Chatelaine - March/April 2022 by Lawrence Ambrocio

Is there such a thing as

How to get your

33 ways to make your

SUSTAINABLE BEEF?

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P 28

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MAR/APR 2022

The Green Issue A deceptively simple Indian feast, P 80.

You’ll love this easy, peas-y spring soup P 97

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Contents Volume 95, Issue #02

chatelaine.com

Mar/Apr

Good things come in minimal packaging, P 17.

What you need to know about the new age of psychedelics, P 36.

home’s emissions—and there are grants to help you switch.

Health

80 Feast on Maunika Gowardhan’s thali celebration on a platter.

88 Simply sweet 34 Notes

Four no-bake vegan treats.

The new plant-based proteins.

94 The dinner plan 36 Psychedelics today The party drugs of the past are now being used in highly promising mental health treatments.

80 Notebook 9 Agenda Books, movies and more to enjoy this month. Every one of our recipes is tested multiple times to make sure it’s delicious and foolproof.

CHECK THIS OUT We’ve added icons to indicate products from brands that are Canadian and/or owned by Black people, Indigenous people or people of colour (BIPOC). CANADIAN

BIPOC-OWNED

CHATELAINE • MARCH/APRIL 2022

Style

In every issue 6 Editor’s letter

Life

8 You tell us

42 Call of the wild

98 Humour

Meet ﬁve women working to save our bears.

Your resolutions, recycled.

52 Is there such a thing as sustainable beef? Inside the eﬀorts to make steak more appetizing for climate-anxious Canadians.

How much detergent do you really need? P 18.

58 There’s no reconciliation without truth

16 Notes

The risks and reality of telling stories about Indigenous resistance in Canada.

A new crop of skincare has raised the bar.

Food

18 How to make your clothes last longer

Easy weeknight meals.

70 Full circle A zero-waste cocktail.

33 smart ways to extend the lifespan of your wardrobe.

72 Thrill of the hunt

Home

Sheila Flaherty on the joy of catching her own food.

28 Ease off the gas

74 The main attraction

Electric heat can slash your

Delicious vegan dinners.

ON THE COVER Photography by Erik Putz; creative direction by Sun Ngo; food styling by Ashley Denton; prop styling by Madeleine Johari.

MAUREEN HALUSHAK EDITOR-IN-CHIEF

SUN NGO CREATIVE DIRECTOR

Deputy Editor, Digital GILLIAN GRACE Deputy Editor, Features ERICA LENTI Senior Editor CHANTAL BRAGANZA Senior Editor, Style and Beauty ANDRÉANNE DION Associate Editor RADIYAH CHOWDHURY CHATELAINE KITCHEN Food Content Director IRENE NGO ART Art Director STEPHANIE HAN KIM Deputy Art Director AIMEE NISHITOBA PRODUCTION In-House Photographers ERIK PUTZ, CHRISTIE VUONG Digital Colour Specialist NICOLE DUPLANTIS Production Manager JOYCELYN TRAN CONTRIBUTORS ALI AMAD, TINA ANSON MINE, RYAN BARCLAY, TED BELTON, AMBER BRACKEN, NADIA BROPHY, TAYLOR BURK, MICHAEL BYERS, LEEANDRA CIANCI, JACQUIE COMRIE, KIM CRETON, JEN CUTTS, KJ DAKIN, FLANNERY DEAN, ASHLEY DENTON, KRISTA DUNCAN, ANNA FITZPATRICK, SHEILA FLAHERTY, REBECCA GAO, TRICIA HALL, BRADLEY HAMPSON, NAOMI HANSEN, GRACE HUNTER, CARMEN JABIER, EMILY KICHLER, JOHN KRUUSI, MADELEINE JOHARI, RHEA LEIBEL, HALEY LEWIS, CRYSTAL LUXMORE, JESSICA MAZZE, NATALIE MICHIE, ZAC MILLS, TRINA MOYLES, ALETHEA NG, CAROL EUGENE PARK, SALINI PERERA, ZEAHAA REHMAN, AMANDA SCRIVER, COURTNEY SHEA, CHRISTINE SISMONDO, KRYSTIN LEIGH SMITH, AMY SYMINGTON, BRETT TRYON, H.G. WATSON, MIKE WILLIE, ASHLEY WONG, STEF WONG, VIDAL WU, CAMILLA WYNNE

ST. JOSEPH COMMUNICATIONS INC. Chairman & CEO TONY GAGLIANO Vice-Chairman JOHN GAGLIANO President & Publisher KEN HUNT

Senior Vice President, Content & Creative MARYAM SANATI

VISIT US AT CHATELAINE.COM/SERVICE

Managing Director, Consumer Revenue ALLAN YUE Managing Director, Research & Consumer Insights CLARENCE POIRIER Director, Customer Success TERRY SMITH Director, Production MARIA MENDES Vice President of Marketing and Branded Content SASHA EMMONS Vice President of Digital Solutions and Business Development JASON MAGHANOY Director, Marketing Sponsorships JESSIKA FINK SUBSCRIBER SERVICES Telephone 1-833-632-0833, 9 a.m. to 5 p.m. weekdays (ET) Website chatelaine.com/service Email service@chatelaine.com Mail Chatelaine Subscriber Services, Box 460, Station Main, Alliston, Ontario L9R 1V7 Mail preference: From time to time, other organizations ask Chatelaine magazine if they may send information about a product or service to some Chatelaine subscribers, by mail or email. If you do not wish to receive these messages, contact us in any of the ways listed here.

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letter from the editor

Also in this issue

Talking points WELCOME TO OUR fourth annual Green Issue, which is typically our most divisive issue in terms of reader feedback. I thought I’d use this space to give some context for what we hope to accomplish in the next 92 pages. Chatelaine published its first Green Issue in 2019 because we believe that taking action—whether it’s personal or collective—can help ease both our climate anxiety and our carbon emissions. Our intention, as with all of our content, is never to shame but rather to inspire and empower. You might not care to—or be able to—enact the changes we talk about in this issue, but we’d still like you to know that these options exist. A few things about me: I eat red meat. I recently threw out an embarrassing number of holey socks. And I live in a 100-year-old house that’s about as airtight as a plastic bag blowing in the wind. So please know there’s a lot of room for improvement in my own eco-footprint. But as I read my way through this issue, I left with some action items. “Ease off the gas” (page 28) inspired me to book a home energy audit. The cost is covered by a federal grant, and getting one can unlock further grants to offset some of the cost of efficiency upgrades, like new windows and doors. After reading “How to make your clothes last” on page 18, I finally learned how to darn a sock. I don’t know why I didn’t do this sooner. Finally, Naomi Hansen’s feature on sustainable beef (page 52) made me realize there’s no easy fix for anyone who enjoys eating red meat, as I do. Radically reducing my intake, while ensuring that the beef I do eat is raised in a way that supports grasslands and reduces water pollution, can help. I recently received a letter that I wanted to share with you. It came from a long-time reader named Donna. She notes that our content has changed through the years, and while she sometimes disagrees with our perspective, it keeps her thinking. That’s ultimately my goal for every issue of this magazine. Like any good friendship, we don’t always need to see eye to eye—but let’s keep the conversation going so we can learn from one another.

Hello, it’s me Consider the return of the 1950s telephone table— featuring my all-time favourite Facebook Marketplace ﬁnd (page 27).

Call of the wild Meet ﬁve women who work with bears— learning their language and advocating for their protection (page 42).

“I am furious” Read about journalist Amber Bracken’s experience being arrested while covering the Wet’suwet’en pipeline protests (page 58).

Full plate Feast on cookbook author Maunika Gowardhan’s recipes for the celebrationon-a-plate that is thali (page 80).

CHATELAINE • MARCH/APRIL 2022

HALUSHAK PHOTO, ERIK PUTZ.

Maureen Halushak @maureenhalushak letters@chatelaine.com

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you tell us

LETTERS

[ LETTER OF THE MONTH ]

Super bowl I was delighted to see the January/February 2022 cover. After a month of indulging in sweets, luxurious meals and drinks, I’m looking forward to preparing a month of mouthwatering “green” meals. However, I do love oatmeal, so this morning I prepared your champorado [“A sweet start,” January/February] and savoured this delicious breakfast bowl—topped with coconut, almonds and dried cranberries—all to myself! — Nora Thompson, Ottawa

A salad for every palate Thank you for this great issue with “30 days of delicious dinner-in-abowl salads.” Thank you also for sorting and displaying the recipes in different categories and for including plant-based options! Chatelaine has done it again—always thinking of everyone’s palate and preferences. All the best to my favourite (50 years and counting) magazine’s continued success! — Diane Lobo, Scarborough, Ont.

for-proﬁt senior care! The past two years have been eye-opening, frustrating, tragic and exhausting for families and caregivers. — Beth Dubeau, Penetanguishene, Ont.

Essential reading The article about LTC [“The long-term care toll,” January/February] is scary and excellent. Kudos to the author, Nora Loreto, for the extensive research. Every family should read this and demand the end of

Thanks for your great article on LTC facilities. Families are indeed in an unenviable position. No matter where a patient lives, the family caregiver has a heavy workload. I am approaching this chapter in my life and I’m scared—scared for me, scared for a lack

of care and scared for my daughter, who has a full-time job as well as a family and pressure to look after me at a long-term facility. The government gave help to schools, daycares, oil ﬁelds. Isn’t it time to help LTC patients? — PT, Bedford, N.S.

Kudos for CanCon Grabbed my new @Chatelaine today from the mailbox. I love this magazine and am so glad there’s a great, small team passionate about sharing Canadian content centred

around food, makers and women. Keep up the great work @MaureenHalushak. @SavvyFarmgirl

We need to clarify something . . . The founder of Victoria’s Arctic Fashion, Victoria Kakuktinniq, whose collaboration with Canada Goose we featured in Style Notes [January/ February 2022], is based in Rankin Inlet, Nunavut, not Winnipeg. Apologies!

We love hearing your feedback on the magazine—please keep it coming. Send your thoughts to letters@chatelaine.com.

CHATELAINE • MARCH/APRIL 2022

CHAMPORADO PHOTO: PRODUCED BY STEPHANIE HAN KIM; PHOTO, ERIK PUTZ; FOOD STYLING, ASHLEY DENTON; PROP STYLING, MADELEINE JOHARI. “THE LONG-TERM CARE TOLL” ILLUSTRATION, SÉBASTIEN THIBAULT.

[ MORE KIND WORDS ]

7 THINGS TO DO RIGHT NOW

1 [ I N T H E S P OT L I G H T ]

Watch and learn from a legend

Photograph by TED BELTON

ALANIS OBOMSAWIN is one of the most prolific directors in Canada—but her contributions far exceed filmmaking. The 89-year-old Abenaki woman has made more than 50 films spotlighting how systems have failed, and continue to fail, Indigenous peoples. Her work has given them the chance to share their stories and generate discussions that inspire change. Obomsawin’s filmography includes Kanehsatake: 270 Years of Resistance, a landmark documentary released in 1993 that chronicles the tense 78-day standoff between the Kanien’kéha:ka (Mohawk) and law enforcement during the Oka Crisis. Her 1984 film, Incident at Restigouche, looks at the Quebec provincial police’s raid on the Listuguj reserve as part of their efforts to impose fishing restrictions on the Mi’kmaq. Eleven of Obomsawin’s films, including the two mentioned above, are now available to stream on APTN Lumi, the Indigenous network’s streaming service. — Haley Lewis

MARCH/APRIL 2022 • CHATELAINE

agenda 2

[ WELL VERSED ]

“I want to go home, but home is the mouth of a shark. Home is the barrel of a gun. No one would leave home unless home chased you to the shore. No one would leave home until home is a voice in your ear saying—leave, run, now. I don’t know what I’ve become.” Warsan Shire’s ﬁrst full-length poetry collection comes on the heels of a celebrated career. The Somali British poet, best known internationally as the wordsmith on Beyoncé’s Lemonade and Black Is King, draws from her life to illustrate the experiences of Black women and girls, refugees and immigrants, mothers and daughters. With careful nuance and striking imagery, Shire expertly weaves poems of pain and loss with memory, love and resilience. Bless the Daughter Raised by a Voice in her Head, out March 1. — Radiyah Chowdhury

1 2

4 [ I N S T I TC H E S ]

LEARN A RELAXING (AND USEFUL) HOBBY Keep your hands busy with these four virtual crafting courses 1. Instructables Embroidery Class In this 10-module course, craft instructor Jessy Ratﬁnk provides a guide to getting started in the world of hand embroidery. From the tools you’ll need for basic stitching to creating and transferring patterns onto fabric, each lesson includes detailed written instructions and progress photos for reference. instructables.com/ Embroidery-Class/

[ GET WILD ]

Build a whole new world 10

Challenge yourself and design a harmonious landscape with Cascadia, a new puzzle-y tilelaying game. Players score points by pairing wildlife tokens with habitat tiles to create a diverse environment. The game’s gorgeous artwork showcases iconic species of the Paciﬁc Northwest, including grizzly bears and chinook salmon. — Grace Hunter

CHATELAINE • MARCH/APRIL 2022

2. Yarnspirations Knit-along The Canadian yarn retailer is a one-stop shop for all things knitting, offering step-by-step demonstrations and free patterns on its website. In March, you’ll ﬁnd a tutorial series that takes viewers through the process of making a cable-knit sweater in four live video instalments, delivered weekly and available on demand. yarnspirations.com/patons-knitalong-cardigan-lessons-page

3. The Beading Circle This biweekly gathering is a safe space where Indigenous and nonIndigenous people can connect through the art of beadwork. Zoom sessions are led by Indigenous artists and will take place March 9, March 23, April 6 and April 20. Beading circles held speciﬁcally for 2SLGBTQ+ community members take place on the ﬁrst Thursday of each month. instagram.com/thebeadingcircle/ 4. The Crochet Crowd Studio With tons of tutorials available on its YouTube channel, this Nova Scotia–based crochet studio offers lessons on how to make balaclavas, bags, blankets and so much more. There’s plenty of info for those looking to learn about the basic tools, stitches and techniques of this craft; most of the videos are beginner-friendly and come with free downloadable patterns. youtube.com/c/mikeyssmail/videos — Natalie Michie

CASCADIA BOARD GAME PHOTO, KEVIN RUSS. INSTRUCTABLES PHOTO, JESSY RATFINK. YARNSPIRATIONS PHOTO, YARNSPIRATIONS. BEADING CIRCLE PHOTO, MEL COMPTON. CROCHET CROWD PHOTO, CROCHET CROWD.

Celebrate survival with this former poet laureate

agenda 5

my experience [with Ghomeshi] is also about the relationship to memory and how it works after trauma. It’s also about why so many people don’t tell their stories—that instinct not to speak, which I think is profoundly misunderstood.

[ DA N G E R ZO N E ]

Embrace the difficult things with Sarah Polley Written by COURTNEY SHEA

IN HER NEW memoir, Canadian actor, director and screenwriter Sarah Polley isn’t avoiding the tough stuﬀ. The collection of essays spans her traumatic experiences as a child star through an almost-career-ending brain injury in 2015. It also includes details about her experience of being sexually assaulted by Jian Ghomeshi as a teen—something she has never spoken about publicly before. Can you explain the title Run Towards the Danger?

During my concussion recovery, I went to a lot of diﬀerent doctors and specialists, and the advice was always “Listen to your body,” [and] “Respect your limits.” For more than three years, I took discomfort as a reason to turn away. And then I heard about a doctor in Pittsburgh with a diﬀerent approach. He said my brain had become less adept at the things I was avoiding. I began the challenging and painful process of doing the things that hurt the most and, slowly,

they didn’t hurt anymore. The idea of moving towards the difﬁcult things rather than away started to bleed out into the rest of my life, including writing this book. In one of your essays, you reveal you were sexually assaulted by Jian Ghomeshi when you were 15 years old. Why did you decide to share this experience now? The whole book is about memory and how the past informs our present and vice versa, and

I was sad to read about the terrible time you had making Road to Avonlea. Well, it wouldn’t be any better if nobody had loved the show and I was miserable. These were formative years, and I felt trapped doing a job in a predominantly adult environment under a lot of pressure when I just wanted to be a kid. I will say writing these essays was a way of working through diﬃcult times. I’m really happy with my life as it stands, so it’s hard to look back with regret.

Run Towards the Danger, out March 1.

POLLEY PHOTO, © LUC MONTPELLIER.

Jameela Green Ruins Everything by Zarqa Nawaz Wanting success as a writer, Jameela Green seeks guidance from her local mosque’s new imam. In exchange, Green promises to do a good deed. But after a series of bizarre events, the imam disappears. Assuming he’s been taken by the CIA, she decides to rescue him. This black comedy explores the price of success and one woman’s search for meaning. March 8. Looking for Jane by Heather Marshall When Angela Creighton ﬁnds a letter detailing a life-shattering confession, the last thing she expects to uncover is the story of an underground abortion network from the 1970s known by its whispered code name: Jane. This debut novel follows the lives of three women in Toronto, separated by a few decades and connected by a story of survival and love. March 1.

[ S H E L F LOV E ]

COZY UP WITH A GOOD BOOK— OR FIVE Enthralling reads, all written by Canadian women

Daughters of the Deer by Danielle Daniel It’s 1675. Seventeen-year-old Jeanne Marie, born to an Algonquin mother of the Deer Clan and a white French father, is caught between two cultures linked by a long history of violence against First Nations people. Her worlds collide when Jeanne falls for a girl named Josephine, forcing her to claim her future and identity, even at the risk of her father’s anger. March 8.

My Ackee Tree by Suzanne Barr with Suzanne Hancock Suzanne Barr never set out to become a chef. But after her mother was diagnosed with cancer, Barr learned to cook in order to take care of her. She recounts her experiences in the culinary world as a Black woman, battling stereotypes and challenging the status quo. With honesty and vulnerability, she shares her story of ﬁnding ways to keep the things she loves. April 5. Uncertain Kin by Janice Lynn Mather In this collection of 18 stories from a Governor General’s Award finalist, women and girls in the Bahamas search for stability during times of turmoil. In their own lives, they seek identity and belonging while struggling with the complexities of family, longing, grief, betrayal, coming of age and the realities of being a woman. April 19. — Carol Eugene Park

MARCH/APRIL 2022 • CHATELAINE

agenda

1. TURNING RED The year is 2002. Meilin “Mei” Lee is a Chinese-Canadian tween from Toronto with a hair-raising ancestral secret: She turns into a giant red panda whenever she experiences strong emotions. Watch Mei step out of her comfort zone and learn to accept herself, fur and all, in this Disney and Pixar animation. Premieres on Disney+ March 11.

7 [ F E AT U R E F I L M S ]

It’s been a hard couple of years, we know. Find an escape in these five exciting new movies 2. ALINE Describing itself as “fiction freely inspired from the life of Celine Dion,” this film follows Aline Dieu as she evolves from a local singing sensation to an international superstar—and falls in love with and eventually marries her much older manager. Watch French comedian Valérie Lemercier play Celine through ages five to 50 (!!!) in a version of Dion’s—or Dieu’s—life that, while not necessarily accurate, is certainly entertaining. Streaming on Club Illico now.

4. LUCY AND DESI Get an intimate look at the couple who reinvented comedy with their iconic 1950s sitcom, I Love Lucy. Directed by Amy Poehler, Lucy and Desi follows Lucille Ball and her on- and off-screen partner, Desi Arnaz. It includes interviews from their children and Ball’s two protégés: Bette Midler and Carol Burnett. Snippets of the family’s home videos and audiotapes give viewers an in-depth look into the professional highs that came at the cost of the couple’s personal lows. Premieres on Prime Video March 4.

CHATELAINE • MARCH/APRIL 2022

3. EVERYTHING EVERYWHERE ALL AT ONCE Though struggling to stay aﬂoat, Evelyn Wang (played by Michelle Yeoh) is a seemingly ordinary Chinese-American woman—until she’s not. Existing among multiple universes, she must learn how to access the emotions and abilities of all the alternate Evelyns to defeat an evil force spreading across them. Come for an intriguing interpretation of the multiverse concept, and stay to see Yeoh kick ass. In theatres March 25.

5. DOWNTON ABBEY: A NEW ERA All your favourite characters from the British TV series—and its sequel ﬁlm—return to the big screen. Picking up from where the last ﬁlm left off, A New Era follows the Crawleys as they gather to celebrate Tom Branson and Lucy Smith’s wedding. While visiting a villa in the south of France that the Dowager Countess of Grantham received from a past lover, they must all prepare for a new era: the 1930s. In theatres May 20. — Zeahaa Rehman

TURNING RED PHOTO, COURTESY OF THE WALT DISNEY COMPANY CANADA. ALINE, LUCY AND DESI, DOWNTON ABBEY: A NEW ERA PHOTOS, EPK.TV. EVERYTHING EVERYWHERE ALL AT ONCE PHOTO, COURTESY OF ELEVATION PICTURES.

Become one with the screen

Recycle through the DivaRecycles Program

visit divacup.com to learn more

This watch is powered by solar energy. $325, solioswatches.ca. CLEVER HACKS TO MAKE YOUR CLOTHES LAST LONGER

TEXT, H.G. WATSON. MAIN PHOTO, ERIK PUTZ. HAIR AND MAKEUP, KIM CRETON/PLUTINO GROUP. PRODUCED BY ANDRÉANNE DION AND STEPHANIE HAN KIM. SHIRT, KOTN.COM. SHOES, CONVERSE.CA.

page 18

[ H AV E A F I T ]

Jean machine Denim is one of the worst culprits when it comes to fashion’s environmental impact. Case in point: It takes about 7,500 litres of water to make a single pair of jeans. Buying them second-hand is kinder to the planet—but you can’t always find the right fit. Enter Danielle Hodges, founder of Sequel. In her Hamilton, Ont., studio, she has been custom-fitting vintage jeans to her clients’ bodies from her stock of almost 2,000 pre-loved options—including plus sizes—since 2019. Alterations vary from size adjustments to making a whole new silhouette. In-person and virtual fittings are available, and you can also bring in your own pieces for tailoring. Custom jeans, from $200, sequeljeans.com. MARCH/APRIL 2022 • CHATELAINE

style

NOTES

Hit the bar

No sheet Love presoaked face and eye masks but hate the waste? Here’s an eco-friendlier alternative

CHATELAINE • MARCH/APRIL 2022

This set of reusable masks by Toronto-based skincare brand Province Apothecary is meant to be used with your favourite creams and serums, which is not only cheaper in the long run but also keeps single-use sheet masks and patches (which come packaged in plastic and often contain non-compostable synthetic materials) from ending up in the trash. Made from silicone, they seal in active ingredients close to the skin to maximize absorption. Apply a small amount of product to the area you’re treating, pop on the sheet mask or eye patches (or both at once—you deserve it!) and chill out for up to 30 minutes. After use, wash with a gentle soap, let them air-dry and store in their pouch until next time. Reusable Silicone Sheet Mask Set for Face and Eyes, $36, provinceapothecary.com.

TEXT, ANDRÉANNE DION. MAIN PHOTO, ERIK PUTZ. PROP STYLING, TRICIA HALL. PRODUCED BY STEPHANIE HAN KIM.

Just nine percent of all plastic gets recycled, which means that nearly all of the jars and bottles that clutter our countertops will eventually end up in the landﬁll. The good news? A new crop of minimally packaged skincare products are making it easier to embrace sustainability

style

FIRST, THE OLD-FASHIONED BAR OF SOAP—which fell out of favour in the ’80s—got a glow up with lush scents and gentle, skin-loving ingredients. Then, sudsy shampoo pucks started popping up everywhere, most recently in drugstore aisles. And now, it’s skincare’s turn. Loaded with the same ingredients as your go-to products, solid skincare bars are activated with body heat and friction to melt into the skin, providing the same satisfying experience as creams and lotions. The formulas are highly concentrated and sold “naked” or in compostable packaging, use up less water during production, take up less space during transport and—in most cases—do away with plastic waste completely. And they go a long way, too: A single bar lasts, on average, three to four months with daily use.

NOTES

Beauty talk READERS SHARE THEIR FEEDBACK ON OUR FAVOURITE NEW(-ISH) PRODUCTS

Glow Recipe Plum Plump Hyaluronic Cream, $52, or $44 for the reﬁll, sephora.com.

SERUM Formulated with moistureboosting squalane and jojoba oil, soothing licorice extract and brightening vitamin C, this pint-sized bar of solid serum feels like water but packs a serious hydration punch. Dew Mighty Bloom Jelly Serum Bar, $59 each, dewmighty.com.

CLEANSER This packaging-free cleansing balm contains cocoa butter, jojoba oil and illipe butter to melt off makeup and wash away excess oil without stripping the skin. Lush Sleepy Face Naked Cleansing Balm, $14, lush.ca.

MOISTURIZER A great pick for dry and sensitive skin types, this moisturizing stick contains hyaluronic acid, kokum butter and babassu oil. Swipe on directly from the paper tube for a mess-free application. Ethique The Perfector Solid Face Cream, $41, ethique.com.

SUNSCREEN Available unscented or in two delicious fragrances—tropical and orange blossom—Attitude’s reef-friendly SPF 30 sunscreen stick is packaged in a biodegradable push-up paper tube. Attitude Mineral Sunscreen Stick, $20 each, attitudeliving.com.

“Though I haven’t noticed the promised plumpness, this cream does what it is supposed to do and keeps my skin hydrated. The texture is thick, but it goes on easily and forms a protective layer that’s great for cold days.” — Rina, 43, Toronto

MOB Beauty Refillable Volumizing Mascara, $38, or $32 for the refill, mobbeauty.com. “This mascara stays in place all day—no flakes or smudges. I have short lashes, and I’m pleased with the volume and length it adds. I’m fussy about brush size, but this one isn’t too small or too big, which makes application easy.” — Fallon, 36, Halifax

GREEN(ER) WASHING Synthetic fabrics like polyester and nylon shed tiny plastic fibres with every wash, which pollute waterways and harm wildlife and microorganisms, and eventually make their way into the food chain. The Guppyfriend is a wash bag designed to catch those pesky microplastic fibres so they can be collected and thrown out, keeping them out of the ocean. Proven to reduce microfibre shedding by 54 percent, it’s an easy swap: Just fill up two-thirds of the bag with synthetic-blend clothing, and use more than one bag per load if necessary. Guppyfriend Washing Bag, $44, guppyfriend.us.

Everist Waterless Body Wash Concentrate, $28, helloeverist.com. “I love the fresh fragrance and how nicely this sudses up when in contact with water. The recommended one-inch strip is plenty! My skin feels nice and hydrated, and the eco-friendly packaging is a bonus.” — Meenu, 49, Calgary

Want to join our roster of beauty testers? Email us at style@chatelaine.com.

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FASHION FIX

Written by H.G. WATSON Embroidery illustrations by ASHLEY WONG Produced by ANDRÉANNE DION and STEPHANIE HAN KIM

CHATELAINE • MARCH/APRIL 2022

Many of us are trying to shop less these days, and ensure the clothes we do buy are made for the long haul. But what about the stuﬀ we already own? Whether it’s fast fashion, slow fashion or somewhere in between, here’s what you can do to stretch out your clothing’s lifespan

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FASHION FIX

S H O P YO U R C LO S E T

You don’t need to hit the mall to put together a whole new outﬁt—there’s likely plenty of untapped potential hanging in your closet

MAIN AND IN THE WASH EMBROIDERY PHOTOS, ERIK PUTZ. SHOP YOUR CLOSET ILLUSTRATIONS, STEPHANIE HAN KIM.

Take stock of what you have

Fix what’s damaged

First, make sure you can see every single thing you own—you’ll probably be surprised by what you find. “So many people have the components of a great closet; they just aren’t taking the time to get to know their clothes,” says Alyssa Beltempo, a slow-fashion influencer and sustainable stylist from Ottawa. Then, figure out your personal style. “Set aside all of the items you wear often and identify what it is you like about them,” she recommends.

Socks can be darned. Rips can be patched. Even a dreaded jean-crotch blowout can be mended. “Just because there’s a little hole in something doesn’t warrant it going into the garbage,” says Beverly Gan, the founder of the House of Sew, a studio that offers sewing lessons in Edmonton. Sewing is much less intimidating than it may seem. “It just requires a lot of patience,” she says.

Tweak and tailor It’s the little touches that really bring an outﬁt together. “Roll the sleeve, tuck your shirt in, add a belt, give it a little lint roll,” suggests Beltempo. If you’re unsure about the ﬁt of an item, chances are it will end up gathering dust at the back of your closet. But small alterations, like hemming or taking in the waist, can make a world of difference. Beltempo recommends striking up a relationship with a local seamstress or tailor: “The more they get to know your style, the more suggestions they’ll be able to make.”

Declutter with intention Instead of doing a huge purge once a year, keep track of what you’re wearing as you go and start a “maybe” section in your closet for pieces you aren’t sure about. “After a couple of months, try styling each ‘maybe’ item with your go-tos. If it’s still a no, donate, sell or swap it,” says Beltempo. Closet organization apps, like Stylebook or YourCloset, can be useful to generate new outﬁt ideas from your existing wardrobe, and to keep track of how often you wear each piece.

In the wash A gentler touch is the ﬁrst step toward giving your garments a longer life

Wash it less “One of the things that wears clothes out the fastest is the abrasion from the washing machine, where clothes rub against one another,” says Patric Richardson, a laundry expert and author of Laundry Love: Finding Joy in a Common Chore. The truth is that not everything needs to be washed after every single wear. Jacqueline Sava, an avid sewer and the founder of Soak Wash, an ecofriendly line of laundry soap made in Canada, agrees. That sweater you wore once with a T-shirt underneath? It has plenty of wears left. A T-shirt is ﬁne for another wear if you’ve had a particularly chill day. Levi’s CEO Chip Bergh famously never washes his jeans and only spot cleans them as needed to prevent them from fading and losing their shape. Skipping laundry day isn’t just great for your clothes, but also for the environment. The agitation of the wash cycle sheds microplastics (from synthetic fabrics like nylon and polyester), which then enter the ecosystem through waste water and end up in our food chain.

Hold the suds According to Richardson, the most common mistake people make is using too much detergent, which builds up on clothing over time and shortens its lifespan without leaving it any cleaner. He says you actually only need two tablespoons for a full load—something Big Laundry doesn’t want you to know. “Regular allpurpose detergents are meant to be effective on hockey uniforms and work shirts,” he explains. Most people don’t need their formulas to work that hard. “Use something gentler for all of your clothes. If you need something more aggressive, you can adjust from there,” he adds, noting that adding baking soda to a delicate detergent is often enough to neutralize odours. Not ready to quit your heavy-duty suds quite yet? Sava says a delicate detergent (like the one from her own brand) is ideal to refresh clothing that’s only been lightly worn. →

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FASHION FIX

Handle with care Learning to read carelabel instructions is crucial, especially for anything with lace, embroidery or sequins. (See our handy chart, right, for more info.) “If you’re unsure, wash it by hand in a sink or basin, and skip the dryer,” recommends Sava. Richardson swears by mesh wash bags, which act as buffers to prevent friction and keep clothing from becoming tangled. Pro tip: Only put one item into each bag, and use the smallest size available to prevent rubbing.

Keep your cool Heat wears down ﬁbres over time, so avoid hot water and hang things to dry whenever possible. Not using the tumble dryer is also great for the planet: Each load in a vented dryer creates about 2.4 kilograms of carbon emissions. When using the dryer, keep an eye on your load. Dry fabric rubs against itself as it tumbles, causing damage. “The trick is to never overdry,” says Richardson. “If you’re going to put things in the dryer, open the door and pull out what’s dry every few minutes.”

Have a ball Dryer balls are a gentler alternative to dryer sheets, which work by coating clothing in a softening agent that compromises the breathability and wicking properties of the fabric. They’re also cheaper and help clothes dry faster. To get that

fresh-out-of-the-dryer scent, Richardson recommends adding a couple of drops of essential oil to wool balls prior to drying.

Get the hang of it To keep the weight of the water from stretching out heavy fabrics as they air-dry, Richardson recommends using the express cycle with a fast spin to wring out as much liquid as possible from clothes. Then lay them to dry over the top of a drying rack. If that’s not an option or if you’re handwashing, lay a few towels down and place the garment on top to dry ﬂat. This also works for anything that might lose its shape as it dries. “You don’t want the weight of the water to pull on the garment,” says Sava. When putting wet clothes on hangers, opt for thicker wooden or padded ones over wire, as they won’t warp the fabric. (FYI, knits should never be dried on hangers.)

F O L LO W T H E INSTRUCTIONS Most often located on the left inside seam, a garment’s care label provides information on how to wash, bleach, dry and iron it for best results. Here’s a primer on what the most common symbols mean Washing Machine wash

Do not wash

Hand wash

Bleach

Non-chlorine bleach

Do not bleach

Dry clean

Do not dry clean

Drying Tumble dry

Do not tumble dry

No heat

Perm press

Delicate

Hang to dry

Dry ﬂat

Do not wring

Hit refresh It’s normal for wellworn clothing to pill and fade. Clothes, particularly knits, tend to pill where friction occurs and breaks down ﬁbres, like in the armpits, over the elbows and on the stomach. To smooth out pilled pieces, invest in a fabric shaver, or use a pumice stone, which is gentler and Richardson’s go-to. If an item is so faded that it’s been relegated to the back of your closet, it’s also worth considering dyeing it a bold new colour.

CHATELAINE • MARCH/APRIL 2022

Ironing Iron

Do not iron or press

Do not steam

Heat settings Cool

Warm

Hot

FOLLOW THE INSTRUCTIONS ILLUSTRATIONS, STEPHANIE HAN KIM.

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FASHION FIX

Artistic repairs Instead of hiding stitches and patches, let them steal the show and turn torn and threadbare clothing into one-of-a-kind works of art Inspired by sashiko, a Japanese tradition of embroidering clothing for decorative and functional purposes, visible repairs are a great way to breathe new life—and style—into well-loved garments. “It shows the history of the piece,” says Arounna Khounnoraj, the co-founder of Torontobased textile studio and shop Bookhou and author of the book Visible Mending. “It’s a badge of honour—you think, ‘Here’s someone who really cares about keeping things out of the landfill.’ ” You can fix a hole by stitching your own design, or cover ripped jeans with patches. (Sewing stores and Etsy are great places to shop for those.) Khounnoraj’s book is filled with illustrated step-by-step instructions and fun DIY project ideas. Visible Mending by Arounna Khounnoraj, $33, chapters.indigo.ca.

Interested in visible mending but don’t know where to start? A quick online search will pull up lots of free resources. Khounnoraj suggests starting with YouTube or her own Instagram, @bookhou, where she shares how-to videos.

ARTISTIC REPAIRS PHOTO, COURTESY OF AROUNNA KHOUNNORAJ.

Shop smarter No matter how gentle you are, your clothes will need to be replaced eventually. Here’s how to build a wardrobe full of staples you’ll wear again and again for years to come

Find what’s missing

Consider your reality

Bet on quality

Buy second-hand

Before heading to the store, slow-fashion inﬂuencer Alyssa Beltempo says it’s important to identify the holes in your wardrobe, rather than purchasing more of what you already have. Then, create a shopping list with what you actually need, but also what you want. “It’s okay to want things; it’s not a bad thing!” she notes. Longevity is also important: For trendier pieces, ask yourself whether it’s something you love enough to commit to wearing once everyone else moves on.

One common mistake is to make purchase decisions based on how a piece looks alone, rather than how it works with what you already own and how practical it is for your lifestyle. Beltempo recommends visualizing how the item might help stretch the wear of pieces already hanging in your closet. “Ask yourself, ‘Can I create at least three to five new outfits with that one piece?’ ” she says. Budget is also crucial, and it’s worth saving up to buy items that reflect your style and values.

The ﬁrst thing Beltempo looks at is fabric. Natural ﬁbres, like cotton, linen and wool, are ideal, but fabric blends are more common. Beltempo suggests looking for a ratio of 75 percent or higher of one material in the overall blend for higher quality. Examine the garment’s construction: Does it feel sturdy? Are the pockets, zippers and buttons reinforced? Is the hardware solid? Are the inside seams neat? Those are all signs of a good-quality garment that will stand the test of time.

Online resale platforms, including Facebook Marketplace, Depop and Poshmark, are great resources for ﬁnding stylish pre-loved pieces. Unlike thrift stores, they let you ﬁlter by size and style. “Take advantage of the search functions to narrow it down to the colour, the fabric and anything else you’re looking for,” says Beltempo. She also recommends sticking to your shopping list: “It’s easy to end up overshopping, and overconsumption is still overconsumption even if it’s second-hand.”

MARCH/APRIL 2022 • CHATELAINE

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FASHION FIX

Four virtual clothing workshops

Textile Museum of Canada

Zen Stitching

The Sewing Junction

Library classes

Textile artist Kate Ward runs Sashiko Stitch Club, where participants learn how to make 12 different embroidery patterns over the course of a year.

This Toronto-based studio hosts online workshops that cover everything from basic alterations and repairs to advanced projects, for a fee.

Many libraries across Canada offer on-site access to sewing machines and other tools, like fabric cutters, as well as classes on how to use them.

As part of its Sustainable Textile Teach-In program, the museum offers free videos that go over the basics of mending and sewing.

Mend and alter your favourite pieces from the comfort of your couch

TO O L S O F T H E T R A D E Stock your sewing kit with these essentials for easy at-home repairs

1. Dressmaking pins These will hold fabric in place while you sew.

5. Neutral thread A basic hue will work with a wide variety of fabrics. Small amounts of wool also come in handy to mend knits.

7 4

3. Measuring tape A foldable one will ﬁt easily in your kit.

6. Sewing needles Stock up on several sizes for different weights of fabric. Darning needles are also great for knitwear and socks.

6 4. Seam ripper This small tool will take apart seams without damaging fabric.

CHATELAINE • MARCH/APRIL 2022

7. Fray Check This liquid seam sealant stops fabric from fraying.

FOUR CLOTHING WORKSHOPS ACROSS CANADA AND TOOLS OF THE TRADE PHOTOS, ERIK PUTZ. TOOLS OF THE TRADE PROP STYLING, TRICIA HALL.

3 2. Snips Use these small, sharp scissors to cut thread.

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FASHION FIX

In stitches With these three hand stitches, you can ﬁx almost anything yourself— no sewing machine needed

What’s next?

1 WHIP STITCH This is a go-to for ﬁxing seams or sewing two pieces of fabric together. Pass the needle through both pieces of fabric, and then loop the thread over the edge of the fabric.

When a garment reaches the end of its life and can no longer be mended, it’s time to get creative. Irina McKenzie, the founder of Fabcycle, a Vancouver-based social enterprise that collects fabric to divert it from landﬁlls, shares some inspiration on what to do next Make something

BASIC STITCHES AND WHAT’S NEXT PHOTOS, ERIK PUTZ.

RUNNING STITCH Also known as a straight stitch, you do this by running the needle and thread through the fabric at regular intervals. It’s especially great for hemming.

3 BACK STITCH You can reinforce your sewing simply by doubling back over the initial stitch, hence the name.

If you’re crafty or know someone who is, old clothing makes excellent ﬁlling for things like pillows, footstools and pet beds. McKenzie also suggests offering up leftover clothing to other makers on Facebook Marketplace and Buy Nothing groups.

Bring back the rag Cut up old clothes made of absorbent fabrics, like cotton, into cleaning rags. Bonus: You’ll save on paper towels and microﬁbre cloths.

Find alternative donation sites Animal shelters often take towels, blankets and fur to help care for their rescues. Some schools and daycares also use fabric scraps for arts and crafts. “Phone your municipality’s waste management hotline for a list of organizations that reuse textiles in your community,” says McKenzie.

Scrap it McKenzie’s top tip: Never put fabric in the trash (not even holey socks)— it generates greenhouse gases as it decomposes and can leach harmful dyes and chemicals into the soil. Instead, bring clothing that’s beyond use to a donation bin (not a thrift store), where it will be sorted and, if it has value, sold to be shredded and reused.

MARCH/APRIL 2022 • CHATELAINE

CHATELAINE SHOPS TSC Make it to the ﬁnish line of this long winter with these chic items, all hand-picked by our Chatelaine editors. Find them at tsc.ca, where we’re celebrating 35 years of helping customers make conscious shopping choices.

GO WITH THE FLOW } v À > ÕÌwÌ Ì >Ì½Ã > Ü>ÞÃ Ài>`Þ v À > >`Ûi ÌÕÀi¶ / iÃi Àii Ü Ãi«>À>ÌiÃpL Ì >`i vÀ ÀiVÞV i` « ÞiÃÌiÀp>Ài Ì i «iÀviVÌ wÌ° Free Flow Lifestyle Crewneck Sports Bra Ìi {n{ ÇÎÎ] fÈx Free Flow Lifestyle Highwaist Full Length Legging Ìi {n{ ÇÎ{] f ä

(Counter clockwise from top) NO MORE BAD HAIR DAYS The sustainable, vegan and eco-friendly LAKMÉ collection has a solution to all of your hair woes, from protecting your colour to amplifying volume and body. LAKMÉ Teknia Color Stay Shampoo Item# 630-965, $23.95 LAKMÉ Teknia Body Maker Mist Item# 630-964, $34.95 LAKMÉ Teknia Deep Care Treatment Item# 630-970, $36.95 NEVER TOO HOT, NEVER TOO COLD Refresh dry winter air with this dual function Õ ` wiÀ] Ü V `i ÛiÀÃ Õ v À Õ ` wV>Ì in winter, and high-velocity air in the summer. &[UQP *WOKFKƂGT Item# 559-671, $599.99

HEY GOOGLE, LET’S TURN UP THE HEAT Conserve energy and control your home’s temperature remotely with this smart thermostat. Google Nest Thermostat Item# 646-278, $179.99

SPRING SPARKLE The Evera Diamonds collection— exclusive to TSC—features lab grown, iÌ V> > ` V y VÌ vÀii ÃÌ iÃ° EVERA Diamonds 14K Gold 1.00ctw Diamond Paperclip Bracelet Item# 208-803, from $2,199.99 Shop the entire Evera line at tsc.ca

Shop tsc.ca

Invisible pad. All the protection you need.

The only bladder leak pad with

layers

that protect differently.

A cute vintage tray for your keys. $18, etsy.com/ shop/cabotandcole. HOW TO EASE YOUR HOME OFF GAS

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Chatelaine editor Maureen Halushak found her Formica telephone table on Facebook

TEXT, MAUREEN HALUSHAK. PHOTO, ERIK PUTZ. PROP AND DROP, KRYSTIN LEIGH SMITH.

Marketplace.

[ RING RING ]

Hello, it’s me Who knows how many secrets have been shared at the telephone table—also referred to as the much more delicioussounding gossip bench—during its hallway reign in the 1930s, ’40s and ’50s. Available in a variety of styles, from sleek Scandinavian to the mod Formica model shown here, it was designed for lengthy gab sessions on the rotary phone, with a shelf below for another relic: the phone book. Today, this piece makes a great conversation starter in an entryway.

MARCH/APRIL 2022 • CHATELAINE

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HEATING

HEN MY HUSBAND and I bought our century-old home, we needed to replace all the appliances. We wanted to save energy and pay less for electricity, so we opted for a high-efﬁciency gas furnace and water heater. As foodies, we bought into the hype about cooking with gas, so we got a gas stove. But it wasn’t long before we had regrets. As time went on, and our climate anxiety grew, we talked more about how we could shrink our carbon footprint. We didn’t own a car, and we had started to eat less meat, use less plastic and buy local produce whenever possible. But these lifestyle choices couldn’t negate the fact that our home was guzzling gas. We’re not alone: More than half of Canadian homes are heated by natural gas, and 70 percent of water heaters are fuelled by it. Despite its innocuous name, so-called natural gas is mainly methane, a greenhouse gas (GHG) with 84 times the warming eﬀect of carbon dioxide over a 20-year period. And it starts polluting the environment long before it reaches your home. “I think something people overlook is where this natural gas is coming from,” says Dr. Melissa Lem, president-elect of the Canadian Association of Physicians for the Environment. Most of Canada’s natural gas is mined in northern B.C. through a process called hydraulic fracturing, or “fracking.” A well is drilled down to rock formations where natural gas deposits are trapped, and a slurry of chemicals, water and sand is blasted in, fracturing the rock and releasing the gas. Some of the toxic soup stays underground, and some returns to the surface, where it’s stored in open frac ponds. One fracking well can use and pollute more than 10 million litres of fresh water, most of which is permanently removed from the water cycle. And it pollutes the air and soil as well. With more than 20,000 fracking wells in B.C. alone, the damage is mind-boggling. “It’s a highly polluting process that’s destroying farmland, using up huge amounts of water and exposing people to high levels of pollutants in northern B.C.,” says Lem. Once natural gas is piped to your home, it continues to pollute. Running your furnace, taking a hot shower and cooking on a gas stove all produce carbon dioxide (CO2) emissions. According to Natural Resources

How an air-source heat pump works To heat your home, the pump’s outdoor unit extracts heat from the air and transfers it to the refrigerant. Then the compressor raises the temperature of the refrigerant, which ﬂows to the indoor unit. The fan blows air over the heated refrigerant, warming the air inside. To cool your home, the heat pump works in reverse—extracting heat from the indoor air and pushing it outdoors. (ILLUSTRATION REFERENCE: ENERGY.GOV)

Canada (NRCan), natural gas was responsible for 36.7 megatonnes of residential CO 2 emissions in 2018; the bulk of those came from space heating (66 percent) and water heating (19 percent). “[Natural gas] is really one of the biggest sources of GHG emissions in Canada,” says Julia Langer, CEO of the Atmospheric Fund, a regional climate agency that invests in low-carbon solutions for the Greater Toronto and Hamilton Area. “And all along the chain, from fossil fuel mining to the use in your furnace and water heater, that’s a contribution to climate change.” The good news? Switching to electric appliances can slash your home’s GHG emissions—and there are government grants to help you get there.

policy recommendations, says converting to electric heat sources is “critical.” “There’s no path to achieving our net-zero targets— which is what our climate needs—without electriﬁcation,” says Langer. “That’s because you can’t use coal or gasoline or diesel without making greenhouse gases.” Canada’s electricity supply, on the other hand, is among the cleanest in the world. More than 80 percent of the country’s electricity is generated from non-emitting sources, such as hydro. So unless you live in Alberta, Nova Scotia, Nunavut or Saskatchewan—which get most of their electricity from fossil fuels—you can drastically shrink your carbon footprint by switching from gas appliances to electric.

The future is electric

How the government is helping make the switch more affordable

Canada has committed to reducing GHG emissions by 40 to 45 percent from 2005 levels by 2030, and achieving net-zero emissions by 2050. (At net zero, we either emit no GHGs or oﬀset any emissions through actions like tree planting or carbon capture.) But we’ll never achieve those targets without getting oﬀ gas. The Canadian Institute for Climate Choices, an independent organization that conducts climate research and makes

In May 2021, the federal government created the Canada Greener Homes Grant, which provides up to $5,000 for improvements such as insulation, new windows and doors, and energy-eﬃcient appliances. There are also provincial and municipal incentives that you can tap into. In Toronto, for example, the city’s Home Energy Loan Program provides lowinterest loans of up to $125,000 to cover the cost of home energy improvements.

MARCH/APRIL 2022 • CHATELAINE

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HEATING

Homeowners can repay the loan via their property tax bill. British Columbia’s CleanBC program oﬀers low-interest ﬁnancing and provides rebates of up to $6,000 for switching from a gas furnace to a heat pump, $2,000 for switching from a gas water heater to a heat pump water heater, and $1,000 for necessary electricalservice upgrades.

It all starts with a home energy audit In order to qualify for rebates through the Greener Homes Grant, you need to get an energy audit. A registered energy advisor (you can find one through the NRCan website) will assess your home to determine its energy efficiency and make recommendations for improvement. Sarah Grant is co-founder of Goldfinch Energy, a Toronto-based organization that helps Canadians adopt clean technology. She says an energy audit takes about two hours and costs $300 to $600 depending on the size of your home (the cost is covered by the Greener Homes Grant). The energy advisor will examine your windows, doors and appliances, and find out if your insulation is up to snuff. After the audit is complete, you’ll receive a report summarizing the advisor’s findings and outlining the steps you’ll need to take to make your home more climatefriendly. Actions could include insulating walls, replacing windows or sealing air leakages. Your advisor can also help you navigate the various rebate programs and recommend energy-efficient appliances and knowledgeable contractors. Once you’ve made your home more energy-efficient, the next step is to consider making the switch to lower-carbon equipment for heating, hot water and cooking. Here’s what you need to know.

Decarbonizing your heat source Switching from a gas furnace to an electric heat pump can drastically shrink your carbon footprint. The technology has been around for more than 150 years—and thanks to ongoing advances, it’s now a viable option for cold Canadian winters. Heat pumps are named for their ability to push heat from one place to another. To warm a space, they pump heat inside; to cool one, they pump it outside. There are three types of heat pumps: water source, ground source (geothermal) and

CHATELAINE • MARCH/APRIL 2022

How a heat pump water heater works Unlike conventional gas or electric water heaters, heat pump water heaters don’t warm the water directly. Instead, they capture heat from the surrounding air and transfer it to the water tank. Often referred to as hybrid electric water heaters, they can work entirely on heat pump technology, electricity or a combination of the two. (ILLUSTRATION REFERENCE: SMALL PLANET SUPPLY)

air source. Air source heat pumps, which move heat between the indoor air and the outdoor air, are the type most commonly used for home heating. To cool a space, an air source heat pump works like an air conditioner. A fan inside blows air over an evaporator coil, which contains refrigerant, a compound designed to absorb heat. Once heated, the refrigerant circulates to a condenser coil in an outdoor unit. A fan blows air across the coil, releasing the heat outside. The heat is sucked out of your home, lowering the indoor temperature. To provide heat, the system works in reverse. First, the outdoor unit extracts heat from the air and transfers it to the refrigerant. (Even on a cold day, there’s still heat to draw from.) Then the compressor raises the temperature of the refrigerant, which flows to the indoor unit. The fan blows air over the heated refrigerant, warming the air inside. Some cold-climate heat pumps can operate in temperatures as low as –30 degrees C. Because it takes less energy to transfer heat than generate it, heat pumps are way more efficient than conventional heating and cooling systems. Even a highefficiency gas furnace operates below 100 percent, meaning not all the energy from combustion is used to heat the air. A heat pump, on the other hand, provides more

thermal energy than the energy it uses. In ideal conditions, a heat pump can achieve efficiencies of 300 to 400 percent. Aside from being super efficient, heat pumps also make your home more comfortable. Unlike a gas furnace, which scorches the air, a heat pump simply moves heat from one place to another. It operates slowly and steadily, circulating naturally humid air—without drying out your skin and sinuses. (Another bonus: It’s also much quieter than a traditional air conditioner.) The cost of a heat pump varies depending on the size of your home, how efficient the unit is and whether you have ductwork. According to Michael Nepom, owner of Toronto-based Mckinnon Heating Cooling, a heat pump can range from $4,000 to $19,000, including installation. Operating costs vary depending on the size and efficiency of your home, as well as the price of electricity versus natural gas where you live. The Pembina Institute, a clean energy think tank, ran the numbers for a single-family home in B.C.’s Lower Mainland, comparing a high-efficiency gas furnace and an air source heat pump. The annual cost for running the gas furnace was $375, while that of the heat pump was $300 to $400. If replacing your furnace and AC isn’t financially in the cards right now, or if your gas furnace is still going strong, consider

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a hybrid system—a lower capacity, less expensive heat pump with a gas furnace as your backup. With a hybrid system, the heat pump provides all the cooling and the bulk of the heating, and the furnace only kicks in when the temperature plummets. (This is what I have. The gas furnace is programmed to turn on if the indoor temperature dips below 18 degrees C, which it hasn’t so far.)

Decarbonizing your water heater With each Canadian using an average of 75 litres of hot water every day, water heating is second only to space heating when it comes to energy use, according to Dianna Miller, chief of the Energy Star program, a certification program for energy-efficient products run by NRCan. She says the most efficient solution is a heat pump water heater. Unlike conventional water heaters, heat pump water heaters don’t warm the water directly. Instead, they capture heat from the surrounding air and transfer it to the water tank. Often referred to as hybrid electric water heaters, they can work entirely on heat pump technology, electricity or a combination of the two.

A heat pump water heater uses up to 50 percent less energy than a conventional electric water heater. So it not only uses less electricity—putting less strain on the grid—but it costs less to run. A heat pump water heater costs between $1,300 and $3,000; by comparison, gas water heaters cost anywhere from $700 to $3,000. “If all Canadian homes used heat pump water heating, we could reduce our greenhouse gas emissions by more than three megatonnes,” says Miller. “[That’s] the equivalent to taking about one million cars oﬀ the road every year.”

Decarbonizing your stove Gas stoves (both the burners and the oven) not only produce CO 2 emissions through combustion but they also leak methane. A recent study from Stanford University estimates that methane leaking from gas stoves in U.S. homes has the same climate impact as about 500,000 gasoline-powered cars. For an eco-friendlier way to cook, your best bet is an induction range. Induction technology uses electromagnets to heat pots and pans directly, rather than heating an element. When the stove is turned on, an electric current passes

How an induction range works Induction technology uses electromagnets to heat cookware directly, rather than heating an element. When the stove is turned on, an electric current passes through a coiled wire under the cooktop. This creates a magnetic current throughout the cookware, which heats it up.

HEATING

through a coiled wire under the cooktop. This creates a magnetic current throughout the cookware, which heats it up. Because no heat is lost in the area around the element, induction cooking is more energy-efficient than cooking with gas or electric stoves. Induction stovetops are also healthier than gas because they don’t emit harmful pollutants like nitrogen dioxide and carbon monoxide. As well, while cooking with any type of range creates particulate matter—a mixture of droplets and fine particles that can be inhaled, potentially harming your lungs and heart—cooking with induction produces about half as much. Induction stoves are also safer if you’re cooking with kids. You need to have a pot on the element in order for it to generate heat, so you don’t need to worry about budding chefs burning their fingers. And the stove will shut off if a pot boils over. They’re also great for cooking: They can boil water up to 50 percent faster than gas or electric, and maintain a precise, consistent temperature. Because they’re able to operate at a lower temperature than gas or electric stoves, it’s easier to melt chocolate or simmer soups and sauces without scorching them. And since the stovetop isn’t heated, splatters and spills don’t bake on, making cleanup a cinch. An induction range costs from $1,595 to $6,095. You’ll also need induction-ready cookware: Stainless steel, cast iron and enameled iron pots work, but aluminum and copper ones typically don’t. Check your cookware with a magnet; if it sticks, it’s compatible with induction. If you can’t afford to buy an induction range, or you rent and don’t have the option to switch, you can purchase a singleburner induction cooktop for about $50. You can also reduce the emissions you create—and inhale—by doing more of your cooking with electric appliances, like a microwave, pressure cooker or toaster oven. Regardless of the type of stove you have, always use your range hood. Liu Sun, a researcher with Health Canada who has studied the effectiveness of ventilation on removing particulate matter, says using a high-speed range hood that vents outside while cooking can remove up to 80 percent of pollutants. If your hood is less effective, leave it on for another 15 minutes after you turn the stove off.

MARCH/APRIL 2022 • CHATELAINE

SƖ ǉŨƫƎ įíśļŒǉ İėƣƣļŝİ enough magnesium? Sį ŝŨƣ ǉŨƫ śļİķƣ ŝŨƣļĉė í Đėǝ ŝļƣė Œíĉŏ Ũį CALM. FƎŨś ƣļŝǉ ƣŨƣƖ ƣŨ ƋíƎėŝƣƖ ǃė íŒŒ ŝėėĐ śíİŝėƖļƫś įŨƎ ƖŒėėƋ ƖƣƎėƖƖ Ƌíļŝ íŝĐ śŨƎė }ƫƎ ƣŨƣíŒ ķėíŒƣķ ĐėƋėŝĐƖ Ũŝ ƣķļƖ ķíƎĐɞǃŨƎŏļŝİ śļŝėƎíŒ ƣķíƣɩƖ ķíƎĐ ƣŨ İėƣ ƣķƎŨƫİķ Đļėƣ ɚ íŝĐ ėíƖļŒǉ ĐėƋŒėƣėĐ

Getting enough śíİŝėƖļƫś ļƖ ŏėǉ ɚ Ĉƫƣ ļƣ ƖķŨƫŒĐŝɩƣ Ĉė í ĉķŨƎė ¸ķíƣɩƖ ǃķǉ ƣķėƎėɩƖ ríƣƫƎíŒ íŒśɩƖ Œļŝė Ũį ėíƖǉ ĐėŒļĉļŨƫƖ śíİŝėƖļƫś ƖƫƋƋŒėśėŝƣƖ ÝŨƫɩŒŒ íŒƖŨ ŝŨƣļĉė that ríƣƫƎíŒ íŒś ǃŨƎŏƖ įíƖƣ ¸ķíƣɩƖ because we use ķļİķŒǉɞíĈƖŨƎĈíĈŒė magnesium that gets straight to ǃŨƎŏ ĈƎļŝİļŝİ ǉŨƫ much-needed ĉíŒś ¸ķíƣɩƖ ǃķǉ ríƣƫƎíŒ íŒś is ĈíĉŏėĐ Ĉǉ ĐŨǓėŝƖ of awards and 5-star reviews.

ǂíļŒíĈŒė ļŝ ŨƎİíŝļĉ įƎƫļƣ Ǟ íǂŨƫƎėĐ ƋŨǃĐėƎƖ ƣķíƣ ǝ ǓǓ ƫƋ (for more fun) and ƣíƖƣǉ İƫśśļėƖ ŏļĐƖ íŝĐ ƋíƎėŝƣƖ íŒļŏė ŒŨǂė ƣŨ ƣíŏė ríƣƫƎíŒ íŒś SƣɩƖ ƋƫƎė íŝĐ ŝíƣƫƎíŒ įƎėė įƎŨś íƎƣļǝ ĉļíŒ íĐĐļƣļǂėƖ and preservatives.

¸Ǝǉ ƣķė ĈėƣƣėƎɞƣíƖƣļŝİ ĈėƣƣėƎɞíĈƖŨƎĈļŝİ ĈėƖƣɞŒŨǂėĐ śíİŝėƖļƫś ƣŨĐíǉ!

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fļŝĐí ŨŒƣŨŝ FŨƫŝĐėƎ /} ríƣƫƎíŒ íŒś íŝíĐí

INSIDE A NEW WAVE OF MENTAL HEALTH TREATMENTS

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During peak allergy season, try rinsing your nasal passages

TEXT, ALETHEA NG. PRODUCED BY AIMEE NISHITOBA. PHOTO, ERIK PUTZ. STYLING, TRICIA HALL.

once a day.

[ NOSE JOB ]

A natural way to alleviate allergies As we head into allergy season, a nasal-irrigation system—which you use to pour distilled water or a saline mixture into one nostril and out the other—can help combat mild allergies or supplement allergy meds. “It’s a good way to get rid of pollen,” says Ottawa-based allergist Dr. Seema Khan. She generally recommends NeilMed’s Sinus Rinse and its NasaFlo Neti Pot, which (like all neti pots) is rooted in Ayurvedic medicine. Diﬀerent styles of neti pots, like the one pictured here, abound; whatever option you choose, Khan suggests using it in the shower. It’s less messy, plus the humidity will open up your nose so “it just works better.”

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NOTES

amino acids, making it a complete protein on its own. Soy is also high in isoﬂavones, which may offer protection from some cancers. One caveat: Soy allergies are relatively common, which takes this option off the table for many people.

What’s really in your plant-based meat? A guide to plant proteins and what they do

Vital wheat gluten/wheat protein isolate Unsurprisingly, both vital wheat gluten and wheat protein isolate come from wheat. When wheat ﬂour is hydrated, the gluten (a type of protein) becomes activated. This hydrated mix is then processed to remove everything but the gluten, which is dried and ground into a powder. The main difference between vital wheat gluten and wheat protein isolate is the concentration of protein—the latter contains more of it. Vital wheat gluten, the primary ingredient in seitan, is chewy and slightly rubbery, which helps it mimic the texture of meat. Neither option works if you have gluten intolerance or celiac disease, however.

FROM VEGAN CHICKEN to faux ﬁsh sticks, plantbased meat alternatives are popping up in grocery aisles and on chain restaurants’ menus in record numbers—and they’re expected to make up a third of the market for protein products by 2024. Responding to massive consumer demand (nearly 40 percent of Canadians are incorporating more plant-based foods in their diets), companies are formulating tastier-than-ever burger patties, breaded nuggets and ground “meats,” often with qualities that mimic those of animal products surprisingly well. But where does the protein in these products come from, and what role does it play? Proteins are made of nine essential amino acids, which must come from our diet. These amino acids combine to form “complete” proteins. Unlike animal sources, plant-based ones are often low in one or more amino acids, making them incomplete. Since each plant protein source contributes different properties and nutritional value, they’re often used in combination. Here’s a breakdown of the most popular plant-based sources.

CHATELAINE • MARCH/APRIL 2022

Mung bean Mung bean protein is typically included as part of a combination of plant proteins because it has excellent gelling qualities, which helps create the texture of meat alternatives. Pea Pea protein, one of the most common ingredients in plant-based products, is made from yellow peas that have been dried, ground and rinsed to remove the starch and ﬁbre so that only the protein remains. Compared to protein isolated from other plant sources, it’s more easily

digestible and contains a more complete proﬁle of essential amino acids. One downside? It can have a pronounced pealike taste.

Rice Rice protein is most often used in combination with pea protein because it’s high in methionine, the amino acid that pea protein is low in. Together, they form a complete protein. Soy Originating from soybeans, soy protein has a neutral ﬂavour and is unique because it contains all of the essential

WHILE THEY MAY be healthier than actual meat, many plant-based meat alternatives don’t automatically deserve the “health halo” they often receive. Highly processed plant proteins also tend to contain additives (such as texturizers, dyes and emulsiﬁers) and can contain a large amount of sodium. They’re often made with palm or coconut oil, so they can be high in saturated fat, too. Just as a whole chicken breast is better for you than chicken nuggets, minimally processed sources of plant protein (think beans, lentils, chickpeas, tofu, nuts and seeds) are a more nutritious choice than many plant-based meat alternative products.

ICONS, ISTOCK PHOTO.

Written by EMILY KICHLER, RD Illustration by STEF WONG

TODAY I close my eyes tightly enough, I can still remember the rush of euphoria that hit me the ﬁrst time I took MDMA (a.k.a. ecstasy) at the age of 16. It was 1998, and my best friend and I had snuck out of her house in Port Credit, Ont., and taken the GO train to downtown Toronto. There, we loaded ourselves onto a magical school bus to attend our ﬁrst rave. As we arrived in the middle of nowhere, we saw a sea of bodies clad in fun fur, tightly gripping glow sticks and swaying to thumping bass lines. It was like nothing I had ever experienced before. Everyone was welcoming and inviting, happy to share a warm embrace—or some of their favourite party favours, “to help keep the vibe alive.”

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Soon after we arrived, a stranger handed me a small purple pill with a tiny star detail pressed into the top, which I immediately gulped down. I should have been scared but, for whatever reason, I wasn’t. Within hours—maybe even minutes?—I felt all of the pent-up anger that I couldn’t quite place, and all of the displaced sadness I harboured for not being the perfect kid my parents wanted, slowly ease out of my body. For the ﬁrst time in a long time, I felt happy and connected to myself.

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MENTAL HEALTH

This marked my introduction to psychedelics, a class of psychoactive substances—which also includes psilocybin (commonly called magic mushrooms), ketamine and LSD— whose primary effect is to trigger non-ordinary states of consciousness. Little did I know, nearly 25 years later, the party drugs of my youth would be headlining some very promising therapeutic treatments for anxiety, depression, post-traumatic stress disorder (PTSD) and more. Here’s what you need to know about the new age of psychedelics. n the late 1930s, a Swiss chemist who worked for a pharmaceutical company synthesized a compound he hoped would stimulate the cardiovascular and respiratory systems. It didn’t, but the chemist, Albert Hofmann, always suspected that this compound, called LSD, might have other uses. After embarking on some “informal” research, he experienced LSD’s hallucinogenic effects first-hand. This discovery kicked off a global round of research into psychedelic-assisted psychotherapy. Saskatchewan’s Weyburn Mental Hospital soon emerged as a leading facility for such research. There, in the 1950s, psychiatrist Humphry Osmond—who is credited with coining the term “psychedelic”—studied how LSD, mescaline (derived from several types of cactus) and other hallucinogenic substances could be used to help transform mental health care. Around this time, a colleague of his, Colin Smith, conducted a small study on the effects of LSD treatment in 24 people with alcohol issues. About 50 percent saw some improvement; Osmond eventually treated hundreds of patients who overused alcohol with LSD. Recreationally, the drug became incredibly popular in the 1960s and was touted by countercultural icons of the time, like the novelist Ken Kesey and the Harvard psychologist Timothy Leary.

“It’s not about just taking psychedelics to have a lot of fun. It’s about what is the research and what is the medicine here?” But then came the war on drugs. Psychedelics were placed in the most restricted category in the United States Controlled Substances Act, alongside marijuana, cocaine and heroin. Canada’s Narcotic Control Act also classiﬁed them as dangerous drugs with no medical value. As a result of this criminalization, psychedelic research ground to a halt, relegating these drugs to illegal use on the party circuit. Today, after decades of advocacy, Canadian doctors and researchers are ﬁnally being allowed to perform limited clinical trials as they attempt to prove the validity of psychedelics as a treatment for PTSD, depression, anxiety, eating disorders and addiction issues.

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Behind much of the push to further the research that first began in the 1950s is the Multidisciplinary Association for Psychedelic Studies (MAPS), a nonprofit that originated in California in the 1980s; it has had a Canadian arm since 2011. MAPS, whose mandate is to advance psychedelic medicine and support legal and regulated access to it, has raised more than $130 million to fund research on MDMA, LSD and other hallucinogens, as well as cannabis. “I still think that people have it in their head that . . . this is just something you get high on,” says Sabrina Ramkellawan, the research committee lead for MAPS in Toronto, referring to both psychedelics and cannabis. She finds it confusing that people are willing to tolerate the side effects of many pharmaceuticals yet disparage drugs that “give you pleasure and make you happy.”

THE APPROXIMATE NUMBER OF EXEMPTIONS HEALTH CANADA HAS GRANTED TO ALLOW PATIENTS AND HEALTH CARE PROFESSIONALS TO USE PSILOCYBIN

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scramble to pay for expensive treatments while investors cash in. Some market research suggests the sector could be worth as much as US$10.75 billion by 2027. Jessica McKeil is a cannabis writer from Salt Spring Island, B.C., who began microdosing psilocybin—taking a tiny amount, not enough to cause a hallucinogenic effect—in 2019 to help with her panic and anxiety disorders. The changes were subtle at first, says McKeil, who is 35. She became less anxious about deadlines, for example, and was more in the moment during daily tasks, like walking her dog. One rainstorm walk was particularly memorable: “I would stop to look over at the field in the pouring rain, and I just thought it was so beautiful and I would just have good days,” she says. “Yes, days became good!” While McKeil is worried about the commercialization of psychedelics, she also wishes there was more of a push to educate, train and create a structure around professionals in the psychedelics space. There are many people offering guided trips on Salt Spring Island, she says, and “it would be so much better if there were a few more safety protocols.” Since psychedelics remain illegal while interest in their therapeutic benefits grows, the underground industry is booming, fuelled by clients willing to take risks because they feel like they’re out of other options. “Either we put the power into the doctors’, health care practitioners’ and patients’ hands, and they allow for there to be medical supervision,” says TheraPsil’s Hawkswell, “or the alternative is no medical supervision. And that’s what’s happening now.” The world of unlicensed psychedelic treatments has “exploded,” says Haden, calling it the “Wild, Wild West,” where many self-designated therapists have no medical or therapeutic training at all. He says unlicensed therapy can range from “excellent” to “abusive.” A lack of structure means a lack of medical support in case of an emergency. A lack of medical training, meanwhile, could mean failing to know whether patients’ other pharmaceuticals might cause a bad interaction—patients on medication for schizophrenia, for example, could be at risk of setting off a psychotic episode. “We want patients and doctors to work together when they’re using these substances,” explains Hawkswell. Zach Walsh, a professor of psychology at the University of British Columbia who specializes in research on cannabis and psychedelics, notes that psychedelics are less toxic than many legal drugs. He hasn’t seen significant negative mental health

$10.75 billion

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“Either the government allows medical supervision or there’s no medical supervision, which is what is happening right now.”

consequences from controlled psychedelic experiences in his own research, and says that while there have been concerns that frequent use could lead to symptoms similar to cannabis-induced psychosis—a rare but serious side effect of frequent cannabis use— he hasn’t seen the same pattern among psychedelics users. Instead, like Haden and Hawkswell, Walsh worries about people who might experience a bad trip without proper medical support. “People looking to explore [psychedelics are] looking to have an experience that’s going to enhance their wellness,” he says. “If they don’t get support, they might find the experience disorienting and unpleasant, rather than something that creates a meaningful change.” Above all, he says choosing to use psychedelics is a big decision, and it can take time to decompress from the experience. “Like most medicines, effects vary across individuals,” he says. “Psychedelics are certainly not a panacea that can resolve all problems.” Professional support is also important given the heightened vulnerability that comes with some psychedelic experiences. During his time at MAPS, Haden advised that psychedelics sessions be led by two therapists of mixed genders who would report back to a therapeutic college of psychedelic supervisors and be accountable for their behaviour. He believed this would be important in case those participating in studies (or eventually going for psychedelic therapy) needed to report an oversight or incident that occurred with a therapist. The risk of sexual assault is a consideration with MDMA therapy in particular, since the drug increases one’s feelings of empathy as well as friendliness and playfulness with others. “It reduces people’s sense of boundaries and it increases a sense of closeness,” explains Haden. “So people have to be very professional as a result and [respect] what those boundaries are.” There is also a small amount of physical touch between therapists and patients that can take place, such as hand holding through an emotional session

or body work using finger pressure. “There will always be a discussion in advance with the subject, with a lot of detailed clarity that there is a difference in touching and it’s not sexual touching.” MAPS itself isn’t immune to issues that could compromise patient safety. In 2018, a Canadian participant in a MAPS clinical trial for MDMA accused one of the two therapists present during her sessions of sexual assault. MAPS Canada agreed to pay $15,000 to the patient so that she could obtain therapy while she sought legal action. (The patient filed a sexual assault complaint with the RCMP, but upon investigation, no charges were laid. She also filed a civil claim, which was settled out of court on undisclosed terms.) MAPS severed its relationship with both therapists and, in 2019, released a code of ethics, including a section that forbids sexual relationships between therapists and their patients. For his part, Haden says he was not involved in the hiring, training or supervising of the therapists who led the session in question. He resigned from MAPS Canada in 2021.

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An American black bear ﬁshes for salmon along a stream on the northern coast of Vancouver Island.

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PHOTO, ZAC MILLS.

life

Meet ﬁve women who work with wild bears, studying their movements, learning their language and advocating for their protection Written by TRINA MOYLES

CONSERVATION

EARS HAVE SHAPED THE story of what it means to be human in North America, inspiring the stories we tell, the names of constellations, and the earliest forms of visual art, which have been preserved for thousands of years on cave walls. Many Indigenous groups in Canada regard Bear as a medicine keeper and close relative, referring to them with reverence as “Grandmother” or “Sister.” Today, there are three species of wild bears who roam the mountains, forests, coasts and Arctic tundras in North America, including grizzly bears, polar bears and American black bears. But since the early 20th century, the fields of bear research, guiding, filmmaking and conservation have been mainly occupied by men. “Generally speaking, the world of carnivore research is a male-dominated space,” says Courtney Hughes, a conservation scientist who studies grizzly bears in Grande Cache, Alta. “But we’re seeing increasing leadership by women, including women of colour.” Today, Hughes and other women in North America are changing the narrative on what it means to study the movements and behaviours of bears, to view and film them in their wild habitats and ecosystems, to learn their language of body movements and vocalizations, and to advocate for their protection from habitat loss and trophy hunting. Indigenous bear guides, including Sherry Moon and Krista Duncan, are reconnecting with bears, culture and history on their traditional territories. “Every year, I’m seeing more and more women getting into bear guiding,” says Moon. What motivates these women to spend long hours in the field with bears, following their tracks and learning their language? For Karine Genest, a Yukon-based filmmaker and polar bear guide, the lessons of working with our Ursus kin are many. “The bears ground me,” she says. “Being with bears, you don’t have a choice. You have to focus on the present moment.” Here, Moon, Duncan, Genest and other women share what it’s like to work to protect wild bear populations in North America.

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GRIZZLY BEAR GUIDE Musgamakw Dzawada’enuxw First Nation Port McNeill, B.C. Sherry Moon knows many of the grizzly bears by name in the Kwakwaka’wakw territory. Since 2016, she’s been working as a guide with Sea Wolf Adventures, facilitating safe ways for visitors to view bears, and travelling by boat and on foot to the favoured places where they come to fish for salmon, flip rocks in search of crabs or dig for roots. There are the brother bears, Andy and Roy—Andy, a superior fisher, has been known to help his younger brother catch fish—and Caroline, an old matriarch who occasionally forages in close proximity to a black bear (a rare thing for grizzlies to do). Moon recalls a day when she bumped into Numas, an old male grizzly whose name means “Wise One” in the Kwak’wala language, sleeping behind a tree. Numas calmly lifted his head and looked at Moon, and then lowered his huge skull and went back to sleep. “It’s like he knew I wasn’t a threat to him and he wasn’t a threat to me,” she

says. “It’s amazing to feel that connection with the bears we work with.” Although Moon grew up with grizzlies in her backyard, she never imagined she’d become a bear guide. But when her uncle, Mike Willie, started Sea Wolf Adventures, oﬀering Indigenous-led wildlife and cultural tours in their home territory, she knew she wanted to be involved. She joined the team as a boat driver in 2015. “I love being on the water and being with wildlife,” she says. The following year, she was leading her own tours. It’s not only her love for grizzlies that draws Moon to guiding. It’s about being back in her territory. “When I started walking these rivers that haven’t been walked in a long time, due to colonization, it brought me a lot of pride and empowerment,” she says. “Reconnecting with my traditional territory has given me a bigger sense of my own identity, of who I am and where I come from.”

PHOTO, TAYLOR BURK.

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Numas, whose name means “Wise One” in Kwak’wala, dozes in the sun.

GRIZZLY BEAR PHOTO, MIKE WILLIE. KARINE GENEST PHOTO, TRINA MOYLES.

Genest ﬁlms a polar bear sleeping along the rocky shoreline of Hudson Bay.

POLAR BEAR GUIDE AND WILDLIFE FILMMAKER Whitehorse, Yukon

It’s an unusually warm day in early November, and Karine Genest focuses her lens on a large male polar bear, who’s sauntering along the open waters of Hudson Bay. Every year for the past decade, Genest, a wildlife cinematographer and polar bear guide, has travelled to Churchill, Man.—the polar bear capital of the world—to document the annual migration of these giants from land to sea ice on Hudson Bay.

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Genest captures footage of fresh polar bear tracks in Churchill, Man.

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POLAR BEAR SCIENTIST Churchill, Man.

PHOTO, TRINA MOYLES.

The bear approaches a GoPro camera positioned on the rocky shoreline and opens his jaws wide as if to swallow the camera whole. “Eh, eh, eh!” Genest calmly calls out from 30 feet away as if scolding a dog. Incredulously, he lifts his head and ambles off along the bay. “Thank you!” she sings out. Over the years, Genest has become intimately attuned to the language of bears, working closely with bear guide and filmmaker Kelsey Eliasson, who runs the Churchill, Man.-based guiding company Polar Bear Alley. “It’s all about controlling your body language and emotions,” explains Genest. “If you want the bear to be fearful, you can make them afraid. But they aren’t naturally fearful; they’re curious, like us.” She’s become familiar with many of the individual polar bears who migrate back to the same places in Churchill, including a young female whom she fondly calls Peanut. Genest first met Peanut when she was an orphaned yearling cub. Despite the high odds against her, the young bear survived in the wild. Several years ago, Genest was overcome with joy to see Peanut—whom she recognized from her calm and tolerant demeanour—return to her favourite resting spot along Hudson Bay, older, wiser and with two young cubs in tow. “She’s really a great mom,” says Genest. Her feature-length documentary, L’esprit des ours (The Spirit of the Bears), focuses on Indigenous storytelling and science to celebrate the deep bonds that have existed between people and bears for millennia. Genest is striving to change the way bears are often perceived as “nuisances” in North America by advocating for peaceful coexistence between people and bears. “It’s not that I want to be that voice [for bears], but if they need one, I want to be that voice,” says Genest. “We are sharing the land with them—and they’re a part of us.”

Alysa McCall will never forget the ﬁrst time she visited Churchill, Man., in 2010, ﬂying over the frozen Hudson Bay to follow the movements of female polar bears. McCall, then a master’s student, worked with a team of scientists to measure tranquilized bears to gain a better understanding of their age and relative health. “Seeing the bears up close— feeling their bodies—was really impactful.”

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CONSERVATION

POLAR BEAR PHOTO, TRINA MOYLES. ALYSA McCALL PHOTO, BRADLEY HAMPSON/POLAR BEARS INTERNATIONAL.

A male polar bear keeps vigil beside the open waters of Hudson Bay, waiting for the waters to freeze so he can head north.

McCall’s own research as a master’s student tracked the patterns of female polar bears on the sea ice. She analyzed decisions made by females with cubs and without them, discovering when and where they travelled, what type of sea ice they preferred, and when and where they would come ashore. These are critical questions when it comes to the conservation of polar bears, who depend on sea ice to survive. “Polar bears should really be called ‘ice bears,’ ” explains McCall. “They navigate the Arctic sea ice in search of seal blubber, the most calorically dense food on the planet—it’s what sustains them.”

Since that first flight over the frozen bay, McCall has dedicated her career to working for polar bear conservation. Her academic research dovetailed into a collaboration with Polar Bears International (PBI), a non-profit focused on protecting the bears and their habitat. In 2011, McCall helped the group launch its online Polar Bear Tracker, which offers users a “secret peek into the world of polar bears” as they journey onto the ice. (She officially joined the PBI team in 2014.) Climate change is resulting in the rising, record-breaking temperatures of ocean waters, which affects ice formation on Hudson Bay. “The previous

three years, we had great freeze-up—right on time,” explains McCall. But in 2021, above-average temperatures in Churchill postponed freeze-up for nearly two weeks, which then delayed the bears’ migration onto the ice. “We know that polar bears will be spending more time on land [and fewer days hunting seals] as the ice continues to decline,” says McCall. “We’re already seeing that happen in southern Hudson Bay in Ontario.” Unfortunately, there are no short-term ﬁxes. “We really do need to convince this global community of leaders to work on [reducing] carbon emissions.”

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SPIRIT BEAR GUIDE, SKIPPER AND FIELD TECHNICIAN Kitasoo/Xai’xais First Nation Klemtu, B.C.

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A female spirit bear shows off her catch along a stream in the Great Bear Rainforest in northern British Columbia.

Duncan while she went ﬁshing. “She basically had us babysit,” she recalls. “It made me fall in love with guiding.” The same year, Duncan began working as a research technician with the Spirit Bear Research Foundation, setting up a network of snag sites to collect hair samples for DNA analysis. (Snag sites are typically trees or power lines wrapped with a strand of barbed wire; bears—lured by the scent of a bait mixture— will rub their backs up against the wire, thus snagging some of their long, coarse hairs.)

The project was a collaboration between the University of Victoria and ﬁve Indigenous nations; its goal was to monitor the movements and salmon consumption of black and grizzly bears. In 2017, Duncan and her colleagues successfully lobbied to end the trophy hunt on grizzly bears in the Great Bear Rainforest. But while hunting white spirit bears is illegal, hunting black bears— who carry the recessive white fur gene—is not. “We’re ﬁghting for something that we want to keep for thousands of

years to come,” says Duncan. Over the past decade, she’s watched generations of bears grow up in her territory, including a young spirit bear, Cedar, whom she met as an orphaned cub. “He didn’t know how to ﬁsh because his mother hadn’t taught him,” she says. But Cedar adapted, feeding on scraps left behind by other bears. “Today, he’s the dominant white bear along the creek,” she says. “Bears have taught me about patience and strength. They are the heart of the Great Bear Rainforest.”

KRISTA DUNCAN PHOTO, KRISTA DUNCAN. SPIRIT BEAR PHOTO, ZAC MILLS.

Krista Duncan was born in the village of Klemtu, B.C., a member of the Kitasoo/ Xai’xais First Nation. Growing up in the Great Bear Rainforest, a massive protected area that stretches along coastal B.C., she’d listen to the stories of her great-grandmother, Violet Neasloss, the last fluent speaker of Sgüüx. s, a dialect of Southern Tsimshian. “They were about treating [bears] the way you’d want to be treated—with respect.” In 2012, Duncan started her first season working as a guide with Spirit Bear Lodge. She found herself spending long hours alone in the forest, making her scent and her behaviours familiar to the mooksgm ol (spirit bears), ksamxsm ol (black bears) and medi’ik (grizzly bears) that gathered along the streams to fish. (Spirit bears, whose Latin name is Ursus americanus kermodei, are a rare subspecies of black bear whose white fur is caused by a recessive gene.) Later that summer, she earned the trust of a black bear, who began leaving her cubs with

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CONSERVATION

Left: A grizzly bear mom and her cub rub up against a snag site. Right: Hughes collects grizzly bear hair samples in northwestern Alberta.

COURTNEY HUGHES PHOTO, KJ DAKIN. GRIZZLY BEAR PHOTO, COURTESY OF THE GOVERNMENT OF ALBERTA.

CONSERVATION SCIENTIST Grande Cache, Alta. “I’ve always had an affinity for—and connection with—carnivore species,” says Courtney Hughes, reflecting on her early childhood in northern Ontario. There, she often followed her father, a trapper and hunter, on game trails that wove through black bear territory. Flash forward 30 years and Hughes is following in the footsteps of Ursus arctos, or grizzly bears, in northwestern Alberta, trudging through boreal swamplands and along the edges of farmland, retrieving hairs from a network of snag sites. Hughes and her team have collected thousands of hair samples for DNA analysis to determine the first-ever population baseline for grizzly bears in this remote region. The study is part of a province-wide effort to recover the grizzly bear population in Alberta. In 2010, grizzlies were designated a threatened species, with fewer than 700 bears roaming the landscape. Every year, grizzlies are killed by poachers, in head-on collisions on highways and railways, or as a result of coming into close contact with humans. While many people fear grizzlies, the chances of being injured by one are approximately 1 in 2.7 million, according to the U.S. National Park Service. Despite this, people still experience negative interactions with bears that place both parties at risk. For this reason, Hughes decided to dedicate her PhD research at the University of Alberta to better understanding how humans and grizzly bears can coexist, with the goal of reducing instances of human-bear conflict. “There’s ongoing contention surrounding grizzly bear recovery in Alberta. While there’s a lot of great biological science on grizzly bears, there’s been a gap on understanding the human dimensions of grizzly bear management,” explains Hughes. “I was curious: What do people who live with grizzlies really think, or want with regard to recovery policy?” Hughes interviewed more than 60 people who live or work in grizzly bear ranges across Alberta, including ranchers, oil and gas workers, and landowners. The results surprised her.

“Only one individual said they didn’t like grizzly bears,” says Hughes. Her data shows that people’s relationships with bears—and their fear of them—is highly complex and often situational. “It’s a matter of working with people to understand what they know [about grizzly bears] and want to know, and what they’re willing to do to mitigate risks for conflict, as well as the types of support they need to do so,” says Hughes. Today, in the name of conflict mitigation, Hughes is encouraging foresters and oil and gas workers to carry bear spray as a deterrent, asking ranchers to dispose of dead livestock in bearproof containers and suggesting that farmers set up electric fences around their grain bins to deter break-ins. In 2016, Hughes launched a citizen-science app called GrizzTracker, which collects data on people’s sightings of grizzly bears in northwestern Alberta. “I absolutely think people want bears on the landscape,” says Hughes. “It’s less about human-bear conflict and more about human-human conflict. It’s about working with people to achieve grizzly bear recovery in Alberta.”

MARCH/APRIL 2022 • CHATELAINE

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SUSTAINABILITY

Producing beef requires

20x more land per unit of protein than growing beans or lentils.

It’s estimated that Canada has already lost

70% of its Prairie grasslands. Speciﬁc grazing techniques may help preserve what remains.

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SUSTAINABILITY

Illustrations by CARMEN JABIER

Is there such a thing as

SUSTAINABLE BEEF? Eliminating red meat from your diet is what’s best for the planet. But for those who don’t want to cut it out entirely, some ranchers are adopting practices that allegedly reduce its environmental impact. Naomi Hansen investigates the quest to make beef more appetizing to climate-anxious Canadians

PHOTO, LEE HART.

n any given day when Sean McGrath walks out his door and sets foot on his land, he’s met with a spectacular view of the surrounding Canadian prairie. “Even on a day like today—snowy and cold—it doesn’t fail to take my breath away,” he says. “I can’t articulate it better than that. I want this place to be better when I go than when I started.” McGrath is the fifth generation of his family to own and operate Round Rock Ranching, a sustainable cattle ranch in Vermilion, Alta. The ranch is situated mainly on native grasslands, where cattle are grazed year-round in patterns that support the health of the landscape. The grasslands’ plant and animal biodiversity is considered and protected, and water pollution is reduced through preventive measures, such as keeping cattle out of wetlands and using off-site water systems that run on solar power. Even still, climate change is waiting in the wings. In recent years, McGrath has noticed increased volatility in weather patterns—extreme weather events, drastic temperature fluctuations—that makes managing the herd and the land more difficult. When faced with this stark reality, it’s encouraging to see his passion for sustainability. But do these sorts of practices actually have a tangible impact on reducing beef’s environmental footprint? IT’S NO SECRET THAT the global beef industry contributes to a host of environmental concerns, including greenhouse gas (GHG) emissions—starting with methane gas. As ruminants, cattle are able to digest large amounts of grass, but in order to derive nutrients from it, they have to chew, swallow and bring it up several times. During that

process, they expel methane gas through belching, some of which gets released into the atmosphere and contributes to global warming. (Over a 20-year period, methane traps 84 times more heat than carbon dioxide does.) The Food and Agriculture Organization of the United Nations reports that the livestock sector accounts for 14.5 percent of all global manmade GHG emissions; cattle, in particular, contribute to 65 percent of livestock’s emissions. In 2019, Canada’s total GHG emissions totalled 730 megatonnes of carbon dioxide equivalent—a figure that has seen a net decrease of 1.1 percent since 2005. Agriculture, including crops and livestock, accounts for 10 percent of our total emissions. Emissions specifically from livestock digestion are responsible for 3.3 percent of that figure. Canada has committed to reaching net-zero emissions by 2050, and some improvements have been made in the beef industry. A study from the University of Manitoba and the Canadian federal government compared Canadian beef production GHG emissions from 1981 to 2011, and found that the amount of GHG produced per kilogram of beef declined by 14 percent over those three decades. But there are other issues. Globally, cattle raised for dairy and beef cause significant water pollution, due to runoff from manure that ends up in surrounding waterways. Management practices, like those McGrath employs, can reduce water pollution, but not all farmers use them. The sheer amount of land required to raise cattle also leads to another consequence of the industry: deforestation, which results in the destruction of habitats and loss of biodiversity.

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SUSTAINABILITY

Canada’s grasslands store

two to three billion tons of carbon in their root systems and soil, preventing it from entering the atmosphere.

Beef emissions, by the numbers 54

Deforestation is especially concerning in places like the Amazon rainforest, where 17 percent of the forest has been destroyed in the last 50 years, largely due to human activity. Claudia Wagner-Riddle, an environmental science researcher and professor at the University of Guelph, says this speciﬁc problem is one that’s more global in scope: “In Canada, deforestation happened hundreds of years ago, so it’s not a current issue.” Still, when beef is compared to plant-based protein sources, the diﬀerences in the resources required for production are glaring. The World Resources Institute reports that beef production requires a whopping 20 times more land per unit of protein, compared with what’s needed to grow crops like lentils or beans. Given the environmental toll beef takes, there’s a strong argument to be made for eliminating it from our diets altogether. Kaitlyn Mitchell, a lawyer at Animal Justice—Canada’s only national animal law advocacy organization—points to a 2020 study from the University of Michigan and Tulane University that says that the United States alone could save 2.4 billion tons of GHG emissions by 2030 if beef consumption were cut by 90 percent, and all other meat and dairy were cut by 50 percent. “The science is clear that we have to eliminate, or at least drastically reduce, our consumption of beef in particular,” says Mitchell. This is in line with the EAT-Lancet Commission’s planetary health diet, which was developed by scientists to provide dietary recommendations that are good for our health and the planet’s. It says that we should be eating no more than 98 grams of red meat (pork, beef or lamb) each week. But Canadians still eat a hefty—though declining—amount of beef. In the past 40 years, annual consumption has decreased by just over 10 kilograms per person, from 28.72 kilograms in 1980 to 18.03 kilograms in 2020. “What we’re noticing is that Canadians are still fully committed to beef,” says Sylvain Charlebois, director of the Agri-Food Analytics Lab at Dalhousie University. Even with this long-term decrease, our 2020 consumption habits clock in at 347 grams per week, more than three times the EAT-Lancet recommendation.

Cattle—both beef and dairy—account for 65 percent of the livestock sector’s global greenhouse gas (GHG) emissions.

CHATELAINE • MARCH/APRIL 2022

Cows emit methane, which traps 84 times more heat than carbon dioxide does over a 20-year period.

WITH MANY CANADIANS seemingly unwilling to give up red meat, sustainable beef might— in theory—make an impact. The term is defined by the Global Roundtable for Sustainable Beef (GRSB) as “a socially responsible, environmentally sound and economically viable product that prioritizes planet, people, animals and progress.” The Canadian Roundtable for Sustainable Beef (CRSB), which is a member of the GRSB, operates under a similar definition. “The founding members of the CRSB had a vision to create this collaborative space for sustainability conversations, with the idea of continual improvement in beef production in Canada,” says Anne Wasko, CRSB chair and co-owner of Bar 4 Bar Land and Cattle Inc. in Eastend, Sask. “As beef producers, we want Canadians to know that we all share the concern about the climate.” Given that factors like soil and weather vary across provinces, Wasko notes sustainability can look different from one ranch to another. However, the CRSB does have a certification program to recognize such practices. Cattle producers can voluntarily have their operations audited by a third party to see if they qualify for certification, which consists of meeting requirements across five categories, including natural resources, community impacts, and animal health and welfare. The requirements include specific criteria, such as providing adequate space for cattle to move freely and access feed and water. Other requirements, however, are less precise, such as making an effort to reduce waste and being aware of carbon sequestration practices (more on this later). In 2018, the United States Roundtable for Sustainable Beef (USRSB) was called out in a letter signed by more than 50 organizations, including representatives from the American Grassfed Association and the Johns Hopkins Center for a Livable Future. They called the USRSB’s assessment guidelines “vague, weak and inadequate for reducing and minimizing impacts and enabling vitally needed progress.” Animal Justice’s Mitchell says the CRSB has the same problem, and that their requirements simply don’t set the bar high enough. “The CRSB’s certification requirements are vague in many respects, so it really opens the door to greenwashing and humanewashing,

Most of the methane cows release is through burping, not farting. One cow can produce up to 220 pounds of methane per year.

In the United States alone, 2.4 billion tons of GHG emissions could be saved by 2030 if humans ate radically fewer animal products.

WASKO PHOTO, COURTESY OF ANNE WASKO. MITCHELL PHOTO, SHANNON NICKERSON/ANIMAL JUSTICE.

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duping consumers into supporting an industry that has truly devastating environmental impacts,” says Mitchell. “Efforts to legitimize sustainable beef production using weak performance measures, in effect, gives the beef industry social licence to continue their operations.” Since the CRSB’s certification program launched in 2017, some big names have pledged to source a portion of their beef from CRSB-certified sources, including McDonald’s Canada, Harvey’s and Walmart. Wasko says an estimated 17 percent of Canadian cattle herds are on CRSB-certified ranches and farms, like her own. However, not all farms that employ sustainable practices are certified. “I’ve got neighbours that do exactly the same thing as we do, but they’re not certified or audited,” she says. Likewise, McGrath’s ranch is certified through a different organization, Verified Beef Production Plus (VBP+), which launched in 2016 and grew out of an educational program initially started by the Canadian Cattlemen’s Association. VBP+ is now a certification body for the CRSB, and ranches and farms that have achieved VBP+ certification are also recognized as CRSB-certified. Mitchell says that a lack of across-the-board standards is part of the problem: “We just don’t have any true regulatory standards in Canada right now to allow people to understand, in a meaningful way, where their meat or other animal products are coming from, how they were made and what the environmental implications of those products are,” she says. Aside from the CRSB, the Canadian beef industry as a whole is working toward a number of sustainability goals—including maintaining native grasslands, guarding wetlands and reducing GHG emissions by 33 percent on every kilogram of beef produced—by 2030. The goals were developed by seven national beef organizations, including Canada Beef and the CRSB. “I would call these robust action items [with] very specific timelines,” says Wasko, noting that progress will be assessed through a scientific study. An update is slated to come in the CRSB’s 2023 National Beef Sustainability Assessment report. (These industry-wide goals, it’s worth noting, are not mandatory.) Wagner-Riddle says it’s a positive thing that the industry has created the GHG targets, and that sometimes a lack of specifics allows flexibility. “In general when organizations set targets, they don’t want to be overly prescriptive, because we do have such a variation in farms, soil and climate, so how we get there, we need to leave a bit open,” she says. “One farmer may be able to achieve [emissions] reductions through feed quality, while another farmer may do so by improving soil carbon sequestration.”

MAINTAINING CANADA’S native grasslands— which are home to an estimated two to three billion tons of carbon—is perhaps the most compelling argument for beef sustainability. “We don’t raise cattle as much as we grow grass,” says Bryan Gilvesy, who owns and operates Y U Ranch in Tillsonburg, Ont. (Gilvesy’s ranch employs sustainable practices but is not CRSBcertified.) “There’s a relationship between livestock and grass that is beneficial for both.” The grass Gilvesy is talking about just happens to be part of one of the world’s most endangered ecosystems. According to the Nature Conservancy of Canada, it’s estimated that more than 70 percent of Canada’s Prairie grasslands have already been lost. “One thing that’s missing in conversations about where we’re going as a planet is the importance of grasslands as an ecotype. We cannot afford to lose our grasslands,” says Gilvesy. “And if you look at the relationship between the grasslands and how bison used those grasslands . . . we’re just trying to mimic those natural systems.” These systems have been in play for hundreds of years, says Wagner-Riddle, noting that much of the carbon originally stored in the soil was put there by plants through a process known as carbon sequestration. “Plants uptake carbon dioxide from the atmosphere through photosynthesis, which goes into the plant biomass then into the roots, and when that material dies off, it becomes part of the soil’s organic matter,” says Wagner-Riddle. “It’s important that the soil doesn’t get disturbed [because] if you overwork the soil and kill the grass, then that carbon is returned to the atmosphere.” Cattle can help this process by eating the grass (in effect harvesting it), which initiates more growth. When cattle excrete, they also fertilize the land by providing certain nutrients that the plants need, which helps the roots store more carbon in the soil over time. If cattle are moved to different grazing areas regularly, it gives the grass time to regrow and complete this cycle. The quality of grass can have an impact on sustainability, too. “If something they’re eating is of poor quality, they have to [chew and swallow] it over and over again to get any nutrition out of it, bringing up more methane,” says Wagner-Riddle. “But if it’s good-quality grass, that’s more sustainable in the sense that their emissions are reduced.” Wagner-Riddle notes, however, that if cattle were hypothetically removed from this equation and the grasslands left undisturbed, the carbon would stay there. But Nature Canada reports that much of Canada’s native grasslands are on land owned by farmers and ranchers, so simply leaving the land alone is not a realistic solution.

SUSTAINABILITY

“As beef producers, we want Canadians to know that we all share the concern about the climate.” — Anne Wasko, chair of the Canadian Roundtable for Sustainable Beef

“Efforts to legitimize sustainable beef production using weak performance measures, in effect, gives the beef industry social licence to continue their operations.” — Kaitlyn Mitchell, Animal Justice

According to the EAT-Lancet Commission’s planetary health diet, we should be eating no more than

98 grams of red meat (beef, pork or lamb) each week.

MARCH/APRIL 2022 • CHATELAINE

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SUSTAINABILITY

Over three decades, the GHG produced per kilogram of Canadian beef decreased by

14%.

“There isn’t a more responsible use of those lands,” says Johanna Wandel, associate professor of geography and environmental management at the University of Waterloo. “You shouldn’t be plowing them, and you can’t really use them for crop production because they don’t have the right conditions. So it’s a very compatible land use.” Just how much rotational grazing offsets cattle’s GHG footprint, however, is up for debate. Farmers for Climate Solutions, a national farmer-led coalition, estimated in a 2021 report that a potential 302,000 tonnes of carbon dioxide equivalent could be mitigated during the 2021–23 growing seasons if rotational grazing were adopted at a rate of five percent per year. (It also noted that infrastructure and planning would be needed to support widespread implementation.) According to the CRSB, there’s currently no practical way for individual farmers to measure their on-farm carbon balance obtained through sustainable practices, though it says it does track how much carbon is stored in land managed by Canadian beef producers nationwide. However, it’s important to point out that the CRSB does not currently require carbon sequestration practices like rotational grazing to be implemented for a farm to achieve certification. Instead, only awareness of such practices is necessary. “The CRSB adopts a continuous improvement model,” says Wasko. “There are 24 indicators in the program, encompassing all areas of beef sustainability—carbon is one of [them]. We know that starting with awareness then shifting to adoption leads to more successful outcomes.” Wasko says the CRSB is reviewing the program and is open to feedback, but Mitchell thinks that carbon sequestration should have been a priority from the start. “Sustainability should be something that actually has teeth and is meaningful, but when we have pivotal environmental problems and all that they’re requiring is awareness of those problems . . . that’s not sustainability,” she says. “When you really get down into the details and look at [the requirements], there’s not a lot that’s targeted and measurable. And I don’t think that consumers understand that.” WHEN GRASSLANDS ARE properly cared for, it can have a positive ripple effect on the entire ecosystem. Both Gilvesy and McGrath are involved in a program known as ALUS, which helps farmers protect and enhance the ecosystems on their land. This might include things like creating pollinator habitats or filtering water to reduce pollution. “[All of this] contributes to a resilient food system, especially in the face of climate change,” says Gilvesy. Creating resilient food systems is certainly positive. But one major drawback—both nationally and globally—is that we simply do not

CHATELAINE • MARCH/APRIL 2022

have enough land to raise all beef sustainably at current consumption levels. “Shifting to grassfed cattle to solve the climate crisis won’t get us anywhere, and, in fact, you’d see clearing of land that should be forest, for grazing,” says Wandel. And that brings us back to the fact that we just can't keep eating as much beef as we have been. “Even when cows are farmed using low-impact methods, the production of beef still results in more GHG emissions than even the highest-impact plant protein,” says Mitchell. “What we’re talking about here is not just tweaking things, but drastically changing our farming methods while also drastically reducing the amount of [animal] products we’re consuming.” And so—if one thing’s certain—it’s that the problem is complicated, and striking a balance is likely the most realistic solution for most of us. If we can reduce the overall amount of animal products we consume and buy fewer but more sustainable versions of those products, we can reduce our individual impact. “I don’t think the beef industry and our current consumption habits can be defended in the climate crisis, but I’m not all or nothing,” says Wandel. “Beef as something we’re entitled to five nights a week? I think it’s indefensible. But eating beef generally, as part of a sustainable lifestyle, is totally defensible.” Wagner-Riddle also notes that we can’t just zero in on one thing when it comes to how our actions affect the environment: “[If you’re] eating less meat but still wasting food and energy, driving everywhere . . . [climate change] is just such a complex problem and we can’t focus on one solution.” If eating sustainable beef is a part of the solution for you, then the best place to look for it is at a nearby farm, if possible. You can also check with farmers’ markets and locally owned butcher shops or grocery stores to see if they stock beef from local and sustainable sources. Either way, it’s important to ask questions, like what the ranch is doing to sequester carbon or reduce water pollution, to ensure it actually meets your sustainability expectations. “You’ve got to do your own homework,” says Gilvesy. “There’s a lot of language that’s used rather liberally in marketing to beef consumers. Make sure you’re not being greenwashed.” Yes, sustainably raised beef may cost more than conventionally raised, but, as with many consumer items, cheaper products often come with greater long-term environmental costs. “If you’re purchasing something that’s not sustainable—beef or otherwise—you are deferring those costs to society and the environment,” adds McGrath. “In the overarching big picture, it has to be sustainable to be affordable. There is no other option.”

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FIFTH ESTATE

There’s no reconciliation without truth MY ARREST WHILE REPORTING ON THE WET’SUWET’EN PIPELINE PROTESTS IS PART OF A LARGER PATTERN OF POLICE SUPPRESSING JOURNALISTS WHO COVER STORIES ABOUT INDIGENOUS RESISTANCE—AND IT NEEDS TO STOP Words and photography by AMBER BRACKEN

CHATELAINE • MARCH/APRIL 2022

SOME OF THE ﬁrst advice I was given as a baby journalist was: “Don’t get arrested. You can’t make any pictures from the back of a police car.” This maxim has served me for most of my 14-year career, which has taken me into zones of conﬂict and protest across North America. But last winter, while documenting opposition to Coastal GasLink’s building of a pipeline at a protest site called Coyote Camp near Houston, B.C.—an issue I’d been covering for three years—the RCMP made that impossible for me. I could not both avoid arrest and continue to cover a story of national importance. Instead, I was forced to become part of it. For more than a decade, Wet’suwet’en hereditary chiefs have directed an occupation of this site, which is a fraction of their 22,000-square-kilometre traditional territory. It’s culturally important land, home to glacial headwaters for salmon and habitat for moose. It is newly crossed by roads that cut all the way through to the west coast, and tunnelling under Wedzin Kwa, their river, is imminent. Unist’ot’en spokesperson Howihkat (Freda Huson) told me the only way to make the government and industry respect her nation’s rights is to claim the land in the same way settlers did—to occupy it.

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FIFTH ESTATE

Last November, photojournalist Amber Bracken was arrested by the RCMP while covering Wet’suwet’en protests of the Coastal GasLink pipeline for The Narwhal. She recounted the experience for The Narwhal last winter; now we’re bringing that story to you, with photographs of her time at Coyote Camp.

THIS PAGE: Police breach a locked house at Coyote Camp in Gidimt’en territory near Houston, B.C. The Gidimt’en clan had held the camp, near Coastal GasLink’s pipeline and drill site, since September 2021.

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FIFTH ESTATE

A crowd of police, including militarized officers, approach the house that Gidimt’en spokesperson Sleydo’ (Molly Wickham), her supporters and two journalists had locked themselves into. After breaking down the door, everyone inside the house—including Bracken, who took this photo— was arrested.

Bracken documenting police enforcement in Unist’ot’en Village in 2020.

Headlines celebrated my release as Gidimt’en supporters sat in jail cells. 60

CHATELAINE • MARCH/APRIL 2022

I was documenting as Gidimt’en spokesperson Sleydo’ (Molly Wickham) and her supporters locked themselves inside a tiny house adjacent to the pipeline right-of-way. With us in the cramped space was Michael Toledano, a freelance reporter filming a documentary for the CBC. After the RCMP arrived by helicopter, they surrounded the building, cut the cords for wi-fi and radio, and then broke down the door with an axe. Chunks of wood flew across the small space before they switched to a chainsaw. As soon as there was a big enough hole, they pointed weapons at the unarmed group standing inside with hands raised. The scene has since become known across Canada. Just outside, a dog barked incessantly as police arrested everyone—including me. “I’m a member of the media,” I stated clearly. But one police officer responded, “Well, you’re under arrest right now, so step out.” It didn’t matter that The Narwhal, the publication I had been reporting for, had notified the RCMP ahead of time that I would be on site. Or that I was displaying a press pass. Or that the RCMP had already been tracking me as a journalist. They knew what I was doing there. My arrest, and those of other media covering Wet’suwet’en that day, is part of a pattern of police interference with reporting on Indigenous resistance movements. As I was escorted away from the camp, I was pained by all the photos I couldn’t take: the mountain forest road lined with Coastal GasLink trucks and heavy machinery. The worker who waved to RCMP officers as we drove by. A Gitxsan woman holding her cedar headpiece in her hands, a discordant echo of the two steel handcuffs on her wrists. Eyes peering through food slots and cheeks pressed against the floor, straining to see and hear past heavy metal doors in a series of cellblocks from Houston to Smithers to, finally, Prince George, B.C. In all, 30 people were arrested at that opposition over the course of two days. We were charged with breach of injunction. If the charges had been criminal (i.e., more serious), we would have been afforded the right to see a judge within 24 hours, where I could have signed release conditions and regained my freedom. Instead, police officers took most of our clothes, denied us soap and toothbrushes, and detained us for days in cold cells. We all listened as

Bracken photograph by AMANDA FOLLETT HOSGOOD

Wet’suwet’en, Gitxsan and traditional struggle songs reverberated through the metal and concrete halls, their rounds of harmony transforming the cellblocks into cathedrals of the human spirit. I was released from Prince George, B.C., four days later and four and a half hours away from where I had been arrested. I had to literally dig my personal belongings out of the wreckage from Coyote Camp, which had been scooped up with heavy machinery and dumped along with ice, rocks and mud at the bottom of the mountain. I came home to notes of concern and solidarity from other journalists in Canada who had been through similar experiences. On one of my first freedom calls, I was asked, “How does it feel to be treated like a native?” My good friend, who is Indigenous, was proud of me for following the story, but her joke made a clear point: Indigenous people are criminalized like this every day, and most of those arrested were treated far worse than I was. Officers cut a medicine bag and ripped cedar regalia off Sleydo’—she says it was the only time she cried during the whole experience. They put her in a cell alone to worry about her kids, since her husband had also been arrested. Two racialized trans women were asked invasive questions about their bodies, denied medication several times, and put into the men’s side of prison

Sleydo’ (Molly Wickham) peers out of a locked house in Coyote Camp, watching police move in.

and addressed using male pronouns. When I was released, headlines across the world celebrated my freedom, even as Sleydo’, the two trans women and several other supporters still sat in the Prince George correctional centre. They would be released a day later, but not before Sleydo’ says Coastal GasLink lawyers questioned her Wet’suwet’en identity through her lawyer and the Wet’suwet’en identity of Chief Woos’ daughter Jocey Alec in court.

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FIFTH ESTATE

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FIFTH ESTATE

Hereditary chiefs oversee the eviction of Coastal GasLink workers from the camp in Wet’suwet’en territory near Houston, B.C., on Saturday, January 4, 2020. Front, left to right: Dinï ze’ Knedebeas, Warner William; Dinï ze’ Hagwilnegh, Ron Mitchell; Dinï ze’ Woos, Frank Alec; Dinï ze’ Madeek, Jeff Brown; and Dinï ze’ Gisday’wa, Fred Tom. Back: Dinï ze’ Ste ohn tsiy, Rob Alfred.

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FIFTH ESTATE

In an era enamoured with the concept of reconciliation, images of militarized oﬃcers wielding advanced weapons are uncomfortable for the RCMP and the Canadian government.

My experience of jail is not unique, but RCMP efforts to suppress press freedom— especially around stories that focus on Indigenous issues—is critically important in this moment. The public record of what happens in Wet’suwet’en territory should be beyond police interference. The arrest of Indigenous Peoples on their land concerns every single person in Canada, as we wrestle with our collective history and future. THE WET’SUWET’EN NATION has never signed a treaty or ceded their territory, a swath of land the size of New Jersey. In 1997, the Supreme Court of Canada affirmed this fact in Delgamuukw v. British Columbia, a case brought by Wet’suwet’en and Gitxsan hereditary chiefs against the province. In the case, the hereditary chiefs established that the Wet’suwet’en have a system of Indigenous law that predates the existence of elected band councils, which was imposed along with the Indian Act and the reservation system. Within Wet’suwet’en law, hereditary chiefs hold responsibility for territorial lands—and it’s these chiefs who are the forces leading the opposition to the Coastal GasLink pipeline. Although much has been made of the elected chiefs who vocally support the pipeline project and the benefit agreements they’ve signed, the question of whether or not the project’s approval is in violation of Wet’suwet’en rights has not been resolved in the courts. The hereditary chiefs maintain, however, that the pipeline being forced through their territory is in violation of Wet’suwet’en law. Elected Wet’suwet’en chiefs fulfill a crucial role for their communities on multiple reserves. But the Coastal GasLink pipeline route doesn’t cross Wet’suwet’en reserve

CHATELAINE • MARCH/APRIL 2022

land; it crosses traditional territory where hereditary chiefs are tasked with ancient responsibilities, and where they have been recognized as stakeholders by B.C.’s Supreme Court. Despite the staunch opposition of the hereditary chiefs, the government has permitted a project through the most intact portion of Wet’suwet’en territory without consent—and the RCMP has been directed by the courts to suppress pipeline opposition, a task they’ve taken on with paramilitary force. REGARDLESS OF WHO has a right to consent to the project, the RCMP’s show of force against Wet’suwet’en occupation camps—and the suppression of related coverage—is in itself worth talking about. Over the last three years, police with authority to use lethal force have arrested more than 60 people on behalf of Coastal GasLink. In an era enamoured with the concept of reconciliation, this reality—and the images of militarized officers wielding advanced weapons that accompany it— is uncomfortable for the RCMP and Canadian government. British Columbia recently passed its two-year anniversary of codifying Indigenous rights in the Declaration on the Rights of Indigenous Peoples Act. Last June, Canada implemented the United Nations Declaration on the Rights of Indigenous Peoples, which calls for free, prior and informed consent of natural resource and development projects on Indigenous lands. With Canada’s Minister of CrownIndigenous Relations Marc Miller saying things like “It’s time to give land back,” as he pledged in a press conference last October, it’s no wonder Canadians and Indigenous Peoples are experiencing a kind of reconciliation disorientation. Stories that fit the comfortable reconciliation narrative are easier for reporters to tell. I’ve never seen tactical weapons at a press conference announcing a benefits agreement between an industry company and a First Nation. To my knowledge, no journalist has ever been arrested while reporting on new federal funding for Indigenous protected areas, or when politicians are included in First Nations’ ceremonies.

life

Like many companies, Coastal GasLink runs a sophisticated press strategy. Its narrative—of economic benefit for all, including nearby First Nations— gets coverage in the regular news grind, often generated by industrysupplied press releases. It’s much more difficult to report unmediated stories about the pipeline’s impact. I’ve talked to multiple journalists who have also been frustrated by their interactions with company spokespeople. And forget about any unsupervised conversation with workers or consistent access to see what’s actually unfolding on project sites and in construction zones. To get a full understanding of what actually happens to Indigenous people who assert land rights or challenge official narratives, it’s critical for every Canadian to have the opportunity to see what’s happening on the ground.

FIFTH ESTATE

From left, Gitxsan supporter Wilpspoocxw Lax Gibuu (Shaylynne Sampson) and Sleydo’ (Molly Wickham) watch an RCMP helicopter circling Coyote Camp on November 18, 2021. It was the 54th day the group held a blockade to prevent tunnelling under the Wedzin Kwa, or Morice River, the glacial source of their drinking water. Hereditary chiefs evicted Coastal GasLink workers from their territory in January 2020 and authorized a renewed enforcement of that eviction order in November 2021.

THE MOST FAMOUS photograph of a standoff between Canadian military and Indigenous land defenders—the young military man facing off with an Anishinaabe warrior at Oka, Que., in 1990—was taken by a photographer named Shaney Komulainen. Not many people realize she was arrested, stripsearched and detained for five hours as she left the scene. Army operatives

MARCH/APRIL 2022 • CHATELAINE

life

FIFTH ESTATE

Left to right: Haudenosaunee supporters Logan Staats, Teka’tsihasere (Corey Jocko) and Skyler Williams ride a CGL excavator as they help close the road in Gidimt’en territory. After hereditary chiefs served an eviction order to more than 500 CGL workers and subcontractors at two camps, only a small handful of workers left.

tried their best to discredit Komulainen and the other journalists who ventured inside the razor wire. Months after her arrest, Komulainen was charged with possession of a weapon or an imitation of a weapon, threatening and interfering with the work of a peace agent and participating in a riot.

CHATELAINE • MARCH/APRIL 2022

Komulainen says she had so much pent-up emotion from the months of the trial that she surprised herself by bawling, instead of celebrating, when the “not guilty” verdict was read. At the 1995 Gustafsen Lake standoff, a dispute over land rights for a Secwépemc Sun Dance ceremony, RCMP responded to the group of 24 protesters with at least 400 heavily armed officers. No media was present when, on September 11, the situation culminated in a 45-minute firefight, during which police deployed buried explosives and thousands of rounds of ammunition. Despite the incredible show of militarized police force and continued calls for an official inquiry, there is no public record of that day. Gustafsen Lake remains one of the most obscured Indigenous land rights disputes in Canada. In 2016, Justin Brake, working as a freelancer for The Independent, followed a group of Inuit and their supporters into Muskrat Falls, a dam site in central Labrador, and spent several days inside as the occupation stopped work on the project. When an injunction accused him of trespassing, Brake had to decide if he would face arrest in order to cover the story. He decided to leave before police enforced the injunction, but was still burdened with civil

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FIFTH ESTATE

To get a full understanding of what actually happens to Indigenous people who assert land rights or challenge oﬃcial narratives, it’s critical for every Canadian to have the opportunity to see what’s really happening on the ground.

and criminal charges. When the civil charges were dismissed in 2019 in the Newfoundland and Labrador Court of Appeal, the ruling affirmed the rights of journalists in Canada to report from injunction zones, like I did. In his judgment, Justice Derek Green outlined specific parameters that apply to journalists following newsworthy stories. He emphasized that “particular consideration should be given to protests involving Aboriginal issues.” Most recently, the ongoing protest against old-growth logging at Fairy Creek, B.C., became notorious for RCMP harassing and unreasonably restricting journalists. The situation was so bad that a coalition of media organizations launched a successful legal challenge last year against the RCMP’s illegal suppression of press freedoms at Fairy Creek. On July 20, 2021, B.C. Supreme Court Justice Douglas Thompson addressed the RCMP practice of creating exclusion zones and media access points, stating the “geographically extensive” areas weren’t necessary for police operations. He also reminded the RCMP of “the media’s special role in a free and democratic society, and the necessity of avoiding undue and unnecessary interference with the journalistic function.” Less than a month later, Victoria Buzz photojournalist Colin Smith was arrested at Fairy Creek and detained in the back of a prisoner transport in the hot sun. As he became claustrophobic—feeling faint, sweating and visibly shaking—Smith says an officer advised him to take deep breaths but didn’t open the doors. Eventually Smith was released without charges, but the experience left a mark. At least two other independent media photographers were also arrested and detained at Fairy Creek, and many more have been threatened or severely limited. The constant threat of arrest has a dampening effect on reporting. Karyn Pugliese, now at the CBC, was at APTN when she led the network to intervene in Brake’s case back in 2016. In an interview with Canadaland, Pugliese spoke about her anxieties as an assigning editor, forced to contend with escalating police tactics as she sends journalists into the field: “What if [that person] ends up in jail? I’m responsible for that. What if I can’t protect [them]?” Coastal GasLink dropped its civil charges against Toledano and me just before Christmas—but there is no doubt in my mind that my arrest was intended to frighten, humiliate and deter me from continuing to cover this story.

ONE OF THE MORE surreal moments of this experience was at the Prince George courthouse, where I was brought after three nights in cells. When it was my turn to see the judge, sheriffs escorted me in socked feet down a series of hallways and through a narrow staircase. At the end, a door abruptly opened from the echoing gloom onto a bright room hushed by thick red carpet and courtroom protocol. After days without a shower or fresh clothes, the sweatshirt and long underwear I’d been arrested in were filthy. They had taken my glasses, my hair tie and my bra. I felt indecent; I wouldn’t have opened the door for a delivery driver dressed like that. The oak-panelled room held very few observers. But everyone else was fully clothed, as were the sheriffs and the court reporter. Justice Marguerite Church presided from the raised bench in her black judge’s robes as I sat barely dressed and cold in the prisoner’s box. I was supposed to feel small. But my arrest makes me feel part of a national reckoning with press freedoms, and what reconciliation means for how Canada tells stories about Indigenous resistance. I am not alone in this work, or in dealing with the fallout. Many more have said it: “truth before reconciliation.” But that can’t happen if journalists are routinely criminalized in pursuit of this truth. Indigenous people are shouting to be heard, our courts affirm the rights of journalists to access and report on these issues, and yet we let police be the arbiters of this crucial conversation. Police put me in handcuffs when I should have been doing my job. I wanted to be doing my job. And I am furious.

MARCH/APRIL 2022 • CHATELAINE

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We love the richness of Earth Balance Buttery Spread for these Hot Cross Buns. $6, plantx.ca. BUILD YOUR OWN PLANTBASED THALI FEAST

page 80

RECIPE, CAMILLA WYNNE. PRODUCED BY STEPHANIE HAN KIM. MAIN PHOTO, ERIK PUTZ. FOOD STYLING, RYAN BARCLAY. PROP STYLING, MADELEINE JOHARI.

Get the recipe for these vegan buns on P 79.

[ SPRINGTIME BAKING ]

Morning glory These rich buns are redolent with spice, full of currants and raisins, and glistening with maple syrup. A whole cooked orange lends moisture and ﬂavour, and is a great alternative to store-bought candied peel (though feel free to throw in some homemade peel, if you have it). The ﬁrst or second rise can be done in the fridge overnight; just bring the dough to room temperature before proceeding. Halve leftovers before freezing and toast without thawing. —Camilla Wynne

MARCH/APRIL 2022 • CHATELAINE

food

LET’S HAVE A DRINK

FULL CIRCLE

Repurposed potato scraps cut this vibrant cocktail’s carbon footprint down to size Recipe by CHRISTINE SISMONDO

The Rescue Op Made with Loop gin, a zero-waste spirit that’s distilled from “rescued” scraps from a potato chip factory in Quebec, this cocktail is a fresh and bright mix of basil, citrus, ginger and elderﬂower.

oz Loop Lime & Ginger Gin✤ oz St-Germain Elderﬂower Liqueur

oz mandarin orange juice

oz lemon juice

basil leaves

dashes Dillon’s Hot Pepper Bitters (optional)

sprig basil, for garnish

bird’s-eye chili, for garnish

1. Add gin, liqueur, orange and lemon juices, and basil leaves to a cocktail shaker. Gently muddle the basil to coax the ﬂavour out. Add ice and shake well. 2 . Strain into a chilled cocktail glass. If you like

spice, add hot pepper bitters—or any bitters if you don’t have a spicy version on hand. Garnish with basil and bird’s-eye chili. ✤ If Loop is unavailable, you can mimic its ﬂavour proﬁle by adding a few drops of ginger juice and a splash of lime to another citrus-forward gin, such as Tanqueray.

WHAT A PAIR We asked wine pro Vidal Wu and beer sommelier Crystal Luxmore to play matchmaker for some of the recipes in this issue. Here are their tasty, green-ish picks

Tatamagouche Hippie Dippie Pale Ale + Rice “Bacon” BLT, p 78 Tatamagouche Brewing Co.’s Hippie Dippie is an organic pale ale made with rich, bready Nova Scotia–grown malts that will sync up nicely with the sandwich’s toast. This certiﬁed organic, family-owned brewery keeps its ecological footprint small. tatabrew.com.

CHATELAINE • MARCH/APRIL 2022

Bench Brewing Folklore on Cherries + Mushroom Pulled “Pork” Sandwiches, p 78 The sweet-and-sour tang of this sandwich will bloom with a sour ale—like this Bench beauty, which balances sour cherry and sweet raisin notes. The B Corp brewery is carbon neutral; it also recycles brewery wastewater. shop. benchbrewing.com.

Trail Estate County Chardonnay + Mushroom and Lentil Stroganoff, p 96 Don’t like chardonnay? This one, from Mackenzie Brisbois at Trail Estate Winery, will have you thinking twice. Wild-fermented and bottled without ﬁltration, it balances salty freshness and creamy richness with notes of apple and lemon yogurt. trailestate.com.

Malivoire Farmstead Gamay + Marmite French Onion Soup, p 78 This juicy, mediumbodied gamay from Shiraz Mottiar is ideal for rich French onion soup. Brambly red fruit, white pepper and Madagascar vanilla are followed by a burst of freshness and supple tannins—perfect for weeknight dinners and dinner parties alike. malivoire.com.

FULL CIRCLE PRODUCED BY STEPHANIE HAN KIM. PHOTO, ERIK PUTZ. FOOD STYLING, RYAN BARCLAY. PROP STYLING, MADELEINE JOHARI.

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MEMOIR

Thrill of the hunt Putting food on the table in the Arctic is not easy— but catching it myself is always worth it Written by SHEILA FLAHERTY Illustration by SALINI PERERA

first heard of Sukanga, a small glacier-fed lake 320 km north of Iqaluit, Nunavut, the year my husband, Johnny, and I became a couple. In April 2008, he called me to tell me about a trip he’d taken with a dear friend. That winter, the fishing for Arctic char was unbelievable, he said: fish after fish on the hook, with sweet, fatty meat that was so deep red. I was living in Ottawa at the time, and it sounded amazing. It took six years, a move to Nunavut and buying a second-hand Polaris 600 snowmobile that burped fumes before I saw it in person. Johnny hails from Grise Fiord, Nunavut, Canada’s northernmost community. From a very early age, he learned how to hunt and harvest wild foods. I’m of Inuvialuk heritage and grew up in the Ottawa area; aside from butchering a deer in a friend’s Vanier backyard (a whole other story), my hunting experience was quite limited. But once I moved to Iqaluit in 2010, I was immersed in a subsistence lifestyle practically overnight. Johnny and I started with day trips, and sometimes overnight camping trips, for hunting and fishing, but always stuck close to Iqaluit. As a beginner sled driver, I was quite slow. My husband wondered if there’d ever be a day when I would be able to follow him at the speeds he was accustomed to. In April 2014, I finally made my first trip to Sukanga with Johnny and eight others on their own snowmobiles and qamutiik, traditional sleds that carry equipment over large distances. I was incredibly stressed but determined to drive the seven-hour trek through mountainous terrain. When we arrived, I felt accomplished—but like my body had been put through the wringer. We set up the tent and started ice fishing as soon as the men had a chance to drill holes in the ice. And the fishing? It lived up to Johnny’s hype: All it took was dunking a shiny lure into the ice hole and jigging just a little bit to land a huge Arctic char. By the end of the first day, I’d caught about 25 fish. We’ve returned to Sukanga every season we’ve been able to since—and for good reason. The business of putting food on the table in the Arctic is not easy. The supply chain problems that have affected everyone in Canada since late 2021 have hit us harder. They have driven up the region’s already-exorbitant food prices, which need to be subsidized by the Nutrition North Canada program to put them in the realm of affordability. Without it, a four-litre bag of milk would cost nearly $22; it’s currently $5.89, but I’ve seen it go as high as $12. A jug of orange juice currently costs $10, and a box of diapers is almost $55. It’s still hard to make ends meet and put food on the table—let alone nutritious food. Supply chain issues can also limit access to tools that help us harvest our own food. Those of us who rely on boats to harvest

CHATELAINE • MARCH/APRIL 2022

ocean foods, such as ringed seals, belugas and narwhals, have found that it can take up to two years to buy an outboard motor and have it shipped. This reality makes supporting our Inuit way of living all the more crucial. Our traditional foods are nutritious: Every animal and plant we consume is wild, organic and full of vitamins and omega-3 fatty acids that surpass anything found in chicken eggs or olive oil. Sharing our foods is also how we help take care of those who do not have access to the land or ocean. When the pandemic began, many Inuit communities launched programs to give direct financial assistance to individual hunters who share their harvests, as well as to community networks that distribute these foods, especially those that focus special attention on our Elders. The morning after that first fish in 2014, my body ached so much from the previous day’s labour that I barely managed to get out of my sleeping bag. I ventured out into the already bright, sunny day in the early hours of the morning to try my luck at jigging again. As the morning went on, the weather started to deteriorate; the winds picked up and a storm started coming in. Everyone quickly packed up camp and headed to the nearest emergency cabin to wait out the blizzard overnight. As I lay down to sleep that night, I had to pound my upper right arm with my left fist: It was twitching from hooking so many fish. The next morning we started the journey home. It was snowing so hard on the way back that there were times when I couldn’t even see my friend Pat’s bright-red jerry cans tied to the back of her qamutiik. When I started to slow down, my sister-in-law appeared to my left. “You have to keep up!” she yelled. Would I be left behind? Would I freeze to death? These thoughts seem preposterous now, but I was truly that scared. I gunned the throttle and prayed to God, my late mother and all my ancestors to guide me and help me not veer off a cliff or crash into a boulder. We made it home. To this day, not a trip goes by that doesn’t amaze me, or inspire awe. The landscape is so breathtakingly beautiful here. And these days, I can easily keep up. We now have a kakivak, a traditional fish spear, that we used for the first time last year, and it’s so addictive. Regular ice fishing involves dropping your lure through an eight-inch hole and jigging until you feel a tug; unless you lie on your stomach, it’s hard to see fish swim by. When you use a kakivak, the hole is bigger, which accommodates the angle at which you spear and allows you to see the fish easily. The aim is to spear them through the gills, leaving the meat untouched. It is so exhilarating to watch schools of fish swim by. It’s like you want to catch them all.

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MEMOIR

MARCH/APRIL 2022 • CHATELAINE

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HOME COOKING

FOUND: the perfect beer for this dish, P 70.

Plant-based entrees don’t have to rely on store-bought pucks of vegetable protein for ﬂavour and texture—and these delicious dinnertime staples are here to prove it Recipes by IRENE NGO Produced by SUN NGO Food styling by ASHLEY DENTON Prop styling by MADELEINE JOHARI

P 78

CHATELAINE • MARCH/APRIL 2022

P 78

MARCH/APRIL 2022 • CHATELAINE

FOUND: the perfect beer for this dish, P 70.

P 78

CHATELAINE • MARCH/APRIL 2022

food

HOME COOKING

FOUND: the perfect wine for this dish, P 70.

P 78

MARCH/APRIL 2022 • CHATELAINE

food

HOME COOKING

Mushroom Pulled “Pork” Sandwiches

Veggie and Lentil Shepherd’s Pie

Serves 4 Prep 25 min; total 50 min

Serves 4 Prep 25 min; total 1 hr

800 ¼ 1

g king oyster mushrooms, ends trimmed cup canola oil

Filling 2

tbsp olive oil

227-g pkg sliced cremini mushrooms, ﬁnely chopped

tsp smoked paprika

tsp garlic salt

1⁄3

cup store-bought barbecue sauce

small onion, ﬁnely chopped

carrot, ﬁnely chopped

burger buns, split and toasted

garlic cloves, minced

tbsp fresh thyme leaves

540-mL can lentils, drained and rinsed

cups mushroom broth

cup frozen peas

Coleslaw 3

tbsp plant-based mayonnaise

tbsp seasoned rice vinegar

397-g pkg coleslaw mix

1. Position rack in centre of oven and preheat to 400F. 2 . Hold 1 mushroom. With your other hand, use a fork to shred it into long strips. Repeat with remaining mushrooms. Toss shredded mushrooms with oil, paprika and garlic salt in a medium bowl. Season with pepper. 3. Divide mushrooms between 2 baking sheets in a single layer. (The more separation the mushrooms have, the crispier they will get.) 4. Bake, stirring halfway, until mushrooms are crispy and golden around the tips, 25 to 30 min. 5. Coleslaw: Meanwhile, stir mayo with vinegar in a medium bowl. Stir in coleslaw mix until well coated. 6. Stir roasted mushrooms with barbecue sauce in a medium bowl until combined. Fill toasted buns with mushrooms and coleslaw.

CHATELAINE • MARCH/APRIL 2022

tbsp tomato paste

tsp balsamic vinegar

1⁄4

tsp salt

1⁄4

tsp pepper

Mashed Potatoes

Rice “Bacon” BLT

cup large-ﬂake oats

750

3. Potatoes: Meanwhile, combine potatoes with enough water to cover in a medium pot. Bring to a boil and cook until tender, 10 to 12 min. Drain well and return potatoes to pot. Add butter, nutritional yeast, Dijon and ½ tsp salt. Mash until smooth. 4. Position rack in top third of oven and preheat broiler. Transfer ﬁlling to a 9 × 9-in. baking pan. Spread potatoes evenly over ﬁlling. Broil until top starts to brown, 8 to 10 min.

g Yukon Gold potatoes, peeled and cut in ½-in. pieces

Serves 2 Prep 15 min; total 20 min Marinade 1

tbsp soy sauce

tbsp nutritional yeast

tsp maple syrup

1⁄2

tsp molasses

1⁄2

tsp liquid smoke (optional)

cup plant-based butter

tbsp nutritional yeast

rice paper sheets

tbsp Dijon mustard

tbsp canola oil

tsp salt

tbsp plant-based mayonnaise

slices sandwich bread, toasted

lettuce leaves

tomato, sliced

1⁄2

1. Filling: Heat a large frying pan over medium-high. Add oil, and then mushrooms, onion, carrot, garlic and thyme. Cook, stirring occasionally, until mixture looks dry, 8 to 10 min. 2 . Stir in lentils, broth, peas, oats, tomato paste, vinegar, ¼ tsp salt and pepper. Bring to a boil. Reduce heat to medium and cook, stirring occasionally, until oats are tender and mixture is thickened but still saucy, 10 to 12 min.

1. Marinade: Combine soy sauce with nutritional yeast, maple syrup, molasses, liquid smoke and 1 tbsp water in a small bowl. Microwave on high until molasses melts, about 30 sec. Stir to combine. 2 . Place 1 rice paper sheet on a cutting board. Brush top with marinade. Flip, then brush with more marinade. Lay

second sheet overtop. Brush with marinade. Continue stacking to make a 3-sheet stack. (Don’t worry if edges curl up. Use one hand to hold stacks together while brushing with more marinade. Stack will ﬂatten when sheets are moist.) Once ﬂattened, let stand until stack is softened, about 2 min. Push any bubbles from centre outward. Cut into 6 strips, each 1 ½ in. wide. 3. Heat a large non-stick frying pan over medium. Add oil, and then rice paper strips. Cook, pressing down any air bubbles that form, for 3 min. 4. Reduce heat to low. Flip rice paper strips and continue cooking, pressing down on air bubbles and checking bottom every 30 sec, until light golden, about 2 min. Transfer strips to a plate. Let stand for 5 min. (They will crisp up as they cool.) 5. Spread mayo over 2 toast slices. Top with lettuce, tomato and “bacon” strips. Sandwich with remaining toast. Cut each sandwich in half diagonally. Serve immediately. Kitchen tip Stacking 3 layers of rice paper will give this faux bacon a crispy exterior and chewy interior.

Marmite French Onion Soup Serves 4 Prep 20 min; total 1 hr 4

tbsp olive oil, divided

onions (about 750 g), very thinly sliced

sprigs fresh thyme

1⁄3

cup sherry or apera

food

tbsp Dijon mustard

tsp Marmite or Vegemite

tsp ﬁve-spice powder

tsp pepper

900-mL pkg mushroom broth

cup water

demi-baguette, cut in eight ½-in.-thick slices

200

HOME COOKING

g plant-based mozzarellastyle cheese, grated

1. Heat a pot over medium. Add 3 tbsp oil, and then onions and thyme. Cook, stirring occasionally, until very soft and caramelized, 30 to 35 min. Reduce heat if they are browning too quickly. 2 . Add sherry, Dijon, Marmite, five-spice powder and pepper. Stir, scraping up any browned bits from bottom of pot. Pour in broth and water. Bring to a boil. Reduce heat to medium-low and simmer, stirring occasionally, for 10 min. Discard thyme sprigs. 3. Position rack in top third of oven and preheat broiler. Brush both sides of baguette slices with remaining 1 tbsp oil. Arrange on a baking sheet. Broil until toasted, 30 sec to 1 min per side. 4. Place 4 ovenproof soup bowls on another baking sheet. Ladle in soup. Top each with 2 toasts. Top toasts with cheese. Broil until cheese is melted, 1 to 2 min. Sprinkle with more fresh thyme, if desired. Serve immediately. Kitchen tip Marmite and Vegemite are thick, dark, sticky pastes made from yeast extract, a by-product of beer brewing. Marmite is a British food product, while Vegemite hails from Australia. Both are intensely salty and savoury, and add a slight beeflike flavour to mushroom broth. Kitchen tip A mozzarella-style vegan cheese will give you the melty texture that’s typical of French onion soup, but feel free to use any plant-based cheese you prefer.

F r om page 69

Plant-Based Hot Cross Buns Serves 12 Prep 30 min; total 4 hr 30 min Buns 1

navel orange

1⁄3

cup currants

1⁄3

cup golden raisins

2⁄3

cup + 2 tbsp oat milk, divided

3 1⁄2

cups all-purpose ﬂour

tbsp granulated sugar

tsp quick-rise yeast

tsp cinnamon

tsp salt

1⁄2

tsp ground ginger

1⁄2

tsp freshly grated nutmeg

1⁄4

tsp ground cloves

1⁄2

cup vegan butter alternative, such as President’s Choice, at room temperature

tbsp maple syrup, divided

Cross Paste 3 1⁄2

tbsp all-purpose ﬂour tsp vegetable oil

1. Buns: Cover whole orange with water in a medium saucepan and set over high. Bring to a boil. Reduce heat to medium.

Simmer until tender, about 1 hr. Let orange cool completely in water, about 1 hr. Drain orange and transfer to a blender or food processor. Blend until puréed. 2 . Cover currants and raisins with hot water in a small bowl. Set aside. Pour ⅔ cup oat milk into a small saucepan and set over medium. Heat until it reaches 100 to 110F. 3. Combine 3 ½ cups ﬂour, sugar, yeast, cinnamon, salt, ginger, nutmeg and cloves in the bowl of a stand mixer ﬁtted with the dough hook. Add puréed orange, warm oat milk and butter alternative. Beat on low speed until combined, and then increase speed to medium. Knead until dough is smooth and elastic, 5 to 10 min. 4. Drain hydrated currants and raisins. Fold into dough by hand. Cover bowl with plastic, and then a tea towel. Let rise in a warm spot until doubled, about 1 hr. 5. Position rack in centre of oven and preheat to 350F.

Spray a 9 × 13-in. baking pan with vegetable oil, and then line pan with parchment. 6. Turn dough out onto counter and gently deflate. Divide into 12 equal pieces. Roll each piece into a ball. Arrange in prepared pan, evenly spaced in a 3 × 4 formation. Cover with plastic or reusable baking wrap, and then a tea towel. Let buns rise in a warm spot until doubled in size, about 30 min. 7. Whisk remaining 2 tbsp oat milk and 1 tbsp maple syrup in a small bowl. Brush over risen buns. 8. Paste: Combine 3 tbsp flour, oil and 3 tbsp water in a small bowl. Season with salt. Scrape paste into a small piping bag fitted with a round tip. Pipe a cross pattern on tops of buns. 9. Bake until buns are golden-brown, 30 to 35 min. Remove from oven and brush tops with remaining 1 tbsp maple syrup. Set pan on a rack to cool slightly. Serve buns while still warm.

MARCH/APRIL 2022 • CHATELAINE

food

THALI

2 . R A J A S T H A N I PA L A K DA L G A R L I C- S P I C E D S P I N AC H A N D L E N T I L DA L , P 84

A soup-like dal course. 1 . B E D M I A LO O SPICED TURMERIC AND CORIANDER P OTATO C U R RY, P 82

A vegetable curry course.

5 . R OT I 7. PLAIN B A S M AT I R I C E

9. ANDHRA C A R R OT PAC H A D I M A N G O , M U S TA R D A N D C A R R OT C H U T N E Y, P 86

A savoury condiment.

8 . PA R U P P U PAYA S A M S W E E T M O O N G DA L A N D C A S H E W P U D D I N G , P 87

A dessert course.

CHATELAINE • MARCH/APRIL 2022

6 . Q U I C K- P I C K L E D RED ONIONS

food 3. MALABAR M E Z H U K U P U R AT T I MAL ABAR-SPICED C A U L I F LO W E R , P 83

A savoury vegetable course.

THALI

FEAST ON

MAUNIKA GOWARDHAN SHARES HER LOVE OF THE CELEBRATION-ON-A-PLATTER THAT IS THALI

4 . G U J A R AT I VAG H A R A M A K K A I S P I C Y CO R N , P 85

A dry, stir-fried vegetable course.

GROWING UP in Mumbai, Maunika Gowardhan always experienced movement around the dinner table, from quick weeknight meals to Sunday lunch. Her mother, who first inspired her to collect and record recipes, would put down a hearty dish with accompaniments doled out one by one throughout the meal: a soupy dal, then a pickle, then basmati rice topped with warm ghee. She loved when a glass of chilled chaas, a blitzed drink of buttermilk, ginger, cumin and cilantro, chased the food. “Even the most casual of dinners were like living thalis, though you wouldn’t immediately think of them that way,” she says. Now a London, U.K.-based chef and cookbook author, Gowardhan is referring to the formal thali, a Hindi word that denotes both a large round platter on which food is served and a dining format in which a complete multicourse meal is served on a single plate. It’s also the name of her latest cookbook, released in Canada on March 22, which is a compendium of recipes from across India that represent different regions and home-cooking styles. Think of thali as a feast on a platter; smaller portions of multiple dishes served in little bowls. As Gowardhan points out, a thali’s composition has historic roots in Ayurvedic nutrition and taste principles, incorporating ingredients that feature sweet, sour, salty, pungent, bitter and astringent flavours. Often celebratory in nature and breathtaking in variety, thalis highlight the flavours and cooking techniques of a region, or the best of what a restaurant has to offer.

I grew up in a half-Goan family, and restaurants were exclusively how I experienced thalis. They were a treat I looked forward to as much as diner-style breakfast platters or the Pizza Hut sundae bar—the highest praise a child of ’90s suburban Toronto can heap on a meal. For years, that’s where they remained in my mind: too extravagant to cook myself. Bridging this distinction between restaurant fare and home cooking is what makes Thali such a useful resource and a joy to read. Gowardhan’s recipes, amassed through years of research and travel, can easily be scaled up or down. “The stir-fried chapter is a perfect gateway for something quick and delicious,” she says, “served alongside a vegetarian curry or even just a recipe from the dal chapter.” There are also prompts for incorporating leftovers and pantry items. From the book’s deep dive into the history of thali to its fresh preparations of vegetables—the malabar-spiced cauliflower is deceptively simple for how complex its flavours are—it’s not difficult to see why nearly a quarter of a million people follow Gowardhan on Instagram for cooking inspiration. The thali Gowardhan has shared with us isn’t regionally specific, but rather recipes from across India that are mostly plant-based by nature— dishes that feature pulses and vegetables as star ingredients. “A lot of Indian food is inherently vegan,” she says, “and with a large percentage of the population having historically followed a vegetarian diet, it’s amazing to see how far we have come and amazing to see it have such a wide appeal.” — Chantal Braganza

Recipes by MAUNIKA GOWARDHAN Produced by CHANTAL BRAGANZA and STEPHANIE HAN KIM Photography by ERIK PUTZ Food styling by RYAN BARCLAY Prop styling by MADELEINE JOHARI

MARCH/APRIL 2022 • CHATELAINE

food

THALI

Mango powder Also known as amchur, this tangy seasoning is made from ground dried unripe mango and adds a bright, citrusy ﬂavour to savoury dishes.

Serves 4 Prep 15 min; total 50 min 5

cm ginger root, roughly chopped

green bird’s-eye chilies, roughly chopped

tbsp ghee or vegetable oil

tsp cumin seeds

Pinch asafoetida 1⁄2

Bedmi Aloo (Spiced Turmeric and Coriander Potato Curry) A delicious way to cook a classic potato curry with cumin, chili, turmeric and coriander in a light, soupy gravy. This simple-to-cook dish is savoured with puris (deep-fried bread).

CHATELAINE • MARCH/APRIL 2022

tsp Kashmiri chili powder

tsp ground turmeric

tsp ground coriander

tbsp tomato paste

700

g new potatoes, peeled and halved

2 1⁄2

cups water

Pinch sugar Salt, to taste 1

tsp dried mango powder Chopped cilantro, to garnish

1. Put the ginger and chilies in a blender and blitz to a coarse paste, then set aside. 2 . Heat the ghee in a heavy-based nonstick pan over medium heat. Working quickly, add the cumin seeds and asafoetida to the pan and fry for a few seconds until they sizzle, then add the ginger and chili paste and fry for a minute. 3. Add the chili powder, turmeric and coriander, then add the tomato paste and cook for 1 min, stirring well. Add the potatoes and mix gently for 1 to 2 min, making sure they are coated in the spices. Add the water and sugar, and season with salt to taste. 4. Bring to a boil, then cover and simmer over low heat for 30 min until the potatoes are cooked through. Crush some of them lightly to thicken the gravy. 5. Add the mango powder and cilantro. Turn oﬀ the heat. Serve with puris and raita or plant-based yogurt and pickle.

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Malabar Mezhukupuratti (Malabar-Spiced Cauliflower with Ginger and Curry Leaves) As much as this is an everyday recipe, don’t let the ease of it fool you in terms of taste. The flavours are a delight, with a robust infusion of gingery curry leaves that soaks into the cauliflower and potatoes. Serves 4 Prep 10 min; total 35 min 3 tbsp vegetable oil 2 tsp mustard seeds 12 to 15 curry leaves, divided 5 cm ginger root, finely chopped 650 g cauliflower florets 2⁄3 cup water Salt, to taste 280 g potatoes, cubed and boiled 1⁄2 tsp coarsely ground black pepper

1. Heat the oil in a heavy-based saucepan over medium heat, then add the mustard seeds and let them sputter for 5 seconds. Add half of the curry leaves, along with the ginger, and fry for 20 seconds. Add the cauliflower and fry for another 4 min. Add the water and season with salt to taste. 2 . Cover, reduce the heat and cook for 12 min, stirring halfway through to make sure cauliflower doesn’t stick to the bottom of pan. Add the pre-boiled potatoes and pepper and simmer for a further 4 to 5 min, without the lid, until the cauliflower is cooked, stirring well so it doesn’t stick. Most of the water should have reduced at this stage. 3. Turn off the heat and add the remaining curry leaves, along with the cilantro. Serve warm, with chapati flatbreads and some dal.

THALI

Curry leaves Not to be confused with curry powder, which is a spice mix, this herb is sold dried and fresh, and is also called sweet neem. It’s used in many South Asian cuisines for its aroma and ﬂavour: a mix of lemon balm, anise and allium.

2 tbsp ﬁnely chopped cilantro

MARCH/APRIL 2022 • CHATELAINE

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THALI

Rajasthani Palak Dal (GarlicSpiced Spinach and Lentil Dal) This creamy dal from the northwest of India is lightly spiced with cumin, turmeric and garlic, with the addition of fresh spinach. Serves 4 Prep 5 min; total 45 min 1 1⁄3

cups moong dal (husked and halved yellow mung beans)

7 3⁄4

cups water, divided

tsp ground turmeric

tbsp ghee or sunﬂower oil

tsp black mustard seeds

1⁄2 5

tsp cumin seeds garlic cloves, roughly chopped

CHATELAINE • MARCH/APRIL 2022

green bird’s-eye chili, slit lengthwise Salt, to taste

100

g spinach, washed and chopped Juice of 1 lemon

1. Put the moong dal, 3 ¾ cups water and turmeric in a heavy-based saucepan over medium heat. Bring to a boil, then reduce the heat to low, half-cover and simmer for 30 min until the dal starts to get mushy, stirring a few times while it’s cooking. Turn oﬀ the heat, mash lightly with a potato masher and set aside. 2 . Heat the ghee in a heavy-based saucepan over medium heat. Add the mustard and cumin seeds and fry for a few

seconds until they begin to sputter. Add the garlic and chili and fry for a few seconds, moving them around in the pan to make sure they don’t burn. Reduce the heat to low, then add the cooked moong dal, a little at a time, and fry for a couple of minutes. 3. Season with salt to taste and add remaining 4 cups water. Cover and simmer over low heat for 4 min. Add the spinach and continue to simmer for a further 4 min, with the lid on. Add the lemon juice and stir. 4. Turn oﬀ the heat, remove chili (optional) and serve warm. This can be eaten with chapati ﬂatbreads or rice.

food

THALI

Asafoetida Also known as hing, this pungent spice is made from the ferula plant. A pinch fried in oil will add onion-like savouriness and amplify the other spices in your dish.

Gujarati Vaghara Makkai (Spicy Corn with Ginger and Green Chili) This stir-fried corn with ginger, green chili and turmeric is simple, quick and delicious, and a must to accompany every thali. Serves 4 Prep 10 min; total 15 min

tbsp vegetable oil

Pinch asafoetida 1

heaped tsp black mustard seeds

tsp ground turmeric Salt, to taste

tbsp ﬁnely chopped cilantro

tbsp roasted peanuts, crushed Juice of 1⁄2 lime

Chili and Ginger Paste 1

green bird’s-eye chili

garlic cloves, roughly chopped

cm ginger root, roughly chopped

cups canned corn kernels, drained, divided

1. Paste: Place chili, garlic and ginger in a blender, along with 3 tbsp of the corn. Blitz to a coarse paste. Set aside. 2 . Heat the oil in a large frying pan over medium heat. Add the asafoetida

and mustard seeds, and fry for a few seconds until they sputter. 3. Add the paste and fry for 1 min, stirring well. Add the turmeric and stir, then add the remaining corn and fry for 2 min. Reduce the heat to low, season with salt to taste, and add the cilantro and crushed peanuts. Cover and cook for 1 more minute. Finish with the lime juice and serve warm.

MARCH/APRIL 2022 • CHATELAINE

Andhra Carrot Pachadi (Mango, Mustard and Carrot Chutney) This pachadi, or fresh pickle, hails from southern India and uses tadka— dried spices fried in oil to amplify their ﬂavours—for its layered, complex taste. Makes about 540 g Prep 30 min; total 40 min 4

dried red Kashmiri chilies

tbsp black mustard seeds

1⁄2

cup warm water

450

g carrots, peeled

120

g unripe mango

Tadka 3

tbsp vegetable oil

Pinch asafoetida 1⁄2

tsp black mustard seeds

tsp fenugreek seeds

tbsp sugar Salt, to taste

1. In a bowl, soak the dried chilies and 1 tbsp mustard seeds in the warm water for 30 min. Dice half of the carrots finely and set aside. Cut the remaining carrots into rough chunks. 2 . Put the chilies, mustard seeds and the soaking liquid into a blender and blend to a paste. Add the mango and rough carrot chunks and blend to a coarse paste. Set aside. 3. Tadka: Heat the oil in a heavy-based saucepan over medium heat. Add the asafoetida, 1⁄2 tsp mustard seeds and fenugreek seeds and fry for 2 or 3 seconds. Reduce the heat to low and add the finely diced carrots. 4. Cover and cook for 10 min over low heat, stirring halfway through, until the carrots soften slightly. Turn off the heat, and add the blended paste and sugar. Season with salt to taste and stir well. Serve with rice or dosas. You can store any leftover chutney in an airtight jar in the fridge for up to 1 week.

Kashmiri chili powder This scarlet-hued spice, also known as mirch, adds a vibrant red colour and subtle heat to foods.

CHATELAINE • MARCH/APRIL 2022

food

THALI

Jaggery This unreﬁned sweetener is often sold in chunks or blocks. It’s made from sugar cane juice and/or date palm sap, and has a molasses-like ﬂavour.

Paruppu Payasam (Sweet Moong Dal and Cashew Pudding with Cardamom and Jaggery) Using lentils in desserts has always been common across India. This payasam can also be cooked with butter instead of coconut oil for a non-vegan version. Serves 4 Prep 5 min; total 1 hr 5 min 2

tbsp coconut oil

tbsp vegetable oil

cloves

200

g moong dal (husked and halved yellow mung beans)

4 3⁄4

cups warm water, divided

200

g jaggery or soft dark brown sugar

cardamom pods, seeds only, ground to a powder

cashews, roughly broken

2⁄3

cup coconut milk

1. Heat the coconut and vegetable oils in a heavy-based saucepan over low heat. Add the cloves and fry for a few seconds, then

add the moong dal and fry, stirring well, for 8 to 9 min. The colour will deepen as it fries. Slowly add 3 ½ cups water, making sure it doesn’t sputter. Increase the heat slightly, bring the mix to a boil, then cover and simmer over low heat for 50 min, stirring well a few times during cooking. 2 . While the moong dal is cooking, in a separate saucepan, dissolve the jaggery in 1 ¼ cups water and simmer gently for 10 to 15 min. Set aside to cool slightly. 3. Take the lid oﬀ the moong dal and mash to thicken the mixture slightly. Cook for a further 5 min, stirring well to make sure it doesn’t stick to the bottom of the pan. 4. Add the jaggery water to the moong dal, along with the ground cardamom and cashews. Stir well and simmer without the lid for 10 min. Add the coconut milk and simmer for a further 2 to 3 min. Turn oﬀ the heat and serve in bowls, warm or cold. The payasam will thicken as it cools.

MARCH/APRIL 2022 • CHATELAINE

food

SWEETS

DITCH THE OVEN FOR THESE CLASSIC—AND COMPLETELY VEGAN— NO-BAKE CONFECTIONS

Recipes by IRENE NGO Produced by AIMEE NISHITOBA Photography by ERIK PUTZ Food styling by JOHN KRUUSI Prop styling by MADELEINE JOHARI

CHATELAINE • MARCH/APRIL 2022

food

SWEETS

PISTACHIO AND ROSE HALVA P 92

MARCH/APRIL 2022 • CHATELAINE

food

SWEETS

CRISPY BERRY RICE SQUARES P 92

CHATELAINE • MARCH/APRIL 2022

food

SWEETS

SALTED PEANUT BUTTER CUPS P 92

MARCH/APRIL 2022 • CHATELAINE

food

SWEETS

Pistachio and Rose Halva Serves 8 to 10 Prep 10 min; total 2 hrs 10 min 1

cup coconut milk powder, such as Grace (100 g)

add more tahini, 1 tbsp at a time. Mixture should not feel sticky; it should feel dry but still stick together easily when pressed.

cup icing sugar (90 g)

Crispy Berry Rice Squares

cup well-stirred goodquality tahini, at room temperature

Makes 16 squares Prep 15 min; total 1 hr 20 min

tbsp rosewater or 1 tsp vanilla

tsp salt

cup coarsely chopped roasted pistachios

cup food-grade dried rose petals, coarsely crumbled

1. Line an 8 × 4-in. loaf pan with overhanging parchment. 2 . Combine coconut milk powder, icing sugar, tahini, rosewater and salt in a medium bowl. Stir until combined, and then use your hands to mix until it resembles a crumbly dough. 3. Sprinkle pistachios and rose petals on bottom of prepared pan. Scrape tahini mixture overtop. Press down very firmly until top is smooth. (If you have another loaf pan, you can use it to press down on the halva.) Refrigerate until halva is firm, about 2 hrs. 4. Using parchment, lift halva out of pan and place on the counter. Invert onto a cutting board. Slice to serve. Halva will store well, covered and refrigerated, for up to 2 weeks. Kitchen tip Different brands of tahini contain varying amounts of oil. If your halva seems too wet, add more coconut milk powder, 1 tbsp at a time. If it seems dry,

cup reﬁned coconut oil

283-g pkg vegan marshmallows, such as Dandies, cut in small pieces

tsp vanilla

tsp salt

cup white corn syrup

cups vegan crispy rice cereal, such as Nature’s Path cup freeze-dried strawberries, coarsely crumbled

CHATELAINE • MARCH/APRIL 2022

Salted Peanut Butter Cups Makes 12 cups Prep 15 min; total 15 min Plus setting time

1. Line a 9 × 9-in. baking pan with overhanging parchment. 2 . Melt coconut oil in a very large non-stick pot over medium. Add marshmallows, vanilla and salt. Cook, stirring often with a rubber spatula, until melted, 8 to 10 min. (Adjust heat if necessary to keep marshmallows from browning. Marshmallow mixture may still look clumpy when melted, but will ﬂatten easily when pressed with the spatula.) 3. Remove pot from heat. Stir in corn syrup until combined. Stir in cereal and strawberries until well coated. Press into prepared pan. Let cool completely, about 1 hr. 4. Using parchment, lift out of pan and transfer to a cutting board. Cut into 16 squares.

Kitchen tip Once chocolate is ﬁrm, trim paper liners for a neatly packaged look.

Chocolate-Covered Coconut Bars Makes 8 bars Prep 15 min; total 1 hr 15 min Plus setting time 2

200

g vegan dark chocolate, coarsely chopped

cup smooth natural peanut butter

1⁄3

cup icing sugar (40 g)

1⁄8

tsp salt tsp ﬂaked sea salt

1. Line a 12-cup muffin pan with paper liners. (Or use 12 silicone cupcake liners.) 2 . Place chocolate in a medium microwave-safe bowl. Microwave on medium, stirring every 30 sec, until almost melted, 1 to 2 min. Remove and stir until smooth. 3. Scoop 1 tsp melted chocolate into each liner. Tilt pan so chocolate covers bottoms of liners. Freeze until firm, about 5 min. 4. Meanwhile, stir peanut butter, sugar and salt in a medium bowl until combined. Mixture will be pasty. Roll into 2-tsp balls and flatten into patties. Place 1 peanut butter patty into each liner with chocolate. Press down on patty to flatten, leaving a 2-mm border. 5. Scoop heaping 1 tsp melted chocolate over each patty, carefully spreading so it fills in edges and covers peanut butter mixture completely. Sprinkle with sea salt. Set aside until chocolate is firm, preferably overnight. Cups will store well, in a sealed container at room temperature, for up to 5 days.

cups unsweetened desiccated coconut (180 g)

1⁄2

cup icing sugar (60 g)

tbsp white corn syrup

1⁄8 200

WHAT IS VEGAN CHOCOLATE? In its pure state, all chocolate is vegan: The fermented, roasted beans of the cacao plant are ground, heated and separated into cocoa solids and cocoa butter. It’s during the processing of these two ingredients that milk or animal fats may be added. When shopping for vegan chocolate, check the ingredient list for items such as whey, casein or lactose, which are also milk-based.

Squares will store well, layered between parchment in a sealed container at room temperature, for up to 5 days. Kitchen tip Dandies marshmallows are very sticky on the inside. Coat your knife in coconut oil to make cutting easier. If you use another brand of vegan marshmallows, your results may vary.

tsp salt g vegan dark chocolate, coarsely chopped

1. Line an 8 × 4-in. loaf pan with overhanging parchment. 2 . Stir coconut with icing sugar, corn syrup and salt in a bowl until mixture is sticky and moist. Using slightly damp hands, press and compact coconut mixture firmly into bottom of prepared pan. Press down mixture until top is smooth. Refrigerate until firm, about 1 hr. 3. Using parchment, lift coconut block out of pan. Invert onto a cutting board. Cut into eight 1-in.-wide bars. Press down any craggy edges to form smooth bars. 4. Line a baking sheet with parchment. Place chocolate in a shallow microwavesafe bowl. Microwave on medium, stirring every 30 sec, until almost melted, 1 to 2 min. Remove and stir until smooth. 5. Dip each bar into melted chocolate until completely coated, letting excess chocolate drip off. Lay on prepared sheet. Let stand until chocolate is firm, preferably overnight. (If some of the chocolate has pooled around the edges, trim off excess with a knife before serving or storing.) Coconut bars will store well, in a sealed container at room temperature, for up to 5 days.

food

SWEETS

CHOCOLATE-COVERED COCONUT BARS P 92

MARCH/APRIL 2022 • CHATELAINE

food

DINNER PLAN

The dinner plan Five easy weeknight meals

[ M O N DAY ]

Pineapple Fried Rice 94

CHATELAINE • MARCH/APRIL 2022

RECIPES, AMY SYMINGTON. PRODUCED BY SUN NGO. PHOTOS, ERIK PUTZ. FOOD STYLING, ASHLEY DENTON. PROP STYLING, MADELEINE JOHARI.

minutes or less!

food

DINNER PLAN

FOUND: the perfect wine for this dish, P 70.

[ T U E S DAY ]

[ W E D N E S DAY ]

Pinto Bean Taquitos

Mushroom and Lentil Stroganoff

[ T H U R S DAY ]

[ F R I DAY ]

Pesto Potato Soup

Tempeh Bolognese

MARCH/APRIL 2022 • CHATELAINE

food

DINNER PLAN

[ M O N DAY ]

[ T U E S DAY ]

[ W E D N E S DAY ]

Pineapple Fried Rice

Pinto Bean Taquitos

Mushroom and Lentil Stroganoff

Serves 4 Prep 20 min; total 40 min

Serves 4 Prep 10 min; total 40 min

Serves 4 Prep 15 min; total 40 min

tsp sesame oil, divided

cup shelled edamame

red onion, diced

tbsp olive oil, divided

large orange, zested and juiced, divided

medium red pepper, diced

tsp dried thyme, divided

tsp soy sauce, divided

small jalapeno, seeds removed, minced

350-g block extra-ﬁrm tofu, cut in ¾-in. cubes

garlic cloves, minced, divided

cups diced carrots (about 2 large)

540-mL can pinto beans, drained and rinsed

775

1½

tbsp Tex-Mex seasoning, such as Club House

large onion, diced

cups quartered cremini mushrooms

lime, zested and juiced, divided

garlic cloves, minced

cups cooked brown rice

tsp salt, divided

540-mL can lentils, drained and rinsed

cup sugar snap peas

tsp black pepper

400-mL can coconut milk

avocados, diced

garlic cloves, minced

tbsp minced ginger

2 4 1 1

cups chopped pineapple and its juices

tsp salt Thinly sliced green onions (optional)

cup + 1 tbsp canola oil, divided

Plant-based sour cream (optional)

Red pepper ﬂakes (optional)

Hot sauce (optional) Chopped cilantro (optional)

CHATELAINE • MARCH/APRIL 2022

g baby or new potatoes

7½

tsp soy sauce, divided

lemon, zested, divided g head cabbage, core removed and cut in 8 even slices

cup chopped parsley

8-in. corn tortillas

Toasted sesame seeds (optional)

1. Heat a large frying pan over medium. Add 1 tsp sesame oil, then edamame. Cook, stirring occasionally, until edamame turn bright green, about 3 min. Add half the orange zest and juice, and 1 tsp soy sauce. Cook until all liquid is absorbed, about 2 min. Transfer edamame mixture to a plate. 2 . Increase heat to medium-high, then add 3 tsp sesame oil and tofu cubes. Cook until tofu is lightly browned on all sides, about 5 min. Drizzle 3 tsp soy sauce over tofu. Cook until all liquid is absorbed, about 1 min. 3. Add carrots, garlic and ginger to pan. Cook, stirring, for 2 min. Add pineapple and its juices. Cook, scraping any browned bits from bottom of pan. 4. Add cooked brown rice, snap peas, and remaining 2 tsp sesame oil, 2 tsp soy, orange zest and juice. Cook, stirring often, until rice is slightly crispy, about 7 min. Stir in salt. Season with pepper. 5. Divide fried rice among plates. Sprinkle with green onions, sesame seeds and red pepper ﬂakes. Per serving 530 calories, 22 g protein, 18 g carbs, 15 g fat, 10 g ﬁbre, 5 mg iron, 1,070 mg sodium.

680

1. Heat a large frying pan over medium. Add 1 tbsp oil, then onion. Cook, stirring often, until softened, about 4 min. Add red pepper, jalapeno and 4 minced garlic cloves. Cook, stirring often, for 2 min. 2 . Add beans and seasoning. Cook, stirring, for 3 min. Stir in half of the lime zest and juice, ¼ tsp salt and pepper. Remove from heat. Mash beans lightly with a fork. Set aside and let cool slightly. 3. Combine avocados with remaining minced garlic, lime zest and juice, and ¼ tsp salt. Set aside. 4. Scoop ¼ cup bean ﬁlling onto centre of each tortilla. Evenly spread into a line. Roll up, then secure with toothpicks. 5. Wipe pan clean, then return to stovetop over medium-high. Add remaining ¼ cup oil. When oil is hot, add taquitos, seam-side down. (You may need to do this in batches.) Fry until golden-brown and crispy, 1 to 2 min per side. Transfer to a paper-towel-lined plate. Repeat with remaining taquitos. 6. Top warm taquitos with guacamole, sour cream, hot sauce and cilantro. Per serving 700 calories, 18 g protein, 89 g carbs, 36 g fat, 17 g ﬁbre, 3 mg iron, 910 mg sodium.

1. Position rack in centre of oven and preheat to 400F. Line 2 baking sheets with parchment. 2 . Toss potatoes with 1 tbsp oil, 1 tsp thyme, ½ tsp soy and half the lemon zest on 1 prepared sheet. 3. Arrange cabbage slices on second prepared sheet. Whisk 1 tbsp oil, 1 tsp soy sauce and remaining lemon zest in a small bowl. Brush over cabbage. 4. Roast until potatoes and cabbage are lightly browned and fork-tender, about 30 min. 5. Meanwhile, heat a large frying pan over medium-high. Add remaining 2 tbsp oil, then onion. Cook, stirring often, until softened, 4 min. Add mushrooms, garlic and remaining 3 tsp thyme. Cook, stirring occasionally, until mushrooms have released all their liquid, about 7 min. 6. Stir in lentils, coconut milk and remaining 6 tsp soy sauce. Season with pepper. Simmer for 5 min. 7. Divide stroganoff and vegetables among plates. Sprinkle with parsley. Cut zested lemon into wedges and serve with stroganoff, if desired. Per serving 600 calories, 17 g protein, 65 g carbs, 35 g fat, 17 g fibre, 10 mg iron, 530 mg sodium.

[ T H U R S DAY ]

[ F R I DAY ]

Pesto Potato Soup

Tempeh Bolognese

Serves 4 Prep 10 min; total 40 min

Serves 4 Prep 15 min; total 40 min

Basil Pesto 1

bunch basil, stems removed (about 5 cups loosely packed)

375

g whole-grain pappardelle pasta (or other pasta)

4½

tsp olive oil

cup ground almonds

small onion, diced

large garlic clove

garlic cloves, minced

tsp salt

cup diced cremini mushrooms

1⁄4

cup olive oil

cup diced orange or yellow bell peppers, about 1 small

½ 1

250

Soup tsp olive oil, divided

tbsp cumin

small onion, diced

tbsp paprika

garlic cloves, minced

tbsp dried oregano leaves

large white potatoes, peeled and diced (about 5 cups)

cups strained tomatoes or passata tbsp soy sauce

400-mL can coconut milk

cups frozen green peas

Grated plant-based parmesan-style cheese, such as Violife (optional)

1⁄2

tsp salt

Thinly sliced basil (optional)

cup plant-based cream, such as Earth’s Own

Hot red pepper ﬂakes (optional)

1. Pesto: Combine basil, almonds, 1 garlic clove and ½ tsp salt in a blender. Pulse until ﬁnely chopped. With motor running, gradually add ¼ cup oil, then ½ cup water. Blend until smooth, 1 to 2 min. Transfer pesto to a bowl. 2 . Soup: Heat a pot over medium-high. Add 2 tsp oil, then onion. Cook, stirring often, until softened, about 3 min. Add 4 minced garlic cloves. Cook, stirring, for 1 to 2 min. Add potatoes and 3 cups water. Bring to a boil. Reduce heat to medium-low and simmer, covered, until potatoes are fork-tender, 12 to 14 min. 3. Stir coconut milk, peas and ½ tsp salt into soup. Cook until peas are thawed, about 3 min. Stir in ¾ cup pesto, reserving the rest for garnish. Using an immersion blender (or standard blender), purée soup until smooth. 4. Divide soup among bowls. Drizzle plant-based cream, and remaining pesto and 4 tsp oil overtop. Top with microgreens, peas and radishes, if desired. Per serving 670 calories, 12 g protein, 49 g carbs, 51 g fat, 11 g ﬁbre, 7 mg iron, 1,000 mg sodium.

GET 12 ISSUES – FOR JUST $12

g tempeh, crumbled

2½

Want to give yourself the gift of a royal escape?

1. Cook pasta following package directions. 2 . Meanwhile, heat a large saucepan over medium. Add oil, then onion, garlic and mushrooms. Cook, stirring occasionally, until mushrooms have released their liquid, about 4 min. Add bell peppers. Cook, stirring occasionally, until softened, about 4 min. 3. Add tempeh, cumin, paprika and oregano. Season with pepper. Cook, stirring occasionally, until tempeh is cooked through, about 5 min. 4. Meanwhile, reserve ¼ cup pasta water, then drain pasta and set aside. 5. Stir tomatoes, soy sauce and reserved ¼ cup pasta water into bolognese. Simmer for 5 min. 6. Divide pasta amongst plates. Top with sauce, then plant-based cheese, basil and pepper ﬂakes. Per serving 540 calories, 32 g protein, 81 g carbs, 15 g fat, 12 g ﬁbre, 7 mg iron, 590 mg sodium.

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one last thing

HUMOUR

Every failed New Year’s resolution purchase, recycled Written by ANNA FITZPATRICK Illustration by LEEANDRA CIANCI

SO YOU GOT A LITTLE AMBITIOUS on January 1 before the depressing reality of 2022 hit, and now you’re stuck with a bunch of untouched self-improvement products purchased in a haze of now-dissipated optimism. Instead of tossing your junk, why not try to find different uses for it? Here are some ideas to get you started. PELOTON Using your stationary bike as a clothes rack is so ’90s. Update the look by hanging all your reusable tote bags on it. It’s an environmental double whammy! After bumping into it as you make your way from the living room to the kitchen and back again 30 times a day, you’ll never again forget to bring your bags to the grocery store. VITAMIX You bought it to make kale smoothies every morning, but now you’re tempted to make 10 a.m. margaritas instead. Split the difference, health-wise, and keep it as a place to store all those dead batteries that you’ve been meaning to take to the drop-off depot. (The dropoff itself can be a task for 2023.) ACOUSTIC GUITAR Learning a new instrument seemed like a great idea—until you realized you’d be spending

CHATELAINE • MARCH/APRIL 2022

another season staying indoors with your noisy family. After inevitably getting frustrated and smashing your guitar, you now have a unique lawn ornament to add to your garden. Let it go. It belongs to the soil now. Invest in some earplugs instead. GRATITUDE JOURNAL These are great for mindlessly doodling endless little spirals during a workday ﬁlled with back-to-back Zoom meetings, as you yourself try not to endlessly spiral. Shhh, shhh. Don’t think about the quarterly reports. Just keep doodling. BATHING SUIT FOR TROPICAL VACATION Ha ha ha ha hahahaha! You really thought it was ﬁnally going to happen this spring, didn’t you? Keep the suit and wear it— while you sit in the shower, letting the water run over you as it washes away your tears. CROSSROADS BY JONATHAN FRANZEN The perfectly sized book to use as a makeshift yoga block. YOGA BLOCK THAT USED TO BE A COPY OF CROSSROADS BY JONATHAN FRANZEN Use it to prop up your iPad as you marathon Selling Sunset in bed.

Chatelaine - March/April 2022

Articles inside

Simply sweet

Feast on

The main attraction

Thrill of the hunt

There’s no reconciliation without truth

Psychedelics today

Editor’s letter

Is there such a thing as sustainable beef?

Notes

Call of the wild

Agenda

Notes

You tell us