SS15

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spring summer 2015 trend forecast

alice woods

laura oliver

isabel nascimento

2

SS2015

nottingham trent university fashion communication and promotion year 2 fash20032

2014

3 SPRING SUMMER 2015

contents

creative direction

menswear

graphics & print

visual merchandising

morbid 404 error AMERICAN BEAUTY

ratio xxxy quiet anarchy

ENZYME decrypt halcyon

lyf quicksand live-action

4 SPRING SUMMER 2015

CREATIVE DIRECTION

young blood 05

404-error 07

american beauty 09

5 SS15 CREATIVE DIRECTION

YOUNG BLOOD

6 SS15 CREATIVE DIRECTION

YOUNG BLOOD A growing trend for post-mortem, dying young and blood. A not-so-innocent youth and open society push one-time taboos into fashion narrative. Macabre images form a morbid documentation of unsettling and painful parts of life.

In Xavier Le Roy’s 1998 art production ‘Self Unfinished’ scientific and social data are transferred and imprinted in hallucinogenic morphological aberrations of the body. As the dancer performers the routine she turns robotic and disconnected. Alberto Polo uses religion, death and dying as a main narrative in his films and photography. His voyeuristic imagery of beauty in disturbing scenarios emanates a dark, eerie mood.

7 SS15 CREATIVE DIRECTION

404error

8 SS15 CREATIVE DIRECTION

404-error The eruption of the digital into the physical acts as a catalyst for robotized styling and digital post-production.

Fashion imagery focuses on the human body’s integration with technology, enabled by 3D bioprinting and a growing wearable tech market, depicting the imminent, improved, 2.0 version of ourselves. Moving away from a glitched VCR nostalgia, creatives airbrush a dystopian future.

Novembre and DIS Magazine pioneer a post-internet visual approach. Both online and offline, their disturbingly innovative narratives spearhead new fashions and names. Italian sculptor Gianluca Traina comments on a potential depersonalization through her distorted 360 portraits, caused by the ever blurring line between humanity and robotization.

9 SS15 CREATIVE DIRECTION

american beauty

10 SS15 CREATIVE DIRECTION

AMERICAN BEAUTY A growing social attitude stemming from economic and political fragility and a sense of vulnerability are translated into creative direction through the use of sheer, synthetic materials, with the notion of exposure in mind. Minimalistic styling, stemming from poor economic situations, has evolved to using translucent materials; a nod to stripped away luxury.

A voyeuristic approach is used by Ukrainian photography collective Synchrodogs in their ‘Demophobia’ series, in which sheets of plastic are draped around naked bodies. London based men’s fashion brand Cottweiler use sheer polyester in tracksuits to convey economic hardships, whilst artist Do Ho Suh creates Architectural Installations and Polyester Sculptures, in which the structure of buildings are exposed.

11 FURTHER READING -interactive-

Animalism, Naturalism Synchodogs, 2013

Upcomings Michal Pudelka, 2013

Oxigen Alberto Polo, 2013

Self Unfinished Xavier Le Roy, 1998

Bathwater Stephen Medeiros, 2012

Large Self Portrait Clemens Krauss, 2004-2009

One Minute Scultpures Erwin Wurm, 2012

Flamboya Vivianne Sasson

Upcomings Michal Pudelka, 2013

Prada Campaign Norbert Schoerne 1998

A Woman’s Work Is Never Done Eliza Bennett, 2011

Hester Asger Carlsen, 2013

All Maurizio Cattelan, 2007

Primitive London, TANK Bruna Kazinoti, 2013

Molting legwear from the Graduation Book of the Design Academy Eindhoven Vincent van Gurp, 2010

Prada Lookbook SS09 Miuccia Prada and Rem Koolhaas, 2009

Kurt, Novembre Magazine Amanda Camenisch, 2013

Hector Magazine Anuschka Blommers and Niels Schumm, 2012

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Glenn Martens AW14 Arnaud Lajeunie, 2013

Portrait 360 Gianluca Traina, 2013

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Remember to recalibrate your screen before you die, DIS Magazine Dora Budor, 2014

Smart Fingertips The University of Illinois, 2012

C.E Spring Summer 2014 Ben Drury and Rollo Jackson for Showstudio, 2014

1984 Ed Ruscha, 1960

Project Tango Google ATAP, 2014

iPad People Katsuki Nogami, 2014

Digital Modern Lighting for the Future SS01 Junya Watanabe, 2000

Animalism, Naturalism Synchrodogs, 2013

Smart Fingertips The University of Illinois, 2012

Ohne Titel Michael Budny, 2013

Make You Maker Lucy McRae, 2012

Artyom Shabalov DorothĂŠe Murai, 2013

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The Africa Issue Under the Influence Magazine, 2012

Stylorectic 2011

Perfect Home Instillation View Do Ho Suh, 2013

Stella Tenant for FW98 Maison Martin Margiela by Mark Borthwick, 1998

Untitled Tatiana Leshkina, 2013

Future Shock, the FACE Magazine Marcus Tomlinson, 1994

Tatiana Leshkina & Erik Hart Tissue Magazine, 2013

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menswear

RATIO 14

xxxy 16

quiet anarchy 18

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ratio

15 SS15 MENSWEAR

ratio Contrast panels enliven formal and casual looks. Clashing patterns and colour blocking resemble a collage aesthetic, with a 2D, geometric cut-and-paste feel. The panels accentuate flat designs, providing sufficient unobtrusive detail.

Within the rising “normcore” trend, the dismissal of prominence through clothing and the celebration of sameness.

Raf Simons mastered the technique with his crisp and graphic 2007 Spring/Summer collection. His use of bold colourblocking became timeless, culminating in his 2014’s Autumn Winter designs. Simon’s influence is seen in Alexandra Poppy McGrady’s BA collection, in which contrasting paneling is paired with above mentioned normcore, late-90s styling.

16 SS15 menswear

17 SS15 menswear

XXXY

Traditional identities such as class, vocation and race are becoming increasingly fragmented as menswear embodies the emancipation of men. Unisex clothing is designed to suppress the conventions of masculine and feminine dress, privileging an androgynous body. Now, the transgression of gender has moved past the point of androgyny, transforming structures of oppression that exploit diversity within society.

For some men an egalitarian future has already arrived. Photographer Daniel Jackson captured performance artist Calder Kusmierski alongside the apparent taboo surrounding men in skirts in his 2012 i-D editorial. Chinese photographer and poet Ren Hang photographs his subjects naked, playing on real existence, banality and gender.

The radical artist pushes the boundaries of the conditioned society we live in.

18 SS15 menswear

QUIET ANARCHY

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Quiet anarchy Internet surveillance and censorship, as well as growing fury over government secrets, raise suspicion and distrust throughout society, particularly throughout the tech-conscious youth. The strive for truth and democracy is decoded into men’s fashion direction through the use of intelligent, activist slogans and sporadically placed graphics. A quiet anarchy.

Leading street wear brands such as KTZ and Cyber Boy place political statements and arresting symbols in unsuspecting places, down sleeves and hems, on the lower back etc., eventuating into a strong declaration. Bullett Magazine’s ‘How High’ editorial focuses on this particular graphic placement trend, whilst carrying out a clear statement.

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Ready to Wear Collection SS14 Alexander Wang, 2013

Armory Brion Nuda Rosch, 2011

Folding Portait Mel Nguyen, 2011

BA collection Alexandra Poppy McGrady, 2013

AW07 Raf Simons, 2007

The Narrative Joe Earley, 2013

Screen Lovers Eli Craven

Untitled Brion Nuda Rosch, 2010

AW12 Dries Van Noten, 2012

SS14, Basso and Brooke, 2013

Il Panorama Fin Verso Oltremare Giovanni Anselmo, 1996

Affordances #1 Jonathan Zawada, 2013

I Want You David Raymond Conroy, 2009

Virtual Horizon Mowgli Omari, 2013

Untitled Eugene Lonesco

Arena Homme Plus S/S 2011 Collier Schorr

Novembre Magazine Digital Jorge Perez Ortiz, 2014

Candy Magazine Karim Sadli, 2010

Untitled Wolfgang Tillmans

Untitled Ren Hang, 2012

Johanna Stickland John Galliano, 2007

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Carlijn Jacobs Fucking Young, 2014

Calder Kusmierski, i-D Daniel Jackson, 2012

Madonna Mykki Blanco, 2013

Fabric Scans Nicomede Talavera, 2013

Boy George 1980

The Burger Girl Benjamin Dukhan, 2013

Vaslav Nijinsky

Bean Pole Print Christophe Lemaire Novo, 2013

How High, Fucking Young Adriano B, 2014

Beauty Is a Short Lived Tranny Eric Yahnker, 2011

21st Century Slogans Douglas Coupland and Michael Stipe, 2012

Anti-Mass Surveillance Protest

Nathan Cowen, Space Shirt Urban Outfitters

Wikileaks T-Shirt 2012

Spring Summer Xander Zhou, 2014

Malcolm McLaren Joe Steven, 1976

VSVP VISON 2013

Berlin East Side Gallery 2014 [own photography]

Islamic Youth Tara Vat Talepasand, 2009

Adam Abraham Raf Simons, 2014

Memphis Sanitation Workers Strike 1968

22 SPRING SUMMER 2015

GRAPHICS & PRINT

enzyme 23

DECRYPT 25

HALCYON 27

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enzyme

24 SS15 graphic & PRINT

enzyme A testament to the field of science, in which new research has shed light on DNA, the human form and bacteria cells. We now know, in more detail, about the make up of cells, and have achieved greater understanding of not just ourselves, but also our surroundings and the world we live in. Graphic design direction takes note of this, and uses shapes reminiscent of microbes and magnified bacteria cells in repetitive patterns and often bold colours, to create a sense of celebration of biological research.

This graphic design direction takes reference from the 1980s, particularly the Memphis Group or Milano Movement, in which similar colours and patterns are used to create flamboyant pieces of work, whilst still holding true to their postmodernistic ideals. Italian architect and designer Ettore Sottsass, pushed this style within his work in the Memphis Group, whilst illustrator Tim Colmant incorporates ideas of science and DNA make-up in his prints and designs.

25 SS15 graphic & PRINT

decrypt

26 SS15 graphic & PRINT

decrypt The urban environment and encoded messages inspire graphic and print direction. High tech applications such as surveillance systems and mapping influence this trend resulting in photocopied textures, linear structures and numerical codes. Scrambled type and a lo-fi fashion injection create gritty design and attitude.

Landscape architect James Corner is a forerunner of the urbanism movement. His 1996 book ‘Taking Measures Across the American Landscape’ features map illustrations that form a background to this trend. Decrypt graphics are also evident in modern digital landscape. Phonebloks created by Dave Hakkon is an in-development project that will allow users to build their own modular phone through a series of components and codes.

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halcyon

28 SS15 graphic & PRINT

halcyon Reduced shapes make the ultimate graphic statement. Our overwhelmingly complex reality provokes a reduction back to the fundamental. Flawless, stark designs emerge as loud silence within a noisy visual landscape. White on white, black on black, minimal precision invades graphic design and challenges the viewer to stop and stare.

This trends fed from Kasimir Malevich’s Suprematism movement, which brought abstract art to the most radical geometric simplicity ever seen and established the supremacy of the form. The artist’s Black Square originated a new pictorial language, leading artists such as Joseph Albers and Cal Dean to explore the zero of form.

29 FURTHER READING

Memphis Milano x Harlem Shake Style Pablo Abad, 2013

Graphic Collection n.d.

Studio Toogood The Hatch, 2009

Julien Rademaker’s Apartment Freundevonfreunden, 2014

Untitled Viktor Hachmang, n.d.

Filigrees n.d.

Studio Toogood The Hatch, 2009

Pentabase Bookrest Bacterio Table of Contents, 2014

Memphis Pattern n.d.

Carlton Bookcase Ettore Sottsass, Memphis Group, 1981

Brown Paper Bag Tim Colman, n.d.

‘Super’ Rolling Floor Lamp Martine Bedin, 1981

N Maria Albornoz, 2013

Nathalie du Pasquier x American Apparel, 2013

Untitled Agnes Martin

Taking Measures Across the American Landscape James Corner, 1995

Swiss Typographic Monthly Magazine Cover Heinrich Fleischhacker, 1975

Black Tattoo Sleeve Zak Henry, 2011

NSA Proof Font VICE, 2013

Truth and Distortion Andre Kerstesz, 1937

Pocket Sketchbook Juan Casini, 2009

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Ficciones Typografika Marton Kabai, 2013

Say Hello to Never Marc Magtzaam, 1998

Phonebloks Dave Hakkens, 2013

Machines Andy Callahan, n.d

Acid Poster. Forbidden.

Rasmus Ostgard Ohlson, n.d

Signature Type Nacor Martina, 2013

Autechre: Incunabula The Design Republic, 1993

Untitled Francis Baudevin, , 2012

Open Unfolded Space Ron Gilad, n.d.

Plus and Minus Peter Saville, 2002

Fence Parker Bright, 2013

Fanzine du Club des Chevreuils, Le Club des Chevreuils, 2005

Petrol, SS14 Lookbook Josh Reim, 2014

Hommage to Square Joseph Albers, 1957

How High, Bullet Magazine Andy Long Hoang, 2014

Shape 171 Cal Dean, n.d

Black Square Kasimir Malevich, 1913

Everyone Ever in the World The Luxury of Protest, 2012

A Dress from the Staircase Series Issey Miyake, 1987

Serpentine Gallery Pavillion Sou Fujimoto, 2013

Incomplete Open Cube No.5-6 Sol LeWitt, 1974

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visual merchandising

LYF 32

quicksand 34

live action 36

lyf

32 SS15 VISUAL MERCHANDISING

33 SS15 VISUAL MERCHANDISING

LYF The growing need to find pockets of paradise and pauses in daily life. Driven by socio-political topics such as the recession, a need to change the regular into utopia. Artists and designers elevate ordinary objects and routines, transforming the mundane into creative artwork and spaces. Our perception of escapism is revaluated as we seek comfort in the familiarity of the everyday.

Set designer Gemma Tickle’s fascination for everyday objects and materials, allows for playful concepts by altering the scale and environment. Marleen Sleeuwits and Nick Albertson look at banal, mass produced items and reimagine their common qualities.

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QUICKSAND

35 SS15 VISUAL MERCHANDISING

quicksand A contrast between two extremes; the rough and the soft. Coarse textures from sand, stone and distressed foil textures create a certain sense of intrigue, derived from our instinct to touch and experience new textures. The jagged surfaces reflect upon the rough exterior of society, a stark contrast to the luxe fabrics often associated with times prosperity. A graduation from Scandi-chic and natural materials used currently within fixtures and visual merchandising, these textures are painted in soft pastels, in an attempt to conceal the ragged texture, a painted exterior to mask the true identity.

Used in visual merchandising, coarse textures act as an invitation to consumers to experience and engage with the retail space.

36 SS15 VISUAL MERCHANDISING

live

37 SS15 VISUAL MERCHANDISING

live action The predicted demise of bricks and mortar is countered by live action. While e-commerce is expanding, physical stores hasten their game by promoting physical interaction with the consumer, expanding the normal shopping experience through on-the-spot services such as grooming, tattooing and live music. Live action flees from augmented, online realities to engage the viewer in unique, real ones. Brands’ ethos come to life through its consumers’ participation.

Fashion designer Gareth Pugh is set to create an installation space in Selfridges, London, in which customers are immersed in a virtual reality, enhancing their shopping experience as well as projecting Pugh’s vision in a more conceptual form. Uniqlo worked with creative agency BD Network to create their “Feel the Warmth” campaign, to support Centrepoint Sleepoint in which consumers can nominate, in store, whomever to receive a free piece of their HEATTECH clothing. This creates a sense of involvement and community, making the consumer be part of the action.

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NRC DELUXE ZEN GARDEN Scheltens & Abbenes, 2013

French Postcard Brea Souders, 2011

Rubbish Jewellery Hollie Paxton, 2013

Paper Clips Nick Albertson, 2012

Interior no. 26 Marleen Sleeuwits, 2011

Fluorscent Meets Pastel Floor Knaapen, 2013

Dropping Bottle Iran Do Espirito Santo, 2013

POP Balloon Sculptures Gemma Tickle, 2013

Still Lifes Lucas Lefler, n.d

Life -no.19 Tatsuo Miyajima 2013

360 Portrait Gianluca TrainaI, 2013

Harm Less Sonia Rentsch, 2013

Gold Burger Thomas Hannich, 2013

Objects and Illustration Javier PĂŠrez 2013

Ceramic Paint, Kirstie Van Noort, 2011

Foamglass Roos Gomperts, 2013

Foamglass Roos Gomperts, 2013

Concrete Genesis Ivanka Studios, 2012

Vectory Studio Ahha, 2011

Foamglass Roos Gomperts, 2013

Foamglass Roos Gomperts, 2013

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House of Dust Antonio Cardilllo, 2013

Salon 49 Kueng Caputo, 2013

Critical Objects, Object III HelloMe, 2014

GRAPEVINE~ Roan Nagle for David Kordansky, 2013

Untitled Bonnie Mably, n.d.

Arranged Still Life Andreu Serra, n.d.

Sometimes, Always Maxime Guyon, 2013

Scented Cinema Gorilla Perfumes by Lush, 2013 [own photography]

Gareth Pugh’s virtual reality journey Selfridges, 2014

Bread and Butter Berlin, 2014 [own photography]

Brit Rhythm Launch with White Lies Burberry, 2013

Brit Rhythm Launch with White Lies Burberry, 2013

No Noise Window Installation Katie Paterson, Selfridges, 2013

Measuring the Universe Roman Ondak, 2009

Tattoo shop at Abandon Bright Tradeshow, Berlin, 2014 [own photography]

Beady Eye Live Rough Trade East, 2013

Bread and Butter Berlin, 2014 [own photography]

Festival of Imagination Window Selfridges, 2014

Heattech Clothing Launch Uniqlo, 2012

White Trash Fast Food Berlin, 2014 [own photography]

The Artist is Present Marina Abramovic, 2012

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spring summer 2015 trend forecast

It is the past, present and future which enables us to make informed predictions. Looking to patterns and shifts in social attitudes on a wider scale allows us to think of the bigger picture, placing trends into context and make connections between different verticals. I-C is a visual-based trend forecasting service, using a selection of well thought out images to convey our message clearly and concisely.

alice woods

laura oliver

isabel nascimento

isabel nascimento

alice woods

laura oliver

41