Coastal Living - March 2018

TASMANIA, AUSTRALIA • ELEUTHERA, BAHAMAS • PINE ISLAND, FLORIDA • CAVALLO, FRANCE • FOLEGANDROS, GREECE • PRAIANO, ITALY • PLUM ISLAND, MASSACHUSETTS • YELAPA, MEXICO • PORTOBELO, PANAMA • HUNTING ISLAND, SOUTH CAROLINA

50 Secret Places

FROM FAR-FLUNG GETAWAYS TO GEMS HIDING IN PLAIN SIGHT

MARCH 2018

3 Once-in-a-Lifetime Cruises

Y O U L I G H T T H E F I R E,

WE’LL PAVE

THE WAY.

Only Belgard provides the inspiration and tools you need to bring your outdoor living vision to life and the peace of mind to ensure it lasts.

Get your FREE planning guide at Belgard.com/CL

COASTAL LIVING

MARCH 2018 pg. 60

Currents 9 The Best of the Coast This Month Spring has sprung! Dress for the season with the freshest cover-ups, wedges, and swimwear.

Havens 17 Color Theory Cheerful shell pink and sunshine yellow 21 Seaside Design Five petite retreats prove a place of peace can be carved out of any home.

28 View with a Room A flock of flamingos sparks a vivid design scheme for a sunroom.

Navigator 33 The Guide 50 offthe-beaten-track destinations to explore this year—plus why now is the time to go

Bounty 77 Gather The ultimate guide to pizza night, wine pairings included

JULIEN CAPMEIL

83 Cravings Must-have gear—including a topnotch pizza oven— for serving restaurantquality pies at home

44

52

60

68

Chasing Paradise A photojournalist explores the remote and unspoiled islets of the Seychelles, fulfilling a lifelong quest among their natural riches in the process.

Only by Boat Cruising through three wild and beautiful destinations: the islands of the Galápagos, Norway’s fjords, and an Indonesian archipelago

Dreams of Mallorca A feast for your appetite and your eyes, this rocky Mediterranean island is home to a rustic restaurant well worth the pilgrimage.

Isla Escape The lush landscapes of Isla Holbox, off Mexico’s Yucatán Peninsula, provide inspiration for an architectural and interior design passion project.

ON T H E COV E R : P H OTO GRAP H BY JAD DAVENP OR T

86 Foodways A lauded Massachusetts chef leaves white tablecloths behind to start a laidback neighborhood joint with a killer fish burger.

IN EVERY ISSUE Cocktail of the Month 2 Editor’s Letter 4 Beach Dogs 6 Sources 90 Keepsake 92

March 2018 COASTAL LIVING

1

Rich Battista Alan Murray EDITORIAL DIRECTOR Nathan Lump PRESIDENT & CEO

CHIEF CONTENT OFFICER

Cocktail of the Month

LAVENDER PISCO SOUR E DITOR - I N - CH I E F

Sid Evans

EXECUTIVE CREATIVE DIRECTOR DESIGN DIRECTOR

Tempy Segrest E DITO R IAL

Lindsey Ellis Beatty SENIOR EDITOR, HOMES Ellen McGauley SENIOR EDITOR, TRAVEL Tracey Minkin FOOD & WINE EDITOR Chris Hughes STYLE EDITOR Rachael Burrow ASSISTANT MANAGING EDITOR Mamie Walling ASSISTANT EDITOR Lauren Phillips FELLOWS Taylor Eisenhauer, Mary Tomlinson STYLE DIRECTOR

Robert Perino Katie Finley

DEPUTY EDITOR

ART & PHOTOG R APHY

Julia Ludlam Jennifer Skarda SENIOR ASSOCIATE PHOTO EDITOR Lindsey Stone PHOTO ASSISTANT Ashley Thomas DESIGNER

ASSISTANT DESIGNER

In a cocktail shaker, combine ¼ cup (2 oz.) pisco, 2 Tbsp. fresh lime juice, 2 Tbsp. lavender syrup (such as Floral Elixir Co.), 1 large pasteurized egg white, and a pinch of table salt. Fill shaker with ice. Shake vigorously for 20 seconds. Strain into a coupe glass, and garnish with a lavender sprig, if desired. Serves 1.

DIG ITAL

Susan Hall Mahon Marisa Spyker Chandler Stroman

DIGITAL CONTENT MANAGER

SENIOR ASSOCIATE HOMES EDITOR ASSISTANT DIGITAL EDITOR

TI M E I N C .

COO Jen Wong Sue D’Emic, Leslie Dukker Doty, Brad Elders, Mark Ford, Greg Giangrande, Lauren Ezrol Klein, Steve Marcopoto, Erik Moreno VP, CORPORATE COMMUNICATIONS Jill Davison VP, HUMAN RESOURCES Stacie Sullivan BRAND GENERAL MANAGER Regina Buckley ASSOCIATE GENERAL COUNSEL Maya Menendez EDITORIAL OPERATIONS/FINANCE DIRECTOR George Kimmerling

TI M E I N C . ADVE R TI S I N G SALE S

Karen Kovacs Andrew Reedman, Thu Phan Rodriguez GROUP PRESIDENT

DIGITAL STRATEGY

B R AN D SALE S

Ann Gobel Kim Krubeck

VP, LIFESTYLE VP, BRAND SALES DIRECTOR

CATEGORY SALE S

Lauren Newman Ellie Duque FASHION & RETAIL Kevin Martinez FINANCE Mike Schneider HEALTHCARE Heidi Anderson HOME Nate Stamos FOOD/BEVERAGE/SPIRITS David Gensler INDUSTRY/GOVERNMENT/TOBACCO/GOLF Nate Stamos TECHNOLOGY/TELECOMMUNICATIONS Scott Kelliher TRAVEL Jay Meyer BEAUTY

ENTERTAINMENT

SALES OPERATIONS

Pearl Collings Kavata Mbondo VP, BRAND LEAD Amy Thind

CHIEF BUSINESS & SALES OPERATIONS OFFICER VP, DIGITAL REVENUE STRATEGY & OPERATIONS

SALE S S U P P O R T

Jade Jones, Julie Segovia, India Tibbetts MAR K E TI N G

Susan Parkes VP, BRAND MARKETING, LIFESTYLE & LUXURY Vildia Samaniego VP, BRAND MARKETING, LIFESTYLE & SHELTER Jennifer Staiman DIRECTOR, BRAND MARKETING Claire Stevick VP S , CLIENT SOLUTIONS Ronak Patel, Rob Stephen VP, ACTIVATION Meg Doperak-Miglionico VP, TRADE MARKETING Steven Cambron ASSOCIATE HOMES DIRECTOR Nicole Hendrick SENIOR MANAGER Emily Boehling SVP, ADVERTISING & BRAND MARKETING

CO N S U M E R MAR K E TI N G

Chris Gaydos, Beth Gorry Ann Marie Doherty, Melissa Mahoney, Shari Pessah, Karan Simoneau DIRECTORS Jennifer Schiele, Karen Paek, Tricia Williams SENIOR BRAND STRATEGY MANAGER Mackenzie Bower BRAND STRATEGY MANAGER Shana Jordan MARKETING MANAGERS Lauren Evans, Melissa Kross ASSISTANT MARKETING MANAGER Hayley Metcalf SVP S VP S

DIGITAL SVP S

Nicolas Butterworth, Patty Hirsch Pamela Russo

VP AND GENERAL MANAGER

SENIOR AUDIENCE DEVELOPMENT MANAGER PRODUCT MANAGER

Julie Huang

Hanna Watt

FI NAN CE

Maria Beckett Don Lichter, Keith Strohmeier EXECUTIVE DIRECTOR Dan Opperthauser DIRECTOR Jessica Yan ASSOCIATE DIRECTOR Brad Scharff SENIOR MANAGER Greg Brown ANALYST Hollie Rose SVP VP S

P RO D U C TIO N

Arleen F. O’Brien Don Stone PRODUCTION MANAGER Susan Windrum AD PRODUCTION COORDINATOR Imran Hussain DIGITAL MAGAZIEN ASSOCIATE Sarai Garcia SENIOR ANALYST, OPERATIONS Srimoyee Lahiri PRODUCTION DIRECTOR

SENIOR OPERATIONS MANAGER

G LO BAL TECH N O LOGY S E RVICE S

Kurt Rao Adam Days, Amanda Hanes, Hugues Hervouet, Rob Innes, Dan Lo, Keith O’Sullivan, Rajeshwari Ramamoorthy, Pradip Tripathy CHIEF INFORMATION OFFICER VP S

COASTAL DIRECT RESPONSE

212/779-7172, ext. 224; Nancy Forman COASTAL MARKET/CLASSIFIED

212/779-7172; Media People FOR ALL ADVERTISING INQUIRIES, PLEASE EMAIL

advertising_contact@timeinc.com

DECEMBER 2017

WINNER Jennifer Fife Bircheno

Mele Kaliki-Vodka SUBSCRIBERS If the Post Office alerts us that your magazine is undeliverable, we have no further obligation unless we receive a corrected address within two years. MAILING LIST We make a portion of our mailing list available to reputable firms. If you would prefer that we not include your name, please call or write us. CUSTOMER SERVICE

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For change of address, payment, and other subscription questions, call 888/252-3529 or visit coastalliving.com/ customerservice. REPRINTS For logo licensing, permissions, and reprints, call The YGS Group at 800/501-9571, ext. 2332, or e-mail coastalliving@theygsgroup.com. EDITORIAL OFFICE If you have questions or comments, e-mail letters@coastalliving.com or write to 4100 Old Montgomery Highway, Birmingham, AL 35209.

COASTAL LIVING March 2018

For our December issue’s frosty coconut cocktail, Bircheno turned to the classic Hawaiian-themed holiday tune made famous by Bing Crosby.

JENNIFER CAUSEY/PROP STYLING BY MINDI SHAPIRO LEVINE/FOOD STYLING BY MARY CLAIRE BRITTON/RECIPE BY PAIGE GRANDJEAN; INSET: GREG DUPREE/PROP STYLING BY MINDI SHAPIRO LEVINE/FOOD STYLING BY EMILY NABORS HALL

EVP S

Hanging out: The three-toed sloth we encountered at La Loma Jungle Lodge & Chocolate Farm in Panama

The Best-Kept Secrets OUR FAMILY OF FOUR had just settled into an open-air cabin at a small

eco-lodge and chocolate farm called La Loma, on Isla Bastimentos in Panama, when we heard a muffled thump in the forest. My wife, Susan, abruptly stopped unpacking. “Did you hear that?” she said. “I think a sloth just fell out of a tree.”

“No way,” I said confidently. “Must have been a coconut.”

But Susan was already headed out the door and down the dirt path to investigate. (Sometimes she just knows things.)

Minutes later, all four of us were watching a stunned but seemingly unhurt sloth make his way across the forest floor, s-l-o-w-l-y. He clambered up the small wooden bridge we were standing on, so close you could see his long, sharp claws. He resembled a stuffed bear with a very expressive face. My daughter, Phoebe, said he looked like he was smiling.

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COASTAL LIVING March 2018

We hadn’t traveled to Panama for the sloths, per se, but we were looking for a different kind of spring break, and thanks to a tip from an editor at this magazine, that’s what we found. White-faced capuchin monkeys would sometimes wake us in the morning as they swung through the trees, prompting the kids to bound out of bed in amazement. One day we took a boat trip to the Zapatillas, a pair of pristine islands where we snorkeled around the reefs for hours without seeing another soul. Another day we donned helmets and headlamps, following a local guide deep into the jungle to explore a hidden bat cave.

The dinners prepared by Maggie and Henry, La Loma’s charming proprietors, provided a different kind of adventure, with inventive dishes built with local ingredients and spices—snapper steamed in banana leaves, a South India–inspired fish curry with ginger and turmeric, and a decadent chocolate cake made from grated coconut instead of flour. One evening after dinner we took a hike in search of caimans, small alligator-like creatures that come out at night to hunt in the creeks. When I spotted one—its yellow eyes shining in the beam of my flashlight—I felt like a kid at camp.

I know not everyone gets as excited about sloths, caimans, and bat caves as I do, but our stay at La Loma was a spring break I won’t soon forget. Those kinds of unique experiences were what editors Tracey Minkin and Lauren Phillips were seeking when they came up with our list of “50 Secret Places” on page 33. They may not all be easy to get to, but if you’re looking for a different kind of trip, this story—and this issue—is for you.

SID EVANS, EDITOR-IN-CHIEF sid@coastalliving.com; @sidmemphis

FROM TOP: LAUREY W. GLENN, SID EVANS

EDITOR’S LETTER

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BEACH DOGS

FAST FRENCHIE Follow Taffy’s adventures—in the city and on the coast—on Instagram: @frenchbugle

EASE ON DOWN THE ROAD Traveling, even to the beach, can sometimes be stressful for dogs. Make your next trip a breeze with smart pet travel gear

Sleepypod Mobile Pet Bed in Sky Blue, $190; sleepypod.com

Harry Barker Natural Refreshing Citrus Spray, $10; harry barker.com

Meet Taffy On the busy sidewalks of Manhattan, where Taffy lives, the 9-yearold rescue is popular among Big Apple tourists. “She’s really friendly,” owner Angelique Faustino says of Taffy’s willingness to greet and be petted by passing visitors. “I tell them she’s a ‘French bugle,’” adds Faustino, who coined the term to distinguish her French bulldog/beagle mix from a puggle (a pug/beagle mix), for which Taffy is often mistaken.

CITY SLICKER

A handful of times each year, Taffy escapes the hustle and bustle of the city to the shores of Ponte Vedra Beach, Florida, where Faustino and her husband, Bart Adlam, have a home. “We always take Taffy,” Faustino F R E Q U E N T F LY E R

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COASTAL LIVING March 2018

says. “She’s a great flyer.” Ever since her first trip south, Taffy takes the journey in stride, willingly traveling in a carrier because she knows what awaits on the other side. “She knows we’ll get to the beach eventually,” Faustino says.

S P E E D R AC E R Once she hits the sand, Taffy—who runs with her owner several days a week—takes off, bolting down the shore. “We think the beach is her favorite place in the world,” Faustino says. “She’s so peaceful and exuberant at the same time.” After her sprints, Taffy collects seashells, picking them up and carrying them around proudly. The only thing she doesn’t care for? The waves: “I think she’s scared of them,” Faustino says.

BY LAU R EN PHI LLI PS

TRAVEL LIGHT Portable and durable, this bowl can be folded and zipped into a pouch that easily fits inside a pocket or bag.

Kurgo Zippy Bowl in Coastal Blue, $10; kurgo.com

Do you have a favorite picture of your dog at the beach to share? Email it to beachdogs@ coastalliving.com and tell us in 100 words or less why you think he or she deserves to be featured.

CLOCKWISE: @FRENCHBUGLE, COURTESY OF MANUFACTURERS (3)

A cosmopolitan pup for most of the year, this jet-setting dog goes total beach bum on trips to Florida’s Atlantic coast

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Hello, sailor: shipshape style for your spring wardrobe PAGE 13

CURRENTS The best of the coast this month

The 2018 Coastal Style Guide

COURTESY OF ANASTASIIA GERAK AND NAZANIN ROSE MATIN

Look as fresh as a sea breeze all season long with our favorite bold, bright, beachy picks

CHOOSE LARGESCALE PRINTS Nazanin Rose Matin Pineapple Kaftan, $412; nazaninrosematin.com

BY L I N DS E Y E L LIS BEATTY AND RACH AEL BURR OW

March 2018 COASTAL LIVING

9

CURRENTS

Embrace Your Inner Island Girl Make the sand your catwalk in breezy silhouettes with raffia and bamboo details 2 1

HAND-EMBROIDERED AND HOLLOW, SO THEY’RE LIGHT AS A FEATHER

4

A TROPICAL TWIST ON THE FLORAL PRINT

1 PAPER London Volcano One-piece Swimsuit, $230; paperlondon.com 2 Tracy Reese Tie Waist Henley in Acorn/Jade Floral, $358; nordstrom.com 3 Rebecca de Ravenel Claudia La La Hoop Earrings, $345; moda operandi.com

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4 MYKITA ANTTI Sunglasses in A17/ Dark Green Solid, $599; mykita.com 5 Carolina Santo Domingo Petra Mini Leather Tote Bag with Bamboo Handles in Orange, $695; modaoperandi .com

CRAFTED FROM A SINGLE PIECE OF MAHOGANY

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6 KAANAS Martinique Sandals in Sorbet, $119; kaanas.com 7 Sophie Monet Tesoro Cuff, $185; sophiemonetjewelry .com

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COASTAL LIVING March 2018

DRESS AND CUFF: ROB CULPEPPER; SWIMSUIT: ROBBIE CAPONETTO; ALL OTHER PRODUCTS: COURTESY OF MANUFACTURERS; OPPOSITE: COURTESY OF FLAGPOLE

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GO GRAPHIC Flagpole Ali Suit in Rosé/Tangerine, $385; flagpolenyc.com

CURRENTS

INVEST IN EMBROIDERY ELEVEN MARCH11 ADELE Blouse in Blue, $360; march11.us

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COASTAL LIVING March 2018

Nail a ’70s Nautical Look SWIMSUIT AND SANDALS: HECTOR SANCHEZ; BLOUSE AND PANTS: ROB CULPEPPER; BAG: ADAM COHEN; ALL OTHER PRODUCTS: COURTESY OF MANUFACTURERS; OPPOSITE: COURTESY OF MARCH11

Tortoiseshell shades, metallic accents, and flared pants channel groovy maritime style 1

2 3

A FLATTERING FORMULA: VERTICAL STRIPES + STRUCTURE

A LIGHTWEIGHT, HANDMADE METALLIC TOUCH

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1 Wildfox Malibu Sunglasses in Amber Tortoise, $99; wildfox .com

5 SLIDE ON A SIMPLE SANDAL IN LEATHER AND SUEDE

2 Frame Scarf Blouse, $229; frame-store.com 3 Slantt Studio Camilla Earrings, $168; cjlaingshop.com 4 HOZEN Canteen Bag in Rouge, $395; hozencollection.com

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5 Frame Le Palazzo Pant Belted Raw Edge in Blanc, $249; framestore.com 6 TKEES Jo Sandals in Hazelton, $95; tkees.com 7 Mei L’ange Aurora Structured Bikini in Multi-color Stripes, $130; meilange.com

March 2018 COASTAL LIVING

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CURRENTS

Try a Bold Poolside Style An updated palette for spring days by the pool: citrus and blush with a bolt of neon

1

3

MAKE A SPLASH IN AN ELECTRIC ONE-PIECE

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5

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THINK POP ART FOR YOUR WRIST

1 KREWE Orleans Sunglasses in 24K Titanium + White Linen, $295; krewe.com 2 Karla Colletto Allure One-piece in Citrus, $228; adriana online.com

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3 Sabrina Dehoff Neon Hoop Earring Berlin 02, $349; email info@sabrina dehoff.com 4 ban.do Cool It! Glass Water Bottle in Blush, $28; bando.com

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5 Lizzie Fortunato Ridge Cuff in Cotton Candy, $115; lizzie fortunato.com 6 Ipanema Ellie Sandals in Beige, $30; ipanemausa.com

STEP UP YOUR FLIP-FLOP STYLE WITH A PAIR MADE OF 100% RECYCLABLE MATERIAL

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COASTAL LIVING March 2018

7 ban.do Peekaboo Tote in Pink Shimmer, $36; bando.com 8 Nixon Small Time Teller P Watch in Translucent Mint, $75; nixon.com

EARRINGS, WATER BOTTLE, SWIMSUIT, AND SANDALS: ROB CULPEPPER; ALL OTHER PRODUCTS: COURTESY OF MANUFACTURERS

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Make your escape! Five swell spaces for stealing away PAGE 21

HAVENS Fresh ideas for beach homes

COLOR THEORY

Shell Pink + Sunshine Yellow This bright, buoyant pair is winter’s elixir: Take both and call us in the morning

BY L I N DS E Y E L LIS BEATTY AND ELLEN M CGAULEY

PHOTOGR A PH BY HECTOR MA N U EL SA N CHEZ

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HAVENS | COLOR THEORY

Buy It 1 Bramalta Donegal Silhouette Fabric in Pink, available to the trade; bramalta.com 2 Philomela Flores Fabric in Celery, from $148 per yard; philomelasweb.com 3 Romo Linara Fabric in Daffodil, available to the trade; romo.com 4 Clarence House Imperial Velvet Fabric in Ballet, available to the trade; clarencehouse.com 5 Houlès Aurore Tassel Fringe in 9400, available to the trade; houles.com 6 China Seas Interweave Wallpaper in Light Pink on Almost White, available to the trade; quadrille fabrics.com 7 Amanda Nisbet Design Bubbles Fabric in Lemongrass, $120 per yard; amandanisbetdesign.com for retailers 8 Quadrille Terrace Fabric in Watermelon on White, available to the trade; quadrillefabrics.com

Hue IQ Along with being the poster hue for happiness (hello, sunshine!), yellow is believed to jump-start the left side of the brain, where new ideas come from. Pair it with pink, the color of calm, for a blissful balance in an office or in kids’ bunk rooms: Come lights-out, you can balance all that creativity with a little serenity.

Lulu and Georgia Auden Boxes in Pastel Pink, $120 for a set of two; luluandgeorgia.com

Safavieh Lighting 27-inch Pamela Mustard Gold Triple Gourd Ceramic Table Lamp, $82; overstock.com

9 Luca Osburn Tides Stroke Tile in Outer Sunset, from $20 each; cletile.com 10 Artistic Tile Gemstone Rose Quartz Polished Stone Slab, $310 per square foot; artistictile.com for retailers 11 StudioB Thompson Basket Case Fabric in 06, available to the trade; studiobfabrics.com

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2

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Archive New York Antigua Pillow in Faded Pink Stripe, $168; archivenewyork.com

Coleen & Company The Leafy Chandelier in Custom Yellow, $1,850; coleenandcompany.com

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PAINT IT

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These soft shades are perfect for walls, offering subtle hits of pink and rose without overwhelming the room.

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Serena & Lily Dorset Bench in Nectar Cotton Velvet, $1,798; serenaandlily.com

COASTAL LIVING March 2018

4 2

1 Angel Food Pratt & Lambert

3 Calamine Farrow & Ball

2 Impatiens Petal Sherwin-Williams

4 Petunia Pink Benjamin Moore

SUNBATHERS: AMANDA CHARCHIAN; PAINT SWATCHES: ANNE CARTWRIGHT; BOXES, LAMP, PILLOW, CHANDELIER, AND BENCH: COURTESY OF MANUFACTURERS

At ease, ladies: This splendid poolside scene at The Saguaro hotel in Palm Springs, where an army of canary yellow chaise longues lines up alongside mod pink drink tables, inspired this dynamo palette. Need an accent color that can hang with this power couple? We’ve got our sights set on the mellow sea green in that Norma Kamali swimsuit.

Shift You

HGTV, HGTV Smart Home, HGTV Smart Home Giveaway and their associated logos are trademarks of Scripps Networks, LLC. Used with permission; all rights reserved.

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HAVENS | SEASIDE DESIGN

Cozy Little Hideaways

ANNIE SCHLECHTER; PROP STYLING BY MATTHEW GLEASON

These restful one-room retreats just might be the soundest escape plans of all—no overnight bag required

Interior design by James Radin; architecture by Mark Schmid. The wallpaper is by Farrow & Ball.

Catbird Seat

SOFTEN YOUR PERCH

Pasha pattern frames the

continue, rather than

Keeping tabs on tides and passing boats far outranks to-do lists on this sweet window seat overlooking Buzzards Bay in Massachusetts. But maybe you’ll spy a new idea or two peeking over the horizon.

A double-welt cushion

water vista and mellows

disrupt, its tranquil vibe.

stretching the length of

the graphic grid patterns

MINIMIZE DISTRACTIONS

the bench and a bevy of

on the windows.

Built-in storage beneath

throw pillows give this seat

GO MONOCHROMATIC

and flanking the bench

enough plush comfort to

Simple color schemes win

keeps clutter contained—a

lounge as good as it looks.

when it comes to playing up

must for no-stress sanctuar-

FRAME THE VIEW

ocean views. Think of the

ies. Simple detailing, like

A box-pleat valance and

water as one-half of your

single knob pulls, gives the

draperies in Raoul Textiles’s

palette, and find hues that

millwork a low profile.

BY E L L E N M CG AULE Y

March 2018 COASTAL LIVING

21

Retro Reading Nook Never underestimate the power of nostalgia as an escape route. On Nantucket, nods to the freedom of summer make a subtle sofa alcove a journey to the water’s edge.

Interior design by Katie Ridder; architectural design

by Botticelli & Pohl.

The wall color is custom; for a similar look, try Blue Ground

by Farrow & Ball.

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COASTAL LIVING March 2018

GO BIG ON COLOR CUES

even takes the room a little retro,

Youthful red and blue accents

which is an instant mood lifter.

offer an instant connection to

LOOSEN UP The sofa’s soft,

warm, relaxing days by the

relaxed profile and overstuffed

water. A pastel backdrop adds

cushions are just right for

nuance to the palette, keeping

tucking in, and match the beach’s

it from feeling kitschy.

informal, easygoing ethos.

HANG A BIG HINT Artwork—

PANEL THE WALLS Beadboard

especially a piece with a clear,

walls are a dead giveaway to

captivating focal point—is a simple

this haven’s salty spirit, giving

way to shift gears to sand and sea.

the seating area the character

This painting of a vintage postcard

of an old summerhouse.

ERIC PIASECKI/OTTO ARCHIVE

HAVENS | SEASIDE DESIGN

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HAVENS | SEASIDE DESIGN

Sunny Private Spa With streaming light, a screen of palms, and a tub for soaking away the world, even a fivestar resort can’t beat the serenity of this corner bath on Spring Island in South Carolina. We’ll hold your calls.

CHANNEL THE OCEAN

LET THE LIGHT IN Café-

house. Its carved mahogany

Four-by-four glass tile flooring

style plantation shutters

legs contrast the floor’s sleek

makes the room feel as if it’s

leave the upper windows

glass with a bit of age.

floating above the sea’s aqua

clear to usher in plenty of

CLEAR THE AIR Greenery

surface (and creates a colorful

light; the surrounding palms

helps connect the bath to the

counterpoint to the bright

are like graphic natural art.

landscape. Plus, houseplants

white palette). Each tile is

ADD CHARACTER The

such as devil’s ivy and Boston

slightly varied, mimicking the

cast-iron claw-footed tub

fern are air-purifiers—fitting

appearance of moving water.

is befitting an island manor

add-ons for a proper spa.

PETER FRANK EDWARDS; STYLING BY GINNY BRANCH

Interior design by J. Banks; architectural design by Historical Concepts. The tub is

by Waterworks.

24

COASTAL LIVING March 2018

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HAVENS | SEASIDE DESIGN

Locals-only Lounge The natural wood paneling in this discreet den on Fire Island in New York recalls the old-school character of classic beachbar haunts, but with a bit more polish and none of the noisy crowds.

COZY UP TO NATURE Indigenous white oak on the walls and ceiling wraps the room in organic warmth. The wood is cut in a rift-sawn pattern, which gives the graining its refined appearance.

KEEP IT FLUID A pair of sliding barn doors hold the key of a great hideaway (privacy!), but they also keep the space flexible. When open, the cozy nook rolls right into the flow of the rest of the house.

RELAX THE SEATING When it comes to private lounges, keep it loose. Built-in banquettes with woven cotton cushions net more stretching-out space than traditional sofas, and don’t corral occupants in a single corner. The white leather poufs are like the sophisticated cousins of ’70s-era beanbag chairs, and just as cool.

DIM THE LIGHTS Glass globes in colorful fishing nets mix with recessed lighting to cast a mellow glow.

Interior design by Kiki Schilling; architectural design

by Hutker Architects.

The Fisherman pendants are by Zero Lighting.

26

COASTAL LIVING March 2018

ANNIE SCHLECHTER/STYLING BY KARIN LIDBECK; OPPOSITE: DAVID A. LAND/STYLING BY MEAGAN CAMP

to the most essential element

Interior design by Amal Kapen. The wallpaper is

by Meg Braff Designs.

Covert Nap Quarters This built-in bed alcove in Centerport, New York, has the tucked-away feeling of a sleeping berth on a boat, and double the design potential—not a bad spot to set yourself adrift.

GIVE YOURSELF SOME

defining design elements.

peace. White bedding gives

SPACE A queen-size bed (as

Patterns with a symmetrical

deep nooks like this one a

opposed to a king) means

repeat such as this one help

feeling of openness and light.

extra breathing room under

create a feeling of equilibrium

INCLUDE THE TOP BRASS

low-sloping ceilings. Bonus: it

and harmony.

Step up the ship’s-cabin

leaves just enough space for

HIT MUTE This dusky shade of

sensibility with unlacquered

a slim nightstand built right in.

blue paint (Labrador Blue by

brass accents, such as a

CREATE STRIKING SLOPES

Benjamin Moore) is restful and

flexible reading light and

Patterned wallpaper turns

quiet, ideal for dialing down

a sconce reminiscent of a

tricky wall angles into room-

energy and instilling a sense of

porthole window.

March 2018 COASTAL LIVING

27

HAVENS | OUTSIDE IN

View with a Room

SARAH VICKERS; OPPOSITE: COURTESY OF CATHERINE M. AUSTIN INTERIOR DESIGN (PORTRAIT), COURTESY OF MANUFACTURERS (8)

Wading game: designer Catherine Austin uses this leggy Bermuda scene as the starting point for a brilliant sunroom

28

COASTAL LIVING March 2018

BY R ACHA EL B U R R OW

1 One-of-a-kind find: Look for similar leafy chandeliers at Chairish.

2

3

7

THE FLAMINGOINSPIRED SUNROOM

Pretzel rattan armchairs are 1950s gems.

4 5

6

Mimic the birds’ graceful curves with a shapely lamp base.

CATHERINE AUSTIN, a North Carolina–based interior designer, is a member of the Coastal Living Designer Network.

1 Five-Arm/Light Italian Palm Leaf Tropical Tole Chandelier, vintage; similar styles at chairish .com

2 Water Reflections No. 7 by Wendy Concannon, $2,150 (40" by 40", limited edition); wendy concannon.com

3 Matthew Williamson for Osborne & Little Flamingo Club Fabric in 01, available to the trade; osborne andlittle.com

4 China Seas Bali Diamond Fabric in Coral, available to the trade; quadrille fabrics.com Kravet Heat Wave Fabric in Palm, available to the trade; kravet.com

5 Society Social Pink Square Gourd Lamp, $160; shopsocietysocial .com

6 Dash & Albert Gypsy Stripe Woven Cotton Rug, from $46 (2' by 3'); wisteria .com

7 Baba Souk Cactus Silk Pillow, $44 (insert not included); babasouk.ca

March 2018 COASTAL LIVING

29

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Luxury glampgrounds beyond your wildest dreams PAGE 43

NAVIGATOR Where to go now on the coast

Anemomilos Apartments, Folegandros, Greece (page 36)

THE GUIDE

50 Secret Places to Visit Now

COURTESY OF ANEMOMILOS APARTMENTS/ANEMOMILOSAPARTMENTS.COM

From far-flung getaways to gems that have been hiding in plain sight, meet your new travel obsessions

BY T R AC E Y M I N K IN AND LAUREN P H ILLIP S

March 2018 COASTAL LIVING

33

NAVIGATOR | THE GUIDE

Satellite Island, Tasmania, Australia

Ocean Tally, Eleuthera, Bahamas

TASMANIA, AUSTRALIA

ELEUTHERA, BAHAMAS

An unpretentious—and completely private— outpost of Southern Hemisphere wilderness

A storybook-style, whitewashed escape on this far-flung Out Island

SATELLITE ISLAND

Pick your ultimate hideaway on this private island in the middle of Tasmania’s D’Entrecasteaux Channel: a stunning boathouse, a clifftop luxury tent, or a sunlit, deck-wrapped summerhouse. No matter where you sleep, Satellite’s luxurious isolation is all yours. Rates start at $1,450; satelliteisland.com.au.

34

COASTAL LIVING March 2018

OCEAN TALLY

Eleuthera, that wild, slender strand of coral and limestone that lies so far in kilometers and style from the buzz of Nassau, has slowly come into the spotlight for its exquisite beaches.

And now, Ocean Tally’s Morocco-influenced cluster of ocean-facing cottages makes overnights simply irresistible. Rates start at $375; oceantally.com.

3 SECRET WATERFALLS SALTO DE JAVIRA

EL CUBANO NATIONAL PARK Cuba Dominican Tree House Village, El Valle, Dominican Republic

TRANCOSO, BRAZIL

CLOCKWISE FROM LEFT: COURTESY OF DOMINICANTREEHOUSEVILLAGE.COM, GREG ELMS/GETTY IMAGES, COURTESY OF LESROCHESROUGES.COM; OPPOSITE, FROM TOP: ELISE HASSEY, COURTESY OF OCEAN TALLY/THOMAZ MARCONDES

UXUA CASA HOTEL & SPA

A UNESCO-protected town and coastline that maintains the aura of a bohemian hideaway

In one of Brazil’s hottest destinations, these colorful casas have been carefully restored and crafted to evoke the legacy of a community that remains unperturbed by the influx of roads and electricity in the 1980s. Rates start at $495; uxua.com.

PENDER ISLAND, BRITISH COLUMBIA

WOODS ON PENDER

A cool cluster of renovated Airstreams in Canada’s Gulf Islands

Camping was never like this.

Just off the coast of British Columbia sits tiny, coniferstudded Pender Island. And just above one of Pender’s coves sits this realization of everyone’s Airstream dreams: gorgeously renovated trailers with cedar decks, some with plunge tubs and views of Mt. Baker.

A fashion-forward bar and restaurant on property will keep you a very happy camper. Rates start at $180; woodsonpender.com.

EL VALLE, DOMINICAN REPUBLIC

DOMINICAN TREE HOUSE VILLAGE

A canopy-level escape on the island’s beach-blessed Samaná Peninsula

For those who think the Dominican Republic is all about all-inclusives, think again. This jungle-rustic warren of open-air structures has a barefoot joie de vivre. And when you’re ready to come out from the trees, the golden sands of El Valle Beach complete the castaway fantasy. Rates start at $310; dominicantree housevillage.com.

QAMEA ISLAND, FIJI

QAMEA RESORT AND SPA

SAINT-RAPHAËL, FRANCE

HÔTEL LES ROCHES ROUGES

Refined midcentury design celebrating the Riviera’s timeless appeal

If a single spot can capture the mythos of the Côte d’Azur, it might be this one, with its saltwater pool jutting out of the rocky shore, array of outdoor lounges, and streamlined interiors that highlight the region’s light and hues. Rates start at $244; designhotels.com/ hotel-les-roches-rouges.

Near popular Trinidad, hike to these icy, darkturquoise waters for an exhilarating dip among jungle-covered limestone (and a swimmable cave behind the falls).

SALTO DE SOCOA

NATIONAL PARK LOS HAITISES Dominican Republic Join locals taking a swim in these mangrove-guarded, jade-colored waters at the base of a 60-foot-high plunge.

KALUAHINE FALLS

WAIPI‘O VALLEY BEACH Hawai‘i Island, Hawai‘i Water from verdant cliffs (pictured above) drops right into the ocean. For a twowaterfall day, hike from here to the 1,450foot-high Hi‘ilawe Falls.

—Mary Tomlinson

Hôtel Les Roches Rouges, Saint-Raphaël, France

A private island resort that takes you back to the beach in luxurious nostalgia

Beautifully below the radar (and right on the beach) in this South Pacific realm of overwater bungalows, Qamea Resort and Spa’s collection of small villas tucked among lush tropical gardens is the power move for the Fiji veteran—or the traveler who wants to feel like one. Rates start at $606; qamea.com.

March 2018 COASTAL LIVING

35

CAVALLO, FRANCE

FOLEGANDROS, GREECE

Corsica’s little-known sister, with a Catherine Deneuve–meets–Marcello Mastroianni vibe

The classic beauty of Mykonos and Santorini, minus all those tourists

HÔTEL & SPA DES PÊCHEURS 9 SECRET BEACHES ASTWOOD COVE BEACH

Bermuda Hidden below a park lies what may be Bermuda’s leastvisited (and loveliest) little cove.

GROMIN DOLAC

Hvar, Croatia This jewel is lined with pebbled shores and 17th-century stone houses.

FIORDO DI FURORE

Furore, Italy A quiet little town on the buzzy Amalfi Coast is home to this sweet sliver of shore.

JAMES BOND BEACH

Oracabessa, Jamaica The sleepy golden strand is near Bond author Ian Fleming’s former estate.

PUNTA MOSQUITO

Isla Holbox, Mexico Share the beauty with local flamingos on this under-the-radar island (pictured above).

TIGERTAIL BEACH

Marco Island, Florida A pristine Gulf of Mexico sandbar, it requires wading across a lagoon.

MAKALAWENA BEACH

Hawai‘i Island, Hawai‘i The beach is generally empty, save for sea turtles and palm trees.

SEAWALL BEACH

Phippsburg, Maine Trek two miles for the serene payoff of this insider find bordering a conservation area.

SECRET BEACH

Samuel Boardman State Scenic Corridor, Oregon This aptly named beauty is accessible only at low tide. —M.T.

36

COASTAL LIVING March 2018

Known as the Mustique of the Mediterranean, the tiny island one mile off the coast of Corsica lures celebrities seeking privacy. The only hotel on Cavallo, the elegant Hôtel & Spa des Pêcheurs has 50 rooms set in a collection of stone cottages that hugs the shoreline, dotted with massive granite boulders. Rates start at $294; hoteldespecheurs.com.

ANEMOMILOS APARTMENTS

Post one Instagram shot, and your friends will either divorce you in jealousy or start frantically booking their flights to this exquisite isle. Everything’s here— whitewashed stone houses, pink flowers, the cerulean Aegean—except the crowds.

Complete the picture at the stunning Anemomilos Apartments. Rates start at $182; anemomilos apartments.com/hotel.

La Luna, St. George, Grenada

NAVIGATOR | THE GUIDE

Hôtel & Spa des Pêcheurs, Cavallo, France

ST. GEORGE, GRENADA

CLOCKWISE FROM TOP, LEFT: COURTESY OF KRISTEN YAX, COURTESY OF DESIGN HOTELS, COURTESY OF HÔTEL & SPA DES PÊCHEURS, COURTESY OF CASA ANGELINA

Casa Angelina, Praiano, Italy

LA LUNA

A best-kept-secret island in the West Indies with a Bali-influenced, intimate resort

Savvy Caribbean crawlers have long loved this FrancoCreole island, and have kept their secret close to the vest. But now, with direct service on Norwegian Air and Jet Blue, the cool cat is about to come out of the bag. Get there soon and book into La Luna, an Italian-designed, Baliinfluenced resort of the lowest-key high style. Rates start at $385; laluna.com.

INISHBOFIN, IRELAND

INISHBOFIN HOUSE HOTEL AND MARINE SPA

Off the Connemara coast, a wild Ireland that’s still intact (and within reach)

On the Island of the White Cow, scenic walking loops wind past crystal aqua waters, sandy beaches

dotted with dark boulders, and crumbling reminders of former residents that can be traced to the Bronze Age. Stay in waterfront Inishbofin House’s contemporary lodge in the middle of the island, where the 140 or so residents have committed to protecting the flora and fauna through sustainable tourism practices. Rates start at $47; inishbofinhouse.com.

MONTE ARGENTARIO, ITALY

HOTEL TORRE DI CALA PICCOLA

On the lesser-known Tuscan coast, a breathtaking offshore hotel

Connected to Italy’s boot only by three narrow strips of land, this rocky semiisland has two scenic ports tucked among terraced hillsides of cypress and olive trees. Rising high above it all on a 300-foot bluff, Hotel Torre di Cala Piccola—former host to Liz and Dick, to start—

offers a prime vantage point for gazing out across the azure sea to distant isles. Rates start at $164; torredicalapiccola.com.

PRAIANO, ITALY

CASA ANGELINA EAUDESEA EXPERIENCE ROOMS Luxuriously restored fishing cottages carved out of cliffs below the bustling Amalfi Coast

Is there anything more perfect than the Amalfi Coast? Yes. Casa Angelina, a picturesque resort in the Amalfi village of Praiano, has something even more remarkable on offer: An elevator, 200 steps, and a pathway into the cliff lead to four fishermen’s houses carved from the stone.

Redone in perfect restraint, these are hideaways of the first order, and connect you directly to the heartbeat of sea life that has sustained the Italian coast here for millennia. Rates start at $955; casangelina.com.

March 2018 COASTAL LIVING

37

NAVIGATOR | THE GUIDE

5 SECRET UNINHABITED ISLANDS ISLA CERRALVO

Baja California, Mexico This scuba-diving hot spot off the coast of La Paz is affectionately nicknamed Jacques Cousteau Island.

EIL MALK

Rock Islands, Palau Swim in the island’s deep saltwater lake, home to jellyfish that have evolved in this isolated spot to have no stingers.

Spain Bask in hot springs and mud baths on Ibiza’s lesserknown cousin in the Balearic Islands.

CALADESI ISLAND

Florida Kayak 30 minutes from Honeymoon Island off Dunedin to buttercream-white sands surrounded by clear Gulf waters.

Four Seasons Voavah Private Island, Baa Atoll, Maldives

BAA ATOLL, MALDIVES

FOUR SEASONS VOAVAH PRIVATE ISLAND

The first private island from Four Seasons and the apex of secluded luxury

This five-acre island is set in a UNESCO Biosphere Reserve, a 40-minute seaplane transfer from the nearest airport. A manta ray population patrols the turquoise waters, which can be explored aboard the island’s exclusive yacht, while the villas, suites, and venues avail it to private

38

COASTAL LIVING March 2018

TATOOSH ISLAND

events of any scale—all absolutely free of uninvited guests. Rates start at $40,000; fourseasons .com/maldivesvoavah.

LE FRANÇOIS, MARTINIQUE

LA MAISON DE L’ILET OSCAR

Just offshore France’s sophisticated Caribbean outpost, a boho-forward private-island resort

If you haven’t yet discovered Martinique, that Caribbean possession of France that is home to some of the finest agricole rhums in the world,

you’re already in for a surprise. Now hop offshore to this private island’s bohemian resort. You’ve gone native, and there are still superb croissants every morning. Rates start at $263; iletoscar.com.

YELAPA, MEXICO

VERANA

The adventurer’s retreat just around the bend from of-the-moment Puerto Vallarta

Arrive at this eclectic hotel after a boat ride and a hike into the jungle, where the colorful compound’s

Washington Wild and windswept, Tatoosh sits at the entrance to the Straits of Juan de Fuca off the northwesternmost tip of the Olympic Peninsula (pictured above).

—Taylor Eisenhauer

pared-down houses seem to sprout organically from the trees and rocky hills.

Remote, reclusive, and romantic, these cottages are the perfect home base for wandering the flowerlined jungle paths, exploring smooth ocean waters, or abandoning the itinerary altogether. Rates start at $240; verana.com.

FROM LEFT: COURTESY OF FOUR SEASONS PRIVATE ISLAND MALDIVES AT VOAVAH, FRANK PALI/ALL CANADA PHOTOS/GETTYIMAGES

S’ESPALMADOR

ċĝĥħĪġĝī ęĪĝ ĥęĜĝ ęĪħĭĦĜ ĥĝęĤī ĒĠĝ đęĮħĪ ěęĪĜ ĥęģĝī ĬĠĝĥ ĥħĪĝ ĪĝįęĪĜġĦğ đċ

ăęĪĦ "v ěęīĠ Ěęěģ ħĦ ĜġĦġĦğ × !v ħĦ ğĪħěĝĪġĝī × v ħĦ ęĤĤ ħĬĠĝĪ ĨĭĪěĠęīĝī

āĪĝĜġĬ ęĨĨĪħĮęĤ ĪĝĩĭġĪĝĜ člj ĝĪĝĜ Ěı āęĨġĬęĤ čĦĝ ĀęĦģ ÕēđÿÖ Č ÿ ƣ ! & āęĨġĬęĤ čĦĝ

You probably forgot what you ate.

But you remember everything else.

NAVIGATOR | THE GUIDE

BUDVA, MONTENEGRO

AMAN SVETI STEFAN

A Medieval villageturned-resort in one of Europe’s last secret corners

A manmade isthmus is all that tethers this fortified island of stone villas with red-tiled roofs, shaded courtyards, and cobbled lanes to the pink-pebbled beaches of the mainland.

The village, which seems to hover above the Adriatic, stood for 600 years (and did time as a state-run tourism spot beloved by jet-setters in the ’50s) before Aman reinvigorated it as a luxury resort. Rates start at $911; aman.com/ resorts/aman-sveti-stefan.

MEDJUMBE ISLAND, MOZAMBIQUE

ANANTARA MEDJUMBE ISLAND RESORT Bone-white sands, the warm Indian Ocean, and a tiny island paradise

40

COASTAL LIVING March 2018

Anantara Medjumbe Island Resort, Mozambique

This may be the ultimate luxury escape: Fly to Mozambique along Africa’s southern coast, and then hop aboard your bespoke helicopter. Skim across turquoise Indian Ocean waters to that bright white tendril of sand all by its blissful self. Share the 12-villa resort with other lucky souls, or take the whole thing over yourself.

Rates start at $758 (the whole island for $12,948); medjumbe.anantara.com.

LOFOTEN ISLANDS, NORWAY

REINE RORBUER

An Arctic fantasy: cozy, crimson-and-ochre cottages and azure waters on Norway’s northern coast

You’ve promised yourself a trip to the ends of the Earth, and this may be the best way to do it: amid the rugged, rocky splendor of this Scandinavian archipelago,

under a midnight sun, ensconced in brightly colored fishing cabins— rorbuer—repurposed charmingly for savvy travelers, and reveling in the magnetic romance of the far, far North. Rates start at $210; classicnorway .no/hotell/reine-rorbuer.

PORTOBELO, PANAMA

EL OTRO LADO— PRIVATE RETREAT A Pop Art jungle resort tucked inside a lush national park

Instagram was made for this cotton candy–colored cluster

CLOCKWISE FROM TOP, LEFT: COURTESY OF EINAR ENGDAL, COURTESY OF ANANTARA HOTELS, RESORTS & SPAS, COURTESY OF RAYAVADEE KRABI, COURTESY OF ALMA ALMARAN

Reine Rorbuer, Lofoten Islands, Norway

3 SECRET RESTAURANTS + BARS FLOYD’S PELICAN BAR

Parottee Bay, Jamaica The ultimate shack: made of driftwood and perched on stilts over Caribbean shallows

NIDO AT MAR ADENTRO

Los Cabos, Mexico The high-art nest (literally): walls of twiglike latticework floating above a serene pool

THE GROTTO AT RAYAVADEE RESORT

ST HELENA

MANTIS ST HELENA

Napoleon’s final exile, now the newest remote luxury escape

El Otro Lado, Portobelo, Panama

of villas that whispers a little midcentury, a little Caribbean, and a whole lot of charm. The verdant wilds of Portobelo National Park and the serene waters of Portobelo Bay add natural gifts to the intoxicating mix. Rates start at $525; elotrolado.com.

Used in the 19th century as the place of banishment for the then–most dangerous man on the planet, this volcanic subtropical island’s ruggedness is softened by the additions of a 30-room luxury hotel—with select rooms in restored 18thcentury officers’ barracks— and an airport, and by its 500-plus endemic species and local population of 4,500 people known as Saints. Rates start at $285; mantissthelena.com.

USA PINE ISLAND, FLORIDA

THE TARPON LODGE

A salty dose of Old Florida culture, and surprisingly within reach

Old Florida is having a

serious moment these days, and this island perched off the Gulf Coast feels a million miles—and years—away from the hurly burly of Fort Myers. To make the escape complete, bed down at the gracious, old-school Tarpon Lodge.

Rates start at $115; tarponlodge.com.

NANTUCKET, MASSACHUSETTS

WHITE ELEPHANT LOFTS

Hidden apartments right in the middle of Nantucket’s historic town center

This may be the best secret in the world: Thanks to the esteemed White Elephant on tony, fabulous Nantucket, you can vacation in town, right above those shops that call like sirens to you by day. Insiders know

Krabi, Thailand The hideout cave (pictured above): cocktails served beneath a limestone cliff —L.P.

that the resort holds a pair of sunlit, modern lofts above the cobblestones, and they’re yours to inhabit— if, that is, you know to ask.

Rates start at $1,800; whiteelephanthotel.com.

PLUM ISLAND, MASSACHUSETTS

BLUE—INN ON THE BEACH

A serene, sophisticated inn on a little-known island

No, this is not the Hamptons.

But this little boutique hotel, with its crisp blueand-white interiors, will make you think you’re there.

Instead, you’ve discovered a beachy getaway hidden in plain sight between Boston and the New Hampshire border. Count your blessings you found it early. Rates start at $269; blueinn.com.

March 2018 COASTAL LIVING

41

PACIFIC CITY, OREGON

HEADLANDS COASTAL LODGE & SPA

A new Pacific Northwest resort that feels like it’s on the edge of the world

Situated alongside a protected natural area on a stretch of Oregon coastline that, shockingly, remains an untapped (and relatively undeveloped) paradise, Headlands welcomes those seeking a quiet escape to a handsome, woodsy lodge that celebrates enduring coastal pastimes like beach bonfires and surfing.

Rates start at $320; headlandslodge.com.

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MARCH18

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NAVIGATOR | THE GUIDE

HUNTING ISLAND, SOUTH CAROLINA

FROM LEFT: RUBENS ALARCON/ALAMY, COURTESY OF DOUGLAS MERRIAM

HUNTING ISLAND STATE PARK

A barrier island’s best-kept secret: its one little cottage

Pacific City, Oregon

Close to the charming town of Beaufort, this beloved wild place lures Lowcountry day-trippers who gape at the windswept marvel of it all. But you know the inside play: a camping area and—better still—one darling, just-rustic-enough cabin that can be booked (far in advance). Wave goodbye to the day-trippers, and occupy your kingdom.

Rates start at $200; southcarolinaparks.com/ hunting-island/lodging.

4 SECRET GLAMPGROUNDS GALÁPAGOS SAFARI CAMP

MENDOCINO GROVE

Galápagos Islands, Ecuador African safari style pops up in Darwin’s renowned backyard at Ecuador’s first eco-luxury camp; galapagos safaricamp.com.

TIPI VALLEY

Mendocino, California The chic furnished tents in the forest are only a quarter mile from cliffside beaches; mendocinogrove.com.

SANDY PINES CAMPGROUND

Algarve, Portugal At this low-key, wave-blessed eco-retreat, sleep beneath the stars in tents and tepees, and reconnect with nature through yoga and surfing; tipivalley.com.

Kennebunkport, Maine Designer-bedecked tents (pictured above) make this a grown-up’s version of summer camp heaven, with bustling Dock Square just 15 minutes away; sandypines camping.com. —T.E.

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E TH

CHASING

paradise

STORY AND PHOTOGRAPHS by Jad Davenport

E KEY TO A LD TH 2,0 HO 0 ST 0Y JU EA COASTAL LIVING March 2018

HT G

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THE IND I A N T OF OC AR E HE AN , M I

Y • DOES THE R E GA ST Y RD M EN D L O O R-

IN

F

Y EXIST? THE SEY L L CH A RE EL N LE E D S, E

Anse Patates on La Digue island

Guide Marc Barrallon on Félicité island

B

ats as big as hawks flap past my head. I flinch, and my guide chuckles. “It’s mango season, and the bats are going a little crazy,” he says.

“They’re in paradise.”

Sunrise has just broken over the island of Félicité in the Seychelles, and wild cinnamon trees perfume the morning mist. For the past hour, guide Marc Barrallon and I have bushwhacked our way up this jungle canyon. We’ve squeezed through toppled boulders, ducked Tarzanesque vines, and, now, dodged drunken bats. This isn’t any ordinary trek. We’re searching for the Garden of Eden.

I fell in love with the legendary paradise in Sunday School at the age of 8, coloring mimeographed scenes of happy lions and lambs and a strategically dressed Adam and Eve. That coloring-book version of Eden lasted for decades, right up until the moment I jumped from a Black Hawk helicopter that had landed in a dusty valley in Iraq.

I was a photojournalist covering the war. We’d set down somewhere between the Tigris and Euphrates rivers, inspiring

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COASTAL LIVING March 2018

Wild coconut trees on Frégate island

the door gunner to scream over the roar of the blades, “THIS IS IT! THIS IS THE GARDEN OF EDEN!” I squinted through the rotor wash at the empty, brown valley known as the cradle of civilization. No lions, lambs, peacocks, or even trees in sight.

My childhood vision evaporated into the desert air.

Until now. Here in this hidden Seychelles valley, I feel my imagined paradise returning. And I’m not alone: It was on these same islands that the swashbuckling 19th-century explorer Major-General Charles George Gordon found what he described as “a magnificent tree, curious beyond description.” It was, Gordon believed, the fabled Tree of Knowledge.

Barrallon stops mid-jungle, takes off his pack, and pulls out a water bottle. “Not far now,” he says between gulps. “I can hear the trees.”

I stare into the green shadows. All I can hear are fruit bats squabbling in the mango trees and geckos chirping on the wild vanilla vines. But in the quiet moments it comes: a low whisper.

“Is that them?” But Barrallon is off again, vanished into another boulder labyrinth.

Seychelles fruit bats

Aldabra giant tortoise

Six Senses Zil Pasyon Resort on Félicité

I

f you’re going to search for paradise, the Seychelles is a great place to start. Guarded by the vastness of the Indian Ocean, this archipelago nation of 115 islands scattered across more than half a million square miles was among the last discovered on the planet. When French settlers arrived in 1770, they found a world seemingly untouched by humankind.

When Gordon arrived here as a wounded, battle-haunted soldier in the summer of 1881, he came by ship—the way every visitor did until 1971, when an international airport opened on the island of Mahé. It still takes most Americans two days to reach the islands by air. This remoteness is part of the allure that draws the adventurous as well as the privacy-seeking rich and famous. Prince William and Kate honeymooned here, and the island where I begin my quest—Frégate—is a favorite of Elizabeth Hurley and George Clooney.

Frégate is normally a 15-minute helicopter flight from Mahé.

But today there’s a flight delay. “Giant tortoises,” the Danish pilot crackles over the headset. We’re hovering above a grassy helipad. Anders points at a half-dozen gray humps gathered

there and keys the mic again. “They have the whole island to explore, but they sit right there on the airfield.” He sighs. “I guess they like the view.”

I like the view, too. From 200 feet up I have a tern’s-eye panorama. Frégate is barely one square mile, but it’s dense with riotous wilderness and rimmed with seven empty beaches.

Every groove and fissure on the island’s granite peaks is bursting with thick takamaka, gardenia, and wisteria forests. Frégate is God’s own Chia Pet. The tortoises retreat, we land, and I’m golf-carted off to a cliffside villa at Frégate Island Private, the island’s sole resort.

I’m distracted for the rest of the day by a mini-Eden here: a plunge pool the size of a backyard putting green that overlooks the beach, and a breeze-cooled daybed. I loll in the chilly waters, nap in the shade, and dream of exploration and discovery.

The next morning I set off with Steven Larue, a native-born Seychellois and the resort’s guest manager. We take a golf cart out to a rocky headland and pick up a trail that circumnavigates the island. While we hike over exposed bedrock, Larue explains March 2018 COASTAL LIVING

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how the mysterious geologic origins of the inner Seychelles islands intrigued Gordon. “Every single other oceanic island is made up of volcanic rocks or limestone,” he says. “But we’re solid granite, created more than 160 million years ago when the world was one piece.” When that “piece,” the supercontinent Gondwanaland, tore apart into Africa, Australia, and Asia, the shattered peaks left behind created the Seychelles. “Gordon loved that,” Larue says. “He thought Adam first set foot here because we were once the center of the world.”

We emerge from the forest onto a glacis, one of the distinctive stone peaks that gives the Seychelles a rocky coastline marked by hidden coves and secret beaches. A fresh wind lifts from the ocean, and we can see sailboats on the horizon. Overhead, in an empty blue sky, a halo of white fairy terns sparkles in the sun.

The island looks untamed, but it’s an illusion. Originally covered by the forests we’ve hiked through, Frégate was clear-cut by settlers who planted more commercial forests of coconuts, cinnamon, nutmeg, and pepper trees. This landscape endured until the late 1990s, when a German businessman who’d fallen in love with the island opened a luxury hotel, and set out to return his possession to its botanical—and zoological—heritage.

“He got rid of the introduced plants and animals, and created a resort to support the conservation efforts,” Larue says.

“We only had 150 of the wild Aldabra giant tortoises left. We set up a tortoise nursery, and now the island has more than 2,000 of them. The seabirds are back. The wild fruit is back, so even the bats are back.”

But what about Gordon’s Tree of Knowledge? It turns out to have had mystery attached to it for centuries, Larue says. Sailors reported spotting enormous nuts floating on the water, but never found trees to match. “They thought the coconuts came from trees beneath the sea,” he says, “so they called them coco de mer—sea coconut.” To this day, coco de mer remains exceedingly rare, supposedly growing wild on only two islands in the world, nearby Praslin and Silhouette in the archipelago. The trees are tightly guarded, Larue says. The government monitors every nut that falls, and even a small coco de mer nut can cost hundreds of Euros. You need a permit to export even one.

Later, at the island’s natural history museum, I take my first coco de mer nut into my hands. Drained of its meat and milk and then dried, it’s the size of an overinflated basketball and weighs maybe 10 pounds. A fresh, full-grown one can weigh 100 pounds. It’s not the weight, though, but the shape that surprises me. I feel as if I’m holding the Venus de Milo— undraped—by the hips. Turning the nut over in my hands, from backside to thighs and belly, I understand why Gordon believed he’d found the forbidden fruit.

After promising Larue I’ll seek out those wild groves of coco de mer, I’m waylaid like Ulysses by the Seychelles’ siren calls—first, to Félicité island, 19 miles north of Frégate, home to its own new luxury resort, the Six Senses Zil Pasyon, with jungle villas and captivating views. Once there, I hear of yet another Seychelles beauty, La Digue, a tiny island shaped like a shark’s tooth just 30 minutes away by boat. It’s said to have

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COASTAL LIVING March 2018

Coco de mer husk (left) and regular coconuts (right)

Exploring Eden off Félicité

Villas at Frégate Island Private

Octopus curry on La Digue

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Beach hangout at Six Senses Zil Pasyon

the most beautiful beaches in the entire archipelago. The Tree of Knowledge can wait another few days.

“No airport, no traffic light, no stress,” says Andrew D’Souza, a local guide who meets me at the dock with a small motorized buggy. “This is why I love La Digue.” The four-square-mile island has around 2,800 residents, he says, about five cars, and about a thousand bicycles.

Cloud shadows dapple the hills above us, and beaches wink out between coconut forests as we leave the sandy streets of La Passe village and head to Anse Source D’Argent. It’s a veritable advertisement for paradise: a beach of bright sand and turquoise shallows. We buy a couple of papaya milkshakes and wade through the warm water. Small waves fold over themselves like liquid origami.

Later that afternoon, over a plate of octopus curry, D’Souza confesses his youthful disenchantment with his idyllic homeland. “When you’re a kid growing up on an island, all you want to do is get away,” he says. “The Seychelles felt so far from the world. We don’t have concerts or amusement parks. You see all these things on television and you are sad. You are missing out.”

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La Digue's bounty: cinnamon (above) and an abundance of fruit

As soon as he could, D’Souza left for England. “I thought I’d find what I was looking for there.” But he didn’t. “The city was cold and dark all the time, the buildings cut out the sky, and you spend all your time inside because of the weather. I missed the freedom of being outdoors, hiking the mountains, snorkeling the reefs, riding my bicycle around the island.”

How lucky it is to have held, lost, but then recovered one’s paradise, I think, as the small boat skims me back to Félicité.

I fall to chatting with a fellow passenger, Marc Barrallon, who works as a naturalist guide at the resort where I’m staying.

I confide in him my desire to journey to Praslin or Silhouette islands to see the coco de mer in the wild. He leans in conspiratorially. “No one knows about it,” he says, “but we have them on Félicité island, too.” His voice drops to a whisper. “I can take you there tomorrow.”

W

hich is how I find myself on this beautiful morning in the canyon on Félicité. When I finally catch up to Barrallon, the canyon walls have fallen back, and the sun breaks through. I look up, and there they

The forbidden fruit? Coco de mer on Félicité

Paradise, indeed: Félicité island

are, towering over the jungle canopy. Fronds as big as sails sway in the wind. Clutches of glossy coco de mer nuts glow beneath the crowns. I place my hands on the nearest lichencrusted trunk. The tree is humming in the wind. The vibration sends a thrill through my fingers.

Unlike D’Souza, Gordon never made it back to his Eden. A few years after leaving the Seychelles, he was cut down during the siege of Khartoum. But he left behind a map marking his discovery, and his bold and romantic claim to having discovered the legendary paradise. I think about my own mental map from Sunday school and how I lost it in the Iraqi desert.

And as the tree hums its song to me in this secret valley, on this mounded fragment of the ancient geological world in the middle of a vast ocean, I realize I have returned to that place of beauty and perfection from my childhood. The mimeographed page springs to life: I am touching the Tree of Knowledge. Above me hangs the forbidden fruit. I’ve found my way back to Eden.

Photographer/writer Jad Davenport is a frequent contributor to Coastal Living. Follow him on Instagram: @jaddavenport.

get here Air Seychelles connects to Mahé International Airport from Paris, Beijing, Mumbai, Mauritius, Johannesburg, Abu Dhabi, and Antananarivo (on Madagascar).

stay here Frégate Island Private Resort, the only resort on the island, has 16 familysize villas with large plunge pools, all hidden among a former coconut plantation.

The island has seven beaches (you can reserve your own private beach for the day) and more than 2,000 wild giant tortoises.

There’s a PADI dive center on site. Rates start at

$3,889; fregate.com. The new Six Senses Zil Pasyon on Félicité is a private resort with 30 plungepool villas and several white-sand beaches. The resort offers day trips to nearby La Digue island and uninhabited Cocos island. Rates start at $1,600; sixsenses.com.

The Raffles Seychelles has 86 villas with private plunge pools on a hillside overlooking the beaches of Praslin island, just a 15-minute flight from Mahé International Airport. The Raffles provides easy access to Vallée de Mai Nature Reserve, with its coco de mer forest. Rates start at $948; raffles.com.

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COURTESY OF TRUE NORTH ADVENTURE CRUISES

The True North (page 58) anchored among Indonesia’s Waygag islands

ONLY

BY BOAT Three once-in-a-lifetime cruises to destinations defined by the sea

March 2018 COASTAL LIVING

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DARWIN’S DREAM Galápagos cruising at its most evolved aboard the MV Origin

BY T E R RY WARD

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COASTAL LIVING March 2018

The volcanic shores of the Galápagos Islands

TAKE IT HOME

Galápagos sea lions

Buy a bag of organic Galápagosgrown coffee from family farm Lava Java in the highlands of Santa Cruz.

Marine iguana

Blue-footed booby

MATT DUTILE (5)

TWO CRAZY THINGS occur simultaneously on my first day in the Galápagos Islands. One: I am voluntarily snorkeling in water barely 59 degrees Fahrenheit.

Two: Kicking just ahead of me is my septuagenarian mother—calling out, “Shark!” before swimming toward the animal for a closer view.

In the months leading up to our family cruise in the Galápagos, my sister and I had taken my parents on a few training sessions, so we’d be better prepared to snorkel in Darwin’s realm. It hadn’t been pretty. In the Florida Keys, my father had bellied back onto the boat, mask completely fogged up and gasping for breath.

And in Jamaica, my mother had been terrified by the open water and what might be lurking in it. Yet here we were, minutes into our Galápagos vacation and finning toward a toothy predator.

The Galápagos has that effect: In the wild, you grow bold.

And while we may be swimming with the sharks, we are cruising in a floating lap of luxury. Our home for seven nights is the 20-passenger mega yacht MV Origin, stretching a pristinely polished 142 feet long. The 10 staterooms have large windows for eyeing the volcanic scenery, and the ensuite baths are similarly open to the outside, so you can sightsee while you shampoo. There’s a hot tub astern for stargazing. And the upper deck is a sleek assembly of offwhite daybeds, chaises, and hammocks.

It’s an intimate ship, but a mighty crew: 13, including two Galápagos National Park naturalists whose informed commentary appeals as much to the 7-yearold Manhattanite among us as it does to my 71-year-old parents. But this is not a lecture cruise. “If you think you’re on vacation, I’m sorry. It’s like a summer camp,” says our naturalist, Maria Gabriela Espinoza Peña, as she details

TOP SECRET September to mid-December is low season for cruising in the Galápagos, when the garúa (mist) brings cooler temperatures but mostly dry, comfortable days. You’ll share the ship with fewer people at this time, heightening the private-yacht effect.

Private-yacht pleasures aboard the MV Origin

another day’s itinerary that will include more snorkeling, sea kayaking excursions to spot sea lions, and nature walks ashore.

At Punta Suarez, on the southernmost island of Española, we step from our Zodiac to part a sea of marine iguanas commandeering the pathway like a welcoming committee. (“They’re charging their batteries in the sun,” Peña quips.)

On Bartolomé Island, my sister and I opt to climb 400 wooden stairs to a viewpoint, while my parents join the wee New Yorker and Peña for a shoreline cruise.

We hear later that they hit a Galápagos jackpot: mating penguins.

I feel like everything is a Galápagos jackpot. We paddle past blue-footed boobies, have our swim fins nipped by a baby sea lion, and simply loll in a hammock on deck while watching frigate birds ride the ship’s thermals.

Just like savvy managers in a casino who arrive with a free cocktail at the moment that you’re thinking of leaving the slot machine, our crew anticipates our need for recovery with the perfect incentive: a fresh juice and warm empanada, or a table laden with Ecuadorean seafood specialties for lunch. On our final day, my sister and I consider bailing on the sunset snorkeling excursion for a celebratory coupe of sparkling wine. We are tired from squeezing into our wetsuits, and happy hour is calling.

But there are our parents—born-again snorkelers if ever there were—already zipped into their neoprene and shouting from the Zodiac. “C’mon, girls! Who knows what we’ll see!”

Cocktails can wait. The wildlife and shared wonder of the Galápagos, I remind myself, will not.

Terry Ward is a freelance travel writer based in Tampa, Florida.

BOOK IT NOW Ecoventura’s MV Origin runs year-round, seven-night cruises in the Galápagos from San Cristobal. Rates start at $7,850 and include all meals and snacks, open bar, excursions, watersports, and gear; origingalapagos.com.

March 2018 COASTAL LIVING

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Norway’s mist-veiled Geiranger Fjord

BLUE HEAVEN Fjord-borne journeying among Norway’s eternal wonders with Silversea

BY JANIC E WA LD HEN DER SON

the ports of call around the world I’ve arrived at by sea, but I can say this: Among all the wild, sophisticated, and distant places I have explored from the water, it was a meditative journey up the Norwegian coast that rocked my personal boat the most. The epiphany was delivered by Silversea’s Silver Whisper, which traced Norway’s west coast to the country’s— and Europe’s—northernmost region. And delivered discovery, both external and internal, all along the way.

I CAN’T EVEN COUNT

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Perhaps it began with the counterintuitive companionship of a midnight sun. On our first night at sea, we stayed on deck most of the night to celebrate the novelty, sipping our butler-poured Champagne and belting out the Beatles’ “Good Day Sunshine” as the sun skirted the water’s edge until its dawn ascent.

This was a potent precedent, as doing nothing but watching was never easier, or more rewarding. I spent hours leaning against the teak railing, enchanted by the coast’s sheer verticality, cobalt water, and

emerald islands made entirely of mountain. Through the hug of mist along the shore, clutches of tiny, gabled-roof cottages popped out in bright, Crayola-like scarlet and lemon, as though planted by the illustrator of a fairy-tale.

But not all scenes were of whimsy and charm. In a narrow strait of the Geiranger Fjord, we passed slowly between the Seven Sisters and the Suitor, two towering waterfalls that roar in stereo down their rocky steeps. And while it made no sense that I could reach out and touch

TOP SECRET City life in Bergen

Norwegian salmon may be high on your to-eat list, but local preparation overcooks the fish by our standards. A high-end restaurant catering to cruisers is your best bet.

TAKE IT HOME

CLOCKWISE FROM LEFT: APEX PHOTOS/GETTY IMAGES, COURTESY OF SILVERSEA/ RICHARD SIDEY, RICHARD CUMMINGS/GETTY IMAGES, VVVITA/GETTY IMAGES

Traced back to Norse mythology, trolls rule Norwegian folk tales and most city streets: stamped on T-shirts, carved into statues that guard shops, and lined up inside those same shops in row upon row of differing sizes and degrees of, frankly, ugliness. And while a Norwegian troll may not be your prettiest souvenir ever, it will fittingly remind you of this strange and wild place. Don’t leave the fjords without one.

No one said they were pretty: Norwegian trolls

both cataracts, I set down my camera and actually tried to do so. High-drama scenery does that to a person.

I did manage to leave my post on deck, though, and found more to love ashore. In Bergen—Norway’s secondlargest city, teeming with art galleries and seafood restaurants—we cultured up. In Hammerfest, we huddled inside a tepee-like lavvu tent at a Sami village, nibbling homemade reindeer jerky around a campfire while listening to stories of Europe’s northernmost indigenous people. On a bus from Honningsvåg to Nordkapp, we lumbered along winding roads as reindeer scampered away from us up sparse hillsides. And finally, at that northern outpost called Nordkapp, I fought strong gusts to reach the cliff’s edge. The ferocious wind did what no hairstylist can—blew my curly hair stickstraight. The whitecapped water below led to the North Pole, some 1,300 miles away. I felt mythic myself, infused with that strange Norse magic.

As we made our round-trip journey back into port at Copenhagen, I realized the greatest gift of this part of the world and seeing it by boat: Norway’s very features—fjords, waterfalls, mountains— felt as eternal as mythology. I could return next year or 10 years on, and that same magic would await me. What other journeys could I say that about with such certainty? In a world where change seems to pace in nanoseconds, and we pant to keep pace, I felt comforted by that constant. The rocks of Norway became my rock, and I exhaled, deeper and longer than ever before or ever since.

Janice Wald Henderson is an awardwinning cruise journalist based in Southern California.

BOOK IT NOW

Reindeer hitting the road

Silversea often tweaks ships and routes to retain devotees’ interest. Silver Spirit and Silver Wind cruise similar Norwegian journeys in June and July 2018, including 15-day round-trip Copenhagen and round-trip London routes. Rates start at $8,280; silversea.com.

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CALL OF THE WILD Exploring Indonesia’s exotic archipelagos on the True North

BY E M M A SLOLEY

have its own helicopter? If not, you might want to rethink your life choices. I’m certainly reflecting on mine as I embark the True North, a handsome, 164-foot ship reminiscent of the sleek pleasure vessels you see in celebrity magazines, usually with people like Leonardo DiCaprio and Rihanna aboard. This sailing isn’t about tanning and cocktails, though—or at least not exclusively about those things.

The mission of Australian-owned True North Adventure Cruises is to provide intrepid travelers with experiences in some of the world’s most dreamy and inaccessible places.

Thanks to my Australian homeland, the Asia-Pacific region is close to my heart, but I’m here to explore a corner unfamiliar to me—the Raja Ampat (“Four Kings”) archipelago in West Papua, Indonesia. Even the name sounds somewhat mystical. My pulse quickens by the time we approach our first port of call, the Banda Islands, a onetime epicenter of the world’s spice trade, where the ship is escorted to shore by long green war canoes flying various flags. We ride into Banda in tuk-tuks and on scooters, explore the village and its elegantly faded colonial buildings, and then repair to the top of the fort for sunset drinks. There, locals regale us with traditional song and dance, and it feels as if we are being serenaded at the ends of the Earth.

Over the next nine days, we motor, float, and drift—virtually alone on the sea—through scenery that gives CGI a run for its money. I swoon at the undercut limestone cliffs, hidden lagoons, and vibrant birds of the Fakfak Coast, where we leave the ship often to swim, snorkel, and stand beneath the looming Mommon Waterfall, which spills bracing DOES YOUR CRUISE SHIP

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COASTAL LIVING March 2018

TOP SECRET Pack small gifts to present to children in the villages. The True North team recommends items like pencils, pens, basic sporting equipment (footballs, soccer balls), shoes, and small or stuffed toys.

CLOCKWISE FROM TOP: COURTESY OF TRUE NORTH ADVENTURE CRUISES, FRITS MEYST (2)

Playtime in West Papua

TAKE IT HOME

Small-boat excursions to secret coves

On the island of Banda, look for the beautiful woven cane baskets traditionally used to gather nutmeg: Locals tend to lay out market wares when ships come into port.

freshwater from the lush jungle high above into the warm ocean.

Cruising in the sapphire waters of the Raja Ampat is also a chance to get acquainted with its marine population; the archipelago is home to manta rays, walking sharks, Pacific leatherback turtles, dugongs, and orcas. I’m content to let others stalk the big game, though. I prefer to stick close to the rocky shore, savoring the bright flashes of inquisitive fish milling with me in the shallows.

The adventures unfold and surprise with every new day at sea. We soak up the mesmerizing beauty of the sacred Tomolol cave system by swim-drifting through a serene, cathedral-like cavern before being served wine and snacks onboard the ship’s six “adventure boats,” which are lashed together to create a floating cocktail-hour party. Visiting a remote Melanesian village one misty morning, I meet some of the sweetest children this side of the equator, while another pre-dawn excursion has us gliding through the darkness as if on a stealth raid, to stalk the rare red bird of paradise on Gam Island.

And always, after the day’s exhilaration, we decompress aboard the True North, plied with delicious Modern Australian–meets–Pan Asian dishes like crab baked over red-gum coals and presented ceviche-style, or congee served with a blizzard of traditional accompaniments. But the rarest privilege of all is climbing into the sleek black helicopter, which perches on the ship’s deck like an avian lucky charm. I thrill to it each time, as we lift off to swoop, hover, and soar above the incredible land and seascapes of one of the Earth’s most beautiful undiscovered gems.

Emma Sloley is a New York–based travel writer, author, and frequent contributor to Coastal Living.

BOOK IT NOW Islands fit for a king in the Raja Ampat archipelago

Ten-day cruises to the Raja Ampat depart from Darwin, Australia, with sailings in October. Rates start at $17,245; truenorth.com.au.

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Approaching sunlit Sa Colobra. Opposite, from left: Terrace twilight at Belmond La Residencia hotel; pausing for coffee; fresh catch at Ca’s Patró March restaurant

Dreams of Mallorca

Sometimes you daydream about a destination for years. Other times you spot a place in a TV show and book a flight. Follow ANN HOOD’s impulse journey to a magical Mediterranean island

PHOTOGRAPHS BY JULIEN CAPMEIL

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Like something out of a movie: Ca’s Patró March

the sea. Leftover pizza? No, I wanted to be part of that jet set. I wanted to be helped from my boat by a handsome maître d’ offering his hand. I wanted that shimmering white dress Jed wore as she walked across that stone floor. I wanted to eat at Ca’s Patró March.

And so now, this is precisely where I’m sitting; in the very seat where Jed herself sat and ate seafood soup and paella—neither of which are actually on the menu today. But who cares?

“NO,” THE CONCIERGE AT MY HOTEL TOLD ME.

“D

o you still have the seafood soup?” I ask the harried waitress. “And the paella?”

She frowns, bangs a menu down in front of me, and walks off.

The man at the table beside me grins. “You watch The Night Manager?” he asks in a lovely British accent.

“Yes,” I say with a sigh, and turn my head toward the view: rugged cliffs surrounding a cove of azure water where men in Speedos lazily bob. The ocean stretches, gorgeous and blue, all the way to France and beyond.

Two weeks ago I was sitting in my apartment in Providence, Rhode Island, eating leftover pizza and binge-watching The Night Manager, a crime show based on John le Carré’s novel of the same name. In it, hotel night manager Jonathan Pine becomes an international operative who spies on bad-guy entrepreneur Richard Roper. Pine follows Roper and his glamorous girlfriend, Jed Marshall, from Cairo to Zermatt to Mallorca. In one scene—the scene—they arrive by boat at an unbearably romantic restaurant, with twinkling lights and a terrace that hangs precariously over

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“You don’t go by boat. You take a taxi. Or you hike.”

“Hike?” I repeated, because here is a little secret about me: I don’t hike. Tired of being the last one down a treacherous trail (usually on my butt to keep my vertigo in check), on my 40th birthday I swore I’d never hike again. As evidence of this I have packed only flip-flops and beach shoes. But I’d come so far—3,378 miles, to be exact—so I took a deep breath and asked how long a hike it is, and how steep the trail, and would I have to walk on those switchbacks he described?

“Oh ... 35, 45 minutes,” the concierge told me, as if that were nothing at all. “You go up. You go down.

The route is marked.”

Jet-lagged and equal parts thrilled (I’m here!

Like Jed and Richard!) and terrified (I’m hiking!), I located the sign pointing to Cala Deià beach and Ca’s Patró March. I admit, I was not happy on this hike. I kept replaying the scene from The Night Manager in my mind for inspiration and motivation as I went up and I went down, just as promised. Luckily, real hikers—the kind with walking sticks and proper shoes—led the way, along with families and bikers in neon laminate jackets.

All of us out for a hike to dinner.

Finally, the trail came to an end, but then there was gravel, then irregular stone steps, a little bridge, more irregular stone steps, and a climb up and into the restaurant. By then I wanted nothing more than to jump in the water to cool off. But one glance at the tables creaking with platters of octopus and anchovies, the glasses of rosé twinkling in the late-afternoon sunlight, the happy people eating bite-size seafood croquettes and large grilled prawns, and all memories of the hike vanished. I

Mallorca’s Mediterranean blues

The serpentine route to Sa Colobra

Belmond La Residencia

Fresh clams at Ca’s Patró March

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Ca’s Patró March

You anchor off Sa Calobra or Cala Tuent and swim in the clear, cyanine water, feeling very much like the luckiest person you know

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Cala Deià

was here. I had made it from my sofa to arguably the most beautiful restaurant in the world. Soon enough, I was among the happy Night Manager devotees, eating my fried squid and grilled Padrón peppers dusted with sea salt from this very sea, drinking my own glass of rosé. Ah, Jed! ¡Muchas gracias! that all of the best things on Mallorca, like Ca’s Patró March, are secrets. You can’t get to them easily. And once you finally do, you don’t want to leave, which is a good thing because hailing a taxi is next to impossible. It is as if the entire island is conspiring to keep you away from its perfect beaches and seaside towns. Mallorca, the largest of the three principal Balearic Islands (the others being Menorca and Ibiza), sits in the Mediterranean off the eastern coast of Spain. It has only been 65 years since the first charter flight brought tourists here. Now, at the height of summer, more than a thousand flights a day arrive for the endless sunshine—300 days a year—the beaches, and tapas eaten outdoors under a starlit sky.

I have opted to stay at Belmond La Residencia, a former Richard Branson–owned hotel that is discreetly tucked into the foothills of the Serra de Tramuntana in the little village of Deià on the rugged north shore. The hotel adds to my fantasy that I’ve come to Mallorca just like an international spy: Olives hang from branches IT TAKES NO TIME FOR ME TO LEARN

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overhead as I climb the flat stone steps upward for a breakfast of local specialties—ham and cheese and fruit and honey and thick wedges of tortilla (a Spanish type of omelette)—and upward again to the still, blue pool, and upward yet again to my room, which throws spectacular views at me wherever I look: the tiled roofs of Deià below me, the ocean to my right, the church that rings its bells on the half hour like a fairy-tale church.

Just around the corner from the hotel is the trail to Ca’s Patró March, and a little past that is Ca n’Alluny (Catalan for “the faraway home”), the casa of the English poet Robert Graves, which is open to the public. At The Deià Parish Church of San Juan Bautista you can visit Graves’s grave, with the simple word “Poet” on it and the offerings of poems left by admirers.

But what I quickly learn is that the best way to get anywhere other than Ca’s Patró March is by boat, and La Residencia conveniently keeps one in nearby Port de Sóller, the closest port. The captain zips you along the water from beach to beach, each one dramatically ringed by cliffs. If you are like me, you favor long, sandy beaches. Mallorca’s are small, U-shaped, rocky, and gravelly, but clearly appeal to the summertime thousands who descend on them, arriving by one of only two roads. This is why you need a boat. You anchor off Sa Calobra or Cala Tuent and swim in the clear, cyanine water, feeling very much like the luckiest person you know.

Back at Port de Sóller, a town of seaside outdoor restaurants and little shops that sell locally made pottery and espadrilles, there is plenty of time for gelato made from Sóller oranges while one waits (and waits and waits) for a taxi. It is hard to get here, and it is hard to leave. And the truth is, who wants to leave? Certainly not me. When I finally return to La Residencia, there is wine chilling on my terrace, tapas plates of chorizo and papas bravas waiting, and a violet sky and cool breezes making everything appear as cinematic as a scene in a film.

“Have you seen that show? The Night Manager?” my waiter asks me, preparing to leave me to my private feast.

“Yes,” I say. “I have.”

Ann Hood is the author, most recently, of the novel The Book That Matters Most and of the memoir Morningstar: Growing Up with Books.

The narrow charms of Deià

Aperol cocktails at Belmond La Residencia

Memo: Mallorca GET HERE Palma de Mallorca Airport (PMI) is easily reached by plane from Madrid and Barcelona.

Belmond La Residencia is a 45-minute drive from the airport.

(plus one private villa); there are four restaurants, two pools, and one splendid spa; and the pleasures are too great to count. Rates start at $440; belmond.com.

EAT HERE STAY HERE Perched on a high bluff between the Tramuntana mountains and the Mediterranean, and surrounded by citrus and olive trees, Belmond La Residencia’s pair of restored 16th- and 17th-century manor houses form an unforgettable retreat amid the splendors of Mallorca.

The rooms number 73

The Night Manager aficionados (particularly from Great Britain, where the show has enjoyed widespread success bordering on obsession) flock to Ca’s Patró March, so call ahead for a reservation. The restaurant closes for the season at the end of October and reopens in May; 34/97/163-9137.

Rapid transit, Mallorca-style

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ISLA ESCAPE From wild Miami nightclubs to a wilder wisp of an island eight miles off the Yucatán Peninsula: photographer Marco Badalian trades up for a one-bedroom cement-block hideaway on the edge of the Gulf of Mexico

Homeowner Marco Badalian gathers coconuts in the beach brush just steps from his house.

BY MIMI READ PHOTOGRAPHS BY BRIE WILLIAMS STYLING BY LIZ STRONG

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Crowning the 1,100square-foot beach house is a cozy rooftop living room tucked behind louvered Mayan pine doors. Badalian crafted the sconces himself out of clay.

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SOME CREATIVE PEOPLE ARE SO FLEXIBLE IN THEIR TALENTS IT SEEMS THEY CAN DO ANYTHING.

Native palms and oleander shroud the concrete, one-bedroom home. Badalian used thatch only sparingly (seen here on the awnings), leaning instead on the form-driven architecture of the American Southwest and Moorish designs of the Mediterranean.

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Marco Badalian, 49, is one. An accomplished interiors/travel photographer who used to run nightclubs in Miami and later imported exotic furniture, he thought nothing of taking on the architectural and interior design of his own beach house on the sands of Isla Holbox, a lesserknown island off the coast of Mexico’s mainland Yucatán Peninsula.

Made of concrete block and poured concrete, Badalian’s three-story bungalow sits just 165 feet from the edge of the Gulf of Mexico, and it is radiantly rustic—an assemblage of sculptural white boxes designed to celebrate the light, minimize the hottest sun, and maximize the ocean breezes. Columns and beams constructed of bleached parota, a Mexican hardwood, weather in the salt air. Queen palm fronds fringe the open balconies, porches, and gazebos where Badalian practices yoga by day and relaxes by night under a veil of stars.

Though not an architect, Badalian was once a student of architecture, and his far-flung travels have further inspired him. “I’ve always loved Moroccan and Greek architecture,” he says. “I like the simple volumes of Formentera and Ibiza.

For the roofs, I didn’t use the thatch, like so many other structures around here. Mine are made of cement poured over metal wire mesh in between hardwood beams—a look inspired by Santa Fe houses and Balearic fincas.”

Glamorous but unassuming, the house fits in well on the little island. Accessible by ferry after a two-hour drive from Cancún, Isla Holbox (pronounced OLE-bosh) is only 26 miles long and less than a mile wide. Instead of cars, golf carts fitted with all-terrain tires zip along its roads. A low-key paradise that hasn’t been subjected to mass tourism, it has nevertheless been discovered lately by the fashionable set. “People are calling it ‘the next Tulum,’” Badalian says. So

An open corkscrew stairway crafted of bleached parota, a Mexican hardwood, leads from the bedroom balcony to the roof deck, where Badalian practices yoga.

Badalian found this equipales chair, made of hide and palo de rosa wood, in Zacoalco de Torres, and paired it with a metal mesh pendant he made himself. The lighting in the kitchen is repurposed wicker torches; the flooring is naturally pigmented polished cement.

its spirit is in flux. Savvy travelers ferry over to shop in the stylish boutiques, to stay in small, bohemian-chic hotels, and to revel in unspoiled natural beauty, which often includes a swim with giant whale sharks, a species that migrates to the waters surrounding the island to feed on glowin-the-dark phytoplankton.

Badalian was miles ahead of the crowd. He discovered the island in 2000, when his adventurous mother heard talk of its wonders and arrived there, sight unseen, with a packed-up truck and three dogs. She moved into an abandoned fisherman’s cabana, which she renovated and still lives in today.

“It’s hard to believe that just 30 years ago, people here would exchange a piece of land for a refrigerator, a boat engine, or a case of beer,” says Badalian, who bought his land on that first visit and only got around to building his 1,100square-foot house two years ago. These days, he spends about a third of his time in it and otherwise rents it out to visitors.

Inside, a few simple, arched doorways and ceilings adorned with vigas—beams made of natural peeled logs—provide much of the blank canvas for his spare furnishings, all of them emphatically natural yet artful. When it comes to interiors, Badalian loves the serene rusticity of Belgian decorator Axel Vervoordt’s rooms, and the elegant minimalism of fashion icon Tom Ford’s houses. “I just mixed up a cocktail of all the things I admire,” he says.

While most of the textiles came from India and Morocco, Badalian designed and made almost all of the furnishings, including light fixtures and some artwork. “Number one, it’s fun,” he says. “And secondly, there aren’t any furniture stores on the island. I had no choice!”

In his bedroom, Badalian designed the platform bed; a pair of tree stumps he found in an abandoned lot became nightstands. “I thought they had a lot of character,” he says. “I must have put about 10 coats of white paint on them because they’re both kind of rounded now.” A thick cotton curtain belted with a tasseled cord is loosely draped over glass doors leading to a balcony and seating area.

In his kitchen and bath, Badalian used lots of luminous polished white cement for the walls, floors, tub, and built-in sinks. “It was the

Top: A handmade ladder serves as a catch-all for hats, yoga mats, and decorative odds and ends in the entryway. The Dutch door was crafted by a local woodsmith out of Mayan pine. Above: The platform bed is made of whitewashed caoba wood and outfitted with a Moroccan wedding blanket. Glass-paned doors lead out to a balcony.

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cheapest but also the most beautiful thing I could have done,” he says. He was inspired by an old Moroccan craft called tadelakt. “There they do these beautiful, crazy colors out of it— yellows, dark grays, deep reds and blues—which they polish and seal with a special soap so it gets this really deep luster. I love those, but I wanted mine more basic,” he says. Above the sink in the bath, he hung a small mirror made of scavenged driftwood, along with a sconce he fashioned from metal mesh and dried vines, which patterns the white wall with shadows.

Certain spaces completely blur the boundary between indoors and out. An elemental corkscrew ladder leads from the second-floor balcony to the rooftop terrace, where a three-walled gazebo has a built-in concrete banquette topped by a mattress and simple wooden coffee table Badalian designed. A Moroccan leather pouf is within reach as a footstool or for extra seating.

Often, he strings a white cotton macramé hammock between walls for siestas.

Throughout the house, branches Badalian found washed up on the beach and cow skulls he picked up in Monterey, Mexico, lean against the chalky walls or decorate the corners; impala horns from Kenya hang above the entry door.

“They curve beautifully, and they have this really interesting repetitive texture. They’re my prized possession. It’s why I call the place Casa Impala.”

With its all-white purity and intriguing play of textures, Casa Impala is a living, ever-changing gallery where Badalian can continually express and refine his aesthetic. It’s also his ringside seat for a pristine slice of the natural world, a place where his day begins with a plunge in the ocean, followed by cooking, yoga on the balcony, and time spent planning the home-goods store he plans to open on Isla Holbox soon. “Before, I was living in Miami, working crazy hours, running nightclubs, and leading a wild lifestyle,” he says.

“This is the opposite: simplicity, silence, and relaxation. To hide out a bit from society, this is the perfect place.”

Top: The rooftop gazebo was designed with built-in banquette seating and cutout windows open to the breeze. Badalian collected the pillows for the gazebo and the balcony on trips to Marrakesh, Morocco, and Chiapas, Mexico.

Above: Peeled logs, or “vigas,” trim the bedroom balcony and help it blend organically with the lush landscape.

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Mimi Read specializes in stories on architecture and design. She writes for numerous national magazines from her home in New Orleans.

On the roof deck, a lounge chair cushion is covered in African mudcloth. The stool is a vintage Mayan tortilla table.

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The Massachusetts chef making one fine fish burger PAGE 86

BOUNTY What to serve friends and family

GATHER

Pizza Party

PROP STYLING BY MINDI SHAPIRO LEVINE; FOOD STYLING BY MARY CLAIRE BRITTON

Fresh takes on old-school pies, plus the blueprint to a better salad and the right wine for every slice

Anchovy Oil Pestoand-Greens Pizza, recipe pg. 78

R E C IP E S BY PA I GE GRANDJE AN

P H OTO GRAP HS BY J EN N I FER CAU SEY

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BOUNTY | GATHER

ANCHOVY OIL PESTOAND-GREENS PIZZA SERVES 6 ACTIVE 30 min.

TOTAL 1 hour, 5 min.

1 (2-oz.) pkg. oil-packed anchovies, drained and finely chopped 1 cup plus 2 Tbsp. extra-virgin olive oil, divided 2 garlic cloves, smashed 1 cup roasted, salted, shelled pistachios, roughly chopped, divided ¼ cup packed fresh oregano leaves 1½ cups packed fresh basil leaves, divided 1½ cups packed fresh flat-leaf parsley leaves, divided ½ cup chopped pitted Castelvetrano olives 1 tsp. kosher salt, divided 4 oz. feta cheese, crumbled (about 1 cup), divided 2½ Tbsp. fresh lemon juice (from 1 lemon), divided Coarse cornmeal 2 (12-oz.) Sourdough Pizza Dough portions (recipe on page 84), stretched into 11-in. circles 2 cups baby arugula (about 2 oz.)

1. Place a cast-iron pizza pan or pizza stone in oven, and preheat oven to 550°F. (Do not remove pizza pan while oven preheats.)

Heat anchovies and 1 cup of the oil in a small skillet over low; cook, stirring occasionally, until anchovies completely break down and look melted, about 10 minutes. Transfer to a bowl to cool completely, about 30 minutes.

CLASSIC CAST IRON PIZZA PIE SERVES 12 ACTIVE 30 min.

TOTAL 2 hours, 30 min.

1½ 2 ½ 4 2½ 1 1 ½ 12

lb. tomatoes (about 3 medium), cored garlic cloves, chopped tsp. crushed red pepper Tbsp. extra-virgin olive oil, divided tsp. kosher salt, divided tsp. black pepper, divided Tbsp. red wine vinegar tsp. chopped fresh oregano oz. hot Italian sausage, casings removed (about 3 links) Coarse cornmeal 2 (12-oz.) Sourdough Pizza Dough portions (recipe on page 84), stretched into 11-in. circles 16 oz. mozzarella cheese, shredded (about 4 cups), divided 2 oz. thinly sliced pepperoni, divided ½ cup thinly sliced red onion (from 1 small onion), divided Torn basil leaves

1. Preheat oven to 450°F. Score bottom of tomatoes with a small ¼-inch-deep “x”; cut tomatoes in half. Toss together tomatoes garlic, red pepper, 2 tablespoons of the oil, 1 teaspoon of the salt, and ½ teaspoon of the black pepper in a medium bowl. Place tomatoes, cut side down, on a wire rack set in a rimmed baking sheet. Bake in preheated oven until skins loosen, about 12 minutes.

Cool 10 minutes. Gently peel tomatoes;

2. Reserve 2 tablespoons of the anchovy oil.

Place remaining 1 cup anchovy oil in a food processor; add garlic and ½ cup of the pistachios. Process until finely chopped, about 15 seconds. Add oregano and 1 cup each of the basil and parsley; process just until smooth, about 15 seconds. Transfer mixture to a medium bowl; stir in olives, ½ teaspoon of the salt, ½ cup of the feta, and 1½ tablespoons of the lemon juice. Set aside.

3. Sprinkle a pizza peel with cornmeal; top with 1 pizza dough round. Brush dough with 1 tablespoon of the oil, and sprinkle with ¼ teaspoon of the salt. Slide pizza onto preheated pizza pan.

4. Bake in preheated oven until golden brown, 8 to 10 minutes. Transfer crust to a cutting board. Repeat with cornmeal and remaining dough round, oil, and salt.

5. Spread pesto over crusts (about 1 cup each), leaving a 1-inch border. Toss together arugula, reserved 2 tablespoons anchovy oil, and remaining 1 tablespoon lemon juice and ½ cup each basil and parsley. Top pizzas evenly with arugula mixture and remaining ½ cup each feta and pistachios.

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Classic Cast Iron Pizza Pie

discard skins. Decrease oven temperature to 325°F, and return tomatoes to oven.

Bake at 325°F until slightly dehydrated and just beginning to brown, about 1½ hours.

Cool completely, about 1 hour.

2. Process tomatoes, vinegar, oregano, 1 teaspoon of the salt, and remaining ½ teaspoon pepper in a food processor until smooth, about 15 seconds. Set aside.

3. Preheat oven to 550°F. Heat a 12-inch cast iron skillet on stovetop over mediumhigh. Add sausage; cook, stirring occasionally to break into large pieces, until browned, 6 to 8 minutes. Transfer to a plate lined with paper towels. Wipe skillet clean, and return to medium-high. Sprinkle skillet lightly with cornmeal, and carefully place 1 dough round in skillet, pressing ½-inch up sides. Brush with 1 tablespoon of the oil; sprinkle with ¼ teaspoon salt. Cook dough over mediumhigh until it just begins to bubble, about 1 to 2 minutes. Spread ¼ cup tomato sauce over crust. Top with half each of mozzarella, sausage, pepperoni, and onion.

4. Bake in preheated oven until golden brown and starting to char, 10 to 12 minutes.

Let pizza stand 5 minutes; transfer to a cutting board. Repeat with cornmeal and remaining dough round, oil, and salt; spread with ¼ cup tomato sauce. Top with remaining mozzarella, sausage, pepperoni, and onion. Garnish with basil, if desired; serve with remaining tomato sauce for dipping.

Clam-and’Nduja Pizza

White Pizza with Oyster Mushrooms and Gorgonzola

WHITE PIZZA WITH OYSTER MUSHROOMS AND GORGONZOLA SERVES 6 ACTIVE 25 min.

TOTAL 35 min.

4 Tbsp. extra-virgin olive oil, divided 8 oz. oyster mushrooms (about 6 cups), trimmed 1 large leek, chopped (about 1½ cups) 2 tsp. chopped fresh thyme, plus leaves for garnish ½ tsp. black pepper 1¾ tsp. kosher salt, divided Coarse cornmeal 2 (12-oz.) Sourdough Pizza Dough portions (recipe on page 84), stretched into 11-in. circles 8 oz. mozzarella cheese, shredded (about 2 cups), divided 5 oz. fontina cheese, shredded (about 2 cups), divided 1½ oz. Parmigiano-Reggiano, shredded (about ⅔ cup), divided 2 oz. Gorgonzola cheese, crumbled (about ½ cup), divided

1. Place a cast-iron pizza pan or pizza stone in oven, and preheat oven to 550°F. (Do not remove pizza pan while oven preheats.) Heat 2 tablespoons of the oil in a large skillet over medium-high. Add mushrooms, leek, thyme, pepper, and 1¼ teaspoons of the salt; cook, stirring occasionally, until vegetables are tender, about 6 minutes. Remove from heat.

2. Sprinkle a pizza peel with cornmeal; top with 1 pizza dough round. Brush dough with 1 tablespoon of the oil, and sprinkle with ¼ teaspoon of the salt. Top dough with half each of mozzarella, fontina, ParmigianoReggiano, Gorgonzola, and mushroom mixture. Slide pizza onto preheated pizza pan.

Bake until golden brown and charred in spots, 8 to 10 minutes. Let stand 5 minutes; transfer to a cutting board. Garnish with thyme leaves, if desired. Wipe pizza pan clean, and repeat with cornmeal and remaining dough round, oil, salt, and toppings.

CLAM-AND-’NDUJA PIZZA SERVES 6 ACTIVE 25 min.

TOTAL 40 min.

½ cup fire-roasted crushed tomatoes (such as San Marzano) 1 garlic clove, smashed ½ tsp. granulated sugar ¼ tsp. black pepper 1 tsp. kosher salt, divided Coarse cornmeal 2 (12-oz.) Sourdough Pizza Dough portions (recipe on page 84), stretched into 11-in. circles 2 Tbsp. extra-virgin olive oil, divided 2 oz. ’nduja, torn into small pieces, divided ½ cup Cloumage cheese (by Shy Brothers Farm), divided

1 dozen very small littleneck clams, scrubbed, divided 2 Tbsp. chopped fresh chives, divided

1. Place a cast-iron pizza pan or pizza stone in oven, and preheat oven to 550°F. (Do not remove pizza pan while oven preheats.)

Combine tomatoes, garlic, sugar, pepper, and ½ teaspoon of the salt in a small saucepan; bring to a simmer over medium-low.

Simmer, stirring often, until slightly thickened, about 5 minutes. Discard garlic clove.

2. Sprinkle a pizza peel with cornmeal; top with 1 pizza dough round. Brush dough with 1 tablespoon of the oil, and sprinkle with ¼ teaspoon of the salt. Spread half of the tomato sauce over dough, leaving a 1-inch boarder. Top with 1 ounce of the ’nduja, about 2½ tablespoons of the Cloumage, and 6 clams (hinge side down).

Slide pizza onto preheated pizza pan.

3. Bake at 550°F until golden brown and clams open, 8 to 10 minutes. Discard any unopened clams. Sprinkle with 1 tablespoon of the chives, and let stand 5 minutes.

Transfer to a cutting board. Repeat with cornmeal and remaining dough round, oil, salt, and toppings.

Test Kitchen Tips: Use the smallest clams you can find, so they’ll open in the time it takes for the pizza to bake. To avoid ripping your toppings, it’s always a good idea to let pizza stand for a few minutes before slicing.

But it’s extra important here, because it allows the clam juice to soak into the sauce.

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THAI SWEET CHILI VINAIGRETTE

HOW TO MAKE A SUPERIOR SALAD

SERVES 6 ACTIVE 10 min.

TOTAL 30 min.

Our foolproof formula: Pick a favorite from each category, and then toss with one of the dressings at left.

1 Greens: arugula, watercress, frisée, Little Gem lettuce 2 Herbs: Italian parsley, basil, mint 3 Nuts: hazelnuts, walnuts, almonds, pistachios 4 Veggies: shaved carrots, radishes, fennel, beets, celery 5 Crunch: toasted farro, bacon, pancetta, crushed bagel chips

⅓ cup extra-virgin olive oil 4 red Thai (bird’s eye) chiles, thinly sliced 1 garlic clove, grated (about 1 tsp.)

4 Tbsp. fresh lime juice (from 2 limes) 1 Tbsp. soy sauce 1 Tbsp. light brown sugar 2 tsp. fish sauce ½ tsp. grated fresh ginger ½ tsp. kosher salt

1. Heat oil, chiles, and garlic in a small saucepan over low until warmed, about 5 minutes. Remove from heat.

Let stand at room temperature until desired degree of spiciness, from 20 minutes to 2 hours. (Taste oil for spiciness after 20 minutes.) Pour oil through a fine wire-mesh strainer into a small bowl; discard solids.

2. Add lime juice, soy sauce, brown sugar, fish sauce, ginger, and salt to strained oil; whisk to combine.

ROASTED JALAPEÑO BUTTERMILK DRESSING SERVES 8 ACTIVE 10 min.

TOTAL 50 min.

1 medium-size jalapeño chile, stemmed, seeded, and halved lengthwise 1 small (about 2 oz.) tomatillo, husk removed 3 garlic cloves 1 Tbsp. olive oil 1¼ tsp. kosher salt, divided ½ tsp. black pepper, divided ½ cup packed cilantro leaves ¾ cup mayonnaise ¼ cup whole buttermilk 1½ Tbsp. lime juice (from 1 lime) 1 tsp. ground cumin

1. Preheat oven to 450°F. Toss together jalapeño, tomatillo, garlic, oil, ½ teaspoon of the salt, and ¼ teaspoon of the pepper on a rimmed baking sheet.

Bake in preheated oven until tender, about 12 minutes. Cool completely, about 30 minutes.

2. Process jalapeño, tomatillo, garlic, and cilantro in a food processor until finely chopped, about 10 seconds. Add mayonnaise, buttermilk, lime juice, cumin, and remaining ¾ teaspoon salt and ¼ teaspoon black pepper; process until smooth, about 10 seconds.

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Thai Sweet Chili Vinaigrette

Roasted Jalapeño Buttermilk Dressing

WINES, FROM LEFT: COURTESY OF SOCIÉTÉ DES ALCOOLS DU QUÉBEC, COURTESY OF CLETO CHIARLI, COURTESY OF STEVE FISCH, COURTESY OF LEONARDO LOCASCIO SELECTIONS/A MEMBER OF THE WINEBOW GROUP, COURTESY OF ROANNE LEE, COURTESY OF SOCIÉTÉ DES ALCOOLS DU QUÉBEC; ILLUSTRATION BY EMILY JOHNSON

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Slice of Heaven Let beer take a back seat: These six smart wine pairings will make for a divine pizzeria night at home

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PESTO Grape: Vermentino

PEPPERONI Grape: Lambrusco

MARGHERITA Grape: Frappato

MEATY Grape: Syrah

Taking on the herb and evergreen characteristics of its homeland, Sardinian Vermentino plays perfectly with pesto, or white pizzas topped with peppery greens.

Argiola Costamolino Vermentino di Sardegna DOC ($14)

Lambrusco’s palate-scrubbing bubbles help carve through pepperoni’s richness and strong flavors, such as cayenne and anise.

Cleto Chiarli e Figli “Premium” Vecchia Modena Lambrusco di Sorbara ($16)

MUSHROOMS Grape: Cabernet Franc

A model of austerity, margherita’s striking simplicity allows red sauce to really shine. Look for something that will balance the innate acidity of the tomatoes, such as Sicily’s lithe and fruity frappato.

Tamí Frappato ($18)

Forget about the crust. When you opt for sausage, ’nduja, and/or a spread of salumi, it’s all about the toppings. What to pair with all that protein? The black pepper and brambly dark fruit inherent in syrah.

Vallin Syrah ($18)

HAWAIIAN Grape: Ribolla Gialla

BY C H R I S H U G H ES

The town of Saumur in France’s Loire Valley is known for two things: earthy ’shrooms and silky, smoky Cab Franc— natural partners in any context.

Thierry Germain Saumur-Champigny “Les Roches” ($22)

This polarizing pineapple-and-ham pie nonetheless has a steadfast following—and a wine soulmate.

Ribolla gialla’s tropical flavors complement the salty-sweet combo.

Matthiasson Ribolla Gialla ($45)

March 2018 COASTAL LIVING

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BOUNTY | CRAVINGS With the ability to reach temperatures of more than 900 degrees, the Uuni 3 Wood-Fired Pizza Oven can transform any dough into charblistered Neapolitan bliss. $299; uuni.net

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March 2018 COASTAL LIVING

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BOUNTY | CRAVINGS

SOURDOUGH PIZZA DOUGH MAKES 2 (10-in.) rounds ACTIVE 20 min.

TOTAL 6 hours, 45 min.

3 oz. mature sourdough starter (available from Amazon) 1 cup warm water (100°F to 110°F) 1 tsp. honey 2 Tbsp. light rye flour 1 tsp. wheat germ 2¼ to 3¼ cups (about 9⅝ oz. to 13⅞ oz.) bread flour, divided 1½ tsp. kosher salt

1. Combine starter, warm water, honey, rye flour, wheat germ, and 1 cup of the bread flour in the bowl of an electric stand mixer; stir with a wooden spoon until smooth.

Cover; let stand at room temperature until surface is bubbly, about 4 hours.

READY TO ROLL Chef Michael Scelfo (Waypoint in Cambridge, Massachusetts) shares his tips:

mixer running on low speed, gradually add 1¼ cups bread flour to starter mixture, and beat until combined after each addition.

Add salt. Increase speed to medium-low, and beat until dough pulls away from sides of bowl, about 6 minutes, adding up to 1 cup additional flour as needed. Transfer dough to a lightly greased bowl. Turn dough to grease top. Cover with plastic wrap; let stand at room temperature until increased in volume, 1½ hours.

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FLOUR LIBERALLY

DON’T CHILL

TRUST THE PROS

Wet dough is your worst enemy.

I keep my dough buried in a bowl of flour until I’m ready to work with it.

Let your dough come up to room temperature and remove any air bubbles by pressing down lightly with your fingertips.

When I’m feeling lazy, my move is to buy dough from one of my favorite pizza shops.

If you’re nice, they’ll be happy to sell you some.

3. Transfer dough to a lightly floured surface. Shape dough into 2 equal balls (about 12 ounces each). Cover with a clean kitchen towel, and let rise until puffy, about 45 minutes.

Use immediately, or wrap in plastic wrap and store in refrigerator up to 24 hours.

Let chilled dough come to room temperature before using, 45 minutes to 1 hour.

Crust-worthy Crushes A few fun ways to put an exclamation point on your pizza obsession

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THE MASTER CLASS

THE SUPERIOR SLICER

THE SWEET SURPRISE

In Bianco: Pizza, Pasta, and Other Food I Like (Ecco, 2017), acclaimed pizzaiolo Chris Bianco divulges his methods for making the sweetest sauce, a perfect crust, and the “grandma pies” he grew up eating in New York. $35; harpercollins.com

Prevent sloppy slices with the OXO Clean Cut Pizza Wheel, which effortlessly segments both thincrust and deep-dish pizzas. $13; oxo.com

Jacobsen Salt Co.’s apiary offshoot infuses cherrywoodsmoked honey with lapsang souchong tea in its Bee Local Smoked Honey Sauce. Drizzle it over pizza for an extrapungent oomph. $12; jacobsensalt .com

COASTAL LIVING March 2018

RECIPE BY PAIGE GRANDJEAN; COOKBOOK: COURTESY OF ECCO; ALL OTHER PRODUCTS: COURTESY OF MANUFACTURERS

2. Fit electric mixer with dough hook. With

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GOOD STUFF GUIDE

march 2018

HOME

TRAVEL

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COASTAL LIVING COLLECTION

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ALASKA

505

MARYLAND

1

Stanley Furniture

3

Explore Fairbanks

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BUILDING

503

DELAWARE

Maryland Office of Tourism Development

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Belgard Hardscapes

4

Visit Delaware

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NORTH CAROLINA

504

FLORIDA

9

The Outer Banks of North Carolina

5

Emerald Coast Convention & Visitors Bureau

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TEXAS

10

Texas Tourism

6

New Smyrna Beach

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VISIT FLORIDA

Order free advertiser information here or at coastalliving.com/marketplace/goodstuffguide

BOUNTY | FOODWAYS

MATT GAUDET’S SUPERFINE FISH BURGER

Good Vibrations Matt Gaudet dishes out comfort food and classic tunes in his Manchester-by-the-Sea neighborhood

BY CH RIS H UGH ES WHEN CHEF MATT GAUDET opened West

his home in tiny Manchester-by-the-Sea, Bridge in 2012, the foodie aristocracy (Food featuring stacks of vinyl records, an area & Wine, Bon Appetit) descended on Kendall to play vintage Atari video games, and a selection of comfort foods like Square to anoint the Cambridge, Massachusetts, restaurant as ribs and pizza.

MEET MATT Age: 46 one of the best in the country.

The menu, Gaudet says, was Experience: But before long, Gaudet says designed with his fine-dining Eleven Madison contemporaries in mind—the he began to secretly resent the Park, Aquavit, and kinds of food they craved after four-star, French-by-way-ofJean-Georges (New York) a week of plating foie gras and New-England bulwark that had Food guilty engulfed his life: the 90-hour caviar. Responsible, local sourcpleasures: Malted workweeks, the relentless “cereing would remain a priority, milkshakes and Kit Kat bars but it would come to the table bral challenge” of staying on the Neighborhood in stripped-down dishes such cutting edge, and, most of all, perks: “People as the pan-seared tuna-andthe impact it had on his family. bring us records all the time. Within a salmon fish burger beloved by So after a lauded three-and-ayear, our collection half-year tenure in Cambridge, his wife, Miranda, at home. has grown from 25 Gaudet shocked the dining elite Even with Superfine’s second to well over 100.” by shuttering West Bridge and location (in Marblehead) on the embarking on an eight-month sabbatical horizon, Gaudet says he’s found the qualityto plan his next move. The result was even of-life balance lacking in his former life. more surprising: Superfine, a laid-back “The food, the atmosphere—it’s lightneighborhood joint down the street from hearted and fun. And that makes me happy.”

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COASTAL LIVING March 2018

2 cups canola oil, plus more for grill 1 shallot, thinly sliced into rings on a mandoline ½ cup (about 2⅝ oz.) rice flour 1½ tsp. kosher salt, divided 1 lb. skinless tuna fillet, cubed ½ lb. skinless salmon fillet, cubed 1 cup shelled and cooked edamame 1 carrot, finely diced (about ¾ cup) 1 tsp. lemon zest plus 1 Tbsp. fresh juice (from 1 lemon) 2 Tbsp. olive oil ¼ tsp. hot sauce (such as Crystal or Tabasco) ½ tsp. black pepper 1 cup mayonnaise (such as Duke’s) 1 Tbsp. bottled yuzu juice 4 potato rolls (such as Martin’s), toasted Iceberg lettuce, shredded 1 beefsteak tomato (about 7 oz.), sliced

1. Heat 2 cups canola oil in a stockpot over medium-high to 350°F.

2. Toss shallot rings with rice flour; shake off excess flour. Carefully drop dusted shallots into hot oil, and stir.

Cook until evenly browned, 3 to 5 minutes. Remove with a fine-mesh strainer, and drain on paper towels.

Season with ½ teaspoon of the salt.

3. Pulse fish fillets, edamame, carrot, lemon zest and juice, olive oil, and hot sauce in a food processor until combined, 7 to 8 times. Season with pepper and remaining 1 teaspoon salt; pulse again until everything comes together, about 5 times. (The mixture should have an uneven texture but come together into a ball.)

4. Stir together mayonnaise and yuzu juice, and set aside.

5. Rub a grill grate or a grill pan with canola oil, and heat to mediumhigh (400°F to 450°F). Shape fish mixture into 4 (6-ounce) patties; cook until a thermometer inserted in center of patties registers 140°F, 3 to 4 minutes per side.

6. Spread both halves of rolls with yuzu mayo. Layer lettuce, tomato slices, crispy shallots, and fish burgers between roll halves. Serve immediately.

BRIAN SAMUELS; OPPOSITE: JENNIFER CAUSEY/PROP STYLING BY MINDI SHAPIRO LEVINE/FOOD STYLING BY MARY CLAIRE BRITTON

SERVES 4 ACTIVE 30 min.

TOTAL 45 min.

March 2018 COASTAL LIVING

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SOURCES

THINK PINK

Feather your nest with three more flamingo products we love, inspired by this month’s “View with a Room” (page 28)

Deny Designs Holli Zollinger Flamingo Credenza in Pink, $999; bedbathandbeyond.com

Rosanna Patio Party Tray Flamingo, $22; rosannainc.com

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COASTAL LIVING March 2018

COASTAL LIVING (ISSN 10971165) is published 10 times a year (February, March, April, May, June, July/Aug, September, October, November, December) by Time Inc. Lifestyle Group, 4100 Old Montgomery Highway, Birmingham, AL 35209. Volume 22, Issue 2. PRINTED IN THE USA. Periodicals postage paid at Birmingham, AL, and additional mailing offices. Postmaster: Send all UAA to CFS. (See DMM 507.1.5.2.)

Non-Postal and Military Facilities: Send address corrections to Coastal Living Magazine, PO BOX 62120, Tampa, FL 33662-2120. Canada Post Publications Mail Agreement No. 40110178. Return undeliverable Canada address to: Postal Stn A, PO Box 4015, Toronto, ON M5W2T2. GST#81996300RT0001. Title “Coastal Living” is a trademark of Time Inc. Lifestyle Group. © 2018 Time Inc. Lifestyle Group. COASTAL LIVING cannot be held responsible for any unsolicited material. U.S. subscriptions: $20 for one year. Please allow 6–8 weeks for shipment on new subscriptions.

Allow 6–8 weeks for changes of address. Your bank may provide updates to the card information we have on file. You may opt out of this service at any time. IF YOU NEED HELP CONCERNING YOUR SUBSCRIPTION, CALL OUR TOLL-FREE NUMBER, 888/252-3529 (except Alaska or Hawaii), or write “COASTAL LIVING” SUBSCRIBER ASSISTANCE, PO BOX 62120, Tampa, FL 33662-2120. Customer Service Online 24/7: coastalliving.com/ customerservice.

COURTESY OF MANUFACTURERS (3)

Lulu and Georgia Flamingo Print, from $20; luluandgeorgia.com

ISLA ESCAPE page 68: Architectural and interior design, Marco Badalian; kuaphotography.com.

Landscape architect Marie Claire Baud de Trey. Roof living area, pages 68–69: Rug, light fixtures, pouf, and planters, Talisman Traders. Doors, Carpinteria Diego.

Kitchen, page 72: Stool and door, Carpinteria Diego. Planter, Marco Badalian. Entryway, page 73: Planter, Talisman Traders. Door, Carpinteria Diego. Bedroom, page 73: Wall hanging, Talisman Traders. Bed, window shutters, and doors, Carpinteria Diego.

Nightstands, Marco Badalian.

Gazebo, page 74: Banquette cushions, Talisman Traders.

Coffee table, Marco Badalian and Carpinteria Diego. Balcony, page 74: Pillows, table, stool, hide, and light fixture, Talisman Traders.

Roof deck, page 75: Lounge chair and cushion, end table, and throw pillow, Talisman Traders.

When I Went To

MEXICO

…

Evoke the Spirit Ceramic Skull, from $725 (handmade, each piece will vary); evokethespirit.com

This native culture has produced traditional works of art since at least the 16th century.

For the intricate yarn paintings, artisans used colored strands of wool or silk yarn to tell the stories of shamanic visions on simple pieces of wood coated in resin and beeswax. Today, the growing popularity of Huichol artists’ work has helped the folk art evolve to incorporate new shapes and colors, as in the skull shown here.

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COASTAL LIVING March 2018

… I Brought Home

A YARN PAINTING had been on my bucket list forever. After a difficult year, I was feeling a bit broken, so I persuaded my girlfriends to join me at a surf camp in Sayulita, a charming and colorful village on Mexico’s Pacific Coast. None of us had ever been on a board before, but out on the water we learned the most important lesson of surf camp: You have to find your center and stay balanced in order to catch the wave.

It was a spiritual experience. At Evoke the Spirit, a boutique in town that celebrates traditional handicrafts with modern designs, I watched as a local craftsman practiced yarn painting on a ceramic skull. I fell in love with the colors, and he told me that the cross on the forehead symbolizes staying centered. I hand-carried it home, and it now hangs in my entry hall, a reminder of that powerful, healing trip and a talisman watching over my family that greets me every morning. —designer Catherine M. Austin, View with a Room (page 28) LEARNING TO SURF

COURTESY OF CATHERINE M. AUSTIN INTERIOR DESIGN

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