memphis print has influenced fashion designers Proenza Schouler and Peter Pilotto among many.
MEMPHIS
After the economic mess of the 70s including the three-day working week, fashion and art responded with playful statements for happier times. MTV first aired in 1981. The New Romantics and the explosion of the London club scene saw the formation of the Blitz Kids. The Blitz began making headlines thanks to its outrageous clothes and gender liquidation. Leigh Bowery and Grace Jones have become synonymous with
New Romantics
These technological advancements along with newly released sci-fi films Bladerunner (1982) and Robocop (1987) influenced fashion as bodies began to resembled machines and power. The birth of ‘posthuman.’ Thierry Mugler and Guy Bourdin are among many of the fashion creatives who implemented a dystopian fashion future.
Post Human
The 80s was a generation focused on change and unconventional design. Prevailing the conservatism of the previous decade with expressionism, colour and thoughts of a technological future. Politically, socially and creatively, outputs were set to test existing ideas and concepts with radical design and rebellion.
Radical Rebellion
Laura Oliver 1980s Art Movements, Product Design & Architecture
In the late 90s, Prada and Jil Sander editorials and collections included thin materials and nudity both beautiful and fragile. Morbid poses and taboo topics are still a common theme in today’s fashion magazines - Dazed & Confused, FUCKINGYOUNG and i-D all document the ups and downs of youth culture.
Heroin Chic
Whilst the grunge trend swept across the western world, the 90s also saw a return to the minimal fashion of the 50s and 70s as a reaction to the maximalist elaborate fashion trends of the 80s. Back too basic free from excess. Ann Demeulemeester, the queen of 90s chicgrunge blended the two trends grunge and minimalism season after season.
Stella Tennant, face of Chanel in the late 90s and favourite of Margeila encapsulates the fashion trends of the decade: minimalism, power and grunge. Some of Margeila’s most iconic trademark pieces were created in the 90s and defined the fashion aesthetic we have today. His take on early 90s grunge has formed as an inspiration for A/W 2013 Alexander Wang and Thakoon among many. His longing for ostentation antithesis saw the birth of and anonymity in fashion with his Spring Summer 96 collection. He is now a household name, known for obscurity, the pioneer of identity masking which is manipulated and reinvented by designer after designer season after season.
Fashion in 2014, albeit reworked and updated is a 90s rip-off. Crop tops arrived three seasons ago and the lagers are stilling wearing them. Calvin Klein, Narciso Rodriguez and Rag & Bone can all ways be relied upon to reimage Kate Moss’ heroin chic and 90s minimalism / chic- grunge has unearthed in Theyskens’ Theory and Carven Spring Summer 2014. Ashish is the new grunge. Acne the new Helmut Lang.
90s Revival
Fashion in the 1990s saw the adoption of grunge and anti-conformist casual wear - t-shirts, jeans and trainers, tattoos and body piercings. Grunge was born out of punk kids (like Kurt Cobain) and rebellious youth who wanted to make a fashion statement against mainstream society. Alexander McQueen’s 1996 ‘Bumster’ spawned the trend in perilously low-rise, crevicerevealing jeans. The iconic Vogue 1992 Steven Meisel editorial ‘Grunge and Glory’ set the tone for the decade of unkempt style.
Ostentation Antithesis
By way of designers like Prada, Jil Sander and Helmut Lang new silhouettes were introduced back into people’s wardrobes. With his chic white dresses and sleek trouser suits, Helmut Lang’s meticulous designs defined 1990s minimalism. A well-tailored pair of black trousers, a tailored Crombiestyle coat and countless white shirts reinvented power dressing and working uniform for a laid back generation.
90s Minimalism
The 90s was the decade for the super model as ‘The Originals’ Naomi Campbell, Claudia Schiffer and Linda Evangelista dominated the runway. The original super six shared the iconic Vogue 1990 cover. What Christy Turlington was to fashion at the time, Bill Clinton was to the economy. Models and designers in the 90s began to blend in with celebrity culture, having personalities and reputations of their own. Naomi Campbell paved the way for more ethnicity in fashion and dominated the runway in the 90s. She was also the first black model to have a Vogue Italia cover. With the help of brand like Calvin Klein and Fendi designer fashion became more accessible to a wider audience.
The Decade of the Supermodel
The popularity of grunge in fashion runways and editorial soon appeared in the mainstream. Kate Moss and Nikki Uberti were just two of the models synonymous with 90s Grunge. Kate Moss still today one of the greatest supermodels, launched her career in the 90s sparking controversy for her waif-like figure, standing out from the tall curvaceous models who came before her as she pioneered ‘heroin chic.’
Introduction to Grunge
Laura Oliver 1990s Fashion Designers & Models