BA - August 2016 by Lawrence Ambrocio

BON APPÉTIT • VOLUME 61 NUMBER 8 THE COOL ISSUE

august Eat, swim, and repeat at an epic lake house vacation in Maine. P. 56

STA RT E R S

T H E B A K I TC H E N

C O LU M N S

14 COOK LIKE A PRO

33 FAST, EASY, FRESH

10 R.S.V.P.

Kimchi goes beyond cabbage.

Watermelon! Peaches! Tomatoes! Your simple weeknight meals couldn’t ask for more.

18 THE BA Q&A Olympic swimmer Natalie Coughlin has three breakfasts a day. BY DAVID WALTERS

BY ANDY BARAGHANI

40 A BA KITCHEN PRIMER

Dress your salads to impress with modern bowls and tongs.

Ice isn’t just for cooling drinks. It emulsifies liquids, keeps veg crunchy, and will become your new fave ingredient.

BY JOSIE ADAMS

BY CHRIS MOROCCO

22 THE BUY

24 RELAX! IT’S AUGUST Don’t Instagram while “working from home”—and other tips for making the most of the month. BY BEN SCHOTT

26 THE DRINK Iced coffee is going strong. BY LIZ CLAYTON

Reader requests plus our pie helpline.

49 NAVIGATOR: VERMONT BEER RUN The top-notch craft breweries alone are worth the trip, but it doesn’t hurt that Vermont also has stunning views and excellent food. BY ALEX DELANY AND BRAD LEONE

96 PREP SCHOOL The graham cracker that forever has our hearts, a sprout breakdown, and more.

102 BACK OF THE NAPKIN Actress Jessica Biel likes her ice cream vanilla and her sauce chocolate (with a cherry on top, of course). BY DAVID WALTERS

PHOTOGRAPH BY PEDEN + MUNK

IN EVERY ISSUE 8 editor’s letter 100 recipe index 100 sourcebook

2 • AU G U ST 2 0 1 6

B O N A P P E T I T.C O M THE COOL ISSUE

august F E AT U R E S

56 DOWN BY THE LAKE

82 BRING THE HEAT

Two chefs and their friends make the most of their glorious food-filled trip to the coast of Maine.

Overwhelmed by all those chiles at the market? Fear no more. Find out how to slice, seed, soak, and use them all in fresh, spicy dishes.

BY BELLE CUSHING; RECIPES BY JOSHUA M C FADDEN AND SARA KRAMER

70 HOLY CHARDONNAY! Finally, wines that echo the laid-back vibes of California. Meet the makers, grapes, and regions that are welcoming you back west. BY MARISSA A. ROSS

BY AMIEL STANEK; RECIPES BY CHRIS MOROCCO

90 CHILLER THAN MOST A Neapolitan bombe, cinnamon-sugar almond-butter bars, and more easy, cold, summer desserts— no ice cream maker required. BY CLAIRE SAFFITZ

74 SANDWICH SUPREME

ON THE COVER

Yeah, yeah, we know: Your lobster roll is the best. Your grilled cheese rules the school. But here’s how we do it.

Photograph by Michael Graydon + Nikole Herriott. Food styling by Ali Nardi. Prop styling by Angharad Bailey.

Cook with jalapeños and other chiles heating up summer. P. 82

HAVE A QUESTION ABOUT A RECIPE, OR A COMMENT? E-mail us at askba@bonappetit.com, or contact the editorial offices: Bon Appétit, 1 World Trade Center, New York, NY 10007. FOR SUBSCRIPTIONS AND CHANGES OF ADDRESS, call 800-765-9419 (515-243-3273 from outside the U.S.A.) or e-mail subscriptions@bonappetit.com. PRINTED IN THE U.S.A.

PHOTOGRAPH BY MARCUS NILSSON. FOOD STYLING BY CHRIS LANIER.

BY CHRIS MOROCCO

“

HOW DO YO U C O O L DOWN ON A H O T DAY ?

Editor in Chief

ADAM RAPOPORT Creative Director ALEX GROSSMAN Director, Strategy & Operations BETTY WONG ORTIZ Deputy Editor ANDREW KNOWLTON Food Director CARLA LALLI MUSIC

“

Features Editor KURT SOLLER Senior Editors JULIA KRAMER, MERYL ROTHSTEIN Associate Editor AMIEL STANEK Assistant Editor BELLE CUSHING Contributing Editorial Assistant ASHLEY MASON

“CANNONBALL!”

Editor at Large CHRISTINE MUHLKE Art Director KRISTIN EDDINGTON Senior Designer ALAINA SULLIVAN Designer ALEX TATUSIAN Junior Designer ROSIE NABEREZNY Photo Director ALEX POLLACK Deputy Photo Editor ELIZABETH JAIME Associate Photo Editor EMILY EISEN Video Producer VINCENT CROSS Staff Photographer ALEX LAU Photo Assistant LAURA MURRAY Contributing Food Stylist SUE LI

Recipe Editor LIESEL DAVIS Senior Food Editors ANDY BARAGHANI, RICK MARTINEZ, CHRIS MOROCCO Senior Associate Food Editor CLAIRE SAFFITZ Test Kitchen Manager BRAD LEONE GROCERY Contributing Assistant Food Editor AMELIA RAMPE

“I GO TO THE STO RE , OP E N THE FREEZER DOORS, AND GA ZE AT ALL THE I CE CREAM FLAVORS U NTI L I GET SLE E PY AND THE MA NAGE R SAYS, ‘ MA’A M, YOU CAN’T D O THAT HE RE .’ ”

Production Director CRISTINA MARTINEZ Assistant Production Manager ALEX DELANY Contributing Tablet Associate, Design & Production BEN VINA Associate Managing Editor FAYE CHIU MOSLEY Copy Chief GREG ROBERTSON Research Director CHRISTINE PENBERTHY Special Projects Associate LILLI SHERMAN Assistant to the Editor in Chief EMMA WARTZMAN

Editor, Bonappetit.com CAREY POLIS Senior Editor, Web ALEX BEGGS Social Media Manager ROCHELLE BILOW Associate Web Editors CHRISTINA CHAEY, ELYSSA GOLDBERG Digital Recipe Editor JILL BAUGHMAN Head of Product ERIC GILLIN Product Manager BRENDAN BRYANT Engineering Manager MARK LINDERMAN Senior Software Engineer DANYLO BERKO Software Engineers JUAN MIGUEL JAVIER, CHRISTOPHER LEBRON, ALAN SIEGLER Associate Analytics Director BILAL SHAIKH Audience Development Manager JAMES CRENSHAW Contributors BROOKS HEADLEY, REBECCA JURKEVICH, YOTAM OTTOLENGHI, MICKEY RAPKIN, JENNY ROSENSTRACH, MARISSA A. ROSS, BEN SCHOTT, ANDY WARD; MARIELLE OLENTINE (VIDEO); REGINA BRESLER, BRYNA JEAN-MARIE (RESEARCH); MALLORY SCHULTZ (WEB); BRIAN CARROLL, MARISA RYAN, ROB STAEGER (COPY) Executive Director, Public Relations FREDERIKA BROOKFIELD Associate Director, Public Relations NATE ERICKSON

Publisher, Chief Revenue Officer

PAMELA DRUCKER MANN Associate Publisher, Head of Marketing ERIC JOHNSON Head of Revenue CRAIG KOSTELIC National Directors, Advertising & Brand Partnerships JULIA HAWKINS, JORDANA PRANSKY Executive Director, Insights & Strategy COURTNEY WARCO VERDIER Executive Director, Marketing & Creative Strategy BREE MCKENNEY ADVERTISING NEW YORK Executive Director, Finance & New England MELISSA GOOLNICK Executive Director STEFANIE BERGER Account Director, Beauty & Luxury JEANNIE LIVESAY Account Directors DEBORAH KNUDSEN, KIMBERLY MICHAUD Director, Digital Operations MARY BETH DWYER Digital Account Managers ISABEL KIERENCEW, ERICA STEINBERG Associate Business Managers JACQUI SNYDER, STEPHANIE SONG Executive Assistant to the Publisher DANI ROSEN Advertising Coordinator EMILY EFRAIMOV

“ROSÉ ON ICE— AL L DAY, E V E RY DAY. (OK AY, ON THE WEEKENDS, AT LEAST.)”

Sales Assistants NATALIA KUDRYK, CATHRYN MAHONEY, KATHLEEN MALONEY, DEVON MCCALLUM, TAYLOR MCKENNA, MARIAM RASTEGAR, NATASHA TREE INTEGRATED MARKETING & INSIGHTS Senior Integrated Marketing Director RACHEL BOYSCHAU Integrated Marketing Directors DINA BIBLARZ, HAYLEY RUSSMAN Insights Director HILLARY SMITH Senior Managers, Integrated Marketing CHRISTIN DEMARIA, ALEX HOPSON, TARA MELVIN Integrated Marketing Managers NINA BOLKA, ADAM BROCK Associate Manager, Integrated Marketing NATALIE MERIN Associate Manager, Insights KELLY QUACKENBUSH Marketing Coordinators ANDREA PARDO, CATHERINE TOUHILL CREATIVE SERVICES Creative Director SARAH SALVATORIELLO Art Director PHUONG NGUYEN Senior Designer CORINNE VIANA Designer STEPHANIE STANLEY Senior Producer JULIE SULLIVAN Producer KRISTIE YEUNG Associate Video Producer ANDREW KEEGAN Copywriter SARAH MCLELLAN Special Events Director NIKKI REISS Senior Special Events Coordinator JENNIFER CASSEL Marketing Coordinator HANNAH MICLEY

“WAIT FOR IT… MOJITO ICE POPS.”

THE BON APPÉTIT CULINARY STUDIO Executive Chef MARY NOLAN BRANCH OFFICES Detroit ANNE GREEN, DIRECTOR Los Angeles MELISSA LEE, DIRECTOR Midwest JENNA ERNSTER, DIRECTOR Midwest PAMELA QUANDT, DIRECTOR Northwest KATHRYN SOTER, DIRECTOR Southeast PETER ZUCKERMAN, Z-MEDIA, INC. Southwest LEWIS STAFFORD COMPANY Hawaii LOREN MALENCHEK, MALENCHEK & ASSOCIATES Mexico ALCHEMIA

Artistic Director

ANNA WINTOUR PUBLISHED BY CONDÉ NAST Chairman Emeritus S.I. NEWHOUSE, JR. Chairman CHARLES H. TOWNSEND President & Chief Executive Officer ROBERT A. SAUERBERG,

JR.

Chief Financial Officer DAVID E. GEITHNER Chief Marketing Officer & President–Condé Nast Media Group EDWARD J. MENICHESCHI Chief Administrative Officer JILL BRIGHT EVP–Chief Digital Officer FRED SANTARPIA EVP–Consumer Marketing MONICA RAY EVP–Human Resources JOANN MURRAY EVP–Corporate Communications CAMERON BLANCHARD SVP–Business Operations DAVID ORLIN SVP–Corporate Controller DAVID B. CHEMIDLIN SVP–Managing Director–23 Stories JOSH STINCHCOMB SVP–Network Sales & Partnerships, CN & Chief Revenue Officer, CNÉ LISA VALENTINO SVP–Financial Planning & Analysis SUZANNE REINHARDT SVP–Strategy–23 Stories PADRAIG CONNOLLY SVP–Ad Tech DAVID ADAMS Senior Vice President, Licensing CATHY HOFFMAN GLOSSER Senior Vice President, Research & Analytics STEPHANIE FRIED Senior Vice President, Digital Operations LARRY BAACH CONDÉ NAST ENTERTAINMENT President DAWN OSTROFF EVP/General Manager–Digital Video JOY MARCUS, EVP–Chief Operating Officer SAHAR ELHABASHI EVP–Motion Pictures JEREMY STECKLER, EVP–Programming & Content Strategy–Digital Channels MICHAEL KLEIN EVP–Alternative TV JOE LABRACIO, Executive Vice President, CNÉ Studios AL EDGINGTON SVP–Marketing & Partner Management TEAL NEWLAND CONDÉ NAST INTERNATIONAL Chairman & Chief Executive JONATHAN NEWHOUSE President NICHOLAS COLERIDGE Condé Nast is a global media company producing premium content for more than 263 million consumers in 30 markets.

6 • AU G U ST 2 0 1 6

WWW.CONDENAST.COM WWW.CONDENASTINTERNATIONAL.COM

Those submitting manuscripts, photographs, artwork, or other materials to Bon Appétit for consideration should not send originals unless specifically requested to do so by Bon Appétit in writing. Unsolicited manuscripts, photographs, and other submitted materials must be accompanied by a self-addressed return envelope, postage prepaid. However, Bon Appétit is not responsible for unsolicited submissions. Subscription inquiries: Please write to Bon Appétit, P.O. Box 37613, Boone, IA 50037; call 800-765-9419 (515-2433273 from outside the U.S.A.); send e-mail to subscriptions@bonappetit .com; or visit our website, bonappetit.com.

editor’s letter No, this is not Rehoboth (it’s Lake Mead, NV), but you get the picture.

I don’t know what my parents were thinking. The morning after I graduated high school, I hopped in a red Chevy Nova with my friends Dave Groberg and Scott Greenberger, and we set a course (if not a GPS) for Rehoboth Beach, Delaware. The occasion? Beach Week, 1987. A dozen of us seniors, a mix of guys and girls, from Washington, D.C.’s Woodrow Wilson High School had all chipped in for a beach house. We clambered into the available bedrooms, while an unlucky few grabbed sofas that would double as beds. We stocked the fridge with not much more than Gatorade and a couple of cartons of milk. And then we flung open the screen porch door and walked a couple of blocks to the beach, lugging a cooler, an umbrella, and a bunch of fold-up aluminum chairs. Rehoboth, back then, was like a lot of Mid-Atlantic beach towns. A crowded stretch of sand, flanked on one side by pounding waves and on the other by a rambling boardwalk, with its carnival rides, bumper cars, french fry stands, and no shortage of tattered Bon Jovi tees and acid-wash shorts. Most of us had grown up going to Rehoboth; our parents would rent the same kind of modest houses we were now crowding into. As kids, we’d spend all day in the sun without a dab of sunscreen (did it even exist in the ’70s?), returning to the house caked in sand and sunburned, Mom slathering on the Solarcaine. We all got to know Rehoboth’s foods well—the Nic-O-Boli (basically a giant calzone) from Nicola Pizza, the buckets of vinegar-doused fresh-cut fries from Thrasher’s, and funnel cakes, taunting us with the scent of fried dough and powdered sugar. 8 • AU G U ST 2 0 1 6

As high school grads, I’d like to say that we stepped it up— that we sourced the best local blue crabs, laid a picnic table with newspaper, and unleashed a tin of Old Bay into a simmering stockpot. But who am I kidding? Unlike the “grown-ups” on page 56, cooking and cocktailing at a lake house in Maine, we were just thrilled to be on our own, to be calling the shots for the first time in our lives, without an adult in sight. I remember enjoying, perhaps, a Milwaukee’s Best or two that week, but there was no driving, and no drama between the other teens from area schools. The whole thing was oddly innocent, almost giddy. A bunch of kids who, even then, couldn’t quite believe how good we had it. I guess you could say that Beach Week was a reward from our parents for making it through high school. But looking back, I realize now it was more of a test run. In a few short months we would all say good-bye to our parents—no longer kids but college freshmen. We’d be out the door to a place where there would be no chaperones, no one to cook us dinner, no one waiting up for us at night. The fact is, by Beach Week ’87, we weren’t kids anymore. And while I don’t think we realized that back then, our parents already did. They knew exactly what they were thinking.

ADAM RAPOPORT EDITOR IN CHIEF

PHOTOGRAPH: HG/MAGNUM PHOTOS

S U M M E R O F ’8 7

r. s.v.p. Want us to get a restaurant recipe for you? E-mail us at rsvp@bonappetit.com*

DEAR BON APPÉTIT, MY MOTHER, SISTER, AND I VISITED BABBO DURING OUR ANNUAL NEW YORK CITY TRIP. TWO WORDS: POLENTA. BUDINO. I NEED THIS RECIPE. IT TOOK SAVORY-SWEET TO A WHOLE NEW LEVEL. —CARRIE CURTIS, Minneapolis

POLENTA BUDINO WITH PLUM MARMELLATA 8 SERVINGS Budino is what Italians ask for when they want pudding. Sub in any stone fruit for the plums. POLENTA

½ ⅓ ¼ ¼ 1 1 ¼

cup coarse-grind polenta cup granulated sugar cup (packed) dark brown sugar tsp. kosher salt Tbsp. unsalted butter large egg yolk cup heavy cream MARMELLATA AND ASSEMBLY

¾ 1 ¼ 4 1

cup granulated sugar Tbsp. fresh lemon juice tsp. kosher salt ripe plums, cut into ½" pieces pint vanilla ice cream

Ask the Test Kitchen: Easy as Pie Q. “With all the summer fruit at its peak, I’ve got pie on my mind. Some recipes call for flour as a thickener while others recommend cornstarch. What is the difference? What do you recommend?” —KAREN DAKICH, Livingston, NJ 1 0 • AU G U ST 2 0 1 6

POLENTA Bring 2 cups water to a boil in

a medium saucepan. Whisking constantly, gradually add polenta; whisk until smooth. Reduce heat to low and cook polenta, whisking and breaking up any lumps, until thickened, about 3 minutes. Whisk in granulated sugar, brown sugar, and salt (mixture will loosen) and cook, whisking often, until mixture thickens again and polenta is tender, 20–25 minutes. Remove from heat and whisk in butter. Whisk egg yolk and cream in a small bowl to combine, then vigorously whisk into polenta. Transfer mixture to a large bowl and cover with plastic wrap, pressing directly onto surface. Let cool. DO AHEAD: Polenta can be made 2 days ahead. Chill. Bring to room temperature before serving.

MARMELLATA AND ASSEMBLY Bring sugar, lemon juice, salt, and half of plums to a simmer in a medium saucepan over medium heat and cook, stirring occasionally, until mixture is thickened and some of the fruit is starting to fall apart, 10–15 minutes. Mix half of the remaining plums into marmellata and cook, stirring occasionally, until softened but still holding their shape, 5 minutes. Remove from heat and mix in remaining plums. Cover marmellata and let cool. Stir polenta to loosen and smooth out any lumps. Spoon into bowls and top each serving with some marmellata and a scoop of vanilla ice cream. DO AHEAD: Marmellata can be made 3 days ahead. Chill.

A. “All-purpose flour and cornstarch can both be used to thicken pies, and you can certainly use one if you don’t have the other. But for fruit pies, I prefer cornstarch. Flour makes the fruit filling cloudy whereas cornstarch goes translucent and glossy (much better for cherry or blueberry pie, for instance). Plus, flour has a tendency to turn gummy. If you can, go with cornstarch.” —CLAIRE SAFFITZ, senior associate food editor

* S U B M I SS I O N S B EC O M E T H E P RO P E RT Y O F B O N A P P É T I T .

r. s.v.p. THE CHEF SAYS:

“The tart brightness of the preserved lemon is vital for counteracting the harissa’s spice and bringing out the sauce’s vibrant flavor.” —JARED WENTWORTH, chef, Moneygun

DEAR BON APPÉTIT, THE COCKTAILS AT MY NEW GO-TO BAR, MONEYGUN IN CHICAGO, ARE ON POINT, BUT IT’S THE HARISSA SWORDFISH I’M STILL THINKING ABOUT. I’D LOVE TO MAKE IT AT HOME, WHERE I WON’T BE TEMPTED TO WASH IT DOWN WITH THREE OLD-FASHIONEDS.

HARISSA-CRUSTED SWORDFISH 4 SERVINGS This homemade take on harissa is bold enough to use on pork chops or chicken thighs, too. You can also toss it with broccoli or carrots before roasting. 2 2 2 ½ 2 1 2

4 2

red chiles (such as Fresno) Tbsp. coriander seeds Tbsp. cumin seeds preserved lemon, flesh removed garlic cloves cup olive oil Tbsp. tomato paste Kosher salt, freshly ground pepper 8-oz. swordfish fillets (about 1" thick) Tbsp. vegetable oil

Heat broiler. Broil chiles on a foil-lined baking sheet, turning occasionally, until blackened all over, 6–8 minutes.

Transfer to a bowl, cover with plastic wrap, and let sit 15 minutes. Peel and set aside. Toast coriander and cumin seeds in a dry small skillet over medium heat, tossing until fragrant, about 2 minutes. Transfer spices to a blender and let cool. Add preserved lemon peel, garlic, olive oil, tomato paste, and reserved chiles and blend until smooth. Transfer harissa to a small bowl; season with salt and pepper. Set ¼ cup harissa aside for serving. Season swordfish with salt and pepper and place in a large baking dish. Coat with remaining harissa; cover and chill at least 1 hour and up to 1 day. Heat vegetable oil in a large nonstick skillet over medium. Working in batches if needed, cook swordfish until cooked through (fish will feel firm when pressed), about 3 minutes per side. Transfer to a platter and serve with reserved harissa.

ILLUSTRATIONS: LARRY JOST (BUDINO, SWORDFISH); CLAIRE MCCRACKEN (PORTRAIT, LEMON). FOR RESTAURANT DETAILS, SEE SOURCEBOOK.

—JEREMY HERSH, Chicago

T H E H E AT I S O N

Beets? Check. Carrots? You bet. Turn the page to learn what else you can kimchi (hint: almost anything).

Will It Kimchi? Chefs are making our favorite Korean pickle out of way more than cabbage by AMIEL STANEK

P H OTO G R A P H S B Y T E D C AVA N AU G H

Cook Like a Pro ro

Toss 2 lb. crunchy vegetables of choice, cut into ¾" pieces, 3 Tbsp. kosher salt, and 1 Tbsp. sugar in a large bowl. Let sit at room temperature 1–3 hours for juices to release. Add 10 scallions, cut on a diagonal into 1" pieces, ⅓ cup gochugaru (coarse Korean red pepper powder) or 4 ½ tsp. crushed red pepper flakes, finely ground, 3 Tbsp. finely chopped garlic, 2 Tbsp. fish sauce, and 1 Tbsp. finely chopped peeled ginger; toss to coat. Divide kimchi between two 1-qt. jars, distributing liquid evenly and leaving 1" headspace.

Use your alt kimchi in rice bowls or chop it up and spoon over steak.

THE PRO SOHUI KIM

Insa / Brooklyn

BY N OW YO U’ R E AC Q UA I N T E D

(obsessed, maybe?) with kimchi, the fiery and funky Korean napa cabbage pickle. But as chef Sohui Kim of Korean barbecue restaurant Insa in Brooklyn explains, the word kimchi refers to much more than the variety most Americans are familiar with: “It’s just a loose term Koreans use to mean ‘pickle something.’ ” Indeed, we’re seeing alt Korean-inspired pickles on many menus, whether it’s the beet greens rendition at Gold Cash Gold in Detroit or the “brussels + apricot chi” at AL’s Place in San Francisco. Kim has dozens of kimchis up her sleeve, most of which are quick-fermented variations she makes with whatever looks best at the farmers’ market. Whether she’s working with kohlrabi or carrots, radishes or rutabagas, she’ll slice them, salt them, and toss them with spicy gochugaru, fish sauce, and some aromatics to produce bright, approachable, probiotic pickles that taste way more of peak-season produce than big-time funk. “It’s more like veg dressed with vinaigrette,” she says. So when the clock’s ticking on whatever August veggie is kicking around in your fridge, now you know what to do: Just kimchi it. Choose smaller cucumbers—the higher ratio of skin to flesh keeps each bite crunchy. 1 6 • AU G U ST 20 1 6

Eat immediately or let sit on countertop 2 days to allow fermentation to begin before refrigerating. Flavors will deepen over time. DO AHEAD: Kimchi can be made 2 months ahead. Cover and chill. Open occasionally to release gases. Makes 2–4 quarts

6 VEGGIES T H AT’L L M A K E G R E AT KIMCHI

Radishes Asparagus Carrots Cucumbers Beets Turnips

FOOD STYLING BY ALI NARDI. PROP STYLING BY MARTIN BOURNE. ILLUSTRATION BY JOE WILSON. FOR RESTAURANT DETAILS, SEE SOURCEBOOK.

Vegetable Kimchi

Take me through a typical morning during training. “I’ll wake up at 4:15, heat up steel-cut oats, make coffee with my French press, and go to practice. I’ll swim for two hours. I have a smoothie right after practice for recovery—it’s almond milk, cherries, almond butter, chia seeds, and banana. “When I come home, I’ll usually make some eggs—the eggs are from my chickens. At least two eggs with some whole wheat toast and avocado. This is like 8 a.m. I’m already having my second meal, my third if you count the smoothie.”

What about on race day? “Once I get into competition mode, I lose all taste for food. I sit there pouting, pushing food around, wishing I could blend it together in my Vitamix and drink it. I just need the calories.”

it’s sort of the perfect breakfast: some carbs, a little protein. I’ll get some fruit, like pineapple. Cafeteria melons are gross!”

Is Olympic cafeteria culture anything like high school? “You definitely have your cliques. The cafeteria is the best Olympics people-watching experience because it’s open 24-7 and everyone goes. You see people who have just won gold, they’re excited, and everyone’s excited for them. And word gets around about the food: ‘Stay away from this, but you have to try that.’ ”

What do you drink before a race? “Coffee, actually. It’s definitely a race aid. I’ll keep my thermos at my side while I’m warming up, partly for the caffeine and partly for the comfort. You just don’t want too much. That jittery feeling is

What will a standard breakfast in Rio consist of? “I’ll usually get rice, some eggs— either fried or scrambled—and a little bit of soy sauce. When I was growing up, that’s what my mom would make me before meets, so it’s comforting, and

The Olympics begin August 5. Keep up with Coughlin at teamusa.org

the worst, and the nerves are already there. I often travel with a French press because you never know how good the cafeteria coffee will be.”

There’s a rumor you were involved in some coffee smuggling in Athens.

Be honest: Do you ever eat in the pool? “Oh yeah! I’ll have almonds on standby. Bananas, apples, things I can eat quickly.”

So that whole “wait an hour” thing is bogus? “Definitely.” —INTERVIEW BY DAVID WALTERS

“I was! My parents met me at the security gate and passed over some Peet’s. It’s a Bay Area brand—so good.”

Any local specialties you’re looking forward to in Rio? “A

THE VITALS

traditional Brazilian churrascaria is always fun. And when I’m done competing, a Caipirinha.”

Age 33 Hometown Vallejo, CA

It’s actually pronounced COG-lin

Gold medals won Three

Named her chickens after True Blood characters

And… Saved by the Bell characters

Is a selfdescribed Pasta snob

9 QUE STIONS FOR

Natalie Coughlin The Olympic swimmer talks training—and coffee smuggling

PHOTOGRAPH BY RAMONA ROSALES

PROP STYLING BY NICHOLAS FAIELLA. HAIR AND MAKEUP BY NICOLE BLANCO. WARDROBE STYLING BY HEIDI MEEK.

The BA Q&A

The Buy Juice Press

Grab and Graze

Acidity is key to a good dressing; this extra-pointy reamer helps extract all the juice from lemons. Citrus reamer, $16; the-commons.us

Carved from African olive wood, these grabbers are like using your hands— without the mess. Fair Trade servers, $15; shopnectar.com

Nonstop Service Use these mattebrass spoons to dole out pastas and roasted veggies, too. Ferm Living salad servers, $65; 2modern.com

Pinch Hitter With this angled stoneware salt cellar, there’s no excuse for forgetting to season your greens. Salt cellar, $30; sawyerceramics.com

Level Out The top of this weighted brushedgold oil dispenser ensures a steady drizzle (without the risk of losing its cap). Recycled glass oil dispenser, $30; shopterrain.com

Salad Days The greens (and beans! and radishes!) are looking good this season. Give them beautiful bowls and other wares to dress them up nice

Fill ’er up! We’ve got some peak-season salad recipes just waiting for you (and this pretty bowl) on pages 42, 68, and 89.

Dig Deep The striking blue enamel pattern on this aluminum bowl reveals itself as guests dig in. Stelton Stockholm Aquatic bowl, $320; huset-shop.com

Bowled Over Perfectly sized for a salad for two; the stunning edge comes from being hand-turned on a lathe. Rob Thornber bowl, $85; orcasartworks.com

Bonus: It looks great on display when you’re not using it for salad.

PHOTOGRAPHS BY ALEX LAU

MARKET EDITOR: MONICA KHEMSUROV

by JOSIE ADAMS

RELAX! IT’S AUGUST It’s the laziest month of the year, when we swap boardrooms for boardwalks, spreadsheets for beach towels, and PDFs for SPF. BEN SCHOTT presents a day-to-day guide to getting August right

M O N DAY

T U E S DAY

W E D N E S DAY

It’s gonna be a busy August: NATIONAL SANDWICH MONTH NATIONAL CATFISH MONTH NATIONAL GOAT CHEESE MONTH

Coming soon… NATIONAL GOUT MONTH

8 15

The ideal day to make stuffed tomatoes Provençal from Julia & Jacques: Cooking at Home.

Coincidentally, it’s a month until International Talk Like a Pirate Day.

JULIA CHILD’S BIRTHDAY

21 It’s a Sunday in mid-August. Should you really be checking your work e-mail? Have a spumoni!

Warning! You have only a few days before day drinking once again becomes unacceptable. WORLD WATER WEEK BEGINS

24 • AU G U ST 2 0 1 6

F R I DAY

“Working from home” today? Remember— don’t Instagram your idyllic beach picnic.

If you’re jetting off for a romantic weekend in Paris, don’t forget: Everyone there is on holiday and the City of Light will be relentlessly dark.

Aah! delicious heirloom tomatoes: salads, salsa, sauces, and, of course, gazpacho… you can never have too many tomatoes!

Make ice cream sandwiches out of mini waffles: Wrap in waxed paper and freeze. NATIONAL S’MORES DAY

NATIONAL RUM DAY

Why can’t the kids at the softserve joint ever count change?

Heading off for the weekend? Pack a headlamp for nighttime grilling. As darkness falls, medium-rare becomes welldone in an instant.

Now’s a good time to accept that you didn’t read Proust this summer. Again.

The ferry for Nantucket leaves Hyannis at noon. Make sure to pack a picnic lunch and, just as important, your pastels.

How would MacGyver hull a mess of strawberries? With a straw. Incidentally, for a change from the standard garnish of cream, try serving strawberries with a dash of lemon juice or a grind of fresh pepper.

S AT U R DAY

11- 12

Remember, ice buckets stay cooler for longer if you add a handful of salt.

NATIONAL SPUMONI DAY

Put a corkscrew in every tote— your beach bag, your cooler, your purse. Why risk it?

Freeze cold brew and let it melt en route to the beach. As if by magic: coffee slushies!

Don’t forget the two things rental houses never have: sharp knives and Tupperware.

T H U R S DAY

If. I. See. One. More. Tomato.

31 The town of Buñol in Valencia, Spain, celebrates La Tomatina, an annual food fight at which 20,000 people spend an hour hurling 100 tons of overripe tomatoes at each other. It’s a fitting end to a very tomatoey month.

Don’t skimp on the SPF—the only bright pink meat you ought to see today should be the steak. NATIONAL FILET MIGNON DAY

19 - 20 Chop ripe tomatoes, toss in a bowl with red wine vinegar, salt, crushed red pepper flakes, basil, garlic, and olive oil, then leave to stew in the sun all day. Fold in some cooked pasta and you have a tasty solar-powered dinner.

You may be sick of tomatoes now but come November? Can ’em.

When cooling bottles in the freezer, set an alarm to avoid the inevitable “What was that cracking sound? ”

ILLUSTRATIONS BY ANJE JAGER

S U N DAY

The Drink 1 3

Nitrogencharged nitro coffee—served at New Orleans’ Stumptown in a custom glass—comes straight from the tap, like a creamy Guinness.

One Nation Under Cold Brew How did iced coffee get so hot? by LIZ CLAYTON

O N C E U P O N A SU M M E R,

there was only one drink called iced coffee. Nine times out of ten, it was leftover coffee shoved in the fridge and later served cold. Now coffee shops have devised countless versions of the cold stuff, from singleorigin to frothy nitro to balanced Japanese-style. We’re mainlining a vanilla-infused version in the morning, then fighting the 3 p.m. lull with a carbonated cold-brew fizz. And we’re stocking up at grocery stores, choosing from a mind-boggling array of canned, cartoned, and bottled cold brews of every strength and sweetness. It’s official: The Iced Age is upon us.

26 • AU G U ST 2 0 1 6

PHOTOGRAPH BY RUSH JAGOE

The Drink G R E AT MOMENTS IN ICED COFFEE HISTORY

That same barista selling cold brew at her shop is probably making Japanese-style at home.

1969 Ueshima Coffee Company in Japan introduces the first canned coffee with milk.

1990s As specialty coffee shops take off, iced coffee appears on more menus, usually made with hot-brewed or leftover chilled coffee served over ice.

1993 Dunkin’ Donuts starts selling iced coffee nationally. Wicked smart.

THE TECHNIQUE

The Next Cold Brew It’s not unusual to hear someone insist on cold brew (the cultish method in which grounds are steeped in cold water, never touching heat), as though it’s the only iced coffee worth drinking. But there’s another method that deserves the spotlight. It’s called Japanesemethod iced coffee (or ice- or flash-brewed), and though it’s been on West Coast menus for years, cafés nationwide, like Philly’s Rival Bros., are now on board too. The process involves brewing concentrated hot coffee directly onto ice. The heat unlocks the aromatic flavors of coffee that cold brew can’t, but the quick chill stops it from losing all that good stuff through oxidization and evaporation. Skip the milk and sugar—it’s practically juice. —ALEX TATUSIAN

If you want to get really serious, light, fruity beans are best for this method.

THE WIDE, WIDE WORLD OF GRABAND-GO

28 • AU G U ST 2 0 1 6

1995 Chicago’s Intelligentsia opens with cold brew on the menu, becoming one of the first specialty shops to serve it.

Brew by the Numbers

339% Increase in U.S. cold-brew sales between 2010 and 2015

116 Millions of gallons of grab-and-go cold coffee drinks consumed by Americans in 2015

10,000

Number of cans of La Colombe’s creamy cold Draft Latte sold online in the first hour of its 2016 launch

Number of drips per minute (DPM) that fall during the 12-hour brewing process of a Blue Bottle Oji dripper

20%

Increase in total Starbucks iced coffee sales since the company added cold brew last summer

Number of minutes the new BKON Cold Brew Project brewer takes to make 5 gallons of vacuumengineered cold brew

PHOTOGRAPHS: TED CAVANAUGH (CHEMEX); ALEX LAU (GRAB-AND-GO). FOOD STYLING BY ALI NARDI. PROP STYLING BY MARTIN BOURNE.

2 3

The counter at Stumptown’s new NOLA location.

The Drink 3 3

2006 Coca-Cola introduces Coca-Cola Blāk, a Coke-andcoffee “fusion” soda that flops in two years.

2008 Seattle’s Best Coffee rolls out cold brew, introducing the term to a national audience.

2010

Espresso, tonic, and lime at Brooklyn’s Sweatshop.

The Future Looks Fizzy Still or sparkling? No, we’re not talking about water. Coffee shops are putting an extra spring in your step with their long lineups of new bubbly drinks. San Francisco’s Saint Frank Coffee serves tonic-water-fueled espresso tonics (not unlike the one above). Blue Bottle pours cascara fizzes, a drink made from the discarded husk

of the coffee bean. Steadfast Coffee in Nashville makes its own carbonated coffee soda, a sweetened option that gets carbonated, kegged, and served with an orange peel. And surely you’ve noticed that nitro cold brew is having a moment—those effervescent drafts that are as smooth as velvet (the tiny bubbles mellow any harshness) have now made their way to select Starbucks.

The number of cold drinks we made in the ’80s was zero. If someone asked for iced coffee, it was like asking for mayonnaise on your pizza. This is something people have been waiting for.” —Todd Carmichael, founder, La Colombe

2011 Stumptown overtakes its entire Brooklyn roastery with production of “stubby” cold-brew bottles—setting the stage for an explosion of grab-and-go iced coffee.

THE PLACE

Iced Coffee Has Its Mecca (and It’s in New Orleans) Iced coffee is nothing new for Stumptown, but in April the company went all in, opening its first coldbrew-focused café in New Orleans, complete with not one, not two, but six cold coffee drinks on the menu. —EMMA WARTZMAN

1 Original cold brew Full-bodied coffee brewed without heat

2 Nitro cold brew Right out of the custom tap

3 Small-batch cold brew Brewed from regional beans, on rotation

4 Cold shot 2012 Austin roaster Cuvée Coffee introduces a nitrogenated keg-style coffee served from a tap. A canned version follows.

A creamy 2-oz. nitro shot of its Hair Bender blend

5 Duane Sorenson Named for the company’s founder, it’s a cold-brew Arnold Palmer, made with a shot of nitro Hair Bender, citrus syrup, and soda water

6 Endless Summer 2016 Could we have hit Peak Iced Coffee? (Probably not…)

A take on a mint julep, also with a shot of nitro Hair Bender, plus mint simple syrup and soda water

PHOTOGRAPHS: ALEX LAU (SWEATSHOP, GRAB-AND-GO); RUSH JAGOE (STUMPTOWN)

Bay Area company Blue Bottle gains attention for its Japanese-made Oji cold-brew drippers, which brew intense concentrates (and look cool).

BA > R EC I P E S, T I P S, A N D M E N U I D E AS FROM OUR EXPERTS

For two more riffs on watermelon salad, go to bonappetit.com /melon

HI, SUMMER

fast, easy, fresh

BY A N DY B A R AG H A N I

There’s no law that says watermelon salads must incorporate feta. This renegade combination, Watermelon with Yogurt and Fried Rosemary, is at once sweet, tart, and savory—the kind of dish that’s as comfortable at the breakfast table as it is at a potluck. Heat 2 Tbsp. olive oil in a small skillet over medium. Fry one 6" rosemary sprig until crisp, about 20 seconds. Transfer to a paper towel to drain; set rosemary oil aside. Mix ½ cup plain whole-milk Greek yogurt and 1 Tbsp. honey in a small bowl; season with kosher salt. Toss one 3-lb. seedless watermelon, rind removed, cut into 2" pieces, and 3 Tbsp. fresh grapefruit juice in a large bowl; season with flaky sea salt. Spread yogurt onto a platter. Top with watermelon and crumble fried rosemary over. Drizzle with 1 Tbsp. reserved rosemary oil (save remaining oil for another use); sprinkle with 1 tsp. crushed red pepper flakes and 1 tsp. poppy seeds. 4 servings

PHOTOGRAPHS BY ALEX LAU

AU G U ST 2 0 1 6 • 3 3

FA S T, E A S Y, FRESH

H OW TO… ST R E TC H PIZZA DOUGH

World Pizza Our homage to lahmacun, the Middle Eastern flatbread

Spicy Lamb Pizza with Parsley–Red Onion Salad ACTIVE 35 MIN - TOTAL 35 MIN 4 SERVINGS 2 ¼ ¾ ¾ ¾ ¾ 12 8 2 ½ 1 1

garlic cloves, finely grated cup tomato paste tsp. ground cinnamon tsp. ground cumin tsp. smoked paprika tsp. kosher salt, plus more oz. ground lamb All-purpose flour (for dusting) oz. prepared pizza dough, cut in half, room temperature Tbsp. olive oil, divided, plus more for drizzling small red onion, thinly sliced cup parsley leaves with tender stems Tbsp. fresh lemon juice Crushed red pepper flakes (for serving)

Place a baking sheet on a rack in lower third of oven; preheat to 500°. Mix garlic, tomato paste, cinnamon, cumin, paprika, and ¾ tsp. salt in a large bowl. Mix in lamb. Working with 1 piece of dough and keeping remaining piece covered, gently stretch dough into a 10x8" oval and transfer to a lightly floured parchmentlined baking sheet. (If dough springs back, cover and let rest 10 minutes, then stretch again, resting as needed.) Crumble half of the lamb mixture over dough and brush edges with 1 Tbsp. oil. Slide onto preheated baking sheet and bake until crust is golden brown, 6–8 minutes. Transfer pizza to a wire rack. Repeat with remaining dough, lamb mixture, and 1 Tbsp. oil. Drizzle pizzas with more oil. Toss onion, parsley, and lemon juice in a bowl; season with salt. Scatter over pizzas; sprinkle with red pepper flakes. 34 • AU G U ST 2 0 1 6

1 Gently pat roomtemp dough into a flat disk. Lay the dough over the back of your knuckles— this will give you more control.

2 Working outward from the center, stretch the dough over your knuckles, gradually moving your closed fists farther apart.

3 If the dough feels as if it might rip, stop. Cover it with a kitchen towel, and let it relax for ten minutes; now resume stretching.

FA S T, E A S Y, FRESH

Within this formula, any thing goes: Change up the stone fruit, or try Greek yogurt in lieu of cream.

Parfait, Parfait A habit-forming graham cracker crumble takes peaches and cream to another dimension

Peach Parfait with Salted Graham Cracker Crumble ACTIVE 35 MIN - TOTAL 35 MIN 4 SERVINGS 5 ⅓ 1 ¼ 6 2 2 1 1 1

graham crackers, finely crushed cup all-purpose flour tsp. kosher salt cup plus 1 tsp. granulated sugar Tbsp. unsalted butter, melted, plus 2 Tbsp. room temperature ripe peaches, cut into ⅓" wedges Tbsp. light brown sugar Tbsp. plus 1 tsp. fresh lemon juice cup fresh raspberries cup heavy cream

3 6 • AU G U ST 20 1 6

Preheat oven to 325°. Pulse graham cracker crumbs, flour, salt, and ¼ cup granulated sugar in a food processor until finely ground. Transfer to a medium bowl and add melted butter; mix until a few large clumps form. Spread out crumble on a rimmed baking sheet and bake, shaking once, until golden, 12–15 minutes. Let cool. Meanwhile, toss peaches, brown sugar, and 1 Tbsp. lemon juice in a medium bowl. Heat remaining 2 Tbsp. butter in a large skillet over medium; cook peaches, tossing often, until sugar is dissolved and peaches are soft, about 5 minutes. Let cool slightly. Mash raspberries with a spoon in a small bowl, then mix in remaining 1 tsp. granulated sugar and remaining 1 tsp. lemon juice. Let sit 5 minutes for raspberries to soften. Beat cream in a medium bowl to medium-soft peaks. Divide warm peaches among bowls and top with whipped cream, raspberries, and graham cracker crumble.

FA S T, E A S Y, FRESH

One Dish to Dinner Mussels steam in the same saucepan as chili-and-fennelspiced tomato sauce in this effortless summer supper

Mussels with Spicy Tomato Oil and Grilled Bread ACTIVE 40 MIN - TOTAL 40 MIN 4 SERVINGS

FOOD STYLING BY SUE LI. PROP STYLING BY ELIZABETH JAIME. ILLUSTRATIONS BY JOE WILSON.

⅓ cup olive oil 3 garlic cloves, thinly sliced 1 lb. tomatoes, cored, seeded, coarsely chopped 2 Tbsp. chili oil ½ tsp. fennel seeds, lightly crushed Kosher salt 3 lb. mussels, scrubbed, debearded 2 Tbsp. unsalted butter 3 Tbsp. finely chopped chives 4 slices country-style bread, grilled

If mussels aren’t your thing, clams would be equally delicious.

D O N ’ T S W E AT… BRUISED T O M AT O E S There’s a time and a place for the pristine tomatoes that get prime

Heat oil in a large saucepan over medium. Cook garlic, stirring occasionally, until golden and crisp, about 3 minutes. Using a slotted spoon, transfer garlic to a small bowl. Increase heat to medium-high and add tomatoes to oil. Cook, pressing down on tomatoes using a wooden spoon until they are very soft and broken down, 8–10 minutes; pluck out peels. Stir in chili oil and fennel seeds; season with salt. Add mussels, cover, and cook, shaking pan occasionally, until mussels open, 5–8 minutes (discard any mussels that don’t open). Using a slotted spoon, transfer mussels to shallow bowls. Add butter to tomato oil and stir until melted and incorporated. Taste and adjust seasoning. Ladle oil over mussels and top with chives and fried garlic. Serve with grilled bread.

real estate at the farmers’ market. It’s not this recipe. For this broth—and for most tomato soups and sauces—head directly to the bin

of seconds, where the (discounted) bruised or overripe tomatoes live. They may not look pretty, but they’re beautiful on the inside.

A BA K I TC H E N PRIMER

just add ice It’s time to start thinking of frozen water as an ingredient in its own right— one that will change the way you cook by Chris Morocco

You know what fish love? Ice. Find out why on page 43.

As any chef will tell you, ice is for more than just cocktails. You’ll find an ice machine in nearly every restaurant kitchen, 4 0 • AU G U ST 2 0 1 6

where its contents are indispensable throughout the cooking process, from storing fish to cooling blanched vegetables. So while we all know that you can’t make a highball without ice, we rarely take time to stop and think of everything else these frozen blocks can do for us in the kitchen.

Ice can safeguard the texture of a sauce, preserve the snap of a green bean, aerate a coffee drink, and, of course, crystallize into any number of heat wave–crushing refreshments. Also: It’s basically free. So why not make the most of it? Here are four ways to put ice to new use.

PHOTOGRAPHS BY ALEX LAU

A BA K I TC H E N PRIMER > ice

To prepare an ice bath, start with a big bowl of cold tap water, add a few handfuls of ice cubes, and submerge a colander into the water so that you don’t have to fish around for your veg later.

1 Ice Makes Vegetables Crunchy An ice bath does two things: It turns raw veg extra crisp by restoring water to the cells. And a plunge in ice water after blanching rapidly halts the cooking process, preserving color and texture.

The Crunchiest Vegetable Salad 4 SERVINGS The salt in the ice water seasons cooked veg while they cool. V E G E TA B L E S

½ English hothouse cucumber, very thinly sliced 4 small radishes, trimmed, very thinly sliced 2 scallions, very thinly sliced 1 lb. mixed snap beans (such as green, wax, and/or Romano) Kosher salt 4 oz. sugar snap peas D R E SSI N G A ND ASSEMBLY

3 3 1 2 ¼

Tbsp. fresh lime juice Tbsp. olive oil Tbsp. soy sauce tsp. toasted sesame seeds tsp. sugar Kosher salt, freshly ground pepper

4 2 • AU G U ST 2 0 1 6

V E GE TABLE S Place cucumber, radishes,

and scallions in a colander set inside a bowl of ice water. Press down on vegetables to submerge. Let soak, stirring occasionally, until very firm and crunchy, at least 15 minutes and up to 1 hour. Drain and pat dry. Meanwhile, cook beans in a large pot of boiling generously salted water just until their color intensifies and they are barely softened, about 1 minute. Using a slotted spoon, immediately transfer to a large bowl of salted ice water (use about 1 Tbsp. salt for every 2 quarts water). Return water in pot to a boil and repeat cooking process with sugar snap peas; add to bowl of ice water with

beans. Let vegetables cool; drain and pat dry. Trim beans and remove strings from sugar snap peas. Slice into large pieces on a steep diagonal. DO AHEAD: Beans and peas can be blanched 2 days ahead. Cover and chill. DR ES S ING AND ASS EM BLY Whisk lime

juice, oil, soy sauce, sesame seeds, and sugar in a large bowl; season dressing with salt and pepper. Add beans and peas and toss to coat. Taste and adjust seasoning if needed. Add cucumber, radishes, and scallions and toss to combine. Transfer to a platter. DO AHEAD: Dressing can be made 2 days ahead. Cover and chill.

COOL TOOL: ICEMULE PRO XL

Basically a well-insulated, leakproof camping backpack, this portable cooler is

hands down the most ergonomic way to haul a 30-rack of beer and two bags of ice along any distance of hot

sand. (Surely it works for things other than beach drinking, too.) $120; icemule cooler.com —Amiel Stanek

2 Ice Aerates When shaken with a lot of ice and a splash of sweetener, espresso forms a creamy froth on top and becomes an infinitely more exciting beverage. Just ask the Italians, who taught us the genius of the shakerato.

Iced Coffee Shakerato

Advice Column

You can swap out the condensed milk for regular milk, but the simple syrup is essential for the finished texture.

…from BA editors with strong feelings about ice

Combine 1 ½ oz. espresso or 3 oz. very strong coffee, slightly cooled, 1 Tbsp. sweetened condensed milk, and 1 ½ tsp. simple syrup in a cocktail shaker. Fill shaker with ice, cover, and shake vigorously until outside of shaker is very cold and drink is very, very frothy, about 30 seconds. Using a cocktail strainer or slotted spoon to hold back ice while allowing foam and some small ice chips to pass through, pour into an ice-filled glass. Makes 1

I C E I S A F I S H ’S BEST FRIEND

Seafood needs to stay super cold, so store fish on ice even in the fridge. Pile ice into a sieve, set fish (fillets wrapped in plastic) on top, cover with more ice, and set the sieve over a bowl to catch melting ice. Refresh ice daily. —Brad Leone

ICE MAKES OR BREAKS HIGHBALLS

Ice Emulsifies Whoever said that oil and water don’t mix clearly wasn’t using ice. A little science: Colder temps help emulsions form. Next time you’re making a vinaigrette, combine all the ingredients in a jar with an ice cube and shake it vigorously. Or try this aioli, in which ice is blended into the dressing to form a sauce that won’t separate.

Garlicky Blender Aioli There are a lot of aioli recipes out there. This one uses a coddled egg instead of raw, and the blender method ensures a successful emulsion. Cook 1 large egg in a small saucepan of gently boiling water 4 minutes. Immediately transfer to a bowl of ice water and stir until egg is cool to the touch, about 1 minute. Carefully peel egg (yolk will be runny). Purée

in a blender with ½ cup olive oil, ¼ cup blanched almonds, 2 Tbsp. fresh lemon juice, and 2 lightly crushed garlic cloves until mixture is very smooth. Add 2 large ice cubes; purée until a thick emulsified sauce forms, about 1 minute. Season with salt and pepper. Blend in another ice cube if aioli is too thick (it will firm slightly once chilled). DO AHEAD: Aioli can be made 3 days ahead. Cover and chill. Makes about 1 cup

Do you know the key to crafting an ice-cold cocktail? Using lots of ice. You want it stacked up in that glass like a Jenga tower. It keeps your tonic or club soda crisp and bright, while subduing the bite of that gin or vodka. —Adam Rapoport

WITHOUT ICE, T H E R E I S N O PA RT Y

If you’re invited to a barbecue and don’t know what to take, show up with two bags of ice. Why? Because as much as people love the cubes from fancy silicone molds, the fact remains: You can never have enough ice. —A.S.

C O N T I N U E S O N PAG E 4 6

A BA K I TC H E N PRIMER > ice

The no-frills Hawaiian Shaved Ice machine turns small pucks of ice into wisps of edible snow. $30; hawaiianshavedice.com

4 Ice Makes the Chillest Desserts It doesn’t get any cooler than halohalo, the Filipino treat with a base of fluffy shaved ice. Our reimagined version plays off the original with store-bought toppings like coconut flakes and gummies.

Ode to Halo-Halo

2 very ripe bananas, sliced ¼" thick 2 Tbsp. light brown sugar ¼ tsp. vanilla extract Kosher salt 6 oz. fresh blueberries (about 1 cup) 6 oz. fresh blackberries (about 1 ½ cups), cut in half if large 2 Tbsp. fresh lime juice 1 Tbsp. granulated sugar ¾ cup unsweetened coconut milk 2 Tbsp. sweetened condensed milk 4 cups shaved ice ½ pint vanilla or coconut ice cream Toasted unsweetened coconut flakes, gummi bears, and/or popcorn (for serving) 4 6 • AU G U ST 20 1 6

Combine bananas, brown sugar, vanilla, a pinch of salt, and 2 Tbsp. water in a small bowl. Let sit, stirring occasionally, until bananas are jammy and liquid is slightly thickened, 20–30 minutes. Meanwhile, combine berries, lime juice, granulated sugar, and a pinch of salt in a medium bowl. Mash berries lightly to release juices. Let sit, stirring occasionally, until juices are slightly thickened, 15–20 minutes. Stir coconut milk and sweetened condensed milk in a small bowl to combine. Assemble halo-halo in 2 small bowls or pint glasses, alternating layers of bananas, berries, shaved ice, ice cream, and coconut milk mixture. Top as desired.

C O O L TO O L : KO KU B O I C E B OW L T R AY

At Little Park restaurant in New York, crudités are propped up in diamondlike ice bowls. The presentation is mesmerizing: Parsley sprigs suspended into the ice give the bowls an emerald glow. What the restaurant doesn’t reveal is that all it takes to serve dazzling crudités with neverending crunch is a freezer and a cheap plastic mold sold online. $8; amazon.com —Elyssa Goldberg

FOOD STYLING BY SUE LI. ILLUSTRATIONS BY JOE WILSON.

2 SERVINGS Macerating the fruit makes it extra juicy and saucy, but you could just throw in any unadulterated berry. The key to this dessert (as with any sundae) is a mix of textures: icy, creamy, chewy, crunchy.

> C I T Y G U I D E / ve r m o n t b e e r r u n

navigator

FOR THE ADDRESSES OF THE S P OTS I N T H I S S T O R Y, S E E SOURCEBOOK O N PA G E 1 0 0 .

the great vermont beer run Craft breweries are everywhere, but few places can compete with the top-notch choices in and around Burlington. We sent two beer-obsessives on a road trip to bring home the best ones, with plenty of snacks along the way by Alex De lany and Brad Le one

PHOTOGRAPHS BY WINNIE AU

AU G U ST 2 0 1 6 • 4 9

N AV I G AT O R > ve r m o n t beer run

Zero Gravity’s Côte de Champlain Belgian Strong Ale.

The perfect first stop for a beer road trip: Pours are small and free; growler fills are cheap; the brewery frequently releases new cans of its approachably hoppy ales; and the chatty folks behind the bar are exactly the crew you want to welcome you. > G rab : Second Fiddle Double IPA

FOLEY BROTHERS BREWING, BRANDON

It’s hard to drink bad beer in Vermont. The number of small breweries doing incredible things with hops, malt, yeast, and water is staggering. And they’re producing more than just brash Heady Topper– style IPAs. More than 30 such spots have opened in the past decade, hidden in rural towns around the biggest city, Burlington, amid the Green Mountains’ stunning scenic overlooks. The catch is that most of these places don’t distribute nationwide; you have to go there to get their beers. That’s why we spent three days looping around the region, trading driving duties as we filled our car with a world-class take-home haul. Follow our lead, and check off these seven points on the brew trail.

Customers at Mad Taco for al pastor tacos, kimchi (and some beer, too).

1 Build a Vermont Six-Pack Collect ’em all from the state’s top producers.

Spend an Afternoon in Burlington’s South End The must-dos in this neighborhood are within walking distance, so enjoying a solid buzz—and the views of Lake Champlain—will relax you after all that driving.

5 0 • AU G U ST 2 0 1 6

Down a gravel road— don’t miss it—there’s an old cow farm pumping out Vermont-style bitter IPAs. Crush a few in the hay barn (a.k.a. tasting room) and snag a wood-fired goat cheese pizza cooked in the oven that’s out back. G rab : Fair Maiden Imperial/Double IPA

BURLINGTON BEER CO., WILLISTON You wouldn’t expect to find such beautifully branded cans coming from a warehouse in an industrial park. Try the slightly odd varieties—including

the rye IPA and dryhopped table beer— then get some latenight picks for places nearby from the in-the-know staff. > G rab : Barista Coffee Porter

LOST NATION BREWING, MORRISVILLE The focus here is on low-alcohol session brews, so you won’t feel overly blitzed after enjoying a whole pint of their sour German-style drafts. Preferably in the outdoor Biergarten, sharing a ridiculously juicy cheeseburger made on the grill. > G rab : Lost Nation Gose

PROHIBITION PIG, WATERBURY These guys offer one of the best guest-tap lists of any brewery in the country, and their cocktails and BBQ are pretty amazing too. But what you’ve really come for are their lightly colored ales and the Cajunspiced boiled peanuts, perhaps the greatest bar snack in all the land. > G rab : Mosaic Blonde Ale

HILL FARMSTEAD BREWERY, GREENSBORO The mecca of this trip—and all American craft beer— is down a winding dirt road, on a secluded property that was once a farm. Here, Sean Hill and Co. have brewed every style beautifully. Carry out as many bottles as you can hold. > G rab : Arthur Saison

2 TRY NEW E N G L A N D’S B E S T…TA C O S

The Mexican food at Mad Taco in Montpelier is impressively authentic, except for the kimchi available as a side. Order a family platter of al pastor and carnitas tacos, plus one of every side dish. It’s a heavy meal, but it will help soak up all the beer you’ve been drinking.

ILLUSTRATIONS BY CLAIRE MCCRACKEN

FIDDLEHEAD BREWING CO., SHELBURNE

S TAY H E R E

Burlington’s Hotel Vermont has a strong tap roster and a “beer concierge” to drive you to breweries. It’s handsome, too, like a mountain lodge reimagined by a Scandinavian design firm.

HOW TO DRINK AND NOT DRIVE

The seven commandments of a safe behindthe-wheel beer pilgrimage.

Track Down Some Non-Beer Souvenirs

1 / Always pick a designated driver. 2 / Rotate driving responsibilities. 3 / Order flights of small pours. 4 / Hydrate between stops. 5 / Use Uber in cities (e.g., Burlington). 6 / Start the day with a big meal. 7 / Nap as necessary.

CHEESE

Twig Farm breeds and raises its own goats to produce grassy aged wheels using traditional farmhouse techniques.

At Willey’s True Value Hardware in Greensboro, walk past the hammers to the hidden back market. It’s one of few places you can buy Hill Farmstead’s bottles off the shelf, and the store also carries a range of award-winning Jasper Hill Farm cheeses. Go for the rich, dense Bayley Hazen Blue if it’s available.

6 S AU S AG E

Vermont Salumi makes Tuscan-inspired fennel salami, red-wine-andgarlic links, and dried chorizo that pairs well with beer and cheese.

TEXTILES

Johnson Woolen Mills is the proper choice for buffalo-plaid hunting jackets and durable wool picnic blankets.

CERAMICS

From top left: Cajun peanuts at Prohibition Pig; a pizza with local maple syrup at Foley Brothers, and employee Lisle Gilbert gulping a beer.

Jeremy Ayers Pottery throws nicely balanced mugs and boldly striped bowls and cake platters.

for 7 AtheMeal Road Finish off your trip with one of the best suppers in the state at Misery Loves Co. in Winooski. Chef-owners Aaron Josinsky and Nathaniel Wade serve sophisticated takes on regional game and produce—like this silky scallop crudo with buttermilk—alongside cocktails often made with locally distilled spirits. After, head to the Monkey House, a dive across the street, for one final farewell brew.

1 P. M .

2 P. M .

3 P. M .

4 P. M .

Hit Zero Gravity Craft Brewery for a Belgian-style beer at a table outside.

Onward to Queen City Craft Brewery for its classic English-style ales.

Next up: Switchback Brewing Co. Try the namesake one, a local favorite.

You need a break from all the beer. Good thing Citizen Cider is up the road.

AU G U ST 2 0 1 6 • 5 1

W H AT H A P P E N S WHEN TWO TA L E N T E D C H E F S BUNK UP WITH THEIR PA L S I N M A I N E ? THEY COOK ALL D A Y, T H E C A N O E S COME OUT BY NOON, AND THE WEEKEND P A S S E S B L I S S F U L LY BETWEEN LUNCHTIME LAMB GY R O S A N D L AT E NIGHT BLONDIE SUNDAES BY BELLE CUSHING R EC I P E S BY J OS H UA M C FA D D E N A N D SA R A K R A M E R PHOTOGRAPHS BY PEDEN + MUNK

“A R E

YOU GOING SWIMMING?

Joshua McFadden asks without lifting his head from the candy-stripe beets he’s slicing paperthin. He’s talking to Sara Kramer, his co-chef for the weekend, who is bent over the counter measuring buckwheat flour for the night’s dessert. She declines his offer; she’s got flatbreads to roll and yogurt sauce to mix. There are hours to go before lunch, and though it’s nearly noon, no one’s too concerned. At this lake house in Maine, time doesn’t work the way it does elsewhere. McFadden is from Portland, Oregon, where he’s building an empire of vegetable-driven cuisine. He’s the chef-owner of Ava Gene’s (a BA Hot 10 restaurant in 2013) and recently opened Tusk restaurant nearby; he’s writing a produce-focused cookbook and consults on menus for the Lodge at Suttle Lake, a B&B in northeast Oregon. But he’s spent a lot of time near the Portland of the East. As a young cook working on a Maine farm, he solidified his signature approach—only the freshest vegetables, treated with care, and jolted with enough acid that even carrots become addictive. He returns to the state at least once a year, never with any real plans, as if to satisfy a fix. This time he’s brought along his friends. At this cozy 1880s rental on Lake Megunticook in Camden, a cabal of West Coasters (and one Italian) are taking turns cannonballing off the dock, every so often wandering barefoot into the kitchen to sneak a corner off the still-warm blondies. If the cooking is elevated, mealtime is relaxed. The porch steps seem as good a place as any to dig into a fried fish sandwich, as one meal runs lazily into the next for three days straight.

”

We’re not far from Four Season Farm, where McFadden worked under Eliot Coleman, a pioneer in organics. We’re even closer to Islesboro Island, where McFadden spent some of his 20s, summering with a family as their private chef. He may be a star on the West Coast, but when McFadden visits the market in nearby Belfast, the ladies at the register still remember him as the cutie who’s obsessed with local Fox Family Potato Chips. Kramer, now the chef-owner of the falafel café Madcapra in Los Angeles, met McFadden when they cooked together a decade ago at Blue Hill in New York City. In the kitchen now, the two are at ease, even as friends swarm around them, hungry after their morning swim. What’s the plan? The question comes up often, but there’s never a real answer. “Let’s talk about it later,” McFadden says. “See these beautiful vegetables? We’re going to cook them.” Or, simply, “Aren’t you going to go swimming again?” By lunch, a canoe trip has built up an appetite for McFadden’s riff on pho, loaded with lobster and cooked over a fire pit. Guests take turns shelling cranberry beans on the back deck or tending the flame, which fuels much of the cooking, from some grilled cipollines to the smoky lamb for gyros. “It’s good food and good friends,” McFadden says. He’s standing on the deck, looking out at the sinking sun, the towels drying on the dock, with all the people surrounding him very full and very happy. It’s almost 6 p.m., according to some clock no one is checking. The fire is still roaring, and the pink wine has been open for hours. Dinner? They’ll get to it. Breakfast—that’s tomorrow. Now, finally, Sara and Josh jump in.

CLOCKWISE F R O M TO P L E F T: SARA KRAMER; FISH SANDWICHES ( P. 6 7 ) ; FA R M E R MYRTHA ZIEROCK BUILDS A G Y R O P L AT E ; L A M B GY ROS ( P. 6 7 ) ; J O S H U A M C FA D D E N ; B LO O DY M A RY SERVICE. PREVIOUS PAG E : D E STEMMING SEA BUCKTHORN.

CLOTHING DESIGNER NAHANNI WA G N E R TA K E S IN THE SUN.

DEMERARA SUGAR BUNS P. 6 8

T O M AT O SALAD WITH CARDAMOM P. 6 8

GRILLROASTED LAMB FO R GY ROS P. 6 7

R AW BEET AND CUCUMBER SALAD P. 6 8

P I S TAC H I O YO G U RT SAUCE P. 6 8

T H E N E V E RENDING MEAL You’ve rented a house and plan to cook with your squad, but how do you pull that off? McFadden’s advice:

P U T I T TO PA P E R

N O S E RV I C E

J U ST D E L EGAT E

DISH IT OUT

B E WA R E T H E W I N E

“Sit down with a pen and a glass of wine before you get there,” he says. “Write a list of everything you need to buy, then decide when you’re going to do each thing.” Make sauces, desserts, and breads ahead if you can.

This is summer! Mealtimes are for fall. Put out food when it’s ready. “This is a low-formality situation,” McFadden says. Mismatched plates and silverware stacked at one end of the table trump real place settings.

“Assign tasks. One person is on the wine, another handles cocktails. And while you’re cooking, get guests involved in specific duties that novice cooks can handle, like picking herbs or cleaning blueberries,” he says.

McFadden’s guests follow one rule: “People should always do the dishes.” There’s a grace period after lunch during which plates can stay stacked, but before the next round of eating starts, a cleanup is essential.

Since your cooking time overlaps with your hang time, of course you’re going to accept a glass from that bottle that’s being passed around. But don’t overdo it. “For real,” McFadden warns. “Or else you’ll burn stuff.”

FAUX LOBSTER PHO P. 6 9

CLOCKWISE F R O M T O P L E F T: LOBSTER PHO FOR LUNCH ( P. 6 9 ) ; Z I E R O C K PICKS LOBSTER; ARTIST JULIE O’ROURKE , B A BY I N TOW; BLONDIE S U N D A E S ( P. 6 9 ) ; POLER OUTDOOR ST U F F ’S B E N J I WA G N E R VENTURES OUT BY CANOE .

FRIED FISH SANDWICHES WITH LOBSTER MAYO MAKES 8 If topping a fried fish sandwich with lobster mayo sounds decadent… well, it is. And if you leave out the lobster meat, you’re still eating like a king. LO B ST E R M AYO

1 cup small pieces cooked lobster meat 1 cup mayonnaise ⅓ cup chopped bread-andbutter pickles 3 Tbsp. finely chopped shallot 1 Tbsp. fresh lemon juice Hot sauce Kosher salt F I SH A N D ASSE MBLY

1 1 1 ½ 3 1 1

8 4 ⅔ ⅔ ⅔ 2 8

cup all-purpose flour tsp. cayenne pepper tsp. kosher salt, plus more large eggs, beaten to blend cup finely crushed potato chips cup panko (Japanese breadcrumbs) Vegetable oil (for frying; about 8 cups) 5-oz. skinless, boneless haddock or cod pieces Lemon wedges (for fish) seeded hamburger buns Tbsp. unsalted butter, melted cup baby arugula cup finely shredded Napa cabbage cup parsley leaves with tender stems Tbsp. bread-and-butter pickle juice slices tomato, preferably heirloom

SPECIAL EQUIPMENT: A deep-fry

thermometer LO B ST E R M AYO Mix lobster, mayonnaise, pickles, shallot, and lemon juice in a small bowl; season with hot sauce and salt. DO AHEAD: Lobster mayonnaise can be made 1 day ahead. Cover and chill. FI S H A N D ASSE M B LY Preheat oven

to 200°. Whisk flour, cayenne pepper, and 1 ½ tsp. salt in a shallow bowl to combine. Place eggs in another shallow bowl. Combine potato chips and panko in a third shallow bowl. Pour oil into a large pot to come 2" up sides; fit with thermometer. Heat over medium-high until thermometer registers 350°. Meanwhile, working with 1 piece at a time, dip fish in flour mixture, shaking off excess, then dip in egg, letting excess

drip back into bowl. Pack panko mixture onto fish, pressing firmly to adhere; shake off excess and place on a wire rack set inside a rimmed baking sheet. Fry fish 2 pieces at a time, turning occasionally, until deep golden brown and cooked through, about 5 minutes. Transfer to another wire rack set inside a rimmed baking sheet. Squeeze a little lemon over and season with salt. Transfer to oven to keep warm until ready to assemble sandwich. Heat a griddle or dry large cast-iron skillet over medium. Brush cut sides of buns with butter; cook, butter side down, until golden brown, about 2 minutes. Toss arugula, cabbage, parsley, and pickle juice in a large bowl. Spread half of lobster mayonnaise over bottom halves of buns; top with arugula mixture. Top with fish then tomato slices. Spoon remaining lobster mayonnaise over and close sandwiches.

LAMB GYROS 8 SERVINGS Grilling and then roasting adds smoky notes to the lamb and jump-starts the browning, but you can simplify by roasting at 475° for the first 10 minutes, then lowering the heat.

6 lb. bone-in lamb shoulder, excess fat trimmed 2 Tbsp. kosher salt, plus more 1 cup plain whole-milk yogurt ½ cup chopped mixed herbs (such as thyme, oregano, sage, and/or rosemary) 2 Tbsp. finely grated lemon zest 1 ½ tsp. crushed red pepper flakes Freshly ground black pepper Grilled Gyro Flatbread (see recipe) Pistachio-Yogurt Sauce (see recipe, p. 68) Quick-Pickled Chiles (see recipe, p. 68) Rub lamb all over with 2 Tbsp. salt, massaging into meat; place on a wire rack set inside a rimmed baking sheet. Combine yogurt, herbs, lemon zest, and red pepper flakes in a small bowl; generously season with black pepper. Rub all over lamb, working into nooks and crannies. Chill, uncovered, at least 8 hours and up to 1 day. Let lamb sit about 1 hour to come to room temperature. Prepare a grill for medium-high heat. Preheat oven to 300°. Grill lamb, turning occasionally, until lightly charred all over,

8–10 minutes. Return to wire rack inside rimmed baking sheet and transfer to oven. Roast until meat is very tender and bone wiggles easily, 3 ½–4 ½ hours. Transfer lamb to a cutting board, pour any juices in baking sheet over, and tent with foil; let rest at least 30 minutes before removing bones and tearing meat into pieces. Serve lamb on flatbreads with yogurt sauce and pickled chiles.

GRILLED GYRO FLATBREAD MAKES 12 Can you buy pocketless pita instead? Sure. But nothing beats the drama of freshly made bread.

2 tsp. Morton or 4 tsp. Diamond Crystal kosher salt ¾ cup whole wheat flour 3 cups all-purpose flour, plus more 1 ¼-oz. envelope active dry yeast (about 2 ¼ tsp.) 1 ½ tsp. sugar 2 Tbsp. olive oil, plus more Combine salt, whole wheat flour, and 3 cups all-purpose flour in a large bowl. Whisk yeast, sugar, and 1 ¼ cups warm water in a medium bowl and let sit until foamy, about 5 minutes. Make a well in center of dry ingredients and pour in yeast mixture, then 2 Tbsp. oil. Mix with a wooden spoon until a shaggy dough forms; turn out onto a work surface and knead dough, dusting with all-purpose flour as needed, until dough is smooth, firm, very elastic, and no longer sticky, 8–10 minutes. Place in an oiled large bowl, cover, and let sit in a warm spot until doubled in size, 60–75 minutes. Punch down dough, turn out onto work surface, and divide into 12 equal pieces. Roll each piece into a ball; place on a lightly floured rimmed baking sheet. Dust tops of balls with flour; cover loosely with plastic wrap. Let sit in a warm spot until nearly doubled in size, 45–60 minutes. Prepare a grill for medium-high heat. (Alternatively, heat a dry large cast-iron skillet over medium-high.) Working with 1 ball of dough at a time and keeping remaining balls covered, roll out on a floured surface to a 7" round. Grill until puffed and blistered in a few spots but still soft, 45 seconds per side. DO AHEAD: Dough can be made 1 day ahead. Let rise before proceeding. Cover and chill. Flatbread can be cooked 30 minutes ahead. Let cool slightly, then wrap in foil and keep warm in a 250° oven.

PISTACHIO-YOGURT SAUCE MAKES ABOUT 1 ¼ CUPS

We didn’t know how much this sauce was missing from our lives until we had it; serve with grilled or roasted meat, or as a side to crispskinned fish, such as broiled salmon. 1 1 1 ¼

cup raw pistachios garlic clove, finely grated tsp. finely grated lemon zest cup olive oil, plus more Kosher salt, freshly ground pepper 1 cup plain whole-milk Greek yogurt

Preheat oven to 350°. Toast pistachios on a rimmed baking sheet, tossing once, until golden brown, 5–8 minutes. Let cool, then process in a food processor until very finely ground. Add garlic and lemon zest and process until a coarse paste forms. With motor running, stream in ¼ cup oil and process until mixture is smooth and no longer grainy (texture should be like tahini). Season with salt and pepper. Place yogurt in a medium bowl and season with salt and pepper. Thin with a little oil until about the same consistency as the pistachio paste. Fold pistachio paste into yogurt, leaving mixture marbled.

QUICK-PICKLED CHILES 8 SERVINGS A great, basic pickle brine that complements any pepper you like.

3 Fresno chiles, thinly sliced on a diagonal 2 Hungarian wax chiles, thinly sliced on a diagonal 1 cup Sauvignon Blanc vinegar or white wine vinegar ½ cup sugar 1 Tbsp. kosher salt SPECIAL EQUIPMENT: A 1-pint heatproof jar

Place chiles in jar. Bring vinegar, sugar, and salt to a boil in a small saucepan, stirring to dissolve sugar and salt. Pour brine over chiles, seal jar, and let cool. DO AHEAD: Chiles can be pickled 1 week ahead. Chill.

RAW BEET AND CUCUMBER SALAD 8 SERVINGS To prep this salad ahead (there’s a lot of slicing involved), hold beets and scallions in a bowl of cold water with a splash of vinegar, which both seasons them and maintains crunch.

4 small Chioggia (candy-stripe) and/or yellow beets, peeled, halved, very thinly sliced ½ English hothouse cucumber, some peel removed in thin alternating strips, halved lengthwise, thinly sliced 2 Persian or kirby cucumbers, some peel removed in thin alternating strips, thinly sliced 6 scallions, white and pale-green parts only, sliced into 2"-long thin strips 2 Fresno chiles, very thinly sliced 1 Hungarian wax chile, very thinly sliced Zest of 1 lemon, removed in wide strips, very thinly sliced 5 oz. ricotta salata (salted dry ricotta), crumbled 2 cups torn mixed tender herbs (such as basil, mint, parsley, cilantro, and/or fennel fronds) ¼ cup (or more) Sauvignon Blanc vinegar, preferably late harvest ½ tsp. sugar 2 tsp. poppy seeds, plus more Kosher salt, freshly ground pepper Olive oil (for drizzling) Toss beets, both cucumbers, scallions, both chiles, lemon zest, ricotta salata, and herbs in a large bowl to combine. Add vinegar, sugar, and 2 tsp. poppy seeds, season with salt and pepper, and drizzle with oil. Toss salad gently to coat. Taste and drizzle with more vinegar if needed. Transfer salad to a platter, lightly drizzle with more oil, and sprinkle with more poppy seeds.

TOMATO SALAD WITH CARDAMOM 8 SERVINGS Freshness counts. Buy prime tomatoes when they’re in season. And, if possible, grind whole green cardamom pods rather than using powdered.

3 pints mixed small heirloom tomatoes, halved, quartered if large ¼ cup Quick-Pickled Chiles (see recipe) 1 garlic clove, finely grated 3 Tbsp. fresh lemon juice 3 Tbsp. olive oil ¼ tsp. ground cardamom Kosher salt, freshly ground pepper ¼ cup cilantro leaves with tender stems

Combine tomatoes and pickled chiles in a large bowl. Whisk garlic, lemon juice, oil, and cardamom in a small bowl and pour over tomato mixture; toss to coat. Season with salt and a generous amount of pepper; top with cilantro.

DEMERARA SUGAR BUNS MAKES 12 Combining the sugary filling with dried spice (in this case, juniper) infuses the buns with flavor and perfumes them from the inside. In its place, you can use ground cinnamon, coriander, even fennel.

1 ¼-oz. envelope active dry yeast (about 2 ¼ tsp.) ⅔ cup whole milk, warmed 3 Tbsp. pure maple syrup 2 large eggs, room temperature ¾ tsp. kosher salt 1 cup whole wheat flour 2 ¾ cups all-purpose flour, plus more 6 Tbsp. unsalted butter, room temperature, cut into 1" pieces, plus melted for brushing (about 4 Tbsp.) ⅓ cup granulated sugar, plus more 5 dried juniper berries (optional) ⅓ cup demerara sugar, plus more Whisk yeast, milk, and maple syrup in the bowl of a stand mixer just to combine, then let sit until foamy, about 5 minutes. Whisk in eggs; add salt, whole wheat flour, 2 ¾ cups all-purpose flour, and 6 Tbsp. butter and mix on low speed with dough hook until a shaggy dough forms. Increase speed to medium and mix until dough comes together into a smooth ball and pulls away from the sides of bowl, 10–12 minutes. Place dough in a buttered large bowl and cover. Let sit in a warm spot until doubled in size, 1–1 ½ hours. Preheat oven to 400°. Butter a 13x9" baking dish and sprinkle with granulated sugar, tapping out excess. If using juniper berries, finely grind in a spice mill or using a mortar and pestle. Mix ground juniper (if using), ⅓ cup demerara sugar, and ⅓ cup granulated sugar in a small bowl. Punch down dough and turn out onto a lightly floured surface; divide into 3 pieces. Working with 1 piece at a time and keeping the other pieces covered in plastic wrap, roll out dough into about a 12x8" rectangle. Sprinkle with one-third of sugar mixture and cut crosswise into 4 pieces (you should have four 8x3" rectangles). Roll up each piece to make a long rope; squeeze ends gently and

pinch along seam to seal. Tug rope to stretch so it’s about 10" long, then tie into a knot. You should end up with 12 buns. Arrange buns in prepared pan to make a 4x3 grid and brush with melted butter. Sprinkle with demerara sugar and cover loosely with plastic wrap. Let sit until buns look puffed and lightly hold the imprint of a finger when gently pressed, 50–70 minutes. Bake until buns are golden brown and sugar is caramelized, 15–20 minutes. Turn out of baking dish onto a wire rack and let cool slightly. DO AHEAD: Dough can be made 1 day ahead (do not let it rise). Cover and chill.

Using a slotted spoon, remove solids from lobster broth; discard (you want to get rid of the shells and cobs, but don’t worry about getting every last aromatic); season with salt. Add linguine and cook, stirring occasionally, until al dente, 8–10 minutes. Remove from heat and stir in corn kernels, radishes, 1 cup basil, and remaining cherry tomatoes. Chop reserved lobster meat into bitesize pieces; drizzle with oil just to coat. Divide linguine and broth among bowls and top with lobster meat, fennel fronds, parsley, cilantro, chiles, and more basil. Squeeze lemons over top; drizzle with oil.

FAUX LOBSTER PHO

BLONDIE SUNDAES WITH FRIED WALNUTS AND CANDIED FENNEL

8 SERVINGS

PROP STYLING BY AMY WILSON. PHOTOGRAPHED ON LOCATION AT BABB CAMP. FOR DETAILS, GO TO VRBO.COM/692155. FOR MORE DETAILS, SEE SOURCEBOOK.

You could also call this Lobster Noodle Soup. It gets its depth from lobster stock made with the shells and the rich sweetness of corn cobs. 4 1–1½-lb. lobsters 5 ears of corn, kernels removed, cobs reserved 1 large fennel bulb, fronds removed, bulb cored, thinly sliced 1 large leek, white and pale-green parts only, thinly sliced into rings 2 baby eggplants, sliced into ¼" rounds 1 oz. dried porcini mushrooms 2 cups broccoli rabe, thick stems removed ⅓ cup tomato paste 2 Tbsp. Old Bay seasoning 2 pints cherry tomatoes, halved, divided Kosher salt 1 lb. linguine 4 radishes, trimmed, quartered 1 cup basil sprigs, plus more Olive oil, parsley leaves, cilantro leaves, thinly sliced fresh chiles, and lemon wedges (for serving) Bring 6 quarts water to a boil in a large stockpot. Add lobsters, cover, and cook 8–10 minutes. Transfer lobsters to a rimmed baking sheet. Let sit until cool enough to handle, then separate claws and tails from bodies; return bodies to pot. Add corn cobs, sliced fennel, leek, eggplants, mushrooms, broccoli rabe, tomato paste, Old Bay seasoning, and 1 pint cherry tomatoes. Pick meat from tails and claws; set meat aside. Add shells to pot and bring to a boil. Cook, stirring occasionally and adding water as needed to keep everything submerged, until liquid is opaque, thick, and very flavorful, 50–60 minutes.

MAKES 8 Sometimes the oddestsounding things are the most mindblowing. Case in point: this savory, crunchy, juicy, sugary sundae.

1 cup raw walnuts 1 cup sugar 1 large fennel bulb, fronds reserved, bulb cored, thinly sliced Zest from 1 lemon, removed in wide strips 1 vanilla bean, split lengthwise Vegetable oil (for frying; about 4 cups) ⅔ cup powdered sugar 2 pints vanilla gelato or ice cream 1 pint ground cherries or cape gooseberries, husks removed, rinsed, halved (optional) Buckwheat–Brown Butter Blondies, broken into large pieces (see recipe) SPECIAL EQUIPMENT: A deep-fry

thermometer Preheat oven to 350°. Toast walnuts on a rimmed baking sheet, tossing once, until golden brown, 5–8 minutes. Let cool slightly; place in a heatproof jar or airtight container. Heat sugar and 1 cup water in a medium saucepan over medium, stirring, until sugar dissolves. Let cool slightly; then pour over walnuts. Seal jar and let sit at least 12 hours and up to 1 day. Pour walnuts into a fine-mesh sieve set over a clean medium saucepan and let syrup drain into saucepan, tossing walnuts to shake off excess. Transfer walnuts to a medium bowl. Reserve sieve. Add sliced fennel and lemon zest to syrup; scrape in vanilla seeds and add pod. Bring to a simmer over low heat.

Cook, stirring occasionally, until fennel is translucent and tender, 20–25 minutes. Discard pod; let fennel cool in syrup. Fit another medium saucepan with thermometer; pour in oil to come 2" up sides of pan. Heat oil over medium-high until thermometer registers 350°. Add powdered sugar to walnuts and toss to coat. Place in reserved sieve and shake off excess sugar. Carefully add walnuts to oil and cook, turning with a spider or slotted spoon to prevent sticking, until brown and crisp, about 3 minutes. Transfer to a parchment-lined rimmed baking sheet; let cool. Break up any clumps. Scoop gelato into bowls. Top with ground cherries, blondie pieces, walnuts, candied fennel, and fennel fronds. DO AHEAD: Walnuts can be fried 2 days ahead. Let cool; store airtight at room temperature. Fennel can be candied 2 days ahead. Let cool in syrup; transfer to an airtight container and chill.

BUCKWHEAT–BROWN BUTTER BLONDIES MAKES 16 Take the butter to the edge of burning; the deep toasty, nutty flavors that develop are a needed counterpoint to the earthiness of the buckwheat.

1 ⅓ ⅓ 1 1 ¾ 5 1

Nonstick vegetable oil spray cups buckwheat flour cup almond flour or meal tsp. kosher salt cup (2 sticks) unsalted butter cup sugar large egg yolks large egg

Preheat oven to 325°. Lightly coat a 13x9" baking dish with nonstick spray. Whisk buckwheat flour, almond flour, and salt in a medium bowl to combine. Cook butter in a medium saucepan over medium-low heat, stirring often, until it foams, then browns, 5–8 minutes. Transfer to a large bowl; let cool slightly. Add sugar and whisk until smooth. Whisking constantly, add egg yolks one at a time followed by whole egg, beating after each addition to fully incorporate before adding more. Add dry ingredients and mix until smooth. Scrape batter into prepared dish; smooth top. Bake blondies until lightly browned and center is firm when gently pressed, 15–20 minutes. Transfer dish to a wire rack and let cool. Cut into small bars. DO AHEAD: Blondies can be made 2 days ahead. Store tightly covered at room temperature.

ANDREW MARIANI

Wallace of Dirty & Rowdy went from blogging to making offbeat wines.

A M Y AT WO O D Oeno, Amy Atwood Selections

H A R DY WA L L AC E

Classics get a makeover at Mariani’s Scribe. So long, oak.

CALiFO H O LY C H A R D O N N AY !

HANK BECKMEYER & CAROLINE HOEL L a C l a r i n e Fa r m

E M I LY TOW E & M I C H A E L C H R I ST I A N

ST E V E M AT T H I ASSO N Matthiasson Wines

W I N E I S F I N A L LY F U N . A N D S O

BY MARISSA A. ROSS

- PHOTOGRAPHS BY JAKE STANGEL

She runs J. Brix; he runs Los Pilares: two wineries putting San Diego on the map.

PA X M A H L E T R AC E Y & J A R E D B R A N DT D o n ke y & G o a t

Mahle’s Wind Gap focuses on cooler-climate renditions of grapes like Pinot Noir and Syrah.

Yo u ju s t m ay s p o t t he s e w i n e m a ke r s drinking a Terroir w i n e b ar in S F, where we got most of these shots.

Brockway puts out esoteric varietals from Broc Cellars, his urban winery in Berkeley.

These three friends share profits and expenses at their co-op, Living Wines Collective.

F R O M L E F T: M A R T H A S T O U M E N , D I E G O R O I G & S H AU N T O U N G O U L I A N

C H R I S B R O C K WAY

MICHAEL CRUSE Cruse Wine Co.

ARE THE PEOPLE WHO MAKE IT

CA L I FO R N I A I S N’ T J U ST A P L AC E ,

it’s a perspective. It’s 75 and sunny, avocado on everything, and the Beach Boys playing with the windows rolled down on a drive up the PCH. But if there’s one thing that hasn’t quite gelled with this picture, it’s California wine. Stodgy and expected, the steakhouse bottles of the ’90s were a far cry from the state’s signature free spirit; there is nothing “chill” about a trophy wine like Opus One. But a different style is finally taking hold, and it’s redefining what California wine is all about. Forget buttery Chardonnays and ginormous Cabs. A new generation of progressive winemakers is breaking the rules of heavy oak and high alcohol to make wines that are lighter, brighter, and way more fun. This is wine the California way, and it’s never tasted so good. Here are six reasons to drink up.

North of Sonoma and cooler in temperature and temperament, Mendocino County, including its subregion Anderson Valley, is the place for leaner Pinot Noir. TRY: Copain Tous Ensemble PN, $27

MENDOCINO

1 TRY: Oeno Russian River Rosé, $23

T H E W I N E RY I S T H E N E W STA RT-U P

TRY: Donkey & Goat Sluice Box, $28

She not only makes her own easy-to-drink wines under the label Oeno. She distributes the wares of fellow makers, too—because great wine means nothing if no one can find it. Her portfolio reads like an MLB AllStar list of small-scale heavy hitters, and most locally focused wine lists in the state have her to thank.

Repping a new wave

Doing the whole urban winery thing This couple quit their tech jobs to start a tiny operation in a graffitied warehouse (classic Berkeley, right?). They trained with a natural wine master in France, and apply those skills to wines that range from funky pet-nat to classic Rhône blends with grapes like Grenache and Syrah.

A M Y AT WO O D, A my At wo o d Selections

T R AC E Y & J A R E D B R A N DT, D o n key & G o a t

TRY: Matthiasson Cab. Sauvignon, $60

The classic rock of the movement, Matthiasson enacts change right in Napa, the epicenter of butter and oak. He consults for highprofile labels, and produces defiantly restrained and classy Cabs and Chards of his own. (This is the wine to impress your boss or parents.)

Keeping Napa cool

STEVE M AT T H I A S S O N , Matthiasson Wines

THE PIONEERS WHO ARE DEFINING THE MOVEMENT

TRY: La Clarine Farm, Jambalaia Rouge, $25

Farmers as much as winemakers (they keep goats as well as vines), this couple makes unfiltered, unconventional “field blends” from a mix of whatever grapes happen to grow together (chemicalfree) in their Sierra Foothills vineyards.

Putting the farm back in winemaking

HANK BECKMEYER & CAROLINE H O E L , L a C l a r i n e Fa r m

Three friends building a passion project in a parent’s garage. It’s not a tech start-up. It’s Living Wines Collective, a co-op of college buddies sharing space, expenses, profits, and ideas to produce three different labels: Elizia (traditional Euro techniques); Les Lunes (classic Cali grapes); and their team effort, Populis (wines to chug). Low-budget, high-achieving: It’s the new business model.

TRY: Ultramarine is near unfindable, so look for his Sparkling Valdiguié, $30

The biochemist turned winemaker is the Tarantino of fizz: prolific and irreverent. He consults on sparkling-wine projects for fellow winemakers around the state, and his Champagne-style Ultramarine is, to wine nerds, a status symbol akin to Krug.

Finding Champagne on the West Coast

MICHAEL CRUSE , Cruse Wine Co.

MAKERS MEET THE

Y E S, T H E Y M A K E W I N E I N SA N D I EG O

Wineries like Stolpman Vineyards are channeling Tuscany, growing Sangiovese in the rocky limestone soils of Ballard Canyon. It’s California does Chianti. TRY: Stolpman Sangiovese, $32

S A N TA B A R B A R A

Think Rhône Valley meets Beaujolais (hilly vineyards great for both Syrah and Gamay) but next door to Yosemite. TRY: RPM Gamay Noir, $33

TRY: Scribe Skin Ferment Carneros Chardonnay, $38 (500 ml); Arnot Roberts Watson Ranch Chardonnay, $35; Wind Gap Sonoma Coast Chardonnay, $36; Broc Cellars Michael Mara Sonoma County Chardonnay, $42

“You can still get a ’90s-style oak bomb if you want, but that kind of Chardonnay is just not that interesting anymore. Now you also find versions that are high acid and vibrant. Rather than heavily influencing the wine in the cellar to achieve a preconceived idea, we want it to taste like the grape and the place. Our whites are fermented in concrete or steel, which don’t impart the same flavor as oak would. The concrete is even made with California base rock, so the wines are pure C.A. all the way.” —Andrew Mariani, Scribe Winery

Many of these wines are small production and hard to find, but because they’re domestic, you can buy straight from the wineries’ websites. Be advised: Alabama, Arkansas, Delaware, Kentucky, Mississippi, Oklahoma, and Utah do not allow direct shipment of alcohol.

H OW TO B U Y:

TRY: Bedrock Heritage Red, $39, made from 100-plusyear-old Zin vines from the winemaker’s own family vineyard plus weirder varieties like Grand Noir de la Calmette.

To look forward, winemakers are looking back: traditional processes, century-old vines, forgotten grapes (ever heard of Valdiguié? Didn’t think so—but you should seek out this Beaujolais-like red). Even Zinfandel, one of the earliest grapes planted in the region, is back in a not-so-highalcohol way. There’s a history here, and these producers are a part of it.

VIBES

WE DIG THE OLD-SCHOOL

C H A R D O N N AY: W E CA N’ T B E L I E V E I T’S N OT B U T T E RY

TRY: Los Pilares LaDona’s Sparkling Muscat, $25; Vesper McCormick Ranch Carignan, $24; J. Brix Rougarou Carignan, $25

This city of surfers and fish tacos has zero wine culture, and that’s what’s so freeing about the place: Other Cali winemakers break the rules, but here there are none, so the door is wide open for pioneers like Los Pilares, with its funky skin-contact pét-nat, and Vesper and J. Brix, which focus on single vineyard bottlings.

THERE’S MORE TO THE NEW CALIFORNIA THAN T H E TO U R I S T Y S TA N D B YS . THREE LESSER-KNOWN REGIONS TO EXPLORE

NOT JUST NAPA

3 SIERRA F O OT H I L L S

S A NDW IC H

T H E BA M U F F U L E T TA P. 76

SU PR E ME S H O U L D YO U M A K E A LOBSTER ROLL WITH B U T T E R O R M AYO ? W H AT ’S T H E S E C R E T TO A WORLD-CLASS M U F F U L E T TA? W E D E B AT E D A L L T H I S (AND MORE!) IN OUR S E A R C H F O R B E S T- E V E R VERSIONS OF THESE SUMMER ICONS BY CHRIS MOROCCO PHOTOGRAPHS BY GENTL & HYERS

The BA Muffuletta 4 SERVINGS

There is no better beach or picnic sandwich: It feeds a crowd, gets better as it sits, and is a hearty meal built inside a loaf of bread. About that bread: Unless you live in New Orleans and can get the real thing, opt for a ciabatta or other loaf with a sturdy but not too crusty exterior. O L I V E SAL A D

5 oil-packed Calabrian chiles or 1 fresh Fresno chile, chopped 1 shallot, finely chopped 2 garlic cloves, finely chopped 1 cup Castelvetrano or green Cerignola olives, pitted, chopped ¾ cup Picholine or Spanish olives, pitted, chopped ½ cup chopped, drained, piquillo peppers or roasted red peppers from a jar ⅓ cup olive oil 3 Tbsp. chopped drained capers 3 Tbsp. red wine vinegar 1 Tbsp. chopped oregano Kosher salt, freshly ground pepper ASSE M B LY

1 large ciabatta loaf or other soft Italian bread ¼ lb. thinly sliced Genoa salami ¼ lb. thinly sliced hot capocollo ¼ lb. thinly sliced provolone cheese ½ lb. mozzarella ¼ lb. thinly sliced mortadella ¼ lb. thinly sliced prosciutto O L I V E SAL A D Combine Calabrian

chiles, shallot, garlic, both olives, piquillo peppers, oil, capers, vinegar, and oregano in a medium bowl; season with salt and pepper. DO AHEAD: Olive salad can be made 1 day ahead. Cover and chill. A S S E M B LY Split bread in half along the equator line. Divide olive salad, including any liquid, between halves. Lay salami on bottom half of bread, followed by capocollo, provolone, mozzarella, mortadella, and prosciutto. Close sandwich and wrap tightly in plastic. Place between 2 baking sheets and weigh down with a heavy pot or two to flatten slightly. Let sit at room temperature, turning over halfway, 1–3 hours before cutting into wedges to serve.

Egg Salad Tartines with Mixed Herbs 4 SERVINGS

Not a mayo maker? Season your favorite brand with vinegar and hot sauce to bump up the tang and add heat.

California Veggie Sandwich 4 SERVINGS

We like sandwiches that send juices running down to our elbows, which is why we insist on dressing the lettuce. If you want to use store-bought giardiniera, skip the first step.

MAYON N AIS E

1 large egg yolk 2 tsp. Dijon mustard Kosher salt ¼ cup olive oil ¼ cup vegetable oil 4 tsp. apple cider vinegar ½ tsp. hot sauce Freshly ground black pepper

PICKLES

2 ½ ¼ 4

E GG SALAD AND ASS EM BLY

8 large eggs Kosher salt, freshly ground pepper 4 pieces focaccia or slices country-style bread, toasted 2 scallions, very thinly sliced ¼ cup torn basil leaves ¼ cup torn dill fronds 2 Tbsp. ½" pieces chives ½ tsp. finely grated lemon zest 1 tsp. fresh lemon juice Olive oil (for drizzling) MAYON N AISE Combine egg yolk, mustard, and a pinch salt in a medium bowl. Anchor bowl by setting it inside a towel-lined saucepan, which will afford you 2 free hands—1 for pouring and 1 for whisking. Whisk until very smooth. Combine olive and vegetable oil in a measuring glass and pour into yolk mixture, drop by drop at first, then in a slow steady stream as mixture stiffens, until all the oil has been added. Whisk in vinegar and hot sauce; season with salt and pepper. Thin mayo with water if needed, adding a teaspoonful at a time until just loose enough to fall off a spoon. E GG SALAD AN D ASS EM BLY Gently lower eggs into a large saucepan of boiling salted water, and cook, maintaining an active simmer, 9 minutes. Immediately transfer eggs with a slotted spoon to a bowl of ice water and stir until cool enough to handle, about 1 minute. Drain, pat dry, and peel eggs. Tear eggs into large pieces and add to mayonnaise. Gently fold just to coat; season with salt and pepper. Spoon over bread. Toss scallions, basil, dill, chives, and lemon zest in a small bowl. Add lemon juice, drizzle with oil, and season with salt. Toss to coat. Pile herbs on top of egg.

cups apple cider vinegar cup (packed) light brown sugar cup kosher salt cups any combination shredded carrots, sliced cucumbers, sliced red onions, and/or sliced mild fresh chiles DR ES S ING AND ASS EM BLY

¼ ¼ 1 6 2 6 6 8 ½ 2

cup buttermilk cup plain whole-milk Greek yogurt Tbsp. fresh lemon juice Tbsp. olive oil, divided Kosher salt, freshly ground pepper ripe avocados, halved oz. fresh goat cheese cups mixed lettuce leaves, ribs removed if thick slices multigrain bread, toasted English hothouse cucumber, thinly sliced on a diagonal cups sprouts

SPECIAL EQUIPMENT: 2 heatproof

1-qt. glass jars P I C K L E S Bring vinegar, brown sugar,

salt, and 2 cups water to a boil in a large saucepan. Meanwhile, pack vegetables into jars. Pour brine over vegetables. Cover and chill until cool. DO AHEAD: Pickles can be made 2 weeks ahead. Keep chilled. DR ES S ING AND ASS EM BLY Whisk

buttermilk, yogurt, lemon juice, and 3 Tbsp. oil in a large bowl until smooth; season dressing with salt and pepper. Scoop avocados into a small bowl; add 1 Tbsp. oil and lightly mash. Season with salt and pepper. Mash goat cheese with remaining 2 Tbsp. oil in another small bowl until softened and spreadable; season with salt and pepper. Add lettuce to dressing and toss to coat; season with salt and pepper. Spread avocado mixture over 4 slices of bread. Arrange lettuce over and top with cucumber, sprouts, and some drained pickles. Spread remaining 4 slices of bread with goat cheese and close sandwiches.

B e Yo u r O w n S a n d w i c h B o s s “That’s not a lobster roll. A real lobster roll is...” Please, please, stop doing that. Nobody cares what a “re al” lobster roll is. I take that back—everybody in Maine probably cares, as well as some people in Rhode Island, but they’re just a bunch of Patriots fans, and since when do the rest of us care what they think? Don’t get me wrong—traditions are impor tant. But if you want an authentic lobster roll, go to C onnecticut (yeah, I said it!), and if you want a truly authentic muffuletta, go to New Orleans. But if, like me, you’re not worried about authenticity or, also like me, you just want to eat the most delicious sandwich humanly possible, then add basil to your egg salad the way your mom never did, flip off your local diner and make a grilled cheese with peak tomatoes, or tell your hippie uncle that anyone from Tallahassee to Tacoma c an make a C alifornia Veggie Sandwich as good as that place in Laurel C anyon. Then c all your uncle and apologize! After you e at that glorious sandwich, that is. —TYLER KORD, CHEF, NO. 7, AND AUTHOR, A SU P E R U P S E T T I N G C O O K B O O K A B O U T S A N DW I C H E S

CA L I FO R N I A V EG G I E SA N DW I C H

EG G SA L A D TA RT I N E S WITH MIXED HERBS P. 76

B E STO F - B OT H WO R L DS LO B ST E R RO L L P. 80

Grilled Cheese with Peak Tomatoes

4 SERVINGS Lining the toasted, buttered bun with lettuce might seem controversial, but it provides both crunch and a waterproof barrier that keeps the bread from sogging out. Trust.

4 SERVINGS Progression of a tomato sandwich: On buttered bread with salt; on bread with mayo and cheddar; seasoned and grilled with cheddar and mayo. They’re all pretty perfect, but we’ll take the advanced version, thanks.

3 ¼ ¼ ½ ½ 1

1 ¼-lb. live lobsters cup mayonnaise cup chopped celery tsp. finely grated lemon zest Tbsp. fresh lemon juice Tbsp. sliced chives, plus more for serving Kosher salt, freshly ground pepper 5 Tbsp. unsalted butter 4 New England–style split-top hot dog buns 2 green lettuce leaves, halved lengthwise

Fit a large pot with a steamer basket and pour in water to come to top of basket. Place over high heat. If desired, dispatch lobsters by using a sharp chef’s knife (and one fell swoop) to split the front section of each between the eyes. Place lobsters in pot, cover, and steam (the pot should be actively filled with steam) until shells are bright red and tails are curled, 6–8 minutes. Let sit until cool enough to handle, 12–15 minutes. Meanwhile, mix mayonnaise, celery, lemon zest, lemon juice, and 1 Tbsp. chives in a medium bowl to combine; season dressing with salt and pepper. Remove lobster meat from shells and cut into large pieces; discard shells. Melt butter in a large saucepan over medium; transfer 2 Tbsp. melted butter to a small bowl and set aside for brushing buns. Add lobster meat to remaining butter in saucepan and toss to coat. Cook, tossing occasionally, until just warmed through (it should not be hot; you don’t want it to overcook), about 4 minutes. Season with salt, then spoon lobster meat into bowl with dressing with a slotted spoon and gently toss to coat. Heat a dry large skillet over medium. Brush reserved butter over outsides of buns. Toast, buttered side down, until golden, about 3 minutes per side. Line each bun with a piece of lettuce and spoon in dressed lobster; top with more chives. DO AHEAD: Lobsters can be cooked and shelled and dressing can be made 1 day ahead. Cover and chill separately.

2 large beefsteak or other tomatoes Kosher salt, freshly ground pepper 8 slices sourdough bread or other country-style loaf ¼ cup mayonnaise 1 lb. sharp white cheddar, coarsely grated 1 small shallot, very thinly sliced Slice tomatoes as thin as possible (a serrated knife works great) and place on a wire rack set inside a rimmed baking sheet; season with salt and pepper. Let

Best in Class

sit, turning once, until they have released some of their liquid, 20–30 minutes. Heat 2 dry large skillets over low (or use 1 skillet and work in 2 batches). Spread 1 side of 4 slices with half of mayonnaise. Set slices, mayo side down, on a cutting board. Mound cheese on slices, pressing down gently to pack onto bread. Top with shallot and close sandwiches. Cook, mayo side down, pressing gently, until bottom sides are golden brown (you should barely hear any sound of sizzling as the bread hits the skillet; low and slow is key), 6–8 minutes. Spread remaining mayonnaise over top slices of bread and carefully turn sandwiches over. Cook until other side is golden brown and cheese is melted, 6–8 minutes. Transfer to a cutting board and carefully pry each sandwich open. Add a thin layer of tomatoes and close back up; slice in half.

Cal iforn ia Kin g

W h at m a ke s t h e s e f i ve s a n d w i c h e s s o s pe c i a l ? We’re gl a d that you asked…

I t ’s a l l a b o u t b a l a n c e : C r u n c hy a n d k i c k y m e e t cre amy and rich.

A Good Egg ( Sal ad )

Lob s t e r Roya l e

We simmer the eggs for 9 minutes for a justtender center, then te ar t h e m i n t o pi e c e s so t h e yo l ks s t ay l i ke s at i s f y i n g yo l ks , a n d t h e w h i t e s offer a stark contrast—a major improvement on t h e m u shy d e l i st a n d a rd .

Some say butter, s o m e s ay m ayo n n a i s e . We s ay: W hy c h o o se? A toss with melted butter i m p a r t s t h at w o n d e r f u l d e e pl y r i c h t a st e , t h e n a dip in mayo dressing adds that coveted smooth texture.

Th e Big Easy

S ay C h e e s e

T h e o l i ve s a l a d i s essential. It has the briny bite to stand up to all t h at m e at a n d c h e e s e , a n d a n o l i ve - o i l - i n d u c e d juiciness to soften the bre ad just the right amount as it sits.

I f yo u t h i n k g r i l l e d c h e e s e is good with tomato soup, wait until you try one w i t h i t s ve r y ow n l aye r of ultraripe tomatoes. Draining them of excess l i qu i d ke e ps t h e s a n d w i c h from going water y.

FOOD STYLING BY REBECCA JURKEVICH. PROP STYLING BY AMY WILSON.

Best-of-Both-Worlds Lobster Roll

GRILLED CHEESE WITH PEAK TO M ATO E S

BRING THE HEAT SUMMER’S CHILE EXPLOSION IS ABOUT MUCH MORE THAN F I V E - A L A R M N O V E LT Y . H E R E ’ S H O W TO T E A S E O U T A L L T H E N U A N C E D F L AVO R S F R E S H P E P P E R S O F F E R . G E T R E A DY : AU G U ST I S G O I N G TO B E

BY AMIEL STANEK RECIPES BY CHRIS MOROCCO PHOTOGRAPHS BY MARCUS NILSSON

A BA PRIMER

Once you get hooked on fresh chiles, you’ll want to pack them into everything you cook—like this Braised Brisket with Hot Sauce and Mixed Chiles, p. 89.

A Little Spice Is Always Nice... All things being equal, we’ll readily admit that it’s fun to burn out on nuclear wings at the bar or to sweat over an incendiary bowl of mapo dofu once in a while. The key to cooking with chiles, however, is to think of their heat not as a dare but as another essential building block of flavor, right alongside salt, acid, and fat. Rather than overpowering a dish, a perfectly calibrated prickle of spice enhances the other elements and wakes up the palate.

Soba with Green Chile Pesto 4 oz. soba (Japanese-style noodles) Kosher salt 2 Tbsp. white miso 1 Tbsp. fresh lime juice ¾ tsp. toasted sesame oil 3 serrano chiles, 2 halved and seeds removed, 1 thinly sliced 1 garlic clove, peeled 2 scallions, white and pale-green parts only, chopped 2 cups chopped basil leaves, plus torn leaves for serving 2 cups chopped cilantro 2 cups trimmed watercress Toasted sesame seeds (for serving) Cook noodles in a large pot of boiling salted water until al dente, about 5 minutes. Drain, reserving ¼ cup soba cooking liquid. Meanwhile, whisk miso, lime juice, and oil in a large bowl. Chop halved chiles, garlic, and a pinch of salt together on a cutting board, then use the side of chef’s knife to mash into a paste. Transfer to bowl with miso mixture and mix well. Add scallions, chopped basil, and cilantro and toss to combine; season pesto with salt. Add soba, watercress, and sliced chile to pesto and toss, adding reserved soba cooking liquid by the teaspoonfuls as needed, until nicely coated. Serve noodles topped with torn basil and sesame seeds. 4 servings

“At the farmers’ market, ask to sample your chiles before buying them. Each pepper has unique characteristics depending on what it’s fed. You can have a hotter or cooler pepper even on the same plant.”

—Tim Parsons, Maui chile farmer and Adoboloco Hot Sauce maker

...But to Coax Out More Flavor, Subdue the Heat

There’s so much hiding behind the fire— bright fruitiness, delicate floral notes, earthiness and funk—and prepping chiles in ways that tame their heat is the secret to unlocking their true potential. Once the peppers have been mellowed out, you can pack more of them into a dish. Here are three ways to do it:

SEED

CHAR

SOAK

The spongy white membrane with seeds attached is where most of the chile’s heat is concentrated. Slicing the peppers in half and scraping out those parts will calm down the intensity of the chile considerably.

Cooking peppers briefly over a high flame can help take their edge off. Choose your preferred method: Char chiles whole on the grill, under the broiler, or directly on a stovetop gas burner before seeding them.

Capsaicin (the compound that contributes to a chile’s heat) is alcohol soluble. For the hottest specimens, remove membranes and seeds, muddle chiles, and soak in vodka for anywhere from a few hours up to a couple of days.

KEY — MELLOW

ANAHEIM Perfect for chili. Also goes by New Mexico or Hatch.

JIMMY NARDELLO A current chef favorite. Sweet enough to eat raw.

SERRANO Feel the burn; these make jalapeños taste timid.

CAY E N N E It’s not just a powder! Use fresh for assertive heat.

CUBANELLE A.k.a. Italian frying peppers. Sauté with onions and sausage.

FRESNO Supremely versatile, our Test Kitchen’s desert-island chile.

PADRÓN A lot like shishitos, they’re great grilled.

— INCENDIARY

JALAPEÑO You’ve met before, right?

SCOTCH BONNET Handle with care. These fiery little guys are essential to jerk seasoning.

SHISHITO Quickly grill, and finish with sea salt and lemon.

AJÍ AMARILLO This fruity pepper is the key to Peruvian ceviche.

HABANERO Hot as hell but with a sweet underlying tropical bouquet.

H U N G A R I A N WAX Heat can vary widely. Try ’em pickled.

AJÍ DULCE Floral and bright. Good infused into vinegar.

CUMARI Big heat in a small package.

TASTE THE RAINBOW Gone are the days when the lonely jalapeño was the only chile in the produce aisle. Now that any supermarket worth its salt stocks a decent array of peppers, and farmers’ market stalls are flush with all kinds of crazy varietals, buying them can get a little overwhelming. Relax: We got you. Here’s a handy guide to some of our favorites and how you can use them.

Chop these Calabrian-style chiles into pasta sauce or sprinkle onto pizza.

PACK HEAT Chiles thrive under the scorching sun and start to peter out as summer wanes. But if you’re strategic, you can harness all of that flavor and spice so that it’s ready to be deployed in winter’s darkest hour. Here are five ways to save the season, from D.I.Y. dried chiles to green curry paste to a homemade hot sauce so good it’ll banish that bottle of Sriracha to the back of the pantry.

Spicy Confit Chiles

Red Chile Hot Sauce Pulse 20 red Fresno chiles, seeds removed, 8 red habanero chiles, seeds removed, 1 small garlic clove, finely grated, and 2 Tbsp. kosher salt in a food processor until very finely chopped. Transfer to a small bowl; cover and let sit 2–12 hours (this will soften the flesh, resulting in a smooth sauce when puréed, and develop the flavor). Purée chile mixture and 1 cup distilled white vinegar in a blender until smooth; season with salt. DO AHEAD:

Splash liberally on fried eggs, toss with grilled veg, or spread on a sub.

Sauce can be made 2 months ahead. Cover and chill. Makes about 1 ½ cups

Bring 16 whole medium-hot red chiles with stems (such as Fresno or jalapeño), 10 peeled garlic cloves, 1 cup olive oil or ½ cup olive and ½ cup vegetable oil, and 1 tsp. kosher salt to a gentle simmer (oil should be barely bubbling) in a small saucepan over medium. Reduce heat immediately to maintain gentle simmer and cook until chiles and garlic are tender, 1–1 ½ hours. Let cool. DO AHEAD:

Chiles can be made 2 weeks ahead. Cover and chill. Makes about 2 cups

JalapeñoPickled Peppers Whisk 2 cups unseasoned rice vinegar, ½ cup sugar, 3 Tbsp. kosher salt, and 1 ½ cups water in a large glass jar until sugar dissolves. Prick 6 Italian frying peppers and 4 Hungarian wax peppers all over with a cake tester or the point of a knife (this will help brine penetrate peppers faster). Add both peppers and 4 jalapeños, sliced into rings, to brine. Cover and chill at least 12 hours before using. DO AHEAD: Peppers can be pickled 2 weeks ahead. Keep chilled. Makes about 4 cups

Crush in a spice grinder, and voilà, custom chile flakes.

Combined with coconut milk, it’s the base for your next Thai curry.

Dried Chiles Red chiles are the best for drying. Preheat oven to 150°. Arrange chiles in a single layer on a large rimmed baking sheet and roast until thoroughly dried out (they should still be slightly pliable when warm), 12–16 hours. DO AHEAD:

Green Curry Paste

Slice and mix with cured meats for a fresher take on antipasto salad.

CH1I1L!E 9

Dried chiles can be kept indefinitely. Store airtight at room temperature.

Finely grate bottom third of 2 lemongrass stalks, tough outer layers removed, into a blender; discard remaining lemongrass. Add 8 oz. serrano chiles (12–15), seeds removed, 1 chopped large shallot, 4 peeled garlic cloves, one 3" piece ginger, peeled, thinly sliced, one 2" piece turmeric, peeled, chopped, or 1 tsp. dried turmeric, 1 kaffir lime leaf, very finely chopped (optional), 1 tsp. ground coriander, 1 tsp. ground cumin, 1 tsp. kosher salt, and 1 tsp. sugar; blend until smooth. DO AHEAD: Curry paste can be made 3 months ahead. Freeze in an airtight container. Makes about 1 cup

Bit off more than you can chew? If your mouth’s on fire, full-fat dairy is what you want—think whole milk, yogurt, or ice cream. Capsaicin isn’t water soluble, which is why drinking water never helps, but milk contains casein, a protein that bonds to the spicy compounds and carries them away.

“When you’re mincing chiles, it’s important to have a sharp knife: If you’re using a dull blade, all you’re doing is bruising the fruit, and all those juices end up on your board, not in your mouth.”

—Alex Raij, chile lover and chef-owner of NYC’s El Quinto Pino

One in ten Padróns or shishitos is actually spicy. Pepper roulette!

EAT ’EM WHOLE Some chiles don’t need to be handled with care. Wrinkly little shishitos and Padróns are bright and grassy-tasting, with just the faintest tickle of spice (well, 90 percent of the time). Blistered on the grill or in a dry cast-iron pan, drizzled with good olive oil, and sprinkled with flaky sea salt, they make for summer’s most effortless cocktail snack. And when tossed with other ingredients, they lend a bit of their irresistibly green floral flavor to everything they touch.

Charred Padrón Chiles and Squid Salad

FOOD STYLING BY CHRIS LANIER. PROP STYLING BY KAITLYN DU ROSS. ILLUSTRATIONS BY PETER ARKLE.

½ serrano chile, thinly sliced into rings 3 Tbsp. olive oil 2 Tbsp. fresh lime juice 1 tsp. fish sauce ¼ tsp. sugar Kosher salt, freshly ground pepper 2 cups Padrón chiles or shishito peppers 1 Tbsp. plus 1 tsp. vegetable oil ½ lb. squid, bodies sliced into rings, tentacles halved 1 tsp. Aleppo-style pepper 1 cup cilantro leaves with tender stems 1 cup basil leaves, torn if large Whisk serrano chile, olive oil, lime juice, fish sauce, and sugar in a small bowl to combine; season vinaigrette with salt and pepper. Very thinly slice 2 Padrón chiles into rings and add to vinaigrette. Let sit 10 minutes. Heat 1 Tbsp. vegetable oil in a large skillet over medium-high. Pat squid dry with a paper towel; sprinkle with Aleppostyle pepper and season with salt and pepper. Cook, undisturbed, until bottom side is golden brown, about 1 minute. Toss squid and continue to cook, tossing often, until cooked through, about 1 minute longer. Transfer to a medium bowl and wipe out skillet. Heat remaining 1 tsp. vegetable oil in skillet and cook remaining Padrón chiles, tossing occasionally, until blistered and browned in spots and crisp-tender, about 5 minutes. Transfer chiles to bowl with squid; add vinaigrette with sliced chiles, cilantro, and basil and toss to combine. Season with salt and pepper. 4 servings

CH1I1L!E 9

IT ALL HANGS IN THE BALANCE

How can you look at this and not crave brisket tacos?

The goal for this brisket recipe is to pack in as much chile flavor as possible. But if all you do is pile chile on chile on chile, you’ll find yourself on a bullet train to palate fatigue. That’s where the vinegar, salt, and—especially— the brown sugar come in. The sweetness rounds out the sharpness, which means that you can use more hot sauce, which, in turn, means more chile flavor. Everyone wins.

Real talk: If you’re working with chiles, you should be wearing rubber gloves. Sound funny? Well, it won’t after you accidentally touch your eyes. If going without gloves, scrub your hands with grease-cutting dish soap, which will dissolve the chile’s oils more effectively than hand soap.

Braised Brisket with Hot Sauce and Mixed Chiles 6 mild yellow or red chiles or 3 yellow or red bell peppers 4 hot yellow chiles (such as banana or Hungarian wax peppers), seeds removed 4 medium-hot red chiles (such as Fresno or jalapeño), seeds removed ¾ cup apple cider vinegar ¼ cup (packed) light brown sugar 2 Tbsp. Red Chile Hot Sauce (see recipe) or store-bought medium hot sauce, plus more for serving 1 Tbsp. vegetable oil 1 4-lb. beef brisket, preferably from the point end Kosher salt 2 tsp. freshly ground black pepper 1 large red onion, cut through root end into 6 wedges 8 garlic cloves, peeled Preheat oven to 300°. Arrange chiles on a wire rack on stovetop over a gas flame and roast, turning occasionally, until blistered and lightly charred. (Or roast one at a time using tongs, or use the broiler.) Stir vinegar, brown sugar, and 2 Tbsp. hot sauce in a small bowl; set aside. Heat oil in a large heavy pot over medium-high. Season brisket generously with salt and sprinkle with pepper; cook, fat side down, until bottom side is deep golden brown, 6–8 minutes. Turn and cook until other side is golden brown, about 4 minutes. Transfer to a rimmed baking sheet. Add onion and garlic to pot and cook, reducing heat if needed, until lightly browned, 6–8 minutes. Transfer to baking sheet with brisket. Remove pot from heat and place brisket in pot, fat side up. Pour reserved vinegar mixture over and arrange garlic and blistered chiles around. Place onion on top of chiles. Cover pot and transfer to oven. Braise until brisket is fork-tender and shreds easily, 3–3 ½ hours. Transfer brisket, onion, chiles, and garlic to a platter and let cool 15 minutes. Meanwhile, place pot over mediumhigh heat and bring braising liquid to a boil. Cook until thick and syrupy, 10–15 minutes. Taste pan sauce and season with more hot sauce and salt, if needed. Serve brisket, onion, chiles, and garlic with pan sauce drizzled over. DO AHEAD: Brisket can be braised 3 days ahead. Let cool in juices in pot; cover and chill. 6 servings

CHOCOLATE GRASSHOPPER ICE CREAM TART P. 9 3

MARASCHINO CHERRY PARFAITS P. 9 4

WITH JUST A COUPLE OF STORE-BOUGHT INGREDIENTS, THESE FUN RETRO-CHIC C H I L L E D C R E AT I O N S A R E A P R E T T Y S W E E T WAY TO C E L E B R AT E S U M M E R BY CLAIRE SAFFITZ | PHOTOGRAPHS BY MICHAEL GRAYDON + NIKOLE HERRIOTT

NEO-NEAPOLITAN BOMBE

CHOCOLATE GRASSHOPPER ICE CREAM TART

18 SERVINGS

This looks harder to make than it is, which is the whole point. 2 pints coconut ice cream (not dairy-free) 2 pints pistachio ice cream 2 pints strawberry ice cream ¾ cup freeze-dried strawberries, finely chopped ¾ cup raw pistachios, finely chopped Line a large bowl with a curved bottom (at least 12-cup capacity; the stainless steel bowl of a stand mixer is perfect) with plastic wrap, leaving generous overhang, and place in freezer. Peel away sides of containers from coconut ice cream (see sidebar, page 94). Cut ice cream into 2" pieces and place in a medium bowl. Repeat with pistachio and strawberry ice creams, placing each in a separate medium bowl. Let sit until slightly softened, about 5 minutes, then stir each with a clean wooden spoon or large rubber spatula until the consistency of thick cake batter. Remove chilled bowl from freezer. Scoop about ½ cup of each ice cream into another medium bowl and fold a couple of times with a rubber spatula to swirl together (do not overmix; you want fat, marbled ribbons). Scrape into chilled bowl and press down to mold into bowl. Repeat process until you’ve used all of the ice cream (if it starts to melt, freeze until firm, about 5 minutes, before proceeding). Smooth top, then bring plastic up and over bombe, pressing against ice cream to compact. Freeze until hard, at least 12 hours. Combine freeze-dried strawberries and pistachios in a fine-mesh sieve and shake over a bowl to remove any dust or tiny particles; set aside larger pieces for topping. Remove bombe from freezer and remove plastic from over top of bowl of ice cream. Set a small plate or cake round over bowl opening and invert bowl onto plate. Lift off bowl and peel off plastic from bombe. Sprinkle reserved strawberry-pistachio mixture over bombe, covering all exposed ice cream and pressing to adhere. Cut bombe into wedges with a hot dry knife to serve (run knife under hot water and wipe dry between slices). DO AHEAD: Bombe (without strawberrypistachio coating) can be made 1 week ahead. Keep frozen.

You’ve got to love a dessert whose name is also the adjective to use in praise of it: This bombe is bomb. So bomb in fact that it can take on just about a million variations. Here are three more combos to try:

BLACK FOREST The Ice Creams Black cherry + almond + chocolate The Coating Crumbled chocolate wafer cookies + toasted sliced almonds + cherry on top

TROPICAL DREAMSICLE The Ice Creams Vanilla + orange sherbet + raspberry sorbet The Coating Crumbled vanilla wafers + toasted unsweetened coconut flakes

T H E E LV I S The Ice Creams Chocolate + banana + peanut butter The Coating Chopped peanut butter cups + crushed banana chips + flaky sea salt

8 SERVINGS It’s crucial that this tart be frozen solid before slicing. If you are in and out of your freezer a lot, that may take longer than one day; err on the safe side!

3 Tbsp. unsweetened cocoa powder 2 Tbsp. malted milk powder, divided (optional) 1 14.3-oz. package Oreos, divided 3 Tbsp. unsalted butter, melted 2 pints green mint chip ice cream 15 Andes crème de menthe thins or 8 After Eight mint chocolate thins 4 oz. bittersweet or semisweet chocolate, chopped 1 Tbsp. light corn syrup Pinch of kosher salt ½ cup heavy cream SPECIAL EQUIPMENT: A 9" springform pan

Pulse cocoa, 1 Tbsp. malted milk powder (if using), and two-thirds of Oreos in a food processor until coarsely ground with no large pieces remaining. With motor running, gradually add butter; process, scraping sides once, until mixture resembles wet sand (do not overprocess). Press mixture very firmly into bottom and 1 ½" up sides of springform pan. Freeze until firm, 20–25 minutes. Meanwhile, peel away sides of containers from ice cream (see sidebar, page 94). Cut ice cream into 2" pieces and place in a medium bowl. Let sit until slightly softened, about 5 minutes, then stir with a wooden spoon or large rubber spatula until the consistency of thick cake batter. Break remaining Oreos into large pieces; fold into ice cream along with mints. Scrape ice cream into crust; smooth top. Freeze until hard, at least 1 day. Just before serving, place chocolate, corn syrup, salt, and remaining 1 Tbsp. malted milk powder (if using) in a medium bowl. Bring cream to a simmer in a small saucepan; pour over chocolate. Let sit until chocolate is melted, about 5 minutes; whisk until smooth. Pour over tart and spread to edges. Freeze until ganache is firm to the touch, 10–15 minutes. Cut tart into wedges with a hot dry knife to serve (run knife under hot water and wipe dry between slices). DO AHEAD: Tart (without ganache) can be made 1 week ahead. Once solid, wrap in plastic; keep frozen.

T H E N O - M E S S WAY TO S O F T E N I C E C R E A M

MARASCHINO CHERRY PARFAITS 8 SERVINGS Don’t feel like making your own maraschino? Luxardo brand, made with Marasca sour cherries, is our jarred go-to. (Skip those gross neon-red ones.) M A R AS C H I N O C H E R R I E S

3 1 ⅓ ¼ ½

lb. fresh cherries, pits removed cups sugar cup fresh lemon juice cup Luxardo maraschino liqueur or kirsch (clear cherry brandy) 1 tsp. almond extract ASS E M B LY

2 ½ cups plain whole-milk Greek yogurt 2 ½ cups sour cream ½ cup powdered sugar Pinch of kosher salt 8 vanilla meringue cookies, broken into pieces 1 lb. fresh cherries, pits removed SPECIAL EQUIPMENT: A heatproof 1-qt. jar M A R AS C H I N O C H E R R I E S Set a mesh sieve over a medium bowl. Bring cherries, sugar, lemon juice, and ⅔ cup water to a simmer in a large saucepan over medium-low heat, stirring occasionally; cook until cherries have released their juices and are softened but still intact, 20–25 minutes. Pour cherries into prepared sieve, letting juices collect in bowl. Set cherries aside. Return juices to same saucepan and bring to a simmer over medium heat. Cook until liquid is reduced to 1 ½ cups (it will be a thin syrup at this point), 15–20 minutes. Remove from heat, add reserved cherries, and stir in liqueur and almond extract. Transfer maraschino cherries to jar, cover, and chill at least 24 hours before using.

DO AHEAD: Cherries can be made 2 weeks ahead. Keep chilled. ASSE MBLY Whisk yogurt, sour cream, powdered sugar, and salt in a large bowl until smooth; fold in meringue cookies. Layer maraschino cherries, fresh cherries, and yogurt mixture into 8 glasses, dividing evenly.

CINNAMON SWIRL VANILLA ICE CREAM BARS MAKES ABOUT 24 To help prevent the ice cream bars from melting while you are cutting and dipping them, choose a vanilla ice cream that freezes solid. How can you tell? Squeeze the pint in the freezer case to test which brand feels hardest.

¼ cup heavy cream 2 tsp. ground cinnamon Kosher salt 1 ½ cups natural almond or other nut butter, divided 1 cup (packed) light brown sugar, divided 2 pints vanilla ice cream 1 cup virgin coconut oil, melted ⅔ cup chopped pretzel sticks Flaky sea salt Line an 8x8" baking pan, preferably metal, with plastic wrap, leaving generous overhang on all sides and let chill in freezer 10 minutes. Meanwhile, blend cream, cinnamon, a pinch of kosher salt, ½ cup almond butter, and ½ cup brown sugar in a blender, adding 1–2 Tbsp. water if mixture is too thick or looks broken, until smooth and thick but pourable. Peel away sides of containers from ice cream. Cut ice cream into 2" pieces and place in a medium bowl. Let sit

until slightly softened, about 5 minutes, then stir with a wooden spoon or large rubber spatula until the consistency of thick cake batter. Scrape almondbutter mixture into bowl with ice cream and fold several times with a rubber spatula to create a marbled effect (do not overmix; you want defined ribbons running through). Scrape into prepared baking pan and spread out into an even layer. Smooth top, then bring plastic up and over ice cream. Freeze until hard, about 12 hours. Line 2 rimmed baking sheets with parchment paper and place in freezer. (Freeze at least 15 minutes before using to ensure they are properly chilled.) Remove baking pan with ice cream from freezer. Use edges of plastic to unmold ice cream and place on a cutting board; peel off plastic. Use a dry hot knife (run under hot water and wipe dry between slices) to cut ice cream into a 6x4 grid to make 24 bars (if ice cream starts to soften, freeze again until firm before proceeding). Place bars on chilled baking sheet, spacing evenly; freeze until firm, 40–45 minutes. Whisk coconut oil, a pinch of kosher salt, remaining 1 cup almond butter, and remaining ½ cup brown sugar in a small bowl until smooth. Working one at a time and using a fork, dip ice cream bars into coconut-oil mixture, allowing excess to drip back into bowl, then place on remaining chilled baking sheet and immediately sprinkle with pretzels and sea salt. Return ice cream to freezer from time to time while you work if it becomes too soft. Freeze bars until ice cream and nut-butter shells are hard, at least 1 hour, before serving. DO AHEAD: Bars can be made 1 week ahead. Once frozen solid, wrap in plastic; keep frozen.

FOOD STYLING BY VICTORIA GRANOF. PROP STYLING BY ANGHARAD BAILEY. LETTERING BY NIM BEN-REUVEN. ILLUSTRATIONS BY GRACE LEE.

( 1 ) Don’t bother scooping: Slice the pint in half directly through packaging. ( 2 ) Peel away carton. Cut ice cream into pieces and transfer to a bowl to soften. ( 3 ) Stir soft ice cream with a spatula until smooth and thick.

CINNAMON SWIRL VANILLA ICE CREAM BARS

FROM P. 76

SPROUTING UP

Wispy sprouts may evoke hippy-dippy notions of healthy eating, but we love the way their clean vegetal taste and fresh crunch add contrast to everything from sandwiches to smoothies. And with all the varieties of sprouts and microgreens now available, there’s never been a better time to explore this big (little) world. — C L A I R E SA F F I TZ

C. A. RADISH

Tiny leaves, huge flavor. These slightly spicy microgreens add a little bit of bite to any salad. B. MUNG BEAN

The snappiness and mild flavor make these sturdy sprouts the ideal addition to a soup or stir-fry. C. M U STA R D D.

These tender red-leafed microgreens have a serious horseradish kick that blends well into pesto. D. B RO C C O L I

FROM P. 80

BETTER WHEN SHREDDED For a truly ooey-gooey grilled cheese sandwich, grated cheese is the way to go. Sliced takes longer to melt and has a tendency to stay solid if pieces overlap or the layers are too thick. But a tuft of freshly shredded cheese creates an even, melty layer. And, if you want to get all fancy and mix several kinds of cheeses, it’s a lot easier to blend varieties when they’ve been prepped on a box grater. Will a few pieces tumble out into the pan during cooking? Jackpot—we all know those crispy bits are the best part. — C H R I S M O RO C C O 9 6 • AU G U ST 20 1 6

Alfalfa-like in appearance, with a gentle crunch and radish-esque spice— these are just waiting to top your avocado toast. E . A L FA L FA

A California veggie sandwich wouldn’t be the same without this healthnut staple. Good for you, yes, but also delicious.

PHOTOGRAPHS BY ALEX LAU

PREP SCHOOL

FROM P. 56

JAR HEAD The only thing nerdier than our obsession with D.I.Y. fermentation? Our obsession with the jars we use to house our funky, fizzy projects. So when we got wind that the German company Weck had come out with a line of chic acacia wood lids to top its already-beautiful glass vessels, we freaked out like sneakerheads over the latest Jordans. While not suited for proper canning, the lids pop on more easily than those with the classic three-piece design, and they look great on our countertop. $3–$4 each; weckjars.com —A M I E L STA N E K

MELLOW YELLOW Ava Gene’s chef Joshua McFadden adds a spritz of lemon to so many of his dishes that he found an acid hack: Slice seed-free wedges ahead of time for easy squeezing. — C.S.

Slice off about ½" from each end of the lemon to create flat poles.

“I smash pieces of Persian cucumbers (thin-skinned, so you don’t have to peel) with some just-ripe peaches cut into wedges. Squeeze on some lime juice, sprinkle with salt and dried chile, or even hot sauce. It works weirdly well, and it’s so beautiful.” —A N DY B A R AG H A N I

Heat of the Moment On those hot summer nights when the mere thought of turning on the oven makes you break out in a sweat, here’s what BA staffers are not cooking for dinner. —BELLE CUSHING

“Watermelon. A pinch of cayenne. A drizzle of honey. A bit of sea salt. Tons of lime juice. Blend it all. Pepitas on top ’cause you’re worth it. Done and done. (PS: No one’s stopping you from adding tequila.)” — RO C H E L L E B I LOW

“Squishy hoagie roll from the deli, a generous slathering of mayo, shredded iceberg, paperthin white onion, and slabs of juicy tomato all dressed with olive oil, red wine vinegar, and salt. It’s an Italian combo without the cold cuts. Slay.”

“Smoked salmon, crème fraîche, rye crackers. It’s what I’d rather be eating anyway!”

—A M I E L STA N E K

—JULIA KRAMER

“I’ve been known to make dinner out of a quick fresh salsa (ripe August tomatoes, red onion, serrano, cilantro, lime, salt) and some tortilla chips. Pro tip: Halve the tomatoes and squeeze the seeds and jelly out from the insides so they don’t water down the salsa.” — C L A I R E SA F F I TZ

Cut in half lengthwise, then cut each half into 4 wedges.

Lay each wedge on a flat side and trim away the pith and seeds.

FROM P. 36

J ’A P P ROV E ! H O N E Y M A I D G R A H A M C R AC K E RS What Heinz is to ketchup, Honey Maid is to graham crackers. Whether they’re encasing melty chocolate and scorched marshmallow, topped with peanut butter, or just eaten on their own, the light sweetness and dissolve-in-your-mouth crunch get me every time. A graham cracker by any other name, well, just isn’t a graham cracker. —C.S. 98 • AU G U ST 2 0 1 6

FOOD STYLING BY CLAIRE SAFFITZ. ILLUSTRATIONS: BRUCE HUTCHISON (CHEESE, LEMONS); CLAIRE MCCRACKEN (SUN).

FROM P. 14

recipe index AUGUST 2016

sourcebook

R.S.V.P. pp. 10–12 BABBO 110 Waverly Pl., NYC;

212-777-0303; babbonyc.com MONEYGUN 660 W. Lake St., Chicago; 312-600-0600; moneygunchicago.com COOK LIKE A PRO pp. 14–16 AL’S PLACE 1499 Valencia St.,

San Francisco; 415-416-6136; alsplacesf.com GOLD CASH GOLD 2100 Michigan Ave., Detroit; 313-242-0770; goldcashgolddetroit.com INSA 328 Douglass St., Brooklyn; 718-855-2620; insabrooklyn.com THE DRINK pp. 26–30 BLUE BOTTLE COFFEE For locations,

Chiles looking hot, hot, hot. PP. 82–89

BEVERAGE

SOUP

Iced Coffee Shakerato p. 43

Faux Lobster Pho p. 69

BREAD

SEAFOOD Charred Padrón Chiles and Squid Salad p. 89 Harrisa-Crusted Swordfish p. 12 Mussels with Spicy Tomato Oil and Grilled Bread p. 39 MEAT Braised Brisket with Hot Sauce and Mixed Chiles p. 89 Lamb Gyros p. 67 Spicy Lamb Pizza with Parsley–Red Onion Salad p. 34 PASTA, NOODLES Soba with Green Chile Pesto p. 84 VEGETARIAN Soba with Green Chile Pesto p. 84

Grilled Gyro Flatbread p. 67

BREAKFAST Demerara Sugar Buns p. 68

SANDWICHES The BA Muffuletta p. 76 Best-of-Both-Worlds Lobster Roll p. 80 California Veggie Sandwich p. 76 Egg Salad Tartines with Mixed Herbs p. 76 Fried Fish Sandwiches with Lobster Mayo p. 67 Grilled Cheese with Peak Tomatoes p. 80

SALADS Charred Padrón Chiles and Squid Salad p. 89 The Crunchiest Vegetable Salad p. 42 Raw Beet and Cucumber Salad p. 68 Tomato Salad with Cardamom p. 68 Watermelon with Yogurt and Fried Rosemary p. 33 1 0 0 • AU G U ST 2 0 1 6

MAIN COURSES

CONDIMENTS, MISCELLANEOUS Dried Chiles p. 87 Garlicky Blender Aioli p. 43 Green Curry Paste p. 87 Jalapeño-Pickled Peppers p. 87 Pistachio-Yogurt Sauce p. 68

Quick-Pickled Chiles p. 68 Red Chile Hot Sauce p. 86 Spicy Confit Chiles p. 86 Vegetable Kimchi p. 16

DESSERTS Blondie Sundaes with Fried Walnuts and Candied Fennel p. 69 Buckwheat–Brown Butter Blondies p. 69 Chocolate Grasshopper Ice Cream Tart p. 93 Cinnamon Swirl Vanilla Ice Cream Bars p. 94 Maraschino Cherry Parfaits p. 94 Neo-Neapolitan Bombe p. 93 Ode to Halo-Halo p. 46 Peach Parfait with Salted Graham Cracker Crumble p. 36 Polenta Budino with Plum Marmellata p. 10

FOR NUTRITIONAL INFO FOR THE RECIPES IN THIS ISSUE, GO TO BONAPPETIT.COM /RECIPES

go to bluebottle.com LA COLOMBE For locations, go to lacolombe.com RIVAL BROS. 2400 Lombard St., Philadelphia; rivalbros.com SAINT FRANK 2340 Polk St., San Francisco; saintfrankcoffee.com STEADFAST 603 Taylor St., Nashville; 615-891-7424; steadfast.coffee STUMPTOWN For restaurant information, go to stumptowncoffee.com SWEATSHOP 232 Metropolitan Ave., Brooklyn; 917-960-7232; sweatshop.nyc

NAVIGATOR: VERMONT BEER RUN pp. 49–51 BURLINGTON BEER CO. 25 Omega Dr., #150, Williston; 802-863-2337; burlingtonbeercompany.com CITIZEN CIDER 316 Pine St., Burlington; 802-448-3278; citizencider.com FIDDLEHEAD BREWING CO. 6305 Shelburne Rd., Shelburne; 802-399-2994; fiddleheadbrewing.com

FOLEY BROTHERS BREWING

79 Stone Mill Dam Rd., Brandon; 802-650-0080 HILL FARMSTEAD BREWERY 403 Hill Rd., Greensboro; 802-533-7450; hillfarmstead.com HOTEL VERMONT 41 Cherry St., Burlington; 855-651-0080; hotelvt.com LOST NATION BREWING 87 Old Creamery Rd., Morrisville; 802851-8041; lostnationbrewing.com MAD TACO For restaurant locations, go to themadtaco.com MISERY LOVES CO. 46 Main St., Winooski; 802-497-3989; miserylovescovt.com THE MONKEY HOUSE 30 Main St., Winooski; 802-655-4563 PROHIBITION PIG 23 S. Main St., Waterbury; 802-244-4120; prohibitionpig.com QUEEN CITY CRAFT BREWERY

703B Pine St., Burlington; 802-540-0280; queencitybrewery.com SWITCHBACK BREWING CO.

160 Flynn Ave., Burlington; 802-651-4114; switchbackvt.com WILLEY’S TRUE VALUE HARDWARE

7 Breezy Ave., Greensboro; 802-533-2554

ZERO GRAVITY CRAFT BREWERY

716 Pine St., Burlington; 802-497-0054; zerogravitybeer.com

DOWN BY THE LAKE pp. 56–69 AVA GENE’S 3377 SE Division St.,

Portland, OR; 971-229-0571; avagenes.com MADCAPRA 317 S. Broadway, Los Angeles; 213-357-2412; madcapra.com HOLY CHARDONNAY!

pp. 70–73 TERROIR NATURAL WINE BAR 1116

Folsom St., San Francisco; 415-558-9946; terroirsf.com

BON APPÉTIT IS A REGISTERED TRADEMARK OF ADVANCE MAGAZINE PUBLISHERS INC. COPYRIGHT © 2016 CONDÉ NAST. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. PRINTED IN THE U.S.A. VOLUME 61, NO. 8. Bon Appétit (ISSN 0006-6990) is published monthly (except for a combined issue in December/January) by Condé Nast, which is a division of Advance Magazine Publishers Inc. PRINCIPAL OFFICE: 1 World Trade Center, New York, NY 10007. S. I. Newhouse, Jr., Chairman Emeritus; Charles H. Townsend, Chairman; Robert A. Sauerberg, Jr., President & Chief Executive Officer; David E. Geithner, Chief Financial Officer; Jill Bright, Chief Administrative Officer. Periodicals postage paid at New York, NY, and at additional mailing offices. Canada Post Publications Mail Agreement No. 40644503. Canadian Goods and Services Tax Registration No. 123242885-RT0001. Canada Post: Return undeliverable Canadian addresses to P.O. Box 874, Station Main, Markham, ON L3P 8L4. POSTMASTER: SEND ALL UAA TO CFS. (SEE DMM 707.4.12.5); NON-POSTAL AND MILITARY FACILITIES: SEND ADDRESS CORRECTIONS TO Bon Appétit, P.O. Box 37613, Boone, IA 50037-0613. FOR SUBSCRIPTIONS, ADDRESS CHANGES, ADJUSTMENTS, OR BACK ISSUE INQUIRIES: Please write to Bon Appétit, P.O. Box 37613, Boone, IA 50037-0613, call 800-765-9419, or e-mail subscriptions@bonappetit.com. Please give both new and old addresses as printed on most recent label. SUBSCRIBERS: If the Post Office alerts us that your magazine is undeliverable, we have no further obligation unless we receive a corrected address within one year. If during your subscription term or up to one year after the magazine becomes undeliverable, you are ever dissatisfied with your subscription, let us know. You will receive a full refund on all unmailed issues. First copy of new subscription will be mailed within eight weeks after receipt of order. Address all editorial, business, and production correspondence to Bon Appétit Magazine, 1 World Trade Center, New York, NY 10007. For reprints, please e-mail reprints@condenast.com or call Wright’s Media at 877-652-5295. For reuse permissions, please e-mail contentlicensing@condenast.com or call 800-897-8666. Visit us online at BonAppetit.com. To subscribe to other Condé Nast magazines on the World Wide Web, visit CondeNastDigital.com. Occasionally, we make our subscriber list available to carefully screened companies that offer products and services that we believe would interest our readers. If you do not want to receive these offers and/or information, please advise us at P.O. Box 37613, Boone, IA 50037-0613 or call 800-765-9419. BON APPÉTIT IS NOT RESPONSIBLE FOR THE RETURN OR LOSS OF, OR FOR DAMAGE OR ANY OTHER INJURY TO, UNSOLICITED MANUSCRIPTS, UNSOLICITED ARTWORK (INCLUDING, BUT NOT LIMITED TO, DRAWINGS, PHOTOGRAPHS, AND TRANSPARENCIES), OR ANY OTHER UNSOLICITED MATERIALS. THOSE SUBMITTING MANUSCRIPTS, PHOTOGRAPHS, ARTWORK, OR OTHER MATERIALS FOR CONSIDERATION SHOULD NOT SEND ORIGINALS, UNLESS SPECIFICALLY REQUESTED TO DO SO BY BON APPÉTIT IN WRITING. MANUSCRIPTS, PHOTOGRAPHS, AND OTHER MATERIALS SUBMITTED MUST BE ACCOMPANIED BY A SELF-ADDRESSED STAMPED ENVELOPE.

PHOTOGRAPH BY MARCUS NILSSON. FOOD STYLING BY CHRIS LANIER. PROP STYLING BY KAITLYN DU ROSS.

TRAVEL PLANNER

b.o.t .n . BACK OF THE NAPKIN

T IME OUT

“It’s a place where your kids can play while you have a meal and a drink and become an adult human again.”

JESSICA BIEL There was a time when dining out with children meant a memorable evening with Chuck E. Cheese or entrées served with a side of meltdown. “It was always one or the other,” says actress Jessica Biel, a partner in the recently opened West Hollywood restaurant Au Fudge. Biel describes her family-friendly spot as a “safe haven” where youngsters can scream their heads off—but probably won’t need to, thanks to arts and crafts, old-school video games like Zelda, on-call au pairs, and weekend classes on pie baking and Lego robotics. The dinner menu has everyone covered too, catering to palates both advanced (mussels with chorizo broth) and developing (mac and cheese, a favorite of Biel and husband Justin Timberlake’s 16-month-old son, Silas). And the build-your-own-sundae dessert is, of course, appropriate for all ages. “I go straight for the vanilla ice cream,” says Biel, who drew her ideal version for us. “Oh, and chocolate sauce. So much chocolate sauce. And a cherry on top—but just for the look.” —DAVID WA LTERS

1 0 2 • AU G U ST 2 0 1 6

PHOTOGRAPH BY ALEX LAU

FOOD STYLING BY SUE LI. PROP STYLING BY EMILY EISEN. ILLUSTRATION BY JOE WILSON.

Drawn in Los Angeles on June 2, 2016