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Fresh ideas for
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New way to prep veg & cut carbs!
W EV E
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Seasonal suppers with peas, beans & asparagus l Meat-free showstoppers l One-pot chicken with chorizo & new potatoes l
MEAT v VEG?
Easy family meals for everyone
HAVE A BRILLIANT BANK HOLIDAY
3-course menu under £5 a head l Picnic treats & cake-tin bakes l
Simple ways to a greener kitchen
Jamie
My favourite foodie places & people
Garlicky lamb & Sicilian greens Not your average greens…
Unleash your inner chef Korean fried chicken Lighter fish curry Japanese gyoza dumplings
l Creamy beetroot houmous l Watercress soup with bacon dumplingsl Coronation drumsticks l Classic lasagne l Queen of Hearts cake l Braised & pulled beef tacos l Raspberry & coconut scones l
th parsley, butter & samphirel Cheese & Marmite scones l Smoked salmon & poppy seed palmiers l Sticky citrus chicken
New potatoes with cheddar cheese sauce l Tipsy rhubarb & blood orange jelly l Roasted squash, tomato & spinach lasagne l Ice cream cupcakes l Beer-battered fish l Smoky tofu tortillas l Lentil kofta with orzo & feta l Profiteroles with cheat’s custard
Spiralizers on test
l Pimm’s jelly jars l Sping onion quesadillas with guacamole salad l
l Free-form asparagus & potato tart l Korean fried chicken burgers l Turkey Bolognese pasta bake l Pepper, pesto & sweetcorn calzones l Taleggio tart with walnut pastry
Welcome May 2015
There’s a distinct colour theme to this month’s issue – gorgeous, glorious green, in all its guises. From vibrant veg in markets and shops to slender shoots in your window boxes, pots and plots, it’s in abundance now – so enjoy! British asparagus is so versatile – try our new silky soup and superfood salad recipes, or mix it up with beans, peas and (surprise, this is the Sicilian bit) sultanas, as we’ve done in our cover recipe (p24). We’re also serving up elegant, modern vegetarian dishes (p74) and suggesting what to cook when some of your family eat meat, but others don’t – we’ve got plenty of solutions (p62). Finally, how green is your kitchen? For ways to cut down on water, waste less food and be more eco-aware, our practical ideas really will make a difference (p46). A month of fabulous food starts here…
We test the spiralizer – the new must-have gadget for preparing veg this summer. Turn to page 44
Spring fresh – Poached salmon & asparagus with wild garlic mayonnaise, p20
Gillian Carter, Editor
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Give your kitchen a green makeover, p46
Step-by-step: Learn to make Japanese gyoza dumplings, p134
£20
JOHN LEWIS GIFT CARD WHEN YOU SUBSCRIBE
If you take out a subscription to BBC Good Food this month, you’ll receive a £20 John Lewis gift card. Turn to page 110 for full details of this fantastic offer.
May 2015
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Editor Gillian Carter Deputy editor Elaine Stocks Creative director Elizabeth Galbraith Art director Jonathan Whitelocke PA to Gillian Carter and Alfe Lewis Emma Bales Senior food editor Barney Desmazery Food editor Cassie Best Acting Commissioning food editor Helen Barker-Benfeld Assistant food editor Miriam Nice Cookery assistant Chelsie Collins Art editor Rachel Bayly Designer Suzette Scoble Picture editor Gabby Harrington Chief sub-editor Art Young Senior sub-editor Fiona Forman Staff writer Holly Brooke-Smith TV editor Kathryn Custance TV recipes Petra Jackson Speciality food consultant Henrietta Green Nutritional therapist Kerry Torrens Reader taste team CJ Jackson Wine editor Sarah Jane Evans MW Thanks to Sara Buenfeld, Tania Cagnoni, Katy Gilhooly, Francesca Hobbs, Emily Kydd, Gary Lockerby, Dom Martin, Tracy Muller-King, Imogen Rose, Sara-Beth Rowland, Todd Slaughter, Rebecca Studd Publishing director Alfe Lewis Publisher Lorna East Senior marketing and events executive Chris Pearce Reader offer manager Liza Evans liza.evans@ immediate.co.uk Subscriptions director Jess Burney Senior direct marketing manager Emma Shooter Subscriptions marketing manager Lynn Swarbrick Digital marketing manager Phil Byles Advertising director Jason Elson Group head Display Catherine Nicolson Senior Display sales executive Rosie Bee Display sales executive Abigail Snelling Classifed sales executive Lloyd Meeks
Your new favourite recipes
Head of Print & Partnerships Nicola Shubrook Senior Partnerships executive Emma Newman Partnerships coordinator Lisa Folkson Head of production Koli Pickersgill Production manager Kate Gristwood Head of advertising services Sharon Thompson Senior ad services coordinator Sarah Barker Head of newstrade marketing Martin Hoskins Newstrade marketing manager Alison Roberts Finance Len Bright Press offce Toby Hicks Director of International Licensing & Syndication Tim Hudson Licensing & Syndication international@immediate.co.uk Chairman Stephen Alexander Deputy chairman Peter Phippen CEO Tom Bureau bbcgoodfood.com Editor Hannah Williams Health editor Roxanne Fisher Senior writer Lily Barclay Writer Natalie Hardwick Digital assistant Sarah Lienard Brand executive Natasha Gandotra Group head Digital sales James Florence Magazine editorial advisers Tam Fry Spokesman, National Obesity Forum Aisling O’Connor Commissioning Executive Daytime (BBC Television) Alison Kirkham Head of Commissioning, factual features & formats, BBC One and BBC Two Clare McGinn Head of Network Radio & Music Production, Bristol BBC Worldwide, UK Publishing Director of publishing Nicholas Brett Head of publishing Chris Kerwin Executive consultant editor Orlando Murrin Publishing coordinator Eva Abramik uk.publishing@ bbc.com
This month’s Taste Team Each month, BBC Good Food readers are the first to cook some of our brand-new recipes before they appear in the magazine. We send them the recipes and pay for the ingredients; they test the dishes at home and give us their verdicts. Read their comments on our recipe pages. Julia Tufnail, from Northamptonshire, often cooks with ingredients from her own garden. Her mum gave her a cookbook when she left home and she still uses her granny’s rolling pin. Luke Hayward, from Somerset, recently turned vegetarian. Homemade bruschetta, using sourdough from his local farmers’ market, always puts a smile on his face. Mo Tulloch, from Kent, is a Nigella Lawson fan. She loves using pulses like chickpeas and kidney beans to make meals more nutritious while adding depth and favour. Sophie Ritchie, from Manchester, loves eggs and says she’s a huge fan of the ‘brinner’ (breakfast for dinner) trend. Her co-workers have come to expect baked goods regularly!
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Spring chicken!
Regional agency sales Nicola Rearden Inserts Harry Rowland Advertising enquiries 020 7150 5044
34
One-pot chicken with chorizo & new potatoes
Contents May 2015 On our cover this month
In season 18
Star of the month The season for Britishgrown asparagus is so short – make the most of it now with these new recipes 27 Let’s eat more… tofu 32 Spring chicken! Fresh ideas for your favourite 37 Seasonal & local Veg box challenge, dates for your diary, plus Jamie Oliver’s top people and places 54 Food lovers’ weekend Garden centres and gardens with outstanding food
Everyday
58 Make it tonight Easy midweek meals, all full of exciting favours and costed to help you budget 62 Canny Cook: I’m vegetarian, he loves meat! Meals the whole family can enjoy 67 Four new ways with lean turkey mince
bbcgoodfood.com
Weekend 74
80 86 92 96 98 103 106
Meat-free mains Creative recipes that make vegetables the star attraction Bank Holiday baking Simple yet scrumptious cakes and bakes Sunshine & picnics Seize the day with these portable treats to please a crowd Thrifty food for friends Entertain in style for less than £5 per guest Pop-tastic party drinks! Invite friends round for Eurovision Song Contest cocktails Special supper for two BBC chef Tom Kerridge cooks lemon sole Cake Club A Queen of Hearts cake to mark the 150th anniversary of Alice in Wonderland Let the kids cook dinner Spend time together making lasagne and garlic bread
May 2015
98
82
Tom Kerridge’s lemon sole – an exclusive recipe for Good Food
74
Double ginger cookies
Vegetables get star billing in these inventive meat-free mains
Eat well
121 Nutritious lunch Asian chicken spiralized salad 122 NEW SERIES The ultimate recipe for… What to eat for a specifc health concern. This month: good gut health 124 Make it healthier Lighter South Indian fish curry 127 Three new side dishes made with grains 128 A week of low-cal meals All under 500 calories
Good reads 14
Happy birthday, Good Food We celebrate our 25th and honour the game changers who have influenced the way we shop, cook and eat 41 We’re growing together How allotments and community gardens create a food lovers’ haven 46 25 ways to a greener kitchen 50 Food & friendship 100 years of the WI 116 My kitchen Chef Anna Jones
Cook school
132 Our team share tips and techniques 134 Masterclass Learn to make Japanese gyoza 136 Storecupboard heroes Oils
May 2015
Every month 6
8 9 11 12 44 105 110 112 119 139 144 145 146
Enjoy more Good Food Find us online, on social media and at our shows Recipe index Get the best from our recipes Plus menu planner This month we’re… loving our veg What’s cooking News, reviews and trends Spiralizers on test WIN! A fabulous foodie trip to Scotland Receive a £20 John Lewis gift card when you subscribe to BBC Good Food Chefs’ specials TV recipes In next month’s issue Sneak preview Classified advertisements From your kitchen Your letters and photos Reader recipe Akoori – Indian scrambled eggs The food chain Chocolatier Paul A Young and chef Peter Gordon
Just for you
READER OFFERS
Grow your own courgettes Free p&p p64
Improve your baking with this food mixer Save over 55% p120
Create delicious desserts with an ice cream maker Save £160 p131
Fantastic getaways to Portugal and Italy From £909pp p138
Make our cover recipe – p24 Cover photograph DAVID MUNNS Recipe SARAH COOK Food styling EMILY KYDD Styling VICTORIA ALLEN
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LIVE SHOWS ONLINE DIGITAL MOBILE l
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Anytime, anywhere – inspiring you to get more from the food you love
You can’t beat the buzz of a live show, and you’ll enjoy great entertainment at the BBC Good Food Show Summer at the NEC, Birmingham, next month. Experience the excitement of the crowd in the Supertheatre sessions, where you can see stars such as James Martin, Mary Berry and Tom Kerridge cooking seasonal dishes live. Plus, get up close to your culinary heroes in book-signing sessions and live interviews. The Show really does bring your favourite magazine to life – for details and to book, turn to page 69 or visit bbcgoodfoodshowsummer.com.
TWO WAYS TO VIEW
MAGAZINE
How to contact us Subscription enquiries and back issues For new subscriptions, to tell us about changes of name or address, or for any other subscription queries: Call 01795 414754 Email bbcgoodfood @servicehelpline.co.uk Write BBC Good Food, Building 800, Guillat Avenue, Kent Science Park, Sittingbourne, Kent ME9 8GU
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Book now for a summer day out
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Recipe enquiries and letters page Call 020 7150 5022 (Mon-Fri, 9.30am-5.30pm) Email enquiries@bbcgood foodmagazine.com Write BBC Good Food, Immediate Media Company Limited, Vineyard House, 44 Brook Green, Hammersmith, London W6 7BT. • We regret that we are unable to answer medical/ nutritional queries. Website enquiries Call 020 8433 1826 Email goodfood website@bbc.com Reader offer enquiries Call 020 7150 5358 Email liza.evans@ immediate.co.uk
Picnics & parties
Exclusive video
Whether you fancy baking a simple sponge or want to show off with choux pastry, the easy tips, step-by-step recipes and video guides at bbcgoodfood.com can help. Get ready for picnic season with hamper treats, from Scotch eggs to pretty palmiers – or discover how to prepare, cook and present dinner party classics, from beef Wellington to a crunchy-topped crème brûlée. Whatever you want to cook, you’ll fnd what you’re looking for at bbcgoodfood.com.
Make cocktails & fun party drinks!
General Show enquiries Call 020 3405 4286
Our promise to you We’ll bring you the best recipes you’ll fnd anywhere to cook at home. You can trust us – every recipe in the magazine, including those from top chefs or cookery books, is tested and retested until we’re confdent it will work frst time for you at home. Find out more on page 9. l We know that healthy eating is important to you and your family, so we offer new ways to eat well, plus vital nutritional information. l We’ll show you how to cook with seasonal produce and you’ll discover new ingredients and favours. l We’re realistic about budgets – you’ll find costs per serving on many dishes. l Above all, whatever kind of cook you are, we promise you’ll fnd plenty to inspire and excite you at BBC Good Food. l l
100+ vegetarian recipes The latest instalment of the Home Cooking Series is here – our new Vegetarian Summer magazine. With over 100 brilliant recipes – every one tested in the BBC Good Food kitchen – you’ll fnd plenty of inspiration for midweek and special occasions. Vegetarian Summer is available now, at £3.80. Why not ask your newsagent to order you a copy – or download the digital edition from the Apple App Store.
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BBC Good Food Shows For tickets: Call 0844 581 1354
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Join the conversation Catch up with fellow cooks, comment on our recipes, and discover what we’re up to in the Good Food Test Kitchen. Visit bbcgoodfood.com for advice on healthy eating and special diets, online conversion charts and thousands more triple-tested recipes. You can also follow us on facebook.com/bbcgoodfood, Instagram and Twitter @bbcgoodfood
May 2015
This month’s recipes RECIPE KEY
Healthy option
Low fat
20
Salads, sides, soups & brunch Akoori (Indian scrambled eggs) 145 Asparagus soup with tartines 20 Big breakfast with asparagus 24 Bulghar wheat & rocket tabbouleh 127 Crusty garlic bread 108 Gyoza (Japanese dumplings) 134 New potatoes with cheddar cheese sauce 100 Pearled spelt with tarragon & red grapes 127 Quinoa, pea & avocado salad 127 Spiced fried potatoes & green beans 94 Tofu brekkie pancakes 30 Watercress soup with bacon dumplings 94 Wilted spring greens in nut oil 100
Drinks & cocktails Apfelstrudel sidecar 96 Blueberry & mint iced tea 90 Elderfower & cucumber G&Ts 86 Phoenix fzz 96 Puppet on a string 96 Rosy spritzers 88 Shine a light 96 Winner’s bouquet 96
Gluten free
Suitable for freezing
104
28
Vegetarian mains Asparagus, avocado & quinoa superfood tabbouleh 23 Asparagus soup with tartines 20 Black bean, tofu & avocado rice bowl 63 Charred spring vegetables with watercress dressing 118 Cheesy omelette burgers 63 Free-form asparagus & potato tart 20 Gnocchi with parsley, butter & samphire 78 Herby rice with roasted veg, chickpeas & halloumi 58 Lentil kofta with orzo & feta 64 Pepper, pesto & sweetcorn calzones 65 Roasted caulifower with spring veg & barley salad 76 Roasted squash, tomato & spinach lasagne 129 Saucy miso mushrooms with udon noodles 64 Smoky tofu tortillas 28 Spicy noodles with spring onions & fried eggs 58 Spring onion quesadillas with guacamole salad 60 Taleggio tart with walnut pastry 76 Tamarind aubergine with black rice, mint & feta 76 Tofu escalopes with black olive salsa verde 28
100 Fish & seafood Aubergine with prawns in oyster sauce 58 Baked lemon sole with lemon & caper paste 100 Beer-battered fsh 128 Lighter South Indian fsh curry 124 Lobster with escargot butter 113 Poached salmon & asparagus with wild garlic mayonnaise 20 Roast radish, new potato & peppered mackerel salad 59 Tuna & sweetcorn cheat’s jackets 128
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brand-new tested recipes for you
Poultry
Baking & desserts
Asian chicken spiralized salad 121 Ginger turkey lettuce wraps 68 Indian spiced chicken with squash & beans 122 Korean fried chicken burgers 35 One-pot chicken with chorizo & new potatoes 34 Spring roast chicken 34 Sticky citrus chicken 60 Thai red chicken curry 129 Turkey & mushroom pot pies 68 Turkey Bolognese pasta bake 68 Turkey meatballs in olive & courgette sauce 59 Turkey meatloaf 68
Blackcurrant coconut slices 82 Cheese & Marmite scones 82 Chilli chocolate & black bean brownies 84 Dad’s banana custard trife 115 Double ginger cookies 82 Ice cream cupcakes 114 Kathy’s Oat biscuits 52 Pimm’s jelly jars 88 Profteroles with cheat’s custard 115 Queen of Hearts cake 104 Raspberry & coconut scones 86 St Clement’s curd muffns 84 Tipsy rhubarb & blood orange jelly 94
Meat
Asparagus & prosciutto bundles with goat’s cheese & hazelnut dip 86 Coronation drumsticks 90 Creamy beetroot houmous 90 Fennel, pomegranate & broad bean salad 88 Pastry-less pork pie 88 Squash, pea & feta frittatinis 90 Smoked salmon & poppy seed palmiers 86
Bacon & avocado frittata 60 Balsamic steak with white bean mash 128 Braised & pulled beef tacos 112 Classic lasagne 107 MAKE OUR COVER RECIPE Garlicky lamb cutlets with Sicilian-style greens 24 Herb-brined pork chops 94 Lamb, spinach & ricotta burgers 59
bbcgoodfood.com
Pack a picnic!
May 2015
Menu planner Two exciting menus to try using this month’s recipes
Eurovision party food for 4
Start with cocktals – Winner’s bouquet p96
Squash, pea & feta frittatinis p90
GET THE BEST FROM OUR RECIPES Every month, we provide all the information you’ll need to help you choose which recipes to cook All the recipes in Good Food magazine are tested thoroughly before publication, so they’ll work frst time for you at home. Most are developed in our Test Kitchen by our cookery team, with additional recipes from food writers, TV chefs or cookery books. However, no matter who writes the original recipe, each one is tested rigorously before being included in the magazine. Your time and money are precious, so we want to guarantee you a great result every time.
Developing and testing Good Food recipes
Ginger turkey lettuce wraps – low fat and low cal, and totally delicious p68
Chilli chocolate & black bean brownies p84 (leftovers will keep in a tin for a few days)
Smart spring dinner for 6
Gnocchi with parsley, butter & samphire
p78
Pearled spelt with tarragon & red grapes p127 (double
Poached salmon & asparagus with wild garlic mayonnaise p20
Profteroles with cheat’s custard p115
• We aim to make recipes practical, keeping ingredients lists to a minimum and avoiding lengthy preparation. • We help you to avoid waste by using full packs, cans and jars where possible. When it’s not possible, we try to include suggestions for leftovers. • We cost many of our Everyday dishes to help you budget effciently. • We generally use easily available ingredients, and seasonal fruit and vegetables. • Where possible, we create and test recipes using humanely reared meats, free-range chickens
Helping you to eat well
Reference Intake (RI)
All our recipes are analysed by a nutritional therapist on a per-serving basis. Each recipe analysis includes listed ingredients only, excluding optional extras such as seasoning and serving suggestions. Simple changes can make a recipe healthier – such as removing chicken skin after cooking, or using a low-salt stock. If you serve the portion size suggested, you can work out how each recipe fts into your day-to-day diet by comparing the fgures with the Reference Intake (RI). This has replaced Guideline Daily Amounts (GDAs) on food labels and packaging. Unlike the GDAs, where fgures existed for men, women and children, there is now only one set of RI fgures – these are effectively the GDA fgures for an average adult female.
The RIs are a guide to the amount of energy (kilocalories), fat, saturated fat, carbohydrate, sugar, protein and salt that an adult should consume each day: Energy 2,000 kcals, Protein 50g, Carbohydrates 260g, Sugar 90g, Fat 70g, Saturates 20g, Salt 6g. The RIs for fat, saturated fat, sugar and salt are maximum daily amounts.
the recipe and eat any leftovers for lunch the next day)
May 2015
and eggs, and sustainably sourced fsh. • We use unrefned sugars (such as golden caster sugar), which contain natural molasses, unless we want icing to look white. • Where egg size is important, you’ll fnd it stated in the recipe. • We recommend using standard level measuring spoons, and that you never mix metric and imperial measures. Please note that recipes created for Advertisement features are checked by our cookery team but not tested in the Good Food Test Kitchen.
bbcgoodfood.com
What our recipe symbols mean EASY Simple recipes that everyone can make, even beginners. A LITTLE EFFORT Requiring a little more skill – such as making pastry. MORE OF A CHALLENGE Recipes aimed at more experienced cooks, who cook for pleasure and like a challenge. Suitable for vegetarians But always check labels on ingredients such as cheese, pesto and curry sauces, to ensure they are suitable. Not suitable for freezing Suitable for freezing Unless otherwise stated, freeze for up to three months. Defrost thoroughly and heat until piping hot.
Understanding our healthy symbols LOW FAT GOOD 4 YOU
12g or less per serving. Low in saturated fat, with 5g or less per serving; low in salt, with 1.5g or less; and low in sugar, with 15g or less. HEART HEALTHY Low in saturated fat, with 5g or less per serving; low in salt, with 1.5g or less; and high in omega-3. LOW CAL 500 calories or less per main course; 150 calories or less for a dessert. 2 OF 5 A DAY The number of portions of fruit and/or veg contained in a serving. CALCIUM
FOLATE FIBRE VIT C IRON
Indicating recipes that are good sources of vitamins or nutrients. GLUTEN FREE This indicates a recipe that is free from gluten, but excludes any serving suggestions. For more information on gluten-free cooking, visit coeliac.org.uk. • We regret that we are unable to answer medical/nutritional queries. OMEGA-3
• For thousands more of our tested recipes, plus ‘how to’ cookery videos and healthy eating advice from the experts, visit bbcgoodfood.com
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This month we’re…
L ving our veg
Enjoy your greens – plus purples, reds and yellows – during National Vegetarian Week, 18-24 May
l, owe ea t t t o tro Bee
com for. dry o t , £10
, .75 £9 , six s of of et rietie ns s d a bea ee nv le s talia rlotti b I a t a ge Grow nd b ve m o.uk ots a o irlo f.c arr He sche as c u uch o s g, s ve
Country Kitchen copper-effect stainless-steel colander, £15, shop.nationaltrust.org.uk
Joie pepper storage pod, £3.95, kitchenbuddies.co.uk
Jersey Royal potatoes, widely available They’re not around for long each year, so make the most of them now. See our Free-form asparagus & potato tart on page 20
Feature HOLLY BROOKE-SMITH
Vegetable gardener mug, £14.99, astonpottery.co.uk
Garden Trading vegetable store, 46 x 52cm, £100, John Lewis
Cook’s carrot silicone whisk, £15, maidenshop.com
Canvas vegetable storage bag, £10.50, notonthehighstreet.com
Personalised Bunny Ears oak board (28cm), £25.99, gettingpersonal.co.uk
May 2015
bbcgoodfood.com
New ways to prep veg! Turn to p44 for our favourite spiralizers
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What’s cooking This month’s news, reviews, best buys and trends
GOOD FOOD FAVOURITE Hand-painted four-tier Madhubani tiffn, £35.99, indian-tiffn.com We were hunting for props for a photo shoot when we came across these tins – and fell in love! As well as a handy way to carry hot food, they’ll make eye-catching serving dishes on the table.
OR
BO
S OK F
•C O O K S•
BOOKS FOR COOKS Leiths: How to Cook Bread by Leiths School of Food and Wine (£15, Good Food offer price £13.50, Quadrille)
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REAL BREAD WINNERS
If you’ve been tempted by the trend for baking your own bread, this new book will help you to develop your skills. Learn how to add different flours and flavours to a loaf, the technique for croissants, even how to make the perfect Chelsea buns. The most useful aspect is the step photos – not on every recipe, but for when you may need extra help.
Spring by Skye Gyngell (£25, Good Food offer price £22.50, Quadrille) Written to mark the opening of her new restaurant, Spring, in London’s Somerset House. Skye, who was awarded a Michelin star while at Petersham Nurseries, charts the fascinating story of the design and creation of the restaurant. The book also features 80 recipes from her menu, including Butterflied lamb with roasted beetroots & carrots and Bitter chocolate & espresso cake.
Hog by Richard H Turner (£25, Good Food offer price £21, Mitchell Beazley) Richard H Turner, a meat-loving chef, is also one half of a London-based independent butcher’s shop. His recipes, celebrating the pig, are easy to follow: from brining pork chops in cider or honey and milk to an impressive Wild boar Wellington and a pulled pork sandwich to beat all others. There is plenty of information on breeds, however it is the recipes that will keep you coming back.
TAKE A COOKERY CLASS Eyes on Pies, Christine McFadden Cookery School, Dorset (01308 482784, thedorsetfoodie.co.uk) Nestled in beautiful Dorset countryside, Christine McFadden – aka The Dorset Foodie – takes classic techniques and great local ingredients back to basics on this pastry and pie course. In the homely kitchen of her 17th-century thatched cottage, Christine welcomes the group of seven with coffee. We each have our
■ BBC Good Food readers can buy any of this month’s books at a discount, plus you’ll also receive a free bookmark. Simply call 01326 569444, p&p is free. Or buy online at sparkledirect.com/goodfood.
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own set of equipment and food arranged around the kitchen. After a brief introduction to the science and artistry behind good pastry-making, we got stuck in, making a hand-raised game pie. Then we tackled Cheese & chilli pasties, and a Beef, celery & walnut pie – which demonstrate good shortcrust and rough-puff pastry. We fnished by making citrus puddings using suet pastry, before sitting down to eat our creations. Verdict A very productive day in a relaxed and intimate environment. I left loaded down with various pies, and much more confdence about making different pastries. Cost £135 including lunch with wine, and a folder with our recipes and cooking tips.
It’s Real Bread Week this month – 9-15 May – and the charity behind the campaign, Sustain, has created a much-needed directory of all the places nationwide that sell ‘good’ bread. To meet the campaign’s criteria, the bread must be made using some stoneground four, plus the dough must be fermented for a minimum of four hours. The baking process should be continuous – so the dough should not have been part-baked or frozen. In addition, the four must be organic and produced within a 30-mile radius of the bakery. Enter your postcode into The Real Bread Finder at sustainweb.org/realbread to discover producers selling top loaves near you. l
Helen Upshall
bbcgoodfood.com
May 2015
DRINK NOTES Sarah Jane Evans looks ahead to English Wine Week Kent Vineyard in Sissinghurst is one of several farms opening their doors to visitors during this week, 23-31 May. Spend the morning in the vineyard, followed by a lunch at nearby pub The Milk House (visit kentvineyard.co.uk for full details).
Wiston Estate Sparkling Rosé 2011, West Sussex, 12%, £35.95, swig.co.uk
Three Choirs Rosé 2013, England, 10.5%, £8.50, thewine society.com
Judith Beck Zweigelt 2012, Burgenland, Austria, 13%, £10.99, Waitrose
Wiston’s superb rosé, its frst ever, won a trio of gold awards last year. And the Queen is clearly a fan – in March this year she launched P&O’s Britannia by smashing a Nebuchadnezzar (the equivalent to 20 bottles) of the NV (priced at £24.95 a bottle) across its bows.
Start summer early with Three Choirs, a Gloucestershire winery that’s well worth a visit. The wine is light, bright and off-dry – it’s lovely chilled. You can drink it on its own, but it also goes well with shellfsh and spicy dishes.
Zweigelt is the fnal grape in the A-Z of varieties. In Austria, it makes light-hearted cherry and spice reds, perfect on Eurovision night with sausages and cheeses – or just by itself. Prefer white? Then Austria’s favourite, Grüner Veltliner (2013, Austria, 12.5%, £7.99, Waitrose), is good value.
* Figure from Bottlegreen (bottlegreendrinks.com). Feature HOLLY BROOKE-SMITH Photographs ADRIAN TAYLOR, GETTY IMAGES, ISTOCKPHOTO
Did you know? A 500ml bottle of elderflower cordial contains 3,000 individual flowers from the plant.* HOLLY’S TROLLEY Beloved date granola, £3.99, belovedates.com Containing rolled oats, flaked barley, spelt, seeds, nuts and dates, this granola makes a luxury breakfast – and doesn’t taste as sweet as many others.
Canarejal Cremoso sheep’s milk cheese, £9.95/250g, brindisa.com An incredibly creamy cheese, made in the Castilla y León region of north-west Spain. Cut off the top and scoop out the middle with breadsticks or crackers.
Fruit Heroes Pure Fruit Bar, 59p, Holland & Barrett With no added sugar, colourings, preservatives, gluten or dairy, these little fruit bars are a tasty, no-guilt snack. They do contain natural fruit sugars, but nothing processed.
TRENDSPOTTER: RAW FOODS Jessica Simmons tells us why raw food is all the rage. Jessica writes the popular blog nourishingjessica.com. Raw food is beginning to shake off its faddy, no-fun image as the rapidly growing health food movement gathers pace. A strict raw food diet involves the consumption of unprocessed foods, such as fruit, vegetables, grains, legumes, nuts and seeds that have not been heated above 49C. Raw foodists believe that cooking food above this temperature diminishes (or destroys) valuable vitamins and minerals, as well as important enzymes that aid digestion. Glowing skin, higher energy levels and weight loss are among the benefts cited by advocates, whose juicers, blenders and dehydrators tend to get more of a kitchen workout than their ovens.
I would never attempt a fully raw food diet, as it can be challenging; I fnd that having a couple of raw meals a week is just as benefcial, and makes me feel lighter and clearer. I believe incorporating more raw food into your diet is defnitely a good idea, such as my Raw courgetti or Raspberry ripple banana ‘ice cream’ (above). Both recipes are on my blog. Look out for brands like Raw Health – its range includes products that would previously have been off-limits to those on a predominantly raw food diet, such as olives, ripened on the tree and preserved in cold-pressed oil, and vinegar, made only from unpasteurised apple juice. Raw restaurants are popping up too, like Nama Foods, in London’s Notting Hill, and the Wild Food Café, in Covent Garden. Their menus feature falafel wraps and pizza bases created from caulifower and ground nuts – not to mention their famous raw desserts and smoothies.
GADGET GEEK Cricut Explore Design and Cutting System, £249.99, hobbycraft.co.uk This high-tech printer is a must-have for anyone crafting their own wedding invitations, or if you’re about to set up a cake business. It cuts intricate lattices into paper (fantastic for cupcake wrappers and cake toppers), makes foldable card designs and can even ‘handwrite’ messages. It cuts many materials, from paper and card to leather, vinyl and fabric.
May 2015
bbcgoodfood.com
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On the night of the party, we announced our BBC Good Food Great Game Changers – our hotlist of people and organisations that have infuenced the way we shop, cook and eat today. From the creator of the Great British Bake Off and a dedicated food scientist, to the brains behind Wahaca and FoodCycle, a charity tackling the problem of waste, we wanted to recognise all their achievements.
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Our stunning cake was made by Edd Kimber, 2010 winner of Great British Bake Off
BBC chefs James Martin and Monica Galetti (right)
Jo Wheatley, 2011 winner of GBBO
James Martin
Angela Hartnett
Fiona Hamilton-Fairley As the woman
The talented chef, with a down-to-earth touch, has hosted 400 episodes of BBC One’s Saturday Kitchen. This makes it the longest-running Saturday morning programme with the same presenter in UK history. James’s relaxed style has won him legions of fans and, during his tenure on Saturday Kitchen, he’s encouraged many up-and-coming chefs to cook with him on the show.
One of our highestprofile female chefs, Angela (left) has inspired a generation of women to follow her into the tough world of professional kitchens. Awarded an MBE in 2007, she is head chef at the Michelin-starred restaurant Murano in Mayfair, London.
behind the Kids’ Cookery School in Acton, west London, Fiona (below) has been responsible for changing the lives of families for the past 20 years by teaching children to cook (thekidscookeryschool.co.uk).
Anna Beattie The creator and producer of the BBC’s Great British Bake Off, Anna was commended for galvanising a new generation of bakers and creating a global TV sensation that has homemade food at its heart.
Veg box delivery Entrepreneurs in this area have allowed consumers to combine the convenience of home delivery with access to the best fresh and local ingredients. As well as the big-name, nationwide companies, we also salute the smaller organisations, including local greengrocers, who help to get good food into more hands.
bbcgoodfood.com
Food styling XXXXXXXXXXXXXX
Saluting the Game Changers
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A showstopping cake, celebration cocktails and fabulous food – all the ingredients for a memorable party to mark our 25 years as Britain’s No 1 food magazine. Scores of Britain’s top chefs joined us for our anniversary bash in London, including James Martin, Antonio Carluccio and Monica Galetti, as well as Great British Bake Off winners John Whaite, Edd Kimber and Jo Wheatley, and MasterChef champions Tim Anderson and Dhruv Baker. But the world of food is not all about glamorous parties and glorious feasts. So we also took the opportunity to applaud our BBC Good Food Great Game Changers – see below.
Happy Birthday
May 2015
Good reads
Annabel Karmel
Tim Anderson, MasterChef 2011 winner
Above: BBC Good Food Editor Gillian Carter (in red top) with James Martin and members of the team. Below: BBC Good Food Cookery assistant Chelsie Collins with Monica Galetti (below)
BBC GOOD FOOD 25TH PARTY MENU Mini smoked haddock Scotch eggs Pea & feta toasts
Party photographs RICHARD YOUNG/REX | Cake photograph KOLI PICKERSGILL
Butternut soup shots with crispy pancetta soldiers
Ching-He Huang with MasterChef 2009 winner Mat Follas. Right: chef Tony Singh
Richard Burr, 2014 finalist on GBBO
Beef & ale pies Hay-baked lamb Pheasant curry Individual shepherd’s pies Blood orange Bakewell tart Sparkling chocolate lollipops Liquid nitrogen ice creams Chef Antonio Carluccio
Thomasina Miers Former BBC MasterChef winner and the woman behind the hugely successful Wahaca chain of restaurants, Thomasina (left) has made us think differently about Mexican cuisine, putting its distinctive flavours bang in the middle of our high streets.
FoodCycle This inspirational organisation was given a Game Changer gong for tackling the issue of food wastage by major supermarkets, and connecting communities with their local food and cooking services through volunteer ‘hubs’ (foodcycle.org.uk).
May 2015
Chef Anjum Anand
Chef Brian Turner
Thank you Good Food
Michael Mosley Controversial, outspoken and willing to eat, drink or try just about anything in the name of research, scientist and BBC presenter Michael has shaken up the way we think about food and health by keeping the subject in the headlines.
Budget supermarkets These stores have revolutionised our high street by providing exciting and cost-conscious alternatives for consumers.
Sorted Food Inspiring a new generation to love cooking, this enormous online community proves that there’s more to media success than getting a mainstream TV show (sortedfood.com).
Jack Monroe With her practical recipes and resourcefulness, the award-winning food writer and blogger put budget cooking at the top of the agenda.
bbcgoodfood.com
Food writer Jack Monroe, pictured at the party, later posted this tribute on Instagram
Such a happy evening at @bbcgoodfood anniversary party, I had a bit of a cry when they asked what @bbcgoodfood meant to me, as it’s basically how I taught myself to cook, by looking up recipes online and practising the basics. Having such an easy-to-access resource and such clear instructions gave me the confidence to experiment in the kitchen… and I hope my blog does something similar today 10 years on. This is me being really really happy, standing in a room that represents everything I admired as a teen and could never ever in my wildest dreams have thought I would be a part of… tonight was a truly happy, humbling thing.’
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In season Inspiration for this month’s freshest produce
At their best now Fruit & veg u Asparagus u Broad beans u Carrots u Caulifower u Elderfower u Jersey Royals and new potatoes
u Pea shoots u Radishes u Rhubarb u Rocket u Salad onions u Samphire u Sorrel u Watercress
Fish & seafood u Dab u Plaice u Pollock u Trout
Meat & game u Spring lamb u Wood pigeon
May 2015
bbcgoodfood.com
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Star of the month
The British asparagus crop is at its fnest right now. Enjoy this short special season while it lasts, with exciting new recipes from Sarah Cook Photographs DAVID MUNNS
rm -fo ee Fr
us rag pa as tart otato &p
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bbcgoodfood.com
May 2015
In season Poached salmon & asparagus with wild garlic mayonnaise
May 2015
bbcgoodfood.com
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Free-form asparagus & potato tart A LITTLE EFFORT
CALCIUM
uncooked pastry only SERVES 8 PREP 40 mins plus overnight freezing and chilling COOK 30 mins
400g/14oz Jersey Royals 2 tbsp wholegrain mustard 140g/5oz asparagus (after snapping off woody ends) 140g/5oz Gruyère, coarsely grated 200g/7oz pot soured cream 1 large egg FOR THE PASTRY 175g/6oz block of butter, frozen 300g/11oz plain four, plus extra for dusting 50g/2oz Gruyère, coarsely grated
1 The morning before you make the pie, put the butter in the freezer – frst wrap it in foil, which will help to keep it cold when you grate it later. 2 To make the pastry, put the four in a big bowl and mix in a good pinch of salt and the cheese. Using a coarse cheese grater, grate in the butter – try to hold it as little as possible so it doesn’t warm up too much – and stir it in with a knife as you go. When all the butter is in, give it a fnal stir to make sure all the strands of butter are coated with four, then quickly stir in 125ml of very cold water. Splash in a little more if it looks dry, then lightly bring the pastry together with
Poached salmon & asparagus with wild garlic mayonnaise A smart main course for a spring lunch – and spectacular when cooked, then served at the table. 1 OF 5 A LITTLE EFFORT FOLATE OMEGA-3 A DAY
SERVES 6 PREP 25 mins COOK 35 mins
about 450g/1lb fat asparagus spears (after snapping off woody ends) 1 skinless side of salmon 2 unwaxed lemons, 1 zested and juiced 50g/2oz butter cooked new potatoes, to serve FOR THE MAYONNAISE about 10 wild garlic leaves (optional) 3 large egg yolks 2 tsp English mustard 200ml/7f oz sunfower oil 200ml/7f oz rapeseed oil 1 tbsp white wine vinegar white pepper, to taste
1 For the mayonnaise, bring a pan of water to the boil and have a bowl of iced water ready. Plunge the garlic leaves into the boiling water for 30 secs, then lift out with a slotted spoon and drop into the iced water – this helps to keep the green colour. Leave for a few mins, then pat dry and put in a mini food processor with the egg yolks and mustard. Pulse until fnely chopped, then scrape into a big mixing bowl. Pour the oils into a jug.
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your hands. Wrap in cling flm and chill for at least 30 mins. 3 Meanwhile, bring a big pan of water to the boil, then tip in the potatoes. Boil until just tender, then drain well, slice and allow to cool. 4 Heat oven to 200C/180C fan/gas 6 with a baking tray inside. On a large sheet of baking parchment dusted with a little four, roll out the pastry into a rough circle about 30cm wide, until the thickness of 2 x £1 coins. Brush the mustard over the pastry. Arrange the potatoes, asparagus and most of the Gruyère in layers in the centre of the base, leaving a border of pastry that’s roughly 5cm all the way around. Season and fold up the pastry edges to enclose the vegetables and cheese, pinching the edges to seal. Whisk together the soured cream and the egg with a little seasoning, then pour into the centre of the tart. Sprinkle over the remaining cheese and slide the tart onto the preheated baking tray. Bake for 30 mins until the pastry is golden and crisp. Eat just warm or at room temperature. PER SERVING energy 510 kcals • fat 33g • saturates 20g • carbs 38g • sugars 3g • fibre 3g • protein 14g • salt 1.1g
Taste team comment 'I’m a big fan of asparagus, and this was a great way to use it. The potatoes and cream gave it a delicious Dauphinoise quality. I would use Dijon mustard instead of wholegrain next time, as I like a bit of a kick.' LUKE
2 Whisk the yolks mixture with an electric whisk. Slowly add the oil, frst a drip at a time, then in a steady, thin drizzle – the mixture should thicken and start to look like mayonnaise. If at any point it starts to look greasy, add 1 tbsp cold water and continue whisking until all the oil has been added and you have a thick mayonnaise. Add the vinegar and season with salt and white pepper. Lay cling flm directly onto the surface of the mayonnaise so a skin doesn’t form, then chill. Will keep for 3 days in the fridge. 3 Heat oven to 180C/160C fan/gas 4. Put a large sheet of baking parchment in a large roasting tin and arrange the asparagus in a line that’s long enough for the salmon to sit on. Season, put the salmon on top and scatter over the lemon zest. Thinly slice the remaining lemon and put the slices on top of the salmon with the butter. Pour over the lemon juice and season. Bring the sides of the parchment up and over the salmon and scrunch together to seal, creating a tent over the fsh. Bake in the oven for 30 mins. 4 Bring the roasting tin to the table, open the parcel, and serve with a bowl of wild garlic mayonnaise and some new potatoes on the side. PER SERVING energy 550 kcals • fat 43g • saturates 9g • carbs 2g • sugars 2g • fibre 2g • protein 37g • salt 0.4g
bbcgoodfood.com
Asparagus soup with tartines EASY
OF 5 FOLATE FIBRE 2 A DAY
SERVES 6 as a starter, 4 for lunch PREP 5 mins COOK 35 mins
2 onions, sliced 25g/1oz butter 650g/1lb 7oz asparagus (after snapping off woody ends) 1 litre/13/4pints vegetable stock 350g/12oz frozen peas 8 thin slices baguette or small loaf (white or seeded) 1 tbsp hazelnut oil, plus a drizzle to serve 150g pack soft goat’s cheese 25g/1oz blanched hazelnuts, toasted and roughly chopped handful pea shoots
1 In a large saucepan, soften the onions in the butter. Meanwhile, trim about 5cm off the ends of 16 of your thinnest asparagus spears and set these aside. Roughly chop the remaining asparagus and stir into the onions. Cook for a few mins, then tip in the stock. Cover and boil for 10 mins, then uncover, stir in the peas and cook for 2 mins more. 2 Whizz the soup with a blender until smooth, then return to the pan. Season well and add a splash more water if it looks a little thick. 3 Meanwhile, cook the reserved asparagus tips in boiling water until just cooked, then drain and dry on kitchen paper. 4 When you’re ready to serve, warm the soup gently. Brush the baguette slices with the hazelnut oil and toast, then spread with some goat’s cheese and top with a couple of the asparagus tips, plus a sprinkling of hazelnuts. Ladle the soup into bowls, foat a toast on each with a few pea shoots and drizzle with a little more hazelnut oil. Serve extra toasts on the side. PER SERVING (6) energy 397 kcals • fat 17g • saturates 7g • carbs 36g • sugars 9g • fibre 10g • protein 20g • salt 1.4g
Taste team comment 'The beautiful favour of the salmon was complemented perfectly by the asparagus and mayonnaise. The dish is impressive, and ideal for a dinner party. To make it cheaper, you could acheive the same results with salmon fllets.' SOPHIE
May 2015
In season
A
May 2015
sp ec ial
lun ch or d inne r party starter
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ch lun d ke ac p y lth a e rh e p su
Le fto ve rs m ak e
a
In season
Asparagus, avocado & quinoa superfood tabbouleh EASY
LOW FOLATE VIT C IRON 2 OF 5 GLUTEN CAL A DAY FREE
SERVES 4-6 PREP 5 mins COOK 30 mins
300g/11oz quinoa 250g/9oz soya beans 12 fat asparagus spears, woody ends snapped off and tips and stalks separated 300g/11oz Greek yogurt 1 tsp sweet paprika, plus a pinch to serve 2 garlic cloves, crushed zest and juice 2 lemons 1 /2 large cucumber, halved lengthways, seeds scooped out with a teaspoon, sliced 4 spring onions (we used the ones with the fat bottoms), thinly sliced large pack mint, leaves picked 2 small packs dill, roughly chopped
May 2015
large pack parsley, roughly chopped 2 avocados, stoned, peeled and cut into chunks juice 3 limes 1 tbsp agave syrup 2 tbsp rapeseed oil
1 Cook the quinoa following pack instructions, then leave to cool. Bring a pan of water to the boil, add the soya beans and cook for 2 mins, then add the asparagus tips and cook for 1 min more. Drain everything and leave to cool. 2 Meanwhile, mix the yogurt with the paprika, garlic and most of the lemon zest. Season and chill. 3 Using a vegetable peeler, slice the asparagus stalks into thin ribbons (you won’t be able to do the whole stalk as it will get too thin, but these pieces are perfect for soup). Keep in iced water until ready so they curl.
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4 On a large platter, combine the quinoa, cooked soya beans and asparagus tips, cucumber, spring onions, herbs and avocado. Drain the asparagus ribbons and add them too. Whisk together the lime and lemon juices, agave syrup, rapeseed oil and some seasoning, then pour over the salad and gently toss to mix. Serve with the yogurt alongside, topped with the remaining lemon zest. PER SERVING (6) energy 402 kcals • fat 20g • saturates 5g • carbs 36g • sugars 10g • fibre 5g • protein 17g • salt 0.2g
Taste team comment 'This recipe was really easy to follow. The dish had clean, fresh favours and the dressing was fabulous. Next time I would add more avocado.' MO
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In season MAKE OUR COVER RECIPE
OF 5 GLUTEN EASY FOLATE FIBRE IRON 3 A DAY FREE
SERVES 4 PREP 15 mins plus at least 30 mins marinating COOK 45 mins
8 lamb cutlets (choose your favourite cut) 2 fat garlic cloves, thinly sliced 2-3 rosemary sprigs 4 tbsp olive oil 4 banana shallots (or 8-10 shallots), fnely sliced 2 tbsp light brown soft sugar or demerara 3 tbsp Sherry vinegar 85g/3oz sultanas 50g/2oz toasted pine nuts 200g/7oz asparagus spears (after snapping off woody ends) 200g/7oz podded and skinned broad beans (see right) 200g/7oz peas, fresh or frozen 25g/1oz baby spinach
Big breakfast with asparagus 1 OF 5 EASY FOLATE IRON A DAY
SERVES 2 PREP 5 mins COOK 35 mins
6 rashers streaky dry-cured bacon 2 fat slices black pudding 12 asparagus spears (after snapping off woody ends) 1 tsp sunfower oil 2 eggs buttered toast and your choice of sauce, to serve
1 Heat oven to 220C/200C fan/gas 7. Arrange the bacon and black pudding in a shallow roasting tin that’s large enough for all the ingredients to ft snugly. Roast for 10 mins until the bacon is starting to crisp up, then turn over the bacon and black pudding and cook for another 5 mins. 2 Toss the asparagus in the oil and season, then add to the tin in bunches. Roast for another 5 mins, then remove from the oven and turn the asparagus, leaving 2 holes for the eggs. Crack an egg into each gap and put back in the oven for 4-5 mins until the whites are just set but the yolks are still runny. Serve immediately, straight from the tin, with toast and your choice of sauce. PER SERVING energy 534 kcals • fat 39g • saturates 14g • carbs 14g • sugars 2g • fibre 2g • protein 30g • salt 4.8g
‘Cut down on the washing-up with this no-fuss “fry-up” where everything cooks in the oven’
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1 Use a small sharp knife to poke a few holes in each lamb cutlet, then push in slivers of garlic and rosemary leaves. Rub all over with 1 tbsp of the olive oil and leave to marinate for up to a day in the fridge, or at room temperature for 30 mins. 2 Put the remaining oil, the shallots and 1 rosemary sprig in a big frying pan. Gently cook until the shallots are very soft and golden. Remove the rosemary sprig and discard, then add the sugar, Sherry vinegar and sultanas. Cook for another few mins to plump up the fruit, then stir in the pine nuts and set aside. 3 Heat a big pan of water until boiling, then add the asparagus and broad beans for 11/2 mins. Tip in the peas, count to 10, then drain everything. Halve the asparagus spears lengthways. 4 Heat the grill or a griddle pan and season the lamb. Warm up the shallot mixture, then tip in all the cooked veg, plus the spinach with some seasoning. Stir together and gently warm through while you grill or griddle the lamb for 1-2 mins each side or until cooked to your liking. Serve with the veg.
Double podding broad beans You can eat small broad beans in their skins, but bigger ones are pretty indigestible, so it is worth skinning or ‘double podding’ them. To do this, blanch podded beans in boiling water for 30 seconds, then drain. Run under cold water to stop the cooking process and slip them from their skins to reveal the shiny beans. If you are using frozen beans, simply pour a kettle of boiling water over, then remove the skins.
Food styling EMILY KYDD | Styling VICTORIA ALLEN
Garlicky lamb cutlets with Sicilian-style greens
PER SERVING energy 753 kcals • fat 51g • saturates 17g • carbs 34g • sugars 28g • fibre 10g • protein 35g • salt 0.5g
May 2015
Swirls of favour in our new luxurious dairy ice-cream
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Let’s eat more…
In season
tofu
ck
ol ive sa lsa ver de
There’s far more to tofu than a stir-fry. Food writer Jane Hornby explains why curious cooks should pick up some bean curd Photographs DAVID MUNNS
Tofu
May 2015
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ith w es lop a c es
a bl
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Ricotta, aubergines and paneer. Each is wonderful to cook with, but without the herbs, spices, vanilla or sugar to lift them into that curry, pasta or tiramisu, they’re not all that interesting to eat. The same can be said for tofu (also know as bean curd), so why do we treat it with such disdain? Like paneer and the rest, tofu’s blandness is its biggest virtue. A kitchen shape-shifter, silken tofu can replace dairy and eggs in smoothies, desserts and baking, while frm tofu can become anything from a burger with barbecue sauce to a cannelloni flling. Interestingly, despite these times of clean and meat-free eating, tofu isn’t getting much of a look-in. Tofu, which is made from soya, is a processed food. However, it’s been around for 2,000 years, so I’m OK with that. It contains all eight essential amino acids, is high in vitamins and minerals, and is low in fat. Although much of the tofu we buy in the UK is GM-free and organic, there is concern about soya’s effect on global agriculture and the environment, plus controversy around soya in processed food. But for the moment, I feel happy cooking with good-quality tofu now and again, the upshot being that I’m eating less meat – another source of angst to the concerned consumer. So what do you need to know to get the most out of your tofu? Silken tofu and some favoured tofus can be used as they come, but frm tofu – packed in liquid – needs pressing to squeeze out the water it holds. It’s really worth it and only takes 30 minutes (see box, bottom right). Just as when browning meat, cook frm tofu on a high heat, don’t crowd the pan, and let it form a good crust before trying to turn it. If you’re stir-frying, cook the tofu frst and take it out of the wok – then add it back in at the end, as this will stop it from breaking up. To deep-fry, toss cubes in cornfour so that you get a crunchy outside and a custardy, soft middle. You don’t have to reserve tofu for vegetarian recipes – many classic Asian dishes mix tofu with meat or seafood to add texture, offset favours and make expensive ingredients go further. One pack of tofu costs a fraction of the equivalent weight in good lean meat or fsh, so whichever way you look at it, it’s worth a try.
CHOOSING YOUR TOFU Smoked tofu is a great place to start if you are worried about tofu tasting bland. Firm silken tofu is best in miso soups, served deep-fried or in baking, while frm block tofu is ideal for stir-fries.
Smoked tofu Will only need pressing if it comes packed in liquid – this one has added seeds and nuts. Firm silken tofu Has a silky, slippery texture and is not pressed before use. Do not confuse with the more delicate soft silken tofu. Firm block tofu Has a coarse, open texture, becoming creamier and smoother once pressed.
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Tofu escalopes with black olive salsa verde Marinated in a little soy and with a crisp mustard and Parmesan coating, this is a delicious alternative to chicken Milanese. Salsa verde usually includes anchovy, but to make it veggie, I’ve used punchy dry black olives instead. A LITTLE EFFORT
CALCIUM VIT C
coated but not cooked SERVES 4 PREP 20 mins plus pressing COOK 20 mins
600g/1lb 5oz small new potatoes (I used red-skinned Roseval) 396g pack frm tofu, drained and pressed (see box, bottom right) 2 tbsp light soy sauce 3 tbsp plain four 50g/2oz Parmesan (or vegetarian alternative), fnely grated 2 lemons, both zested, 1 juiced, 1 cut into wedges 50g/2oz panko or coarse dried breadcrumbs 1 egg 1 heaped tsp wholegrain mustard 2 tbsp vegetable or sunfower oil, for frying 100g bag watercress or rocket FOR THE SALSA VERDE 2 garlic cloves 50g/2oz basil, stalks roughly chopped 2 tbsp small capers (in brine), drained 4 tbsp extra virgin olive oil, plus extra to serve pinch of sugar 50g/2oz dry black pitted olives, sliced
1 Steam or boil the potatoes for 20 mins or until tender. Cut the pressed tofu into 4 rectangles, then splice each rectangle in half, like cutting a deck of cards. Lay the slices on a plate and sprinkle over the soy sauce. Set aside for 5 mins. 2 Meanwhile, make the salsa verde. Put the garlic, basil, capers, oil and sugar into a food processor with 3 tbsp lemon juice. Pulse until roughly chopped. Stir in the olives and season with pepper and a little salt. 3 Put the four on a plate and season with pepper. On another plate, mix the Parmesan and lemon zest into the breadcrumbs. Beat the egg, mustard and 2 tsp water in a wide bowl. Pat 1 slice of tofu in the four, then dip into the egg and coat with the breadcrumbs. Set aside. Repeat process until all the tofu is coated. 4 Heat the vegetable oil in a wide frying pan over a medium heat. Fry the tofu gently until golden brown, about 5 mins each side. Slice into fnger-width strips with a serrated knife, then mix together with the watercress and potatoes. Spoon over the salsa verde, drizzle over a little extra olive oil, and serve with lemon wedges on the side. PER SERVING energy 575 kcals • fat 31g • saturates 7g • carbs 50g • sugars 4g • fibre 5g • protein 22g • salt 3.1g
MARINATING Unpressed tofu is watery, making oil-based marinades ineffective – add oils (such as olive, chilli or sesame) at the end of cooking.
bbcgoodfood.com
Smoky tofu tortillas EASY
OF 5 CALCIUM FIBRE VIT C IRON 4 A DAY
chilli only SERVES 4 PREP 10 mins COOK about 15 mins
1 tbsp vegetable or olive oil 2 onions, each cut into 12 wedges 2 Romano peppers, deseeded and sliced small pack coriander, leaves picked and stems fnely chopped 2 tsp ground cumin 1 tsp hot smoked paprika 200g pack smoked tofu (I liked Taifun), cut into bite-sized pieces 400g can kidney beans, drained and rinsed 400g can cherry tomatoes 1 tbsp dark brown soft sugar FOR SERVING 8 corn & wheat tortillas 2 limes, cut into wedges extra virgin olive oil, for drizzling 1 large ripe avocado, stoned, peeled and sliced just before serving thick yogurt or soured cream
1 Heat the oil in a large frying pan and add the onions and peppers. Season and cook on a high heat for 8 mins or until just tender and starting to char. Add the coriander stems, fry for 1 min, stirring, then add the spices and cook for 2 mins more, stirring, until fragrant. 2 Tip in the tofu, beans, tomatoes and sugar, and cook for 5 mins until the sauce is quite dry and the tofu is heated through. Warm the tortillas following pack instructions. 3 Taste the sauce for seasoning and add the coriander leaves and a squeeze of lime. Drizzle over a little extra virgin olive oil and serve with the tortillas, lime halves, avocado and yogurt or soured cream on the side. PER SERVING energy 567 kcals • fat 16g • saturates 3g • carbs 78g • sugars 20g • fibre 15g • protein 19g • salt 1.3g
HOW TOFU IS MADE Dried soya beans are ground and then boiled – this makes soya milk, which is drained off into vats. Coagulants are then added and the milk forms curds, which are squeezed into blocks to make frm tofu. Silken tofu is pressed less, giving a smoother texture. It can now be smoked, favoured, fermented (which is an acquired taste) or left plain.
PRESSING YOUR TOFU This will transform the tofu from a spongy block to one that’s far creamier and solid. It will slice easily, absorb marinades and won’t break up when you cut it. n Drain the liquid. Fold a clean tea towel over a few times, then wrap it around the tofu and set it on a large plate with a lip. n Put something heavy such as a frying pan on top, weight it down further with cans and jars, and leave for 30 mins. The tofu will be about two-thirds its original thickness, and up to 100ml water will have been removed. n You can do this the day before you’re going to use it, then keep the tofu in an airtight container in the fridge.
May 2015
fa m ily
fav ou rite
In season
n aria t e g Ve
May 2015
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ion s r ve
a of
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In season
Here’s my formula for fluffy, thick pancakes without gluten, eggs or dairy. They do taste a bit different, of course – without eggs, white flour and milk they’re bound to – but drenched with maple syrup and stacked with fruit and toasty nuts, they make a tempting option if you’re vegan or going ‘free-from’. EASY
GLUTEN FREE
SERVES 4-6 PREP 10 mins COOK 10 mins
50g/2oz Brazil nuts sliced banana, berries and maple syrup or honey, to serve FOR THE BATTER 349g pack frm silken tofu 2 tsp vanilla extract 2 tsp lemon juice 400ml/14f oz unsweetened almond milk 1 tbsp vegetable oil, plus 1-2 tbsp extra for frying 250g/9oz buckwheat four 4 tbsp light muscovado sugar 1 1/2 tsp ground mixed spice 1 tbsp gluten-free baking powder
1 Heat oven to 180C/160C fan/gas 4. Scatter the nuts over a baking tray and cook for 5 mins until toasty and golden. Leave to cool, then chop. Turn the oven down low if you want to keep the whole batch of pancakes warm, although I think they are best enjoyed straight from the pan. 2 Put the tofu, vanilla, lemon juice and 200ml of the milk into a deep jug or bowl. Using a stick blender, blend together until liquid, then keep going until it turns thick and smooth, like yogurt. Stir in the oil and the rest of the milk to loosen the mixture. 3 Put the dry ingredients and 1 tsp salt in a large bowl and whisk to combine and aerate. If there are any lumps in the sugar, squish them with your fngers. Make a well in the centre, pour in the tofu mix and bring together to make a thick batter. 4 Heat a large (ideally non-stick) frying pan and swirl around 1 tsp oil. For golden pancakes
that don’t stick, the pan and oil should be hot enough to get an enthusiastic sizzle on contact with the batter, but not so hot that it scorches it. Test a drop. 5 Using a ladle or large serving spoon, drop in 3 spoonfuls of batter, easing it out gently in the pan to make pancakes that are about 12cm across. Cook for 2 mins on the frst side or until bubbles pop over most of the surface. Loosen with a palette knife, then fip over the pancakes and cook for 1 min more or until puffed up and frm. Transfer to the oven to keep warm, if you need to, but don’t stack the pancakes too closely. Cook the rest of the batter, using a little more oil each time. Serve warm with sliced banana, berries, toasted nuts and a good drizzle of maple syrup or honey. PER SERVING (6) energy 343 kcals • fat 14g • saturates 2g • carbs 41g • sugars 15g • fibre 5g • protein 11g • salt 1.6g
Food styling JANE HORNBY| Styling VICTORIA ALLEN
Tofu brekkie pancakes
s! eliciou Gluten-free, dairy-free, vegan – and d
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May 2015
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Switzerland. Naturally.
Cheeses from Switzerland. www.cheesesfromswitzerland.com
Spring chicken! It’s the nation’s favourite, and we’re always looking for new ways to cook it, whether for a family supper or to share with friends. These exciting ideas for chicken deserve a place on your table this month Recipes BARNEY DESMAZERY and CHELSIE COLLINS Photographs DAVID MUNNS
Spring roast chicken
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In season
es
a
ot One-p
May 2015
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ith nw e k chic
& zo i r o ch
w ne
to ta o p
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Spring roast chicken
chicken only SERVES 4 PREP 15 mins COOK 40-50 mins
8 chicken thighs, on the bone, skin on 2 tbsp olive oil 1 lemon, zested and cut into wedges 4 shallots, thickly sliced 4 rosemary sprigs small pack tarragon 450g/1lb asparagus spears, trimmed 2 courgettes, thickly sliced on the diagonal 250g/9oz peas (preferably fresh, not frozen) 100g/4oz feta, crumbled
1 Heat oven to 200C/180C fan/gas 6. Put the chicken thighs in a large shallow roasting tin, season and toss with the olive oil, lemon zest and wedges, shallots, rosemary and tarragon. Arrange the chicken thighs, skin-side up, and roast for 40-50 mins until the skin is crisp and golden. 2 Meanwhile, bring a large pan of water to the boil and cook the asparagus for 3 mins or until tender, adding the courgettes and peas for the fnal minute. 3 Drain the vegetables and toss in with the chicken, coating well with the cooking juices. Crumble over the feta and serve.
What do the labels mean? Standards stipulate that chickens must be left to roam freely during daylight hours and eat organically produced feed. They must have access to shelter and shade, be kept in small focks, and reared to at least 81 days (soilassociation.org).
Red Tractor A food assurance scheme covering production standards throughout the food supply chain. It ensures that the food you buy is from the UK, traceable, safe to eat and has been produced responsibly from farm to pack (redtractor.org.uk).
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There is still something special about bringing a whole bird to the table and carving off everyone’s favourite cuts. This easy one-pot chicken is given a Spanish accent from another of the nation’s favourite ingredients, chorizo. EASY
OF 5 GLUTEN EASY FOLATE FIBRE VIT C IRON 2 A DAY FREE
PER SERVING energy 639 kcals • fat 40g • saturates 12g • carbs 12g • sugars 6g • fibre 8g • protein 55g • salt 1.3g
Organic
One-pot chicken with chorizo & new potatoes
Free-range Chickens must have daytime access to a ranging area for at least half their life. Not all free-range farms have the same standards – some meet the minimum requirements, while others have much higher welfare standards (gov.uk/poultry-welfare-guidance-on-the-farm).
SERVES 4 PREP 15 mins plus resting COOK 1 hr 40 mins
1 whole chicken (about 1.5kg/3lb 5oz), the best quality you can afford small knob of butter 1 tbsp olive oil 1 /2 lemon 1 bay leaf 1 thyme sprig 300g/11oz chorizo ring, thickly sliced 700g/1lb 9oz new potatoes, halved (or quartered if really large) 12 garlic cloves, left whole and unpeeled large splash of dry Sherry 150ml/1/4pt chicken stock handful parsley leaves, roughly chopped
1 Heat oven to 180C/160C fan/gas 4 and season the chicken all over. In a large fameproof casserole dish with a lid, heat the butter and oil until sizzling, then spend a good 15 mins slowly browning the chicken well all over. Remove from the dish and pop the lemon, bay and thyme in the cavity. Set aside. 2 Pour most of the oil out of the dish, place back on the heat and sizzle the chorizo for 5 mins until it starts to release its red oil. Throw in the potatoes, sizzle them until they start to colour, then add the garlic. Splash in the Sherry, let it bubble down a little, then pour in the stock. 3 Nestle the chicken, breast-side up, among the potatoes, place the lid on the dish and cook in the oven for 1 hr 15 mins or until the legs easily come away from the body. Leave the chicken to rest for 10 mins, then scatter with parsley and serve straight from the dish. PER SERVING energy 791 kcals • fat 44g • saturates 15g • carbs 32g • sugars 5g • fibre 3g • protein 65g • salt 1.6g
Freedom Food A farm animal welfare scheme set up by the RSPCA. Among other requirements, its standards ensure that animals are given a nourishing diet, and a comfortable and stimulating environment (freedomfood.co.uk).
bbcgoodfood.com
May 2015
Food styling JANE HORNBY | Styling VICTORIA ALLEN
It’s easy to understand why we love chicken so much. It’s succulent, versatile, and as delicious roasted with a simple seasoning as it is paired with strong, punchy favours. But that doesn’t mean it should fnd its way into every meal you cook – I’ve changed the way I buy and eat chicken in the past few years, and we now have it less often. When I do cook chicken for my family, we make an occasion of it and splash out on the best quality – which is also the tastiest – we can afford.
If you want to buy the best-quality chicken pieces at the cheapest price, opt for thigh portions. They cost less than breast meat and are better suited for roasting in dishes like this – the deeper-flavoured dark meat doesn’t dry out, and you get a texture contrast from the irresistibly crispy skin.
In season Korean fried chicken burgers The popularity of Korean food seems to grow by the month, and with it comes the recipe for Korean fried chicken (or the new KFC, as it’s being called). The chicken is addictive on its own, but even more so when it’s turned into a tempting burger – as many street food stalls have done. Double-frying the chicken may seem like a faff, and isn’t essential, but it does give you that authentically ultra-crisp skin. 1 OF 5 A LITTLE EFFORT VIT C A DAY
MAKES 4 PREP 30 mins COOK 20 mins
FOR THE CHICKEN 4 boneless, skinless chicken thigh fllets large piece ginger, fnely grated 100g/4oz cornfour vegetable oil, for frying
FOR THE SAUCE 6 tbsp dark brown sugar 2 tbsp Korean chilli paste (gochujang) – see tip, right 2 tbsp soy sauce 2 large garlic cloves, crushed small piece ginger, grated 2 tsp sesame oil FOR THE KIMCHI-STYLE SLAW 1 /2 white cabbage, fnely sliced 1 mooli, shredded into thin strips 4 spring onions, fnely sliced small piece ginger, grated 1 tsp golden caster sugar 1 garlic clove, crushed 2 tbsp mayonnaise pinch of hot chilli powder TO SERVE 1 Little Gem lettuce, divided into leaves 4 brioche or sesame seed burger buns, split and lightly toasted
1 Make the slaw by combining all the ingredients together. Taste and add more chilli powder, if you like. Chill in the fridge. 2 To make the sauce, put all the ingredients in a saucepan and simmer gently until syrupy. Take off the heat and set aside. 3 Cut away any fatty excess from the chicken thighs, then season with salt, pepper and the grated ginger. Toss the chicken with the cornfour until completely coated. 4 Heat about 2cm of vegetable oil in a large frying pan. Fry the chicken thighs for 4-5 mins each side until crisp. Remove from the oil onto kitchen paper and leave to cool slightly for 2 mins. Then re-fry in the hot oil until ultra-crisp and you can hear it crackle. Remove to kitchen paper to drain. 5 Reheat the sauce. Build your burgers by placing some lettuce and kimchi slaw on the base of a bun, top with the crispy chicken and drizzle over the sticky sauce.
Buying chilli paste Korean chilli paste (gochujang) is a spicy, dark red paste with a rich, slightly sweet favour. It’s perfect for marinating chicken and pork, and can be added to vegetables, raw salads and soups. You can buy it from souschef.co.uk or specialist Asian supermarkets.
PER BURGER energy 415 kcals • fat 20g • saturates 4g • carbs 38g • sugars 35g • fibre 2g • protein 19g • salt 1.8g
ON TREND
Korean favours
The new must-try burger!
May 2015
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OF COURS E YOU’LL FIND MUSTARDS THAT AREN’T FILTERED UP TO NINE TIMES. THEY JUST WON’T HAVE OUR LABEL ON THEM. The way we make it says it all.
&
In season
Seasonal local
JAMIE OLIVER’S NOTEBOOK
The chef, restaurateur and campaigner reveals his favourite places to shop and eat in the UK and around the world
Interview HOLLY BROOKE-SMITH | Photographs DAVID LOFTUS, PER-ANDERS JÖRGENSEN, SIMON BURT | The new Jamie Oliver by Tefal hard anodised range of titanium non-stick pans is available from John Lewis, starting at around £50
Favourite pub Run by Derek Dammann, a dear friend , who is also an incredible cook, Maison Publique is devoted to celebrating the produce of French Canada. It’s a humble, British-style pub in Montreal. Everything from prepping to curing to fermenting is done on site, and in the two years it’s been open, it has become one of the most talked-about restaurants in Canada. I’m so proud of Derek – if you’re ever out there, it’s worth a visit (maisonpublique.com).
Ruth Rogers at The River Café
Ultimate restaurant When your wallet allows, go and dine at the legendary institution that is The River Café in London, and enjoy the food prepared by the lovely Ruth Rogers and her team (rivercafe.co.uk). Unbeatable product Fontodi olive oil, from Chianti Firenze, is probably one of the best on the planet. It’s produced around November each year and is amazing used to fnish grilled meats, salads, ragus, soups and stews. You can buy it by the case from Liberty Wines to last you throughout the year, which is the way Italians do it (fontodi.com; libertywines.co.uk).
May 2015
Personal highlight We’ve come a long way since I set up Fifteen in London in 2002. Thanks to Jon Rotheram – who’s just moved on to pastures new – the food now has a really amazing modern British vibe, and also incorporates a few Swedish techniques, like curing, which I’m loving. The new head chef Robbin Holmgren is doing a fne job carrying this forward (fifteen.net). Local hero Trullo is the loveliest restaurant, about a mile up the road from Fifteen, at Highbury Corner, in north London. It’s owned and run by one of my ex-graduates, Tim Siadatan, and his co-owner, Jordan Frieda. Tim is a really passionate, capable, authentic Italian cook. Their daily handmade pasta is unbelievable. I am super-proud of Tim (trullorestaurant.com). Best for browsing No matter what I’ve been up to over the past 20 years in London, Notting Hill’s Books for Cooks has always been there, doing what it does best. It’s a cute, intimate bookshop full of the best cookbooks on the planet. All the books are packed into the shop like a tin of sardines – heavenly (booksforcooks.com). Trendsetter James Lyle, an exciting young chef, is doing an amazing job at his restaurant, Lyle’s, in Shoreditch. He’s put everything on the line to create this fantastic space. You’ll be blown away by his incredible food – it’s some of the highest-calibre cooking in the city. Everything is impeccably foraged or sourced. It’s ridiculously good value too. I’d go as far as to say that this dude is ahead of his time (lyleslondon.com). Continental gem Frenchie is the nickname I gave to my old head chef at Fifteen. Greg Marchand went on to set up Frenchie restaurant in Paris in 2009. He’s a lovely French boy and is really mixing things up in Paris. From super-rustic food to delicate and unusual combinations you wouldn’t fnd in a typical Parisian restaurant, he’s a really amazing example of a modern-day French chef (frenchie-restaurant.com).
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Adam, Matt, Lucy and Mat of Cobble Lane Cured (left); quail’s eggs at Lyle’s (above)
We’ve come a long way since I set up Fifteen in London in 2002. The food now has a really amazing modern British vibe, and also incorporates a few Swedish techniques
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Standout producer Adam, Mat and Matt, who set up Cobbled Lane Cured, are enthusiastic, entrepreneurial butchers selling cured meat in north London. They source only higher-welfare animals and, last time I asked, they were creating more than 20 different cured meats. They’ve got British, Polish, German and Italian completely covered. Find them at the weekend near their Islington base, or at various other London markets (cobblelanecured.com).
Fifteen Cornwall; Fontodi olive oil (right)
Chefs Harry Cummins and Greg Marchand of Frenchie
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OF THE BEST…
Sheep’s milk products Sheep’s milk is growing in popularity for those who can’t digest cow’s milk products
Natural yogurt Woodlands Organic Sheep Milk Natural Yoghurt, 450g, £2, available from Waitrose and Sainsbury’s (woodlandsdairy.co.uk) This is produced on a family farm and, when frst opened, it has a sliver of rich cream. Woodlands also produces skimmed sheep’s milk powder.
Wensleydale cheese Sheep’s Milk Wensleydale, 200g, £4.95 (wensleydale.co.uk) Smooth and creamy, with a clean milky favour, this cheese is crafted in Hawes, North Yorkshire. Today, most Wensleydale cheeses are made from cow’s milk, but the frst cheeses made in Wensleydale by Cistercian monks back in 1150 used sheep’s milk. Try it with fruitcake and apple slices.
Ewe’s milk cheese Parlick Fell Pure Sheep’s Milk Cheese, 150g, £2.25, available at Sainsbury’s (grandma-singletons.co.uk) This ewe’s milk cheese, with a brilliant white colour, has a semi-soft, crumbly texture and tangy favour. It’s named after a fell close to the dairy where it’s made, near Preston, Lancashire.
COMMUNITY HERO Jack Clarke, a marine biologist, became so concerned about safeguarding marine environments, as well as the livelihoods of small-scale fshermen, that he helped to set up a ‘fsh box’ scheme in Brighton – supplying subscribers with fsh rather than vegetables. The non-proft co-op, Catchbox (catchbox.coop), provides households with regular boxes of fsh caught locally and sustainably. Last year, Jack returned to his native London to set up a bigger fsh-box scheme, which he runs with friend Theresa Douthwright (above). The scheme – the frst in London - is called SoleShare and, like Catchbox, provides subscribers with
A weekend to savour Jersey bursts with places to enjoy a superb meal or a perfect pint. Michelin-starred places, where the oysters are so fresh, you can still taste the sea. Coastal places, where gastropubs and trendy cafés serve crab sandwiches so full, you’ll need the miles of breathtaking beaches to walk them of! Country places deep in the island’s lush interior, where cosy inns serving fresh-from-the-feld produce are tucked away. And stylish places where, afer a day exploring, you can simply relax and enjoy a soothing spa treatment. Add a mild climate, easy travel by air or sea from the UK and great-value ofers, and you’ve discovered Jersey.
jersey.com
regular boxes of fresh fsh that they collect from pick-up points across London. SoleShare buys directly from a handful of fshermen on the south coast who use sustainable methods of fshing – so no trawlers. ‘The great thing about buying fsh directly from the fsherman is that it’s usually caught the same day, so is really fresh, plus we can offer competitive prices as there’s no middle man,’ says Jack. It’s pot luck what lands in your fsh box, but SoleShare provides recipe cards for more unfamiliar fsh. In its frst year, it has sold more than a ton of sustainably caught British fsh to more than 180 subscribers, and the numbers are growing fast (soleshare.net).
In season
Veg box challenge
Inspiration to help you make the most of your seasonal produce Watercress This is available all year round, but British-grown watercress is best between April and October. It has a pungent, slightly bitter favour and is highly nutritious: rich in vitamin C, calcium, iron and folic acid. As watercress perishes quickly, it is best kept in the fridge with its stems in a container of water, covered with kitchen paper. Wash thoroughly before use and trim off any tough stems. Pesto Whizz 1 crushed garlic clove with 100g watercress in the bowl of a food processor. Add a handful each grated Parmesan and pine nuts, 1 tbsp lemon juice, some seasoning and 50ml extra virgin olive oil. Blitz until smooth and serve stirred through pasta or mashed potato. Raw juice Blend 85g watercress with 150ml fresh orange juice and 150ml carrot juice. Add a few cubes of ice and drink straight away. Citrus salad Toss watercress with some sliced cucumber and a handful faked, toasted almonds. Add orange segments and some hot smoked trout. Drizzle with extra virgin olive oil and season with pepper.
Baby carrots
Radishes UK-grown radishes have a punchy, peppery favour and a crisp, crunchy texture. They’re at their best between April and September, with small, round red radishes the most popular. French breakfast radishes are longer, with a milder, sweeter favour, and particularly good for dipping. When buying, choose frmskinned red radishes – softer ones will have spongy middles. To ensure crispness, soak the radishes in ice-cold water for an hour before serving, then chop off the green end, slice off the root and serve whole, sliced or chopped. Best eaten raw or very lightly cooked.
Compiled by CLARE HARGREAVES | Veg box recipes CHELSIE COLLINS | Photographs ELEANOR CHURCH, GETTY IMAGES
Classic Trim the leaves off French breakfast radishes and serve with roomtemperature unsalted butter and sea salt fakes. Minted yogurt sauce Mix Greek yogurt with a little lemon juice and lots of chopped mint. Add roughly chopped radishes and season. Serve with spiced lamb or chicken for a creamy, cooling fnish. Avocado on toast Toast brown bread, spread smashed avocado on top and add thin slices of raw radishes for a peppery kick.
These bright orange beauties are delicious through spring and summer. Their sweet, earthy favour and crisp texture makes them perfect for eating raw. Generally, the more intense the colour, the sweeter the carrots. Keep unwashed carrots for up to two weeks in a bag in a cool, dark place. Wash and scrub before use. Honey-glazed Boil baby carrots for 2-3 mins until starting to soften, then drain. Heat 1 tbsp butter in a pan until foaming, add 1 tbsp clear honey and bubble for 1 min. Toss the carrots in the sticky glaze, season and serve. Roasted vegetable salad Put 140g trimmed baby carrots and 140g trimmed asparagus in a roasting tin. Toss with 1 tbsp olive oil, a few thyme sprigs, 2 crushed garlic cloves and some seasoning. Roast at 200C/ 180C fan/gas 6 for 20 mins or until cooked. Empty a 200g pouch of cooked quinoa into the roasting in, add some crumbled feta and handfuls chopped parsley, toss everything together and serve. Crunchy crudités Wash and scrub baby carrots, trimming the green leaves and serving with celery sticks, cucumber sticks and radishes. Make a blue cheese by combining 200g soured cream, 75g mayonnaise, 100g crumbled blue cheese, 1/2 tbsp white wine vinegar and a drop of Worcestershire sauce.
oil to leaves and sprouting tops. The oil is used in all his restaurants, and his Potato mash with Hillfarm oil is superb. ‘The favour of Hillfarm oil has an appealing freshness and, of course, that fantastically bright yellow colour, so evocative of the felds of rapeseed fowers that we see in the British countryside each summer,’ says Mark. Hillfarm rapeseed oil Sam and Clare (pictured with their children) are When farmers Sam and Clare Fairs started turning evangelical about the health benefits of their sunny their rapeseed into a premium culinary oil in 2004, oil – it has half the saturated fat and 11 times the the idea of using extra virgin rapeseed oil rather omega-3 of olive oil. It also has a higher burn point, than olive oil was still a novelty. A decade on, many making it ideal for dishes such as roast potatoes. Hillfarm also produces mayonnaise using its chefs and home cooks are hooked on its unusual rapeseed oil, and last year launched a hand wash nutty favour, nutritional profle and versatility. and hand cream, making the most of rapeseed One fan is chef Mark Hix, who sometimes oil’s high omega-3, omega-6 and vitamin E content cooks entire meals with each course showcasing to soothe and rehydrate hands (hillfarmoils.com). different parts of the rape plant, from seeds and
May 2015
bbcgoodfood.com
Dates for your diary 1-9 May Bristol Food Connections More than 130 events – the fagship food festival for Bristol’s year as European Green Capital, with live debates and talks hosted by BBC Radio 4 (bristolfoodconnections.com) 9-10 May Ludlow Spring Food Festival, Shropshire (ludlowspringfestival.co.uk) 15-17 May Cromer & Sheringham Crab & Lobster Festival, Norfolk (crabandlobsterfestival.co.uk) 16 May Witney Festival of Food and Drink, Oxfordshire (witneyfoodfestival.co.uk) 16-17 May Marlborough Food & Drink Festival, Wiltshire (marlborough-food-festival. garden-events.com) 23-25 May Sheffeld Food Festival (sheffieldfoodfestival.org)
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Good reads
‘Our Big Lunch unites the community’ Jane Marsden (above right) shares a plot with her best friend, Heather (above left), on the Gilroy Road Community Allotments in West Kirby, on the Wirral. The site holds an annual Big Lunch (thebiglunch.com), which is part of the Eden Project’s nationwide campaign. ‘Our site was set up four years ago by our chairman, Richard Hill, a local police inspector, as the council’s waiting list was so long. We built 64 allotments on a disused horse paddock, which had to be cleared of 12ft brambles. Now it is shared by local groups, including schools, and a project that employs adults with learning diffculties.’ What is the Big Lunch? It’s our biggest gathering of the year, and has grown from a small event with a ‘bring and share’ table to a gathering of well over 100 plot-holders, neighbours, police, youth workers and many others. We lay out lots of food, including very locally grown salads and
We’re growing
together As well as being a source of fruit, veg and herbs, allotments and community gardens can provide an escape from the busy world. We meet people who have created their own food lovers’ haven Feature HOLLY BROOKE-SMITH
May 2015
bbcgoodfood.com
fruity puds. It’s amazing what you can do with a courgette glut! How does it work? It’s perfect for having fun with your neighbours and helping to build stronger neighbourhoods. We also run a community café at the farmers’ market – and this extra income means we can buy gazebos, tablecloths and even aprons with slogans on. All the other food and offerings come from our visitors, which includes plenty of produce from the plots. What are you planning next? We’d like to build a community classroom – possibly from straw bales – and hold ‘plot-to-plate’ sessions for schools, local groups and residents.
‘We cook curries in the allotment shed’ Ben Locker (below right) has an allotment in Colchester, Essex, where he runs a regular curry club. ‘My friend Darius and I both got our frst allotments last year. We’re learning as we go along, but it’s going well.’ What is a curry club? I got the idea from a TV show I saw years ago about some Sikh friends who made curry in their allotment shed. I thought it was a wonderful idea. So we got some friends together for the frst time on New Year’s Eve, and it was such fun that we decided to make it a regular event. What happens? We take it in turns to cook on the gas stove in my shed, and invite friends from our community to come along. Why do you love it? It’s great to share our food, introduce the children to freshly grown ingredients, catch up with friends and have a few drinks. We’re hoping to grow more of the curry ingredients over the coming year, so that the food really does have the true favour of our allotments.
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Good reads ‘The Allotment Soup is our harvest festival’ Liz Searle (far right) has helped to run Sheffeld’s annual Allotment Soup for the past four years. It’s a day of food, arts, music and gardening, held on a different site in the city each year. ‘It’s a really special event,’ she says, ‘and reminds me of the harvest festivals of my childhood.’
year we even made the food on site with a burner and boiler, and we had baked potatoes round a bonfre at the end. It was very hearty and satisfying. Why is it so popular? Because there are lots of groups working together and volunteering. And we all learn something – the artists learn about growing, the plot-holders get to see some art, and the public gets the best of both!
What happens? It’s a chance for people to open up their plots, meet their neighbours, wander round each other’s plots and discuss what they’ve grown – as well as seeing some fantastic art. There’s all sorts of activities, such as willow sculpture and Raku fring – a Japanese pottery technique. What do you eat? The main meal is a soup, made with a mix of vegetables from everyone’s plots. Last
‘Our pupils love choosing what to plant’
Lucy Mitchell is a community project worker at the Golden Hill Community Garden in Bristol (thegoldenhillcommunitygarden.com). She and a team of volunteers built a clay pizza oven – in the shape of a frog – in 2013, which has become a central part of the garden. ‘We love our giant pizza frog,’ says Lucy. ‘He always makes people smile.’ How did you make the frog? He is made of clay mixed with straw and sand – it was a lot of mess! We dug barrowloads of clay from our pond, took out the stones, mixed one lot with sand and one lot with straw with our feet and, over two sunny weekends, built him out of clay bricks resting on a dome made of sand. Do you have regular pizza parties? We fre up the frog every Tuesday during the holidays for our ‘Golden Adventure’ activity days. Kids help to get the fre going, then make their own
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pizzas. Each one takes around three minutes to cook, so they have to tell the pizza chef a story while they wait. They all agree that the best-tasting pizzas are the ones you make yourself and come out of giant frog! Are the toppings made from your allotment produce? We make sauce with our own garlic, onions, tomatoes, basil and other herbs – it’s delicious and very satisfying to have grown all the ingredients. Enterprising folk have also added peas, carrots or even blackberries and apples. On the side we have our delicious allotment salad, full of edible fowers – cornfowers, borage, French marigolds and nasturtiums. What does the frog add to your community? He’s just another lovely feature of our beautiful community garden. A pizza for lunch followed by a slice of melon, fresh from the polytunnel – community gardening doesn’t get much better.
How does it work? The children look after the garden. Our ethos is to try to leave it in a better state than we found it. Classes use the garden for storytelling, art, science, drama and music
lessons. The children love the Easter treasure hunt, and at Christmas we sang carols, drank hot chocolate and told stories by torchlight. What do you grow? The children choose what they want to plant. This year we’re going to give quinoa a try. Our mini-orchard includes apples, plums and pears, plus there’s raspberries, strawberries, tomatoes, potatoes, beans, beetroot, spinach, pumpkins, sprouts, caulifower, chard, mint, lavender, lemon balm, sage and rosemary. Do you eat it all? Sometimes we cook what we grow with the pupils and sell the produce to parents – the children calculate the costs of the different items. We’ve also sold produce through the local health food shop.
FEEL INSPIRED TO GET GROWING? You could contact your local council to discover gardening projects on your doorstep, or get in touch with these organisations: ■ The National ■ Federation of ■ RHS Campaign Allotment Society City Farms & for School Gardening (nsalg.org.uk) Community Gardens (apps.rhs.org.uk/ Helps gardeners acquire, (farmgarden.org.uk) schoolgardening) maintain and manage A charity supporting The campaign aims to allotments across the urban gardening spaces, support and provide country. Find your nearest including school- and resources to school plot on the website. community-run plots. gardens across the UK.
bbcgoodfood.com
May 2015
Allotments photograph ANDREW MONTGOMERY
‘We built a clay pizza oven in the garden’
Christ Church CE Primary School in Battersea, London, acquired a disused patch of land in 2010. With the help of the Royal Horticultural Society and the nearby church, they transformed it into an allotment. Gardening teacher Susan Perry explains: ‘So far, we’ve created raised vegetable beds, worked with the London Orchard Project to plant fruit trees, and planted wildfowers with other pupils from a neighbouring school.’
On test
Do the twist!
The spiralizer is probably the most talked-about gadget of the year, so we tested 12 models to fnd our best buys. Plus, how to get the most from this clever piece of kitchen kit OUR TOP PICK l
Best all-rounder with a handle which turns easily. We like the uniform thickness of the ‘courgetti’, and it managed a large potato, as well as a more delicate cucumber. You are left with a thin central tube of unsliced veg, but this can still be cooked.
THE PRO CHOICE
OXO Good Grips Hand-Held Julienne Slicer, £14, houseoffraser.co.uk
SIMPLE & SAFE l
Although not technically a spiralizer, we really love this julienne slicer. It feels very safe, thanks to the hand guard, and gives good results with all sorts of soft and hard veg. Of course, your strips will only ever be as long as the vegetable itself – but it’s quick, easy and makes excellent shoestring fries.
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Handheld spiralizers come in all shapes and sizes, but this pleasing little gadget makes very good wide-ribboned cucumber and will also work on courgettes – but not on hard veg. Perfect if you just want to spiralize occasionally.
l
The priciest of the machines we tested, and also the best at shredding sweet potato. The blades are incredibly sharp, so it’s not child-friendly. However, if you want to get a lot of use out of your spiralizer, this is the one to choose. The entire vegetable is grated, with no waste.
HANDY SIZE
Cucumbo, £9.99, Lakeland
Lurch Attila Hildemann Edition, £37.79, ukjuicers.com
Benriner Cook Help Turning Vegetable Slicer, £59.95, ukjuicers.com
l
Why spiralize?
Courgetti, slaw & more
Originally prized by vegetarians, vegans and raw foodists, spiralizers make easy work of preparing veg. The results are appealing, good for you and fun. If you want to cut back on carbs and eat more fruit and veg, this could transform the way you cook. If you spiralize courgettes and eat ‘courgetti’ instead of spaghetti, you’ll be saving yourself around 300 kcals per 100g (uncooked food), plus the cooking time is considerably shorter too. Most models work in a similar way, and creating oodles of healthy ‘noodles’ is a satisfyingly simple process. Attach raw fruit or vegetables to the teeth, then turn the handle to push the vegetable through your choice of blade to create vegetable ribbons or noodles.
‘Some vegetables were born to be spiralized,’ says our Food editor, Cassie Best. ‘The frm texture of root vegetables makes them perfect, but you can also spiralize squash, cucumbers or pumpkin, and frmer fruits such as apples and pears. ‘We love spiralizers in the Test Kitchen. Once you start experimenting with different vegetables, you’ll want to add elegant strands of veg to all your meals. They make salads look particularly pretty.’ ■ Courgettes Use a spiralizer’s thin ‘noodle’
Testing HOLLY BROOKE-SMITH
attachment to create long twirls of pasta-like courgetti. Simply boil or steam the spiralized courgette for 20 seconds, then top with
Bolognese sauce or stir through pesto and some prawns. See our gluten-free Bolognese with spiralized sweet potato at bbcgoodfood.com. ■ Carrots Raw ribbons, made with the slicing blade, add texture and crunch to a salad or slaw. Or you can stir-fry the carrot ribbons for a few minutes with garlic and coconut oil for a healthy side dish. ■ Sweet potato Use the thicker noodle blade to create curly fries, tossed in a little oil and baked until crisp. ■ Apples Coleslaw will never be the same again! Add texture with apple noodles – just make sure you toss them in lemon juice as soon as you’ve spiralized them to prevent them from browning.
bbcgoodfood.com
May 2015
greener kitchen 25 ways to a
How to cut down on cling flm, save money on fuel and get the best from your freezer – simple tips to keep your kitchen super-effcient and eco-friendly Feature XANTHE CLAY Illustrations LAUREN RADLEY
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bbcgoodfood.com
May 2015
Good reads
6
1
Use your electric kettle to boil water for cooking veg Kettles convert 80 per cent of their power into heat – twice what a pan on the hob can manage. The Energy Saving Trust (energysavingtrust.org.uk) calculates that three-quarters of us boil more water than we need – in a year, this is enough electricity to cover half the country’s street-lighting bill. For a cup of tea, try flling your mug from the tap and pouring it into the kettle.
Do you really need all that cling flm? Stick to reusable plastic boxes, or use a plate to cover a bowl. For half-used fruit and vegetables, Food Huggers – fexible silicone lids that ‘hug’ the leftovers – work brilliantly (£9.99 for 4, lakeland.co.uk).
2
Use microfbre cloths They reduce the need for harsh sprays but need frequent washing – just throw them in the machine with your regular load.
3
Don’t pour fat down the kitchen plug hole Fat gathers in sewers to form a solid mass, clogging them up and costing millions to dispose of. Closer to home, oil around outside drains attracts rats. Small dribbles can be scraped into the food recycling bin, but for larger amounts the advice is confusing, so it’s best to check your local council’s policy online – or give up deep-fat frying!
4 5
Switch from halogen bulbs to LED lighting It’s a big initial investment, however it should repay itself in lower energy bills within fve years. Faulty seals on oven and fridge doors waste energy They can also mean patchy performances from the appliances. Check the seals by closing the door on a sheet of paper – if it falls down, or you can slide it out without tugging, then the seal needs changing.
7
Chest freezers are more effcient than front-opening freezers They use up to 25 per cent less power. If it must be front opening, a freezer on the bottom is more effcient than a top freezer or a side-by-side fridge-freezer. Cool dishes to room temperature before putting them in the fridge because hot food will force the fridge to use more power to keep cool. Equally, thawing food in the fridge isn’t just safer, it’s more fuel-effcient, and the cold air from the frozen food helps to keep the fridge itself cold. Frost-free freezers can be up 40 per cent less effcient than ones you must defrost yourself, providing you defrost regularly – an iced-up freezer isn’t effcient either.
9
Grow your own Even if it’s just a few herbs on the windowsill, growing your own produce is the ultimate in kitchen karma – zero food miles, plus nothing tastes better!
8
Use your food-waste recycling bin Food that goes into regular landfll releases methane, a powerful greenhouse gas. Also, think twice about buying compostable bin liners, as they have to be manufactured and transported, so they have a carbon footprint too. Newspaper does the job just as well.
May 2015
10
Turn off your oven 15 minutes early For slow-cook dishes such as stews and casseroles, it’s fne to turn the oven off 15 minutes before the end of cooking time. The dish will complete its cooking perfectly well, as long as you keep the oven door shut.
bbcgoodfood.com
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11 12
Use the right size ring for your pan on the hob Too large and you’re just pumping heat (and power) into the air. Vow to only run the dishwasher on a full load And choose a shorter wash without a drying cycle. Just open the door when it is fnished – the hot fnal rinse will ensure everything steam-dries fast anyway.
13
A pressure cooker will cut down the energy used to cook pulses and casseroles For inspiration, try Good Food: Pressure Cooker Favourites (£3.99, BBC Books, bbcshop.com).
14
Try not to waste food If we all stopped throwing out food that could have been eaten, it would have the same impact on carbon dioxide emissions as taking one in four cars off UK roads. So shop more frequently, buy smaller quantities and only cook what you need.
15
Non-stick pans rarely keep their quality beyond a few years, whatever the guarantee Stainless steel, anodised aluminium and cast iron last a lifetime – although you do need to follow the cleaning instructions. With a little care, you’ll be passing them on to your grandchildren!
16
Put a lid on it Covering pans while food cooks means you can lower the heat and the dish cooks more evenly. Perhaps surprisingly, it doesn’t stop food from browning nicely either.
17
Don’t buy bottled water We in the UK are privileged to have some of the bestquality water in the world coming out of our taps. Filter your tap water, if you prefer, chill it in a bottle and enjoy, happy in the knowledge that it hasn’t been driven hundreds, or even thousands, of miles in an air-polluting lorry.
18
Make stock It’s the best way to squeeze the last bit of goodness out of bones and vegetable scraps. An electric slow cooker uses a quarter of the energy of a hob and delivers beautiful, clear stock overnight, as well as great soups and stews.
Good reads
19
Buying a new cooker? Currently, gas is generally the greener choice, since most electricity is generated by burning gas or coal. However, the aim is for 30 per cent of electricity to come from renewable sources by 2020. Induction cookers may be the exception to the gas rule, as studies suggest that they are very effcient – more than 80 per cent heat transfer, compared to around 70 per cent for regular electric, and less than 50 per cent for gas. You may have to buy new pans though, as only fat-based steel or iron pans work on induction hobs.
20
Use a bit of good old elbow grease! Scrape surfaces, pans and dishes with a plastic dough scraper (or improvise with an old plastic loyalty card). Squeegee off the gunk into the compost bin, and wipe down with a damp cloth and a light spritz of water mixed with washing-up liquid – or (even greener) a sprinkle of bicarbonate of soda.
21
Get into the habit of carrying a reusable bag You’ll never need to get (or pay for) a carrier bag from a shop again. Incidentally, it’s a myth that paper bags are greener than plastic. They are heavier, so cost more to transport, and they’re rarely reusable. Plus, if it rains, you’re in trouble!
22
Wash out plastic food bags Hang them to dry and they can be reused at least a couple of times – the same goes for aluminium foil. Or buy economy bags that are thinner and use less plastic.
23
Reduce the cleaning fuids you use Diluted washing-up liquid is fne for most wiping down, with an occasional spray of something stronger for extreme cleaning.
24
Keep a foor cloth for spills and use less kitchen paper Buy recycled kitchen paper – check it says 100 per cent recycled, otherwise there may be only a small amount of recycled paper in them.
25
Use a washing-up bowl Avoid washing things under a running tap and you could save yourself up to £32 a year, according to the Energy Saving Trust. n For more tips on reusing, recycling and reducing food waste, visit wrap.org.uk
&
Food friendship Cooking and companionship have always been at the heart of the Women’s Institute. As the organisation celebrates its 100th anniversary, three members tell us why they joined and what they love to cook Feature JESSICA JOHNSON Portraits LOUISE HAYWOOD-SCHIEFER
E
xcellence in home cooking and baking is something the Women’s Institute has long been famed for, writes Jessica Johnson. In fact, food is the reason the movement was started back in 1915. A year into the First World War, the WI was formed to encourage rural women to get involved in growing and preserving food to help increase the supply of produce across the country. Inspired by the Women’s Institute in Canada, the frst WI in Britain was formed under the auspices of the Agricultural Organisation Society in Anglesey, Wales. Since then, its aims have broadened – it is now the largest voluntary women’s organisation in the UK, with more than 212,000 members.
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Now, as the organisation celebrates its centenary, new members – from city-based businesswomen to countrydwelling mums – continue to emulate and cherish the skills of a bygone era by signing up to a local Institute. Some join to take part in national campaigning, others to fll the gap on many forgotten skills, such as craft-making and baking, or simply to forge friendships. Many of these needs echo the same reasons previous generations joined before them. When I visited members, with photographer Louise, there was always a warm, culinary welcome. It was cheering to be greeted with a homemade cake, fan, pie or biscuit served up with a cup of tea. You know you’re in safe hands when it’s WI fare.
bbcgoodfood.com
May 2015
Good reads Mary Young, a keen bread baker, joined her local WI in Forest Gate, east London, to keep in touch with people I can’t remember the last time I bought a loaf! Since starting to bake using the sourdough method, I now make bread two or three times a week. I also bake for the WI cake stall at our local craft and farmers’ market, set up by two founder members of our WI. Members bring along all kinds of cakes, bakes, jams and chutneys, which are sold to raise funds for speakers and good causes. Many customers look forward to the frst Saturday in the month – with occasional food and music events, the market has added a new dimension to our community. I’m intrigued by the factors involved in making cakes to sell. I try to bear four things in mind with my offering: economy, quality, eye-appeal and equal-sized slices! Local shops offer a huge range of ingredients, such as fours – I’ve tried gram, barley, brown rice, chestnut, tapioca and coconut. I love experimenting with different fours and adding pumpkin, sunfower or faxseeds – or currants for a fruited loaf. Coconut oil can take the place of butter in some recipes, while fruit powders make brilliant natural food colourings. For my bread, I keep two starters on the go in glass jars in my fridge. They are simple mixes of four, water and wild yeasts, which are naturally present. My frst starter began three years ago and uses rye four only – it always becomes very active and bubbly. The second ‘grew’ out of the frst and is kept going with wholewheat or sometimes a malted wheat four. Each time I make a loaf, I take about half the starter from each jar and mix them together. I replenish each jar with more four and water. It’s great to see your bread developing – the longer the better for favour and digestibility, and there’s no need to buy yeast. I’m always reading about baking. The Handmade Loaf by Dan Lepard is inspiring, as are Yotam Ottolenghi’s recipes for fatbreads. These are my favourite breads – vehicles for all kinds of spicy deliciousness. Oh, and Chelsea buns! I think a lot of people underestimate what they can achieve with baking. Bread dough is a lot more forgiving than fddly pastry work. A batch of dough can be knocked up with a bread machine’s pizza programme in just 45 minutes. Breadmaking is also a great activity to do with kids – dough loves warm hands!
May 2015
‘I was touched to see so many WI members when I launched my market stall’
Laura Merriman has been a member of the Tea and Tarts WI in Huddersfeld, West Yorkshire, since it was set up fve years ago I’m quite a traditional person for someone my age. I’ve always knitted and baked, so it felt quite natural to join the WI. I wanted to make new friends and, having found it quite hard with two children, I needed something that was just for me. I now have so many friends I can call upon, plus it’s great fun to try new activities such as jive and belly dancing. One member is teaching me how to crochet. When I set up my business, it was touching to see so many WI members at my frst market stall. I got the idea for my business when I visited a shop called Posh Puds while on holiday in Anglesey three years ago. It was selling individual cheesecakes, so that everyone could have the favour they wanted. I’ve been making chocolate cheesecake for many years, using a family recipe passed on by my mum. I’ve made it so many times that the page in my recipe book is totally chocolate-stained. Cheesecake is always a crowd-pleaser at parties, weddings and at Christmas. You just put it in the freezer, then get it out when you need it. We all love cooking and baking, but I never thought that this could end up as a business. Last winter I bought my frst individual moulds and found an excuse to make cheesecakes to take to every party I attended.
bbcgoodfood.com
At the time I was working in a school, which was rewarding, but the stress was starting to take its toll. My resolution for 2013 was to sell individual cheesecakes at a local farmers’ market by the end of the year. It has been a long slog – there were tears over curdled cheese, I scoured the country to fnd the right moulds, and I’ve had to get my brain around costings and food hygiene. But I did it. In October 2013, I Love Cheesecake made its debut at Upmarket, Huddersfeld. I now supply several restaurants and cafés, and have a Friday stall at Huddersfeld train station, treating teatime commuters to a portion of cheesecake. I hate waste. I’ve got a master’s degree in Sustainable Development and want to keep that environmental thread in my business. We grow our own fruit, which gives me loads of blackcurrants, strawberries and raspberries for the fruity cheesecakes. My blackcurrant & liquorice is one of the most popular favours. We’ve had some lovely feedback, including one of my favourites: ‘I need the Baileys cheesecake in my life!’ I owe a lot of thanks to my family and also to members of my WI, who’ve always been on hand to sample. Most of all I owe thanks to my mum’s original cheesecake recipe.
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Good reads
Kathy Shand, a member for four years, is involved with three WIs in the Derbyshire villages of Kirk Langley and Duffeld
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‘There was no other way you could eat well, except to cook from scratch’
Kathy’s Oat biscuits EASY
MAKES 16 PREP 15 mins COOK 15 mins
85g/3oz softened butter, plus extra for greasing 85g/3oz golden caster sugar 2 tbsp golden syrup 1 /4 tsp bicarbonate of soda 100g/4oz rolled oats 85g/3oz plain four 1 /2 tsp ground ginger
she had lived long enough for me to make her feel special. I love her recipe book because it’s a tatty, working document. It’s not an heirloom, it’s something she used. Mum scrimped on everything. So when I make her oat biscuits, I remember how lucky I am. n Historian Lucy Worsley
marks the centenary of the Women’s Institute in a special documentary coming soon on BBC Two. n To find out how to join your local WI, and for more information about the centenary celebrations, visit thewi.org.uk.
bbcgoodfood.com
1 Heat oven to 180C/160C fan/gas 4. Beat the butter and sugar together in a bowl until light and fuffy. Mix the golden syrup with 1 tbsp hot water to loosen it. Beat the syrup into the butter mixture. 2 In a separate bowl, mix together the remaining dry ingredients, then add to the butter and mix well with a wooden spoon until you have a soft dough. 3 Lightly grease 1 large or 2 small baking sheets with butter. Divide the dough into 16 balls and put them on the baking sheet, leaving plenty of room to spread. Bake for 12-15 mins until golden brown. Leave to cool on the baking sheet for 5 mins, then transfer to a wire rack to cool completely. PER BISCUIT energy 111 kcals • fat 5g • saturates 3g • carbs 15g • sugars 7g • fibre 1g • protein 2g • salt 0.1g n We’d love to hear your Women’s Institute stories. Get in touch at the addresses on p145
May 2015
Archive photographs NFWI ARCHIVES | Recipe photograph LOUISE HAYWOOD-SCHIEFER
We live in times of excess. Cookery shows, celebrity chefs and recipe books encourage over-consumption. I enjoy the simplicity of my mum’s oat biscuits. Goodness knows what fats she used. I expect on gloomy days it was lard, at best margarine. My mum made a scrawly, half-hearted attempt at making herself a recipe notebook when she got married during the Second World War, and added to it when she set up the home during rationing. The book has references to dried egg, a lot of margarine and things like ‘mock cream’. Austerity leaps from the sad little pages. She had little skill or experience, no money and no ingredients to inspire her. However, she learnt to cook over the years and I remember her food fondly. Not fashy, but made with care. Ours was typical home fare – fll-you-up food. Because it was cold and we had no central heating, we were always hungry. There was no other way you could eat well, except to cook from scratch. Mum always had the radio on while she did housework, and loved Jimmy Young, who did the recipe slot on the radio. She had a hunger for education and she liked cookery books. Like a lot of housewives, her routine was quite strict. I remember as a child being so excited to go downstairs to see what cakes had been made for the weekend. There might be scones, biscuits and Victoria sandwiches, or – one of my favourites – her coconut tart, made with homemade jam and pastry. When ready-made food came into the shops, my mum was one of the frst to buy it. She referred to Vesta ready meals as ‘the new meat’ – if technology had provided it, it must be good. In hindsight, she was already being sucked into the commercial messages we are surrounded by today. I was a home economist teacher and food writer for many years. It was the appreciation of quality that I inherited from my mum. My grandma’s homemade pastry was made with lard. It was grey. Her turkeys were cremated. She made her own brawn and bought broken biscuits from the local market that were all crumbled and soft. She just didn’t connect with food. I could detect the contrast between my grandma’s pastry and my mum’s pastry from a very young age. Thrift was at the heart of everything, and every time I wash a polythene bag, I think of my mum, who did the same. My daughter Jennifer has picked up the habit too. I enjoy the companionship of the WI. I think mum would have liked it, but her life was too busy. Running a home in those days was hard work. Like so many women of her generation, she was short changed. I wish
In season Homemade cakes at Edinburgh’s Secret Herb Garden
FOOD LOVERS’ DAYS OUT
Coffee, cake & camellias
Once a sideshow to buying plants, cafés at gardens and garden centres are now often the main attraction. Clare Hargreaves picks 10 favourites The stunning café at Petersham Nurseries
Nottinghamshire Belle & Joe’s Kitchen, Timmermans Garden Centre, Woodborough (www.timmermansgardencentre.com) A pretty place to eat, with waitress service at a family-run garden centre, famous for its roses. All meals are made from scratch, with many of the herbs and salad leaves grown on site, and meat sourced from a local butcher. There are hot specials – at this time of year, you might fnd Cream of asparagus soup or Slow-roasted lamb shanks – and stonebaked pizzas. Also popular are the freshly baked cakes, many with unusual favours such as elderfower, courgette or frosted blueberry.
Wiltshire Sticks and Stones, Woodborough Garden Centre, Pewsey (01672 852268) You can shop while you eat at this stylish café based inside its own hut. Estonian-born owner Liis Flack creates inventive sandwiches and light lunches (I loved the Avocado with lime juice & chilli fakes on toast with rocket & poached egg). Homemade cakes, such as the Polenta & summer berry, are ace too.
Worton Organic Garden Café, Cassington (wortonorganicgarden.com)
Northern Ireland Creative Gardens Café, Donaghadee (creativegardens.com) When the Gass family, who own three Creative Gardens centres, frst opened the café at Donaghadee more than 20 years ago, its refreshments provided welcome sustenance to gardeners shopping for plants and compost. Now it’s a draw in its own right, offering homemade hot savoury meals as well as lemon meringue pie and giant scones. It even serves breakfast – try the pancakes with crispy bacon & maple syrup.
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Lincolnshire
Hampshire
Scotland
Easton Walled Gardens, Grantham (eastonwalledgardens.co.uk)
Café Théatre, Redfields Garden Centre, Fleet (bluediamond.gg/ project/cafetheatre)
Secret Herb Garden, Edinburgh (secretherb garden.co.uk)
Another café that draws on its decorative vegetable garden for many of its dishes. As well as salads and soups, you’ll fnd cakes made on site using free-range eggs, elderfower cordial, plus locally baked bread. Follow lunch or tea with a tour of this celebrated ‘lost’ garden, famous in summer for its sweet peas and roses.
Surrey Petersham Nurseries (petershamnurseries.com) Catapulted to fame by Skye Gyngell, who won a Michelin star for her food here in 2011, Petersham’s stunning glasshouse café (lunch only Tue-Sun) is headed by Damian Clisby, previously at Hix Soho. Edible fowers are a highlight, and in May you might fnd Damian combining Firth of Lorn scallops with shaved radish and borage fowers. The bakes are as good as always – try the legendary Lemon & poppy seed cake.
A beautiful space where the daily roasts – sourced from Graves Butchers in nearby Hook – are the big draw. At teatime, sample the homemade Honey cake or the Hazelnut & praline roulade.
Wales The Gatehouse Café, National Botanic Garden of Wales, Llanarthne, Carmarthenshire (gardenofwales.org.uk/visitors-info/ shopping-and-eating) Admire the Double Walled Garden, then taste its produce. Lunch in the Seasons Restaurant at this time of year might include Early broad bean & pea risotto with wild ransoms & shavings of Cwmtawe pecorino or Welsh Black beef, reared on the Garden’s organic farm estate. Alternatively, head to the Gatehouse Café, which serves cakes and has a shop selling Welsh produce.
bbcgoodfood.com
The newly opened herb garden, in a restored greenhouse south-west of Edinburgh, offers homemade cakes, soups and quiches – all favoured with homegrown herbs. Drink teas or coffees with a herbal twist, and sit in the café-hut (which doubles up as a shop), in the greenhouse, or among the herb beds. The gardens holds Full Moon dinners once a month.
Devon Duchy of Cornwall Nursery, Lostwithiel (duchyofcornwallnursery.co.uk) You’ll need to get here in good time to grab one of the café’s wonderful cakes, baked on the premises. Dairy ingredients come from nearby Trewithen Farm. For lunch, there are dishes such as pork belly or croque monsieur. In summer, sit on the terrace and enjoy views of Restormel Castle. Not surprisingly, the café won a Taste of the West Gold award last year.
May 2015
Photographs DAVID LOFTUS, GETTY IMAGES, JACEK HUBNER
Oxfordshire The food on your plate at this attractive café (open for lunch Fri-Sun) refects what’s growing in the garden – and in summer you can sit outside in the heart of it all. Dishes, cooked by co-owner Anneke Blake, might include Grilled garden vegetables with romesco sauce or Home-grazed lamb, accompanied by homemade sourdough. For pud, Anneke’s Rhubarb tart is a winner. Try the Prior’s Tipple apple juice from nearby Evesham, and stock up on veg in the farm shop.
Award-winning food at the Duchy of Cornwall Nursery
100 years of innovation
Centenary jug collector edition
Twitter @PyrexUKOfficial Facebook Pyrex UK (Official) #pyrex100 For more details visit www.pyrexuk.com
Pyrex is a trademark of Corning Incorporated used under license by International Cookware.
Optimum roaster
Vintage bowl collector edition
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Make it tonight
OUR PROMISE TO YOU
Simple cooking, exciting favours No more than 20 minutes prep Easy-to-fnd ingredients Simple shortcuts for speedy suppers
Recipes JEMMA MORPHET Photographs ROB STREETER
Herby rice with roasted veg, chickpeas & halloumi
Aubergine with prawns in oyster sauce
EASY
OF 5 GLUTEN FOLATE FIBRE VIT C IRON 4 A DAY FREE
SERVES 4 PREP 15 mins COOK 35 mins
OF 5 EASY FIBRE VIT C 2 A DAY
2 red onions, cut into chunky wedges 3 peppers, sliced (we used green, red and yellow) 3 courgettes (about 600g/1lb 5oz), cut into batons 5 tbsp olive oil 200g/7oz brown basmati rice small pack fat-leaf parsley 85g/3oz cashew nuts 1 garlic clove, crushed 400g can chickpeas, drained and rinsed 200g/8oz block of halloumi, cut into chunky cubes
SERVES 2 PREP 10 mins COOK 20 mins
3 tbsp sunfower oil, plus 2 tsp 1 aubergine, cut into rounds then 1cm/1/2in strips 1 red pepper, cut into strips 6 spring onions, trimmed and cut into matchsticks small piece fnely chopped ginger 3 garlic cloves, fnely sliced 175g/6oz large raw prawns 3 tbsp oyster sauce cooked rice or egg noodles, to serve
1 Heat the 3 tbsp oil in a wok or large, non-stick frying pan. Toss in the aubergine and cook for 8 mins or so, stirring frequently, until tender. Add the pepper and 1 tbsp water and cook for 3 mins more. Remove from the pan and set aside. 2 Add the remaining 2 tsp oil to the pan and tip in most of the spring onions, the ginger and garlic. Cook for 2 mins or until softened, taking care not to let it burn. Add the prawns and stir-fry until pink and cooked through. 3 Tip the aubergine and pepper back into the pan and add the oyster sauce, plus 5 tbsp water. Simmer until slightly thickened and hot through. Scatter over the reserved spring onions and serve with rice or noodles.
£1.93 per serving
PER SERVING energy 340 kcals • fat 21g • saturates 2g • carbs 14g • sugars 10g • fibre 8g • protein 19g • salt 2.0g
£3.10 per serving
Spicy noodles with spring onions & fried eggs EASY
LOW FIBRE CAL
SERVES 4 PREP 10 mins COOK 10 mins
4 nests of wholewheat noodles 2 tbsp sunfower oil, plus a little to coat the noodles 6 spring onions, 1 very fnely chopped, 5 sliced 1 /2 red chilli, deseeded and fnely chopped 1 heaped tbsp Madras curry paste 2 carrots, cut into discs on the diagonal, then sliced 1 Chinese leaf cabbage, roughly sliced 1 tbsp soy sauce, plus extra to taste 4 eggs
1 Cook the noodles following pack instructions, drain and toss in a little oil. Mix the very fnely chopped spring onion and chilli in a small bowl with a pinch of seasoning. Set aside. 2 Heat half the oil in a wok. Add the curry paste and cook for a couple of mins. Tip in the carrots and cook for 2 mins more. Add the sliced spring onions and cabbage, and cook until soft. Toss in the noodles and soy sauce and warm through. 3 While the noodles are warming, heat the remaining oil in a large frying pan and crack in the eggs. Sprinkle the chilli mixture over the egg whites. Cook to your liking. Serve on top of the noodles with extra soy sauce to taste. PER SERVING energy 471 kcals • fat 16g • saturates 3g • carbs 59g • sugars 6g • fibre 6g • protein 18g • salt 2.6g
bbcgoodfood.com
1 Heat oven to 200C/180C fan/gas 6. Put the red onions, peppers and courgettes in a large roasting tin, toss in 2 tbsp oil and season. (You may need to do this in 2 tins.) Pop in the oven and cook for 25 mins until the veg is tender and beginning to turn golden. 2 Meanwhile, cook the rice following pack instructions. Whizz together the parsley, cashew nuts, remaining oil, the garlic and seasoning to make a pesto. Stir the chickpeas and halloumi into the roasted veg and cook for 10 mins more. Fork the parsley pesto through the rice, spoon over the veg and serve. PER SERVING energy 782 kcals • fat 40g • saturates 13g • carbs 70g • sugars 17g • fibre 1g • protein 29g • salt 1.9g
91p per serving
Everyday £1.68 per serving Turkey meatballs in olive & courgette sauce OF 5 EASY FOLATE IRON 2 A DAY
SERVES 4 PREP 15 mins COOK 30 mins
500g/1lb 2oz turkey mince 4 tbsp fresh white breadcrumbs 1 /2 onion, grated 2 tsp fennel seeds, ground with a pestle and mortar 2 tbsp olive oil 3 courgettes, cut into half-moons 2 garlic cloves, fnely sliced 400g carton chopped tomatoes with olives 400g/14oz linguine grated Parmesan, to serve
Lamb, spinach & ricotta burgers 1 OF 5 GLUTEN EASY LOW CAL CALCIUM FIBRE IRON A DAY FREE
burger patties only SERVES 4 PREP 15 mins COOK 20 mins
2 tbsp olive oil, plus 2 tsp 4 small onions, 2 halved and fnely sliced, 2 grated 1 tbsp cumin seeds 200g/7oz baby spinach leaves 300g/11oz lamb mince 3 tbsp ricotta 6 tbsp Greek-style yogurt 1 /2 small pack mint leaves, fnely chopped 4 seeded buns (or gluten-free alternative), split in half 1-2 large tomatoes, sliced
1 Mix the frst 4 ingredients together in a bowl and season generously. Roll into 12 meatballs. 2 Heat half the oil in a large frying pan. Pop in the meatballs and brown all over. Remove from the pan and set aside. Add the rest of the oil and tip in the courgettes and garlic. Cook for 3 mins to soften. Pour in the chopped tomatoes, plus half a carton of water and the meatballs. Simmer for a further 15-20 mins, or until the meatballs are cooked through and the sauce has really thickened. 3 Meanwhile, cook the pasta following pack instructions. Drain and mix with a few tbsp of the tomato sauce to coat. Top with the meatballs and remaining sauce. Sprinkle with Parmesan and serve. PER SERVING energy 564 kcals • fat 12g • saturates 7g • carbs 70g • sugars 7g • fibre 3g • protein 42g • salt 0.8g
£2.28 per serving
Roast radish, new potato & peppered mackerel salad 1 OF 5 GLUTEN EASY VIT C OMEGA-3 A DAY FREE
SERVES 4 PREP 15 mins plus cooling COOK 30 mins
2 x 200g bags radishes 500g/1lb 2oz baby new potatoes, halved (or quartered if large) 5 tbsp olive oil 3 tbsp Greek-style yogurt juice 1/2 lemon 1 small garlic clove, crushed 1 /2 small pack dill, most fnely chopped, a few fronds reserved to garnish 2 bags lamb’s lettuce (about 140g/5oz) 300g pack smoked peppered mackerel fllets, skin removed, broken up into large fakes
1 Heat oven to 220C/200C fan/gas 7. Put the radishes and potatoes in a shallow roasting tin. Drizzle with 2 tbsp of the olive oil and season. Roast in the oven for 30 mins, tossing once, until tender and golden. 2 Meanwhile, make the dressing. Whisk together the remaining oil, the yogurt, lemon juice, garlic, chopped dill and seasoning. It may separate slightly and need whisking again before serving. 3 Remove the veg from the oven and allow to cool for 5 mins. Toss the lettuce in the dressing, top with the veg and then the fsh. Sprinkle over the reserved dill fronds and serve.
1 Heat 2 tbsp olive oil in a frying pan. Tip in the sliced onions and cumin seeds, plus seasoning. Cook gently for 20 mins until golden and caramelised. 2 Meanwhile, put the spinach in a colander and pour over a kettle or two of boiling water to wilt. Squeeze the spinach as dry as possible, chop roughly and put in a large bowl. Add the mince, grated onion, ricotta and seasoning. Mix thoroughly, then shape into 4 burgers. Heat 2 tsp of oil in a non-stick frying pan and cook the burgers for 8-9 mins each side, or until cooked through. 3 Mix the yogurt, mint and seasoning in a bowl. Spread a little onto each bun, add the tomatoes and burgers, and put the onions on top. Add an extra dollop of yogurt and serve.
PER SERVING energy 548 kcals • fat 41g • saturates 9g • carbs 23g • sugars 5g • fibre 3g • protein 19g • salt 1.6g
PER SERVING energy 462 kcals • fat 27g • saturates 8g • carbs 27g • sugars 10g • fibre 6g • protein 25g • salt 1.1g
May 2015
£1.72 per serving
bbcgoodfood.com
59
Everyday
£2.54 per serving Sticky citrus chicken 1 OF 5 EASY LOW CAL A DAY
SERVES 2 PREP 15 mins COOK 40 mins
2 skinless chicken breasts 1 heaped tbsp plain four, seasoned 2 tbsp olive oil 1 banana shallot, fnely sliced 1 carrot, cut into matchsticks 1 /2 x 500g tub fresh chicken stock juice and zest 1 lemon juice and zest 1 orange 1 tbsp each soy sauce and clear honey cooked spring greens and steamed rice, to serve
Bacon & avocado frittata OF 5 GLUTEN EASY FOLATE VIT C 2 A DAY FREE
SERVES 4 PREP 10 mins COOK 25 mins
8 rashers smoked streaky bacon 3 tbsp olive oil 6 eggs, beaten 1 large avocado, halved, stoned, peeled and cut into chunky slices 1 small red chilli, fnely chopped 1 heaped tsp Dijon mustard 2 tsp red wine vinegar 200g bag mixed salad leaves (we used watercress, rocket & spinach) 12 baby plum tomatoes, halved
PER SERVING energy 386 kcals • fat 13g • saturates 2g • carbs 29g • sugars 17g • fibre 4g • protein 36g • salt 1.9g
£1.71 per serving
1 Heat a 24cm non-stick ovenproof pan and fry the bacon rashers in batches on a high heat until cooked through and crisp. Chop 4 roughly and break the other 4 into large pieces. Set aside on kitchen paper and clean the pan. 2 Heat the grill to high. Warm 1 tbsp oil in the pan. Season the eggs, add the chopped bacon and pour into the pan. Cook on a low heat for around 8 mins or until almost set. Arrange the avocado slices and bacon shards on top. Grill briefy for about 4 mins until set. 3 Mix the remaining oil, the chilli, mustard, vinegar and seasoning in a large bowl. Toss in the salad leaves and tomatoes. Serve alongside the frittata, cut into wedges.
EASY
OF 5 CALCIUM FOLATE FIBRE VIT C IRON 3 A DAY
GLUTEN FREE
SERVES 2 PREP 15 mins COOK 15 mins
10 spring onions, trimmed 2 tbsp pumpkin seeds, plus extra to serve 1 tbsp olive oil, plus 1 tsp 2 soft four tortillas (or gluten-free alternative) 10 slices of jalapeño chilli (from a jar) 85g/3oz cheddar, grated 1 avocado, halved, stoned and peeled juice 1 lime small pack coriander, plus extra leaves to serve 1 /2 cucumber, peeled, halved lengthways and sliced on the diagonal 2 Little Gem lettuces, cut into thin wedges
1 Boil a pan of water and add the spring onions. Cook for 2-3 mins until just tender, then drain and run under very cold water. Set aside on some kitchen paper. Toast the pumpkin seeds for 1-2 mins in a hot, dry pan until slightly golden. Tip into a bowl and leave to cool. 2 Heat a griddle pan on a high heat. Drizzle the spring onions with 1 tsp olive oil and season. Griddle for 2 mins each side until lightly charred. Lay out a tortilla and place the spring onions across, top to tail. Scatter over the jalapeños and the cheese. Top with the other tortilla and press together. Cook in the griddle pan for 1-2 mins each side, turning carefully, until the cheese has melted and the tortilla is crisp. 3 Meanwhile, whizz together the remaining oil, the avocado, lime juice, coriander and 1 tbsp water. Season the dressing before tossing with the cucumber and lettuce. Sprinkle with pumpkin seeds and the remaining coriander leaves. Cut the quesadilla in quarters and serve with the salad.
PER SERVING energy 467 kcals • fat 38g • saturates 9g • carbs 7g • sugars 7g • fibre 5g • protein 22g • salt 2.4g
60
Spring onion quesadillas with guacamole salad
PER SERVING energy 625 kcals • fat 45g • saturates 15g • carbs 26g • sugars 8g • fibre 14g • protein 22g • salt 1.9g
bbcgoodfood.com
May 2015
Food styling SARA BUENFELD
£2.20 per serving
1 Place the chicken breasts between 2 pieces of baking parchment and lightly bash with a rolling pin to fatten. Dip each one in the four to coat on both sides. Heat half the oil in a non-stick pan and fry the chicken for 2 mins each side until golden. Remove and set aside. 2 Add the remaining oil to the pan and tip in the shallot and carrot. Cook for 5 mins or until soft. Add the chicken stock, citrus juice and zests, soy sauce and honey. Continue to bubble down for 10 mins until thickened. 3 Return the chicken to the pan and turn down the heat. Simmer for 15-20 mins until the chicken is cooked through and the sauce is thick and glossy. If it gets too thick, add a splash of water. Season the chicken and serve with the sauce spooned over. Serve with greens and rice.
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CANNY COOK TO THE RESCUE
‘I’m a vegetarian, he loves meat!’
As many of us think about eating less meat, or going vegetarian, it can be a struggle to plan meals that the whole family can enjoy together. Cassie Best, our Canny Cook, has the answers Photographs ROB STREETER
Here’s our Canny Cook’s solution
Karen and Michael Holland live in London with their three-year-old daughter, Serena. Karen works as an e-commerce manager for a hotel chain, and Michael is Head of education at the Chelsea Physic Garden. Karen gave up meat as a teenager, and has brought up Serena as a vegetarian. Although Michael loves meat, most of the family’s meals at home are meat-free as they fnd it diffcult to prepare two separate suppers. They often eat dinner with Karen’s parents, who are also vegetarian, and like to prepare traditional Indian food with plenty of favour and spice. Karen says: ‘I’d like to cook meals that we can all enjoy as a family, but it’s hard to please everyone!’
EGGS
DAIRY
NUTS
Considered a ‘complete’ source of protein as they contain all nine essential amino acids. Also packed with vitamin D. ■ Start the day with 2 large scrambled eggs = 13g protein
It’s easy to top up your protein level with healthy dairy products. ■ Use 100ml semi-skimmed milk in your tea throughout the day = 3.4g protein ■ Whizz 100g natural yogurt with some frozen berries for an instant frozen yogurt dessert = 5.7g protein ■ Add 100g halloumi to your supper = 21.2g protein
Nutrient-dense nuts are packed with protein, minerals and heart-friendly fats. Almonds, pistachios and cashews are among the highest in protein. ■ Snack on 50g almonds throughout the day = 10.6g protein
SOYA Low in fat and high in protein, soya comes in a variety of forms, including the young, green beans (called edamame) and miso (fermented soya bean paste), which is used to favour Asian dishes. Tempeh, which is used in Indonesian cooking, is made from soya beans that have been cooked and hulled – the texture is solid and cake-like. It’s not as widely available as tofu, which is made from soya milk. Turn to p27 for more tofu recipes and information. ■ Add 100g fresh soya beans to your supper = 11g protein
BEANS AND PULSES High in protein, and many varieties (such as lentils) also contain good levels of iron. ■ Snack on 100g roasted chickpeas throughout the day = 19g protein
l
SEEDS AND GRAINS Choose your seeds and grains carefully. Some contain much higher levels of protein than others; quinoa and amaranth contain double the amount of rice or barley. ■ Serve your chilli on a bed of 100g quinoa or amaranth = each provides 14g protein
feta £1.38 per se rvin rzo & o g th i w a t f ko
Le nt i
Meet the family
Whether you follow a strict vegetarian diet or simply aim to go meatfree a few days a week, cutting down the amount of meat you eat can have countless benefts. A healthy vegetarian diet full of vegetables, grains and dairy can boost your 5-a-day intake, save you money and help to reduce the environmental impact of the meat industry. To help you manage your meals in a ‘mixed’ household, I’ve created a week’s worth of delicious fexible vegetarian recipes, which you can add meat to if you want to. This will save you from cooking two separate meals. All the recipes are nutritionally balanced to include a healthy portion of protein, vegetables and carbohydrates. Strict vegetarians can sometimes struggle to reach the recommended 50g of protein a day, but once you know how, there are plenty of non-meat options to try. Here are some practical suggestions.
CAN OUR CANNY COOK HELP YOU? If you want help to plan and cook your meals, email Cassie, our Canny Cook, at enquiries@bbcgoodfoodmagazine.com.
62
May 2015
Everyday
Cheesy omelette burgers EASY
CALCIUM
IRON
SERVES 4 PREP 15 mins COOK 15 mins
1 tbsp olive or rapeseed oil 8 large eggs, beaten 200g/7oz frozen peas 85g/3oz mature cheddar, grated 4 large burger buns, toasted 4 tbsp onion chutney or chilli jam handful salad leaves (I used rocket), slices of tomato and sweet potato wedges (optional), to serve
EASY
OF 5 GLUTEN FIBRE 2 A DAY FREE
SERVES 4 PREP 20 mins COOK 25 mins
2 tbsp olive or rapeseed oil 1 red onion, chopped 3 garlic cloves, crushed 2 tsp ground cumin 2 x 400g cans black beans, drained and rinsed zest 2 limes, then 1 juiced, the other cut into wedges to serve 396g pack tofu, halved through the centre, then chopped into small chunks 2 tsp smoked paprika 2 x 200g pouches cooked brown rice 2 small ripe avocados, halved, stoned, peeled and chopped small bunch coriander, leaves only 1 red chilli, thinly sliced (optional)
1 Heat the grill to High. Heat 1 tbsp oil in a frying pan, add the onion and cook, stirring, for 5 mins or so until soft. Add the garlic and sizzle for 30 secs more, then stir in the cumin and black beans. Cook for 5 mins until the beans start to pop and are hot through. Stir through the lime zest and juice, and season. 2 While the beans cook, put the tofu in a bowl and gently toss through the remaining oil, the paprika and some seasoning. Line a baking tray with foil and arrange the tofu on top. Cook under the grill for 5 mins each side until charred all over. 3 Heat the rice following pack instructions, then divide between bowls. Top with the beans, tofu, avocado, coriander and a wedge of lime. Add a few slices of chilli too, if you like it spicy. PER SERVING energy 546 kcals • fat 25g • saturates 4g • carbs 48g • sugars 4g • fibre 14g • protein 25g • salt 0.8g
May 2015
Make it meaty Swap the tofu for some smoky chunks of chorizo – slice 50g per person, removing the papery skin, and sizzle in a frying pan until the juices run into the pan. If your chorizo is spicy, you may want to serve the dish with a blob of soured cream to temper the heat.
‘This is ideal if you’re short on time but want something flling. Everyone enjoyed the addition of chilli jam. ‘When I make it again, I’ll try a few alternative omelette fllings. It was so tasty, I could have eaten another one!’
PER SERVING energy 558 kcals • fat 26g • saturates 9g • carbs 49g • sugars 7g • fibre 5g • protein 29g • salt 2.1g
Black bean, tofu & avocado rice bowl
Full of f lavour
r se r e 1p £ 2.1
g vin
l
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KAREN SAYS
1 Heat the oil in a frying pan (roughy 20cm wide) and heat the grill to high. Season the eggs and add to the pan along with the peas. Quickly mix, then leave for 8 mins over a low-medium heat until the underside is set and just turning golden. Scatter over the cheese and grill for 3 mins until the surface is set and the cheese is bubbling. 2 Meanwhile, spread each burger bun with chutney or chilli jam. Cut the omelette into 4 wedges and sandwich between the buns, add a handful of leaves and a few slices of tomato, and serve with sweet potato wedges, if you like.
KAREN SAYS ‘My husband loved the tanginess from the lime. My dad, Simon – a rice and curry man – thought it was tasty and flling, and said he would eat it again. The slices of avocado on top balanced the dish out. ‘Both my dad and husband added slices of chilli on top for extra spiciness.’
Do nÕt mis g s ou rvin t on b urger night ! 92p per se
bbcgoodfood.com
63
k, cheap and delicious £1. Quic 09 pe rs er vi ng
Lentil kofta with orzo & feta EASY
OF 5 GOOD VIT C 2 A DAY 4 YOU
(kofta and sauce only) SERVES 4 PREP 25 mins plus chilling COOK 30 mins
2 x 400g cans cooked green lentils, drained 1 medium egg 100g/4oz oats 1 tbsp ras el hanout small bunch parsley, chopped zest 1 lemon 2 tbsp olive or rapeseed oil 4 garlic cloves, crushed 2 x 400g cans chopped tomatoes pinch of sugar 300g/11oz orzo pasta 100g/4oz feta, crumbled l
EASY
LOW LOW 2 OF 5 FAT CAL A DAY
SERVES 4 PREP 10 mins COOK 35 mins
3 tbsp miso paste or miso glaze 3 tbsp mirin 3 tbsp soy sauce 2 garlic cloves, crushed 1 tbsp sesame oil 4 large or 8 small Portobello mushrooms 3 x 150g packs straight-to-wok udon noodles 1 tbsp sesame seeds, toasted 4 spring onions, fnely sliced on an angle
1 Heat oven to 200C/180C fan/gas 6. In a bowl, whisk the miso paste, mirin, soy sauce, garlic and half the sesame oil until smooth and combined. Line a baking tray with a large sheet of foil, place the mushrooms in the middle and scrunch up the sides to almost
encase the mushrooms. Pour over the miso mix, turning the mushrooms to ensure they are well coated. Scrunch the packet of foil closed and bake for 30 mins. 2 About 5 mins before the mushrooms are ready, heat the remaining oil in a wok, stir-fry the noodles until hot through then divide between 4 bowls. Top each bowl with 1 or 2 mushrooms and pour over the sauce from the foil. Scatter with sesame seeds and spring onions. PER SERVING energy 262 kcals • fat 7g • saturates 1g • carbs 38g • sugars 8g • fibre 5g • protein 10g • salt 3.4g
KAREN SAYS ‘This was really easy to prepare. My dad doesn’t eat mushrooms, so I substituted them with aubergine, which worked well using the same cooking method. The toasted sesame seeds and spring onions were a good crunchy topping.’
Vary the recipe Replace the mushrooms with salmon fllets – cook in the same way, but for just 15 mins. If you don’t like mushrooms, follow Karen’s advice and use aubergines, halved through the centre and cooked in the same way as the mushrooms.
PER SERVING energy 598 kcals • fat 16g • saturates 5g • carbs 82g • sugars 8g • fibre 11g • protein 26g • salt 1.3g
Make it meaty
Grow your own courgettes This versatile vegetable is useful for many dishes such as ratatouille, veggie lasagne, courgette muffins or even making your own chutney!
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The ‘Defender’ F1 Hybrid is an award-winning variety, producing yields that are almost twice that of other varieties. Its open habit lets you see and pick the crop easily. BBC Good Food readers can order fve young plants for just £9.99 (order code TCK12500P) .
‘We don’t have a food processor so we used a stick blender, which did the trick for blitzing the mixture for the koftas. I prepared them the day before and kept them in the fridge. ‘This is the frst time any of us have eaten orzo, and we loved it. We added some chilli fakes to the tomato sauce for extra spiciness. The feta on top was creamy and tangy.’
To order, call 0844 557 1685 quoting GFR1 or visit www.thompson-morgan.com/GFR1.
p&p 64
Replace the kofta with a lamb version, made with 500g lamb mince instead of the lentils, and leaving out the oats. Cook in the same way, on a separate baking tray.
KAREN SAYS
Exclusive offer for BBC Good Food readers: free p&p
FREE
1 Put the lentils, egg, oats, ras el hanout, half the parsley and the lemon zest in a food processer. Add some seasoning and blitz until fnely chopped. Remove the blade, shape the mixture into balls the size of cherry tomatoes, then chill for 20 mins. Heat oven to 200C/180C fan/gas 6. 2 Meanwhile, heat 1 tbsp of the oil in a pan. Add the garlic, sizzle for 30 secs, then add the tomatoes, sugar and some seasoning. Bubble the sauce for 20-25 mins until rich and thickened. While the sauce cooks, line a baking tray with foil and arrange the kofta on top. Drizzle over the remaining oil, and bake for 20 mins, rolling around in the tray halfway through cooking. Once cooked, add the kofta to the tomato sauce, gently coating each one. 3 Cook the orzo following pack instructions, then drain and divide between 4 plates. Top with the sauce and kofta, crumble over the feta and sprinkle with the remaining parsley.
Plants dispatched from May 2015. Offer closes 31 May 2015. Please note that your contract for supply of goods is with Thompson & Morgan, Poplar Lane, Ipswich IP8 3BU.
bbcgoodfood.com
May 2015
Food styling SARA BUENFELD
Saucy miso mushrooms with udon noodles
Everyday
Vary the fillings to suit everyone £1.25 per serving
Pepper, pesto & sweetcorn calzones EASY
1 OF 5 CALCIUM A DAY
before baking SERVES 4 PREP 25 mins plus proving COOK 30 mins
500g pack bread mix 100g/4oz passata 290g jar roasted red peppers, drained and roughly chopped 100g/4oz frozen sweetcorn 125g ball mozzarella, torn into pieces 50g/2oz Parmesan (or vegetarian alternative), grated handful basil leaves, torn 50g/2oz pesto 1 egg, beaten dressed salad leaves, to serve
May 2015
1 Make up the bread mix to pack instructions, reserving a little of the four for dusting, and leave to prove for 30 mins. 2 Line a baking tray with baking parchment. Tip the dough onto a foured surface and cut into quarters. Roll each ball of dough to a circle, roughly 20cm wide. Spread a little passata over each base, leaving a border of about 1cm around the edge. Season well. 3 Top with the peppers, sweetcorn, mozzarella, Parmesan, basil and blobs of pesto. Fold each base in half, to make a half-moon shape, then squeeze the edges together, rolling them a little to stick and create a seal. Cover the tray with cling flm and leave for 10 mins. Heat oven to 220C/200C fan/gas 7.
bbcgoodfood.com
4 Brush the calzones all over with beaten egg, then bake for 25-30 mins or until puffed and golden brown. Serve with dressed salad leaves. PER SERVING energy 592 kcals • fat 28g • saturates 10g • carbs 56g • sugars 4g • fibre 4g • protein 27g • salt 2.6g
Make it meaty These calzones are so versatile – you can add any cooked or cured meat you like. Try shredded cooked chicken, salami or leftovers from a Sunday roast – pulled pork shoulder would be delicious.
KAREN SAYS ‘A great recipe to make as a family, as everyone got involved. I know we’ll be making these again because, straight afterwards, we started discussing other fllings. ‘The calzones were quite generous – mum ate half for lunch and the other half for dinner.’
65
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Everyday Turkey & mushroom pot pies £2.37 per serving
Turkey Bolognese pasta bake £2.11 per serving
Global flavours for your favourites
Turkey mince
Turkey meatloaf £1.37 per serving May 2015
Four new midweek suppers to cook using this affordable, lean source of protein Recipes CHELSIE COLLINS Photographs ROB STREETER
Ginger turkey lettuce wraps £1.33 per serving
bbcgoodfood.com
67
Everyday Turkey Bolognese pasta bake
Turkey & mushroom pot pies
OF 5 EASY CALCIUM 2 A DAY
OF 5 EASY FOLATE 2 A DAY
meat sauce only SERVES 4-6 PREP 20 mins COOK 1 hr 10 mins
MAKES 2 PREP 25 mins COOK 40-45 mins
1 tbsp olive oil 2 onions, fnely chopped 500g/1lb 2oz turkey mince (thigh is best) 1 garlic clove, crushed 2 x 400g cans chopped tomatoes 1 tbsp chipotle paste 300ml/1/2pt chicken stock 400g/14oz large pasta shells 250g tub mascarpone 200g/7oz cheddar, grated 2 tbsp grated Parmesan
1 tbsp butter 1 large onion, fnely chopped 4 rashers streaky bacon, chopped 140g/5oz chestnut mushrooms, sliced 250g/9oz turkey mince (thigh is best) 25g/1oz plain four 200ml/7f oz chicken stock a few thyme sprigs, leaves picked 1 /2 x 375g sheet ready-rolled puff pastry 1 egg yolk, beaten wilted spring greens, to serve
1 Heat the olive oil in a large pan. Add the onions and cook for 8-10 mins until softened. Add the mince and brown all over. Once browned, add the garlic, tomatoes, chipotle paste and chicken stock, and bring to the boil. Turn down to a simmer and cook, uncovered, for 35-40 mins, adding a splash of water if it looks too dry. 2 While the turkey cooks, boil the pasta following pack instructions, then drain, reserving some of the
water. Warm through the mascarpone with a splash of the hot pasta water over a low heat. Add 140g cheddar, season and stir to combine. 3 Heat oven to 200C/180C fan/gas 6. Transfer the turkey sauce to a large baking dish. Stir the cheese sauce through the pasta and pour over the mince. Sprinkle the remaining cheddar and the Parmesan on top. Bake in the oven for 20 mins or until golden and crisping at the edges. PER SERVING (6) energy 647 kcals • fat 33g • saturates 20g • carbs 44g • sugars 9g • fibre 2g • protein 41g • salt 1.1g
Ginger turkey lettuce wraps
1 Heat the butter in a large pan. Add the onion and cook for 8-10 mins until softened. Add the bacon and mushrooms, and cook until both are browned. Add the turkey mince, breaking up with a wooden spoon, and cook for another 5 mins until browned. 2 Add the four, stir for 1 min or so, then pour in the chicken stock and add the thyme. Mix well and cook over a medium heat for 1-2 mins
until it boils and thickens slightly. Season to taste and set aside to cool for 10-15 mins. 3 Heat oven to 220C/200C fan/gas 7. Once cooled, divide the turkey mixture between 2 ramekins or mini pie dishes. Unroll the pastry and cut out 2 squares to sit on top. Press the edges down the side of the dishes and glaze with the egg yolk. Bake in the oven for 30 mins until golden and cooked through. Serve with wilted spring greens. PER PIE energy 882 kcals • fat 51g • saturates 21g • carbs 52g • sugars 8g • fibre 4g • protein 51g • salt 3.1g
Turkey meatloaf LOW 2 OF 5 EASY LOW FAT CAL A DAY
LOW 3 OF 5 EASY LOW FAT CAL FOLATE FIBRE A DAY
SERVES 4 PREP 15 mins COOK 55 mins
1 tbsp vegetable or sunfower oil 500g/1lb 2oz turkey mince (preferably breast) 2 carrots, fnely chopped 225g can water chestnuts, drained and fnely chopped 200g/7oz green beans, fnely chopped 2cm piece ginger, peeled and grated 2 garlic cloves, crushed 3 tbsp soy sauce 2 iceberg lettuces, halved and leaves separated 6 tbsp sticky plum sauce or sweet chilli sauce, to serve
1 In a large wok or frying pan, heat the oil and fry the turkey mince until browned and cooked through. Transfer to a bowl and set aside. 2 Tip the carrots, water chestnuts and beans into the pan and stir-fry for 2 mins. Add the ginger and garlic, drizzle over the soy and stir-fry for 1-2 mins more. Add the mince and stir-fry until hot. Season to taste. 3 To serve, pile the turkey and veg into lettuce leaf ‘cups’ and drizzle over the plum or chilli sauce. PER SERVING energy 280 kcals • fat 5g • saturates 1g • carbs 22g • sugars 20g • fibre 6g • protein 34g • salt 3.0g
■ For more turkey mince recipes, visit bbcgoodfood.com
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1 tbsp olive oil 1 large onion, fnely chopped 1 garlic clove, crushed 2 tbsp Worcestershire sauce 2 tsp tomato purée, plus 1 tbsp for the beans 500g/1lb 2oz turkey mince (thigh is best) 1 large egg, beaten 85g/3oz fresh white breadcrumbs 2 tbsp barbecue sauce, plus 4 tbsp for the beans 2 x 400g cans cannellini beans 1-2 tbsp roughly chopped parsley
1 Heat oven to 180C/160C fan/gas 4. Heat the oil in a large frying pan and cook the onion for 8-10 mins until softened. Add the garlic, Worcestershire sauce and 2 tsp tomato purée, and stir until combined. Set aside to cool. 2 Put the turkey mince, egg, breadcrumbs and cooled onion mix in a large bowl and season well. Mix everything to combine, then shape into a rectangular loaf and place in a large roasting tin.
bbcgoodfood.com
Spread 2 tbsp barbecue sauce over the meatloaf and bake for 30 mins. 3 Meanwhile, drain 1 can of beans only, then pour both cans into a large bowl. Add the remaining barbecue sauce and tomato purée. Season and set aside. 4 When the meatloaf has had its initial cooking time, scatter the beans around the outside and bake for 15 mins more until the meatloaf is cooked through and the beans are piping hot. Scatter over the parsley and serve the meatloaf in slices. PER SERVING energy 416 kcals • fat 6g • saturates 1g • carbs 45g • sugars 11g • fibre 3g • protein 43g • salt 1.7g
May 2015
Food styling SARA BUENFELD
SERVES 4 PREP 20 mins COOK 12-15 mins
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NEC Birmingham 11-14 June 2015
A huge helping of exhilarating entertainment Live demonstrations, interviews and book signings with your favourite chefs
T
he BBC Good Food Show Summer brings you an amazing line up of chefs and experts, who are all on hand to help you have an unforgettable day out. From experiencing the excitement of the crowd in the live Supertheatre sessions, to getting up close with your culinary heroes in book signing sessions and live interviews, you won’t be short of magic moments at the show this June.
More than just a book shop
The Books By WHSmith stand is a great place to stock up on the latest cook books at the show, especially because so many of the authors will be on hand at the show to personally sign your new copy. Who knows, you may even be able to grab a quick selfie with your favourite chef while you’re there too!
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The highlight of the show
No scripts, no edits and no TV screen in between… just you, the crowd and your favourite chef cooking on stage, showing you how it’s done! Nothing beats the buzz of live entertainment, so it’s no wonder that visitors often see the Supertheatre as the highlight of their day. Every ticket includes a seat † in a Supertheatre session of your choice, and what a choice you have at the summer show! This year’s all-star line up includes Mary Berry, James Martin, Tom Kerridge, John Torode, the Two Greedy Italians, Antonio Carluccio & Gennaro Contaldo and for the first time at the BBC Good Food Show Summer, Michel Roux Jr. For an extra £3 per ticket, you can opt for a Gold seat, located in the front block of the theatre, and get yourself an even closer view. Remember that the earlier you book, the better your choice of seat will be!
Summer Kitchen
Enjoy seasonal and topical demonstrations all day, every day from stars including Michael Caines, Marcus Bean and John Whaite in the Summer Kitchen. The timetable includes some ‘Bakes & Cakes’ and ‘Eat Well’ themed sessions too, so you can tailor what you watch according to your own tastes and interests.
Kitchen secrets - revealed! Everybody loves a bit of gossip; hear it straight from the mouths of our chefs on the Interview Stage sponsored by Lakeland. You may even get to pose a question yourself, so make sure you come prepared with some tasty teasers for your food hero.
One ticket - two shows
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Weekend Delicious ways to make the most of those Bank Holidays Get out in the sun!
u Teatime bakes
u Cook with your kids
u New meat-free mains
u Homemade treats to
make picnics special
u Food for friends –
less than £5 per person
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Meat-free mains
In our house, we’ve gradually been eating less meat, says food writer Georgina Fuggle. Weeks pass when the only meat on the table is a roast at the weekend. I love making vegetables the star attraction, and I think you’ll enjoy these new ways to cook them
Photographs STUART OVENDEN
Modern veggie
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Tamarind aubergine with black rice, mint & feta
Taleggio tart with walnut pastry Taleggio is an Italian soft cow’s milk cheese. Make sure you check the label, as not all Taleggio is vegetarian (see p132 for a guide to buying vegetarian cheese). The walnut pastry is a lovely, nutty backdrop to the tart filling.
Tamarind adds an intentionally sour note to this dish. It’s one of those ingredients that is a great investment of flavour – but remember, a little goes a long way. Paired with aubergine and black rice, you have a sophisticated recipe, ideal for entertaining.
A LITTLE EFFORT
SERVES 8 PREP 40 mins plus chilling and cooling COOK 1 hr 20 mins
FOR THE PASTRY 200g/7oz plain four, plus extra for dusting 50g/2oz walnuts (shelled weight) 50g/2oz cold butter, chopped into small pieces 25g/1oz vegetarian hard cheese (or Parmesan if you’re not making a strictly vegetarian version), grated 1 medium egg, beaten FOR THE FILLING 1 tbsp olive oil 6 shallots, sliced 3 large garlic cloves, fnely chopped 1 whole egg and 2 egg yolks 200ml/7oz double cream 140g/5oz vegetarian Taleggio, rind removed, cut into 1cm/1/2in chunks 1 punnet cress zest 1 lemon, plus extra to serve
1 To make the pastry, whizz the four and walnuts in a food processor until the walnuts are very fne. Add the butter and cheese and whizz again until the mixture resembles breadcrumbs. Add the beaten egg and 1 tsp cold water. Pulse until the mixture forms a dough, adding a little more water if needed. Wrap in cling flm and chill for 30 mins. 2 Heat oven to 200C/180C fan/gas 6. On a lightly foured surface, roll out the pastry to the thickness of a 50p piece and use it to line a 23cm tart tin. Prick the base several times with a fork and return to the fridge to chill for a further 15 mins. (Don’t be tempted to skip this step – it will help prevent any shrinkage.) 3 Heat the olive oil in a frying pan over a medium heat and add the shallots and garlic. Fry for 5-10 mins until the shallots have softened and are golden. Remove from the heat and allow to cool slightly. 4 Line your pastry with baking parchment, fll with baking beans and bake for 15 mins. Remove the parchment and return to the oven for a further 10 mins – this will allow the base to dry out before you add the flling. Reduce oven to 160C/140C fan/gas 3. 5 Crack the egg into a medium-sized mixing bowl and add the yolks. Beat lightly with a fork before pouring in the cream. Stir in the shallots and garlic, as well as three-quarters of the Talegio, three-quarters of the cress and the lemon zest. Season. 6 Pour the mixture into the tart case, add the remaining cheese and season with pepper. 7 Bake for 40-50 mins until the flling is set and feels frm to the touch. Remove from the oven and allow to cool for 10 mins. Scatter over the remaining cress and lemon zest. PER SERVING energy 424 kcals • fat 33g • saturates 17g • carbs 20g • sugars 2g • fibre 2g • protein 11g • salt 0.6g
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EASY
LOW LOW FOLATE FIBRE VIT C IRON 1 OF 5 FAT CAL A DAY
SERVES 4 PREP 25 mins COOK 40 mins
2 large aubergines 4 tsp tamarind paste 2 tsp sesame oil 1 red chilli, deseeded and thinly sliced 1 tbsp sesame seeds 200g/7oz black rice 6 spring onions, fnely sliced 100g/4oz feta, crumbled 2 small packs mint, roughly chopped small pack coriander, roughly chopped, reserving a few leaves, to serve zest 1 large lime FOR THE DRESSING 2 tbsp dark soy sauce juice 1 lime 5cm/2in piece ginger, peeled and fnely grated (juices and all) pinch of sugar
Food writer Georgina Fuggle lives in Brighton with her family. Her new book, Take One Veg (£15.99, Kyle Books), is out now. You can buy the book for just £13.99. Call 01326 569444, p&p is free. Or buy online at sparkledirect.com/ goodfood
1 Heat oven to 200C/180C fan/gas 6. Cut the aubergines in half lengthways and, with the tip of a knife, score the fesh deeply in a criss-cross diamond pattern – but don’t pierce the skin. Press on the edges of the halves to open the cuts. In a small bowl, combine the tamarind paste and sesame oil. Brush the mixture over the aubergine, pushing it into the cuts. Place on a baking tray, sprinkle over the chilli and sesame seeds, then roast, cut-side up, for 25-35 mins or until the fesh is really soft. 2 Put the rice in a small sieve and wash under running water for 1 min until the water runs clear. Tip the rice into a small saucepan and add 650ml cold water. Bring to the boil, reduce the heat and simmer for about 35 mins until the rice is tender. Drain under cold running water. 3 Make the dressing by whisking all the ingredients together with a pinch of salt. Adjust the seasoning to taste, adding a little more sugar, salt or lime juice, if you like. 4 In a big bowl, mix together the black rice, spring onions, feta, mint, chopped coriander, and the lime zest and dressing. Sprinkle the reserved coriander leaves over the aubergine halves and serve with the rice. PER SERVING energy 355 kcals • fat 10g • saturates 4g • carbs 46g • sugars 11g • fibre 11g • protein 16g • salt 2.3g
Roasted caulifower with spring veg & barley salad Here, cauliflower florets are simply roasted with olive oil and their delicate flavour is allowed to sing next to a fresh, light barley salad. You can use normal barley, but follow pack instructions for cooking time. EASY
LOW CALCIUM FOLATE FIBRE VIT C 3 OF 5 CAL A DAY
GOOD 4 YOU
SERVES 4 PREP 40 mins COOK 30 mins
1 large head of caulifower, broken into forets 3 tbsp olive oil 140g/5oz quick-cook barley (or use normal barley but allow extra time to cook) 6 shallots, fnely chopped 2 garlic cloves 200g/7oz asparagus tips 1kg/2lb 4oz fresh broad beans or 200g/7oz podded or frozen weight zest 1 large lemon 1 /2 small pack parsley, fnely chopped 1 /2 small pack dill, chopped FOR THE DRESSING 3 tbsp olive oil 2 lemons, 1 juiced, 1 cut into wedges to serve FOR THE YOGURT 100g/4oz Greek yogurt 1 /2 small pack dill, fnely chopped, plus extra, to serve
1 Heat oven to 220C/200C fan/gas 7 and boil the kettle. Put the caulifower in a large roasting tin and add 2 tbsp olive oil and a generous pinch of salt. Mix to coat, then roast for 20-30 mins, shaking the tin halfway through cooking. 2 Meanwhile, put the barley in a small saucepan and cover with boiling water. Simmer for 10-15 mins until soft, then drain and allow to cool slightly before emptying into a large bowl. Heat the remaining olive oil in a medium frying pan and add the shallots and garlic. Fry gently for 5-10 mins until the shallots begin to caramelise, then add to the warm barley. 3 Add the asparagus to a saucepan of boiling water and simmer for 3-4 mins. Remove with a slotted spoon and run under cold water – this prevents overcooking and retains the bright green colour. Roughly chop into 2cm lengths and add to the shallots and barley. 4 Add the broad beans to the simmering water for 2-3 mins until the beans are just tender. Drain and run under cold water before popping the bright green beans from their skins. Add the beans and most of the lemon zest to the barley salad, then stir through the parsley and dill. 5 Put the dressing ingredients in a jam jar with a pinch of salt, shake together and pour over the barley salad just before serving. In a separate bowl, mix together the yogurt and dill. 6 Season the caulifower with black pepper, and serve with the barley salad and the dill yogurt and lemon wedges on the side. PER SERVING energy 448 kcals • fat 21g • saturates 4g • carbs 44g • sugars 8g • fibre 11g • protein 15g • salt 0.4g
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Weekend Gnocchi with parsley, butter & samphire I’m not the greatest forager, however, samphire is an exception. You can find it growing on beaches, standing tall amongst the sand, asking to be cooked. So this recipe is an outlet for your inner forager. A LITTLE EFFORT
1 OF 5 FOLATE FIBRE VIT C A DAY
SERVES 4 PREP 1 hr COOK 15 mins
900g/2lb foury potatoes, roughly the same size or halved if large, unpeeled 50g/2oz salted butter 1 medium egg, beaten 225-280g/8-10oz plain white four FOR THE SAUCE 100g/4oz salted butter
6 shallots, fnely sliced 3 garlic cloves, fnely chopped 200g/7oz samphire 2 small packs parsley, chopped
1 To make the gnocchi, cook the potatoes in boiling water for 40-50 mins until very tender, then drain well. Peel away the skin and press through a sieve or a potato ricer into a bowl. 2 While the potatoes are still warm, add 1 tsp salt, the butter, egg and half the four. Lightly mix together and turn out onto a foured board. Gradually knead in enough of the remaining four to make a smooth, soft but slightly sticky dough. 3 Roll out the dough into sausages, 2.5cm in diameter. Cut into roughly 2cm pieces and put on a foured tea towel to prevent the gnocchi sticking together.
4 Bring a large pan of water to the boil. Drop the gnocchi into the water in batches and allow to cook for 2-3 mins until they foat to the surface. Remove with a slotted spoon and keep hot while you cook the rest. 5 Meanwhile, gently heat the butter in a large heavy-based pan, add the shallots and garlic, and gently soften for 5-6 mins. Add the samphire and cook for 4-6 mins more. 6 Add the gnocchi to the pan with most of the parsley. Gently toss everything together and season. Serve immediately, scattered with the rest of the parsley. PER SERVING energy 727 kcals • fat 34g • saturates 20g • carbs 85g • sugars 4g • fibre 10g • protein 14g • salt 1.9g
Try making your own
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Bank Holiday baking Sometimes the best bakes are the easiest ones to whip up – nothing fancy, but guaranteed to please. Sara Buenfeld’s simple yet scrumptious cakes and bakes hit the spot Photographs WILL HEAP
EACH RECIPE READY IN
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Blackcurrant coconut slices
Cheese & Marmite scones
Double ginger cookies
If you don’t have blackcurrant jam, you can use another tangy one such as raspberry, blackberry or gooseberry. A reduced-sugar jam that contains a high proportion of fruit will also work.
Marmite gives a deep savoury flavour to these tasty pinwheel cheese scones.
EASY
450g/1lb plain four, plus extra for dusting 1 tbsp baking powder 3 tsp Marmite 1 large egg about 250ml/9f oz milk 1 tbsp sunfower oil 140g/5oz mature cheddar, grated 100g/4oz full-fat cream cheese
These American-style cookies are a fabulous combination of dark chocolate, ground ginger and chunks of stem ginger. You can freeze half the dough once you’ve shaped it, then thaw, slice and bake on another occasion. If you prefer classic ginger nuts, shape the dough to make smaller biscuits and leave out the stem ginger and chocolate.
MAKES 12 PREP 25 mins plus cooling COOK 25 mins
FOR THE BASE 100g/4oz butter, plus extra for greasing 100g/4oz plain four 100g/4oz white caster sugar 85g/3oz desiccated coconut 3 large egg yolks (save the whites for the topping) 4-5 tbsp blackcurrant jam (with whole blackcurrants) FOR THE TOPPING 3 large egg whites 75g/21/2oz white caster sugar 50g/2oz desiccated coconut handful coconut fakes (optional)
1 Heat oven to 180C/160C fan/gas 4. Grease a 20 x 23cm traybake tin with a little butter and line the base with a long strip of baking parchment that extends above the rim of the tin at either end – this will make it easier to get the slices out of the tin later. 2 To make the base, tip the four, sugar and coconut into a bowl, mix everything together, then rub in the butter with your fngers to make coarse crumbs. Stir in the egg yolks with the blade of a knife, then bring the mixture together with your hands to make a dough. Press the dough into the base of the tin, smoothing it with the back of a spoon to make an even layer. Spread the jam over most of the dough, keeping it a little bit away from the sides of the tin. 3 To make the topping, whisk the egg whites with an electric hand whisk until stiff, then gradually add the sugar to make a glossy meringue. Fold in the desiccated coconut, then spoon over the jam layer. Scatter with the coconut fakes, if using, and bake for 25 mins until golden. 4 Leave to cool in the tin, then carefully lift out, using the parchment to help you, and cut into slices. Will keep in an airtight container for 2 days. PER SLICE energy 257 kcals • fat 15g • saturates 11g • carbs 26g • sugars 20g • fibre 2g • protein 3g • salt 0.2g
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MAKES 8 PREP 20 mins plus cooling COOK 12-15 mins
1 Heat oven to 220C/200C fan/gas 7 and dust a baking tray with a little four. Mix the four and baking powder in a large bowl. Put 1 tsp Marmite in a jug, add the egg and make up to 300ml with the milk. Stir in the oil, then beat really well to dissolve the Marmite. 2 Tip 85g of the cheddar into a bowl and mix with the cream cheese and remaining Marmite to make a spread. Toss the rest of the cheese though the four mixture, then pour in the milk mixture and stir with the blade of a knife until it comes together. (You need to work quickly once you’ve added the liquid, as it activates the baking powder.) Tip onto a lightly foured work surface and gently knead the mix, taking care not to overwork it, as it will make the scones heavy. 3 Press or lightly roll the dough into an oblong about 20 x 25cm. Spread with the Marmite mixture and roll up from the longest side to create a tight, fat cylinder. Pat the ends of the cylinder to straighten them, then slice into 8 pinwheels and put on the baking tray, patting them to make fattish rounds. Bake for 12-15 mins until golden and cooked. 4 Leave for a few mins on the tray to allow the cheese centre to harden a little, then transfer to a wire rack to cool. Eat warm or cold. Best eaten on the day they are made. PER SCONE energy 370 kcals • fat 15g • saturates 8g • carbs 44g • sugars 2g • fibre 2g • protein 13g • salt 1.1g
Taste team comment ‘The scones were really light and delicious, but then I love cheese and Marmite! The dough was very easy to handle and rolled really well – the pinwheels kept their shape and looked fantastic when cooked.’ JULIA
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uncooked dough or baked without chocolate MAKES 24 PREP 20 mins plus chilling COOK 12 mins
350g/12oz plain four 1 tbsp ground ginger 1 tsp bicarbonate of soda 175g/6oz light muscovado sugar 100g/4oz butter, chopped 8 pieces of stem ginger, chopped (not too fnely), plus thin slices, to decorate (optional) 1 large egg 4 tbsp golden syrup 200g bar dark chocolate, chopped
1 Mix the four, ground ginger, bicarbonate of soda, 1/2 tsp salt and sugar in a bowl, then rub in the butter to make crumbs. Stir in the chopped stem ginger. 2 Beat together the egg and syrup, pour into the dry ingredients and stir, then knead with your hands to make a dough. Cut the dough in half and shape each piece into a thick sausage about 6cm across, making sure that the ends are straight. Wrap in cling flm and chill for 20 mins. You can now freeze all or part of the dough for 2 months. 3 Heat oven to 180C/160C fan/gas 4 and line 2 baking sheets with baking parchment. Thickly slice each sausage into 12 and put the slices on the baking sheets, spacing them well apart and reshaping any, if necessary, to make rounds. Bake for 12 mins, then leave to cool for a few mins to harden before transferring to a wire rack to cool completely. 4 Melt the chocolate in a bowl over a pan of gently simmering water, making sure that the water isn’t touching the bottom of the bowl. Dip half of each cookie into the chocolate – you may need to spoon it over when you get to the fnal few. Decorate with a slice of ginger, if you like, and leave to set. Will keep for 1 week in an airtight container. PER COOKIE energy 180 kcals • fat 7g • saturates 4g • carbs 25g • sugars 13g • fibre 2g • protein 2g • salt 0.2g
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Weekend St Clement’s curd muffns Using an ice cream scoop to transfer the mixture to the cases ensures that the muffins are all the same size. EASY
MAKES 9 PREP 20 mins plus cooling COOK 15-20 mins
200g/7oz plain four 140g/5oz white caster sugar, plus 11/2 tbsp 1 tsp baking powder 1 /4 tsp bicarbonate of soda fnely grated zest and juice of 1 small orange (about 85ml/3f oz juice) 1 tbsp sunfower oil 1 /2 tsp vanilla extract 150g pot plain yogurt 1 large egg 9 tsp lemon curd
1 Heat oven to 200C/180C fan/gas 6 and line a muffn tin with 9 paper cases. Tip the four, 140g sugar, the baking powder and bicarbonate of soda into a bowl, and mix together with a fork. 2 Stir together 1/2 tsp orange zest and 11/2 tbsp sugar and set aside. Whisk together the orange juice and remaining zest, the oil, vanilla, yogurt and egg with a fork until well blended. Lightly stir into the four mixture until just combined. Using an ice cream scoop, spoon the mixture into the muffn cases (there will be some left over). Put 1 tsp curd in the centre of each and just cover with the remaining muffn mixture. Bake for 15-20 mins until frm and pale golden. 3 Remove from the oven and sprinkle over the orange sugar. Leave to cool on a wire rack. Will keep for 4 days in the fridge – return to room temperature to serve. PER MUFFIN energy 215 kcals • fat 3g • saturates 1g • carbs 42g • sugars 24g • fibre 1g • protein 4g • salt 0.3g
The lemon curd centres are a delicious surprise
These brownies, made with black beans instead of flour, have a subtle tingle of chilli and are intensely chocolatey. They’re also gluten-free and, warm from the oven, would pass as a dessert. EASY GLUTEN FREE
MAKES 16-20 PREP 20 mins plus cooling COOK 25-30 mins
sunfower oil, for greasing 2 x 400g cans black beans, drained 1 tbsp vanilla extract 6 large eggs 200g/7oz soft butter, chopped 200g/7oz light muscovado sugar 100g/4oz cocoa powder 2 tsp gluten-free baking powder 85g/3oz chilli-favoured chocolate (or plain chocolate), chopped into chunks
1 Heat oven to 180C/160C fan/gas 4. Lightly grease a 20 x 30cm brownie tin and line
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with baking parchment. Blitz the beans and vanilla, 1/2 tsp salt and 2 eggs with a stick blender until completely smooth. 2 Put the butter and sugar in a bowl with the cocoa and remaining eggs, and beat with an electric whisk until creamy. Start off slowly, then increase the speed as you mix (so you don’t get covered with cocoa!). Beat in the baking powder, then stir in the bean mixture and fold in the chocolate chunks. 3 Scrape the mixture into the tin with a spatula, level it and bake for 25 mins until frm to the touch. Leave to cool, then cut into squares. Will keep for a few days in a tin at room temperature, and 1 week in the fridge.
Food styling SARAH COOK | Styling JENNY IGGLEDEN
Chilli chocolate & black bean brownies
PER BROWNIE (20) energy 202 kcals • fat 13g • saturates 7g • carbs 15g • sugars 11g • fibre 3g • protein 5g • salt 0.6g
Taste team comment ‘This was simple, clear and quick – the favour was delicious and the texture was perfect, like something you’d buy in an upmarket bakery.’ MO
bbcgoodfood.com
May 2015
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Sunshine& Eating outdoors is a pleasure when the sun is out – all you need is food to suit the occasion and the company. These new prepare-ahead recipes will fit the bill Recipes CASSIE BEST Photographs SAM STOWELL
POSH PICNIC FOR TWO
If friends are joining you, just add a shop-bought pork pie plus some olives and cheese to keep everyone satisfied.
Smoked salmon & poppy seed palmiers
Asparagus & prosciutto bundles with goat’s cheese & hazelnut dip
EASY
EASY
uncooked MAKES 10 PREP 25 mins COOK 25 mins
320g sheet puff pastry 1 egg, beaten 1 tbsp poppy seeds 5 tbsp cream cheese 100g/4oz smoked salmon small bunch chives, snipped
1 Unroll the pastry and brush one side all over with the beaten egg. Sprinkle over the poppy seeds, then fip over the pastry. Spread the cream cheese over the pastry and top with the smoked salmon, then scatter over the chives. With one of the longer sides facing you, mark a line roughly down the centre, but don’t cut all the way through. Tightly roll each end in towards the middle until you reach the centre. Slice into 1cm-thick pieces and place, cut-side up, on a baking tray lined with baking parchment. Chill until ready to bake, or freeze for up to 2 months. 2 Heat oven to 200C/180C fan/gas 6. Bake for 20-25 mins until puffed up and golden brown (if baking from frozen, cook for an extra 5 mins). Leave to cool on a wire rack before packing for your picnic. PER PALMIER energy 179 kcals • fat 12g • saturates 6g • carbs 11g • sugars none • fibre none • protein 6g • salt 0.8g
MAKES 6 PREP 20 mins COOK 5 mins
18 asparagus spears, woody ends removed drizzle olive or rapeseed oil 6 slices prosciutto handful rocket leaves 12 semi-dried tomatoes FOR THE DIP 100g/4oz cream cheese 100g/4oz soft rindless goat’s cheese 1 tbsp milk 6-8 toasted hazelnuts, chopped
1 Heat a griddle pan. Drizzle the asparagus with a little oil, season and cook for 3-4 mins, rolling around the pan until just tender. Leave to cool. 2 Lay a slice of prosciutto on your chopping board. Put 3 asparagus spears on top, with the tips poking out the end, then top with a few rocket leaves and 2 semi-dried tomatoes. Roll up the prosciutto tightly to enclose the flling and put in a sealable container for transporting. Continue until all the ingredients are used up. 3 Mash the cream cheese and goat’s cheese together in a bowl with a fork. Season and add enough milk to make a smooth consistency, into which you can dip the bundles. Transfer to a pot for travelling and sprinkle over the hazelnuts. PER BUNDLE energy 210 kcals • fat 16g • saturates 9g • carbs 4g • sugars 3g • fibre 2g • protein 12g • salt 1.3g
Elderfower & cucumber G&Ts EASY GLUTEN FREE
MAKES 4 PREP 10 mins NO COOK
Peel 2 long strips from a 10cm piece of cucumber and put in a small tupperware for transporting. Grate the remaining cucumber into a sieve set over a bowl and press down on it with the back of a spoon to extract as much juice as possible. Add 100ml elderfower cordial and 100ml gin
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to the cucumber juice and put in a bottle ready for travelling. At your picnic, wind the strips of cucumber around inside 2 glasses, pour in a quarter of the cucumber gin mixture, and top up with with a quarter of a 1 litre bottle tonic water to serve. PER G&T energy 199 kcals • fat none • saturates none • carbs 33g • sugars 17g • fibre none • protein none • salt none
bbcgoodfood.com
Raspberry & coconut scones If you want to mix fruit into your scones, it’s a good idea to freeze the fruit first or buy it ready-frozen. That way, it won’t break up too much as you mix it into the soft dough. EASY
MAKES 4 PREP 25 mins COOK 15 mins
200g/7oz self-raising four, plus a little for dusting 25g/1oz desiccated coconut, plus 1 tbsp for sprinkling 50g/2oz cold unsalted butter, cut into small cubes 25g/1oz golden caster sugar 100ml/31/2f oz buttermilk 1-2 tbsp full-fat milk 50g/2oz frozen raspberries, any large ones halved 1 egg, beaten clotted cream and jam or curd (passion fruit curd is nice with these scones), to serve
1 Heat oven to 220C/200C fan/gas 7 and dust a baking tray with a little four. Put the remaining four in a bowl with the coconut and 1/4 tsp salt. Add the butter and rub in with your fngertips until the texture resembles fne breadcrumbs. Add the sugar and mix again, then pour in the buttermilk and 1 tbsp milk. Mix with a knife until the mixture has almost come together, then add the raspberries and mix again, trying not to break up the fruit too much. Add the remaining milk if the mixture seems too dry. 2 Tip onto a work surface and knead the dough a little to bring it together and even out any dry patches – don’t overwork it or the scones will be heavy. Pat the dough into a square about 4-5cm deep. Cut into 4 pieces, roughly shaping them back into squares if they’ve lost their shape. 3 Place on a baking tray, brush with egg and bake for 15 mins until golden and risen. Leave to cool on a wire rack. Pack clotted cream and jam or curd to serve with the scones. Best eaten on the day they are made. PER SCONE energy 365 kcals • fat 16g • saturates 10g • carbs 45g • sugars 9g • fibre 4g • protein 8g • salt 0.6g
May 2015
Weekend
Asparagus & prosciutto bundles with goat’s cheese & hazelnut dip
Elderflower & cucumber G&Ts Smoked salmon & poppy seed palmiers
Raspberry & coconut scones
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LIGHTER PICNIC FOR SIX
A pork pie that’s positively good for you and a fabulous low-fat dessert – this spread is full of flavour, but with fewer calories than you’d think.
Pastry-less pork pie 1 OF 5 GOOD A LITTLE EFFORT A DAY 4 YOU
SERVES 6-8 PREP 55 mins plus cooling COOK 1 hr 15 mins
4-5 large courgettes 1 tbsp olive or rapeseed oil, plus a drizzle 50g/2oz dried breadcrumbs, plus 2 tbsp 1 red onion, fnely chopped 2 garlic cloves, crushed 290g jar red peppers, drained and chopped small bunch parsley, chopped zest 1 lemon 1 large egg 500g/1lb 2oz minced pork 2 tsp each chilli fakes and fennel seeds
1 Cut the courgettes lengthways into thin slices (use a mandolin if you have one), stopping when you reach the seedy middle (set this aside). Heat a griddle pan. Toss the courgettes in a little oil to coat, then cook in batches until soft and marked with griddle lines. Drizzle a little oil into an 18cm springform tin and brush all over the base and sides. Line the base with a circle of baking parchment. Use the courgettes to line the tin, overlapping them across the base, up the sides and over the edge – you need enough overhang to cover the top and the flling, so you may need to double up on slices up the sides. Scatter 2 tbsp breadcrumbs over the base. 2 Heat the oil in a large frying pan. Add the onion and cook for 5 mins until softened a little. Meanwhile, fnely chop the centre pieces of courgette and add to the pan with the garlic. Cook for about 5 mins until the courgette has softened, then set aside to cool. 3 Heat oven to 180C/160C fan/gas 4. Mix the cooled veg, the peppers, parsley, lemon zest, breadcrumbs, egg, pork, chilli, fennel seeds and plenty of seasoning in a bowl. Pack the mixture into the courgette-lined tin, pressing it frmly into the edges and fattening the top – try not to move the courgette slices too much. Fold over the overhanging courgettes to cover the top of the pie and press down frmly. 4 Place the tin on a baking tray – some juice may leak out of the tin so you will need the tray to catch this. Bake for 1 hr 15 mins – if you have a meat thermometer, the temperature should read at least 70C. Cool in the tin for 10 mins. 5 Remove the pie from the tin, pouring away any juices, and fip over so that the neater side is facing up. Remove the baking parchment and leave to cool completely, then store in the fridge. Transport in a cooler bag and serve in wedges.
Fennel, pomegranate & broad bean salad EASY
OF 5 GOOD FOLATE FIBRE VIT C IRON 2 A DAY 4 YOU
SERVES 6 PREP 25 mins NO COOK
200g/7oz bulghar wheat small bunch each mint, parsley and dill, fnely chopped 1 fennel bulb, quartered, core removed and thinly sliced 200g/7oz pomegranate seeds 350g/12oz (weight before skinning) fresh or frozen broad beans 2 tbsp pumpkin seeds large handful rocket or watercress FOR THE DRESSING zest and juice 1 lemon 5 tbsp extra virgin rapeseed or olive oil 2 tbsp cider vinegar 1 tbsp Dijon mustard
1 Boil the kettle and put the bulghar wheat in a bowl with a good pinch of salt. Pour over enough boiling water to just cover the bulghar, cover with cling flm and set aside for 10 mins. 2 Put the ingredients for the dressing in a jam jar or small bottle with some seasoning, screw on the lid and shake well. Uncover the bulghar wheat and, if there is any water left in the bowl, drain the bulghar, then tip into a large container for transporting. Add the herbs, fennel, pomegranate seeds, broad beans and pumpkin seeds, and toss everything together. Top with the salad leaves and pack the jam jar of salad dressing separately. 3 Before serving, drizzle over the dressing and toss everything together. PER SERVING energy 335 kcals • fat 13g • saturates 2g • carbs 38g • sugars 6g • fibre 9g • protein 11g • salt 0.3g
Rosy spritzers EASY GLUTEN FREE
MAKES as many as you like PREP 2 mins NO COOK
Pimm’s jelly jars I’ve added a thin layer of set cream to the top of these jellies for a touch of indulgence, but to make these fat-free, simply leave it off. 1 OF 5 GLUTEN A LITTLE EFFORT LOW FAT VIT C A DAY FREE
MAKES 6 PREP 20 mins plus at least 5 hrs cooling and chilling COOK 5 mins
9 gelatine leaves 600ml/1pt apple juice 4 tbsp golden caster sugar 250ml/9f oz Pimm’s 6 strawberries, hulled and chopped 298g can mandarin segments in juice, drained 200ml/7f oz single cream 100ml/31/2f oz semi-skimmed milk 6 thin slices of cucumber and mint sprigs, to serve (optional)
1 Put 7 gelatine leaves in a bowl of cold water and set aside to soften for 5 mins. Meanwhile, heat the apple juice in a small pan with half the sugar until steaming. Remove from the heat, squeeze out the water from the gelatine, then add it to the pan, 1 leaf at a time, stirring until dissolved. Add the Pimm’s and stir again. 2 Divide the strawberries and mandarin segments between 6 jam jars, pour over the apple juice and Pimm’s mixture , then put in the fridge to set for at least 4 hrs. 3 When the jelly has set, soften the remaining gelatine as before. Heat the cream, milk and remaining sugar in a pan until steaming. Squeeze out the water from the gelatine, add it to the pan and mix well. Set aside to cool for 10 mins. Pour the cream mixture over the jellies, then chill for 1 hr. 4 Top each jelly with a slice of cucumber and a small sprig of mint. Pack into a cooler bag for transporting. Can be made 1 day before serving. PER JAR energy 278 kcals • fat 7g • saturates 4g • carbs 27g • sugars 27g • fibre 1g • protein 4g • salt 0.1g PER JAR (without the set cream layer) energy 177 kcals • fat none • saturates none • carbs 19g • sugars 19g • fibre none • protein 2g • salt none
Mix equal quantities of chilled rosé wine and pink raspberry lemonade. Add a dash of rosewater, if you like. Put a few raspberries in each glass before topping up with the spritzer mix. PER SPRITZER energy 70 kcals • fat none • saturates none • carbs 6g • sugars 6g • fibre none • protein none • salt none
PER SERVING (8) energy 178 kcals • fat 9g • saturates 3g • carbs 8g • sugars 2g • fibre 1g • protein 16g • salt 0.2g
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Weekend
Pastry-less pork pie
Fennel, pomegranate & broad bean salad Rosy spritzers
Pimm’s jelly jars
May 2015
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All glutenfree!
FAMILY PICNIC FOR FOUR
Fuss-free food that can be assembled in a flash, so you and the kids can be out of the door within the hour. Even better, the recipes are all gluten-free!
Creamy beetroot houmous EASY
1 OF 5 GLUTEN FOLATE A DAY FREE
SERVES 4 PREP 10 mins NO COOK
400g can chickpeas, drained 200g pack cooked beetroot (not in vinegar), drained 2 tbsp tahini zest 1 lemon, plus juice 1/2 1 small garlic clove, roughly chopped 4 tbsp Greek yogurt 3 tbsp extra virgin olive or rapeseed oil 1 tbsp pine nuts, toasted (optional) vegetable sticks, to serve
Tip the chickpeas, beetroot, tahini, lemon zest and juice, garlic, yogurt and 21/2 tbsp oil into a food processor. Season well, and blend, scraping down the sides after 30 secs or so, then blend again until smooth. Transfer to a pot or jar with a lid, drizzle with the remaining oil and scatter over the pine nuts. Serve with crunchy vegetable sticks. PER SERVING energy 285 kcals • fat 19g • saturates 5g • carbs 16g • sugars 6g • fibre 5g • protein 10g • salt 0.6g
Squash, pea & feta frittatinis EASY
Coronation drumsticks
Blueberry & mint iced tea
EASY GLUTEN FREE
GLUTEN EASY LOW FAT FREE
SERVES 4 PREP 10 mins plus marinating COOK 40 mins
SERVES 4 PREP 10 mins NO COOK
140g/5oz Greek yogurt 2 tbsp mild curry powder (make sure it’s a gluten-free variety) 3 tbsp mango chutney (one without too many chunks) 2 tsp black sesame or nigella seeds 8 chicken drumsticks
1 Heat oven to 200C/180C fan/gas 6. Line a large baking tray with foil. In a large bowl, mix together the yogurt, curry powder, chutney and seeds, then season. Add the chicken and toss everything to coat. You can now leave it to marinate for up to 48 hrs, or you can cook it straight away. 2 Arrange the chicken on the baking tray (save any marinade in the bowl) and cook for 40 mins. Turn the chicken halfway through, brush with the remaining marinade and continue cooking. Leave to cool for at least 10 mins, or completely if you have time, then pack into a container. Chill until ready to transport in a cooler bag. PER SERVING energy 300 kcals • fat 15g • saturates 5g • carbs 8g • sugars 6g • fibre 1g • protein 32g • salt 0.8g
5 peppermint tea bags 140g/5oz blueberries 2 tbsp golden caster sugar large handful ice handful mint leaves a few lemon slices
1 Boil the kettle and put the tea bags in a jug. Pour over 500ml boiling water and leave to steep for 5 mins. Meanwhile, put 100g blueberries in a jug, add the sugar and lightly crush with the end of a rolling pin or a potato masher. Remove the tea bags from the water, pour the tea over the blueberries and top up with another 300ml cold water. Add a large handful of ice to cool quickly, or chill until cold. 2 When you’re ready to pack your picnic, pour the iced tea into bottles or fasks. Add a few sprigs of fresh mint, some lemon slices and the remaining blueberries. Seal and store in a cooler bag. PER SERVING energy 69 kcals • fat none • saturates none • carbs 16g • sugars 14g • fibre 1g • protein none • salt none
GLUTEN FREE
MAKES 8 PREP 20 mins plus cooling COOK 25 mins
1 Heat oven to 200C/180C fan/gas 6. Put the butternut squash in a bowl, cover with cling flm and cook in the microwave on High for 5-7 mins until tender. Meanwhile, line 8 holes of a muffn tin with squares of baking parchment – allow a little overhang at the top as the frittatinis will puff up. 2 Divide the squash, peas and feta between the lined muffn holes – they should be quite full. Beat the eggs in a jug with some seasoning, then pour into the muffn holes. Put the tin in the centre of the oven and bake for 20 mins. Leave to cool for about 15 mins before packing into a cooler bag for transporting, or chill for up to 24 hrs.
PACK UP & GO! Enamel mug, £9.95, annabeljames.co.uk
Plastic picnic bowls and plates, £1 each; 12-piece cutlery set, £3, tesco.com
Gisela Graham pastel gingham napkins, £4 for 20, tch.net
Recycled plastic storage bag, 48 x 55cm, £7.50, ellieellie.co.uk
PER FRITTATINI energy 83 kcals • fat 5g • saturates 5g • carbs 3g • sugars 1g • fibre 1g • protein 5g • salt 0.6g
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Floral Fiesta 22cm picnic plates, £2.99 for 12, candleandcake.co.uk
Kissing Rabbits picnic blanket, 145 x 145cm, £35.95, annabeljames.co.uk
bbcgoodfood.com
May 2015
Food styling SARAH COOK | Styling SARAH BIRKS
250g/9oz butternut squash, peeled, deseeded and chopped into small pieces 25g/1oz frozen peas 100g/4oz feta, crumbled 4 large eggs
Weekend
Blueberry & mint iced tea
Coronation drumsticks
Creamy beetroot houmous
Squash, pea & feta frittatinis
May 2015
bbcgoodfood.com
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Thrifty food for friends
Feed six people for less than
£30
Chef Richard Corrigan, a regular judge on BBC Two’s Great British Menu, creates a special three-course menu that will cost you less than £5 per person – cheaper than a restaurant starter! Photographs SAM STOWELL
‘I grew up on a farm in Ireland where the food was plentiful and hearty, and consequently there has always been a generosity to my cooking, no matter how smart the dining room that showcases it. ‘The sign of a great cook is how well they do when limited to a budget, and just how creative they can be with cheaper ingredients. ‘With this menu, I’ve taken humble but seasonal ingredients and given them a few chef’s touches to create three courses you can cook for a group of friends without having to blow the budget. The starter and dessert can be made ahead, so you can enjoy yourself on the night too.’ Richard Corrigan was born in Dublin and brought up on a 25-acre farm. He has been involved in the Great British Menu from the start – the tenth series is on BBC Two later this year. Richard is chef/patron of Corrigan’s Mayfair, Bentley’s Oyster Bar and Grill, and Bentley’s Sea Grill in Harrods.
Want to get ahead? n You can make the jelly
two days ahead and the custard a day in advance. n The soup can be made the day before and reheated. n The dumplings can be made a day in advance. Roll, cover and leave in the fridge, ready to be cooked in the soup. n You can make the brine for the chops a day ahead. n Brine the chops for an hour before cooking.
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s ing mpl u Wate d rcress soup with bacon
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May 2015
Weekend
SPRING MENU FOR 6 Watercress soup with bacon dumplings Herb-brined pork chops Spiced fried potatoes & green beans Tipsy rhubarb & blood orange jelly
Herb-brined pork chops
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To turn a bowl of soup from a light lunch into a dinner party starter, it needs an interesting garnish – these bacon dumplings are just the thing. 1 OF 5 EASY LOW FAT FIBRE VIT C A DAY
soup only SERVES 6 PREP 30 mins COOK 30 mins £1.15 per serving
25g/1oz butter 2 garlic cloves, crushed 2 onions, fnely chopped 4 large foury potatoes (about 800g/ 1lb 12oz), chopped into small cubes 200g/7oz watercress, leaves picked and stalks chopped 2 tbsp fresh horseradish, grated (about 25g/1oz unpeeled weight) 1.5 litres/23/4 pints vegetable stock olive oil, for drizzling (optional) FOR THE DUMPLINGS 8 streaky bacon rashers, fnely chopped 3 tbsp fresh breadcrumbs small pack fat-leaf parsley, fnely chopped
Herb-brined pork chops Pork chops are hard to cook properly – you don’t want pork underdone, but cook them too much and they become dry. Soaking them in a brine not only tenderises the meat but also plumps it up, making it much more succulent.
Find more inspiring money-saving recipes and ideas at bbcgoodfood.com/ feature/budget
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1 To make the dumplings, mix the bacon with the breadcrumbs and parsley. Shape into 18 balls – the bacon fat will hold the dumplings together. Cover and put in the fridge. 2 Melt the butter in a large saucepan over a medium heat. Add the garlic and onions, and cook for 10 mins until soft. Add the potatoes, watercress stalks and horseradish, and cook for a few mins more, then add the stock and bring everything to a simmer. 3 When the potatoes are tender (this should take 8-10 mins), stir in most of the watercress leaves, put the dumplings into the soup and let them poach for 3-4 mins or until cooked through. 4 Gently lift out the dumplings with a slotted spoon and put to one side. Whizz the soup in a blender and season. Divide between 6 bowls and top each with 3 dumplings. Drizzle with olive oil, if you like, and serve with the reserved watercress leaves on top and plenty of black pepper. PER SERVING energy 306 kcals • fat 12g • saturates 5g • carbs 34g • sugars 6g • fibre 6g • protein 12g • salt 2.2g
Spiced fried potatoes & green beans Chilli, garlic and coriander add a real punch to this side dish. If you prefer something more subtle, then the fried potatoes without the beans or aromatics makes a perfectly good side.
EASY GLUTEN FREE
EASY
SERVES 6 PREP 10 mins plus brining COOK 35-40 mins £1.16 per serving
SERVES 6 PREP 15 mins COOK 30 mins 82p per serving
6 pork chops FOR THE BRINE 140g/5oz demerara sugar 200g/7oz sea salt 1 tbsp pink peppercorns 1 tbsp juniper berries 1 tbsp coriander seeds 2 bay leaves 2 thyme sprigs
800g/1lb 12oz foury potatoes, cut into thick slices 200g/7oz fne green beans, trimmed 100ml/31/2f oz sunfower oil 1 red chilli, deseeded and fnely chopped 2 garlic cloves, fnely chopped 1 /2 small pack coriander, chopped
1 Put all the brining ingredients in a large saucepan with 1 litre of water and bring to the boil. Remove from the heat and leave to cool completely. Once cooled, put the chops in the brine, cover with cling flm and leave in the fridge for 2 hrs. Remove the chops from the brine, rinse under the cold tap and pat dry with kitchen paper. 2 Heat oven to 200C/180C fan/gas 6. Heat a large griddle pan over a high heat and fry the pork chops for 3-4 mins each side or until starting to char – you may need to do this in 2 batches. Transfer to a baking tray lined with foil and roast for 10-12 mins until cooked through. PER SERVING energy 314 kcals • fat 19g • saturates 7g • carbs 1g • sugars 1g • fibre none • protein 35g • salt 2.0g
GOOD GLUTEN 4 YOU FREE
1 Put a pan of water on to boil. Add the potatoes and simmer for 10-15 mins until just tender. Drain the potatoes and season. Meanwhile, cook the beans in a pan of boiling water for 3 mins, then drain and run under cold water. 2 Heat the oil in a large, non-stick pan. Add the potatoes and fry for 20 mins, turning occasionally, until they are cooked through and golden brown. For the fnal min, toss through the beans to heat through. 3 Lift the potatoes and beans out of the oil with a slotted spoon and drain on kitchen paper. Once the oil has cooled slightly, add the chilli and garlic and fry for 3 mins until softened. Sprinkle the chilli, garlic and coriander over the potatoes and beans, then serve. PER SERVING energy 179 kcals • fat 8g • saturates 1g • carbs 23g • sugars 2g • fibre 3g • protein 3g • salt 0.2g
bbcgoodfood.com
Tipsy rhubarb & blood orange jelly A childhood favourite gets a grown-up makeover. If you can’t find blood orange juice, freshly squeezed regular orange juice will work just as well. 1 OF 5 GLUTEN A LITTLE EFFORT VIT C A DAY FREE
SERVES 6 PREP 20 mins plus at least 6 hrs chilling COOK 25 mins £1.82 per serving
6 shortbread biscuits, to serve FOR THE JELLY 700ml/11/4pts blood orange juice 100g/4oz golden caster sugar 1 tsp fnely grated ginger 250g/9oz rhubarb, sliced into bite-sized pieces 50ml/2f oz Campari 6 gelatine leaves FOR THE CUSTARD 500ml/18f oz double cream 100g/4oz sugar 1 vanilla pod, halved and seeds scraped out 4 large egg yolks
1 For the jelly, mix the blood orange juice, sugar and ginger together in a large saucepan over a medium heat for 5-10 mins until the sugar has dissolved. Add the rhubarb and poach it gently for 3-4 mins or until tender, being careful not to overcook, then remove from the heat. Skim off any foam, then stir in the Campari. 2 Soak the gelatine in cold water for 5 mins and squeeze dry. Add to the blood orange liquid, stirring to dissolve. Brush the inside of 6 x 150ml dariole moulds (see tip, below) with cold water so that they are just damp. 3 Lift the rhubarb out of the pan with a slotted spoon and divide two-thirds of it between the darioles. Pour the liquid over. Set aside the rest of the rhubarb and chill until needed. Allow the jellies to cool, then put in the fridge for at least 6 hrs or overnight until set. 4 To make the custard, set a large bowl over iced water. Combine the cream, sugar and vanilla in a large saucepan and bring to the boil. Briefy whisk the egg yolks in another bowl, then whisk in a third of the hot cream mixture. Don’t let it froth up, just make sure that everything combines smoothly. 5 Pour this egg mixture back into the rest of the boiling milk and cream, stirring all the time, until the custard is quite thick. Pour it into the bowl over iced water in order to prevent it overheating and curdling. Cover the surface with cling flm to prevent a skin forming, then leave to cool. Chill until needed. 6 To serve, pour a puddle of custard on 6 plates. Dip each dariole in hot water for a few secs, then turn out onto the custard. Top each jelly with a few poached rhubarb slices, and serve with the shortbread biscuits and any extra custard. PER SERVING energy 659 kcals • fat 49g • saturates 29g • carbs 45g • sugars 45g • fibre 1g • protein 6g • salt 0.1g
Tip If you don’t have 6 individual moulds, you can make one large jelly to share, with a bowl of the extra rhubarb and a large jug of custard.
May 2015
Food styling JENNIFER JOYCE | Styling JENNY IGGLEDEN
Watercress soup with bacon dumplings
Weekend
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Pop-tastic! I have always loved the Eurovision Song Contest and have fond memories of watching it with my dad when I was little. His favourite part was the voting and, as this is right at the end of the programme, it was one of those rare occasions when I was allowed to stay up really late. Now it’s just another excuse to throw a party, and I try to research cocktails from the host country to add even more fun to the occasion. You’ll also probably fnd us singing along…
Phoenix fzz Inspired by last year’s winner, Conchita Wurst from Austria, and the song Rise Like a Phoenix, this fiery citrus cocktail should get your Eurovision party off to a winning start. EASY
SERVES 4 PREP 15 mins NO COOK
Pour 100ml vodka into a cocktail shaker with 25ml ginger cordial, juice 1 orange and juice 1 lemon. Add a handful of ice and shake until the cocktail shaker is frosty. Line up 4 Champagne flutes to put a hibiscus flower from a jar with syrup in each, Winner’s bouquet Often overshadowed by the pyrotechnics, then strain the cocktail into the glasses. Divide 300ml Prosecco between the glasses, oodles of falling glitter, waving flags, whoops and cheers, the winners receive then drop 1 tsp syrup from the flowers into each and allow it to sink before serving. a rather lovely bunch of flowers in PER COCKTAIL energy 136 kcals • fat none • addition to their glitzy trophy. saturates none • carbs 9g • sugars 9g • fibre none If you’re playing along at home, this • protein none • salt none is a great cocktail to present to your best-dressed guest, or whoever guesses the winning act first. The edible flower Puppet on a string ice cubes are optional, but I think they Maybe Vienna, this year’s host city, will add a lovely springtime touch. spell success for the UK – it’s where Sandie Shaw took the trophy for us in EASY 1967 with Puppet on a String. Fingers SERVES 4 PREP 25 mins plus freezing NO COOK crossed for those elusive ‘douze points’! Before the Contest, freeze 8 edible flowers (such as violets or rose petals) in 8 ice cubes, if you like. Pour 200ml cold jasmine tea into a cocktail shaker with 1 tsp orange blossom honey, 25ml elderflower cordial, juice 1 grapefruit and 75ml vodka. Add a handful of (normal) ice cubes and shake well. Strain into 4 tall glasses. Divide 300ml Prosecco between the glasses, then add extra ice and the flowery ice cubes (if using).
PER COCKTAIL energy 135 kcals • fat none • saturates none • carbs 12g • Bucks Fizz were sugars 12g • fibre none the UK winners • protein none • in 1981 salt none
EASY
SERVES 4 PREP 30 mins NO COOK
Put 1 ripe pear through a spiralizer to create long spaghetti-like strands. If you don’t have a spiralizer, slice the pear into thin ribbons with a vegetable peeler, then cut the ribbons into thinner strips. Line up 4 tumblers and put 3-4 strands of pear in each one. Divide the juice 1 lemon between the glasses to coat the pear strands and stop them discolouring while you make the cocktail. Pour 75ml vodka and 25ml hazelnut liqueur (I used Frangelico) into a cocktail shaker. Add a handful of ice and shake until the outside of the cocktail shaker starts to frost, then strain into the glasses. Top with 500ml pressed pear juice divided between the 4 glasses. PER COCKTAIL energy 148 kcals • fat none • saturates none • carbs 21g • sugars 17g • fibre 1g • protein none • salt none
bbcgoodfood.com
23 MAY 2015
Apfelstrudel sidecar The last time the contest was held in Austria was in 1967, so I’ve given a classic Sixties cocktail a Viennese pastry twist with fresh apple juice, cinnamon and the sultana-like sweetness of Madeira. EASY
SERVES 4 PREP 20 mins COOK 5 mins
Dip the rim of 4 Martini glasses in a saucer of water, then into a saucer or small dish of 2 tbsp golden caster sugar. Pop the glasses into the fridge until ready to serve. Warm 200ml pressed apple juice in a small saucepan with 1 cinnamon stick. Bring to the boil, then turn off the heat and leave to go cold. Once cold, discard the cinnamon stick and pour into a jug. Put 100ml Cognac, 50ml Disaronno, 50ml Madeira wine and the juice 1 lemon into a cocktail shaker with a large handful of ice. Shake together until the mixture is chilled. Strain into your glasses, top up with the spiced apple juice and serve immediately. PER COCKTAIL energy 161 kcals • fat none • saturates none • carbs 16g • sugars 16g • fibre none • protein none • salt none
Shine a light The last time a UK entry won the Eurovision trophy was in 1997, when Katrina and the Waves smashed it with Love Shine a Light. This sparkling mocktail should bring sunshine to your party. If you want it slightly sweeter, use soda water rather than tonic. EASY GLUTEN FREE
SERVES 4 PREP 20 mins NO COOK
Dip a pastry brush in 1 tsp clear honey and paint a line down one side of 4 tumblers. Sprinkle some edible gold glitter over the honey, dust off any excess, then put the glasses in the fridge. Chop a small bunch coriander leaves and place in a cocktail shaker with the juice 1 lime, 100ml pineapple juice and a handful of ice. Shake together until the outside of the shaker feels cold. Strain into the glasses, add extra ice cubes and divide 650ml pineapple juice and 400ml tonic water between the glasses. PER MOCKTAIL energy 120 kcals • fat none • saturates none • carbs 29g • sugars 20g • fibre none • protein 1g • salt 0.1g
Sing along to the Eurovision Song Contest on BBC One on 23 May
May 2015
Food styling SARAH COOK | Styling SARAH BIRKS
Wow your friends with these cocktails plus a splash of Europop trivia from super-fan Miriam Nice
60th
Eurovision Song Contest
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To watch a video of Miriam Nice, our Assistant food editor, preparing cocktails, download the May issue of the Good Food app from the Apple App Store. It’s now also available on certain Samsung devices, through the Papergarden app.
May 2015
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A special supper for two
NEW RECIPES created for
When BBC chef Tom Kerridge gets a night off, he likes to cook a fsh dish to share with his wife Photographs ROB STREETER
TOM’S MENU FOR 2 Baked lemon sole with lemon & caper paste New potatoes with cheddar cheese sauce Wilted spring greens in nut oil
At this month’s photo shoot, Tom Kerridge was keen to talk to us about understanding favours and presentation. ‘We often hear that, in the modern kitchen, you shouldn’t serve cheese with fsh. I disagree! I prefer to think about how ingredients actually taste, and the balance of the favours, rather than arbitrary rules. ‘When I’m creating a recipe, or pairing dishes for a meal, I consider the texture, favour and seasonality of the ingredients, rather than simply accept that cheese and fsh don’t work together. Mature cheddar brings a big dairy richness and tangy acidity to what would otherwise be a very subtle pairing of favours. ‘As for presentation, in my professional kitchens everything is beautifully plated – but this is done by chefs who have spent years perfecting the art of presenting food. ‘Trying to replicate restaurantstyle presentation at home can be tricky, so let the ingredients do the talking and serve them simply, as I’ve done here. You can always use clever tricks, like my blowtorching, to give the fsh a “cheffy” fnish.’
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Weekend Baked lemon sole with lemon & caper paste
New potatoes with cheddar cheese sauce
There’s no point filleting small flat fish like lemon or Dover sole, as the whole fish makes a perfect portion for one – and, once filleted, they’re really easy to overcook. So I’ve kept them on the bone but neatly trimmed each one. If you really can’t ‘do’ fish bones, boneless fillets of chunky white fish like cod or pollock can be cooked in exactly the same way, to roughly the same timings.
I can’t think of a better way to serve new potatoes – using a good mature cheddar like Montgomery takes a simple cheese sauce to a different level.
SERVES 2 PREP 15 mins COOK 10 mins
zest 1/2 lemon, peeled into strips using a vegetable peeler 2 lemon thyme sprigs 2 shallots, sliced 2 lemon soles, about 300g/11oz each, dark skin removed, trimmed (see steps, left) 100g/4oz butter, diced FOR THE CAPER PASTE 100g/4oz capers 25g/1oz Parmesan 100ml/31/2f oz extra virgin olive oil fnely grated zest 1 lemon
PREPARING SMALL FLAT FISH
You can ask your fshmonger to do this – or have a go yourself
1 Using a large chef’s knife, chop off the head, just past the gill opening
3 Make a nick in the tail end of the dark skin, then use a cloth to grip and swiftly tear it away
2 Using kitchen scissors, cut away the frilly side bones close to the fesh; snip off little fns
4 Neaten the sides and tail with a knife, cutting away any fappy fesh – that’s all there is to it
WANT TO GET AHEAD?
1 First, make the caper paste. Blend the ingredients in a blender or small food processor for 2 mins until you have a smooth-ish purée (if using a food processor, you might need to scrape down the sides once or twice with a spatula). Transfer to a small bowl, cover with cling flm and place in the fridge until needed. Can be made 2 days ahead and chilled. 2 Heat oven to 220C/200C fan/gas 7. Scatter the lemon zest, lemon thyme and shallots onto a baking tray or ovenproof dish. Sprinkle the fsh lightly with salt and put it on top of the shallots, skin-side up. Place pieces of butter on each fsh and pour in 200ml water – this will steam the fsh and keep it juicy. 3 Put the fsh and the prepared tray of potatoes (see recipe, above right) in the oven at the same time and bake both for 10 mins, basting the fsh halfway through. While the fsh cooks, wilt the greens (see recipe, right) and take the caper paste out of the fridge to come to room temperature. 4 Take the fsh out of the oven and baste it one last time, then use a cook’s blowtorch to char the skin, if you like. Transfer the fsh to a serving plate with some of the shallots and lemon zest. Spoon a little of the caper paste over the fsh and serve immediately with the new potatoes and wilted spring greens. PER SERVING energy 967 kcals • fat 93g • saturates 36g • carbs 2g • sugars 1g • fibre 2g • protein 30g • salt 4.9g
■ You can make the caper paste two days in advance
and keep it in the fridge. ■ A day ahead, the potatoes can be covered in the cheese sauce and scattered with the cheese, then cover in cling flm and place in the fridge. ■ A few hours before cooking, the fsh can be totally prepared on the tray, ready for the oven. Cover in cling flm and keep in the fridge.
100
SERVES 2 PREP 5 mins COOK 30 mins
175g/6oz new potatoes 250ml/9f oz full-fat milk 25g/1oz butter 25g/1oz plain four 1 /2 tsp English mustard powder 100g/4oz mature cheddar (I used Montgomery), grated 1 /2 tsp smoked paprika pinch of cayenne pepper
1 Put the potatoes in a large saucepan of boiling water and cook for about 15 mins until tender. Meanwhile, heat the milk in a saucepan, then set aside. Melt the butter in a medium-sized saucepan over a low heat. Stir in the four and the mustard powder, cook for 1 min or so, then start to ladle in the hot milk, stirring as you pour, until it’s all added. Cook for a further 10 mins until you have a smooth sauce. Stir in most of the cheddar until fully melted into the sauce. Season with the paprika, cayenne and a little salt and pepper. 2 Put the potatoes in a small ovenproof dish, spoon over the cheese sauce and sprinkle with the remaining cheddar. Can be prepared a day ahead and kept covered in the fridge. Place in the oven alongside the fsh and cook until bubbling and golden. PER SERVING energy 469 kcals • fat 31g • saturates 19g • carbs 28g • sugars 7g • fibre 2g • protein 19g • salt 1.3g
Wilted spring greens in nut oil Creating an emulsion with oil, water and butter is the way that chefs get a simple side dish of wilted greens to taste so beautifully buttery. EASY
1 OF 5 GLUTEN VIT C A DAY FREE
SERVES 2 PREP 5 mins COOK 5 mins
small knob of butter 1 tbsp walnut oil 1 small head of spring greens, stem removed, roughly shredded 25g/1oz toasted walnuts, chopped
1 Pour 2 tbsp water into a sauté pan on a medium heat and stir in the butter and walnut oil. Bring the mixture to the boil, add the spring greens, stir gently, then turn the heat off and put a lid on the pan. 2 Just before the fsh comes out of the oven, turn the greens back on to fnish wilting them, then scoop into a serving dish and scatter with the chopped walnuts. PER SERVING energy 249 kcals • fat 23g • saturates 5g • carbs 2g • sugars 2g • fibre 5g • protein 4g • salt 0.3g
Tom Kerridge is back on BBC Two at the end of the summer in the new series of Great British Menu
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May 2015
Food styling EMILY KYDD | Styling SARAH BIRKS
EASY CALCIUM GLUTEN FREE
EASY CALCIUM
The perfect
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pairing
Fruit and nut muesli Muesli’s sweetness needs a smoother coffee with a light flavour. Be sure the choice enhances the nut and citrus tones, without overpowering them. The cocoa notes of a medium roast, found in the Starbucks House Blend, perfectly complement the subtle sweetness of a bowl of muesli.
With over 40 years of experience, Starbucks® knows the secret to the perfect match. By combining your cup with delicious food you can unlock hidden depths of flavour combinations
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he ritual of making coffee conjures up fantastic memories: that languorous Sunday morning spent lingering over breakfast with a loved one, an indulgent pick-me-up at the end of your birthday dinner, or that life-giving first sip after a hard day at work. Wherever it happens and whoever it’s shared with, it’s easy to agree: coffee matters. So when you’re looking to create more memories, it’s good to get some advice from the experts. With Starbucks packaged coffee you can bring the benefit of 40 years of experience into your home with an exceptional range of varieties. Since 1971, Starbucks has always been about the
coffee, with a passion for ethically sourcing only the finest Arabica coffee beans and roasting them with great care. From the sonorous complexity of the Espresso Roast, to the well-balanced cocoa tones of the House Blend, each has been painstakingly sourced from suppliers worldwide. Pairing coffee and food is as much an art as combining wine with a meal – and the rewards are just as rich. Take two classic coffee occasions: breakfast and a late night dessert. Each needs a subtly different accompaniment to maximise their taste. Try these pairings at your next dinner party or breakfast and revel in a new world of flavour.
Smoked salmon and cream cheese bagels The tang of the cream cheese and the doughy feel of the bagel needs subtle, herbal notes, like those in Starbucks Colombia Blend. Its nutty finish enhances the understated flavour of this classic dish. Chocolate Chocolate and coffee are one of nature’s perfect couples, so be sure to get the right bean for your block. Creamier chocolates suit less tart blends, while dark chocolate needs the full-bodied quality of a darker mix. Try Starbucks Caffè Verona for an Italian roast adaptable enough for either. Macaroons A dainty treat needs a similarly delicate yet strong-voiced coffee. Starbucks Espresso Roast brings deep caramel notes and a delicious crema to the table, thanks to the high altitude origins of its beans. Available at all good grocery stores including Tesco, Waitrose and Morrisons.
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Cake Club
It’s 150 years since Lewis Carroll wrote his classic, Alice’s Adventures in Wonderland. To celebrate, we’ve created a wonderful jammy strawberry sensation, ft for the Queen of Hearts herself! Recipe and food styling SARAH COOK Photographs SAM STOWELL
♥ Eat me!
Queen of Hearts cake
May 2015
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103
Weekend
This delicate sponge recipe uses a combination of semolina and ground almonds to give the sponge depth while keeping it light. MORE OF A CHALLENGE VIT C
sponges only SERVES 16 PREP 1 hr plus at least 5 hrs chilling COOK 25-30 mins
FOR THE SPONGES a drizzle of favourless oil (such as sunfower), for greasing 5 large eggs, separated 175g/6oz golden caster sugar zest and juice 1 lemon 1 tsp vanilla extract 85g/3oz fne semolina 25g/1oz ground almonds 1 tbsp poppy seeds FOR FILLING AND ASSEMBLING about 650g/1lb 7oz strawberries, hulled 200g/7oz icing sugar, plus extra to serve 4 gelatine leaves 750ml/1lb 10oz whipping cream 3-4 tbsp strawberry jam
1 Heat oven to 180C/160C fan/gas 4. Grease and line the bases of 2 x 22-23cm straightsided, loose-bottomed square tins. 2 To make the sponges, put the egg yolks and sugar in a large mixing bowl and beat with an electric whisk until pale. Add the lemon zest and juice, vanilla, semolina, almonds and poppy seeds, then whisk again briefy to mix. 3 Clean your beaters, and beat the egg whites in a separate bowl to stiff peaks. Add a quarter of the egg whites to the other mixture and stir in well to loosen. Add the remaining egg whites and, using a big metal spoon, gently fold in until no big lumps of egg white remain. Divide the mixture between the tins, spread the top to smooth and bake for 20 mins until springy to touch and a
A
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Put your Queen of Hearts strawberry mousse cake in the centre of the table and pile up other Alice goodies alongside. ♥ Make your favourite sandwiches and cut them out using club, spade, diamond and more heartshaped cutters (you’ll fnd these at amazon.co.uk). Serve your playing card sandwiches on red, white and black plates and feed the trimmings to the birds. ♥ Use natural food colouring to dye fruit juices and sparkling drinks unexpected colours – try turning pineapple juice green, sparkling elderfower orange and cranberry juice purple. Divide between small bottles or glasses, and add ‘Drink me’ labels. ♥ Ice a batch of homemade lavender & lemon shortbread fngers with ‘Eat me’ instructions. ♥ Bake a batch of ‘Cheshire’ cheese scones – they’ll make you and your guests smile… ♥ And, fnally, no Alice in Wonderland themed party would be complete without some Little jam tarts – fnd the recipe at bbcgoodfood.com.
Time for a magical tea
Ceramic rabbit cupcake stand, £10, marquisanddawe.co.uk Mad Hatter fne bone china mug, £16, notonthehighstreet.com
PER SERVING energy 349 kcals • fat 22g • saturates 12g • carbs 33g • sugars 29g • fibre 1g • protein 5g • salt 0.1g
For more Alice-inspired recipes, visit bbcgoodfood.com and search for our ‘Drink me’ raspberry & vanilla vodka, ‘Eat me’ chessboard sugar cookie cards and Cupcake caterpillar birthday cake.
Taste team comment ‘The poppy seeds gave the sponge a lovely texture, which worked fabulously with the mousse and strawberries. A very impressive cake.’ JULIA
Alice in Wonderland tea party teapot, £35, whittard.co.uk
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If you’ve made our strawberry cake, we’d love to see your photos
Next month
• Send them to enquiries@bbcgoodfoodmagazine.com • Share them on Twitter or Instagram with the hashtag #gfcakeclub
Food editor Cassie Best creates a stunning Choco-maltilicious cake
We’ll feature our favourite photos in the magazine. So get baking!
bbcgoodfood.com
May 2015
Styling JENNY IGGLEDEN | White rabbit illustration JOHN TENNIEL
Queen of Hearts cake
skewer inserted into the centre comes out clean. Leave the sponges to cool in the tins. 4 When the sponges are cool, start to prepare the flling. Put 400g of the strawberries and the icing sugar in a food processor or blender and whizz to a really smooth purée. Transfer to a saucepan and gently warm. Meanwhile, soak the gelatine leaves in a bowl of cold water. 5 When the purée is hot but you can still put your fngers in it, squeeze out the excess water from the gelatine, take the purée off the heat and stir in the gelatine to melt. Pour into a bowl and put in the fridge to quickly cool. Whip the cream until it is thick and holding peaks. 6 Halve the remaining strawberries and trim so they’re the same length – so when they are sitting on the sponges, they don’t come above the top of the tin. Line up the strawberries all the way around the edge of one of the cakes, cut-sides fat against the side of the tin (pic A). When the purée is cool, fold through the whipped cream until evenly mixed, then pile into the tin, spreading to fll all the strawberry corners, and smooth the surface. 7 Remove the remaining sponge from its tin and, using a ruler or skewers and a small heart-shaped cutter, cut 8 hearts from alternating ‘squares’ – as if your sponge is divided into a 4 x 4 grid (pic B). Turn the cake onto the mousse to top, and peel away the paper. Gently press into the mousse to stick and chill for 5 hrs or overnight to set. 8 Just before serving, sieve the jam to remove any lumps, then use to cover the mousse in each heart hole – a small piping bag is good for this (pic C). Finish by cutting 8 squares of baking parchment the same size as your grid squares were. Sit over the 8 heart ‘squares’ and dust heavily with icing sugar. Carefully lift off the parchment squares, leaving a chessboard pattern on the top, and serve immediately with cake forks and dainty cups of tea. Will keep in the fridge for up to 2 days.
Win a fabulous £5,000 foodie trip to Scotland WORTH OVER
Enjoy a two-night stay in a luxury hotel for four, plus dinner on both nights at top restaurant Rocca Scotch Beef has been named Scotland’s favourite food, and to celebrate, we’re offering you the chance to win a fabulous culinary experience in the stunning coastal town of St Andrews, worth over £5,000. The winner and their three guests will enjoy two evenings of fne dining at the award-winning Rocca restaurant. Rocca, which offers an exquisite fusion of Scottish and Italian food, is one of only 25 restaurants in the country with three AA Rosettes. You’ll also meet head chef Jamie Scott, the 2014 winner of MasterChef: The Professionals. You’ll stay in two senior suites at the stylish Macdonald Rusacks Hotel, just a stone’s throw from one of the world’s oldest and most iconic sporting locations, the Old Course, with breathtaking views over the golf course and West Sands beach. You’ll also receive two luxury food hampers, and two £100 vouchers for the Scotch Beef Club (available to spend at butchers all over the UK), making this prize the ultimate experience for any food lover. For recipe ideas and inspiration, visit scotchbeefkitchen.com. For more information about the Scotch Beef Club, visit scotchbeefclub.org.
The hotel has stunning views over the Old Course and the beach
HOW TO ENTER For a chance to win, complete your details online at bbcgoodfood.com/competitions.
The luxury food hampers are packed with wines, spirits, and savoury and sweet treats
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You could meet Jamie Scott, head chef at the award-winning Rocca restaurant and winner of MasterChef: The Professionals
Terms and conditions ■ The promoter of this competition is Immediate Media Company London Ltd, Vineyard House, 44 Brook Green, London W6 7BT. ■ Closing date for entries is 11.59pm on 28 May 2015. ■ The prize is for one person to win two nights’ dinner, bed and breakfast for four people in two senior suites at Macdonald Rusacks Hotel, Pilmour Links, St Andrews, Fife KY16 9JQ. ■ The prize is strictly subject to availability and must be taken before October 2015. ■ Entrants must be 18 years or over and resident in the UK. ■ The prize is non-exchangeable, non-transferable and not redeemable for cash or any other prize. ■ The prize includes travel costs to and from the hotel up to the value of £1,250 for four people. ■ The prize includes dinner on both nights (each with a bottle of house wine) at Rocca. Other beverages are not included. ■ The prize includes two hampers up to the value of £500 each, including two £100 vouchers for the Scotch Beef Club. Please visit bbcgoodfood.com/competitions for full terms and conditions.
Let your kids cook
dinner
Make time to cook with your children, says Food writer and mum of two Angela Boggiano, and you’ll be rewarded with a meal that everyone can be proud of Photographs CRAIG ROBERTSON
106
bbcgoodfood.com
May 2015
Weekend
Teach your kids a life skill
Classic lasagne This is my easiest-ever lasagne recipe. It doesn’t even need a white sauce, as it uses crème fraîche instead. You can use the ragu in other pasta dishes too, so it’s a useful one for older children to learn. OF 5 EASY CALCIUM 2 A DAY
SERVES 4-6 PREP 15 mins COOK 1 hr
You will need n Vegetable peeler n Grater n Sharp knife n Chopping board n Large saucepan
with ftted lid n Kitchen scissors n Wooden spoon n Large casserole dish or roasting tin (about 30 x 20 x 8cm)
May 2015
1 tbsp olive oil 2 rashers smoked streaky bacon 1 onion, fnely chopped 1 celery stick, fnely chopped 1 medium carrot, grated 2 garlic cloves, fnely chopped 500g beef mince 1 tbsp tomato purée 2 x 400g cans chopped tomatoes 1 tbsp clear honey 500g pack fresh egg lasagne sheets 400ml crème fraîche 125g ball mozzarella, roughly torn 50g freshly grated Parmesan large handful basil leaves, torn (optional)
1 Heat the oil in a large saucepan. Use kitchen scissors to snip the bacon into small pieces, or use a sharp knife to chop it on a chopping board. Add the bacon to the pan and cook for just a few mins until starting to turn golden. Add the onion, celery and carrot, and cook over a medium heat for 5 mins, stirring occasionally, until softened. 2 Add the garlic and cook for 1 min, then tip in the mince and cook, stirring and breaking it up with a wooden spoon, for about 6 mins until browned all over. 3 Stir in the tomato purée and cook for 1 min, mixing in well with the beef and vegetables. Tip in the chopped tomatoes. Fill each can half full with water to rinse out any tomatoes left in the can, and add to the pan. Add the honey and season to taste. Simmer for 20 mins. 4 Heat oven to 200C/180C fan/gas 6. To assemble the lasagne, ladle a little of the ragu sauce into the bottom of the roasting tin or casserole dish, spreading the sauce all over the base. Place 2 sheets of lasagne on top of the sauce overlapping to make it ft,
bbcgoodfood.com
then repeat with more sauce and another layer of pasta. Repeat with a further 2 layers of sauce and pasta, fnishing with a layer of pasta. 5 Put the crème fraîche in a bowl and mix with 2 tbsp water to loosen it and make a smooth pourable sauce. Pour this over the top of the pasta, then top with the mozzarella. Sprinkle Parmesan over the top and bake for 25–30 mins until golden and bubbling. Serve scattered with basil, if you like. PER SERVING (6) energy 844 kcals • fat 52g • saturates 30g • carbs 54g • sugars 13g • fibre 5g • protein 37g • salt 1.1g
Turn over for our garlic bread recipe
107
Weekend
This is a simple way to make a garlic butter that can be kept in the fridge or freezer for when you want to make garlic bread. If you like, add finely chopped herbs or grated lemon zest to the butter when mixing in the garlic for even more flavour. You will need
EASY
n Garlic crusher n Bowl n Cling flm n Sharp serrated
SERVES 6 PREP 5 mins plus chilling COOK 15 mins
bread knife n Small sharp knife n Foil
108
60g butter, softened 2 garlic cloves, crushed 1 part-baked white baguette (about 150g)
1 Put the butter in a bowl, add the garlic and mix well. Spoon the butter out onto a sheet of cling flm and roll up to make a sausage-shaped log. Chill for 10 mins. 2 Heat oven to 200C/180C fan/gas 6. Slice the baguette into about 12 slices but not all the way through, leaving the base intact to hold it together. 3 Remove the cling flm from the butter and thinly slice on a chopping board. Press each butter slice between the slices of bread. 4 Wrap the baguette in foil, place on a tray and bake for 5–6 mins, then peel back the foil. Cook for a further 4–5 mins to crisp up. Serve immediately with the lasagne (p107). PER SERVING energy 192 kcals • fat 11g • saturates 7g • carbs 19g • sugars 2g • fibre 1g • protein 3g • salt 0.6g
bbcgoodfood.com
Our two junior cooks this month are Angela’s children Hunter, five, and Liliana, four
Food styling and styling ANGELA BOGGIANO
Crusty garlic bread
For more meals to cook with your children, visit bbcgoodfood.com
May 2015
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Five family holiday frsts
1
Their first word, their first step… We all know how special family firsts are. That’s why Hilton are ideal for your next family holiday – to give your children their first unforgettable experience of European culture
Their very first boat ride
2
Their first real history lesson
The costumed gladiators guarding Rome’s Colosseum will enthrall younger kids. Older ones will love the ghoulish Santa Maria della Concezione, where over 4,000 skeletons decorate subterranean chapels.
Forget the quaint pond at the local park. The canals and waterways of Venice are a far more exciting quest – especially with a whopping authentic gelato in your hand.
4
Their first dolphin encounter
Take a catamaran cruise at the stunning Arrabida Natural Park in Lisbon and sail alongside playful bottlenose dolphins. Stop off at Cape Espichel on the way back to spot ancient dinosaur footprints on a remote beach.
3
Their first bike ride tour
Amsterdam is brilliant for bike-loving kids. Pedal round the pretty canals, locks, bridges and tiny houses – the smallest being as wide as a door. Also look out for the science museum Nemo with its roof waterfall.
5
Their first enigmatic smile
Show your children the mysterious masterpiece, the Mona Lisa, at The Louvre in Paris. An innovative audio guide system operates on a Nintendo DS – perfect for grabbing their attention.
Make Hilton your first port of call
Not only are Hilton Hotels perfectly placed in a string of fabulous European locations, they are also brilliantly equipped for families. There’s a Hilton to suit every budget and need from the opulence of the Waldorf Astoria to the cosy and homely Hilton Garden Inn. With a Family Fun package, enjoy free Wi-Fi and a 4pm checkout when you book bed and breakfast for two adults and two kids from £109 per room per night*, and choose from 18 European cities including Paris, Barcelona and Lisbon. Whether you experience authentic tapas on Las Ramblas or visit an open-air theatre production in Malta, thanks to Hilton’s Family Firsts you can give your kids their first taste of culture and leave memories to treasure forever. *Offer is subject to availability at participating hotels. Terms & Conditions apply. For full Terms & Conditions, please visit Hilton.com/hiltonfirsts
For more information and to book, visit Hilton.com/hiltonfirsts
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CHEFS’ SPECIALS This month we have a celebration of custard from Nigel Slater, two full-of-flavour main courses from Saturday Kitchen chefs plus some fun cupcakes to bake with the children Edited by KATHRYN CUSTANCE Recipes tested by Home economist PETRA JACKSON
Saturday Kitchen Live Fernando Stovell and Tom Kitchin join James Martin in the studio this May. Catch the show from 10am on BBC One
FERNANDO STOVELL
Braised & pulled beef tacos Brisket is a fantastic and tasty cheaper cut. It’s cooked long and slow to produce the most marvellous meat that will tenderly fall apart. Ideally, cook the joint a day ahead so all you need do is prepare the salad and salsa. EASY
SERVES 6 PREP 45 mins COOK 3 hrs
750g boneless beef brisket 1 small onion, roughly chopped 2 garlic cloves, peeled 1 litre beef stock FOR THE SALSA 1 /2 small onion 3 tomatoes, halved 2 small green chillies, stalks removed FOR THE SALAD 6 tbsp extra virgin olive oil 3 tbsp malt vinegar 1 medium onion, fnely sliced 2 small tomatoes, halved, seeded and fnely chopped 1 jalapeño or bird’s-eye chilli, deseeded and fnely chopped 10 pitted green olives, sliced 1 tsp chopped oregano 3 tbsp chopped coriander TO SERVE 1 /2 iceberg lettuce, cored and leaves fnely shredded 1 ripe avocado, halved, stoned, peeled and sliced lengthways 12 taco shells
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1 Heat oven to 150C/130C fan/ gas 2. Season the brisket and heat a large frying pan over a medium heat. Add the meat and brown on all sides. Transfer to a large casserole and add the onion, garlic and stock. Add enough water to just cover the beef. Top with a tight-ftting lid and cook in the oven for 21/2-3 hrs or until meltingly tender. 2 Leave the brisket to rest for about 20 mins, then shred the meat using 2 forks, removing any gristle as you go. Set aside. 3 To make the salsa, heat the grill to its highest setting and line the grill pan with foil. Cut the 1/2 onion in half again. Leave one part as a wedge and fnely chop the remainder. Set aside the chopped part. Put the tomatoes, skin-side up, on the grill pan, along with the onion wedge and chillies. Cook under the grill for 3-4 mins or until the skins begin to blacken. Transfer to a food processor and
blend until smooth. Season with some salt. Put in a bowl and sprinkle over the chopped onion. 4 To make the salad, whisk the oil and vinegar in a salad bowl. Add the remaining salad ingredients, except the coriander, and mix gently to combine. Stir in the pulled beef, season and scatter over the coriander. 5 When you are ready to serve, put the beef salad, salsa, lettuce and avocado in separate bowls. Put the taco shells on a plate and hand round to let people build their own tacos.
n Fernando, who runs Stovell’s in Chobham, Surrey, will be cooking with James on Saturday 16 May.
Petra says: ‘Whatever you do, don’t pour away the delicious cooking juices from the beef. This will form the base for a soup, sauce or gravy on another day. Simply strain it into a jug, pour into a plastic box and freeze.’
bbcgoodfood.com
May 2015
TV recipes
TOM KITCHIN
Lobster with escargot butter This garlic & herb butter is usually served in escargot – hence the name. But here it gives lobster a rich, luxurious finish. Buy them ready-cooked for a classic with minimal effort. A LITTLE EFFORT
SERVES 4 PREP 55 mins COOK 13 mins
2 whole cooked lobsters FOR THE SAVOURY BUTTER 1 tbsp rapeseed oil 25g Parma ham, fnely chopped 50g shallots, fnely chopped 50g fennel, fnely chopped 50g button mushrooms, fnely chopped 2 garlic cloves, fnely chopped 1 /2 tbsp fnely chopped fat-leaf parsley 1 /2 tbsp fnely chopped tarragon 250g pack butter, at room temperature 2 tsp wholegrain mustard (I used Pommery) 2 tsp dried breadcrumbs 1 tbsp ground almonds steamed asparagus or samphire, to serve
1 Cut each lobster in half, starting at the head and working down to the tail. Remove the claws and carefully take out the meat. Remove all the meat from the halved body as well as the coral. Cut into bite-sized pieces, keeping the coral separate. Set aside, reserving the body shells. 2 To make the savoury butter, heat a large non-stick frying pan over a medium heat, add half the oil, then the ham and cook for 2-3 mins. Next add the shallots, fennel, mushrooms, garlic and the remaining oil. Sweat for 3-4 mins or until tender, stirring occasionally. Sprinkle in the herbs, season and stir well. Leave to cool. 3 Whisk the butter in a bowl until creamy, add the cooled garlic mixture and stir well to evenly combine. Stir in the mustard, breadcrumbs and almonds, then the lobster coral, and mix well. Spoon the butter onto
May 2015
a sheet of cling flm and roll up like a sausage, twisting the ends to secure. Chill for at least 1 hr or until frm. 4 Preheat grill to High. Unwrap the savoury butter and cut into slices about 3-4mm thick. Spoon the lobster meat back into the reserved body shells, tucking the butter slices in between and on top of the meat as you go. Reduce grill to Medium-High and cook for 5-6 mins or until the meat is hot and mixture bubbling. Serve with steamed asparagus or, when in season, samphire.
Petra says: ‘This is fve-star dining with a price tag to match, so try to extract every last morsel of meat from the lobsters. Pay particular attention to the claws – I use a nutcracker and a long, thin skewer for this. You will not need to use all the garlic butter, so keep it well wrapped in the fridge, or freeze it in sliced portions. Use it to top grilled fsh such as hake or halibut steaks.’
n Michelin-starred chef Tom Kitchin, who runs The Kitchin in Edinburgh, will be cooking with James in the studio on 9 May.
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Recipes adapted from Saturday Kitchen Suppers (£20, Weidenfeld & Nicolson). You can buy the book for just £17. Call 01326 569444, p&p is free. Or buy online at sparkledirect.com/goodfood.
Over the page Matilda and the Ramsay Bunch and Nigel Slater
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Matilda and the Ramsay Bunch
A much-loved family recipe from Tilly Ramsay, ideal for a Bank Holiday sleepover. Catch her new series on CBBC this month
Ice cream cupcakes These are really fun to make. They’re baked in small ice cream cones with flat bottoms – you’ll need 12, but have a couple spare in case of breakages. EASY
MAKES 12 PREP 40 mins COOK 20 mins
FOR THE CAKE 12 fat-bottomed ice cream cones 100g unsalted butter, at room temperature 150g golden caster sugar 2 eggs 1 tsp vanilla extract 220g plain four, sifted 30g unsweetened cocoa powder 1 /2 tsp bicarbonate of soda 150ml buttermilk FOR THE ICING 40g unsalted butter, at room temperature 125g cream cheese, cold from the fridge 300g icing sugar, sifted if lumpy 1 tsp vanilla extract cupcake sprinkles, to serve (optional)
1 Heat oven to 180C/160C fan/gas 4. Sit the ice cream cones in a muffn tin to help keep them steady. Put the butter and sugar into the bowl of an electric mixer and beat until very light and creamy. Turn the mixer down to low and beat in the eggs, one at a time, then add the vanilla extract. 2 Sift together the four, cocoa and bicarbonate of soda, and fold into the creamy mixture. Finally, add the buttermilk in a slow, steady stream to form a thick smooth batter. 3 Fill each cone with the cake mix until it comes just below the rim, then bake for 15-20 mins or until a skewer comes out clean. Let them cool for a few mins, then put them on a wire rack and leave until cool. Clean your mixing bowl and dry thoroughly. 4 To make the icing, put the butter and cream cheese into the mixer bowl, then beat on a low speed to combine. Gradually spoon in the icing sugar and vanilla extract, and mix to form a thick, smooth icing. 5 Spoon the icing into a piping bag ftted with a star nozzle and swirl it onto the top of each cupcake. Try to get it to look like a squirt of real ice cream in a cone! Finish by decorating with your favourite sprinkles, if you like.
LIKE FATHER, LIKE DAUGHTER Thirteen-year-old Tilly Ramsay follows in the footsteps of her dad Gordon with her own 15-part cookery show for CBBC. In this real-life cooking sitcom, flmed last summer in Los Angeles, Tilly creates dishes to accompany Bollywood-themed parties, stunt lessons at a flm studio, daredevil zip-wiring and surf days on the beach.
May 2015
TV recipes
Nigel Slater: Eating Together Two must-try recipes for custard lovers, from Nigel Slater’s new series, coming soon to BBC One
Dad’s Banana custard trife EASY
SERVES 6-8 PREP 30 mins plus chilling COOK 10 mins
2 raspberry Swiss rolls, shop bought 6 tbsp sweet Sherry 135g pack blackcurrant jelly block, separated into chunks 2-3 tbsp custard powder 500ml milk 2 bananas 600ml double cream 100g faked almonds glacé cherries and candied angelica, to decorate
1 Cut the Swiss roll into 4cm-thick rounds. Arrange around the bottom of a large trife dish. Soak the Swiss roll pieces with the Sherry. 2 Put the jelly pieces into a mixing bowl and stir with 500ml hot water or as per the instructions on the pack. When the jelly has dissolved, leave to cool slightly, then pour it over the Swiss roll. When completely cold, chill for 2-3 hrs or until the jelly has set. 3 Prepare the custard powder as per the instructions on the packet with 500ml milk. Add 2 chopped bananas and leave to cool. When the custard has cooled, spoon it over the jelly and return to the fridge. Whisk the double cream to soft peaks and smother over the top of the chilled custard. 4 Toast the faked almonds in a dry frying pan until very pale golden, shaking the pan occasionally so they colour as evenly as possible. Let them cool, then scatter over the whipped cream. Slice the glacé cherries and candied angelica, and decorate the top of the trife to your liking.
Petra says: ‘One spoonful of this and I was teleported back to my youth. My mum used to make a very similar trife when my granny came on a Sunday. She would only ever use a raspberry jelly, then decorate the trife with cherries and angelica, but never any nuts. You can do the same and tailor this trife to your tastes.’ May 2015
Profteroles with cheat’s custard A LITTLE EFFORT
SERVES 6-8 PREP 35 mins COOK 30 mins
FOR THE PROFITEROLES 100g unsalted butter, chopped into small pieces 150g plain four 4 eggs FOR THE CHEAT’S CUSTARD 4 small egg yolks 4 tbsp golden caster sugar 1 vanilla pod 2 tbsp Marsala wine 300g mascarpone FOR THE TOPPING 100g dark chocolate (75% cocoa solids), broken into pieces 100g white chocolate, broken into pieces 60g pistachios, shelled crystallised rose petals and violets, to decorate
bbcgoodfood.com
1 Heat oven to 200C/180C fan/gas 6. To make the profteroles, lightly butter a large baking sheet or line with baking parchment. Pour 250ml water into a large saucepan and add the butter. Let it melt over a low heat, then bring to a simmer. As it bubbles, quickly tip in all the four and add a pinch of salt, and beat until the mixture forms a ball. Leave it to cool slightly. 2 Transfer the ball to an electric mixer and whisk in the eggs, one at a time, until the mixture is thick, smooth and shiny. Place small spoonfuls of mixture, spaced apart, on the baking sheet. Bake for about 25 mins or until puffed and golden. Remove from the baking sheet, pierce each to let the steam out, then cool on a rack. 3 For the cheat’s custard, whisk the egg yolks with the sugar and the seeds of the vanilla pod. Add the Marsala wine and mascarpone, and mix well until smooth. 4 Make small splits in each of the choux buns with a sharp knife. Using a teaspoon, fll each one with a generous amount of the custard. Arrange the stuffed buns in a tall pile on a large plate or cake stand. 5 Put the dark and white chocolate in 2 separate bowls. Melt them, one at a time, over a pan of simmering water. When the chocolate has melted, trickle it over the buns. Coarsely chop the pistachios, plus some crystallised roses and violets. Scatter them over the profteroles to decorate.
Nigel’s new series In his new six-part series for BBC One, Nigel Slater travels around multicultural Britain, bringing together different communities to taste, make and share each other’s versions of the same dishes – from custard to dumplings. Nigel sees how custard brings out the child in us all, from his own father’s traditional trife to home-baked Portuguese custard tarts. He also cooks a delicious Malaysian custard that’s not yellow but green – before creating these extravagant profteroles, combining a touch of everyone’s custard dishes.
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LEFT Lemons are a huge part of my cooking – they are like a third seasoning ABOVE I keep fun straws on my shelves. When I make a smoothie in the morning, I like to drink it with a cheerful straw! RIGHT I got this from a thrift shop in New Orleans. I’m a huge ice cream fan and love these favours
My kitchen Anna Jones Chef Anna Jones, author of A Modern Way to Eat, shows Holly Brooke-Smith how she cooks at her London home
Photographs GEOFF WILKINSON
AFTER READING A newspaper article about following your passion, Anna Jones quit her job and enrolled at Jamie Oliver’s Fifteen training programme in 2003. She went on to work as a chef in London, Spain and Tuscany before rejoining Jamie’s team four years later as a food stylist and writer. Her frst book, A Modern Way to Eat, was published last summer, and a follow-up, A Modern Way to Cook, will be out in June. She lives in east London with her partner, John.
Describe your kitchen The previous owners were furniture designers, so the fttings came with the house. Half of the appeal when we
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May 2015
Good reads My shelves are packed with interesting grains, such as buckwheat, amaranth and millet RIGHT My sister found this tin in a second-hand shop. When we were little, we had a poster in our bedroom featuring the same characters
I have colour palettes I like – yellows, muted blues, greens and greys
bought it was the lovely details they’d put in. I love being able to look out into the garden too. We moved here in December and I had no idea what was going to happen in the spring – then everything went yellow when the mimosa came out. It’s amazing.
What do you cook when friends come over? I get a bit overexcited, and start off arranging a dinner party for eight, but often end up with 20-30 people. We recently bought a wood-burning oven for the back garden, so we’ve had some pizza and fatbread parties. I generally cook Mexican because it’s great for sharing. You can make lots of tacos and the food looks
May 2015
good on all kinds of colourful serving dishes and bowls.
How many people can sit at your table? We’ve had 14. It’s from Ardingly antiques fair in West Sussex. I bought it two days before we moved in, without knowing if we could get it into the house, so I was relieved when we did. I sit there and do my work. It’s really important for us to have a lovely big table – although it’s normally just me and John. Are you a collector? I deal with crockery the way some people manage their wardrobes. In order to get a few more items, I have to get rid of things. That’s the deal I have
‘I was one of those geeky children trying to work out how to make lemon curd, rather than doing cartwheels in the garden’ with John, anyway! Some things have to go if I want more. One of our jugs was made by John’s uncle, who had a pottery on Skye in Scotland for years and years, so it’s very special.
What about gadgets? I have a few, but the one I use the most is my speed peeler. It makes ribbons of carrots and courgettes, and there’s something
bbcgoodfood.com
quite meditative about peeling. I also have a Vitamix blender – it’s quick and so powerful. I make a lot of pestos and sauces with nuts and chutneys, which layer up the favour of a dish, so having a blender is a huge time-saver. Cooking for me is really tactile. It’s about having a connection with what you’re doing, and the spluttering and squidging of the food. That’s why I don’t have a microwave.
Who’s on your bookshelves? I don’t cook from recipes very often, but I look at books for inspiration. Some of my favourites are Super Natural Cooking by Heidi Swanson, and the Green Kitchen Travels by David Frenkiel, on healthy
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Good reads ANNA’S LIGHT LUNCH
vegetarian cooking. I love the way Skye Gyngell cooks and her book My Favourite Ingredients.
Were you interested in food as a child? I was one of those geeky little children trying to work out how to make lemon curd, rather than doing cartwheels in the garden, but my parents encouraged it. My mum has a head for healthy cooking and was keen on nourishing us. I grew up in California in a post-hippy area of San Francisco, and that defnitely introduced me to eating in a joyful way rather than thinking of healthy food as worthy. What influences the way you cook today? I was a chef for quite a few years but then I spent seven years working for Jamie’s magazine and cookery programmes – I did food styling for photographs, and sourced props to use in the pictures. It helped me to understand what people want when they cook at home. That informs a lot of what I write about. Why did you stop working in restaurants? It’s all down to BBC Good Food! When I was at Fifteen, we were asked to do some recipes for the magazine and I wrote down some ideas that were chosen. So I went to the photo shoot and discovered this whole new world of food that wasn’t just the bravado of the professional kitchen. I’ve still got a Polaroid of my Basil panna cotta from the shoot back in 2004.
Charred spring vegetables with watercress dressing A LITTLE EFFORT
SERVES 4 PREP 20 mins COOK 55 mins Holly and Anna at the generous table
ABOVE I love cactuses because I’m not that brilliant at taking care of plants. They also remind me of California TOP My chairs are a real mixture, some more expensive than others. I bought a Fifties diner chair in America LEFT Flashback to 2004 – Anna’s appearance in BBC Good Food
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LOW FOLATE VIT C 1 OF 5 GOOD CAL A DAY 4 YOU
GLUTEN FREE
750g/1lb 10oz small new potatoes, scrubbed clean sea salt 4 tbsp extra virgin olive oil 4 large organic or free-range eggs bunch of asparagus, woody ends removed 8 mini cornichons, chopped 2 tbsp drained capers good bunch of watercress, roughly chopped a few sprigs each of fresh parsley, mint and tarragon, leaves picked and chopped 1 tbsp red wine vinegar 1 tsp Dijon mustard zest 1/2 lemon
I’ve never missed meat Anna explains how her cooking developed when she changed the way she ate. ‘I became a vegetarian seven years ago, originally as a bit of an experiment, with no intention of doing it forever. It was quite a big thing because I was a chef in a professional kitchen. At the time, saying that I was veggie was a bit like a swear word. I was apprehensive about telling the people I worked with, and it took a while to build up that courage, but I’ve never looked back. ‘I don’t feel like anything is missing in my diet because I have changed my focus and the way I cook. I create dishes with more depth now – layering the flavours and textures, as well as using colour and lots of different veg and grains. It’s been such a brilliant exploration of cooking that I haven’t missed meat at all. ‘We’ve come a long way in the past 10 years. Back then, cooking was something we weren’t doing as much of – now cookery is top of the charts. We’ve learnt lots of lessons about provenance, seasonality, health and nutrition, and now we’re assimilating that information, turning it into a way of cooking that covers the best of everything. ‘The modern way of cooking and eating is not about rules, as you can’t make decisions for everyone’s bodies – we’re all so different. Rather, it’s about delicious and joyful food.’
bbcgoodfood.com
1 Heat oven to 220C/200C fan/gas 7. Put the new potatoes in a shallow roasting tin with a good pinch of sea salt and pepper, and drizzle over 1 tbsp olive oil. Once the oven is hot, put the potatoes in to roast for 30 mins. 2 Put the eggs in a small saucepan, cover with cold water, bring to the boil, then turn off the heat and leave for 7 mins. Take them out of the pan and run under cold water. Once cool, peel and put to one side. 3 Add all but 2 spears of the asparagus to the potatoes, toss to coat in the oil and roast for a further 15 mins. 4 Mix the cornichons, capers, watercress and herbs together in a bowl. Whisk the remaining olive oil with the vinegar and mustard, then stir this in. Peel the remaining spears of asparagus into long thin strips. 5 Once the potatoes and asparagus are ready, put them in a bowl and pour over the cornichon dressing. Scatter with the asparagus strips and toss gently while everything is still hot. Slice the eggs lengthways into quarters and scatter over the top. Finish by sprinkling over some lemon zest. PER SERVING energy 344 kcals • fat 18g • saturates 3g • carbs 31g • sugars 4g • fibre 5g • protein 13g • salt 0.9g
n Recipe adapted from A Modern Way to Eat (£17, Fourth Estate)
May 2015
O 29N S M AL AY E
In next month’s issue
Summer healthy NEW 7-DAY DIET PLAN
■ Deliciously simple
recipes & advice ■ Feel lighter & leaner PLUS Veggie lasagne gets a makeover ■ Our feelgood food, by the Hemsley sisters
DON’T FORGET You can download every issue with our award-winning app Digital magazine also available on:
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May 2015
Lovely low-cal lunch Herb pancake wraps with goat's cheese & baby kale
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Be a star baker! SAVE OVER 55% when you buy this Morphy Richards food mixer – it makes whipping up bakes and cakes a breeze
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How to order your food mixer Please send a cheque payable to JEM Marketing, with GF/0192 written on the back, stating colour choice, to: BBC Good Food Reader Offer, JEM House, Littlemead, Cranleigh, Surrey GU6 8ND or call 01483 204455** quoting GF/0192 or visit shopatjem.co.uk/goodfood. Terms and conditions *Please add £4.95 p&p per order. Delivery within 28 days to UK mainland only, some exclusions may apply. Offer ends 30 August 2015. If you are not completely satisfed with your product, please call our customer services on 01483 204455 and we will advise you of the best way to return the goods. Orders returned within 14 days in perfect condition will receive a no-quibble, money-back guarantee (less p&p). **Calls cost 10p per minute from a BT landline plus network charges; cost from other networks may vary. Data protection BBC Worldwide Limited and Immediate Media Company Limited (publishers of BBC Good Food) would love to keep you informed by post, telephone or email of their special offers and promotions. Please state at time of ordering if you do not wish to receive these from BBC Worldwide or Immediate Media Company.
To order, call 01483 204455** quoting GF/0192 or visit shopatjem.co.uk/goodfood 120
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May 2015
EAT WELL
Satisfying midweek meals – all under 500 calories n Southern Indian curry made lighter n Delicious side dishes using grains n What to eat for a healthier gut Asian chicken spiralized salad
Pack a healthy lunchbox
LOW 3 OF 5 EASY LOW FAT CAL FOLATE A DAY
SERVES 2 PREP 15 mins NO COOK 1
/2 cucumber, spiralized or sliced into ribbons 2 carrots, spiralized or sliced into ribbons 100g bag crisp salad leaves (a mix of radicchio, frisée and round lettuce) 4 spring onions, fnely sliced 200g pack roast chicken pieces 2 tsp sesame seeds FOR THE DRESSING 2 tbsp sesame oil 11/2 tbsp rice wine vinegar 11/2 tbsp low-salt soy sauce 1 /2 tbsp freshly grated ginger 1 tsp golden caster sugar
Layer the salad ingredients into 2 plastic containers if you’re packing to take to work, or put them in a large bowl. Make the dressing by combining all the ingredients in a jar with a lid, add some seasoning and shake well. Put the dressing in 2 small pots to pack into your lunchboxes, or toss through the salad if eating straight away. PER SERVING energy 277 kcals • fat 8g • saturates 1g • carbs 14g • sugars 13g • fibre 5g • protein 35g • salt 1.6g ■ Want to buy a spiralizer? Turn to
Recipe CHELSIE COLLINS | Photograph STUART OVENDEN | Food styling NATALIE THOMSON | Styling SARAH BIRKS
page 44 for our best buys.
May 2015
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The ultimate recipe for…
NEW SERIES
good gut health In this series we’ll be giving you a new recipe aimed at a specifc health concern, plus practical advice from Kerry Torrens, our Nutritional therapist. This month – a recipe to promote good gut health Recipe SARA BUENFELD Photograph ROB STREETER
WHAT ELSE CAN I DO? LOVE YOUR GUT WITH THESE FOODS
Eat smaller meals
n A staple in many cultures,
more frequently rather than overloading your system, particularly in the evening. Ideally, your main meal should be at lunch to allow your food plenty of time to be digested.
fermented foods like kimchi, sauerkraut and miso are natural sources of benefcial bacteria. These promote good digestion, boost immunity and increase your resistance to infection. A small pot of live bio-yogurt every day will top up levels of friendly gut bacteria. Find recipes for kimchi and miso soup at bbcgoodfood.com. n Fuel up – the beneficial bacteria in your gut need their own fuel source, a certain type of fbre called inulin is great for this – find it in leeks, onions, chicory and asparagus. Turn to p18 for our asparagus recipes. n Add fibre to your diet with wholegrains, nuts and seeds, on top of your 5-a-day fruit and veg. If you suffer from wind and bloating, ease off on cabbage, Brussels sprouts, beans and pulses, and
focus on more gentle soluble fibre, such as oats and brown rice. Make sure you drink more liquids to help the fibre do its work effectively. n Cook with coconut oil. Although it’s high in saturated fats, it is a healthy choice as it’s stable at high temperatures, making it ideal for roasting. Most of the saturated fats in coconut oil are medium-chain triglycerides (MCTs), which are used more efficiently by the body, and are less likely to be stored as fat. One of the fatty acids in coconut oil, lauric acid, helps to fight bad bacteria, keeping the gut healthy. n By tenderising meat and fsh before cooking, you’ll help to lighten the load on your digestive system. Lemon and lime juice work well as a marinade, as do pineapple and papaya, which contain natural enzymes that make food easier to break down.
If you suffer from indigestion or heartburn, avoid highly-spiced food and stronger favours, including chocolate, alcohol and caffeine, which can act as triggers. Our recipe uses subtle spices which are gentler on the system. Take time over your meals. Chew well – good digestion starts in the mouth.
Take regular exercise and try to maintain a healthy weight.
If you suffer from recurrent indigestion, heartburn or notice a consistent change in your bowel habits, talk to your GP.
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Indian spiced chicken with squash & beans LOW 4 OF 5 EASY LOW FAT CAL CALCIUM FIBRE VIT C IRON A DAY GLUTEN FREE
SERVES 2 PREP 15 mins plus marinating COOK 40 mins
150ml/1/4pt bio yogurt 1 tbsp fnely grated ginger 1 /2 tsp ground turmeric 1 tsp ground cumin 4 skinless chicken thigh fllets (about 250g/9oz), cut into big chunks 200g/7oz butternut squash, cut into bite-sized chunks (no need to peel) 1 tbsp coconut oil 2 red onions, halved and thickly sliced 1 garlic clove 4 sprigs mint, leaves picked 25g/1oz coriander, chopped 300g can red kidney beans, drained and rinsed grated zest and juice 1/2 lime 1 head of chicory, thickly sliced
1 Put 2 tbsp of the yogurt in a bowl with the spices, chicken and a really good grinding of black pepper, and set aside for 30 mins, or longer if you have time, to marinate. 2 Heat oven to 200C/180C fan/gas 6. Arrange the squash on a large baking tray, crumble over the coconut oil (as it will be solid at this stage) and roast for 20 mins. Add the onions and chicken, spaced apart, and roast for 20 mins more until everything is cooked. 3 Meanwhile, put the rest of the yogurt in a bowl with the garlic, mint and two-thirds of the coriander, and blitz with a hand blender until smooth. Tip the beans and remaining coriander into a bowl, and add the lime zest and juice with a couple of tbsp of the yogurt dressing. Tip in the squash, onions and chicken, add the chicory and toss everything together. Pile onto plates and drizzle with the remaining dressing. (If eating cold as a packed lunch, take the dressing in a pot and dress the salad when ready to eat.) PER SERVING energy 477 kcals • fat 13g • saturates 7g • carbs 42g • sugars 21g • fibre 13g • protein 41g • salt 1.4g
May 2015
Food styling EMILY KYDD | Illustration RACHEL BAYLY
Good digestion is one of the cornerstones of our well-being, and more and more medical experts are turning their attention to how we can look after our gut to keep it working effciently. All too often we take it for granted – until something goes awry. As we get older, symptoms like indigestion, heartburn and bloating can become more pronounced, and our system gets more sluggish. That’s because our digestive system slows down as we age, while modern-day habits – such as snacking on the go or eating too many processed foods – can put the naturally good gut bacteria out of balance. Also, most of us don’t eat enough fbre, so it’s no wonder problems arise. So what can you do?
Eat well
PACKED WITH SO MANY GOOD INGREDIENTS Bio yogurt Will help to top Coriander Aids digestion,
l
fghts nausea and eases stomach discomfort. Most effective when used fresh as a garnish.
up gut-friendly bacteria. Be consistent and eat it regularly to optimise the effects.
Lime A digestive tonic that may relieve heartburn and nausea.
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Kidney beans Coconut oil Buy virgin,
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unrefned coconut oil, which is richer in protective antioxidants.
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Onion Contains
Supply both soluble and insoluble fbre, and promote bowel regularity.
inulin, a prebiotic that encourages healthy gut bacteria.
Cumin Stimulates digestive juices and reduces bloating.
Mint Helps to
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relieve indigestion and soothes the stomach.
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Butternut squash A source of cleansing fbre and easily absorbed carotenoids that may protect against some cancers and eye disease. Cook squash in the skin to preserve the nutrients.
Turmeric Is an
anti-infammatory and useful for those suffering from excess wind.
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Ginger Protects and heals Chicory A naturally bitter
the gut, relieves indigestion and is a natural soother. Peel carefully so you don’t lose benefcial nutrients. l
vegetable that stimulates digestive juices. You’ll get more of the vitamin C, folate and beta-carotene content if you eat it raw.
Chicken A lean
Pepper Aids digestion and stimulates appetite. Buy whole peppercorns and grind as required to optimise their active properties.
May 2015
bbcgoodfood.com
source of protein, the darker meat is rich in minerals like iron, selenium and zinc.
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Make it healthier
FISH CURRY Angela Nilsen gives this takeaway favourite a makeover so that you can still enjoy a luxurious creamy curry
So I have come up with ways to keep the characteristic creaminess and taste, while dramatically lowering the amount of fat and calories. My frst challenge was to create a silky-smooth sauce using reduced-fat coconut milk. Unlike the full-fat version, it has a tendency to separate when it’s heated. I found that by simmering half of it frst until it thickened, then pouring in the rest and letting it simmer again, I created a stable sauce. However, simmering the reducedfat version for too long can also cause splitting, so to cut down the cooking time, I part-cooked the fsh on the hob, then removed it and let it fnish off in the heat of the sauce. I used a non-stick frying pan to cook the onion, garlic, ginger and spices, which meant I could use less oil – and by frying with rapeseed oil, the saturated fat was reduced. So, with just a few small adjustments to ingredients and cooking methods, I had managed to cut right back on the fat and calories. Finally, I wanted the dish to contribute to your 5-a-day. Since mango is a popular addition to some south Indian curries, I added slices to the sauce as the fsh fnished cooking. Its delicate taste complemented the fsh and, along with some steamed green beans, the recipe now provides 1 of your 5-a-day.
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How I made it healthier n I reduced fat and
saturated fat by using reduced-fat coconut milk. n Saturated fat was lowered even further by cooking with rapeseed oil. n To increase the 5-a-day and vitamin C, I included fresh green beans and slices of mango.
What if I...
Q
Used a 400g can of full-fat coconut milk instead of reduced fat? The calories would increase to 566 kcals. The fat would increase to 22.9g (15.5g sat fat) per serving and the recipe would lose its low fat and low calorie status.
A
Lighter South Indian fsh curry LOW 1 OF 5 GOOD GLUTEN EASY LOW FAT CAL FOLATE VIT C A DAY 4 YOU FREE
SERVES 4 PREP 20 mins COOK 20 mins
1 tbsp rapeseed oil 1 /2 tsp cumin seeds 1 medium onion, halved lengthways and thinly sliced into wedges 3 garlic cloves, fnely chopped 1 tbsp fnely chopped ginger (about a 2.5cm/1in piece) 12 dried curry leaves 1 tsp black mustard seeds 2 small green chillies, halved lengthways, deseeded (or leave a few seeds in if you want a bit of heat) 1 tsp ground coriander 1 /2 tsp garam masala 1 /4 tsp turmeric 400g can reduced-fat coconut milk 1 /4 tsp ground black pepper 500g/1lb 2oz skinned, frm white fsh fllets, such as cod or haddock 100g/4oz fne green beans, trimmed and halved lengthways 1 ripe mango generous handful roughly chopped coriander, leaves only 200g/7oz basmati rice, cooked, and lime wedges, to serve
Angela's top tips n For the neatest mango slices, cut down either side of the central mango stone to give you two cheeks of mango. Remove the peel and slice the cheeks into thin wedges. n If you part-cook the fsh on the heat, then remove it and let it fnish cooking in the warmth from the pan, it will stay succulent and frm and is less likely to break up and overcook.
1 Heat the oil in a large non-stick frying or sauté pan. Add the cumin seeds and fry for 1 min, then tip in the onion, garlic and ginger, and fry for 1 min more. Stir in the curry leaves and mustard seeds, and fry about 3-4 mins on a medium heat, stirring occasionally, until the onions are turning brown. Stir in the chillies, coriander, garam masala and turmeric, and fry for 30 secs. 2 Stir the coconut milk in the can, then pour half into the pan. It should start to bubble and thicken, so let it simmer until quite thick, about 3 mins, stirring occasionally. Pour in the rest of the coconut milk, add the pepper and a pinch of salt, and lower the heat. 3 Sit the fsh in the coconut milk and press it down to half submerge it. Cover the pan and simmer gently for 4-5 mins (depending on the thickness of your fllets) until the fsh is almost cooked. Do not stir or the fsh will break up – just spoon some of the sauce over the top of the fsh halfway through, then remove the pan from the heat and let the fsh sit for another 3-4 mins to fnish cooking slowly. When done, it should feel frm and no longer be opaque. If you want a thinner sauce, pour in a spoonful or two of water. 4 Meanwhile, steam the green beans for about 4 mins until just tender. De-stone the mango and slice the fesh into thin wedges (see tip left), then scatter over the fsh to warm through. 5 To serve, break the fsh into big chunks by removing it to serving bowls with a slotted spoon, then pour the sauce over and around it. Serve with the beans, a scattering of coriander and the rice, with lime wedges on the side to squeeze over. PER SERVING energy 447 kcals • fat 10.9g • saturates 5.9g • carbs 55.9g • sugars 14.9g • fibre 3.2g • protein 29.6g • salt 0.4g
PER SERVING
CLASSIC FISH CURRY
MY LIGHTER VERSION
kcals
625
447
fat
32.7g
10.9g
saturates
22.2g
5.9g
salt
0.9g
0.4g
bbcgoodfood.com
THE VERDICT My tasters enjoyed the subtle heat of the curry (created by leaving a few chilli seeds in) and found it creamy without being cloying. With the changes I have made, fat is down 67%, saturated fat 73% and the calories reduced by 28%. This means the dish qualifes as low-fat, low-calorie and good for you.
May 2015
Photograph, food styling and styling ANGELA NILSEN
Coconut is an important ingredient in many south Indian fsh curries for the special creamy richness it provides. However, it’s also high in fat, especially saturated fat.
Eat well
Less than half the fat
May 2015
bbcgoodfood.com
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e ril u p iss 4 A ay e 2 M al s n o
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Eat well
3 HEALTHY SIDES Love your grains with these satisfying salads Recipes MIRIAM NICE Photograph STUART OVENDEN
Pearled spelt with tarragon & red grapes EASY
1 OF 5 FIBRE A DAY
SERVES 4 PREP 15 mins COOK 15-20 mins
250g/9oz pearled spelt 1 tbsp Dijon mustard 1 tbsp red wine vinegar 2 tbsp rapeseed oil small pack tarragon, leaves only, chopped 250g/9oz red grapes, halved
1 Rinse the spelt in a sieve under cold running water, then put in a saucepan and cover with more cold water. Bring to the boil, reduce to a simmer and cook for 15-20 mins. 2 Meanwhile, whisk together the Dijon mustard and vinegar, then continue to whisk as you slowly pour in the oil. Season to taste and add the tarragon. 3 Drain the spelt and rinse it again in cold water. Tip into a dish, pour over the dressing and mix well. Stir in the grapes and serve.
Goes well with Garlicky lamb cutlets, p24
Serve alongside Taleggio tart with walnut pastry, p76
PER SERVING energy 320 kcals • fat 8g • saturates 1g • carbs 49g • sugars 14g • fibre 7g • protein 10g • salt 0.5g
Bulghar wheat & rocket tabbouleh EASY
GOOD VIT C 4 YOU
Quinoa, pea & avocado salad
SERVES 4 PREP 15 mins COOK 10-12 mins EASY
Food styling NATALIE THOMSON
100g/4oz bulghar wheat juice 1 lemon 1 /2 tsp cinnamon 1 /2 tsp allspice pinch of ground cloves 1 tbsp olive oil 70g bag rocket small pack fat-leaf parsley, chopped 2 spring onions, sliced 110g pack pomegranate seeds (or seeds from 1 pomegranate)
1 OF 5 GLUTEN FIBRE A DAY FREE
SERVES 4 PREP 20 mins NO COOK
100g/4oz frozen peas juice 1 lemon 2 tbsp olive oil 1 /2 small pack mint, leaves only, chopped 1 /2 small pack chives, snipped 250g pack ready-to-eat red & white quinoa mix (we used Merchant Gourmet) 1 avocado, stoned, peeled and chopped into chunks 75g bag pea shoots
1 Rinse the bulghar wheat in a sieve under cold running water, then tip it into a large saucepan and cover with cold water. Bring to the boil, then simmer for 10-12 mins or until tender. Drain and tip into a large bowl. 2 Pour the lemon juice into a jug. Add the spices, then whisk continuously as you add the olive oil. Season well, then pour over the bulghar. 3 Fold through the rocket, parsley and spring onions, scatter over the pomegranate seeds and serve.
1 Put the peas in a large heatproof bowl, pour over just-boiled water, then set aside. 2 Pour the lemon juice into a small bowl and whisk in some seasoning. Keep whisking as you slowly add the olive oil, followed by the mint and chives. 3 Drain the peas and tip into a large serving dish. Stir in the quinoa, breaking up any clumps. Pour over the dressing, then fold in the avocado and pea shoots. Serve immediately.
PER SERVING energy 146 kcals • fat 4g • saturates none • carbs 23g • sugars 4g • fibre 2g • protein 4g • salt 0.1g
PER SERVING energy 275 kcals • fat 17g • saturates 3g • carbs 22g • sugars 2g • fibre 6g • protein 6g • salt 0.5g
May 2015
bbcgoodfood.com
Great with Poached salmon & asparagus, p20
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A week of low-cal meals
Beer-battered fsh
Balsamic steak with white bean mash
GOOD EASY LOW FAT 4 YOU
SERVES 4 PREP 20 mins COOK 25 mins
1 OF 5 GLUTEN EASY A DAY FREE
11/2–2 litres sunfower oil 2 tbsp plain four 4 x 200g skinless white fsh fllets, such as haddock, cod or hake oven chips and tartare sauce, to serve (optional) FOR THE BATTER 40g cornfour 100g plain four 1 tsp paprika (not smoked) 100ml real ale, chilled 50ml fzzy water, chilled 1 tbsp white wine vinegar
SERVES 2 PREP 10 mins COOK 15 mins
2 x 150g beef fllet steaks sunfower oil, for spraying or brushing 100g baby button mushrooms, halved or quartered if large 125g cherry tomatoes, halved 2 tbsp thick balsamic vinegar green salad, to serve (optional) FOR THE BEAN MASH 2 x 400g cans butter beans or cannellini beans, drained and rinsed 1 /2 garlic clove, crushed 1 tsp extra virgin olive oil
1 Trim any hard fat from the beef. Season the steaks with 1/2 tsp salt and 1 tsp black pepper. 2 Spray or brush a large non-stick frying pan with oil and place over a medium-high heat. Add the steaks and fry for 3-4 mins each side (5-6 mins each side if you prefer it well done, depending on the thickness). 3 When you’ve turned the steaks, add the mushrooms and tomatoes to the pan, and cook until the mushrooms are lightly browned and the tomatoes are softened, stirring occasionally. 4 Meanwhile, make the bean mash. Put the beans in a food processor with the garlic, 6 tbsp cold water, 1/2 tsp faked sea salt and a few twists of ground black pepper. Blitz until smooth, pushing the mixture down with a spatula if necessary. Put the mash in a small saucepan and heat gently, stirring until hot. Drizzle with the extra virgin olive oil before serving. 5 Remove the frying pan from the heat and transfer the steaks to 2 warmed plates. Pour the vinegar and 2 tbsp cold water into the hot pan, off the heat, and bubble for a few secs, stirring to lift any juicy bits from the bottom. Pour over the steaks and serve with the mash and a green salad, if you like. PER SERVING energy 227 kcals • fat 9g • saturates 4g • carbs 5g • sugars 4g • fibre 2g • protein 32g • salt 1.5g
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1 Fill a large pan one-third full of water and bring to the boil. Add the potatoes and return to the boil. Cook for 15 mins or until just tender. 2 Heat oven to 220C/200C fan/gas 7. Drain the potatoes in a colander. Spray a baking tray with oil and tip the potatoes onto the baking tray, then crush roughly with a spatula to break the skins. Spray with oil and season with sea salt and lots of ground black pepper. Bake for 15 mins or until the edges are crisp and golden. 3 While the potatoes cook, mix the tuna and mayonnaise, then lightly stir in the sweetcorn and spring onions. 4 Take the potatoes out of the oven and spoon the tuna mixture on top to serve.
1 To make the batter, mix the cornfour, four, paprika and 1/2 tsp fne sea salt in a large bowl. Make a well in the centre and stir in the ale, fzzy water and vinegar. Beat with a large metal whisk to make a smooth batter with the consistency of double cream. 2 Fill a large, deep saucepan one-third full with oil and heat to 190C. Use a cooking thermometer to check the temperature regularly. Do not allow the oil to overheat, or leave hot oil unattended. Alternatively, use an electric deep-fat fryer heated to 190C. Heat oven to 220C/200C fan/gas 7. 3 Put the four in a wide dish and season with salt. Add the fsh fllets and turn to coat them in the seasoned four. 4 When the oil has reached 190C, stir the batter well. Take a foured fsh fllet and dip it in the batter to coat it. Lift it out with 2 forks and gently shake off the excess batter. Lower the fsh gently into the hot oil. Watch out for splashes as it will be extremely hot. Cook for 11/2 mins, then lift out with tongs and place on a rack over a baking tray. 5 Pre-fry the other fllets in the same way. Bake the fsh together in the oven for 15 mins or until crisp. Serve with a small portion of oven chips and some tartare sauce, if you like (but remember that this will add extra calories).
PER SERVING energy 206 kcals • fat 6g • saturates 1g • carbs 30g • sugars 5g • fibre 3g • protein 8g • salt 0.7g
PER SERVING energy 376 kcals • fat 7g • saturates 1g • carbs 36g • sugars 1g • fibre 1g • protein 40g • salt 1.0g
Tuna & sweetcorn cheat’s jackets LOW GOOD EASY LOW FAT CAL 4 YOU
potatoes only SERVES 4 PREP 5 mins COOK 30 mins
500g small new potatoes sunfower oil, for spraying 120g can tuna steak in water or brine, drained 3 tbsp light mayonnaise 198g can sweetcorn, drained 4 spring onions, thinly sliced
bbcgoodfood.com
May 2015
Eat well
Eat better and still enjoy your favourites with these new recipes – they are all under 500 calories per serving
Thai red chicken curry LOW 2 OF 5 GOOD EASY LOW FAT CAL VIT C A DAY 4 YOU
SERVES 4 PREP 20 mins COOK 15 mins
sunfower oil, for spraying or brushing 4 skinless chicken breasts, cut into thick strips 2 tbsp red Thai curry paste 1 tbsp cornfour 150g baby sweetcorn, halved lengthways if large 1 red and 1 yellow pepper, deseeded and cut into bite-sized chunks 150g sugar snap peas 400g can reduced-fat coconut milk, shaken well 1 tbsp Thai fsh sauce 1 tbsp lemongrass paste (from a jar) 4 fresh, frozen or dried lime leaves 1 tbsp soft dark brown sugar coriander and basil leaves, to serve (optional)
1 Spray a large, deep non-stick frying pan or wok with oil, add the chicken and cook over a medium heat for 2 mins, stirring, until it is lightly coloured on both sides. Stir in the curry paste and cook for 1 min more. 2 Mix the cornfour with 2 tbsp cold water in a small bowl. Add the vegetables to the chicken and stir-fry for 1 min. Stir in the coconut milk, 70ml of water and the cornfour mixture. Add the fsh sauce, lemongrass paste, lime leaves and sugar. Bring to a simmer and cook for 5 mins or until the chicken and vegetables are tender. 3 Ladle into deep bowls, picking out the lime leaves, and serve scattered with coriander and basil, if you like. PER SERVING energy 322 kcals • fat 10g • saturates 6g • carbs 22g • sugars 13g • fibre 4g • protein 34g • salt 1.4g
Roasted squash, tomato & spinach lasagne EASY
LOW LOW CALCIUM FOLATE FIBRE VIT C FAT CAL
3 OF 5 A DAY
1 Heat oven to 220C/200C fan/gas 7. Put the squash on a large baking tray. Toss with the oil and season with the dried chilli fakes and lots of black pepper. Bake for 20 mins. 2 Take the tray out of the oven and turn the squash. Scatter over the onions and tomatoes and return to the oven for a further 20-25 mins or until the vegetables are tender and lightly charred. 3 Meanwhile, make the sauce. Put the butter, four and milk in a large non-stick saucepan and bring to a gentle simmer, whisking continuously with a silicone whisk. 4 Cook for 3 mins or until the sauce is thickened and smooth. Add both cheeses and season. Cook for 2 mins more, stirring, until the cheeses have melted. Take off the heat and carefully cover the sauce with a piece of cling flm to prevent a skin forming. 5 Fill a large saucepan about one-third full with water and bring to the boil. Add the lasagne, return to the boil and cook for 6–8 mins or until just tender, turning with tongs. 6 Add the spinach leaves to the hot water. As soon as they are wilted, remove the pan from the heat and drain the pasta and spinach in a large colander. Rinse quickly in cold water until the pasta is cool enough to handle. Squeeze out as much excess water from the spinach as possible. 7 Arrange the roasted veg, lasagne and spinach leaves loosely in a lasagne dish or small roasting tin. Sprinkle over the balsamic vinegar, pour on the cheese sauce and season with black pepper. Bake for 20-25 mins or until lightly browned and bubbling. PER SERVING energy 438 kcals • fat 14g • saturates 7g • carbs 55g • sugars 22g • fibre 8g • protein 19g • salt 0.7g
SERVES 4 PREP 20 mins COOK 1 hr 30 mins
1 butternut squash (about 700g), peeled, deseeded and cut into bite-sized chunks 2 tsp olive oil 1 tsp dried chilli fakes 2 medium onions, cut into wedges 6 large ripe tomatoes, halved 100g dried lasagne sheets (about 6) 100g mature spinach leaves, tough stalks removed 2 tsp thick balsamic vinegar FOR THE SAUCE 25g butter 50g plain four 600ml semi-skimmed milk 50g half-fat mature cheddar, coarsely grated 15g Parmesan, fnely grated
Recipes adapted from Without the Calories: Quick and Easy and Without the Calories: Comfort Food by Justine Pattison (£14.99 each, Orion). Photographs © Cristian Barnett. You can buy these books for £13.49 each. Simply call 01326 569444, p&p is free. Or buy online at sparkledirect.com/goodfood
TIP Adding cornfour to the curry sauce helps to stabilise the coconut milk. It also makes the curry taste extra creamy and luxurious.
May 2015
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To order, call 0844 493 5654** quoting 48460 or visit clifford-james.co.uk/48460 May 2015
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Cook school
CHOOSING CHEESE FOR VEGETARIANS?
WHICH RAISING AGENT? If you enjoy baking, you probably have both baking powder and bicarbonate of soda in your cupboard. The pots often look similar, but don’t be tempted to swap them – they work differently, and your cake will fall fat if you use the wrong one.
Nowadays, the majority of British cheeses are suitable for vegetarians, as they are made using vegetarian rennet to coagulate the milk (traditional rennet is derived from the stomachs of newborn calves). The exceptions are a handful of traditional farmhouse cheeses, including some cheddars and Stiltons. Even if a cheese is not specifcally labelled ‘vegetarian’, check the label or ask your cheesemonger. With French and Italian cheeses, many of the famous names are made from centuries-old recipes, and therefore use animal rennet. Again, check labels, but the best-known cheeses ‘of protected origins’ are to be avoided: Brie de Meaux, Camembert de Normandie, Gruyère, Roquefort and Gorgonzola. However, the frst three are available in British, vegetarianfriendly versions, and the last two are easily switched for a feisty British blue, such as Blue Vinney. Parmesan can be an issue for vegetarians too. Parmigiano Reggiano, Gran Padano and Pecorino Romano are all made with animal rennet. The best British alternatives, offering similarly deep favour and a salty crunch, are Old Smales (also known as Old Winchester) and Twineham Grange. They’re not stocked in supermarkets, but you can buy them online. Two great websites, which specify which of their cheeses are suitable for vegetarians, are finecheese.co.uk (based in Bath) and nealsyarddairyshop. co.uk (featuring mainly British cheeses, and based in London).
Bicarbonate of soda (also called baking soda or sodium bicarbonate) is an alkaline substance. When it is mixed with moisture and an acidic ingredient, it develops gases that make your cake rise. This is why you’ll often see acidic ingredients in recipes that use bicarb, such as lemon juice, yogurt or buttermilk. Baking powder is made from a combination of bicarbonate of soda, and a dried acidic powder, cream of tartar – so it does not require additional acidic ingredients. When mixed with wet ingredients and heated, a chemical reaction takes place, causing your cake to rise.
CALLING ALL TOFU HATERS Cookery assistant Chelsie Collins wasn’t looking forward to testing our tofu recipes on page 27. ‘I’ve never liked tofu, and I didn’t think I ever would. But these recipes have changed everything – each one was delicious, and I am now a tofu convert.’
NICE & SQUEEZY Here’s how to slice lemon wedges so that they won’t squirt anyone in the eye! The tip comes from Consultant editor Orlando Murrin, who spent six years as a chef in southwest France. He reckons he must have cut up a few thousand lemons for guests to squeeze over meat or fsh. This method also works for limes.
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We’re here to help you be a better cook, so we’re sharing tips, techniques and know-how from the Test Kitchen this month
Cut the lemon in half lengthways, then cut each half into three to make six wedges.
Trim the ends of each wedge.
bbcgoodfood.com
May 2015
Cook school THE RIGHT PAPER FOR THE JOB
KNIFE TRICK
l Greaseproof paper is best for
Assistant food editor Miriam Nice was dubious when she was told that a trick for halving grapes would ‘change her life’. However, it really worked when she created her recipe for Pearled spelt with tarragon & red grapes, p127.
wrapping foods, and layering between foods that are inclined to stick together (such as pancakes). l Baking parchment (or baking paper) is both non-stick and ovenproof; when used for lining sheets or tins, there is normally no need to grease. l Waxed paper (sold by Lakeland as ‘Food Saver Paper’) is a heavier-duty paper to keep foods fresh. Great for wrapping cheese and picnic food.
1
CLEVER FIX
l
Feature compiled by ORLANDO MURRIN | Photographs ISTOCKPHOTO, GETTY IMAGES, RACHEL BAYLY | Illustrations REBECCA BRIDAL, MIRIAM NICE
Find two dinner plates the same size. Turn the frst one upside down and arrange the grapes within the base (to stop them rolling off).
Oven-roasting cauliflower transforms this great British vegetable from watery florets to something spectacularly flavoursome and crunchy. You might think you need to blanch it before roasting, but when we tried it in the Test Kitchen, we found that par-boiling removes all the crunch (and most of the flavour). So trust us – roast from raw.
Farmers wouldn’t be without their baler twine – the tough synthetic cord that is used to keep bales of hay and straw in tight confnement. Often it seems to be what’s holding the whole countryside together, used on gates, fences, stiles… If you can get hold of some clean new twine from a friendly farmer, here’s a great tip for your gadget drawer. Knot a generous loop (it comes in blue, yellow and orange) around those small metal tools that you can never lay your hands on, such as measuring spoons and skewers. You’ll be able to spot them instantly, and the baler twine is fne to go in the dishwasher.
May 2015
2
Gently lay the other plate on top, right-side up, press lightly with one hand and use a bread knife or long serrated knife to carve between the two. This neat trick also works for cherry tomatoes.
ONE CLOVE OF GARLIC… can transform a salad. Cut it in half and use it to rub your salad bowl. Next, heat the halves gently in butter and oil (without browning), then remove and make croutons in the garlic oil. Crush or fnely chop the (by now mellow) garlic and add to dressings.
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Learn to make gyoza
If you’ve eaten these delicate dumplings in a Japanese restaurant, you might fancy making them at home – they’re surprisingly achievable. Yuki Gomi shows you how Photographs DAVID COTSWORTH
Gyoza These meat or vegetable dumplings, wrapped in a thin dough, are popular in Japan, and a similar version (called jiaozi) is eaten in China. The dumplings can be steamed, cooked in a broth, deep-fried or, as here, crisped on the underside and steamed – known as yaki gyoza. This variety of dumpling is also known as ‘pot stickers’. MORE OF A CHALLENGE flling and wrappers separately SERVES 4-6 (makes 26 gyoza) PREP 40 mins COOK 10 mins
2 tbsp cornfour 26 ready-made gyoza skins, defrosted if frozen (see ‘Where to buy’, opposite) 2-3 tbsp vegetable oil FOR THE FILLING 4 spring onions, ends trimmed, roughly chopped 2 large leaves of Savoy or pointed cabbage, hard stem removed, roughly chopped a 1.5cm/5/8in piece of ginger, peeled and chopped 1 garlic clove 50g/2oz water chestnuts, about 5 (drained weight) 2 tsp soy sauce 2 tsp oyster sauce 1 tsp cooking sake 1 /2 tsp sesame oil 140g/5oz minced pork or chicken FOR THE SOY DIPPING SAUCE 2 tbsp soy sauce 1 tbsp rice vinegar 2 tsp sesame oil FOR THE YUZU DIPPING SAUCE 2 tbsp soy sauce 2 tbsp yuzu juice 2 tsp peanut oil
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Put the spring onions, cabbage, ginger and garlic in a food processor, and whizz to a fine mix (or finely chop by hand).
Have a pot of water to hand. Sprinkle the cornflour onto a plate. To assemble the gyoza, hold the dumpling skin in the palm of one hand and put a heaped teaspoon of the filling onto the centre of the skin.
Add the water chestnuts and pulse to chop, but not too fnely – these will add a nice crunchy texture. Add the soy sauce, oyster sauce, sake, sesame oil and a pinch of salt, and whizz again.
Dip your finger in the water and wipe around the edge of the skin – this will moisten it and help the edges stick together.
Tip the ingredients into a bowl and add the minced pork or chicken. Mix by hand until well combined. Chill until ready to use.
Bring the edges of the skin together. Pinch pleats along one side, then press each pleat against the opposite flat side of the skin. With each pinch make sure that you are sealing the parcel and keeping the filling in the centre. Put each gyoza onto the plate dusted with cornflour. Can be covered with cling film and chilled for up to 8 hrs.
PER SERVING (6) energy 197 kcals • fat 8g • saturates 2g • carbs 23g • sugars 1g • fibre 1g • protein 8g • salt 1.4g
n Japanese seven-favour chilli pepper, or shichimi togarashi, is often served alongside gyoza. Shichimi blends vary depending on the province, but typically include a mixture of dried chilli, Sichuan pepper, ground ginger, nori, sesame and poppy seeds, plus roasted orange peel. n Japanese gyoza skins are slightly thinner than the Chinese variety, resulting in a more delicate dumpling.
Where to buy n japancentre.com n souschef.co.uk n wingyipstore.co.uk n melburyandappleton.co.uk
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Cook the gyoza in batches. Heat a non-stick frying pan with 1 tbsp vegetable oil. Brush off any excess cornflour from the bases of the dumplings. Fry the gyoza on one side only – don’t turn them over, you just want one crispy side. They should be golden brown after about 2 mins.
Add a good splash of water to the pan Mix all the dipping sauce ingredients and cover with a steaming lid or a large and serve alongside the dumplings sheet of foil with a few holes poked in the top. in dipping bowls. You can serve with both Cook over a medium heat for 3-5 mins until or just one dipping sauce. the water has evaporated and the gyoza filling is cooked through. Set aside while you cook the rest.
bbcgoodfood.com
May 2015
Food styling and styling YUKI GOMI
For the authentic Japanese touch
Cook school
This variety of gyoza – known as pot stickers – is traditionally served with the crispy side facing up
About Yuki Yuki Gomi was born in a small town just outside Tokyo and trained as a chef at Le Cordon Bleu in America. She worked as a private chef for many years before setting up her own cookery school in London (yukiskitchen.com). She holds weekly classes teaching Japanese cuisine, including making noodles, ramen, sushi and gyoza. Her book, Sushi at Home, is published by Fig Tree (£18.99).
May 2015
Next month Learn how to make that retro favourite – Arctic roll
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Storecupboard heroes Oils There’s a huge variety of oils available, but which do you need in your kitchen? Orlando Murrin explains how to buy wisely, and reveals the health benefits Photographs STUART OVENDEN
Extra virgin olive oil This is cold pressed, meaning that it has a superior aroma and health benefts – it’s rich in protective compounds called polyphenols. Save extra virgin olive oil for dressings and drizzling, as it loses its aroma when heated. It varies hugely in colour and favour (not to mention price – up to £100 per litre). As a rule, olives picked when ripe give a more golden colour and milder favour, while underripe olives yield oil that is greener and more peppery in favour.
Sesame oil Use this distinctive, pungent oil sparingly, as a last- minute touch for Asian dishes and salads. Supplying a good balance of polyunsaturated and monounsaturated fats, the oil is usually made from toasted seeds, which concentrates the favour and gives it a dark amber colour. Once open, use within a month or two, as it quickly turns rancid.
Sunfower oil This light-tasting oil, a good source of vitamin E, is high in polyunsaturates. It is useful for baking and often found in recipes for carrot cake. Be aware that the cheaper, more refned versions tend to contain less of the healthier fats. Stick to the unrefned oils for cold dishes and for blending with olive oil. Use the more refned version, which has a higher smoke point, for frying and baking.
Groundnut oil The common name for peanut oil, this is light-favoured, inexpensive and produced all over the world. It has a relatively high saturated fat level, and is the best choice for stir-fries and deep-frying because of its high smoke point.
Not all fats are created equal Fats and oils are crucial for health. They help us to absorb the fat-soluble vitamins D, E and K, as well as the carotenoids we need to make vitamin A. We need to consume a balance of polyunsaturated, monounsaturated and even saturated fats (for vitamin D) to boost energy levels, promote our heart health, and beneft from their anti-infammatory properties. Undoubtedly, it’s the unsaturated fats (both mono- and poly-) that are the good guys, found in most of the oils on this page. With saturated fats, try to stick to your daily Reference Intake of 20g (see page 9). Trans fats, most commonly found in processed foods, are now considered the most damaging – keep these to an absolute minimum.
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Avocado oil Rich in monounsaturates and antioxidants, including vitamin E, this speciality oil helps to protect the heart and manage infammation. Pioneered in Australia and New Zealand, and made from avocado fesh rather than stones, it has an attractive grassy colour and a slightly nutty favour. Although expensive, it can be used for cooking and has a high smoke point. A classy touch drizzled over a mozzarella & tomato salad, or use as a base for salad dressings and marinades.
bbcgoodfood.com
May 2015
Cook school Which is best for frying? Each oil has its own smoke point (the temperature to which you can heat it before it smokes). The smoke point is also affected by how refned it is – refned oils have higher smoke points. For both deep- and shallow-frying, choose an oil with a high smoke point, which enables you to cook hotter and faster, reducing loss of nutrients and potentially absorbing less oil. Groundnut oil is best (225C), followed by rapeseed (210C), corn and regular olive (200C), and sunflower (190C). Oils lose their distinctive favour when heated, so save expensive ones for the table.
How long can you keep oils? Most oils will keep for a year or longer in a cool, dark place. Once open, use within three months. There is no particular advantage to keeping them in the fridge; some will go thick and/or turn cloudy, but they will return to normal when brought back to room temperature.
Nut oils Walnut oil (pictured), produced largely in France, Australia, New Zealand and the US, has a distinctive taste and provides mainly monounsaturated fat. The best versions have a rich, sweet favour – use sparingly for drizzling and dressings. Once open, use within a month. Hazelnut oil is more delicate – it makes an exquisite salad dressing teamed with raspberry vinegar. Other nut oils, such as almond and macadamia, are also high in heartfriendly monounsaturated fats – but virtually tasteless. Oil from coconuts – not technically a nut – is solid at room temperature and is very high in saturated fat. It adds a distinctive favour to bakes, and a rich fnishing touch stirred into Asian dishes. For more about the health benefts of coconut oil, turn to page 122.
Corn oil Unsurprisingly, this is made from maize and usually has a yellow tinge. It is high in polyunsaturated fats and, although a traditional choice for frying or deep-frying, groundnut or rapeseed oil are better options because of their higher smoke points.
Olive oil A cornerstone of the Mediterranean diet, olive oil is high in heart-friendly monounsaturated fat (although, like many other oils, it is still reasonably high in saturates). The regular, fltered version ranges from light to golden, and is best used for shallow-frying.
Vegetable oil An economical choice, this is often a blend of oils – for instance, rapeseed, sunfower and peanut. It is usually formulated to have a high smoke point and is therefore ideal for deep-frying. Some vegetable oils contain mass-produced oils such as soybean, saffower and cottonseed, which are used mainly in industrial food production.
Rapeseed oil Food styling NATALIE THOMSON | Styling SARAH BIRKS
Known in the US as canola oil, rapeseed oil is light-favoured and all-purpose. A good source of both poly- and monounsaturated fat, it contains the lowest saturated fat of any of the oils on this page, with less than half the amount found in olive oil. It is a good source of omegas 3, 6 and 9, which help to maintain healthy joints, and brain and heart functions (it has 10 times as much omega-3 as olive oil). British rapeseed oil (usually pricier than imported) is made from the bright yellow rape plant that you see in fower over vast swathes of the countryside at this time of year.
May 2015
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COMING NEXT MONTH Vinegars
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Fantastic getaways
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Go off the beaten track and discover more about the history and culture of Portugal and Italy, with these intriguing tours Explore the ancient city of Oporto, on the Douro
See Alberobello’s unusual trulli houses
Lisbon, Oporto and the Douro Valley
Apulia, Lecce & Vieste – Undiscovered Italy
Eight days from £909pp** Selected departures up to October 2015
Eight days half-board from only £959pp** Selected departures up to October 2015
You’ll discover the real Portugal on this tour, a rich and varied country with a proud history, refected in the fascinating cultural spots you’ll visit. It’s one of the world’s oldest countries, Britain’s longest ally and has been ruled by the Romans, Visigoths, the remarkable Moors and almost every other race of invaders ever since, all leaving their legacies.
See breathtaking, unspoilt scenery and visit some of Italy’s most extraordinary undiscovered cities and villages. They were colonised by the ancient Greeks in the 8th century; then came the Romans, Byzantines, Spanish and Bourbons, leaving this stunning region of southern Italy steeped in history.
Fully escorted price includes: Fully escorted price includes: n Return fights from Bristol, Dublin, Edinburgh, Gatwick, Heathrow, Liverpool, Luton and Manchester. n Seven nights four- and fve-star accommodation, with breakfast and four dinners. n Guided tour of Lisbon – with its squares, Baixa and Moorish quarters, cathedral and castle. n Visit to Sintra and its Royal Palace – summer residence of the Portuguese monarchy. n Visit the Monastery of Jerónimos. n See the holy shrine of Fátima - one of Catholicism’s most renowned pilgrimages. n Tour Coimbra University, with its gilded Baroque library of 300,000 medieval volumes. n Guided tour of Oporto, centre of the Port wine trade, and a visit to Taylor’s wine lodge. n Tour the Douro, one of Europe’s most dramatic river valleys. n Visit the 13th-century walled city of Obidos. n Escorted by our experienced tour manager.
n Return fights from London Gatwick or Stansted. n Seven nights four-star accommodation with half-boardr. n A journey discovering a collection of cultural and scenic gems. n Guided tour of Lecce, one of Italy’s fnest baroque towns. n Visit to Alberobello, home to the unique ‘trulli’ houses, with their conical roofs. n Guided tour of Matera, the incredible cave village and UNESCO world heritage site. n Visit to Bari’s old town, with its Romanesque cathedral, fnal resting place of St Nicholas – Father Christmas! n Visit to Castel del Monte, one of Italy’s medieval castles. n Stay in ancient Vieste’s old town, situated on the Adriatic coast. n Drive along the Gargano coast. n Tour the beautiful national park and Crusader church of Monte Sant’Angelo. n Escorted by our experienced tour manager.
Visit gdfriviera.co.uk to view our video highlights of the trip. Terms and conditions *You will be contacted by BBC Good Food magazine regarding your tickets for the BBC Good Food Show after your holiday. Holidays organised by and subject to the booking conditions of Riviera Travel, New Manor, 328 Wetmore Road, Burton upon Trent, Staffs DE14 1SP and are offered subject to availability. ABTA V4744 ATOL 3430 protected. Per person prices based on two sharing a twin room. **Single rooms and optional insurance available at a supplement.
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May 2015
From your kitchen We love to hear from you! Email enquiries@bbcgoodfoodmagazine.com or write to the address opposite Fussy eaters
I read Joanna Blythman’s article ‘How many ingredients does it take to make a cake?’ (April) with interest. For the past four or five years, I’ve become passionate about making food from scratch. I won’t buy anything that I can cook at home. I’m also very selective about which restaurants we go to, as so many places use unhealthy ingredients and additives. The most processed thing in our storecupboard is probably tinned tomatoes. I’m a firm believer that good food does
My mum bought me a subscription to Good Food last year and it’s been the best present ever. I’m an avid baker and regularly make the Cake Club recipes, as well as many others. This is the Espresso, chocolate & chilli cake (Oct 2014). Sioned Young, Cardiff
not have to take time or be expensive. For instance, a piece of meat bought from the butcher for less than £4 can be made into a nutritious meal for several adults, and is not complicated – it just takes a little thought. Nicki Murphy, Lincolnshire Nicki wins 12 bottles of Villa Maria Private Bin Gewürztraminer 2013 (£10.99, Waitrose). This white wine has classic aromas of rose petal, lychee and spice. Visit villamariaestate.co.uk.
I’m a devotee of Nigel Slater’s brownie recipe but was persuaded to make the Salted caramel brownies in your March issue. I wasn’t disappointed. Frances Auty, Glasgow I love Sunday morning baking. Here’s my attempt at the Simnel share ’n’ tear buns from the 2015 Good Food calendar. Mandy McGowan, Dublin
My husband, Mark, spent the morning causing chaos in the kitchen, but I couldn’t complain when he produced the Chorizo Scotch quail’s eggs (March). Leah Bowen, London
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This is my frst attempt at the Simnel Battenberg cake (March). I absolutely loved making it and it’s given me more confdence to try other baking projects. Sue Shaw, Northampton
I agree with lots of the advice in your article on feeding fussy children (March), and feel strongly that youngsters should be eating the same as the adults, in some form or another. My 11-year-old son, who has eaten with the adults from a very young age, will eat pretty much anything. Of course, he has a few hang-ups, but don’t we all? One of the best restaurants in our experience, in France, had no truck with children’s menus. But every day there was a mini plat du jour for them to try. My son, then fve, felt very grown-up as he ploughed through a mini boeuf Wellington or an escalope Milanese. Why do British restaurants not believe in the ability of children to be as discerning as adults, and instead serve them a ‘kids’ menu’? Maybe we have been lucky, but my advice to parents is to treat them like mini adults and they will most likely reward you for it. Louise Martin, Suffolk
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This is my dad making the Horseradish & mustard beef casserole (March). It was delicious. Every month he ficks through Good Food, pointing out the recipes he’d like me to make. This month I managed to convince him to cook it himself under instruction. I’m hoping he’ll cook more. Laura Hennessey, London BBC Good Food magazine is available in both audio and electronic formats from National Talking Newspapers and Magazines. For more information, please contact National Talking Newspapers and Magazines, National Recording Centre, Heathfeld, East Sussex TN21 8DB; email info@tnauk.org.uk; or call 01435 866102. If enquiring on behalf of someone who has trouble with their sight, please consult them frst.
May 2015
Recipe photograph WILL HEAP | Food styling SARAH COOK | Styling JENNY IGGLEDEN
STAR LETTER
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READER RECIPE Akoori (Indian scrambled eggs) EASY
1 OF 5 GLUTEN A DAY FREE
SERVES 4 PREP 10 mins COOK 8-10 mins
5 mins. Add the spices and cook for 1-2 mins more, stirring around the pan until aromatic. 2 Add the tomatoes, cook for 1 min, then pour in the eggs and lower the heat. Stir slowly to scramble the eggs as they cook, and remove from the heat while they are still a little runny. Continue stirring off the heat for 1 min more until the eggs are just set. 3 Stir through the coriander and serve with chapatis for a delicious breakfast or brunch.
1 tbsp butter 1 small red onion, fnely chopped 1 green or red chilli, deseeded and fnely chopped 2 garlic cloves, crushed 1 /4 tsp ground cumin 1 /4 tsp garam masala good pinch of turmeric 2 large tomatoes, deseeded and fnely chopped 7 eggs, beaten small pack coriander, roughly chopped 4 chapatis (or gluten-free alternative), lightly toasted, to serve
Test Kitchen verdict
1 Heat a large frying pan over a low-medium heat and add the butter. Gently fry the onion, chilli and garlic until the onion is soft – about
This Indian version of a breakfast classic is full of favour, and so simple to make. We toasted the chapatis by folding them into quarters and popping them in a toaster.
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PER SERVING energy 186 kcals • fat 13g • saturates 5g • carbs 4g • sugars 3g • fibre 1g • protein 12g • salt 0.3g
Send your recipe to the addresses below, or upload it on Instagram and tag us @bbcgoodfood, and you could win a prize. Jango wins Smeg’s Fifties-style, retroinspired TSF01 two-slice toaster, worth £99.99, in blue. Visit smeg50style.com/gb/ to see the whole range in a selection of bright and pastel hues.
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Jango Gazdar, a travel agent and wedding toastmaster, lives in London with his wife, Mandi, and their children, Amy, Robert and Louie. This recipe is one of Jango’s favourite quick and easy Indian dishes.
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Spice up your breakfast
May 2015
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The food chain
When I was a young pastry chef working for Marco Pierre White, all the chefs were talking about The Sugar Club in Soho. Who was this New Zealander? What was he doing? He was using the term ‘fusion food’, putting things together that hadn’t been combined before. In 2001, when I was developing Japanese food for Marks & Spencer, Peter did a demonstration for us about combining favours, and that’s when I met him. Over the years, we kept being drawn back together – we have a similar ethos about putting unusual things together. The key is not to say ‘no’, or ‘that can’t be done’, or ‘you shouldn’t put that with that’. About three years ago, we worked on a menu for National Chocolate Week for The Providores restaurant. We cooked together, talked and emailed a great deal, and tasted. It was all about being creative, chatting, having fun. Peter travels a lot, so he’s one of those friends whom I might not see for a while, but when we do see each other, we might as well be brothers. We both have tattoos, from different times, that are very alike. Mine are tribal tattoos – a modern take on Mayan and Aztec hieroglyphics, with black lines and bright colours. By a weird coincidence, Peter has black tribal tattoos with empty blocks and bright colours in them. They’re very similar in many ways. Peter has endless energy, which I’m a bit jealous of – it doesn’t seem to run out. I love spending time with him, and working on ideas. It’s like working with a twin. Sometimes we don’t even have to speak. paulayoung.co.uk
New Zealander Peter Gordon divides his time between London and Auckland, and has restaurants in both cities. He was executive chef at the infuential Sugar Club restaurants in the Nineties. Then in 2001, he opened the award-winning The Providores and Tapa Room, and in 2010, Kopapa, his second London restaurant.
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Paul A Young Peter Gordon
Paul and Peter share an intense work ethic and a playful curiosity about fusion food
Paul, when he opened his frst shop in Camden Passage, Islington, in 2006; Peter working at The Sugar Club on All Saints Road, Notting Hill, in 1995
‘Over the years, we kept being drawn back together – we have a similar ethos about putting unusual things together’
Don’t miss next month’s
The frst time I met Paul, he seemed really cheeky and hilarious, and asked lots of questions. I thought, what’s this guy doing here? Later, I realised that this Paul A Young I kept reading about was the person I’d met at Marks & Spencer. What he was doing with chocolate was similar to what I was doing with other food – being playful in the way he mixed ingredients. We’re kindred spirits when talking about favours – it’s inspirational. It’s very rare that he says something and I totally disagree with him. I like his dedication to his craft, that he was a chef who segued into a chocolatier. And I love his sustainable sourcing of products from exotic places, the cool ingredients, and sticking to his principals of using as much natural food as he can. We plan these holidays that we’ve never yet taken, that would involve swimming, relaxing and going to markets. This year I decided to learn the cello. I was in Berlin and went to see the Philharmonic in concert. I was blown away and left so inspired by it. I saw Paul a few days later and, because he plays the cornet, I thought maybe I could learn to be musical and we could have a little band. I like the idea of us playing together, with Marmite chocolate to keep us going. I wish we could spend more time together. He’s always busy and I travel all the time. I think we need to go somewhere where they grow chocolate and we can both get more tattoos, do lots of swimming, eat feasts and maybe record an album! Paul and Peter are collaborating on a chocolateinspired menu, which will be available at The Providores throughout July (theprovidores.co.uk).
on sale 29 May
Brand-new clean eating plan – recipes and advice • Summer tapas for friends • Korean supper for two 146
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May 2015
Interviews DEBORA ROBERTSON | Main portrait TOM MOGGACH
Paul A Young, who trained as a chef, worked for Marco Pierre White at Quo Vadis and Criterion before becoming a chocolatier. He is renowned worldwide for his innovations and has won many awards, including the Best Sea Salted Caramel Filled Chocolate at the International Chocolate Awards, twice. He has four chocolateries in London.