Food & Drink - Summer 2017 by Lawrence Ambrocio

SUMMER 2017

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The CClass Cabriolet is generous in style, comfort and agility – nothing less than you’d expect from MercedesBenz. What might surprise you is the generous 360 litres of trunk space (285 with the top down). So you get exceptional comfort with low noise and vibration characteristics, an intelligent climate control system that knows when the fullyautomated soft top is open, and responsive driving dynamics. You also get to bring along everything you need to enjoy yourself when you reach your destination. mercedesbenz.ca/ccabriolet

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A view with room.

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A view with room.

START 1

MELT BUTTER PC® BLACK LABEL NORMANDY STYLE UNSALTED CULTURED BUTTER ¼ CUP (50 mL)

There’s more than one way to sundae.

Melt butter in skillet over medium heat. Stir in 2 tbsp (25 mL) of packed brown sugar. 2

choose your fruit PINEAPPLE

PEACHES

PEELED, CORED, CUT INTO WEDGES

(FIRM, RIPE) CORED, SLICED

APPLES

(BRAEBURN, MUTSU, GOLDEN DELICIOUS) CORED, SLICED

Add peaches to skillet, spreading in single layer; cook, turning once, until golden brown and sauce is thick and syrupy.

Add pineapple to skillet, spreading in single layer; cook, turning once, until golden brown and sauce is thick and syrupy.

Add apples to skillet, spreading in single layer; cook, turning once, until golden brown and sauce is thick and syrupy.

heat sauce PC BLACK LABEL TOASTED SESAME CARAMEL DESSERT SAUCE ¼ CUP (50 mL) ®

Heat dessert sauce according to package directions. 4

choose your ice cream PC® BLACK LABEL MADAGASCAR BOURBON VANILLA ICE CREAM

PC® BLACK LABEL SALTED CARAMEL ICE CREAM

PC® BLACK LABEL PISTACHIO ICE CREAM

ASSEMBLE Spoon ice cream into serving bowls. Top with fruit mixture and dessert sauce. 6

choose YOUR topping PC® COCONUT CHIPS

Rich, nutty and velvety smooth, PC® Black Label Sesame Caramel Dessert Sauce is heavenly no matter which sundae you drizzle it over. Find more ways to play at pc.ca/blacklabel All trademarks & logos are trademarks of Loblaws Inc. ©2017 Loblaws Inc. All rights reserved.

#PlayWithYourFood

PC® CARAMEL POPCORN

SHAVED PC® MILK CHOCOLATE

START 1

MELT BUTTER PC® BLACK LABEL NORMANDY STYLE UNSALTED CULTURED BUTTER ¼ CUP (50 mL)

There’s more than one way to sundae.

Melt butter in skillet over medium heat. Stir in 2 tbsp (25 mL) of packed brown sugar. 2

choose your fruit PINEAPPLE

PEACHES

PEELED, CORED, CUT INTO WEDGES

(FIRM, RIPE) CORED, SLICED

APPLES

(BRAEBURN, MUTSU, GOLDEN DELICIOUS) CORED, SLICED

Add peaches to skillet, spreading in single layer; cook, turning once, until golden brown and sauce is thick and syrupy.

Add pineapple to skillet, spreading in single layer; cook, turning once, until golden brown and sauce is thick and syrupy.

Add apples to skillet, spreading in single layer; cook, turning once, until golden brown and sauce is thick and syrupy.

heat sauce PC BLACK LABEL TOASTED SESAME CARAMEL DESSERT SAUCE ¼ CUP (50 mL) ®

Heat dessert sauce according to package directions. 4

choose your ice cream PC® BLACK LABEL MADAGASCAR BOURBON VANILLA ICE CREAM

PC® BLACK LABEL SALTED CARAMEL ICE CREAM

PC® BLACK LABEL PISTACHIO ICE CREAM

ASSEMBLE Spoon ice cream into serving bowls. Top with fruit mixture and dessert sauce. 6

choose YOUR topping PC® COCONUT CHIPS

#PlayWithYourFood

PC® CARAMEL POPCORN

SHAVED PC® MILK CHOCOLATE

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TABLE OF CONTENTS

F E ATU R E S 72

NEIGHBOURHOOD FEAST By Eric Vellend Designed to be portable and to appeal to many tastes, these diverse dishes and drinks are just the thing for a Canada Day block party or backyard potluck.

TRUE COLOURS By Christopher St. Onge Show your patriotism with delicious dishes that are all red and white—with not a dye or artificial ingredient in sight!

OH CANADA! By Amy Rosen Let’s experience for ourselves why Canada was named 2017’s No. 1 travel destination in the world, visiting our fair land’s must-stop hot spots—renowned restaurants, hotels, shops and more.

CLEAR CHOICES By James Chatto & Victoria Walsh With so many new vodkas on LCBO shelves, it’s an ideal time to throw a vodka-tasting party, experiencing nuanced differences alongside perfectly suited nibbles.

100

HOT OFF THE GRILL By Christopher St. Onge The latest BBQ trends, techniques and recipes breathe new life into your barbecue repertoire.

ON THE COVER Strawberry & Coconut Semifreddo, recipe on page 166. Photography by Rob Fiocca

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TA B L E O F C O N T E N T S

D E PA RTM E NTS DRINK

FOOD

SPIRITS LONG WEEKEND DRINKS By Michelle P. E.Hunt & Laura Panter Kick back and enjoy late summer afternoons with cocktails that are light on alcohol but long on flavour.

WINE MATCHING THE CATCH By James Chatto & Monda Rosenberg Gone fishing? These mouth-watering recipes will make the most of your local catch—plus we’ve paired them with perfectly matched Ontario wines.

FLAVOURS THE SYRIAN TABLE By Lucy Waverman Our newest neighbours have much to share in the kitchen— our Food Editor was keen to learn, and the resulting dishes enrich the cultural mosaic that we are.

117

BEER SMALL-TOWN BREWS By Stephen Beaumont For a charming day trip, consider visiting Ontario’s small independent breweries—not just for the tastings and tours, but for other local highlights, too!

STAPLES CANADIAN CLASSICS By Elizabeth Baird A roundup of 10 iconically Canadian foods and the captivating stories behind them—with a handful of irresistible recipes.

133

SEASONAL COOL IT! By Charlene Rooke If you’re packing up a cooler of drinks for a weekend away, check out our four distinctive lists; each will satisfy a wide range of tastes and includes cocktails, wine, beer and cider.

SEASONAL PERFECT PAIRINGS By Joanne Yolles Fresh fruit pie served with homemade ice cream—which is much easier to make than you’d think—is the stuff of summery dreams!

BASICS GUIDE TO FRIED CHICKEN By Jennifer MacKenzie With fried chicken popping up on menus everywhere, we offer up pro tips for making your own exemplary versions at home—plus a classic recipe that’ll stand out at any picnic.

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I N E V E RY I S S U E

EDITOR’S NOTES

A SPLASH OF BEER Classic Canadian beers add crisp clean flavours to liven up barbecued chicken nachos.

WHAT’S NEW A selection of proudly Canadian new products, available at the LCBO and Vintages.

MUST-HAVES Things we love for entertaining and around the house.

TRENDSPOTTING From svelte hand-helds to hulking power machines, the blender is the “it” appliance of the moment.

174

RECIPE INDEX

174

SOURCE RESOURCE

176

FIVE QUESTIONS WITH… Wayne Morris, chef and co-owner of Boralia in Toronto, whose menu celebrates the historical origins of Canadian cuisine.

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Publication Director & SVP.........Nancy Cardinal Sales, Marketing & Insights VP Marketing ..................................Kerri Dawson Editor .................................................Jody Dunn Art Directors ...................................Karen Lim, Cathy Cicchini Senior Editor ..................................James Chatto Food Editor.......................................Lucy Waverman Contributing Editors ....................Charlene Rooke, Kat Tancock Publication Coordinator ...........Leslie Virdo Graphic Designers ........................Wincy Law, Dominique Patafo, Pat Turbach Production Manager ...................Mark Greene Production Coordinator ............Judy Haverkort Publication Assistant .................Piper MacFadyen Production Assistant ..................Everton Smith Food Stylists ...................................Eshun Mott, Christopher St. Onge Prop Stylists ....................................Catherine MacFadyen, Andrea McCrindle, Lara McGraw, Shelly Shnier

COMING NEXT ISSUE CROWNED HEAD Why cabbage is king

Contributors .................................. Julia Aitken, Elizabeth Baird, Stephen Beaumont, Cynthia David, Michelle P.E. Hunt, Anna Kohn, Ann Lough, Jennifer MacKenzie, Brenda Morrison, Laura Panter, Amy Rosen, Monda Rosenberg, Christopher St. Onge, Heather Trim, Eric Vellend, Victoria Walsh, Joanne Yolles Publisher ..........................................Wayne Leek

A HARVEST FEAST

The grape-pickers’ reward—wines included!

THE SOUS CHEF COOKS Recipes to feed your own brigade

NO MEAT TONIGHT!

Our delicious all-vegetable menu

For general inquiries about Food & Drink magazine or information about LCBO products and policy please contact helloLCBO online at hellolcbo.com, or call toll-free 1•800•668•5226 or 416•365•5900. TTY Only: 416•864•6898 or 1•800•361•3291. For advertising in Food & Drink magazine, please contact Keystone Media, 416•224•1500 or e-mail foodanddrink@keystonemedia.ca. All advertiser applications are subject to the terms and conditions of the LCBO’s advertising agreement. Food & Drink is published six times a year by the Liquor Control Board of Ontario. Volume 24, Number 6. Food & Drink is printed on paper that contains 10 percent post-consumer fibre. Food & Drink is recyclable in communities participating in magazine recycling programs. Publication Mail Agreement No. 40064521 Return undeliverable Canadian addresses to: Food & Drink, 55 Lake Shore Boulevard East, Toronto, ON, M5E 1A4

WAT C H F O R T H E A U T U M N I S S U E O F

AVA I L A B L E S E P T E M B E R 6

ISSN 1195-5988

Not all of the wines, spirits and beers mentioned in Food & Drink will be available at all LCBO stores.

PRICES ARE SUBJECT TO CHANGE WITHOUT NOTICE. Cette publication est également disponible en français.

10 F OO D & DR I N K SUMMER 2017

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THE KEY TO CRAFTING AWARD WINNING WINES?

THE SECRET IS IN THE CELLAR

BLACK CELLAR MERLOT 750ML SAVE $1.00 NOW ONLY $9.95 / BLACKCELLARWINE Please enjoy responsibly.

Offer valid July 17 – August 13, 2017 LCBO #387167

While Canada’s 150th birthday celebrations are just around the corner, we think a milestone birthday like this should be celebrated all summer long. So whether you’re looking for inspiration for what to bring to a backyard BBQ, planning a block party for the whole neighbourhood or even pondering a day trip or vacation, this issue of Food & Drink is full of great ideas—many of them with a˜Canadian˜twist. °°°You’ll be seeing plenty of red and white this summer, including in “True Colours” on page 80, where we have developed five delicious dishes in the colours of our flag—without an artifcial ingredient or drop of food colouring in sight! Those same colours inspire the décor for our Canada Day Block Party on page 72. Featuring an array of favourful dishes that are sure to please the palates of adults and kids alike, the menu is easy to divide up amongst neighbours, or can be scaled down to smaller gatherings with friends and family. °°°Speaking of friends and family, we know you’ll be making plans with them, especially for the three precious long weekends our Canadian summers provide. Afternoons and early evenings spent enjoying the sunshine (we hope!) are made for long drinks—lower-

alcohol cocktails that are light, fresh and delicious. “Long Weekend, Long Drinks” on page 51 suggests three recipes to try that highlight classic products, along with a couple of new ones on LCBO shelves. If you’re heading out for a night or weekend away, packing up the cooler may be in order. Starting on page 133, “Cool˜It” suggests which products—in four favour categories— are ideal to tote along. °°°And fnally, whether you prefer to stay closer to home or venture farther afeld in this great country of ours, we’ve got some suggestions on both those fronts too. In “Small-Town Brews” on page 117, Stephen Beaumont highlights several independent Ontario breweries that are worth a day trip to visit. To further entice you, he has also included other local attractions that will make the trip even more worthwhile. With Canada being named the top travel destination for 2017 (and the aforementioned sesquicentennial celebrations), there may be no better time to make plans to see it yourself. Amy Rosen o˙ers up “Oh˜Canada!” on page 86, an eclectic mix of Must Stops, Hidden Gems and Bucket List items to add to your travel itineraries. °°°Happy birthday Canada—and here’s to a great summer!

PORTR AIT BY JAMES TSE

EDITOR’S NOTES

ˆˇ˘ F OO D & DR I N K SUMMER ˇ ˆ

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AN LCBO SUMMER ESSENTIAL

SMIRNOFF: THE KING OF COCKTAILS Versatile, refreshing, classic: The world’s most popular vodka is at the heart of every frosty cocktail, from Caesars to Martinis. Just add club soda, juice or any other inspired mixer of the moment. It’s that simple. Consider it the clear favourite. CELEBRATING AN ORIGINAL

Smirnoff has long been the vodka of choice for czars and celebrities – not to mention modern-day James Bond. Little wonder. A highly prized Russian recipe that dates back to 1864, it delivers a distinctive pure, clean and ultra-smooth taste, thanks to its triple-distilled, 10-times fltered process and corn base. That clean,

smooth character means it’s an ideal and versatile choice for today’s cocktail lovers. A true original, Smirnoff is also available in more than a dozen favours, from cherry and raspberry to lime and watermelon, making it the go-to brand for everyone wanting to create their very own signature summer sipper.

Instant cocktails!

These gluten-free, bold and fruityfavoured vodkas make inspired get-togethers so easy. Choose from Smirnoff Sourced Orange, Grapefruit or Cranberry Apple. Pour over ice and top with soda. So delicious, so summer! #SUMMEROFSMIRNOFF

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SMIRNOFF SOURCED ORANGE VODKA

SMIRNOFF SOURCED GRAPEFRUIT VODKA

SMIRNOFF SOURCED CRANAPPLE VODKA

494021 l 750 mL l $27.25

494013 l 750 mL l $27.25

494005 l 750 mL l $27.25

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CROWD-PLEASER

SMIRNOFF MOSCOW MULE & MARTINI

Clear, clean and silky-smooth: This vodka is the go-to foundation for cocktails both iconic and ofthe-moment cool. Enjoy it with lime and ginger beer in a Moscow Mule, or go simple-chic, with a classic Martini. → Find these cocktail recipes at lcbo.com/smirnoff SMIRNOFF VODKA

Clean & Classic 67 l 750 mL l $27.25

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all beauty. all beast.

THE BOLD new 2018

THE TLX with attitude.

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all beauty. all beast.

THE BOLD new 2018

THE TLX with attitude.

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A SPLASH OF BEER BY HEATHER TRIM

•

PHOTOGRAPHY BY ROB FIOCCA

THE PROOF IS IN THE FLAVOUR WHEN YOU COOK WITH BEER.

BARBECUED PLANKED CHICKEN NACHOS recipe on page 148

My Canadian summer includes beer. Which is no surprise—Canadians have been drink-

ing beer a long time. Iconic Canadian brewers Labatt and Molson have been around longer than we’ve been a country. As for the beer itself, Labatt Blue (LCBO 696468, 473 mL, $2.10) and Molson Canadian (LCBO 904409, 473 mL, $2.55) share personalities much like that of our nation. They’re easygoing, fun to be with, unfussy and go with pretty much everything. While nachos aren’t usually grilled, they are typically served with beer. The cold refreshing taste of the beer ofsets the spicy nature of the dish. This summer, skip the oven and try planking chicken nachos on the barbecue. And why not use beer as an ingredient, not just as a go-to drink? The beer adds favour to the marinade and tenderizes the chicken. As for the cheddar cheese drizzle on top, the favour has been amped up with a splash of beer, which a full-favoured aged Canadian cheddar can easily handle. The plank makes for an attractive serving platter as well as adding smokiness to the dish. There really is no better way to enjoy our too-short Canadian summer than with friends, good food and a refreshing beer. Happy birthday, Canada! F OO D & DR I N K SUMMER 2017 19 2017 19

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WHAT’S NEW BY J ULIA AITKEN

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PHOTOGRAPHY BY VINCE NOGUCHI

A WORLD OF NEW CANADIAN PRODUCTS AT THE LCBO AND VINTAGES.

TAKE IT EASY Open Smooth Red VQA Bag in Box

LCBO 492249, 3 L, $39.95

Whether you’re of to the cottage or travelling only as far as the backyard, bag-in-a-box wine is easy to tote and keeps fresh for up to six weeks. We’re thrilled VQA wines are now available in the format, like this Cabernet Sauvignon-Merlot blend—a top-notch match for grilled steak or veggies, strong cheese or even chocolate.

FOR A SEAFOOD FEAST Sprucewood Shores Pinot Grigio VQA LCBO 426577, $15.10

Sprucewood Shores is a family-run winery located on the sunny northern shore of Lake Erie. Its light-bodied Pinot Grigio includes just a touch of Riesling for a hint of fruitiness. You’ll love the wine’s juicy citrus aromas and flavours and crisp, refreshing finish — splendid with seafood appetizers, pasta with clams and sushi.

EFFORTLESS ENTERTAINING Georgian Bay Vodka Smash

LCBO 491183, 473 mL, $2.95

Here’s a beverage to make long-weekend entertaining a cinch. Like the distiller’s popular gin version that sold out the minute it hit LCBO shelves last summer, Georgian Bay’s new Vodka Smash is lightly carbonated and sports zingy favours of lemon, lime, grapefruit and mint. Simply chill, pour and enjoy. F OO D & DR I N K SUMMER 2017 21

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W H AT ’ S N E W

CAN’T BEAT THIS BOX Long Weekend Wine Co. Chardonnay Pinot Grigio VQA Bag In Box LCBO 492355, 3 L, $44.45

Long Weekend’s easy-drinking blend of Chardonnay and Pinot Grigio was a hit in 2016 so expect accolades this year for one of the first VQA wines packaged in a bagin-a-box. Its fuss-free portability is made for warm-weather enter-taining. Dry and light-bodied with crisp acidity and lingering fruit flavours, the crowd-pleasing sipper is fantastic with ribs, too.

SPIRIT OF THE WEST Sid’s Handcrafted Vodka LCBO 486258, $28.25

Make sure the West is well represented at your birthday bash for Canada’s 150th with this artisanal vodka from Delta, B.C. Crafted from B.C.-grown wheat and malt, and distilled in small batches, it sports aromas of vanilla and citrus and a smooth, caramel fnish. Works beautifully in any celebratory vodka cocktail.

A SUMMER SUNDOWNER Dillon’s Small Batch Rye Whisky LCBO 497263, 500 mL, $39.95

From acclaimed Niagara distiller Dillon’s comes its highly anticipated blended small-batch rye. Like the distiller’s single-cask spirit, it is crafted only of pure rye grain and spends three years ageing in oak. You’ll detect apricot, honey and herbal undertones on the nose. Over ice or straight up, it’s the picture-perfect match for an Ontario sunset.

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2017

With the richest color and an abundance of blooms, Let’s Dance® Reblooming Hydrangeas are completely irresistible, even to the most discriminating observer. Visit us at provenwinners-shrubs.com.

W H AT ’ S N E W

BIRTHDAY BREW Sunnyside Session IPA LCBO 467019, 473 mL, $2.80

Canada’s isn’t the only birthday this year. Great Lakes Brewery is turning 30, making it one of Ontario’s oldest craft breweries. GLB’s seasonal, unfltered IPA takes its name from a ’hood in Toronto’s west end famous for its sweeping beaches. Heady with citrus aromas and favours, it’s light and refreshing with lingering pineapple notes.

FROM B.C. TO YOUR BARBECUE Mission Hill Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon VINTAGES ESSENTIALS 553321, $30.95

PERFECT PINK SIPPER Malivoire Ladybug Rosé VINTAGES ESSENTIALS 559088, $16.95

Nothing says alfresco entertaining like a frosty bottle of rosé. This popular Niagara pink was out of stock but—yay!—it’s back. The bone-dry blend of Pinot Noir, Gamay Noir and Cabernet Franc bursts with red berry favours. A quintessential food-friendly wine, it goes well with shellfsh, grilled fsh, goat cheese and spicy Indian fare.

Great news for lovers of Canadian wines: more wines from B.C. are now available in Ontario. For the ideal barbecue red, reach for this big Cab’ from Mission Hill, one of Okana-gan’s foundation wineries. Its red and black fruit flavours and chocolate and smoky notes team well with juicy steaks or gourmet burgers.

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When you let the lounge chairs plan, there’s not much on the agenda. Welcome Life In

Dune Collection Toronto • Mississauga • Calgary • Edmonton • Laval • Vancouver | 888.657.4108

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5/5/17 10:09 AM

MUST-HAVES BY BR ENDA M ORRISON

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PHOTOGRAPHY BY VINCE NOGUCHI

WHAT YOU NEED TO CELEBRATE CANADA AND MAKE THE MOST OF OUTDOOR ENTERTAINING ALL SUMMER LONG.

COMPACT SOLUTION Brilliant for neighbourhood parties and camping, Kikkerland’s Portable Wine Glasses ($12.50/set of two with black or white stems) are made of durable plastic with a substantial 10-oz capacity. To store them, twist of the stems, which ft inside the glasses, then stack together. There’s even a detachable carrying strap! Available at Midoco (Toronto, 416•588•7718, midoco.ca).

SUMMER ST YLE Classic gingham is more popular than ever with Canadians this summer simply because of the pairing of red with white. These Canvas Gingham Baskets ($42.99, nested set of two) are a stylish way to store fresh fruit or serve burger buns at a barbecue. Available at Rolo (Toronto, 877•765•6438, rolostore.com).

MARK YOUR TERRITORY As much a way to show of one’s patriotic pride as a bright idea for summer decor, these colourful pennants can be displayed individually or strung together. There’s one for Canada plus every province and territory ($18 each)—or collect the entire set of 14 for $99. Available at Drake General Store (Toronto, 416•538•2222, drakegeneralstore.ca).

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GO AWAY, EH! Before mosquitoes crash your party, light these Citronella Filled Candle Pots to keep them at bay ($23, medium, 4 inches high, 18-hour burn time, $26, large, 5 inches high, 36-hour burn time). Afterwards, the cement containers can be reused to grow potted plants or succulents. For retailers, call 800•663•9950 ext. 229.

FOR CANUCK COOKS Le Creuset is celebrating Canada’s 150th with a commemorate maple-leaf-enameled cast iron Round French Oven ($500, 5.3 L capacity) in cherry red. With a limited production of exactly 1,867 units, each one is individually numbered on the lid. Available at Le Creuset Boutiques (lecreuset.ca).

NATIONAL PRIDE SOL AR SALUTE

To celebrate Canada’s sesquicentennial, set an impressive spread for your guests, one that literally extends from coast to coast. Handcrafted from sustainable, easy-to-care-for bamboo, this serving board ($88, 416•607•6766, orangefsh.ca) makes a great souvenir gift for out-of-country friends or family.

Give him a place to stand in the sun and this 71-inch tall Solar Mountie ($30) will wave to welcome guests. An ofcial product under license from the RCMP Foundation, it helps support community programs with its proceeds. Available at Bergo Designs (Toronto, 416•861•1821, bergo.ca).

F OO D & DR I N K SUMMER 2017 27

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Iconic Canadian Cuisine

Yo u r

. O u r Du c k

n a C , h O .

! a ad

We’ve been called a Canadian ‘Farm to Fork’ story legend. For 65 years, our family’s passion for processing ducks of the highest quality and taste has made us a trusted brand around the world. But it’s here at home that matters most and as we celebrate Canada’s 150th, we are proud to be on more menus, more ways, as duck’s popularity has never been so high. King Cole products are available at our farm store, leading grocery, fine restaurants and independent retailers wherever “The Best of Local” is available. You’ve got to try the duck!

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WWW.KINGCOLEDUCKS.COM King Cole Ducks Limited 15351 Warden Ave., Stouffville, ON Canada L4A 2V5

2017-05-12 1:17 PM

TRENDSPOTTING BY ERIC VELLEND

•

PHOTOGRAPHY BY VINCE NOGUCHI

WHAT’S ON OUR RADAR FROM THE WORLD OF FOOD AND DRINK. From svelte hand-helds to hulking power machines, the blender is today’s “it” appliance. We test-drove a few to help you get the most out of your own blender.

I’VE GOT THE POWER While power blenders have become all the rage, the bulk of them are on the high end. Developed with Harley Pasternak, the Toronto-born celebrity trainer and nutritionist, this blender from Salton ofers plenty of muscle at an afordable price. The two-horsepower motor and eightblade system makes quick work of any food, and the cloverleaf-shaped jar prevents pockets of un-blended food. A handy tamper allows you to move along stubborn foods, such as nuts for homemade peanut butter, with the motor running. Additional bonuses include a to-go bottle and a book of Mr. Pasternak’s healthy recipes. Salton Harley Pasternak Professional Grade Power Blender, $299.99 at Canadian Tire.

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T R E N D S P OT T I N G

Appliance Smackdown When it comes to blenders versus food processors, it’s not a matter of either/or. Each has its own advantages in the kitchen. A BLENDER IS BEST FOR Smoothies

➤

Frozen drinks

➤

Nut butters

FLASH IN HAND Also known as a stick blender or an immersion blender, a hand blender is worth owning in addition to a traditional blender, for many reasons. First of, they’re inexpensive and hardly take up any room—most can be tucked away in the utensil drawer. For soups you can blend right in the pot, which cuts down on the number of steps and dirty dishes. They can also whip cream and make mayonnaise (see below) in a matter of seconds. The Cuisinart Smart Stick Hand Blender ($46.99 at Hudson’s Bay) is an excellent starting point, and for a few more bells and whistles including a fve-blade food processor attachment, there’s the Braun Multiquick 7 Hand Blender Set ($199.99 at Hudson’s Bay).

➤

Mayo Made Easy For

Dairy-free milks

➤

A FOOD PROCESSOR IS BEST FOR Finely chopped vegetables

➤

Pesto-type sauces

➤

Dips

➤

Compound butters

➤

Pie dough

➤

novice cooks, whipping up mayonnaise with a whisk and elbow grease often yields a broken, oily mess. Armed with a hand blender, you can whiz homemade mayo in under a minute without breaking a sweat. It’s a wonder anyone makes it the old-fashioned way. Try our foolproof recipe on page 157.

Frozen Cocktails 101

Here are fve tips for making the perfect frozen drink. Read, learn, then try our refreshing Arctic Rye and Ginger (recipe page 157).

1 Always batch and freeze

efciently, make two to four drinks all the ingredients to achieve at a time. the perfect slushie texture. Freeze serving glasses to pre-

2 Don’t be shy with the

sweetener, as the ice mutes the perception of sweetness.

3 For the blender to work

vent premature melting.

5 Make sure to have straws on

hand, as drinking from straws is the only way to enjoy a frozen drink.

TIP To reduce noise, move your blender away from the wall and run it on a folded dishtowel or silicone mat.

ARC TIC RYE AND GINGER BY ROB FIOCCA

Crepe batter

➤

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T R E N D S P OT T I N G

NUTS TO YOU

With a power blender on your counter, nuts can be transformed into a variety of products for breakfast, baking and beyond.

FLOUR Popular in gluten-free baking and German pastries, almond four is dead simple to make. Run raw whole almonds on high speed for about 10 seconds, using the tamper to move any stubborn nuts. Hazelnuts and cashews also make delicious fours. BUTTER A power blender can turn peanuts into smooth peanut butter in minutes. Just place the nuts in the bowl and gradually increase the speed until you reach high, while using the tamper to push them down. Once the machine goes from a high-pitch sound to a low one, it’s ready. Use any nuts you like, but roast them frst for maximum favour. MILK If you’re vegan or lactose intolerant, a blender can create smooth, creamy nut milks. Beyond almonds, experiment with cashews and pistachios. Soak whole raw nuts in cold water for 12 hours. Drain, and for every 1 cup (250 mL) nuts, blend with 4 cups (1 L) hot water until smooth. Strain through cheesecloth, add a pinch of salt, and sweeten to taste with honey or agave syrup.

Building a Better Smoothie There’s a lot more to smoothies than throwing ingredients into the blender. Here’s how to get the most out of your next meal in a glass. ➤

Start with enough liquid to get the motor running, be it milk, non-dairy milks or juice.

➤

In addition to yogurt, protein (and creaminess) can be boosted with cottage cheese, nut butters or silken tofu.

➤

Not only is frozen fruit convenient, it will thicken the smoothie without the need for ice.

➤

Leafy greens are loaded with nutrients, but use robust ones like kale sparingly: they can dominate.

➤

Sweeten to taste with liquid sweeteners such as honey, maple syrup, or agave nectar.

➤

Be wary of the kitchen sink approach or you’ll be feeding a smoothie to the kitchen drain.

Blender Hacks The blender has a few uses outside the kitchen. Here are two unique applications for this versatile machine.

LIQUID COMPOST To make instant compost, blend veggie TIP For quick cleanup, fll a dirty blender halfway with warm water and a drop of dish soap. Run for 30 seconds, dump, and rinse.

scraps, cofee grounds, eggshells and enough water to move things along. Then pour this garbage smoothie over your garden. It’s like a healthy snack for the soil.

HYPER-DECANTING To instantly aerate a young, tannic wine, run it on low in the blender for 30 seconds. Let the foam settle then funnel it back into the bottle or transfer to a decanter. Devised by modernist cooking guru Nathan Myhrvold, hyper-decanting comes in handy for those unexpectedly tough wines.

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Our \\1l1C

cotu1trv ._

PENINSULA RIDGE SAUVIGNON BLANC VOA 53678 750 ml $14.95 LIGHT & CRISP (XO - 6 g/ L)

LONG WEEKEND WINE CO. CHARDONNAY-Pl NOT GRIGIO VOA 427310 750 ml $12.95 LIGHT & CRISP (D - 7 g/L)

MAGNOTTA VIDAL ICEWINE VOA 587154 375 ml $32.95 LUSCIOUSLY SWEET (S - 213 g/L)

In celebration of Canada's 1501 anniversary, we're h1ghhghtmg all of the great wmes, beers and spmts produced right here at home

ASPARAGUS, ASIAGO AND BACON TART Scan t he code for this recipe or visit lcbo.recipes/7404

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GRILLED CHEESE CURD & PEACH SANDWICH Scan the code for th is recipe or visit lcbo.recipes/7403

Featured products available at se lect LCBO stores. Prices subject to change w ithout notice. *Vintages Essentials Co llection is always available at many LCBO locations. Visit vintages.com/essentials

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2017-05-26 11:06 AM

4 GENERATIONS OF PROUD CANADIAN HERITAGE FIVE DOLLARS AND A DREAM. In March 1927, 24-year-old Andrew Peller sailed into Halifax with five dollars in his pocket. It wasn’t until years later, when he planted his first vineyards in British Columbia’s Okanagan Valley, that his ultimate dream would take root. FAMILY MATTERS. Andrew Peller’s modest Okanagan vineyard inspired a vision for the entire family as he opened wineries in British Columbia, Ontario and Nova Scotia. In 1966, Andrew’s son Joe left behind his successful career in medicine to join his father in the family business. THE DREAM INSPIRES A NEW GENERATION. In 1989, Andrew’s grandson John became the third generation to continue the family’s legacy of creating truly world-class wines and a winery experience for Canadians to enjoy with family and friends. As Canada turns 150, we take great pride in our four generations as a family-owned Canadian company. It’s a legacy that reminds us that, above all else, family matters.

Celebrate Canada’s 150th birthday with the ones you love most. Enter at PellerFamilyStories.ca

FROM OUR FAMILY TO YOURS, WE INVITE YOU TO SHARE IN THE CELEBRATION.

Look for our limited-edition packaging in store now.

RULES: No purchase necessary. Contest ends September 29 , 2017. Open to residents of Canada (excluding QC, YT, NT, NU), who has reached the age of 19 years old.

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2017-05-26 2:18 PM

Celebrate Canada’s 150th birthday with the ones you love most. Enter at PellerFamilyStories.ca

FROM OUR FAMILY TO YOURS, WE INVITE YOU TO SHARE IN THE CELEBRATION.

Look for our limited-edition packaging in store now.

RULES: No purchase necessary. Contest ends September 29 , 2017. Open to residents of Canada (excluding QC, YT, NT, NU), who has reached the age of 19 years old.

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Superb quality. Distinctive character. Exceptional value. The fnely crafted wines in our Essentials Collection make exploring the world of wine easy. View the entire collection of 130 proven favourites, hand-picked by our experts. Always available. vintages.com/essentials

26790

Intense red

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NEW

Serious yet playful

Shop online for Vintages Essentials and more at lcbo.com

Great with meaty gourmet pizza MONTE ZOVO SA' SOLIN RIPASSO VALPOLICELLA Veneto, Italy $18.95

650713 750 mL

Medium-bodied & Fruity

Great with seafood appetizers

Kiwi Rosè

SANTA MARGHERITA BRUT VALDOBBIADENE PROSECCO SUPERIORE Veneto, Italy 687582

750 mL

$19.95

Medium-bodied & Flavourful

Great with grilled meats CONUNDRUM RED California, USA 294298

750 mL

$24.95

Full-bodied & Smooth

Great with summer salads KIM CRAWFORD ROSÉ Hawkes Bay, New Zealand 650325

750 mL

$17.95

Easygoing & Fruity

Charming sparkler

Prices subject to change without notice. Available in Vintages locations at select LCBO stores.

26790 P4 F&D Essentials Ad.indd 3

2017-05-19 11:08 AM

FOOD SEASONAL

PERFECT pai˜ings BY J OA N N E YOL L ES

P H OTO G RAP HY BY JAMES T SE

AHHH, SUMMER: FRESH FRUIT PIE WITH SUPERB HOMEMADE ICE CREAM —WHICH, HAPPILY, IS MUCH EASIER TO MAKE THAN YOU’D THINK!

St°e fruit crumble pie

with honey vanilla semifreddo recipes on page 170

F OO D & DR I N K SUMMER ˜°˛˝˙ˆ˛

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SEASONAL PERFECT PAIRINGS

Wild bluebery hand pies with lemon-lime sherbet I think of wild blueberries as the precious jew-els of an Ontario summer. I anxiously await their arrival every year. These hand pies can be easily eaten “out of hand” or served a little more formally, with our refreshing LemonLime Sherbet and lightly sweetened whipped cream. Substituting cake flour for a portion of the all-purpose flour in the pastry results in a delicately tender crust. 1 recipe All Butter Pie Pastry (recipe page 171), substituting half cake four for the all-purpose four, and shaped into two 4 x 4-inch (10 x 10-cm) squares

BLUBERRY FILLING 1 cup (250 mL) wild blueberries 2 to 3 tbsp (30 to 45 mL) sugar ½ tsp (2 mL) fresh lemon or lime juice 1½ tsp (7 mL) cornstarch dissolved in 2 tsp (10 mL) cold water 1 egg beaten with 1 tbsp (15 mL) water for egg wash Demerara sugar for sprinkling

1 Combine the wild blueberries, sugar and lemon or lime juice in a small saucepan. Place

over medium heat and cook just until the sugar has dissolved and the blueberries begin to release their juice. Stir in the cornstarch mixture, bring to a boil and cook just until the juice thickens and becomes translucent—the — berries should remain whole. Remove from heat and cool completely.

over each of the blueberry-topped squares. Gently press down the edges with your finger-tips to seal. Refrigerate for 15 to 20 minutes.

2 Line 2 baking sheets with parchment paper and set aside. On a lightly foured surface, roll 1 piece of dough to a 10½ x 10½-inch (26 x 26-cm) square. Using a futed, square cookie cutter, or with a knife or pastry wheel, cut into nine 3½-inch (9-cm) squares, transfer to one of the baking sheets and refrigerate. Roll and cut the second piece of dough in the same fashion and transfer the squares to the second baking sheet. Refrigerate just until frm.

6 Brush the chilled pies with egg wash and sprinkle with demerara sugar. Place on the lower rack and bake for 15 to 20 minutes. Transfer to the upper rack and bake another 10 to 15 minutes or until the fruit is bubbling and the pastry is golden brown. Serve warm with Lemon-Lime Sherbet (recipe p. 172).

3 Remove the first set of squares from the fridge. Divide the blueberry flling among the squares, mounding it in the centre. Brush egg wash lightly around the edges of the dough. 4 Remove the second set of squares from the fridge. Using a sharp paring knife, cut several slits vertically and horizontally in each one. Gently stretch them open as you place them

5 Place 1 oven rack in the lowest position and the other rack in the middle position. Preheat the oven to 400°F (200°C).

Makes 9 hand pies

W H AT TO S E RV E Smirnof Blueberry Flavoured Vodka LCBO 380303, $27.45

Rossi DAsiago ’ Limoncello LCBO 469643, $22.15

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SEASONAL PERFECT PAIRINGS

For this recipe, the crust gets pre-baked and the cherry filling precooked; both are extra steps taken to avoid soggy pastry. Sour cher-ries are meant to be on the tart side, but taste the filling after it’s cooked and add a little more sugar if you like. The accompanying Candied Almond Semifreddo will also add its own sweetness. 1 recipe All Butter Pie Pastry, divided and shaped into 2 discs (recipe page 171)

SOUR CHERRY FILLING ¼ cup (60 mL) cornstarch dissolved in 3 tbsp (45 mL) cold water 6 cups (1.5 L) sour cherries, pitted (see TIP) 1 cup (250 mL) sugar 1 tsp (5 mL) vanilla bean paste (optional) 1 egg mixed with 1 tbsp (15 mL) water for egg wash Granulated sugar for sprinkling

Sor chery pie

1 On a lightly floured surface, roll one disc of dough to a 12-inch (30-cm) circle and transfer to a 9-inch (23-cm) pie plate. Fold the overhang under itself so it is sitting on top of the rim of the plate, and crimp decoratively. Refrigerate for 1 hour.

5 Place the oven rack in the middle position and preheat the oven to 375°F (190°C).

2 Place the oven rack in the lowest positon and preheat the oven to 400°F (200°C).

7 Transfer the cooled cherry mixture to the pre-baked pie shell. Top with the pastry cutouts and sprinkle with granulated sugar. Bake the pie until the flling is bubbling and the top is golden brown, about 1 hour. Cool on a wire rack and serve with Candied Almond Semifreddo (recipe p. 171).

3 Prick the bottom of the pie shell with a fork then line with foil, making sure to fold the foil completely over the top edge. Fill with pie weights (dried beans), building them up the sides. Bake for 20 to 25 minutes or until the sides are dry and set. Remove from oven and reduce temperature to 350°F (180°C). Remove the foil and weights and place the pie shell back in the oven. Bake until the crust is completely dry and beginning to take on colour, about 15 to 20 minutes. Cool on a wire rack. 4 For the filling, dissolve the cornstarch in cold water and set aside. Combine the cherries and sugar in a large pot and place over medium heat. Cook, stirring occasionally, until the cherries release their juice. Increase the heat and bring the cherries to a simmer. Add the cornstarch mixture and mix with a wooden spoon until the mixture boils and thickens, and the liquid becomes translucent. Remove from heat, add the vanilla bean paste if using and transfer the cherry mixture to a bowl. Taste and add a little more sugar if desired. Cool completely.

6 On a lightly foured surface, roll the second disc of dough to a 12-inch (30-cm) circle. Cut out pieces of dough with a cookie cutter and brush each piece with egg wash.

Serves 8 to 10

TIP Farmer’s markets in July are brimming with sour cherries, the only kind to use for this pie. Though pitting cherries takes time, it’s well worth the effort. Sour cherries are on the softer side so the pits can be removed with a slight squeeze. (Some Loblaws stores, and other grocers, now carry fresh pitted sour cherries, — when in season—certainly a time saver.)

W H AT TO S E RV E Schloss Kirsch LCBO 43018, 375 mL, $22.20

Disaronno Originale Amaretto LCBO 2253, $30.10

with candied almond semifreddo

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SEASONAL PERFECT PAIRINGS

Fresh fig and raspbery galete with raspberry swirl ice cream If you’re like me and you love the crust of a pie, this galette will surely satisfy. After rolling the dough into a very large round and folding it over the fruit filling, it acts like a full top crust. A delicious combination of figs and raspber-ries are accompanied by a scoop of homemade Raspberry Swirl Ice Cream. 1 recipe All Butter Pie Pastry, shaped into a single disc (recipe page 171)

FRUIT FILLING 2 tbsp (30 mL) light brown sugar 2 tbsp (30 mL) four 16 fresh fgs, stemmed and cut lengthwise into sixths 3 tbsp (45 mL) granulated sugar, divided 1 tsp (5 mL) lemon juice Heaping 1 cup (250 mL) fresh raspberries 1 egg beaten with 1 tbsp (15 mL) water for egg wash Demerara sugar for sprinkling

1 Place the oven rack in the lowest position and preheat the oven to 425°F (220°C). Combine the light brown sugar and flour and set aside. 2 On a lightly foured surface, roll the dough to a large round about 17 to 18 inches (43 to 45 cm) in diameter. Transfer to a 9- or 10-inch (23- or 25-cm) pie plate allowing the dough to hang over the edges. Sprinkle the brown sugar-four mixture over the bottom. 3 Gently mix the fresh fgs with 2 tbsp (30 mL) of granulated sugar and the lemon juice, then arrange them over the bottom of the dough. 4 Top the figs with the raspberries and sprinkle with the remaining tbsp (15 mL) of granulated sugar. 5 Lift the dough up and over the fruit, pleating it gently as you go. The dough will cover most of the fruit, leaving only a small round in the middle exposed.

6 Refrigerate the galette for 15 minutes. Brush the dough with egg wash and sprinkle generously with demerara sugar. Bake for 30 minutes or until the pastry begins to take on colour. Reduce the oven temperature to 350°F (180°C) and continue baking until the fruit is bubbling and the pastry is golden brown, about 15 to 20 minutes longer. Transfer to a wire rack and serve warm with Raspberry Swirl Ice Cream (recipe p. 170). Serves 8 to 10

W H AT TO S E RV E Laura Secord Chocolate Cream Liquor LCBO 407379, $30.00

Southbrook Framboise LCBO 341024, 375 mL, $18.20

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SEASONAL PERFECT PAIRINGS

Peach and redcurant slab pie with sour cream ice cream August in Ontario brings to mind fresh, sweet, juicy peaches, but the thought of blanching and peeling them, particularly for a large pie— well, I’d rather be out enjoying the sun. My goto tool for this task is a “serrated peeler.” The skins of peaches (and tomatoes for that matter) are quickly and easily removed, therefore avoiding the whole boiling water thing. Fresh redcurrants are added to the filling for their tartness as well as for their beautiful red hue. Along with some Sour Cream Ice Cream, the most basic of recipes, you can create a wonderful homage to summer. Double recipe of All Butter Pie Pastry, divided and shaped into 2 rectangles about 5 x 7 inches (12 x 18 cm) (recipe page 171)

FRUIT FILLING 1¼ cups plus 3 tbsp (310 mL plus 45 mL) light brown sugar, divided 3 tbsp (45 mL) four ⅓ cup (80 mL) cornstarch 11 cups (2.75 L) peaches, peeled and sliced ¼ inch (5 mm) thick 1½ cups (375 mL) redcurrants 1 tbsp (15 mL) lemon juice

1 egg plus 1 yolk mixed with 1 tbsp (15 mL) water for egg wash Granulated sugar for sprinkling

1 Place the oven rack in the lowest position and preheat the oven to 425°F (220°C). 2 Line two 12 x 17-inch (30 x 43-cm) baking sheets with parchment paper and set aside. On a lightly foured surface, roll 1 piece of dough to a 14 x 20-inch (35 x 50-cm) rectangle and place into the baking sheet, making sure it goes up the sides of the pan. Refrigerate. Roll out the second piece of dough in the same fashion and refrigerate while preparing the fruit flling. 3 Combine the 3 tbsp (45 mL) of brown sugar with the flour and set aside. In a separate bowl, combine the cornstarch and remaining 1¼ cups (310 mL) brown sugar and set aside. In a large bowl, combine the peaches, redcurrants and lemon juice. Add the cornstarchsugar mixture and toss gently to combine. 4 Using a small cookie cutter, cut holes in 1 of the chilled pastry sheets, keeping the cut-outs to place on top of the pie before baking. Sprinkle the brown sugar-flour mixture over the bottom of the other pastry. Top with the fruit

mixture and juices in an even layer, followed by the top pastry. Tuck the top and bottom layers of pastry together and crimp the edges to seal. Chill the pie for 10 to 15 minutes before baking. 5 Brush the top of the pie, but not the crimped edges, with the egg wash. Place pastry cut-outs on top if desired, brush them lightly with egg wash as well. Sprinkle the top of the pie generously with sugar and bake for 30 minutes or until the pastry begins to take on colour. Reduce oven temperature to 350°F (180°C) and continue baking for 20 minutes. Turn the pie around and bake another 15 to 20 minutes until the fruit is bubbling and the pastry is golden brown. Cool on a wire rack and serve with Sour Cream Ice Cream (recipe p. 168). Makes 1 large pie for a crowd!

W H AT TO S E RV E Elijah Craig 12 Year Old Kentucky Straight Bourbon LCBO 547729, $48.20

Rumchata LCBO 380865, $30.05

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WE DIDN’T INVENT TEQUILA

Tequila has been around for centuries, but we took the time to get it right, crafting a small batch spirit that’s worth sipping slowly. It requires Mexico’s finest 100% Weber Blue Agave, hand-selected and distilled in custom copper stills for a smooth finish every time. We didn’t invent tequila,

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WE JUST PERFECTED IT.

2017-05-26 2:08 PM

S:7.6”

S:9.6”

FOUND TIME TO RE AD? THIS CALLS FOR A TA S T E O F C H E E S E C A K E. NEW Philadelphia® Cheesecake Crèmes. Made with rich, creamy Philly® Cream Cheese and real strawberries, it’s the taste you love in a size made-for-one. Look for it in the refrigerated dessert aisle.

NEW

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DRINK SPIRITS

LONG WEEKEND

drinks

BY MI C HEL L E P. E . HU NT & L AU RA PANTER P HOTOG RAP HY BY JAMES TSE

FLAVOURFUL COCKTAILS THAT ARE LIGHT ON ALCOHOL LET YOU KICK BACK AND ENJOY LATE SUMMER AFTERNOONS WITHOUT OVERDOING IT. One of the biggest drink trends emerging for 2017 is a loweralcohol cocktail option. Ideal for sunny afternoons, these refreshers are a great way to enjoy cocktails that are light, fresh and delicious. Often they’re made with flavourful products called aperitivos, a term that describes bitter and herbaceous liquors but can also include sake, sherry, vermouths and even wine varietals, which are combined with fruit juices and sodas to create a wonderful variety of new drinks that are lighter than our traditional summer sippers. We have used classic products and some brand new offerings to craft unique and delicious cocktails that will delight your guests: perfect for an afternoon on the patio.

LUXARDO BITTER BIANCO

LCBO 495747, $23.95

This new entry to our market is a classic spirit from one of Italy’s oldest distillers. Bitter Bianco is a clear liquid with a perfectly balanced palate of bitter herbs, citrus notes and a sweet fnish, and it can be used to create everything from a lighter-style version of a Negroni to a clear and simple spritz. We utilize the unique notes to enhance our Italian Paloma, with ruby red grapefruit, agave and lime.

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SPIRITS LONG WEEKEND DRINKS

CAPO CAPO APERITIVO ROSSO LCBO 493221, $24.95

Another new, smartly packaged liquid, often described as midway between Campari and Aperol — less bitter than the former, less sweet than the latter—but we love the rich notes of rhubarb and hints of cinnamon that make this product unique and lovely. Combined with lemon, orange and cranberry juices, our Capo Punch is richly hued, luxuriously delicious, and can be made in a pitcher in advance for easy service to your guests.

Capo Punch recipe on page 144

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Double the Storage, Double the Eﬃciency Timeless Design. Super Quiet. German Engineered.

Euro-Line Appliances Inc. 871 Cranberry Court Oakville, ON L6L 6J7

Euro-Line Appliances West Inc. 2912 West 4th Ave. Vancouver, BC V6K 1R2

home.liebherr.com

08.05.17 12:03

SPIRITS LONG WEEKEND DRINKS

AMARO MONTENEGRO

VINTAGES 601484, $26.00

The word amaro, in Italian, means “bitter,” and applies to a whole myriad of spirits. Typically drunk after dinner, these digestifs can vary in alcohol content, sugar content and, most of all, favour. Each producer creates its product with a secret blend of herbs, spices and aromatics, for a unique and delicious ofering. We used one of our favourites here, with its lovely notes of vanilla and orange peel, for a wonderfully layered, complex yet utterly drinkable cooler.

WEEKEND IN MONTENEGRO recipe on page 144

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B E AU T I F U L LY NEED OUTDOOR DESIGN IDEAS? VISIT OUR OUTDOOR IDEA CENTER From traditional to modern, Unilock ofers an unrivaled variety of colors, styles and textures you can’t get anywhere else.

Visit our Outdoor Idea Center to learn more: SEE an expansive display of products TALK to knowledgeable staf TAKE free samples APR - JUN JULY AUG - SEP

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Mon - Wed 9 - 6 Thurs - Fri 9 - 8 Sat - Sun 10 - 4 Mon - Wed 9 - 6 Thurs - Fri 9 - 8 Sat 10 - 4 Mon - Fri 9 - 6 Sat 10 - 4 OCT - NOV Mon - Fri 9 - 5

GEORGETOWN

287 Armstrong Ave. Georgetown

UNILOCK.COM | 1-800-UNILOCK

2017-05-26 2:09 PM

We sell 100 + million bottles of wine every year, so naturally we are always looking for new ways to reduce our environmental footprint. So, we championed a lightweight glass standard that has helped us set a more sustainable benchmark around the world. Affectionately known as The Canada Bottle, it has been one of our most infuential initiatives.

lcbo.com/CanadaBottle

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26828

Our lightweight wine bottle initiative reduces waste by 6 million kg annually. Or the weight of 8,500 moose.

2017-05-25 9:23 PM

FOOD BASICS

CLASSIC SOUTHERN BUTTERMILK FRIED CHICKEN recipe on page 143

GUIDE TO

FRIED CHICKEN With entire restaurants now devoted to trendy fried chicken, we ofer up tips for success when making your own at home—plus a classic recipe that’ll stand out at any summer picnic. BY J ENNIFER M ac KENZIE

•

PHOTOGRAPHY BY ROB FIOCCA

THERE MAY BE as many theories on making the perfect fried chicken as there are restaurants serving up the savoury, golden morsels of crunchy decadence these days. Once a dish only to be found on restaurant menus in the Deep South and fast food chains, fried chicken is making an appearance in gastro pubs, casual restaurants and diners, and the occasional white-tablecloth establishment in a myriad favours and styles. With some whys and hows, detailed instructions and tips from pros, you, too, can up your fried chicken game at home and put your skills to the test with our Classic Southern Buttermilk Fried Chicken recipe.

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BASICS GUIDE TO FRIED CHICKEN

MOISTEN THE CHICKEN Tender, juicy meat with layers of seasoning is imperative to fabulous fried chicken. Along with using good-quality chicken, here’s how to achieve it. BRINING Boldly seasoned salt-sugar liquid brine infuses chicken with moisture and favour. Immerse chicken pieces; refrigerate for 18 to 24 hours. Drain, rinse and pat chicken dry. M A R I N AT I N G Using buttermilk as a marinade after, or instead of, brining adds tang and tenderizes. Use it plain, or add heat and spices. Immerse and refrigerate for 8 to 24 hours. S A LT- R U B A dry salt and spice rub generously coating the chicken is another option; cover and refrigerate for about 24 hours, then wet dip and coat. SPIRITS FOR CRISPINESS Add a splash of vodka or other spirit to marinade or wet dip for extra crispiness.

COAT THE CHICKEN Nut-brown, shatteringly crispy coating is the fnal goal. There are many theories on how to achieve that. Typically the chicken is dipped in wet ingredients (the wet dip), then in a dry coating. Most often chicken is coated raw but some cooks bake or sous vide the chicken before coating to shorten frying time. Buttermilk marinade can function as your wet dip, too; drain of excess and go straight to the dry coating. Some recipes include egg, which thickens the wet dip and encourages more dry coating to cling, while others include beer to add another dimension of favour and crispiness.

Flour is most typical for dry coating. Add crushed cereal, bread crumbs or cornmeal to vary crunchiness. Adding cornstarch and/or baking powder provides delicate crispiness. To get a craggy, extra-crunchy texture, add a couple of spoons of wet dip to the dry coating mixture. Add just a few chicken pieces at a time to dry coating for even coverage. Toss dipped chicken with dry coating in a paper or plastic bag or toss in a large bowl and hand-pat it on. Place coated pieces on a rack set over a baking sheet and let stand 30 minutes to help the coating adhere.

SAFETY TIPS When frying, be attentive! Never leave hot oil unat-

tended; have a large metal lid or baking sheet at hand and a large container of baking soda to smother any fre; an oil-rated fre extinguisher should be close by. It’s never safe to par cook poultry or meat, then hold. To make ahead, cook chicken thoroughly, chill it quickly, then reheat before serving.

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Seize the daytime this summer with Rickard’s Radler, a refreshing combination of premium lager and grapefruit. And for a fresh twist on this new classic, try mixing it up with our recipe for the ultimate patio-side cocktail. Full recipe and other ways to seize the daytime at Rickards.ca

Rickard’s Radler 12 o’Clocktail INGREDIENTS:

• • • • •

2 cups pineapple juice 1 cup white rum 1 cup pineapple chunks 1 cup mango chunks 1/3 cup lime juice

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INSTRUCTIONS:

• • •

1 lime, thinly sliced 2 tall cans Rickard’s® Radler, cold Ice

1. Mix pineapple juice, rum, pineapple chunks, mango chunks, lime juice and lime slices. Refrigerate for a min of 1 hour. 2. Fill pitcher with ice and add pineapple juice mixture. 3. Top up with two cold Rickard’s® Radlers.

Serves: 8

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BASICS GUIDE TO FRIED CHICKEN

TEMPERATURE Monitor constantly and adjust the heat as necessary to maintain target temperature. It’s important to get the oil hotter to start as the chicken will cool it down quickly when added. As you cook the subsequent batches, the pan will hold the heat better so you can heat the oil to a slightly lower temperature in between each batch. Too hot and the outside will burn; too cool causes greasy, tough chicken. Cook just 2 or 3 pieces at a time. Two accurate thermometers are essential: one to monitor oil, one to check internal temperature of the chicken.

Perfecting the frying step is crucial to elevating your fried chicken to star status.

FRYING EQUIPMENT Heavy gauge cookware is key: a 12-inch (30-cm) or larger cast-iron skillet for shallow frying, or a deep, heavy Dutch oven for deep-frying. When flling with oil, leave room for the chicken and for bubbling; don’t let oil spill over. An electric deep-fryer or wok regulates temperature well.

OIL Canola oil and peanut oil are optimal for frying due to their neutral favour and high smoke point, which makes them stable. Fresh, clean oil gives the best texture and favour, and prevents greasy chicken. Cooled oil can be strained through cheesecloth, stored and re-used but the quality decreases with each use.

POST-FRYING Place fried chicken on a wire rack set over a rimmed baking sheet. If it’s not cooked through when the crust is brown and crisp, bake in the oven on the rack to fnish the cooking. Let cool for 10 minutes.

fry the chicken

TIPS FROM THE

PROS Head Chef BECKY HOOD of 39 Carden Street restaurant in Guelph and Street Food Guelph food truck: Use a higher heat 350°F ° (180°C) ° to fry, then an oven bake to cook through, and a quick second fry to crisp it up.

BRAD WATT, Chef and Owner of Rare in Peterborough: Start with good chicken, soak in brine loaded with onions and seasonings then in plain buttermilk, each for 24 hours, to get moisture and flavour into the meat. MATT BASILE, Chef and Owner ’ + Bar Lisa Marie in of Fidel Gastro’s Toronto: Brine in dill pickle liquid for a punch of flavour. Squeeze the flour coating onto chicken pieces with your hands to pack it on for maxi-’ do it. mum crunch; tossing doesn’t HOME EC TIPS: Cover the stove and counters surrounding your frying pan with large sheets of foil to con-tain splatter. Use a vinegar-water solution to wipe surfaces after frying.

SERVING SUGGESTIONS AND FINISHING SAUCES Just when you thought fried chicken was decadent enough, there are the fnishing sauces and ideal accompaniments! Baked mac and cheese, pasta salad and coleslaw are traditional sides, or from our recipe archives (at foodanddrink.ca), a refreshing salad such as Napa Cabbage Slaw; Tomato, Watermelon & Feta Salad; Black Bean, Grilled Corn and Watermelon Salad or Spinach & Orzo Salad. Or you can go full out and make Cheddar Herb Wafes or Simple Buttermilk Wafes (omit the cinnamon) to complete the feast.

NASHVILLE HOT CHICKEN Melt 1⁄2 cup (125 mL) butter and stir in 1 tbsp (15 mL) cayenne (or more for extra-fery), 1 tsp (5 mL) garlic powder and 1⁄2 tsp (2 mL) salt. Baste fried chicken just before serving; serve on a slice of white bread with tangy pickles.

KOREAN FRIED CHICKEN Combine 4 cloves minced garlic, 1 tbsp (15 mL) grated ginger, 1⁄3 cup (75 mL) gochujang chili paste, 3 tbsp (45 mL) each sugar, soy sauce and rice vinegar and 1 tbsp (15 mL) sesame oil; toss with hot fried chicken.

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FOR WHOLE

MOUTH HEALTH

ELIMINATE

15X MORE BACTERIA

with the full Colgate Total* regimen.

+ Colgate Total* toothpaste reduces bacteria on teeth, tongue, cheeks and gums; helps prevent plaque & gingivitis, fortiﬁes enamel. Not intended for prevention or treatment of more serious oral conditions. **Colgate Total* anti-gingivitis/anti-plaque toothpaste and mouthwash when used together, compared to a toothpaste and a mouthwash that do not contain anti-microbial ingredients that treat plaque build-up and gingivitis. † Protection against plaque and gingivitis germs when used after brushing. Colgate-Palmolive Canada Inc. *TM Reg’d/M.D.

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E Ex plore taste. Explore Toronto. Explore

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DRINK WINE

matching THE CATCH BY JA M E S CHAT TO & MON DA R OSENBERG

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PHOTOGRAPHY BY DARREN KEM PER

NEXT TIME YOU HANG OUT A “GONE FISHING” SIGN TO GO CATCH DINNER, THESE SIMPLY DELICIOUS RECIPES WILL MAKE THE MOST OF THAT FISH, PAIRED WITH JUST THE RIGHT ONTARIO WINES.

GREMOLATA RAINBOW TROUT WITH COCONUT CURRY SAUCE recipe on page 155

PELLER ESTATES ICE CUVÉE VQA |

LCBO 284547, $34.95

Peller makes a top-rank sparkling wine from Chardonnay and Pinot Noir and fnishes it with a dosage of Vidal icewine, adding of-dry richness and aromas of honey and lemon marmalade. Usually drunk on its own, this bubbly works surprisingly well with a coconut-based curry, matching the weight and echoing the citrus gremolata. Chill the wine well and keep it cold in an ice bucket.

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WINE MATCHING THE CATCH

CHÂTEAU DES CHARMES BARREL FERMENTED CHARDONNAY VQA | LCBO 81653, $14.95 Hazelnuts and butter call for an oaky Chardonnay and few offer better value than this one. Barrel fermentation followed by months in French oak bring plenty of vanilla and biscuit into play but they’re expertly balanced by fruity apple and papaya and enough acidity to keep things lively. The wine’s medium-to-full body brings the necessary weight to handle the rich brown butter in the dish.

PAN-FRIED PICKEREL WITH HAZELNUT BROWN BUTTER Sweet tasting pickerel deserves its rank as Ontario’s best-tasting fish. Fortunately, it’s not only one of our most popular angler fish but many supermarkets now receive a fresh shipment of pickerel twice weekly. The nutty brown butter with crunchy hazelnuts in this recipe contrasts beautifully with the creami-ness of the tender fish. ½ cup (125 mL) hazelnuts, lightly toasted and skins removed 1 lb (500 g) pickerel fllets, skin removed Salt and ground white pepper 5 tbsp (75 mL) unsalted butter, divided Finely grated zest of 1 orange (optional)

1 Coarsely chop nuts and set aside. Cut pickerel into serving-size pieces. Generously sprinkle all over with salt and white pepper. 2 For brown butter, place 3 tbsp (45 mL) butter in a large skillet over medium heat. Swirl occasionally until it starts to develop brown specks, about 3 minutes. Add nuts and stir about 30 seconds (do not let nuts brown). Turn into a dish to stop the cooking. Stir in a generous sprinkle of salt. 3 Wipe out the pan. Add remaining 2 tbsp (30 mL) butter to pan and set over medium heat. Add fish and sauté until pale golden, 2 to 4 minutes a side, depending on thickness. Remove each piece when cooked through. Turn off the heat. Return all fish to pan and pour browned butter and nuts overtop. Tilt pan and spoon butter and nuts over fish several times. Remove to plates, spooning nuts and butter over fish. Sprinkle with zest if you wish. Serves 2 to 3

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NEW LOOK

TRUE CRAFTSMANSHIP IS AT OUR CORE Fresh country look, Same great craft taste. Ou story begins at the junction of Georgian Bay and the Our Blue Mountains, rooted in the rich, century-long heritage of Ontario apple country. We proudly craft Thornbury Village Craft Apple Cider in the midst of 7,500 acres of apple orchards. Using the finest apples that these orchards have to offer, we have created an easy drinking, light, crisp and refreshing craft cider.

WINE MATCHING THE CATCH

PROSCIUTTO-WRAPPED PERCH WITH CHUNKY GUACAMOLE Yellow perch are ideal for pan-frying because of their firm yet flaky flesh, and their delicate sweet flavour takes well to light seasonings. If you’re lucky enough to hook a bass or two, their fillets also work beautifully in this recipe. The prosciutto adds a nice upscale wrapping, making them com-pany-worthy. 1 large ripe Hass avocado, peeled and pitted ¼ cup (60 mL) plain Greek yogurt 1 large garlic clove, fnely grated 1 tbsp (15 mL) fnely chopped jalapeño Salt 8 Ontario yellow perch fllets, about 8 oz (250 g) total White pepper 1½ tsp (7 mL) dried tarragon, divided 8 thin slices prosciutto, about 4 oz (125 g) 2 tbsp (30 mL) butter

1 Place avocado, yogurt, garlic, jala-peño and a generous pinch of salt in a bowl. Using a fork, mash together until creamy but still chunky. 2 Generously sprinkle fsh fllets with salt and white pepper. Using about 1 tsp (5 mL) tarragon, sprinkle over both sides of fllets. Wrap 1 slice of prosciutto around each fllet. 3 Melt butter in a large skillet over medium heat. Add fish and cook until prosciutto just starts to crisp, 2 to 3 minutes a side. Sprinkle remaining tarragon over fsh and butter in pan, then spoon hot butter over fsh. Remove to plates and spoon butter mixture overtop. Serve fsh with chunky guacamole on top or alongside. Serves 2 to 3

HENRY OF PELHAM ROSE VQA |

LCBO 613471, $14.95

A delicate pink wine for a delicate fish—but — this sophisticated Niag-ara rosé is no shrinking violet. Half a dozen red varieties combine to give bright strawberry and red cherry aromas which carry through to the flavour, the fresh fruit notes marrying nicely with the guacamole. A clean dry finish balances the salty prosciutto. It’s ’ a lovely wine for a warm summer evening.

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F r o m t h e F a m i ly o f M a v e r i c k s w h o c r e at e d t h e S i n g l e M a lt C at e g o r y c o m e s t h e N e x t G e n e r at i o n o f G r o u n d - B r e a k i n g F l av o u r .

Think you know whisky ? think again. T h e G l e n f i d d i c h ® I PA E x p e r i m e n t is the First in a Series of I n n o v at i v e N e w W h i s k i e s t h at will challenge every thing you thought you knew about S i n g l e M a lt S c o t c h . #UnLearnWhisky

S K I L F U L LY C R A F T E D . E N J O Y R E S P O N S I B LY.

Glenﬁddich® Single Malt Scotch Whisky is a registered trademark of William Grant & Sons Ltd

WINE MATCHING THE CATCH

BARBECUED SPICY TROUT WITH VINE-RIPENED TOMATOES At the grocery store’s fish counter, the sign for steelhead trout might also show the words trout/salmon. While steelheads are not in the salmon family, they do have the same ap-pealing pink-tinged flesh, with a similar but slighter milder taste. Fillets run around 1 lb (500 g) and an inch (2.5 cm) in thickness, making them ideal for barbecuing because you lay them skin-side down on the grill and don’t have to flip them over. 1 steelhead trout fllet, about 1 lb (500 g) Vegetable oil 1 tbsp (15 mL) sesame oil 1 tsp (5 mL) ground cumin ½ tsp (2 mL) chili powder 2 tsp (10 mL) sriracha sauce 1 tbsp (15 mL) olive oil 1 tsp (5 mL) dried leaf basil Generous pinch of salt 3 stems vine-ripened cherry tomatoes

1 Turn all burners on the barbecue to high. Cover and heat for about 10 minutes. 2 Meanwhile, lightly brush or spray skin side of fish with vegetable oil. Gently pat with a paper towel to avoid drips and flare-ups. Turn fish skin-side down on a baking sheet for car-rying to barbecue. In a small bowl, blend ses-ame oil with cumin, chili and sriracha. Spoon lengthwise along flesh side of fish, then brush or rub evenly over flesh. Blend olive oil with basil and salt and brush mixture all over to-matoes; place on sheet with trout.

ANGELS GATE GAMAY NOIR VQA |

LCBO 107714, $13.95

Even though Angels Gate ages its Gamay in oak, tannins are still low enough to be fish-friendly, while the wine’s fresh acidity and cheerful red berry fruitiness make it a fine companion for the grilled tomatoes. Serve it slightly chilled to bring up the ripe raspberry, bramble and plum aromatics—they — complement the spices and caramelization from the barbecue in a most delicious way.

3 Turn heat down to medium. Place fish on grill, skin-side down. Place tomatoes stemside up beside fish. Close lid and barbecue 5 minutes. Remove tomatoes and continue barbecuing fish, with lid down, for 5 more minutes or until white juices start to ap-pear on the flesh. Use a wide metal spatula to remove fish from the grill. Serve tomatoes alongside fish, either by themselves or on a bed of greens. Serves 3

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PHOTOGRAPHY BY JAMES TSE

SUMMER Summer in Canada is always cause for celebration, but this year is special. There will be 150th birthday parties all across this wonderful country—and many a glass raised to toast how lucky we are to live here. We have some entertaining ideas that we hope will inspire, starting with a bouquet of cosmopolitan recipes for a Canada Day block party— which will work just as beautifully for a family gathering. We also have a collection of red and white dishes, prompted by our fag (patriotism has rarely tasted so good!). And, to round of our exploration of home grown excellence, read on for our story that looks at the best places to eat, drink, stay and shop from one end of the country to the other. Sticking to our own backyards, may we ofer an article written in honour of our national pastime — the barbecue. You’ll find it a useful compendium of uptodate tips, trends and recipes for the grill, sharing the knowhow for grilling anything from seafood to salads. And talking of trends, vodka is back in the limelight, with fascinating new spirits made from many diferent grains—and some other, more exotic beginnings. We ofer a primer on the best way to stage a vodka tasting party that explores the nuances of the spirit. Light and bright! It’s summertime and the sun is shining—happy birthday, Canada!

72 NEIGHBOURHOOD FEAST | 80 TRUE COLOURS | 86 OH CANADA! 94 CLEAR CHOICES | 100 HOT OFF THE GRILL

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NEIGHBOURHOOD

FEAST BY ERIC VELLEND

•

PHOTOGRAPHY BY JAM ES TSE

These diverse dishes are designed to be portable and appeal to many tastes, ideal for a neighbourhood block party or a backyard potluck—whether you divvy them up to make them all or choose a favourite to bring along. bacon and thick smears of avocado purée. and the bouncy castle is rented. It’s time The feast continues with Mexican-style for a street party! Since this kind of neigh- street corn salad, succulent hoisin-glazed bourhood fete only happens once a year, ribs, and lemongrass shrimp skewers hot we’ve got a fresh, summery menu to save of the grill. As the sun goes down, set out you from the crutch of juice boxes and fro- the sweet table with s’mores two ways: zen pucks of beef. gooey sandwich cookies with homemade As the kids roll in, their eyes will bug graham crackers and mini sundaes topped out for icy watermelon limeade sprouting with hot fudge sauce and torched marshfragrant sprigs of mint. At the house next mallows. It’s a ftting fnale to a blockbuster door they’re shaking up peachy mocktails of a party. garnished with ripe local fruit. There are To help set the mood, with an upbeat burgers, of course: juicy chicken patties mix of Canadian pop, rock, dance and intopped with peak-season tomatoes, crisp die artists, visit lcbo.com/canadaplaylist.

SEE SOURCE RESOURCE

THE DATE IS SET, permits are secured,

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WATERMELON LIMEADE recipe on page 161

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NIAGARA FRUIT BELT PUNCH & MEXICAN STREET CORN SALAD recipes on pages 163 & 158

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HOISIN-GLAZED RIBS WITH SESAME AND SCALLIONS recipe on page 158

LEMON-GRASS SHRIMP SKEWERS WITH SAIGON SLAW recipe on page 164

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CHICKEN CLUB BURGERS WITH AVOCADO MAYO recipe on page 161

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MINI S’MORES SUNDAES recipe on page 163

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S’MORES SANDWICH COOKIES recipe on page 164

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STRAWBERRY & COCONUT

Semifredo recipe on page 166

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TRUE Coors BY CHRISTOPHER ST. ONGE

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PHOTOGRAPHY BY ROB FIOCCA

Celebrate Canada Day in deliciously colourful style with recipes that are naturally red and white—not a dye or artifcial ingredient in sight! DIG OUT the red and white hats, (yup, it’s a mouthful) party with fve paint the kids’ faces, fy that fag! dishes dressed in our favourite coThere are more reasons than ever lours. Make one or, better still, make this year to let your patriotism them all for a Canada Day celebraburn bright—150 to be exact! We’re tion. Sure, there are two desserts, but joining Canada’s sesquicentennial there are a lot of candles this year!

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Col of wit a sop as god as it is beautiful, or a swet-salty salad tat hits al te right notes.

CHILLED CURRY TOMATO SOUP WITH

Cashew Cream recipe on page 167

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WHIPPED FETA, WATERMELON &

Radish Salad recipe on page 165

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SEA BASS WITH SWEET & SOUR

Spanish Pepers recipe on page 166

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Savor te flakiest white fish and smoky pepers, ten oto te prize— a stuning cake of te swetest beries.

RASPBERRY UPSIDE-DOWN

Cake

recipe on page 166

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PHOTO COURTESY OF WICKANINNISH INN

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CANADA! With Canada named 2017’s Number One travel destination in the world, we thought Canadians too should check out our own hot spots—hence this roundup of must-stop destinations— renowned restaurants, hotels, shops and more. BY AM Y ROSEN

•

ILLUSTRATIONS BY EM ILIE SIM PSON

HOW LUCKY WE ARE to live in a country as cool as Canada! If you criss-cross this nation you can enjoy enough culinary experiences to fll three lifetimes. From Dungeness crab fresh of the boat in Tofno, B.C., to sugaring of during Sugar Festival at what may well be North America’s only urban sugar bush, in Ottawa’s Richelieu Park, to roasting s’mores over a campfre along the northern shores of Hudson Bay while watching polar bears lumber by. You can dine high (check out our Bucket List meals) and low (see our Must-Stops during your road trip) while delighting in the best local ingredients and the most wonderful places to stay. Canada’s chefs, cooks, bakers, winemakers, farmers, fshers, cheesemakers and chocolatiers are raring to go with confdence and creativity like never before (Hidden Gems alert!). Here is my best culinary advice for you: travel in Canada. Ditch your tickets to Europe or the United States and instead drive, take the train, a ferry, rent an RV, walk, run or fy. Check out Galiano Island of the B.C. coast, visit Chester, N.S., stop in at Dildo, Nfd., say hello to Halifax. There are seriously delicious things to eat from sea to shining sea. Here is our list of some of the best Canuck experiences in the land. Find out where to fnd them on page 172. But for now, let’s eat!

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Hiden Gems

What constitutes a hidden gem? For me, it’s the unassuming or out-of-the-way places brought to your attention by a knowledgeable friend. They’re memorable for their food and atmosphere or because they’ve brought something new to the scene. Secret no more, the inside scoop on how to eat like a local. 1

WHERE TO EAT

2 PORT CITY ROYAL, ST. JOHN It’s all about reimagined east coast classics on the frequently changing menu: classics such as Creton en Ploye (a pork-stufed buckwheat pancake) drizzled with molasses mayo, and amazing cocktails like the Salt Spray.

3 KING OF DONAIR, HALIFAX Since 1973 Halifax’s original hangover food has been dishing out warm pita stufed with shaved spiced beef, onions, tomatoes and a signature sweet and garlicky sauce. Don’t knock it till you’ve tried it. 4 SOBO, TOFINO What began as a wee trailer tucked into a gravel parking lot has grown into the restaurant for wholesome creativity like the Tofu Pocket with shiitake mushrooms, Killer Fish Tacos and seafood stew. M!

Ice Cream Dreams

Here’s how to do brain-freeze right in Canada. La Casa Gelato, Vancouver. Cow’s, Charlottetown. Bang Bang Icecream, Toronto. Slickers County Ice Cream, Bloomfield, Ont. La Diperie, Montreal. Bridge Drive-In - (BDI), Winnipeg. Ed’s Real Scoop, Toronto. Dee Dee’s, Halifax. Death in Venice, Toronto. Moo Moo’s Ice Cream, St. John’s. Chocolats Favoris, Quebec City.

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5 THE WHALESBONE, OTTAWA As much an oyster house as a full-on seafood spot—and that’s a good thing. The other good news is they serve 100 percent sustainable fsh and shellfsh, including Pacifc cod and chips and lobster rolls. 6 FOXLEY BISTRO, TORONTO This barebones bistro launched the hot Ossington restaurant strip, thanks to Chef Tom Thai’s imaginative takes on Far East favours. Sea Bream Ceviche with Yuzu and Shiso, and Side Ribs with Caramelized Shallot Glaze are standouts.

PHOTO COURTESY OF VIJ’S RAILWAY EXPRESS; PORT CITY ROYAL BY SCOTT MUNN AND JESSICA EMIN; SOBO BY JEREMY KORESKI

1 VIJ’S RAILWAY EXPRESS, VANCOUVER This exploration of Indian street food is a roaming journey (literally: it’s a food truck) into specialties of various regions, with a B.C. twist. Think spot prawns in coconut masala curry, and blueberry lassies.

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7 BABA’S HOMESTYLE PEROGIES, SASKATOON To say it’s unassuming is an understatement. But what you’ll fnd inside (if you don’t just hit the drivethrough—that’s right—drive-through perogies!), are handmade perogies, cabbage rolls and smoked sausages. 8 DIANA’S CUCINA & LOUNGE, WINNIPEG Owner Diana Cline is a fve-time International Canadian Pizza Award Winner, famous for her inspired pies like Big D’s Bodacious BLT and the Sweet ’n Spicy Divine Swine with BBQ pulled pork and cheese on a Moosehead beer crust.

GET BAKED Sweet (and savoury) treats to fuel your journey (and soul). The Pie Plate Bakery & Café’s fresh-from-the-tree peach pie. Virgil, Ont. Beaucoup Bakery & Café was inspired by Paris and feels (and tastes) just like it, from the Chocolate Almond Croissants to the Chausson aux Pommes. Vancouver. Sidewalk Citizen Artisan Bread & Bakery’s artisanal sourdough loaves, Sticky Buns and cheese-fuelled Burekas. Calgary. Too much greatness at Duchess Bake Shop, from the Macarons to the Eclairs and yes, Banana Cream Pie. Edmonton. You’ll want everything at Olive & Gourmando, but go for the chocolate brioche. Or the scones. Or the palmiers… Montreal. Gypsy’s Bakery & Restaurant serves fresh doughnuts, Nanaimo bars, pies, cinnamon rolls and outsized hot caramelglazed apple fritters that’ll knock your toque o°. Churchill, Man. Patrice Pâtissier is an exploration of tastes, textures and even temperatures. Best bets: Kouign Amann, Cannelé and petite lemon pots with chamomile and honey. Montreal. At Madelyn’s Diner, three words: Bacon Butter Tarts. Stratford, Ont.

The Pie Plate Bakery & Café, Virgil, Ont.

St. John’s Fish & Chips R˜

Climbing Freshwater Road in St. John’s, Nfld., past Ches’s Fish and Chips, a favourite “fee and chee” feed for over 50 years, walking up and beyond the for-mer home of Johnny’s Fish & Chips, you hit the corner at Cookstown Road and you’re there: Leo’s Fish ’n Chips Restaurant & Take-Out. My chipped plate arrives bearing a steaming heap of golden, handcut fries bathed in smooth brown gravy. The fish is buried beneath—all crisp, moist and flaky. The fish is cod—when a Newfoundlander says “fish,” cod is the default. The fact that there’s malt vinegar but no ketchup on the tables makes me inexplicably happy. “How is it?” asks the fry guy as he starts to clean up shop for close. “Great,” I say. And boy, do I ever mean it.

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Must-Stops

Do not pass go without checking out these unique restaurants whose chefs share the delicious tales of their towns, one plate at a time.

2 MAENAM, VANCOUVER ▼

1 R E B A R , V I C TO R I A

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Serving tofu and wheat grass years before it was fashionable, the restaurant may be most familiar for its circa-2001 iconic Rebar: Modern Food Cookbook. Today, the healthy vibrant cuisine is as charming as ever, from the classic almondveggie burger to my go-to, Huevos Rancheros.

With powerful, authentic favours you remember long after the last bite of Chef Angus An’s signature Green Papaya Salad, you’ll keep returning for original Vancouver takes, like 8 Spice Ling Cod with caramelized palm sugar and tamarind sauce. Deep into its frst decade, Maenam somehow keeps getting better.

3 K LO N D I K E K AT E ’ S , DAW S O N C I T Y Fitting right in with this gold rush town’s unpaved streets and historic buildings, the specialty is barbecue made with ingredients from the boreal forests that surround. There are plump blueberrystudded caribou sausages topped with spruce tip aïoli, and there’s gold in them thar Yukon steaks drizzled with birch syrup and herbs.

▼

4 C O R S O 3 2 , E D M O N TO N

Chef and owner Daniel Costa is dishing out seasonal plates of Italian goodness with high-end fnesse. There’s crispy seared Fried Short Ribs balanced by arugula and a cavatelli pasta with pork fennel sausage sugo. The food is pure and rich, especially a seared Northern Italian slab of Fried Taleggio, drizzled with local buckwheat honey and seasoned with a few turns of the pepper mill.

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REBAR, TOURISM VICTORIA; MAENAM BY HAMID ATTIE; CORSO 32, EDMONTON TOURISM; LITTLE GROUSE ON THE PRAIRIE BY BOB DEUTSCHER

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8 5

6 7

7 LA BANANE, TO R O N TO ▼

The striking disco-meetsfn-de-siècle room is an instant classic rooted in the French classics, where Chef Brandon Olsen showcases an icy raw bar, Duck Breast with Charred Endive and Jus, Pommes Aligot and Eurobass en Croûte with yuzu beurre blanc. The namesake bananas fnd their way into a justbaked Gâteau à la Banane for dessert.

You can go à la carte but the best way to enjoy Chef Jesse Zuber’s modern Italian is by dining alla famiglia. The menu changes weekly. Shared bowls and plates might include made-to-order tagliatelle with Saskatchewan chanterelles or crispy-skinned sea bass. And I’ve never had better risotto, anywhere. There’s also an excellent barrel-aged cocktail program by Christopher Cho.

8 S TA N L E Y LO B S T E R C O. LT D. , YA R M O U T H , N . S . Overlooking the Bay of Fundy, this wholesale and retail lobster pound is the perfect spot for a sunset supper. With access to more than 500,000 pounds of live lobster during the six-month season, you can order whatever size you think you can muster, roll up your sleeves, let clarifed butter dribble down your chin, and enjoy a steamed lobster that’s as fresh and sweet as this summer’s night.

6 R A E & J E R RY ’ S S T E A K H O U S E , W I N N I P E G

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LA BANANE BY LAURA RO S SI PHOTOGRAPHY; R AE & JERRY’S BY REBECCA SCHROEDER, RED PHOTO CO.

5 LITTLE GROUSE ON THE PRAIRIE, S A S K ATO O N ▼

The vintage red leather chairs, red carpeting, red wallpaper, that iconic roadside sign—that’s just a start. Sidle up to the bar and let one of the old-timers fx you an old-timey cocktail. Open since the city’s powerhouse era of the 1950s, it’s still as popular as ever, and I love that dinner starts with a choice of tomato juice or soup, moves on to sirloins and fnishes with coconut cream pie. You can eat like it’s yesteryear and like there’s no tomorrow. F OO D & DR I N K SUMMER 2017 91

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Bucket List

Here’s our hit list of can’t-miss CanCon experiences, where dreamy brunches and blissful dinners are par for the course, be it on a frozen river, in the woods, overlooking a lake or tucked into a downtown neighbourhood. This is event dining.

2 TOQUÉ! The godfather of modern Québécois cuisine, Chef Normand Laprise was doing local in Montreal circa 1993. Languid meals are food escapism into a world of Duck Magret, Venison Loin, Sweet Clover Pudding—and oh, the wines! 3 ATELIER Exquisite multi-course tasting menus by the molecular mind of Chef Marc Lepine, in the nation’s capital. Over three hours and 12 dishes later (with names like Polkaroo and Snow Globe), you won’t know what hit you.

1 2

4 RGE RD This Edmonton restaurant has a woodburning oven and an in-house butchery that doubles as a private dining room. The frequently changing menu has featured such delectables as wood-fred Brussels sprouts and tart fambé with creamy clams and pastrami—bizarrely delicious. 5 RAW: ALMOND Pop-up feasts on the frozen Red and Assiniboine rivers in Winnipeg. For 21 nights each year (sometimes at -21°C degrees) chefs from around the city and country cook up exquisite brunches and dinners for bundled-up guests. 6 LIGHTHOUSE PICNICS In Ferryland, Nfd., you can enjoy a picnic spot nonpareil harkening back to local “mug ups” in the woods, with changing items such as Crab Cakes and views of whales and icebergs with Fresh Strawberry-Rhubarb Fool for dessert. 7 EDULIS RESTAURANT Sunday lunches are a dreamy downtown Toronto escape fueled by bottles of wine and carte blanche menus that change daily and can run from lobster to porcinis and octopus cooked à la plancha. Black and white trufe seasons boast their own menus. 8 JOY ROAD CATERING Farm fresh feasts at an alfresco communal table overlooking Skaha Lake in Penticton, B.C. As the sun dips behind the hills, the table glows warmer and louder while wine glasses are reflled, plates are licked, and dusk turns to night.

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AU PIED DE COCHON SUGAR SHACK BY DAVID ZILBERMAN; TOQUÉ! BY HANS LAURENDEAU, SHOOT STUDIO; ATELIER BY MIV PHOTOGRAPHY

1 AU PIED DE COCHON SUGAR SHACK Martin Picard’s wild take on the cabane à sucre, just northwest of Montreal, is where appetites come to die. Salmon tartare, lobster, foie gras, omelettes, baloney, pig’s foot, boeuf Bourguignon, pudding chomeur and maple syrup everywhere!

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Tiple Time

Clayoquot Wilderness Retreat, Tofno, B.C.

PHOTO COURTESY OF CLAYOQUOT WILDERNESS RESORT; BAR RAVAL BY KAYLA ROCCA

STAY A WHILE These deluxe digs will have you wrestling with the idea of cozying up with a glass of wine by the freplace or enjoying the great outdoors. Thankfully, there are no wrong answers. Book a room at any of the following and you can drink, dine and sleep well while enjoying a sense of place: Inn at Bay Fortune, P.E.I. Fogo Island Inn, Nfd. Fairmont Pacifc Rim, Vancouver. Four Seasons Resort Whistler, B.C. Shobac Cottages, Lunenburg, N.S. Kingsbrae Arms, St. Andrews-by-theSea, N.B. Arowhon Pines in Algon-

quin, Ont. 124 on Queen Hotel & Spa, Niagara-on-the-Lake, Ont. Sooke Harbour House, Sooke, Vancouver Island, B.C. Wickaninnish Inn, Tofno, B.C. Pacifc Sands Beach Resort, Tofno, B.C. Drake Devonshire, Prince Edward County, Ont. Le Château Montebello, Montebello, Que. Auberge Saint-Antoine, Quebec City, Que. Post Hotel & Spa, Lake Louise, Alta. The Ritz-Carlton Montreal. Hotel Le St-James, Montreal. Clayoquot Wilderness Resort, Tofino, B.C. Four Seasons Toronto. Fairmont Chateau Laurier, Ottawa.

The Benjamin Bridge winery in Nova Scotia’s Gaspereau Valley has a growing region and season akin to Champagne, France. You can taste it in their stunning Brut Reserve. Walk the family-run orchards at The BX Press in Vernon, B.C., before tasting their incredible dry, off-dry, fruit-infused or barrel-aged ciders. Bar Raval, is like a Gaudi-inspired trip to Barcelona in Toronto’s Little Italy, where you stand shoulder-to-shoulder drinking sherry and eating Boquerones and likewise Pintxos. You’d be hard-pressed to find a more stunning setting than Mission Hill Family Estate in Kelowna, B.C., and their wines, especially the full-bodied reds that may be enjoyed during vineyard tours, are just as striking. For three weekends in January, Niagara celebrates extreme viticulture at the Niagara Icewine Festival, where you can elbow up to the twinkly ice bars while celebrating Canada’s liquid gold.

The new Canadian Clasics

Researching our culinary roots while carrying the torch for a reimagined food heritage tied to indigenous ingredients, these restaurants have dug deep. Think caramelized whey, pine ash, spruce syrup, haskaps, seaweed, smokehouses, open hearths and open hearts. And defnitely think about eating at any of these proudly Canadian spots: Canis, Boralia, Montgomery’s, Actinolite Restaurant, Loka (all in Toronto), Wolf in the Fog, (Tofno), Mallard Cottage, Raymonds (both in St. John’s).

Bar Raval, Toronto

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Clear

Choices BY JAME S CHAT TO & VICTORIA WALSH

•

PHOTOGRAPHY BY JAM ES TSE

With a wealth of new vodkas landing on LCBO shelves this summer, it’s a great time to throw a tasting party and experience the diferences— plus we’ve got perfectly suited nibbles to add to the festivities. HOW DO YOU TELL one vodka from another?

experience textures and aromatics, though it’s The best way is to taste them side by side, and interesting to chill a second bottle of one of them the best way to do that is with friends at a vodka in the freezer so you can compare it with its more tasting party. It’s easy to organize! Each person temperate self. Lastly, serve food. We’ve created brings a diferent vodka. Taste them from identi- some delectable snacks that work well with any cal glasses (tulip-shaped glasses are ideal). Pro- vodka. Then sit back, start tasting and feel your vide plenty of water, spit buckets and notepads. mind opening up. Vodkas aren’t all the same! Serve all the vodkas at room temperature to fully Vive les diférences!

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West-coast shrimp devilled eggs recipe on page 157

Canadian Vodkas

How to decide which vodkas to include in your tasting? There are so many to choose from! We picked 10 that all have something unique to say for themselves—fve from Canada and fve from the rest of the world. Traditionally, multiple distillations and fltration have been used to make vodka as pure as humanly possible, but the modern trend is towards character rather than neutrality, especially from small artisanal distilleries eager to showcase the qualities of the spirit’s main ingredient and also the place they come from. There has never been a more interesting time to be a vodka drinker.

BEATTIE’S FARM-CRAFTED VODKA

LCBO 446625, $35.45

Source: Potatoes from Ken Beattie’s farm in Alliston, Ont.—the same potatoes he grows for Lay’s potato chips. Distilled on site using the farm’s spring water, this is a very smooth, creamy, rich spirit with a hint of vanilla and caramel.

ICEBERG VODKA

LCBO 400754, $27.45

Source: Corn with water from harvested Atlantic icebergs. A Newfoundland spirit with the telltale sweetness of corn and a nose of vanilla and sweet citrus that leads to a clean, short finish. An excellent choice for a Bloody Caesar.

CRYSTAL HEAD VODKA

LCBO 267302, $60.15

Source: Corn. Dan Aykroyd owns the brand with the world’s most distinctive bottle. Also distilled in Newfoundland, it’s seamlessly silky with the sweet, full-bodied corn curling into a dry, warm fnish. Mix it or sip it straight up.

GEORGIAN BAY VODKA

LCBO 446559, $39.95

Horseradish rare-beef toasts recipe on page 156

Source: Barley. This rich, spicy Ontario star has such complexity—a swirl of fennel, citrus, sweet corn and pine that stands out in a cocktail and dazzles served straight. Medium-bodied, beautifully balanced vodka.

DILLON’S METHOD 95

LCBO 365544, $40.05

Source: Grapes from Niagara. Geoff Dillon makes this splendid spirit in Niagara. Its forward, floral, grapey nose is exceptionally aromatic—almost like a delicate grappa—and it all carries through to the favour. Try it after dinner, chilled. 96 F OO D & DR I N K SUMMER 2017

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What’s the difference? — invisible presence in a cocktail. There was a time when vodka was required to be as neutral a spirit as possible—an Now connoisseurs relish nuances of aroma, texture and taste, and big companies and craft distillers alike are happy to ’ where a vodka comes from, it’s ’ what was used to make it. If a grain, what kind or kinds oblige them. The big question isn’t ’ of grain? Spicy, peppery rye or sweet, full-bodied corn? Rich malted barley or sharper winter wheat? And it doesn’t stop there. Potato vodka has always had a following and now we have one made from quinoa. Spirits with grapes or milk ’ legally be called vodka in Canada, but you’ll ’ find our chosen examples in the vodka section of the store. as the base can’t

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Global Vodkas

Green onion & ricotta gougères recipe on page 156

Once upon a Martini time , vodka afcionados used to confine their arguments to the merits of Polish and Russian spirits. The world has now grown bigger, with frstclass vodkas coming from traditional gin countries such as England and the Netherlands, and from parts of France like Cognac and Bordeaux that may be better known for other drinks. Each one has a fascinating back story to be found on its website—fuel for discussion at your vodka tasting. Even without the extra dimensions of oak barrels and ageing that mean so much to brown spirits, there’s still plenty to talk about.

KETEL ONE

LCBO 456095, $35.15

Source: Wheat. This famous Dutch vodka is partly produced in pot stills, giving spirit of a slightly oily weight and a long, aromatic fnish. The earthy, sweet grainy aromas are mirrored in the palate. Great with tonic.

WYBOROWA WÓDKA LCBO 5363, $27.25

Source: Rye. Fabulous value, this complex Polish vodka has all the peppery, spicy prickle of rye—on the nose and on the palate. With its light, elegant texture and decent length, it’s a versatile solution to all your vodka needs.

Grilled radishes with caviar butter recipe on page 156

BLACK COW PURE MILK SPIRIT LCBO 486563, $50.20

Source: Pure cow’s milk whey, the by-product from a renowned cheese-making dairy farm in West Dorset, England. Creamy, full-bodied texture. Sweet vanilla suggestion on the fnish. Try it with scallops, sushi or even cheesecake!

CÎROC SPIRIT DRINK LCBO 417295, $50.20

Source: Grapes, fermented into wine in Bordeaux, France, then distilled fve times. Big aroma of Muscat grapes and citrus jumps out of the glass. Very smooth, very delicious—ideal for a very dry Martini.

FAIR QUINOA VODKA LCBO 486571, $49.95

Source: Grain and fair-trade Andean quinoa, distilled in Cognac, France. Very light, ethereal texture. It has a grassy, almost fruity quality that works beautifully with dry vermouth.

What’s the difference Part 2 It’s not just what it was made from: many other factors help make ’ unique profile. Was it up a vodka’s distilled in a pot still rather than a col-umn still? If so, it will probably have more aromatics and viscosity. How many times was it distilled and how was it filtered—through charcoal, or through crystals or lava rocks, quartz sand or mesh? Did it get an extra, sub-zero filtration like the

cleansing conducted at ––18°C that gives Stolichnaya Elit (LCBO 254631, $59.95) such a distinctive smooth weight? And what was the water used to dilute the spirit to bottle strength? Did it come from melting an iceberg or the more common practice of running an urban tap? So ’ true many variables to consider. It’s that the differences they make can be subtle—but vodka is a subtle drink.

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hot grill OFF THE

BY CHRISTOPHER ST. ONGE

PHOTOGRAPHY BY ROB FIOCCA

Breathe fresh life into your barbecue repertoire with new techniques and recipes—plus the latest trends that are worth a try. FOOD PLUS FIRE IS MAGIC. Who doesn’t

love the smell of smoke, and the charred bits of the rib rack? Or fipping burgers for friends while bathed in summer’s golden light, an icy beer in hand? Here at Food & Drink, if it’s worth eating we think it’s made better over fire in the great outdoors. Make this your most delicious summer yet with tasty new ideas and a few old ones reimagined. We’ve given the burger a steakhouse spin by adding ground rib steak, then paired it with a burger sauce you’ll want

to call your own. Don’t stir in the pickles though— they belong next to the patty to warm up, their vinegary bite as balancing act. Maybe you forgot how easy shellfsh was to grill or have always wanted to master jerk chicken, complete with the unmistakable whif of wood smoke. We cover all this and more, hoping to inspire you with fresh techniques and even a few unexpected ideas for the fre. Because it doesn’t matter much what you grill, just that you do, on repeat, all summer long.

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tips for shucking clams

In a large bowl, dilute 1 tbsp (15 mL) sea salt in 8 cups (2 L) cool water. Add clams and refrigerate for 2 hours to purge. Drain.

Arrange on a baking sheet and freeze for 2 hours. Remove and let stand at room temperature until clams begin to open.

Working with one clam at a time, use fngers to pry open clams. Fully detach clam from shell with a paring knife and return meat to one half shell. 102 F OO D & DR I N K SUMMER 2017

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shel lfish GRILLING PERFECTLY GRILLED burgers and chops bring all of the neighbours to the yard, but true grilling aficionados know there are few things better than shellfish cooked over fire. Shrimp, oysters, mussels and clams cook up fast and are easy to prepare. Lobster’s sweet flesh is undiluted by steam or water when grilled and is all the better for it. Shells provide protection from the fierce flames and trap sauce (or butter!) in the nooks and crannies. And their sweet flesh is a perfect foil for smoke. Almost all shellfsh beneft from high-heat grilling, meaning cooking time is short. Keep a watchful eye and look for the fesh to turn from translucent to

opaque—often in the matter of a couple minutes for smaller pieces. Have your side dishes ready and waiting before the shellfish hit the grill. Choose mild alderwood or apple if adding wood-smoking chips or chunks to your grill—despite the shorter cooking times, shellfish benefit greatly by the complex flavour compounds in smoke. Because it can be delicate, shellfsh begs to be treated simply. It often requires little more than a drizzle of olive oil or butter before grilling. Afterwards, layer favour with a citrusy vinaigrette and crumbs for crunch (as we’ve done with the clams), compound butters or just a squeeze of lemon and a pinch of Maldon salt.

GRILLED CLMS, CHILIES & BREAD CRUMBS recipe on page 151

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FLT-TOP PORTERHOUSE & SMOKY STEAK SAUCE recipe on page 152

CAST IRON GRILLING IT MIGHT SEEM a little strange to place a cast iron pan over your grill, but there are more reasons to do it than not. Flat-top grilling, known as a la plancha in Spain and Argentina where it’s common, offers increased contact with the cooking surface versus a grill. The result is a pleasing crust (as demonstrated by our steak recipe) and more complete browning of the food’s surface. And be-cause there are no grates to balance the food between, it’s ideal for grilling smaller pieces of food. The closed surface eliminates drip and flare-up that can cause unpleasant sooty flavours too. 104 F OO D & DR I N K SUMMER 2017

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CHARCOAL GRILLING

what to burn

lump charcoal The charcoal purist’s choice, it’s simply wood burned in the absence of oxygen. Easy to light, with the truest wood smoke favour.

charcoal briquettes Compressed wood chips and additives formed into evenly sized pieces. Should be burned until white before grilling food to avoid imparting unpleasant chemical favours.

DURING THE GAS GRILL’S golden age replacing charcoal braziers with grills that lit at the push of a button must have seemed the height of convenience. Trouble was, what was gained in ease was lost in favour. Flash-forward to today and our firtation with wood chips in an attempt to turn gas grills into charcoal ones is complete. What’s old is new and grilling fashion these days is decidedly low-f, a full-circle return to the charcoal grill. Because it can’t be dialed up and down in temperature like gas, it takes a little practice and a dose of intuition but, much like anything worth doing, practice makes perfect. Making a decent jerk chicken over gas is doable but reaches the sublime over hardwood lump charcoal. Its sweet, rich smoke favour is the secret ingredient giving full expression to the punchy, lip-smacking marinade.

JERK CHICKEN SANDWICHES

recipe on page 152

smoking chunks Use without soaking. Should be added to hot charcoal and left to burn until fame is extinguished and wood is smoking.

smoking chips Soak chips in water for 1 hour before use. Place in gas grill smoking box and follow the directions for using the box. F OO D & DR I N K SUMMER ˜°˛˝˙˛°ˆ

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ULTIMATE

burger

& SECRET SAUCE

THE PERFECT BURGER recipe on page 154

THE BEST BURGER is equal parts good food and junk food. It should taste like all of the great ones you’ve eaten—at diners, in your best pal’s backyard, and even that first fast-food burger you ate when you were five. And it should begin with the beef. Sure, a burger’s not a steak, but that doesn’t mean that it can’t cook up like one, and taste like one too. Visit a butcher and have them freshly grind up a steak and some chuck for you and that’s exactly what you get — a seriously beefy patty that you can cook up

medium-rare, with just the right amount of fat to keep things juicy. It’d be a crime to get too fancy with your toppings and hide that great beef. Stick with the classics and a killer burger sauce that does away with juggling bottles in favour of heaped spoonfuls of glory. Our secret sauce skews sweet but is balanced by a whack of glutamates, a.k.a. umami, courtesy of an unexpected ingredient. If your friends aren’t hovering before the burgers are ready, you’re probably following a different recipe.

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GRILLED PANELA WITH SALSA MORITA recipe on page 154 Cheese and salsa for the win! Make tacos with this fantastic grillable cheese and knockout salsa. The trick to the cheese is a super-hot grill and a four coating. It ensures it holds its shape and doesn’t stick.

SMOKED TOMATO & GRIDDLED PROVOLONE SANDWICHES recipe on page 153 This is the real deal—a match made in heaven. It’s a sandwich as good as any you’ve eaten. The smoked tomatoes are reminiscent of BBQ sauce but better, because they burst with juicy, smoky goodness with every gooey bite.

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BALSAMIC-STEWED PLUMS WITH GRILLED CAMEMBERT recipe on page 154

While your grill is warming up or cooling down, use it to make toast and warm up some Camembert. Serve with stewed plums for a company-worthy snack.

cheese ON THE BBQ 2017-05-15 4:39 PM

BLISTERED TOMATO & CORN SALAD WITH SALAMI VINAIGRETTE recipe on page 150

grilled salads IF YOU CAN EAT IT, you can grill it. Case in point—salads. Wilted greens with warm vinaigrettes have been around for years. Do one better this year by taking your heads of let tuce out to the grill. Lightly charring lettuce brings a welcome bitter ness and wilts the outside while the inside stays crisp. Compact, heavy heads work best. Think romaine, ra dicchio or little gems. Quarter them and be sure they’re washed and fully dry before hitting the grill—you

GRILLED ROMAINE WITH TOASTED CUMIN VINAIGRETTE

don’t want to steam them. An earthy dressing with toasted cumin seed brings out the best in lightly charred hearts of romaine. And while you’re at it, take ad vantage of the fre by toasting up some smoky croutons and grilling a few ears of corn (or virtually any other vegetable), and use these to build tomorrow’s tossed greens. Their firekissed flavour banishes the humdrum and makes salad exciting again.

DIY YAKITORI PARTY recipes begin on page 150

recipe on page 148

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yakitori PARTY

GET IN ON THE ACT, no matter how big your yard or balcony or neighborhood parkette. If you haven’t got room for a charcoal kettle or gas grill, chances are you’ve got somewhere to rest a tabletop grill. These have come a long way in recent years, exploding in popularity along with Korean grill-it-yourself restaurants. Choices range from the tried-and-true (think old-school hibachi) to cutting-edge (portable infrared!), hitting all price points along the way. What we like most about these pint-sized grills is their place in the middle of the table, meaning you can share the work of grilling dinner with your friends. Don’t sweat the imposition—it’s so much fun, no one will be the wiser that they’re working for their supper. Yakitori (little Japanese skewers of quick-cooking meats and vegetables lacquered with a salty sauce) make for an ideal DIY grilling party. Skewer everything ahead of time so guests don’t get their hands dirty, and let everyone go to town choosing their favourites. Serve a summery rice or tender Boston lettuce salad on the side, plop a bucket of iced beer on the table and let the good times roll.

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A PREMIUM TEQUILA TO CALL YOUR OWN.

2017 Beam Suntory ry Inc., Deerfield, Deerfeld, IL USA.

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FOOD FLAVOURS

the sy syrian TABLE

TRAY KIBBEH & SYRIAN SALAD recipes on page 168

To honour our newest neighbours, Food Editor, Lucy Waverman, spent time cooking with a Syrian family; the resulting dishes enrich the cultural mosaic that we are. BY LU CY WAVERMAN P H OTO G RAP HY BY R OB F I OCCA

When you enter a Syrian home the frst greeting is “Have you eaten?” Syrian food is about hospitality, family and friendship. A typical meal, usually served all together at room temperature, consists of mezes (small dishes), salads, a meat, stew (vegetable or meat) and a small sweet pastry at the end. ˇˇˇˇFamily matriarch Maryam Alkarem, and Muna Nozha, her daughter-in-law, who have been in Canada for a year, came to cook with me for this article through Newcomer Kitchen, a cooperative where people cook and sell their wares. They were wonderful cooks and warm, generous people. I˘learned that the infuences on Syrian food include Jewish, Armenian and Turkish cuisines because Syria was a stop on the Silk Road trade route. The staples in a Syrian pantry include basmati rice, chickpeas, lentils, bulgur, garlic and yogurt, while spices such as sumac, a lemony herb, and za’atar, a thyme mixture used as a fnishing spice, dried mint and a seven-spice mixture for meat are the predominant seasonings. Cooks take pride in their presentation and Syrian food is always beautifully decorated. The dishes we cooked that day, featured here, have a range of favours and textures that will make them all favourites in your kitchen. F OO D & DR I N K SUMMER ˜°˛˝˙˛˛˛

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FLAVOURS THE SYRIAN TABLE

A refreshing and easy dip similar to but lighter than baba ghanoush. Serve as a first course with pita, but for a Syrian meal it would be included with the other dishes. 6 cups (1.5 L) grated zucchini, about 4 medium zucchini 1 tsp (5 mL) salt 1 tbsp (15 mL) olive oil 1 tbsp (15 mL) chopped garlic ½ cup (125 mL) yogurt ¼ cup (60 mL) tahini ¼ cup (60 mL) lemon juice 1 tbsp (15 mL) chopped dried mint Salt and freshly ground pepper

GARNISH 1 tsp (5 mL) ground cumin 1 tbsp (15 mL) chopped fresh mint

1 Toss zucchini with salt. Transfer to a strainer and set over a bowl. Drain oˆ excess water for about 15 minutes. Pat dry. 2 Heat oil in a skillet over medium heat. Add zucchini and sauté until tender, about 3 minutes. Add garlic and cook until garlic is fragrant and zucchini is beginning to turn golden, about 7 minutes. Transfer to a bowl and cool completely. 3 Stir in yogurt, tahini, lemon juice and dried mint. Season to taste with salt and freshly

ground pepper. Heap into a bowl and garnish with cumin and fresh mint. Serves 6

W H AT TO S E RV E Tio Pepe Extra Dry Fino LCBO 231829, $17.95

Old Tomorrow Canadian Pale Ale LCBO 400853, 473 mL, $2.95

ZUCCHINI DIP

˜˜°˛ F OO D & DR I N K SUMMER °˝˜˙

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From our stunning vineyards in Marlborough, New Zealand, Sacred Hill has crafted a Sauvignon Blanc that tastes like adventure feels.

Now available at the LCBO - CSPC #489112 Please enjoy responsibly

FLAVOURS THE SYRIAN TABLE

SYRIAN LENTIL & PASTA STEW

This is my take on a traditional Syrian lentil and pasta stew. It is inspired by a dish I had at a Syrian dinner. There is much discussion at the Syrian table about whether this should have bulgur in it (both Muna and Maryam thought it should). If you wish to add it in with the lentils, then use a medium bulgur. 1 cup (250 mL) green lentils 4 cups (1 L) salted water 5 tbsp (75 mL) olive oil 4 cups (1 L) thinly sliced red onion ½ tsp (2 mL) salt 2 tbsp (30 mL) chopped garlic 1 cup (250 mL) chopped coriander leaves and stems 2 small pitas 1½ cups (375 mL) short dry pasta, such as vermicelli Salt and freshly ground pepper 2 tbsp (30 mL) pomegranate molasses 1 tbsp (15 mL) lemon juice ½ cup (125 mL) pomegranate seeds, or more to taste

1 Place lentils in pot and cover with 4 cups (1 L) salted water. Bring to a boil then reduce heat to simmer and cook about 25 minutes or until tender. Drain, reserving cooking water. 2 Heat 2 tbsp (30 mL) oil in a large nonstick pan over medium heat. Add onions, sprinkle with salt and fry until crispy, about 10 to 15ˇminutes. (If you do not have a big pan then do it in 2 batches.) Remove from pan and reserve. In same pan, add 1 tbsp (15 mL) oil; fry garlic until fragrant and just beginning to brown, about 30 seconds. Add coriander and fry until bright green, 30 more seconds. Remove garlic and coriander from pan and reserve. 3 Heat 1 more tbsp (15 mL) oil in same pan, add pitas and fry until golden, about 3 minutes per side. Crumble and reserve separately. 4 Add remaining 1 tbsp (15 mL) oil and add pasta. Fry until golden, about 2 minutes. Add the cooked lentils and half of cooked onions. Season well with salt and pepper.

5 Combine 1 cup (250 mL) reserved lentil cooking water with half of garlic-coriander mixture and all the pomegranate molasses and lemon juice. Stir to combine favours then add into lentil mixture. Cover and simmer together until pasta is tender, adding more lentil liquid and salt and pepper if needed, about 5 minutes. 6 Transfer mixture to serving dish and decorate in lines with remaining onions, garlic and coriander mixture, crumbled pita and pomegranate seeds. Serve lukewarm or at room temperature. Serves 6

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Konzelmann Pinot Noir VQA LCBO 200584, $13.95

˜˜°˛ F OO D & DR I N K SUMMER ˝˙˜ˆ

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DRINK BEER

SMALL-TOWN BY STEPHEN B EAUM ONT

NESTLED IN CHARMING TOWNS, ONTARIO’S SMALL INDEPENDENT BREWERIES MAKE GREAT DAY-TRIP DESTINATIONS—NOT JUST FOR THE TASTINGS AND TOURS, BUT FOR OTHER LOCAL HIGHLIGHTS, TOO!

PHOTO BY KRISTIE WOODS

With more than 200 operational brewing licences now in Ontario, the days when craft beer was an urban phenomenon are well behind us. Today, you’re as likely to fnd an exciting and inventive brewery in a small, rural town or midsized city as you are in a major metropolis, as is illustrated by these fve exceptional operations, of the beaten track but centre stage when it comes to their beer.

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BEER SMALL-TOWN BREWS

Rich gold in colour, Walkerville’s fagship Honest Lager (LCBO 407650, 473 mL, $2.75) is meant to pay homage to the beer that distiller Hiram Walker was said to want to produce when he opened the frst Walkerville Brewery in 1890. And in its bready, foral aroma and frmly malty, drying and bitter-fnishing body, it does just that!

NEW LIMBURG BREWING | SIMCOE As Ontario’s craft-brewing industry developed through the early 21st century, one area in which it lagged was that of Belgian-style beers, a fact immediately apparent to Jo Geven after he moved his family from Belgium to Simcoe in 2003, and also quite frustrating. Moved to begin home brewing with his son Mischa so that he could drink the beers he loved, Jo developed his hobby over time into a family business housed in a disused schoolhouse, with Mischa heading the brewing side, wife Yvonne designing labels and packaging, daughter Milou in the lab, and Jo in charge of management and sales.

LOCAL CULTURE MUST-SEE Nautical enthusiasts will want to visit the nearby Port Dover Harbour Museum, a treasure trove of memorabilia including artifacts salvaged from Lake Erie shipwrecks and exhibits on Prohibition-era rum running. 12 Harbour St, Port Dover.

Cloudy gold with a spicy, floral, faintly herbal aroma, New Limburg’s Belgian Blond (LCBO 480608, 500 mL, $3.90) is, like many of the brewery’s other ales, defned by its peppery yeastiness, with a fruity spice upfront and a more reserved, white peppery and herbal second half and lightly bitter fnish.

When the brewery tenant in his 100-year-old former Hiram Walker warehouse fnally succumbed to financial pressures after over a decade in business, landlord Mike Brkovich found himself reluctant to say goodbye. So instead of seeing what had become a bit of a community institution broken up and shipped away, he arranged to buy and resuscitate the Walkerville Brewery. “For me, the brewery is more than just somewhere we make beer,” explains Brkovich. “It’s a community space where we can support and liaise with community groups.” And if that networking happens over a pint of two of the brewery’s beer, well, so much the better!

LOCAL CULTURE MUST-SEE For a novel art experience, visit the museum without walls that is the Windsor Sculpture Park, stretching along the Detroit River for more than 2.5 kilometres and home to 31 stunning, large-scale works. Between Huron Church Road and Church Street, Windsor.

NEW LIMBURG PHOTO BY YVONNE MOONEN; DANCING BEAR BY PAUTA SAILA; PHOTO BY CHRISTOPHER LAWRENCE-MENARD

WALKERVILLE BREWERY | WINDSOR

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LE GRAND FIZZ.

An elegant and refreshing blend of Grey Goose® Vodka, St-Germain® Elderflower Liqueur, soda water and lime.

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BEER SMALL-TOWN BREWS

Fashioned after the famed kölsch beers of Cologne, Germany, Cowbell’s Absent Landlord (LCBO 469981, 473 mL, $2.95) has a sweetly fruity nose and rich but lean maltiness with peppery notes on the fnish, giving it both the fortitude to stand up to Ontario winters and the refreshing character necessary for the province’s hot and humid summers.

COWBELL BREWING | BLYTH One of the only annual theatre events to feature exclusively Canadian content, the Blyth Festival celebrates its 42nd season this summer with three world premieres and a play by celebrated native playwright Drew Hayden Taylor. A highlight of the summer season is the Bonanza weekend during which all four productions are shown over three days from August 18 to 20. 423 Queen St., Blyth, Ont. Also in August is the Celtic Roots Festival in nearby Goderich, Ont., celebrating the music, craft and culture of the Celtic nations over three days from August 11 to 13. Locations vary; see celticfestival.ca for more information.

As Steven Sparling tells it, his father received a tremendous amount of support from the local community when he frst opened his hardware store in Blyth, Ont., in 1950, support he was anxious to return once he had developed his small shop into a signifcant propane business. Now the co-founder of Cowbell Brewing with his son Grant, Steven is determined to continue that legacy of giving back to the region. Which is why, for example, Cowbell was planned from Day One to be a destination brewery—slated to open this summer—rather than simply a beer production factory. With a restaurant and expansive patio—Mil’s Veranda, named for Sparling’s mother, Mildred—parking and seating for busloads, it has, of course a shiny, tour-worthy brewery and a retail shop. It is also why father and son have built social responsibility into their new business, with the goal of having North America’s frst carbon-neutral brewery and a Greener Pastures initiative that sees a nickel from every pint or can of Cowbell beer sold donated to local community and charitable organizations. And it’s also in keeping with what Steven describes as his brewery’s mission statement: “The world doesn’t need another brewery,” he says. “So if we’re going to do this, we’d better be doing something diferent.”

BLYTH FESTIVAL PHOTO BY TERRY MANZO; COWBELL BREWING PHOTO BY FAUXPOP

LOCAL CULTURE MUST-SEE

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MAPLE & ORANGE GLAZED BABY BACK RIBS

Ingredients 3 racks (about 4 lb/2 kg) of Ontario pork back ribs, cut in 4-rib pieces 1 Tbsp (15 mL) fresh ginger, minced 2 cloves garlic, minced 1/4 cup (60 mL) orange juice 1 Tbsp (15 mL) orange zest

3 Close bag securely and marinate in refrigerator for 2-6 hours.

1 Tbsp (15 mL) balsamic vinegar 1/2 tsp (2 mL) red pepper ﬂakes 1/4 cup (60 mL) soy sauce 1/4 cup (60 mL) maple syrup 3/4 cup (175 mL) beef broth

4 Preheat oven to 325 F (160 C). Place ribs in a single layer in a baking dish, meaty side up; pour marinade over top. Cover with foil and bake in oven for about 1 hour.

Directions 1 Using a fork, lift the membrane from a corner of the rib bones on the under side, and gently peel it away from the ribs and discard.

5 Remove ribs from oven and allow them to cool. Place in refrigerator until ready to grill. Pour liquid from marinade into a small saucepan. Reduce over medium-high heat for 30-40 minutes until sauce thickens.

2 In a large food-safe plastic bag, place all ingredients except ribs; mix well. Add ribs and turn to coat.

6 Preheat grill to medium. Remove ribs from refrigerator and brush generously with sauce before grilling. Place ribs on grill and cook until browned and heated through, about 15-20 minutes. 7 Cut ribs apart. Brush with more sauce if desired. Enjoy!

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BEER SMALL-TOWN BREWS

Deep russet-brown in colour, Kilannan Alt (LCBO 370296, 473 mL, $3.00) has a distinct and appealing earthiness to its aroma, which harkens to the beer style’s origins in northern Germany. The parallels continue with a gently sweet and leafy start, appetizing and faintly roasty middle, and quenching of-dry fnish.

MACLEAN’S ALES | HANOVER If you have spent any time at all drinking craft beer in Ontario, it is likely that you have tried at least one or two of Charles MacLean’s brews. A co-founder of the pioneering Wellington County Brewery, MacLean was also in on the ground foor at the F&M Brewery, now StoneHammer Brewing, as well as consulting for almost a dozen other brewing operations along the way. In 2009, MacLean retreated to his farm and established a small sole proprietorship but soon realized that demand was greater than what his small brewery could supply. Hanover beckoned, so with loyal customers as investors, MacLean moved his brewing operation to a new community that welcomed the arrival of a hometown beer brand with great enthusiasm.

LOCAL CULTURE MUST-SEE While it might lack the excitement of harness racing at the nearby Hanover Raceway, there is a soothing, summery feel to watching a double bill from your car at the Hanover Drive-In. 033277 Grey Rd. 28 (Drive-In Road), Hanover, Ont.

MacLean started brewing his Pale Ale (LCBO 464081, 473 mL, $2.90) in 1993, so it’s hardly surprising that he seems to have got it right. Copper-coloured with a spicy, leafy aroma that stands in contrast to today’s bevy of citrus-hued beers, it has a balanced, tofee-ish body with tannic notes and a bone-dry fnish.

After Spencer Wareham left Owen Sound, Ont., to attend brewing schools in Chicago and Munich, he did something very unusual; he returned to the city where he spent his formative teenage years. “A lot of young people leave Owen Sound to go to school and never come back,” explains Wareham, “So I think it meant a lot that this 23-year-old kid returned to open up a brewery.” Which is not to say that success was immediate for Wareham, since he still had to convince the locals that his German-style beers were worth spending money on. But with the drink-local factor on his side, he says, his neighbours eventually developed enough interest to give his beers a try, and before long found themselves enjoying them.

LOCAL CULTURE MUST-SEE Group of Seven devotees won’t want to miss the Tom Thomson Art Gallery, founded in Canada’s centennial year and home to one of the country’s largest collections of Thomson art. 840 First Avenue West, Owen Sound, Ont.

MACLEAN’S ALES PHOTO BY KRISTIE WOODS; CANOE LAKE BY TOM THOMSON; PHOTO BY MICHELLE WILSON

KILANNAN BREWING | OWEN SOUND

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FOOD STAPLES

CANADIAN

C˜SSICS

TEN ICONIC CANADIAN FOODS AND THE STORIES BEHIND THEM — ALONG WITH A HANDFUL OF EXEMPLARY RECIPES. BY ELIZAB ETH BAIRD PHOTOGRAPHY BY JA ME S TS E

BUTTER TARTS recipe on page 146

BUTTER TARTS “One cup of sugar, 1⁄2 cup of butter, 2 eggs, 1 cup currants; mix. Fill tarts and bake. Mrs. Malcolm MacLeod.” This two-line recipe is thought to be the frst printed recipe for what we now call butter tarts. Together with its title, simply, “Filling for tarts,” it appeared in the Women’s Auxiliary of the Royal Victoria Hospital Cook Book, a 1900 fundraiser for the Barrie, Ont., hospital. Mrs. MacLeod didn’t o˛er plain, raisin or pecan as picky modern butter tart lovers demand. She couldn’t have predicted the many di˛erent versions of butter tarts Canadian bakers have devised—coconut, bacon bits, cranberries, blueberries and chèvre, raspberry jam, peanut butter, apple and cinnamon, candied ginger, peaches and pumpkin. Nor could she have envisaged that her tarts would become a Canadian icon boasting a self-directed butter tart trail north of Guelph, a 50-stop butter tart tour that winds through the Kawarthas and Northumberland County, and in Midland, Ontario’s Best Butter Tart Festival, where 120 bakers, professional and amateur, vie to be top butter tart baker. Now in its ffth year, the festival draws some 50,000 fans who have dibs on the 150,000 butter tarts for sale from vendors lining King Street. Although the frst butter tart recipe was sweetened with sugar, recipes like ours, which include maple syrup or corn syrup, became very popular. Syrup made for a runnier butter tart—for some the pinnacle of butter tart perfection. F OO D & DR I N K SUMMER ˜°˛˝˙˛˜ˆ

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STAPLES CANADIAN CLASSICS

POUTINE Like it or leave it, poutine is us. Its parts—fries, gravy and cheese curds — all existed in diner/café cuisine, but when and how the threesome got together is disputed. Some believe it happened in the late 1950s at the Cafe Ideal in Warwick, Que.; others support Drummonville’s Jean-Paul Roy, self-proclaimed “l’inventeur de la potion” a decade later. But, once launched, poutine took o˜, invading every main street, mall and truck stop in Canada. It’s cheap and flling but can go upscale—the Canadian Embassy in Washington’s Trump Inauguration buffet featured a poutine station. While poutine, a “mess” in Quebec slang, looks simple, the deliciousness is in the details. Quebec is a dairying province, and fresh cheese curds, the iconic Quebec snack, are sold everywhere. Curds, not grated cheese! No matter how fancy-pants the chef may be, it’s curds, and they must be squeaky, i.e. not older than a day. Shipped-from-away curds? Non. The gravy, chicken or beef has to be hot enough to soften but not melt the curds, and the frites must keep their crunch, in spite of the gravy.

SALT COD CAKES recipe on page 147

SALMON Six di˜erent species of Pacifc salmon—chinook, coho, sockeye, steelhead, pink and chum—and one Atlantic have nourished First Nations for millennia, a fresh feast in the summer and fall runs, and wind- and sun-dried for winter. Poached whole salmon has long been the pièce de résistance at fancy receptions; canned, it anchors tea parties and school lunches alike. Cold smoked salmon remains an upper crust canapé and a faithful companion to bagels with cream cheese. To cook salmon in a West Coast First Nations’ method, split the salmon along the backbone, gut it and rub it with salt and sugar. Thread it onto a sturdy stick; weave thin sticks across the salmon to hold it open. Press the stick into the ground with the salmon facing burning coals. Roast until it takes on crisp caramelized edges and a woodsy smokiness.

COD The cod fshery in Canada has a long history, going back over a millennium to Vikings, then Basque fshers who caught and salted their catch before North America was oÿcially “discovered.” Everywhere salt cod was fshed or traded, it left its mark. It’s the prized Christmas Eve fare in Portugal, Spain and Italy, and the memory of salt cod lives on in Jamaica’s national dish, ackee and salt fsh. And certainly on the table of Canadians, notably along the Atlantic coast, cod was always king, the main ingredient in many colourful dishes. Take fried cod tongues—just what they are. Fish soup made with cod heads. Fish and chips served to the post-pub crowd with a side dish of dressing made of bread and onions, à la roast turkey. Cod au gratin—fresh fllets covered in a cheddar cream sauce, baked and crisped under the broiler. Fish and brewis—salt cod soaked to remove the salt, combined with softened hard tack and a generous topping of diced and crispy fried salt-pork scrunchions. No part of the fsh was wasted. Thrifty cooks took advantage of leftover cod and potatoes, mixed in an egg, and formed the mixture into cod cakes—a fne supper and an excellent breakfast.

˜°˛˝ F OO D & DR I N K SUMMER °˙˜ˆ

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McManis Zinfandel has a strength of character that speaks for itself but it doesn t have to, because everyone who

Remarkable.

tries it is spreading the word. Bring a bottle home and call your friends.

What do you say? AVA I L A B L E I N V I N TA G E S AT T H E L C B O R E P R E S E N T E D I N O N TA R I O B Y T H E V I N E

T H E V I N E A G E N C Y. C A

P L E A S E E N J O Y R E S P O N S I B LY

STAPLES CANADIAN CLASSICS

PEAMEAL BACON

MAPLE MUSTARD-GLAZED PEAMEAL BACON BARBECUE ROAST recipe on page 146

MAPLE If you ask anyone what’s the most Canadian food, the answer is bound to be maple syrup. Maple is so much part of our symbolism — the flag, “The Maple Leaf Forever,” the hockey team… In the maple belt (what’s now Ontario, Quebec, New Brunswick and Nova Scotia), First Nations watched for the sugar moon, the start of maple season, and gathered to celebrate, collecting sap into birchbark containers and reducing it to syrup and sugar in clay vessels. Aside from today’s usual products—syrup and sugar—there’s tire à l’érable, or maple ta˜y, beloved in Quebec’s cabanes à sucre (sugar shacks). Commercial sugar shacks in other provinces, notably Nova Scotia, New Brunswick and Ontario, are now catching on. It’s so easy to create this crowd pleaser—all you need is fresh clean snow packed down into troughs or pans, wooden sticks (tongue depressors will do fne) and maple syrup. On-site dentist optional.

Peameal bacon is an Ontario thing. True, in recent years globalization has made it available in other provinces, and its distinctively salty-sweet taste has also encouraged visitors from the U.S. to take it home for a Canadian treat. Peameal bacon starts as boned pork loin, trimmed of all but a thin layer of fat, and wet-cured in a salt and sweet brine. Unlike ham or side bacon strips, it is not smoked, so to give the meat longer shelf life, butchers roll the cured loin in corn meal (up to the end of the Second World War, it was rolled in crushed yellow peas, hence the name). This coating wicks up the moisture and gives peameal bacon its distinctive look and texture. Credit for popularizing this method of curing pork goes to the entrepreneurial English-born Toronto meat curer and butcher, William Davies. Starting in Toronto’s St. Lawrence Market selling his cured hams and bacon, he took advantage of the late-19th-century British demand for bacon, and made a fortune selling a superior leaner pork to Britain. Of late, peameal bacon has earned the reputation as the signature dish of the St. Lawrence Market, where shoppers line up at Carousel Bakery for a stack of griddled peameal doused with honey mustard and tucked into a soft kaiser bun. At the market, and increasingly in supermarkets, peameal bacon is available as a roast. The 2-lb (1-kg) size called for in our recipe is easy to cook on the grill or in the oven and slices easily with a mustard and maple glaze—ideal for your celebration of peameal bacon.

TOURTIÈRE There’s more to tourtière, Quebec’s Christmas Eve dish, than pork and flaky pastry. Named for the vessel in which it bakes, tourtière comes in di˜erent regional styles. In Montreal, tourtière tends to mean ground pork, sometimes beef or veal as well, seasoned with savoury (eastern Canada’s signature herb) and always sweet spices, cinnamon and cloves, plus, at times, nutmeg. The thickener that binds the meat, making the pie easy to cut, varies—maybe mashed potatoes, bread crumbs or, revealing past Scottish infuence, rolled oats. Heading to the Lac St. Jean-Saguenay region, tourtière gets heartier. Cubed meat, onions and potatoes are conveniently sold in supermarkets, to be layered deep-dish-style in a pastry-lined casserole. There’s chicken in the mix, and often game; it’s rich and needs a tart-sweet condiment: pickled beets are popular, as is ketchup aux fruits, a chunky chili sauce with peaches and pears.

˜°˛˝ F OO D & DR I N K SUMMER °˙˜ˆ

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SAME DRY TASTE, REFRESHING NEW LOOK.

Must be legal drinking age. Please enjoy Strongbow Apple Ciders responsibly.

STAPLES CANADIAN CLASSICS

CORN

CANADA DAY STRAWBERRY SHORTCAKE recipe on page 144

PRESERVES Preserves once meant survival. Eastern First Nations made sagamité, a mix of dried hominy corn and animal fat, easy to convert into a nutritious stew. In the West, they had pemmican, a nutritious convenience food of dried bu˜alo, berries and fat. To prepare for winter, Canada has taken advantage of every preserving technique: salting fsh, pork and beef; smoking hams; fermenting cabbages into sauerkraut; canning peaches and tomatoes; pickling beets and eggs; and jamming fresh berries. Thanks to modern freezers, we no longer need to preserve the harvest to survive. But many Canadians continue to make their grandmother’s garlicky chutneys or enjoy a corned beef sandwich. Strawberries also preserve well, and I’m not the first Canadian to encourage Ottawa to proclaim Strawberry Shortcake as Canada’s National Dessert. It’s perfect! Not only is it red and white, but strawberries are in season on our national holiday. And they have a long history— from First Nations festivals honouring “the leader of the berries” to strawberry socials, bringing communities together from Victorian times until today. True strawberry shortcake is made with fresh baking powder biscuits and combines whipped cream and berries, whole and crushed. But in this recipe, to celebrate Canada’s prowess in preserving, the strawberries are preserved in an old-fashioned Platter Strawberry Jam.

Corn is the gift of Mexican development thousands of years ago, grown in our part of North America a good half millennium before Europeans arrived, and an honoured part of the Three Sisters (corn, beans and squash) of First Nations agriculture. Canadians love corn, but eating it on the cob breaks the rules of fne dining. In Through Cities and Prairie Lands: Sketches of an American Tour, novelist and travel writer Lady Du˜us Hardy described fellow passengers steaming up the St. Lawrence River in 1881. At the captain’s table, noticing a dish of corn cobs “looking white and tempting,” she asks for a small piece. Flummoxed about how to proceed, she glances at her neighbours: “Every one is holding a cob with his two hands, and, beginning at one end, nibbles along as though he were playing a fute till he gets to the other. I don’t think is worth the trouble of eating, though is considered a great dainty on this side of the Atlantic.” Well, Canadians have paid no heed. Corn is summer—barbecued and boiled, as street food with lime and chili, as tamales, porridge, polenta, fritters and chowder, salads, cornbread, muffns, relishes and festival food. And we still pick it up in our hands and nibble from one end to the other.

WILD RICE Wild rice is a uniquely North American crop and, like corn, salmon and maple, an essential source of the First Nations diet and culture. With its nutty taste, it has long been a Canadian delicacy, an elite crop, but bringing wild rice from its traditional habitat, the still waters of the Great Lakes region, to your plate has always been hard work. Gathering it is “a tedious process” in the words of Catherine Parr Traill in The Canadian Settler’s Guide, published in 1855, especially since wild rice doesn’t ripen all at the same time. The time-honoured method was to bend the wild rice over the gunwales of canoes while crisscrossing rice beds and to tap the kernels into the canoes. Drying, then parching and pounding to remove hulls, followed. Harvesting is now mechanized. Air boats scoop up the kernels into catch trays as they skim the rice beds, and the rice is mechanically dried and threshed. Look for long slender shiny kernels and reward yourself with a taste of Canada.

˜°˛˝ F OO D & DR I N K SUMMER ˙˛˜ˆ

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2017-05-25 12:12 PM

Cool it! DRINK SEASONAL

Take the guesswork out of what to pack in your cooler for a day or weekend away; our four lists each contain a unique mix of drinks all designed to satisfy a wide range of tastes.

Summer days outdoors are fuelled by rounds of volleyball, golf or swimming, followed by cool, refreshing beverages. These themed assortments of hot new summer drinks will fll your cooler with choices, from beer and cider to ready-to-drink libations and trendy wine in cans. Plus, we ofer some simple recipes for batched, pre-bottled cocktails and tips for packing your cooler (see page 157). BY C HARLENE ROOKE P HOTOGRAPHY BY VINCE NOGUCHI

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SEASONAL COOL IT!

Canadiana

As Canada commemorates its 150th anniversary of Confederation, a new selection of special beverages—from retro -packaged beers and “hard” sodas to cocktails and ciders made with uniquely Canadian ingredients—helps you celebrate in style. Whether it’s a fresh spin on an old national-treasure drink or an entirely innovative bevvy, this new generation of Canadian tastes will satisfy thirsts all summer long.

MOLSON CANADIAN STUBBIES LCBO 493965, 6 pk, $12.95

Iconic, hoser-classic stout brown bottles, a 1960s tradition, are back for Canada’s anniversary summer. The liquid inside is the same golden lager beloved by generations.

MOTT’S CLAMATO PICKLED CAESAR LCBO 491324, 458 mL, $2.90

Mott’s adds a seasonal twist to Canada’s cocktail, giving the Calgary-born Caesar a nicely mouth-puckering tang. Garnish

Crafty Rye & Ginger

with a pickled bean or asparagus spear.

ORIGIN SPARKLING WINE VQA LCBO 470047, 3 pk, $17.95

Between the Lines Winery in Niagara brings Vidal grapes and delicate efervesence to this canned VQA sparkling wine. It’s aromatic with citrus and stone fruit, nicely sweet but crisp when served chilled. The slim gold-and-white can makes a perfect single serving or a lively mixer to use in spritzers or sparkling cocktails.

Peel and thinly slice 1 cup (250 mL) ginger. Boil with 1 cup (250 mL) sugar and 2 cups (500 mL) water in a saucepan; simmer for 1 hour, until thickened. Strain and cool. In a 750-mL glass bottle, mix 1 3⁄4 cups (425 mL) rye and 1 1⁄4 cups (310 mL) ginger syrup. To serve; gently shake, pour 2 oz over ice, top with club soda and stir. Makes 12 drinks.

BAR CHEF Dip the strained ginger slices in granulated sugar, then dry on a rack overnight to make candied ginger. Store in an airtight container in the refrigerator for up to two weeks.

MONTY’S AGED RYED ALE LCBO 498691, 473 mL, $3.25

A new classic from Toronto’s Old Tomorrow brewery, Monty’s Aged Ryed Ale gets its spicy and smooth fnish from rye whisky barrels. It’s named after a classic Canadian moment in sports: skeleton racer (and Amazing Race Canada host) Jon Montgomery’s post-gold-medal beer-chug at the 2010 Vancouver Olympics. 134 F OO D & DR I N K SUMMER 2017

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A COLLECTION OF PREMIUM BEERS

150 YEARS IN THE MAKING

SEASONAL COOL IT!

Savoury

For every fan of coolers and ciders, you might know an imbiber who fnds them a bit too fruity or sweet. For every quafer of light lagers and pilsners, there is bound to be a beer snob who prefers more taste and substance to their brew. Just for them: summer drinks with uniquely robust favours, plus a surprisingly sour-sweet berry cocktail. CABANA COAST MOSCOW MULE LCBO 491746, 473 mL, $3.30

Even a pro mixologist would be hard-pressed to criticize the perfect balance of Cabana Coast’s vodka, spicy ginger and lime cocktail classic.

BIG HOUSE THE SIREN VIN ROSE LCBO 486431, 250 mL, $3.95

The California makers of the colourful, slim-can wines introduce a flavourful rosé this season that pairs with almost any summer nosh. But don’t forget the Big House Cardinal Zin (LCBO

444760, 250 mL, $3.95), a big, ruby-coloured but smooth red wine that, when lightly chilled, expresses spicy and herbaceous notes.

NICKEL BROOK CERES CUCUMBER LIME GOSE LCBO 499111, 375 mL, $4.50

In the tart style of a traditional German weissbier, Burlington’s innovative Nickel Brook Brewing Co. presents a fzzy corianderscented, straw-coloured brew that’s as refreshing as a summer salad. If you like Hendrick’s Gin (LCBO 637504, $49.95) you’ll love the similar favour profle of this distinctive beer.

Boil 3⁄4 cup (175 mL) sugar and 1⁄2 cup (125 mL) water in a saucepan. Add 4 cups (1 L) blackberries. Simmer for 10 minutes, strain and cool. In a 750-mL glass bottle mix 1 1⁄2 cups (375 mL) blackberry syrup, 6 oz white balsamic vinegar and 3 oz lemon juice. Chill. To serve, shake thoroughly. Pour 1 1⁄2 oz vodka and 2 oz shrub over ice; top with sparkling water. Garnish with fresh mint or rosemary. Makes 10 drinks.

BAR CHEF After straining the syrup, reserve the cooked blackberries for use as an ice-cream topping, pie or tart filling, or spoon over pancakes or waffles.

Blackberry Shrub

ERNEST CIDER RUBEE LCBO 499038, 473 mL, $3.35

From a cidery near Newmarket, this traditionally made, lightly sparkling tipple gets its gorgeous coral colour from Ontario cranberries and cherries. The counterpart to the tart favour created by the slow-fermenting of seven types of local apples is achieved by adding just enough local wildflower honey to make it go down smoothly. 136 F OO D & DR I N K SUMMER 2017

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I know all the Spanish I need: “Sangria, por favor!”

Try

A refreshingly fruity twist on wine

Pinot Grigio Sangria 750mL Save $1.00 NOW ONLY $8.95

Red Sangria 750mL $9.95

Offer valid July 17th – August 13th LCBO #486001

LCBO #485995

/XOXOWine Please enjoy responsibly.

XOXO Sangria!

/XOXOWines

SEASONAL COOL IT!

Tropical

Be warmed by island-inspired favours this summer, including this suite of tropically inspired drinks that helps set the mood for lolling in the sun. Beer and cider take on atypically tropical fruit favours. A classic island cocktail gets captured in a can and a tiki-standard cocktail gets a lightened-up makeover from thirst-quenching coconut water. Each drink conjures an exotic getaway. REFINED FOOL ILLITERATE LIBRARIANS GRAPEFRUIT IPA LCBO 464834, 650 mL, $6.95

It’s possible to imagine, in the earliest days of India Pale Ale, a grateful British imbiber in the Asian subcontinent squeezing a shot of native grapefruit juice into a long-journeyed brew. The Sarnia-based Refned Fool brewery that produces this creative IPA brings as much innovation to the clever names and labels as it does to the beer.

GOSLING’S DARK ’N STORMY LCBO 491209, 4 pk, $10.95

A real Dark & Stormy can only be made with Gosling’s Black

Seal Rum (LCBO 367672, 750 mL, $27.85); the Bermuda brand trademarked the drink! This blend of Gosling’s own rum and Stormy Ginger Beer toasted the 35th America’s Cup in Bermuda in June. Try it with a squeeze of fresh lime.

LIQUID BULLION SAUVIGNON BLANC LCBO 493296, 250 mL, $4.95

With a name that’s worthy of an overfowing chest full of pirate’s booty, this Australian white wine has a typically Sauvignon Blanc flavour profile, rich with tropical fruitiness like passion fruit and citrus. Plucking one of these cans from an icy cooler is the equivalent of fnding buried underwater treasure.

Light Pina Colada

Skip the heaviness (and calories) of this drink’s traditional inclusion of coconut cream. Mix 1 1⁄2 cups (375 mL) pineapple juice with 6 oz white rum and 6 oz coconut water in a 750-mL glass bottle. Chill. To serve, shake and pour 4 oz over ice; garnish with fresh pineapple and/ or a maraschino cherry. Makes 6 drinks.

BRICKWORKS STADIUM ISLAND PEACH CIDER LCBO 478495, 473 mL, $3.40

Named for another island (Toronto Island, home to Hanlan’s Point Stadium), this dry, super-refreshing cider has a peachy taste balanced by apple-tartness. It was at Hanlan’s that baseball legend Babe Ruth hit his frst professional home run, knocking the neverrecovered ball into Lake Ontario: something to dive for on your next excursion.

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E H T F O THE LIFE

! A E T PAR ELICIOU S D! 6 PACK CAN NOW AVAILABLE!

SEASONAL COOL IT!

Citrus

Summer is synonymous with cold lemonade, frozen Creamsicles and other fresh citrusy treats. Whether you’re thirsting for a squeeze of lemon, lime, grapefruit or orange favour, these highly portable beverages deliver fresh bursts of citrus that reinvent familiar drinks. Any icy-cold summer pick-me-up straight from the cooler benefts from a just-squeezed wedge of your favourite citrus fruit. DUSTY BOOTS HARD ORANGE CREAM LCBO 491670, 6 pk, $14.95

The makers of the supremely quafable malt & spirit-based Dusty Boots Hard Root Beer (LCBO 447904, 6 pk, $14.95) are canning their way to success this summer, with new Cherry Cola (LCBO 491688, 6 pk, $14.95) and Orange Cream “hard” sodas.

SOMERSBY ELDERFLOWER LIME FLAVOURED CIDER LCBO 454975, 500 mL, $3.40

Aromatic elderflower is the special ingredient that makes St-Germain Elderfower Liqueur (LCBO 180695, $49.95) a bar-

tender’s secret weapon. It gives a wildfower nose to this applecrisp, pale-golden cider, with a squirt of citrus and carbonation that makes it dance on the palate. A wheel of fresh lime is the ideal garnish.

JOIY LCBO 486456, 250 mL, $4.85

This fairy tale of a sparkling Reisling from New Zealand comes in whimsical mid-summery cans adorned with kiwi fora and fauna. Its packaging is reminiscent of picnic-style entertaining, and the wine delivers a burst of citrusfresh flavour that’s great on its own and makes a lovely complement to the spritz below.

Add 1 1⁄4 cups (310 mL) Lillet Blanc (VINTAGES 322297, $18.45) and 1 1⁄4 cups (310 mL) fresh-squeezed, strained white or pink grapefruit juice to a 750-mL glass bottle. Add 4 oz hibiscus simple syrup (order or fnd Ontario stockists at CahootsMade.com) and mix gently. Chill. To serve, top 2 oz of mixture with sparkling wine. Garnish with an edible fower or wedge of grapefruit. Makes 12 drinks.

Lillet Spritz

BEAU’S BUENOS DIAS GRUIT ALE LCBO 467084, 600 mL, $5.65

This creative Ontario craft brewery has resurrected a rare and ancient style of ale, a gruit (rhymes with “root”) beer that uses herbs, spices and botanicals in place of hops. In this brew, organic lime and orange juices plus lime zest get a Margarita-like lick from a hint of sea salt. 140 F OO D & DR I N K SUMMER 2017

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Here’s to BLUE SKIES crisp summer whites

Two Oceans Sauvignon Blanc

Two Oceans Moscato

NOW 8.95

AirMiles 10 Bonus Reward Miles

For a Limited Time Only Valid from June 18 - July 15

with purchase of a 750ml bottle from July 16 - Aug. 12

Please Enjoy Responsibly. Represented by PMA Canada pmacanada.com Visit twooceanswines.ca for wine cocktail ideas. facebook.com/TwoOceansWineCA | #SipOnSummer

30 YEARS AGO, WE TOOK THE ROAD LESS TRAVELLED SO WE COULD MAKE OUR BEER, OUR WAY. Today, we’re rewarding the next generation of makers who strive to do the same. So whether being a maker is your hobby or profession, share your passion with #CreateMoreFund on Facebook, Instagram or Twitter. We have up to $30,000 to help you along your way*. * Must be legal drinking age. No purchase necessary. For full contest details, visit www.creemoresprings.com/createmorefund

RECI P ES

With wine, beer and spirit recommendations by the LCBO’s Knowledge Resources Group.

GUIDE TO frieD chicken from page 57

C L A S S I C SO U T HER N B U T T E R MILK F R IED C H I CKE N Layer on the favour with a brine, a seasoned buttermilk marinade and a savoury four coating in this rendition of a classic. Plan ahead and time it right to allow the two days of brining and marinating, brush up on your frying technique and you’ll be well-rewarded with tender, juicy chicken with a golden crispycrunchy crust. Choose high-quality, air-chilled chicken. Use the pieces you like best (thighs are a favourite of many), or cut up a whole chicken into 10 pieces (removing the back bone, if you prefer); you’ll want to start with about a 4-lb (2-kg) chicken. The bones and skin help maximize the favour and that classic texture.

BRINE 1 onion, coarsely chopped 3 tbsp (45 mL) kosher or pickling salt 3 tbsp (45 mL) packed brown sugar 2 tbsp (30 mL) mustard seeds 1 tsp (5 mL) whole black peppercorns 4 bay leaves 5 cups (1.25 L) cold water, divided 3½ lbs (1.75 kg) bone-in skin-on chicken pieces

BUTTERMILK MARINADE 2 cups (500 mL) buttermilk 1 tbsp (15 mL) sweet paprika 2 tsp (10 mL) celery seeds 2 tbsp (30 mL) hot pepper sauce, such as Frank’s Original

COATING 1½ cups (375 mL) all-purpose four ½ cup (125 mL) cornstarch 2 tsp (10 mL) sweet paprika 1 tsp (5 mL) dried thyme 1 tsp (5 mL) salt 1 tsp (5 mL) garlic powder (optional)

½ tsp (2 mL) freshly ground pepper ½ tsp (2 mL) cayenne pepper 4 to 6 cups (1 to 1.5 L) canola oil or peanut oil

1 For the brine, combine onion, salt, sugar, mustard seeds, peppercorns, bay leaves and 1 cup (250 mL) water in a small saucepan. Bring to a boil over medium heat, stirring to dissolve salt and sugar. Pour into a large bowl and let cool. Add remaining 4 cups (1 L) water; refrigerate until chilled. 2 Trim of any excess skin and fat from chicken pieces. If using chicken breasts, cut each crosswise into 2 pieces. 3 Add chicken pieces to cold brine in a nonreactive bowl, pressing to immerse in liquid, or combine in an extra-large resealable plastic bag set in a container. Cover, or seal bag, and refrigerate for at least 12 hours or for up to 24 hours. 4 Drain brine from chicken; discard brine. Rinse of chicken pieces and pat dry with paper towels. 5 For the buttermilk marinade, combine buttermilk, paprika, celery seeds and hot pepper sauce in a clean large non-reactive bowl. Add chicken pieces and turn to coat. Cover and refrigerate for at least 8 hours or for up to 24 hours. 6 For the coating, whisk together four, cornstarch, paprika, thyme, salt, garlic powder (if using), pepper and cayenne. 7 Pour oil into a large cast-iron skillet, or heavy Dutch oven or pot, until about ¾ inch (2 cm) deep. Heat over medium heat to 350°F (180°C). 8 Preheat oven to 325°F (160°C). Set 2 or 3 wire racks on 2 or 3 separate rimmed baking sheets (see TIP). 9 Spoon 2 tbsp (30 mL) of the buttermilk marinade into four mixture, whisking until small clumps form. Working with 1 or 2 pieces at a time, remove chicken from buttermilk marinade and dredge in four mixture, turning and pressing to coat well. Place on one of the racks on the baking sheet. Repeat until all pieces are coated in four. Discard any excess marinade and four mixture.

10 Working with similar-size pieces in each batch, add chicken pieces to hot oil, 2 to 4 at a time, making sure there is at least 1 inch (2.5 cm) between pieces and pan isn’t crowded. The oil should come at least halfway up the sides of chicken pieces, and at least ½ inch (1 cm) below edge of pan. Cover pan loosely with foil. Fry, adjusting heat to make sure the temperature is maintained around 300°F (150°C), for about 6 minutes or until bottoms are deep golden-brown. Flip chicken pieces over and fry, uncovered, for about 6 to 8 minutes longer or until deep golden-brown and crispy. 11 Using a slotted spoon or tongs, transfer chicken pieces to clean wire rack set over baking sheet. Check the internal temperature of the chicken; it should register 165°F (74°C) in the thickest part. If not, bake on the rack in preheated oven for 5 to 10 minutes to fnish the cooking. 12 Repeat with remaining chicken pieces, adding more oil to the pan as necessary to maintain level and adjusting heat to maintain oil temperature, heating to about 325°F (160°C) before adding more chicken, but keeping it as close to 300°F (150°C) as possible once chicken is added. Let cool for 5 to 10 minutes before serving. To make chicken ahead, cool, then cover with foil (on the rack on baking sheet) and refrigerate for up to 1 day. Reheat on the rack in 350°F (180°C) oven for about 15 minutes. Serves 4 to 6

TIP Some chicken pieces will cook through

when fried, but thicker thighs and breasts may need to bake in the oven. It’s best to have 2 extra baking sheets lined with racks so some can be baked while others rest at room temperature after frying.

W H AT TO S E RV E 13th Street Cuvée Brut Rosé VINTAGES ESSENTIALS 147504

$27.95

Angels Gate Gamay Noir VQA LCBO 107714

$13.95

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LONG WEEKEND drinks from page 51

CA P O P U NC H 1 To a pitcher or punch bowl, add 2 cups (500 mL) Capo Capo, 2 cups (500 mL) orange juice, 2 cups (500 mL) cranberry juice, 2 oz lemon juice and 1 cup (250 mL) ginger ale. Add ½ cup (125 mL) each sliced oranges and strawberries. Pour into cups with ice, distributing fruit, and garnish each with a basil leaf.

Jam used in this recipe. Some like to purée some of the berries, and many really like a whole strawberry on top, hull and all. 1 cup (250 mL) whipping cream ¼ cup (60 mL) 30% sour cream 8 Sour Cream Biscuits (recipe follows) 1½ cups (375 mL) Platter Strawberry Jam (recipe this page)

1 Whip cream to soft peaks; gently whisk in sour cream. To make ahead, cover and refrigerate for up to 2 hours.

1 To a Highball glass flled with ice, add 1 oz Luxardo Bitter Bianco, 4 oz ruby red grapefruit juice, ½ oz lime juice and ¼ oz agave syrup. Stir well to mix. Garnish with a grapefruit slice and a sprig of thyme.

2 Break the biscuits in half. Place bottom halves in shallow dessert bowls. Drizzle some of the jam syrup on the cut side. Spoon on 1 rounded tbsp (15 mL) of the cream mixture. Cover with the biscuit tops, then more cream, if desired. When all of the Strawberry Shortcakes are assembled to this point, spoon berries from the jam on top, letting the syrup fow over the shortcake.

Makes 1 drink

Makes 8 servings

Makes approx. 8 drinks

ITA L IA N PA LO MA

WEEKEND IN MONTENEGRO 1 In a cocktail shaker flled with ice, add 2 oz Amaro Montenegro, 1 oz lemon juice and 1 oz Honey Syrup (recipe follows). Shake and strain into a rocks glass flled with ice. Top with 2 oz soda water. Garnish with an orange twist and lemon twist. Makes 1 drink

H O N EY SY RU P Combine 1 oz honey with ¼ oz hot water. Stir to thin honey and allow to cool.

CANADIAN CLASSICS from page 125

CA N A DA DAY STRAWB ER RY S H O RTCA K E This recipe honours the Canadian tradition of preserving, strawberries being a big favourite to “put down” for later. Platter Strawberry Jam, a heritage recipe, has a very soft set, lovely in shortcake, and if you have any biscuits left over, just right for buttered biscuits on the weekend. For a fresh berry version, wash, hull and slice 5 cups (1.25 L) berries, sweeten them slightly, just enough to make a syrupy juice, and spoon over the Sour Cream Biscuits as we do with the Platter Strawberry

Henry of Pelham Riesling Icewine $49.95

Grand Marnier LCBO 1784

3 Turn out onto a generously foured surface; give dough 8 gentle turns to smooth dough. Pat or roll out to generous ¾-inch (2-cm) thickness. With a 2-inch (5-cm) floured biscuit cutter, cut out rounds, wiping any dough from the cutter between cuts and dipping into flour. Re-roll scraps and cut additional rounds. Gather remaining scraps to form the baker’s biscuit. Arrange 2 inches (5 cm) apart on prepared pan. 4 Bake until tall and golden, about 18 to 20 minutes. Let cool on rack. Always best if eaten when just cool from the oven! Makes 8 biscuits, plus a biscuit for the baker to enjoy

PLAT TE R STRAW BERRY JA M

W H AT TO S E RV E VINTAGES ESSENTIALS 430561, 375 mL

2 In a large bowl, whisk together four, sugar, baking powder, baking soda and salt. Using pastry blender or fingertips, work in butter until mixture is crumbly. In a separate bowl, whisk together egg and sour cream. Pour over dry ingredients. Stir with a fork to make soft ragged dough. With foured hands, press into a rough disc.

$48.25

SOUR CRE AM BISCUITS Another example of waste not want not in farm kitchens. When cream soured naturally, there was no better way of using it up than making biscuits. The sour cream makes a moist feathery biscuit, ideal for turning into shortcake, but equally good served for breakfast or any time of the day. 1½ cups (375 mL) all-purpose four 4 tsp (20 mL) sugar 2 tsp (10 mL) baking powder ½ tsp (2 mL) baking soda ¼ tsp (1 mL) salt ¼ cup (60 mL) cold butter, cubed 1 large egg ¾ cup (175 mL) 14% sour cream

1 Arrange oven rack in centre of oven. Preheat oven to 400°F (200°C). Line small baking sheet with parchment paper or dust lightly with four.

This jam-making technique, boiling whole berries and sugar, then spreading it on a platter overnight before jarring, is old-fashioned but efective in creating a soft set preserve, somewhere between jam and syrupy compote. Because the jam is not processed in a boiling water bath, it requires refrigeration. It will last about 3 weeks, though its shorter shelf life is not a problem as the recipe, based on an old quart box of berries, makes about 3½ jars. 5 cups (1.25 L) strawberries 3½ cups (875 mL) sugar ¼ cup (60 mL) fresh lemon juice

1 Rinse strawberries briefy, and hull. If berries are small, leave whole; for larger berries, cut into halves or quarters. 2 Combine berries, sugar and lemon juice in a wide heavy-bottom shallow saucepan. Stir over low until sugar dissolves, about 10 minutes. Bring to a boil over high and boil hard, stirring almost constantly, until jam thickens, 10 minutes. Remove from heat; skim of any foam. 3 Pour onto a large platter to cool. Cover and set aside at room temperature for 12 hours or overnight. Spoon into clean jars, seal and store in the refrigerator for up to a month. Makes three to four 1-cup (250-mL) jars

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B U T T E R TA RT S

E ASY BUT TE R PASTRY

Butter tarts are the ultimate all-occasion dessert—great for summer picnics and cottage weekends, bake sales, for brunch or topped with ice cream and chocolate sauce for dinner parties. Keep your eye out for butter tart ice cream—baked tarts, broken up, mixed with ice cream still at the soft frozen stage, then hardened.

This recipe is adapted from one in the 1913 edition of the Five Roses Cook Book, and is popular in the Foodways Program at Fort York National Historic Site.

⅓ cup (80 mL) soft butter

1¾ cups (425 mL) all-purpose four ½ tsp (2 mL) salt ⅔ cup (150 mL) cold butter, cubed 1 egg yolk 3 tbsp (45 mL) ice water, approximate

¾ cup (175 mL) packed brown sugar

1 tbsp (15 mL) fresh lemon juice

2 eggs ½ cup (125 mL) medium, amber or dark maple syrup 1 tbsp (15 mL) fresh lemon juice Easy Butter Pastry (recipe follows) ¾ cup (175 mL) your choice Thompson raisins, chopped walnut or pecan halves or chocolate chips

1 Arrange oven rack in bottom third of oven. Preheat oven to 375°F (190°C). 2 In a bowl, beat the butter and sugar until smooth; beat in the eggs, maple syrup and lemon juice. Set aside. 3 Roll out Easy Butter Pastry to scant ¼-inch (5-mm) thickness. Cut out twelve 4½-inch (11-cm) rounds, rerolling pastry as needed. Fit rounds into deep muffin pans, pressing the pastry up slightly over the rims.

1 In a large bowl, whisk together the four and salt. With pastry blender or fngertips, rub the butter into the four mixture, working briskly until the mixture looks like coarse fresh bread crumbs. 2 In a separate bowl, whisk egg yolk, 3 tbsp (45 mL) water and lemon juice until blended. Sprinkle over four mixture, tossing dry and wet ingredients until they clump together, and sprinkling on a few more drops of ice water if necessary to incorporate all the four. Press until smooth; fatten into disc. Wrap and chill for 30 minutes, or up to 2 days. Let pastry come back to cool room temperature before rolling on foured surface. Make enough for 12 good-sized tarts

Makes 12 butter tarts

W H AT TO S E RV E Graham’s Late Bottled Vintage Port LCBO 191239

$17.40

Forty Creek Confederation Oak Reserve Whisky LCBO 195651

2 lbs (1 kg) peameal bacon roast

1 Bring the maple syrup, mustard, vinegar, thyme and pepper to a boil; simmer 2 minutes. Let cool. Pour half into a small bowl to serve as sauce. 2 Neatly score the top of the cornmeal crust at ½-inch (1-cm) intervals, cutting a generous ¼ inch (5 mm) deep. Brush half of the remaining maple mixture evenly over the roast. Do this a few hours ahead, cover lightly and refrigerate. 3 Preheat the barbecue to medium-high, 400°F (200°C). 4 Place the roast, cut-side up, on a piece of heavy-duty foil large enough to double and form a shallow bowl around the roast. Slide onto a rimless baking sheet and slip onto the grill. Put the lid down and roast for 10 minutes. Reduce heat to medium-low, 325°F (160°C). Cook for 30 minutes; brush with remaining maple mixture. Roast until crusty and burnished with an interior temperature of 140°F (60°C), about 30 minutes.

Serves 8

TIPS For grilled peameal bacon “chops,” MAPLE MUSTARD-GLAZED PE AME AL BACON BARBECUE ROAST A culinary hat trick: three stellar Canadian ingredients in one recipe — peameal bacon with its cornmeal wrap (an Ontario specialty); maple syrup, often from Quebec (where about 72 percent of the world’s production is boiled down), but not forgetting Ontario and Maritime syrup; and mustard from the Prairies where more than three-quarters of the world’s mustard seed is grown. ½ cup (125 mL) medium maple syrup

$70.15

¼ tsp (1 mL) freshly ground pepper

5 Transfer to carving board and cover lightly with foil; let rest for 15 minutes before slicing thinly and serving with sauce.

4 Divide your choice of raisins, nuts or chocolate chips among the tart shells. Spoon flling into tart shells, filling almost to the top. Bake until pastry is golden and the filling domes up to the top, 20 to 25 minutes. 5 Let pans rest for 3 minutes on a rack; run a small ofset spatula or rounded blade of knife around the edges to loosen the tarts, especially where the flling has run deliciously down the side of pastry. Let stand for 5 minutes for tarts to frm up. Again using an ofset spatula, lift tarts to rack to cool. If making ahead, layer with waxed paper in airtight container; store at room temperature for up to 3 days or freeze for up to 2 weeks. Reheat to serve.

2 tsp (10 mL) minced fresh thyme

¼ cup (60 mL) Dijon mustard

cut the roast into ¾-inch (2-cm) slices. Brush both sides very lightly with vegetable oil. Grill over medium-high heat on both sides just until marked. Brush on the maple sauce and grill for just enough time to crisp the edges and glaze the slices.

For oven-roasted peameal bacon, follow temperatures and times as for the barbecue version.

W H AT TO S E RV E Ironwood Hard Cider LCBO 405241, 473 mL

$3.05

Colchester Ridge Riesling VQA LCBO 483834

$14.95

2 tsp (10 mL) cider vinegar

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SA LT CO D CA K ES When buying salt cod, don’t be fooled by bags of salt cod pieces, however inexpensive. Ditto a chunk of bone-in salt cod with skin. Choose instead boneless, skinned salt cod—easy to poach, and so much less work than picking bits of the cod from sticky skin and bones. ½ lb (250 g) boneless salt cod 2 large russet potatoes, 1½ lbs (750 g) ¼ cup (60 mL) butter, divided 1 onion, fnely diced ½ tsp (2 mL) freshly ground pepper 2 eggs ¼ cup (60 mL) minced fat-leaf parsley ½ cup (125 mL) Panko or fne dry bread crumbs 2 tbsp (30 mL) canola oil, approximately

1 Rinse cod in cold water; immerse in bowl of cold water; cover. Refrigerate for 24 hours, draining and re-covering cod in fresh cold water every 4 hours, as possible. Drain and rinse. 2 Poach cod in simmering water to cover until it separates into large fakes when probed with a fork, about 15 to 20 minutes. Drain and

let cool. Break into chunks and pulse in food processor until in fne shreds.

while frying remaining cakes in remaining butter and oil.

3 Meanwhile, peel and cube potatoes. In a covered saucepan, cook in boiling water until tender, 10 to 15 minutes. Drain and mash or rice until smooth.

Makes 12 cakes, enough for 6 servings

4 While potatoes cook, melt half of the butter in small skillet; add onion. Fry over low heat until translucent, about 8 minutes. Stir in pepper. 5 Whisk the eggs in a large bowl; mix in the cod, then the potatoes, onion mixture and parsley. 6 Using a ⅓-cup (80-mL) measuring cup, scoop up cod mixture and form into smooth pucks about 1 inch (2.5 cm) thick. Arrange on tray. To make ahead, cover and refrigerate for up to 2 hours. Spread bread crumbs on a plate. Press about half of the crumbs overtop cakes. Turn cakes and repeat with remaining crumbs, pressing in any loose crumbs. 7 Heat half each of the oil and remaining butter in a large skillet over medium heat. Fry half of the cakes until golden on both sides, about 10 minutes. Keep warm in the oven

FRE SH CO D CA K ES Replace salt cod with 1 lb (500 g) fresh cod. Poach fsh until just frm and will fake when gently probed with a fork, about 10 minutes. Drain then fake with fngers or fork. Reduce quantity of potatoes to 2 medium and eggs to 1. Combine the cod, mashed potatoes, ½ tsp (2 mL) salt with remaining ingredients; form into cakes. Crumb and fry as for salt cod cakes. Makes 6 servings

W H AT TO S E RV E Cave Spring Dry Rosé VQA LCBO 295006

$15.95

Gatao Vinho Verde LCBO 204503

$8.40

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a splash of Beer from page 19

2 tbsp (30 mL) seeded and fnely chopped jalapeño pepper Kosher salt 1½ cups (375 mL) coarsely grated extra-old Canadian cheddar, preferably orange

Hot sauce

The hardest part of this recipe is removing the loaded-with-nachos plank to a serving platter. As with all barbecue recipes, times will vary slightly. Because you’re using a plank, just keep an eye on it to avoid any faming. Do buy an aged cheddar as it works really well with the beer. The better the cheese quality, the better the sauce. While Blue and Canadian are both lagers, feel free to substitute with another favourite Canadian beer. 1 large cedar plank, at least 12 x 8 inches (30 x 20 cm)

CHILI, BEER & LIME-MARINATED CHICKEN ¾ lb (375 g) skinless, boneless chicken thighs, about 6 small 1 lime 1 cup (250 mL) Canadian beer 2 tbsp (30 mL) vegetable oil ¼ cup (60 mL) fnely chopped coriander 2 tbsp (30 mL) minced jalapeño pepper 2 cloves garlic, minced

CHEESE & BEER DRIZZLE 1 tbsp (15 mL) butter 4 tsp (20 mL) all-purpose four Pinch each of cayenne pepper, dry mustard powder and salt ½ cup (125 mL) Canadian beer ¼ cup (60 mL) milk 1½ cups (375 mL) coarsely grated extra-old Canadian cheddar, preferably orange

NACHOS 1 cup (250 mL) seeded and diced plum tomatoes, 2 to 3 ⅓ cup (80 mL) coarsely chopped coriander

from page 100

2 tbsp (30 mL) fnely chopped sweet white onion

5 cups (1.25 L) large tortilla chips, about two-thirds of a 220-g bag

BA R B ECU ED PLA NK ED C H I CKE N NAC HOS

hot ofF THE grill

1 Place plank in sink. Cover with water and soak at least 2 hours. For chicken, cut each thigh in half then place in a medium bowl. Finely grate lime peel over chicken, then squeeze out juice into same bowl. Add beer, oil, coriander, jalapeño and garlic to chicken in bowl. Stir well. Refrigerate about 2 hours, stirring occasionally. 2 Just before barbecuing or up to a day in advance prepare cheese drizzle. Melt butter in a small pot over medium heat. Sprinkle with four, cayenne, mustard powder and salt. Whisk until blended. Gradually whisk in beer, then whisk in milk. Continue to whisk until mixture boils. Turn off heat and stir in cheese until melted. Set aside and keep warm if using right away. If preparing in advance, refrigerate until ready to use. Then reheat over low heat. 3 In a medium bowl, stir tomato with coriander, jalapeño and onion until mixed. 4 Preheat barbecue to high and grease grill. 5 Remove chicken from marinade. For simpler grilling, skewer chicken. Sprinkle with kosher salt. Grill about 5 minutes, turning occasionally, until cooked and nicely charred. Leave barbecue on. Remove chicken to a cutting board and slice into strips. Add to tomato mixture; stir. Add cheese and stir. 6 Preheat the plank for a couple of minutes (it may sizzle and begin to smoke a little). Place half the nachos on plank, leaving about 1½ inches (4 cm) as a border around the edges. Sprinkle with half the chicken mixture. Layer with remaining chips then chicken mixture. It will be quite high. 7 Cover and barbecue just until cheese is melted and bubbly (keep an eye on it), 5 to 8 minutes. Very carefully using 2 large spatulas, remove plank with the nachos from grill to a large fat platter (or the back of a baking sheet). Serve nachos on plank, drizzled with a little cheese sauce. Serve remaining cheese drizzle on the side along with hot sauce.

GRILLE D RO M A I NE W ITH TOA STED C U M I N VINAIGRET TE The trick to grilling heads of lettuce is a high heat and dry lettuce. You want charred outer leaves and barely wilted inner ones. The earthy dressing is a perfect ft for the smoky lettuce and briny feta. ½ cup (125 mL) extra virgin olive oil 3 tbsp (45 mL) red wine vinegar 2 tsp (10 mL) honey ¼ tsp (1 mL) salt ½ medium red onion, sliced 1½ tsp (7 mL) cumin seeds 3 small heads of romaine lettuce 1 ripe cocktail tomato Freshly ground pepper to taste 3 oz (90 g) feta, crumbled

1 Whisk together oil, vinegar, honey and salt; toss with onion and let stand for 1 hour. 2 Meanwhile, toast cumin in a small skillet over medium heat for 3 to 4 minutes or until fragrant and just beginning to pop. Let cool and fnely grind in a spice grinder or mortar and pestle; set aside. 3 Cut romaine heads in half lengthwise; carefully wash and let dry, cut-side down, on absorbent towel. 4 Preheat grill to 500°F (260°C). 5 Meanwhile, remove onions from oil mixture with a slotted spoon and set aside. Add liquid to blender or food processor along with tomato and reserved cumin; purée and season with pepper and additional salt to taste. 6 Grill lettuce, cut-side down, for 2 to 3 minutes or until just charred; arrange on a platter and sprinkle with strained onions. Pour dressing over and top with feta. Serves 6

W H AT TO S E RV E Whitehaven Sauvignon Blanc LCBO 308288

$19.40 A crisp New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc has the aromatic intensity to stand up to the earthy intensity of toasted cumin.

Serves 4

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D I Y YA KITOR I PA RT Y Customarily, yakitori is brushed with the glaze, or tare, in the fnal moments of cooking. To avoid cross-contamination by shared brushes and potentially uncooked meat, the glaze is reserved for brushing on the skewers after they come off the grill, and the skewers are given a quick toss in marinade before they hit the fre to help build layers of favour. To check the heat of a grill without a built-in thermometer, hold your hand 5 inches (12 cm) from grill and if you can’t hold it there for longer than 2 to 3 seconds, your grill is in the hot range—450° to 550°F (230° to 290°C). As opposed to narrow, cylindrical wooden or bamboo skewers, flat or gun-style skewers have wide fat ends to hold on to, making them easy to fip and turn. Because vegetables tend to shrink a lot when cooking and won’t grip the skewer, use single fat ones, or two gunstyle at a time to create a fat, broad raft of the vegetables skewered on both sides.

YAKITORI MARINADE & GLAZE 1 cup (250 mL) Japanese soy sauce 1 cup (250 mL) chicken stock 1 cup (250 mL) mirin ¾ cup (175 mL) sake 2 tbsp (30 mL) peanut oil

PINEAPPLE SKEWERS 5 inch (12 cm)-long peeled and cored pineapple, cut into 8 equal-sized 5 inch-long (12 cm) pieces

W H AT TO S E RV E

8 fat or gun-style skewers, each 6 inches (15 cm)

VINTAGES 145433

1 Thread 1 piece of pineapple, lengthwise, onto each skewer. Arrange on a separate plate.

8 fat or gun-style skewers, each 6 inches (15 cm)

1 Cut each slice of beef in half to create two equal sized pieces—you should now have 48 pieces total. Working with 1 skewer at a time, thread 6 pieces of beef, folding to neatly ft, and 3 green onions on each, alternating between them. Arrange in a separate glass baking dish or pie plate large enough to hold in a single layer. Ten minutes before your guests are ready to grill, pour ½ cup (125 mL) of the reserved marinade over and gently toss.

1 tsp (5 mL) coarsely ground black pepper

16 thick medium-size shiitake mushrooms

CHICKEN THIGH SKEWERS 8 boneless skinless chicken thighs, each cut into 8 pieces of roughly the same size 8 fat or gun-style skewers, each 6 inches (15 cm)

1 Thread 8 pieces chicken thigh, folding to neatly fit, on each skewer and arrange in a glass baking dish or pie plate large enough to hold in a single layer. Ten minutes before your guests are ready to grill, pour ½ cup (125 mL) of the reserved marinade over and gently toss.

$2.45 Crisp, dry and cleansing, Japan’s best-selling beer is an inspired pairing for Yakitori. Serve well-chilled.

24 green onions, trimmed, pale white and light green part only, cut into 1¼ inch (3 cm) lengths (freeze greens for use in stock if desired)

SHIITAKE & SHISHITO PEPPER SKEWERS

2 Return remaining soy mixture to heat, add sugar, green onion, ginger and pepper; simmer 20 minutes or until reduced to 1 cup (250 mL). Strain and set aside for use as glaze; let cool.

Asahi Super Dry

1¼ lbs (625 g) beef fllet, cut into 24 slices, each slice about ¼ inch (5 mm) thick

5 slices ginger, ¼ inch (5 mm) thick

1 Combine soy, stock, mirin and sake in a pot over medium heat; boil for 5 minutes to burn off alcohol. Remove 1 cup (250 mL) and set this portion aside for use as marinade; stir in peanut oil and let cool.

$10.20 Follow tradition and serve sake with Yakitori. Sake’s delicate palate and creamy texture are a perfect foil for the tangy favours of the glaze. LCBO 572313, 500 mL

BEEF FILLET & GREEN ONION SKEWERS

¼ cup (60 mL) frmly packed brown sugar 2 green onions, trimmed and cut in half lengthwise

Gekkeikan Junmai Sake

24 shishito peppers 8 fat or 16 gun-style skewers, each 6 inches (15 cm)

1 Working with 1 flat skewer or 2 gun-style skewers 1 inch (2.5 cm) apart and parallel to each other, thread 3 shishito peppers and 2 shiitake, alternating between them. Arrange on a plate alongside the pineapple skewers.

BLISTE RED TO M ATO & CORN SA L A D WI TH SALAMI V I NA I GRET TE Never miss an opportunity to add great grill favour to everything by using your grill while it’s heating up or cooling down. Smoky croutons are a favourite way to use up remaining heat after dinner. Corn too—simply throw on the grill after dinner is cooked, turn it a few times, and you’ve got something delicious to add to salad or salsa the next day.

SALAMI VINAIGRETTE ½ cup (125 mL) extra virgin olive oil 2 tsp (10 mL) white wine vinegar 1 tbsp (15 mL) lemon juice ½ tsp (2 mL) Dijon mustard 1 small clove garlic, fnely chopped or grated

TO COOK

2 oz (60 g) Genoa salami, fnely chopped

1 Preheat your tabletop grill to about 500°F (260°C)—see headnote for gauging the temperature of your grill without a thermometer.

Salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste

2 Grill the skewers, turning from time to time, until cooked to desired doneness: 8 minutes total for the chicken, 4 minutes total for medium-rare beef, about 4 minutes or until warmed through for the pineapple, and 3 to 4 minutes for the vegetables. Serve cooked skewers with glaze and a brush alongside.

2 cups (500 mL) grilled croutons (see TIP)

Serves 6 to 8

2 corn on the cob, shucked 24 cherry tomatoes 1 cup (250 mL) basil leaves, torn if large 3 green onions, sliced 3 heads little gem lettuce, leaves separated and torn into bite-sized pieces

1 For the vinaigrette, whisk together oil, vinegar, lemon juice and Dijon; stir in garlic and salami. Season to taste with salt and pepper.

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2 Grill corn, turning from time to time, over hot grill for 8 to 10 minutes or until lightly browned. Grill tomatoes (using a grilling basket if necessary) until blackened in spots and ruptured. Add tomatoes to a medium bowl. When corn is cool enough to handle, cut corn kernels from cobs and add to bowl with tomatoes (cover, refrigerate, and bring back to room temperature if making ahead). Add croutons, basil leaves, green onions and half of the dressing; gently toss. 3 Arrange lettuce in the bottom of a large serving platter or bowl. Drizzle with remaining dressing. Turn out tomato mixture over lettuce and serve immediately. Serves 4 to 6

TIP To make grilled croutons, toss 4 cups

(1 L) day-old white bread chunks with 3 tbsp (45 mL) olive oil and season with salt and pepper. Add to a grilling basket and place over medium or hot grill, turning over once, until lightly charred and crisp, between 3 to 6 minutes depending on heat of grill.

W H AT TO S E RV E Trius Chardonnay VQA LCBO 497248

$15.10 This smoky and nutty salad calls out for a full-bodied white wine. Oak-aged Chardonnay contributes favours of butter, toasted nut and spice.

½ tsp (2 mL) fennel pollen (optional) Salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste

G R I L L E D C LA MS , C HILIES & B R E A D C RU MB S

⅔ cup (150 mL) coarse bread crumbs

These are the clams you’ll want at your last meal. Inspired by the superb clams at Lilia in Brooklyn, N.Y., the fennel seeds and optional fennel pollen lend a modest licorice note to otherwise smoky and robustly dressed grilled clams. Oil-preserved chilies are available at well-stocked grocers and Italian specialty shops. Calabrian are the most widely available and easiest to fnd, but any oil-preserved chilies will do. Plan ahead as the process to purge and open the clams, while simple, takes some time.

6 tbsp (90 mL) unsalted butter, divided into 18 equal-sized pieces

2 to 6 tbsp (30 to 90 mL) sea salt 6 to 18 cups (1.5 to 4.5 L) cold water 18 cherry stone clams, each about 3 inches (8 cm) long 2 tbsp (30 mL) fnely chopped oil-preserved red chilies 5 tbsp (75 mL) olive oil, divided 1 tsp (5 mL) fnely grated lemon zest 1 tbsp (15 mL) lemon juice 1 clove garlic, fnely chopped

1½ tsp (7 mL) fennel seed ½ cup (125 mL) dry apple wood chips

1 Combine 1 tbsp (15 mL) sea salt with 8 cups (2 L) cold water in a large bowl; stir to dissolve salt, add clams and refrigerate for 2 hours; drain. If bottom of bowl is gritty from sand, repeat process up to 2 more times. Place purged and drained clams on a small baking sheet and freeze for 2 hours. 2 Meanwhile, whisk together chilies, 2 tbsp (30 mL) olive oil, lemon zest and juice, garlic and fennel pollen if using; season with salt and pepper to taste. 3 Heat remaining 3 tbsp (45 mL) olive oil in a skillet over medium heat. Add bread crumbs, sprinkle fennel seeds over, season with salt and pepper, and fry until golden and crisp. Remove from heat; set aside. 4 Thaw clams; shells will slowly open. Open clams using your hands and detach muscle from 1 shell using a sharp knife; discard top

shell as you would an oyster. Detach muscle from bottom but leave in shell. 5 Preheat grill to 400°F (200°C); add smoking chips directly to charcoal (or arrange in a smoking box on a gas grill). 6 Divide butter between clams and place on grill. Close lid and cook for 6 to 8 minutes or until bubbling and clams are opaque and white. Remove to a platter. Divide chili dressing and bread crumbs between clams and serve while hot. Makes 18 clams

W H AT TO S E RV E Coyote’s Run Unoaked Chardonnay VQA LCBO 26740

$15.10 The subtle fennel notes in this dish are enhanced by the crisp citrus and green apple flavours of a steely unoaked Chardonnay.

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aluminum roasting pan is best) filled with 1 inch (2.5 cm) water in centre of kettle. If using the allspice berries, sprinkle over charcoal and replace grate. 4 Place chicken over indirect heat, close lid and cook for 20 minutes. Move chicken to hotter edges over direct heat and cook 5 to 7 minutes longer per side, uncovered, or until crisp, dark brown and juices run clear. Remove to a board and let rest for 10 minutes.

J E R K CHIC K EN SA N DWIC HES Cooking jerk over gas is a missed opportunity. The way to great jerk, the sort that makes you dream of ditching your job for Montego Bay and a jerk shack on the beach, is undoubtedly cooking over wood—and lump charcoal is just that. Technique is also important: too hot a fre and the delicious marinade burns; let it cook too quickly and good quality jerk chicken’s telltale pink meat will be white instead.

JERK PASTE 6 green onions, roughly chopped 1 to 4 Scotch bonnet peppers, stemmed 2 cloves garlic

5 Meanwhile whisk together mayonnaise, apricot jam and green onion. Peel and cut avocados into thick slices and sprinkle with lime juice. Split buns. 6 To assemble sandwiches, carve chicken from the bones and divide meat and juices between bottom buns; top with avocado slices. Spread top buns liberally with the mayonnaise before placing on sandwiches. Makes 6 sandwiches

W H AT TO S E RV E Red Stripe Lager LCBO 676841, 6 pk

$13.25 Tame the heat of jerk spice with a crisp, refreshing lager beer. Red Stripe is the ideal partner for this iconic Jamaican dish.

4 tsp (20 mL) thyme leaves

Wernesgrüner Pilsner

1 tbsp (15 mL) ground allspice

LCBO 427831, 500 mL

1½ tsp (7 mL) coarsely ground black pepper 2 tsp (10 mL) salt ½ tsp (2 mL) ground nutmeg

$2.05 Wernesgrüner’s balanced hops character and subtle fruitiness underscore the spicy notes of the sandwich without intensifying the heat.

¾ tsp (4 mL) ground cinnamon 2 tbsp (30 mL) lime juice 1 tbsp (15 mL) dark soy 4 tsp (20 mL) packed dark brown sugar 12 bone-in, skin-on chicken thighs 1 cup (250 mL) dried allspice berries (optional) ⅔ cup (150 mL) mayonnaise 2 tbsp (30 mL) apricot jam 2 chopped green onions 2 small ripe avocados Juice of half a lime 6 soft white buns

1 For jerk paste; combine all jerk ingredients in a blender and process until smooth. 2 Toss chicken with half (about ⅓ cup/80 mL) of the jerk paste. Refrigerate remaining paste, covered, for up to a week. 3 Bring lump charcoal-fired grill to 325° to 350°F (160° to 180°C). Push charcoal to edges of kettle and place a drip tray (a disposable

FLAT-TOP PORTE RH OUSE & SM OKY STE AK SAUCE Both the sauce and steak benefit greatly by using wood chips, whether you’re using gas or charcoal. Adding them just before cooking your steak-sauce ingredients amplifies the smoke favours. Adding them when you light your grill provides more subtle favour to the steak.

HOUSE STEAK SAUCE 1 cup (250 mL) dry oak or mesquite chips Oil for greasing griddle 3 plum tomatoes, halved lengthwise 1 small onion, peeled and halved, root end left intact 4 skin-on garlic cloves 10 Medjool dates, pitted ¼ cup (60 mL) malt vinegar 3 tbsp (45 mL) Worcestershire sauce

¼ tsp (1 mL) ground cloves 2 tsp (10 mL) salt ½ tsp (2 mL) freshly ground black pepper 1 cup (250 mL) oak smoking chips, soaked in water for 1 hour 2 inch-thick (5 cm) porterhouse steak, 2½ to 3 lbs (1.25 to 1.5 kg) Salt and pepper 3 tbsp (45 mL) salted butter, thinly sliced 2 tsp (10 mL) chopped thyme

1 Arrange a cast-iron griddle or large frying pan over grates and preheat grill to 500°F (260°C). Sprinkle wood chips over coals (or arrange a smoking box on a gas grill), and lightly oil griddle. 2 Place tomatoes on fat-top, cut-side down, along with the onion and garlic. Cook for 3 minutes per side with the lid closed or until lightly charred all over; remove. Add dates to griddle and cook for 2 minutes per side or until caramelized. Let cool. 3 Peel the charred garlic and add to blender along with the tomatoes, dates and onion; add vinegar, Worcestershire, cayenne, cloves, salt and pepper. Process until glossy and smooth. (Steak sauce can be made up to a week in advance and kept covered and refrigerated.) 4 For the steak, add 2 to 3 smoking chunks to charcoal when lighting (or arrange chips in a smoking box on a gas grill). Place a cast-iron griddle or large frying pan on grate, close lid and preheat to 400°F (200°C). 5 Season steak generously with salt and pepper. Place steak on griddle; do not oil. Close lid and cook for 8 minutes per side for mediumrare. Just before removing, arrange butter over steak and sprinkle with thyme. 6 Tent steak with foil and let rest for 5 minutes. Carve into ½-inch-thick (1-cm) slices and serve with steak sauce. Serves 4 to 6

W H AT TO S E RV E Mill Street Distillery Root Beer LCBO 461459, 6 pk

$14.90 The earthy and spicy nuances of traditional root beer accentuate the smoky-sweet flavours of the classic steak sauce. Serve over plenty of ice.

Neustadt 10W30 Brown Ale LCBO 64642, 473 mL

$3.05 With aromatic roasted and smoky notes, this brawny ale can easily stand up to grilled steak. The creamy texture contrasts with the piquancy of the sauce.

Pinch cayenne

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¾ tsp (4 mL) sugar ¾ tsp (4 mL) salt 1½ tsp (7 mL) dried oregano ½ tsp (2 mL) ground cumin 1 tbsp (15 mL) peanut, grape-seed or canola oil ⅓ cup (80 mL) olive oil 2 cloves garlic, fnely chopped or grated 6 bap buns, or other soft white bun, split

S MOKE D TO MATO & GR IDD LE D P R OVO LON E SA NDWI C H E S The star of the show here is the low-andslow-smoked tomato. For just pocket change and patience you get great Southern BBQ flavour. Paired with melted provolone and a squishy bun, it just might make summer’s best sandwich.

SMOKED TOMATOES 9 ripe plum tomatoes, halved 1½ tsp (7 mL) red wine vinegar

CLARKE MUSKOKA TEAM

6 slices provolone, each ½ inch (1 cm) thick (about 3 oz/90 g per slice)

1 Set up grill as smoker (see TIP); close lid and bring to 300°F (150°C). Toss tomatoes with next 6 ingredients. Arrange tomatoes, cut-side up, over indirect heat; close lid and smoke for 45 minutes. Turn cut-side down and smoke for an additional 30 minutes. 2 Redistribute coals to centre of kettle if using a charcoal grill; increase grill to 500°F (260°C). Combine olive oil and garlic; brush interior of buns with garlic oil and toast; set aside. Arrange flat-top or cast-iron skillet over direct heat and close lid for 15 minutes to

heat. Brush remaining oil mixture over cheese and cook on griddle for 2 minutes per side or until golden. Immediately transfer slices (1 per sandwich) to buns. Top each with 3 tomato halves and top buns. Makes 6 sandwiches

TIP To set up a grill as smoker, begin by

lighting for indirect heat. Arrange smoking chips in a smoking box according to manufacturers directions and place on lit side of the gas grill. For charcoal, place several chunks of preferred wood over charcoal and allow to burn until fre extinguishes.

W H AT TO S E RV E Mateus Rosé LCBO 166

$10.05 Perennial favourite Mateus Rosé has an appealing sweetness that counters the smoky notes of the tomatoes while efervescence cuts the oiliness of melted cheese.

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TH E PE RF ECT B U RGER W H AT TO S E RV E Side Launch Dark Lager LCBO 437228, 473 mL

$2.90 Echo the smoky favours of the dish with a robust dark lager that has pronounced roasted malt and cofee bean aromas.

G R I L L E D PA NELA WIT H SALSA MOR ITA Toronto’s Kensington Market is unofcially the city’s Little Mexico, with more and more of that country’s specialty products available all the time. Morita is a type of chipotle with a ferocious chili bite and mellow smoke favour. If unavailable where you are, substitute 1 canned chipotle in adobo, which you can add directly to the blender. Queso panela is a mild, milky cheese popular in Mexico.

SALSA MORITA 6 small tomatillos, about 1 lb (500 g) 2 dried morita peppers 2 cloves garlic ¾ tsp (4 mL) salt ½ white onion, roughly chopped 1 lb (500 g) queso panela or paneer, cut into ½ inch-thick (1 cm) slabs ¼ cup (60 mL) four 3 cups (750 mL) thinly sliced red cabbage Juice of ½ lime Salt and pepper 12 small corn tortillas, warmed Small bunch cilantro

1 Broil or grill the tomatillos until blackened and soft; let cool. Toast the moritas in a small skillet over medium heat for 1 minute a side, pressing down to bring them in contact with the pan. Remove to a small bowl and add enough hot tap water to cover; soak for 45 minutes. Stem (if necessary) and remove the seeds for a milder salsa; otherwise add to a blender whole along with the tomatillos, garlic and salt. Process until almost smooth, add onion and pulse until chopped. (Salsa may be made up to 3 days in advance and kept covered in the fridge.) 2 Heat grill to 500°F (260°C). 3 Toss cheese in four and grill for 3 minutes per side or until golden. Pour salsa into a shallow dish or pie plate and place cheese on top. Toss cabbage with the lime juice, and season with salt and pepper. Serve alongside the cheese, tortillas and cilantro. Let guests assemble their own panela tacos.

BALSAMIC-STEWED PLUMS WITH GRILLED CAMEMBERT Make the sweet, savoury plums in advance and all that’s left to do is toast some good sourdough and toss the cheese on the grill. It’s as easy as delicious has ever been. 1 cup (250 mL) balsamic vinegar 1 cup (250 mL) water ¾ cup (175 mL) sugar 1 star anise 1 cinnamon stick, 3 inches (8 cm) 2 slices ginger 2 green cardamom pods 1 lb (500 g) frm red-fesh plums, pitted and cut into 8 wedges each 1 shallot, sliced ¼ cup (60 mL) apple wood chips 8 oz (250 g) wheel Camembert Olive oil to brush Grilled sourdough to serve

1 Combine balsamic, water and sugar in a medium pot over medium heat; add star anise, cinnamon stick, ginger and cardamom. Stir to dissolve sugar. Bring to a boil then reduce to low and simmer for 20 minutes or until reduced to 1 cup (250 mL). 2 Add plums and shallot, bring back to simmer, cover and cook for 2 minutes. Turn out into a non-reactive heatproof container, cover and refrigerate until chilled, about 2 hours. 3 Heat grill to 300°F (150°C). Sprinkle coals with apple wood chips (or arrange a smoker box on a gas grill). 4 Brush Camembert with olive oil. Grill cheese 4 minutes per side or until warmed through. Serve right away with grilled sourdough and stewed plums. Serves 4 to 6

W H AT TO S E RV E Megalomaniac Homegrown Red VQA LCBO 260364

$15.95 This wine has herbaceous notes that complement the earthy, nutty grilled Camembert. Fresh acidity cuts through the creamy texture of the melted cheese.

A good burger patty should taste like beef and its juices should run when given a squeeze. Having the right beef and optimal amount of fat is key. Well-marbled chuck is a great place to start—adding ground aged rib-eye takes things to a whole other level. The sauce strikes just the right balance between sweet, salty, spicy and crunchy.

SIGNATURE SAUCE 2 tbsp (30 mL) ketchup ½ tsp (2 mL) marmite 1 tsp (5 mL) Worcestershire sauce ½ cup (125 mL) mayonnaise 1 tbsp (15 mL) grape-seed or sunfower oil ½ tsp (2 mL) ground dried chipotle 1 cup (250 mL) chopped little gem or iceberg lettuce 1 lb (500 g) ground beef chuck 8 oz (250 g) well-aged rib-eye, ground Salt and freshly ground black pepper

1 For the sauce, stir together the ketchup, marmite and Worcestershire sauce until marmite is dissolved; whisk in mayonnaise, oil and chipotle. Refrigerate until you’re ready to light your grill. 2 For burgers, combine ground chuck and rib-eye. Divide into 4 patties roughly 4 inches (10 cm) across, being mindful not to compact them too much (patties will be quite thick). 3 Preheat grill to 450°F (230°C). 4 Stir lettuce into burger sauce. Season patties generously with salt and pepper and cook for 4 minutes per side for medium. Makes enough sauce and patties for 4 burgers

W H AT TO S E RV E Raymond Family Classic Cabernet Sauvignon LCBO 269761

$19.70 Celebrate the quality of the meat in this burger with a full-bodied California Cabernet. The salty component in the sauce will accentuate the wine’s blackcurrant favours.

Mission Hill Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon VINTAGES ESSENTIALS 553321

$30.95 The chocolate and smoky notes in this velvety Okanagan Valley Cabernet Sauvignon create a sophisticated pairing for grilled beef.

Makes 12 small tacos

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matching the catch

make stufng. Use your favourite curry paste for the two-ingredient sauce; the sauce adds a punch of favour with only a few minutes of prep.

from page 63

2 small green onions, sliced 2 tbsp (30 mL) capers 2 cups (500 mL) packed parsley leaves or half parsley and half cilantro Finely grated zest of 1 lemon (optional) 1 rainbow trout, cleaned and dressed, about 1½ lbs (750 g) Salt and white pepper 1 can (400 mL) coconut milk 1 tbsp (15 mL) curry paste

G R E M O LATA RA INB OW T R O U T WITH COCONU T C U R RY SAU C E If you haven’t caught your own, for maximum flavour choose your rainbow trout straight from a tank at your fsh shop or grocery store. Then add the fragrance of a summer herb garden to this mild-tasting fsh with our easy-to-

1 Preheat oven to 450°F (230°C). 2 For gremolata, place green onions and capers in a mini-chop. Whirl until chopped. Add parsley and pulse until fnely chopped, stopping to scrape down sides often. Turn into a bowl. Stir in lemon zest, if using. 3 Cut a slit from the belly to the tail of the trout. Open up the fsh. To remove spine and bones, start at the head end and slide a small

sharp knife around the spine bone and then run it under the bones on one side of the fsh, scraping the fesh from the bones when necessary. Lift the spine and repeat process on the other side. Discard spine and bones. 4 Place fish on a parchment-lined baking dish. Open fsh, skin-side down. Sprinkle with salt and white pepper. Spread gremolata over one side of fsh. Fold other side overtop and gently press together. Measure fsh at its thickest point and bake for 10 minutes per inch, about 12 to 15 minutes. 5 While fsh is baking, combine coconut milk and curry paste in a medium saucepan. Bring to a boil, stirring to blend in curry. Boil gently until reduced by half, about 10 minutes. 6 When fsh is baked, peel skin from top side. Using 2 wide spatulas, lift fsh onto a platter and turn skin-side up. Peel of remaining skin. Slice fsh into serving-size pieces and drizzle with coconut curry sauce. Serve with remaining sauce. Serves 3 to 4

imported & distributed by

Gourmet Trading Co. | p:

905-826-6800

| 888-482-3278 | www.gourmettrading.com | m a de i n m a i n e | stonewallkitchen.com

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Clear Choices from page 94

GRE E N ONION & RICOT TA GOUGÈ RE S Pillowy cheese-flavoured gougères are reimagined with a more delicate creamy cheese. The result is not as airy as the traditional ones, but the favour of the cheese is more gentle so as not to overpower the subtle favours in the vodka pairing. Heaping ½ cup (125 mL) traditional ricotta 2 green onions, green part only 5 large eggs ¾ cup (175 mL) 2% milk ½ cup (125 mL) unsalted butter 1¼ tsp (6 mL) coarse salt

G R I L L E D RA D ISHES WIT H CAV IA R B U T T ER Barbecuing radishes imparts a subtle smoky flavour and softens them slightly. Dipping fresh radishes in butter with salt is a traditional way to serve them. In this recipe, the caviar acts as the salty factor but with an intense depth of favour, making this an excellent pairing dish for a vodka-tasting party. ½ cup (125 mL) good-quality unsalted butter, at room temperature ½ oz (15 g) Ocean Wise sustainable caviar such as upscale Canadian sturgeon or inexpensive salmon roe 3 bunches of radishes, preferably with their tops 2 tbsp (30 mL) extra virgin olive oil ¼ tsp (1 mL) each Maldon salt and freshly ground black pepper

1 Using a wooden or porcelain spoon, stir butter with caviar in a small serving bowl. Refrigerate while preparing radishes. 2 Preheat barbecue to medium-high. 3 Thoroughly wash radishes and their leafy green tops, scrubbing and scraping around where radishes meet their leafy tops. Pat dry. Place in a large bowl. Drizzle with oil. Sprinkle with salt and pepper. Toss to coat, rubbing oil into leafy greens and all over radishes. 4 Barbecue radishes until grill marks form and tops crisp (like kale chips), 6 to 8 minutes. Remove to a serving platter. Serve alongside butter for dipping. If using a spoon or knife for serving, be sure to use ones made from mother-of-pearl, bone, wood or porcelain so as not to taint the favour of the caviar. Makes 8 to 12 servings

Generous grinding freshly ground black pepper Pinch freshly grated nutmeg 1 cup (250 mL) all-purpose four

1 Line a sieve with cheesecloth. Place ricotta in it and strain for 1 hour. 2 Meanwhile, fnely chop green onions. Measure out 2 tbsp (30 mL). Place in food processor along with 4 eggs. Prepare a large piping bag ftted with a 1 inch (1 cm) round tip. Beat remaining egg with a little water in a small bowl. 3 Line 1 large or 2 small baking sheets with parchment paper. If using 2 baking sheets, arrange racks in top and bottom of oven. If using 1 sheet, leave rack in centre of oven. 4 Preheat oven to 425°F (220°C). 5 When ricotta is drained, add 1 cup (125 mL) to mixture in food processor. Whirl until smooth. 6 Pour milk into a large saucepan. Add butter, salt, pepper and nutmeg. Set over medium heat. Heat until steaming but not boiling. Remove from heat. Reduce heat to low. Add four and immediately stir until smooth. Continue stirring constantly for 2 minutes until mixture begins to stick to the pan. Carefully turn into food processor. Whirl until very smooth.

H ORSE RAD I S H RARE-BE E F TOA STS Try a new take on classic roast beef in the form of toasts. The intense taste of horseradish is ofset with crème fraîche. These bites are fantastic sampled alongside a vodka fight. 2 strip loin steaks, each at least 1 inch (2.5 cm) thick 2 tsp (10 mL) Maldon or coarse salt and cracked black pepper 1 piece fresh horseradish, 3 inches (8 cm), peeled 1 tub (250 g) crème fraîche 1 loaf of pumpernickel rye bread or 1 pkg (250 g) thin sliced pumpernickel rye bread 2 tsp (10 mL) olive oil 2 tsp (10 mL) butter Baby beet sprouts or radish sprouts or pea shoots, for garnishing

1 Remove steaks from fridge. Pat dry with paper towels and set in a shallow dish. Sprinkle with salt and pepper. Press into steak. Bring steaks to room temperature, about 1 hour. 2 Meanwhile, coarsely grate ¼ cup (60 mL) horseradish into a medium bowl. Stir in crème fraîche and a pinch of salt. Set aside. Cut bread into small toast-sized bites, approximately 2 inches (5 cm) square. 3 Toast the bread pieces on a baking sheet in a preheated 375°F (190°C) oven, if you like, for 5 to 7 minutes.

7 Scrape into piping bag. Pipe circles (filling in centres), each less than 2 inches (5 cm) wide and not too high. Leave a little space between each. Using a damp fnger, smooth tops. Brush each top with beaten egg.

4 When steaks are at room temperature, set a heavy-bottom frying pan or grill pan over medium-high heat. Add oil and butter. Carefully swirl to coat pan. When frothy, add steaks. Cook until golden, about 2 to 3 minutes per side for rare. Remove to a cutting board. Loosely cover with foil. Let stand for 5 minutes.

8 Bake in centre of preheated oven until bottoms are golden, tops are lightly golden and dry, 16 to 18 minutes. Remove sheet to a rack. Serve warm or at room temperature.

5 Meanwhile, dollop some horseradish crème fraîche over each toast. Thinly slice steaks. Divide between toasts. Garnish with sprouts. Serve immediately.

Makes about 42 to 48 gougères

Makes 36 toasts

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WE ST- COA ST S HR IMP D EV I L L E D EGG S Crowd-pleasing devilled eggs get a refreshed vodka-friendly twist with the addition of shrimp. Look for Canadian Ocean Wise sustainable shrimp. 12 large eggs ½ cup (125 mL) mayonnaise 1 tbsp (15 mL) fnely chopped celery leaves plus more for garnishing, if you like 2 tsp (10 mL) fnely chopped chives or green onions plus more for garnishing, if you like ½ tsp (2 mL) grainy Dijon mustard ¼ tsp (1 mL) salt ¼ lb (125 g) fresh or defrosted, small, cooked West Coast shrimp

ference is bigger than the head of your hand blender. Place egg, Dijon, vinegar, lemon juice, oil and salt in container. 2 Lower head of blender all the way to bottom of container. Holding container steady with free hand, turn on blender. Once emulsion begins, tilt blender head to incorporate rest of oil. Stop when emulsion is complete. It should take no more than 20 seconds. 3 Mix mayo briefy with spatula, then transfer to an airtight container. Press plastic wrap against surface of mayo. Refrigerate up to 1 week. Makes 1¼ cups (310 mL)

3 Pat shrimp dry with paper towels. Finely chop shrimp and stir into yolk mixture. 4 Using 2 forks or 2 spoons, top egg halves with flling. Sprinkle with more chives and/or celery leaves, if you like. Makes 24 devilled eggs

TRENDSPOTTING from page 29

H A N D - B LENDER MAYO Unlike traditional mayonnaise recipes, this one utilizes the whole egg instead of just the yolk. The addition of egg white gives it a lighter, fufer texture. For aïoli, add 1 clove of garlic grated on a rasp. 1 very fresh large egg 1½ tsp (7 mL) Dijon mustard 1 tbsp (15 mL) white wine vinegar 2 tsp (10 mL) fresh lemon juice 1 cup (250 mL) vegetable oil ½ tsp (2 mL) fne sea salt

1 Find a tall, narrow, sturdy 4-cup (1-L) container or measuring pitcher whose circum-

In addition to sweetening cocktails, this zippy maple syrup is delicious drizzled on pancakes, wafes or French toast, though it may be too piquant for small children. The most efcient way to peel ginger is to scrape it with a spoon. 3 oz (90 g) fresh ginger 1 cup (250 mL) pure maple syrup

1 Peel ginger and fnely grate on a rasp set over a medium bowl to capture juice. You should have approximately ¼ cup (60 mL). Whisk in maple syrup. Cover and let stand at room temperature for 1 hour. 2 Fine strain into bowl, pressing on solids to extract syrup. Transfer to glass jar with lid. Refrigerate up to 2 weeks.

1 Place eggs in a large saucepan or small pot. Cover with cold water. Bring to a boil over high heat. When water comes to a boil, remove from heat. Cover tightly with a lid. Let stand for 10 minutes. Drain. Remove eggs to a bowl flled with ice-cold water. Replace cold water until eggs have cooled. Peel. 2 Slice eggs in half lengthwise. Place eggwhite halves on a platter. Remove yolks and push through a sieve into a medium bowl. Add mayonnaise and whisk until blended and smooth. Add celery leaves, chives, Dijon and salt. Stir until evenly mixed.

GINGE R MA PL E SY RU P

Makes 1 cup plus 2 tbsp (280 mL)

Cool it! from page 133

ARCTIC RYE AN D GINGE R Sweet, sour and a little spicy, this drink reimagines the great Canadian Highball as a frozen cocktail. Since it is watered down with ice, it benefits from a higher proof whisky such as Crown Royal Northern Harvest Rye ( LCBO 434092, $35.20). To cut a long, thin lemon twist, you will need a channel knife, a worthy investment for any home bar. Otherwise garnish the drink with a lemon slice.

TH E A RT O F PACKI NG A CO O L ER

4 oz Canadian rye whisky 2½ oz Ginger Maple Syrup (recipe follows) 2 oz strained fresh lemon juice 2 cups (500 mL) ice cubes

➤

2 long thin lemon twists Short straws ➤

1 Pour whisky, Ginger Maple Syrup and lemon juice into an airtight container. Freeze at least 6 hours and up to 2 days. The mixture will stay liquid because of the alcohol.

➤

2 Place 2 lowball glasses in freezer for at least 30 minutes. 3 Pour drink mixture into blender and add ice. Blend until smooth. Divide among chilled glasses. Garnish with lemon twists and serve with straws. Makes 2 drinks

➤

Put a block of ice or a frozen plastic water jug (bonus: you’ll have cold drinking water) on the bottom. Pre-chill drinks. Glass bottles go on bottom, topped with cube ice and a handful of rock salt. Horizontally layer cans and plastic bottles, giving each layer a mixed assortment of drinks. After each layer, add cube ice and shake cooler to settle. Bag ice separately for cocktails. Garnishes go in hard-sided containers on top, pre-speared on picks, each container labelled by drink.

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NEIGHBOURHOOD FEAST

5 minutes then quickly char it directly on the flame of a gas burner.) Transfer to a baking sheet and cool completely.

2 tsp (10 mL) Chinese fve-spice powder

from page 72

4 Soak sliced onion in cold water for 10 minutes. Drain and pat dry with paper towel.

1 piece ginger, 3 inches (8 cm), sliced

5 Stand corn on end. Slice downward with a sharp knife to cut kernels away from cob. Place corn in a large mixing bowl with onion, tomatoes, cilantro, olive oil, lime juice, salt and pepper. Mix. 6 For each serving, place a little mound of salad greens in a bowl, if using. Spoon in some corn salad. Top with a dollop of crema and sprinkle with feta. Serve with lime wedges.

M E XICA N STR EET CO R N SA L A D Called esquites in Spanish, this dish turns Mexico’s all-dressed corn-on-the-cob into a summery salad. If you don’t like spicy foods, use smoked paprika in the crema; otherwise, chipotle powder gives the salad an authentic smoky kick. The crema is also delicious with nachos or grilled fsh.

CHILI-LIME CREMA ½ cup (125 mL) mayonnaise (reduced fat is fne)

Serves 8 as an appetizer

W H AT TO S E RV E Sleeman Original Draught LCBO 612259, 6 pk

$11.95 Choose a refreshing beer with the light-and-malty style descriptor. This beer’s citrusy notes pick up the zesty lime favours of the crema.

Woody’s Mexican Lime LCBO 697359, 4 pk

$10.00 Thirst-quenching lime and light sweetness will temper the spicy heat of chipotle. Serve over plenty of ice.

½ cup (125 mL) sour cream 4 tsp (20 mL) fresh lime juice Finely grated zest of 1 lime ¾ tsp (4 mL) smoked paprika or ground chipotle pepper Salt to taste

CORN SALAD 6 cobs of corn, shucked ⅔ cup (150 mL) thinly sliced Vidalia onion 1 pint cherry tomatoes, halved ½ cup (125 mL) chopped cilantro 2 tbsp (30 mL) extra virgin olive oil 2 tbsp (30 mL) fresh lime juice Salt and pepper to taste 4 cups (1 L) salad greens (optional) 1 cup (250 mL) crumbled feta

H OISIN-GLAZ E D RIB S W ITH SE SAM E AN D SCALLION S Sweet, sour and crackling with sesame seeds, these Asian-style ribs will require a stack of napkins to wipe sticky fingers and smiling faces. Oven-steaming before grilling allows you to infuse the meat with aromatics, and it ensures the ribs will be moist and tender. The sauce is easy to make, keeps for months in the fridge, and is equally delicious on chicken and salmon.

HOISIN BARBECUE SAUCE

6 green onions 1 head garlic, cloves separated and left unpeeled 5 wide strips orange zest 1 cup (250 mL) Chinese rice wine 2 tbsp (30 mL) toasted sesame seeds ½ cup (125 mL) thinly sliced green onion, green part only

1 For hoisin barbecue sauce, whisk ingredients in a mixing bowl until combined. Transfer to an airtight container. (Sauce will keep in fridge up to 3 months.) 2 For ribs, preheat oven to 350°F (180°C). 3 Pat ribs dry with paper towel and place on a large baking sheet, meat-side down. Loosen membranes with tip of knife. Grip with paper towel and pull of. 4 In a small bowl, mix salt and fve-spice powder until they are uniformly distributed. Season ribs to taste with mixture, saving rest for another use. 5 On a large, rimmed baking sheet, make a bed of green onions, garlic, ginger and orange zest. Place ribs on top of aromatics, meat-side up. (It’s okay if ribs overlap.) Pour rice wine onto tray. Cover tightly with foil. Bake until ribs are fork-tender, 1¼ to 1½ hours. Remove foil and cool completely. Wrap ribs in plastic wrap and refrigerate up to 3 days. (Discard aromatics, but you could strain and save liquid for an Asian soup or stew.) 6 Preheat grill to medium. 7 Clean and oil barbecue grate. Baste ribs with sauce and place on grill. Flip and baste frequently until ribs are sizzling and beautifully glazed with sauce, about 20 minutes total. With a sharp chef’s knife, cut into individual ribs. Sprinkle with sesame seeds and green onions. Serve immediately. Serves 6

⅔ cup (150 mL) hoisin sauce ⅓ cup (80 mL) ketchup

Lime wedges

6 tbsp (90 mL) rice vinegar

W H AT TO S E RV E

1 For the crema, whisk all the ingredients in a mixing bowl. Transfer to an airtight container. Refrigerate at least 24 hours and up to 1 week.

1 tbsp (15 mL) soy sauce, preferably tamari 1 tbsp (15 mL) sriracha sauce (optional)

Erdinger Dunkel Weissbier

1 tbsp (15 mL) honey 2 tsp (10 mL) sesame oil 1½ tsp (7 mL) Worcestershire sauce

2 Preheat grill to high.

½ tsp (2 mL) freshly ground black pepper

3 Clean and oil barbecue grate. Place corn on grill. Cook, turning occasionally, until cooked through, 8 to 10 minutes. (Alternatively, you could boil the corn in unsalted water for

RIBS 3 racks pork back ribs (1½ to 2 lbs/750 g to 1 kg each)

LCBO 201723, 500 mL $3.45 Dunkel is a German term for dark beer. The spicy and fruity favours of wheat beer are a superb pairing for these savoury ribs.

Blanche de Chambly LCBO 927392, 6 pk $14.25 From Quebec, a wheat beer with exotic spicy notes that will create a memorable match for the seasonings in this dish.

2 tbsp (30 mL) salt

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NEW!

Same great wine, coming soon in cans!

Jacobscreek.ca

JacobsCreekCA

FA I RYL A N DS

T H E B ES T C AT C H IS R A R ELY T H E O NE YO U EXP EC T.

GoToBermuda.ca

BMD100-15005_FoodDrinkCanada_Fishing_8.875x10.875.indd 1

5/19/17 11:39 AM

C H I CKE N C LU B B U R GER S WIT H AVOCA DO MAYO This dish takes everything you love about a club sandwich and puts it into burger form. The patties will seem a bit delicate raw — ground chicken is wetter than beef — but they’ll frm up nicely on the grill. The burgers are a kid-friendly size, so if you plan to serve them exclusively to adults, divide the mixture into four and use larger buns.

7 Clean and oil barbecue grate. Grill patties until cooked through, about 5 minutes per side. While burgers are cooking, reheat bacon on grill and cut in half crosswise. 8 Smear bun bottoms generously with avocado mayo. Top with some lettuce then the patties. Top patties with 3 half-slices of bacon. Add tomato slices and season them with salt and pepper to taste. Cover with bun tops. Serve immediately. Serves 6

PATTIES 1 tbsp (15 mL) vegetable oil 1 medium onion, fnely chopped 1 large egg 1 tbsp (15 mL) Dijon mustard 1¼ lbs (625 g) ground chicken (dark meat) ¼ cup (60 mL) Italian-style bread crumbs ½ tsp (2 mL) salt ¼ tsp (1 mL) freshly ground pepper Vegetable oil for forming patties 9 large slices smoked bacon

W H AT TO S E RV E Château des Charmes Gamay Noir VQA LCBO 57349

$15.95 Ontario Gamay Noir is brimming with lively berry favours, making it the perfect choice for casual entertaining.

Louis Jadot Beaujolais-Villages VINTAGES ESSENTIALS 365924

$17.95 This is the classic French expression of Gamay, with strawberry and cherry favours that complement the salty and smoky notes of the bacon topping.

1 ripe avocado 2 tbsp (30 mL) fresh lemon juice Salt to taste 6 soft, medium-size burger buns 2 cups (500 mL) thinly sliced iceberg lettuce 6 large slices beefsteak tomato

1 For the patties, heat oil in a small frying pan over medium heat. Add onion. Cook, stirring, until tender and lightly golden, 5 to 7 minutes. Transfer to a plate to cool. 2 In a mixing bowl, lightly beat egg and Dijon. Add chicken, bread crumbs, cooled onion, salt and pepper. Mix thoroughly. Divide into 6 even balls. Using well-oiled hands, form balls into patties slightly larger than buns. Cover and refrigerate at least 4 hours and up to 1 day. 3 Preheat oven to 350°F (180°C). 4 Place bacon on parchment-lined baking sheet. Bake, flipping once, until mahogany and crisp, 25 to 30 minutes. Drain on paper towel and cool completely. (Cooked bacon will keep, covered and refrigerated, for 3 days.) 5 To make avocado “mayo,” place avocado, lemon juice and salt in food processor. Purée until smooth. Transfer to airtight container. Press plastic wrap against surface. Refrigerate up to 1 day. 6 Preheat grill to medium-high.

WATE RM E LON LIM E ADE Straight-up watermelon juice tastes pretty fat. Add lime juice and it magically becomes one of summer’s great refreshers. This drink will separate in the fridge, but a quick stir will restore it back to its former glory. To yield enough watermelon for this recipe, you will need a 4½-lb (about 2.25-kg) wedge. 8 cups (2 L) cubed seedless watermelon ⅓ cup (80 mL) fresh lime juice ¼ cup (60 mL) Simple Syrup (recipe follows) Lime wheels and mint sprigs to garnish

1 Working in batches, purée the watermelon in a blender until smooth. Strain through a fne sieve set over a large pot, discarding solids. You should have 4 cups (1 L) watermelon juice. 2 Place watermelon juice, lime juice and Simple Syrup in a pitcher. Stir to combine. Cover and chill in fridge until ready to use (up to 24 hours). 3 Stir Watermelon Limeade and pour into glasses flled with ice. Garnish with lime wheels and mint. Serves 4 to 6

SIM PLE SYRUP 1 Combine equal parts boiling water and sugar, stir until sugar has dissolved, and store in fridge until chilled.

Bermudian Chowder Bites ALL THE SUNNY SEDUCTIVE F L AVO U R S I N B E R M U DA ’ S POPULAR DISH ARE CA P T U R E D I N T H E S E G O L D E N COC K TA I L B I T E S . INGREDIENTS 8 oz (250 g) white fsh fllets, such as snapper 1 egg white 2 tbsp (30 mL) mayonnaise 2 tbsp (30 mL) Outerbridge’s sherry peppers sauce or 1 tbsp (15 mL) sherry and 1 tsp (5 mL) hot sauce 1 tsp (5 mL) each of thyme and celery salt 1/4 tsp (1 mL) each of curry and allspice 1 cup (250 mL) panko crumbs, divided 1/3 cup (80 mL) fnely chopped seeded tomato 1 tbsp (15 mL) fnely chopped parsley Vegetable oil METHOD 1 Roast fsh in a 450°F (230°C) oven for 5 minutes. In a bowl, whisk egg white with mayonnaise, sherry peppers sauce and seasonings. Stir in 1/2 cup (125 mL) panko. Let sit 20 minutes. 2 Drain cooked fsh. Pulse in a food processor until roughly ground. Knead into egg mixture with tomato and parsley. Scoop out a rounded tablespoon (23 mL). Firmly press into a compact ball. Place on wax paper lined baking sheet. Repeat with remaining mixture. Place remaining panko in a small bowl. Working with 1 bite at a time, place in panko. Pressing gently, turn to coat evenly. Return to baking sheet. Gently press to 3/4 in (2 cm) inch thickness. 3 Heat 1/4 in (0.5 cm) oil in a small skillet over medium heat. Slip in 4 bites. Cook until golden, about 40 seconds a side. Remove to a paper towel. Repeat with remaining bites, adding more oil when needed. Makes 14

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Untitled-1 1

2017-05-26 2:11 PM

Client : Johnsonville

Dimensions : 8,875” x 10,875”

Contact à l’agence : Isabelle Ouellet

CMYK

N IAGA RA FRU IT B ELT PUNCH This complex mocktail takes fruit punch on a trip down the Q.E.W. To save time, you could stir the batch in a pitcher of ice right before serving, but for a bracingly cold drink with a light texture, it’s ideal to shake each drink to order. To make a cocktail out of it, add 2 oz of vodka per drink and strain into a chilled highball glass three-quarters-flled with ice. This recipe can easily be doubled or tripled for a crowd. 1 cup (250 mL) peach nectar ¾ cup (175 mL) fresh-pressed apple juice 6 tbsp (90 mL) white grape juice 6 tbsp (90 mL) Cherry Syrup (recipe follows) ¼ cup (60 mL) strained fresh lemon juice 4 dashes orange bitters Fresh cherries and peach slices to garnish

M INI S’ MORE S SUN DAE S These sundaes may be small in size but they are layered with big flavours and contrasting textures. Do exercise some caution when torching the marshmallows, as it only takes a few seconds. Toasted marshmallow ice cream is available at select ice cream parlours, and can be found at supermarkets that carry Summers or Gelato Fresco brands.

1 In a glass pitcher or jar, stir together peach nectar, apple juice, grape juice, cherry syrup, lemon juice and bitters. Cover tightly and refrigerate up to 24 hours in advance.

CHOCOLATE SAUCE

2 For each drink, stir the mixture and pour 5½ oz into a cocktail shaker. Fill ¾ with ice. Shake until ice cold, about 10 seconds. Strain into a chilled highball glass filled with ice. Garnish with cherry and peach slice.

1½ tbsp (22 mL) unsweetened cocoa powder, sifted

Makes 4 mocktails

6 oz (175 g) semi-sweet chocolate, chopped ¾ cup (175 mL) whipping cream 3 tbsp (45 mL) light corn syrup ¾ tsp (4 mL) pure vanilla extract

SUNDAES 1½ cups (375 mL) crumbled graham crackers 2½ cups (625 mL) toasted marshmallow or vanilla ice cream 8 marshmallows

C H E R RY SY RU P This vibrant red syrup is similar to grenadine, and can be used to sweeten a wide range of beverages from iced tea to a Whisky Sour— and even an Old Fashioned. It’s a good way to use up any lightly bruised cherries at the bottom of the bag. 6 oz (175 g) cherries, stemmed ½ cup (125 mL) water ½ cup (125 mL) granulated sugar 1 wide strip lemon zest

1 In a medium saucepan, bring cherries, water and sugar to a boil over medium-high heat. Reduce to a simmer and cook 3 minutes. Remove from heat and lightly mash fruit with a potato masher. Add lemon zest. Cover and let stand 45 minutes.

1 For the chocolate sauce, place chocolate in a heatproof bowl. In a small saucepan, bring cream and corn syrup to a boil over mediumhigh heat. (Watch closely.) Remove from heat, pour hot cream mixture over chocolate and let stand 3 minutes. Whisk until smooth. Whisk in cocoa powder and vanilla. Cool completely. Transfer to an airtight container. Cover and refrigerate up to 2 weeks. 2 When ready to serve, reheat chocolate sauce in a bowl set over a simmering pan of water, or microwave for 10-second intervals on high, stirring after each interval until pourable.

2 Fine strain into a bowl, pressing gently on solids to extract syrup. Cool to room temperature. Transfer to a glass jar with lid. Refrigerate up to 1 month.

3 For each sundae, place about 2 tbsp (30 mL) of crumbed graham crackers in bottom of a 125-mL Mason jar. Drizzle some chocolate sauce over crumbs. Top with a 2½-oz (75-mL) scoop of ice cream. Drizzle with more chocolate sauce and top with 1 tbsp (15 mL) graham crackers. Wedge a marshmallow on top. Using a blowtorch, briefly char marshmallow. (Be quick to blow it out if it catches fire.) Serve immediately.

Makes 1 cup (250 mL)

Makes 8 small sundaes

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4 Preheat oven to 350°F (180°C). 5 Bake crackers, rotating trays at halfway point, until browned and just frm to touch, 12 to 14 minutes. Remove from oven and cool completely. (Crackers will keep at room tem perature in an airtight container for up to 1 week.)

S’M O R E S SA NDWIC H CO O KI E S Buttery homemade graham crackers sand wich dark chocolate ganache and fufy marsh mallow creme in a s’mores ft for a patisserie. Graham four is a coarsely ground whole wheat four that can be found at natural food stores and at supermarkets that carry Bob’s Red Mill products. ¾ cup (175 mL) graham four ¾ cup (175 mL) all-purpose four ⅓ cup (80 mL) dark brown sugar, packed ½ tsp (2 mL) baking soda ¼ tsp (1 mL) salt ½ cup (125 mL) unsalted butter, cold, diced

6 To make ganache, place chocolate in a heat proof bowl. In a small saucepan, bring cream to a boil over mediumhigh heat. (Watch closely.) Pour hot cream over chocolate and let stand 3 minutes. Whisk until smooth. Cool, whisking occasionally, until ganache has texture of very soft butter, about 1 hour. 7 Arrange graham crackers on work surface, scored sides down. On half of crackers, spread 2 tsp (10 mL) of chocolate ganache. On other half, spread 2 tsp (10 mL) of marshmallow crème. Sandwich crackers together. Serve, or place in airtight container with plastic wrap or parchment paper between each layer and refrigerate up to 2 days. Warning: some marsh mallow crème will inevitably ooze out the sides. Makes 16 sandwich cookies

1 tbsp (15 mL) honey 2 tbsp (30 mL) cold whole milk, or more as needed ½ tsp (2 mL) pure vanilla extract 4 oz (125 g) semi-sweet chocolate, chopped ½ cup (125 mL) whipping cream ¾ cup (175 mL) marshmallow crème or fuf

1 Place fours, brown sugar, baking soda and salt in the bowl of a food processor. Pulse un til combined. Add butter. Pulse until it looks like coarse meal. Add honey, milk and vanilla. Pulse until dough starts clumping together. (If it’s not sticking together, add more milk 1 tsp/5 mL at a time until it does.) 2 Transfer dough to work surface. Lightly knead 2 or 3 times to bring together. Divide in half. Form each portion into a ¾inchthick (2cm) square. Wrap in plastic wrap. Refriger ate 2 hours. 3 On a lightly foured work surface, roll each piece of dough into a 9inch (23cm) square, or about ⅛inch (3mm) thick. Using 2¼inch (5.5cm) round cookie cutter or glass, cut out crackers and place on parchmentlined bak ing trays 1inch (2.5cm) apart. Bring together scraps and repeat (you will need 16 crackers from each piece of dough). Score crackers with blunt end of a skewer. Cover and refrigerate trays for 30 minutes.

LE MON-GRAS S SH RIM P SKEW E RS W ITH SAIGON SLAW Fragrant with lemon grass and smoky from the grill, these Vietnamesestyle shrimp pair nicely with a light, crunchy salad of julienned vegetables and fresh herbs. Since napa cab bage is delicate, it’s best to dress the slaw as close to serving as possible.

SHRIMP 8 bamboo skewers, each 6 inches (15 cm) long 24 jumbo shrimp, about 1 lb (500 g)

3 tbsp (45 mL) vegetable oil ¼ cup (60 mL) thinly sliced shallot ½ lime 1 lb (500 g) napa cabbage, thinly sliced, about 8 cups (2 L) 1 medium carrot, peeled, julienned ⅓ English cucumber, julienned, patted dry with paper towel 1 cup (250 mL) cilantro leaves ½ cup (125 mL) mint leaves

1 For the shrimp, soak skewers in hot water at least 30 minutes. 2 Peel and devein shrimp, leaving tail sections intact. Rinse thoroughly under cold running water. Pat dry with paper towel. Set aside. 3 Trim and discard tough outer layers of lem on grass. Trim tops leaving only tender white and light green heart. Finely grate on rasp until you have 1 packed tbsp (15 mL). Add to shrimp with garlic, ginger and vegetable oil. Season with salt (if necessary, as most frozen shrimp are quite salty) and pepper. Drain skewers and thread 3 shrimp per skewer. Cov er and refrigerate at least 2 hours and up to 6 hours. 4 For the Saigon slaw, whisk garlic, sugar, lime juice, rice vinegar, fish sauce and vegetable oil until sugar is dissolved. Stir in shallot. Cov er and refrigerate up to 1 day. 5 Preheat grill to high. 6 Clean and oil barbecue grate. Grill shrimp until cooked through, about 2 minutes per side. Squeeze the half lime over shrimp. In a large mixing bowl, combine napa cabbage, car rot, cucumber, cilantro and mint. Add dressing. Mix gently with tongs. 7 Divide skewers and slaw among 8 small plates. Serves 8 as an appetizer

1 stalk lemon grass 2 cloves garlic, fnely grated on rasp 1 tsp (5 mL) fnely grated ginger 2 tbsp (30 mL) vegetable oil Salt and freshly ground pepper to taste

SAIGON SLAW

W H AT TO S E RV E Peninsula Ridge Sauvignon Blanc VQA LCBO 53678

$14.95 This VQA Sauvignon Blanc has characteristic herbal notes that pick up and amplify the aromas and favours of lemon grass.

1 small garlic clove, grated on rasp

Casas del Bosque Reserva Sauvignon Blanc 2015

2 tbsp (30 mL) granulated sugar

VINTAGES ESSENTIALS 974717

2 tbsp (30 mL) fresh lime juice 2 tbsp (30 mL) rice vinegar

$15.25 A favourful dish calls for a fruit-forward wine. Tropical fruit notes complement the fresh ginger and citrus essences in the dish.

3 tbsp (45 mL) Asian fsh sauce

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TRUE Colours

WHIPPED FETA 8 oz (250 g) good-quality feta 2 tbsp (30 mL) whipping cream or plain yogurt 4 to 6 tbsp (60 to 90 mL) olive oil

from page 80

1½ cups (375 mL) daikon radish cut into matchsticks ⅓ cup (80 mL) olive oil 2 tbsp (30 mL) lemon juice 1½ tsp (7 mL) dried oregano 1 tsp (5 mL) coarsely ground black pepper Salt to taste 3 slices mini seedless watermelon, each 1 inch (2.5 cm) thick, rind removed 1 red cayenne or fnger chili, halved lengthwise and thinly sliced

WH I P P E D FETA , WAT E R MELO N & RA D ISH SA L A D Feta and cool watermelon is a winning saltysweet combo. Be sure to rinse and press your feta before whipping otherwise your feta will liquefy—the fnished whipped cheese should have a deli cream-cheese-like consistency.

2 Soak daikon in a bowl of ice water while preparing the remaining ingredients. Whisk together olive oil, lemon juice, dried oregano and pepper. Lightly season with salt (feta is salty). Cut watermelon into irregular 1 to 1½-inch (2.5 to 4-cm) chunks. 3 Spread an equal amount of feta out in a scant ½-inch-thick (1 cm) layer on six small plates. Divide watermelon between plates. Drain radish and pat dry with paper towels; toss with half the dressing and top watermelon portions with an equal amount of radish. Divide remaining dressing between plates and garnish each with chili and oregano leaves. Serves 6

Fresh oregano leaves to garnish

W H AT TO S E RV E

1 Drain feta from brine if necessary and rinse under cool running water. Line a plate with several layers of paper towel, top with feta and weigh down with another plate topped with a can. Refrigerate for 1 hour. Crumble and combine in a food processor with cream and 4 tbsp (60 mL) olive oil; process until smooth. Add up to 2 tbsp (30 mL) oil, if necessary, to achieve a thick spreadable consistency.

LCBO 529354

Pelee Island Pelee Pink VQA

$11.95 The favours and colours of this dish suggest a fruity rosé wine. A hint of sweetness creates contrast with the salty whipped feta.

Remy Pannier Rosé d’Anjou LCBO 12641

$15.15 Attractive summer berry flavours complement the sweetness of watermelon and the sharp, crunchy texture of daikon radish.

W H AT E V E R T H E O C C A S I O N ,

M A K E I T M O U T H -WAT E R I N G

You don’t have to wait for a special occasion to celebrate. From classic steak dinners to appetizers you can share with friends, there’s something for everyone at The Keg.

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S E A BA S S WITH SWEET & S O U R S PA NISH PEPPER S

W H AT TO S E RV E

European sea bass, or branzino, is a mild, faky white fsh with skin that cooks up crisp and delicious over a hot grill. Served over silky flavourful peppers, the fillets make a great lunch. You can make it heartier by serving with rice or a green salad.

Jacob’s Creek Moscato Rosé Sparkling LCBO 445825

$13.95 Sparkling wines are a refreshing companion for any course, including dessert. This rosé is bursting with fruit aromas that echo the cake’s berry topping.

Kopke Fine Ruby Port

2 tbsp (30 mL) olive oil 4 large red peppers, stemmed, seeded, cut into ½ inch wide (1 cm) strips 1 tbsp (15 mL) tomato paste 5 cloves garlic, thinly sliced 2 bay leaves 4 oil-packed anchovy fllets, chopped 1 tsp (5 mL) smoked paprika ¼ cup (60 mL) sherry vinegar 1 tbsp (15 mL) sugar 1 cup (250 mL) water 4 skin-on European sea bass fllets, each 5 to 6 oz (150 to 175 g)

LCBO 35766

RASPBE RRY UPSIDE-DOW N CAKE Canadians are lucky for a whole bunch of reasons, but I’d put local fruit near the top of the list. Buy the darkest, ripest, most beautiful raspberries you can for this stunner of a cake and celebrate Canada’s birthday with each moist and delicious mouthful. 10 tbsp (150 mL) softened unsalted butter, plus extra for the pan

Salt and freshly ground black pepper

1 cup (250 mL) sugar, divided

1 Heat oil over medium-high in a large skillet; add peppers and cook, stirring occasionally, for 5 to 6 minutes, until peppers are lightly golden. Stir in tomato paste and garlic; cook until tomato paste is caramelized, 3 to 4 minutes longer.

1¼ cups (310 mL) all-purpose four

2 Add bay leaves, anchovy, smoked paprika, sherry vinegar, sugar and water; stir to dissolve sugar. Bring to a boil, reduce heat to low, cover and simmer for 18 to 20 minutes (checking on moisture periodically—if pan becomes dry, add a small quantity of water to prevent scorching), or until peppers are very soft and sauce is thickened and glossy. 3 Preheat grill to 400°F (200°C). 4 Season fsh with salt and pepper. Grill, skinside down, with the lid closed for 6 to 7 minutes or until skin is crisp and fsh is opaque. Turn peppers out onto a platter or divide between individual plates and top with fsh. Serves 4

W H AT TO S E RV E Creekside Pinot Grigio VQA LCBO 83196

$15.10 This brilliantly balanced Ontario Pinot Grigio has a crisp texture and citrus favours that make it a perfect pairing for fsh.

Rene Barbier Mediterranean White, Catalunya LCBO 332767

$10.10 Lemon zest and foral notes give this stylish Spanish white wine an afnity for both the fsh and the favourful peppers.

$15.30 A fne ruby port ofers an impression of freshly picked fruit that melds seamlessly with the ripe raspberry favour of the cake.

3 cups (750 mL) ripe raspberries 1¼ tsp (6 mL) baking powder ¼ tsp (1 mL) baking soda ¼ tsp (1 mL) salt 1 large egg, plus 1 egg yolk ¾ cup (175 mL) sour cream ½ tsp (2 mL) almond extract 1 tsp (5 mL) orange zest Whipped cream to serve

1 Preheat oven to 350°F (180°C). 2 Butter an 8-inch (20-cm) round cake pan with butter and sprinkle bottom only with ¼ cup (60 mL) of the sugar. Arrange raspberries in cake pan, hollow-side up, until bottom is completely covered; set aside. 3 In a bowl, whisk together the four, baking powder, baking soda and salt. 4 In a separate large bowl, beat 10 tbsp (150 mL) butter and remaining ¾ cup (175 mL) sugar with an electric mixer until fufy. Beat in egg, egg yolk, sour cream, almond extract and orange zest. Reduce speed, add four mixture and beat until just combined. 5 Pour over raspberries and bake for 50 to 60 minutes or until a toothpick inserted into centre comes out clean. Remove to a rack and let cool for 1 hour. Cover pan with a large fat serving plate and turn cake out onto plate. Slice into 8 pieces and serve with a dollop of whipped cream. Serves 8

STRAW BERRY & CO CO NU T SE MIFRE D D O Warm celebratory days call for something cool to eat—made better if it’s a little sweet and includes strawberries, too. This easy-tomake semifreddo is a bit like your favourite strawberry ice cream, but without the need for an ice-cream maker. It’s a great place to use those strawberries that are almost too ripe to eat out of hand. If your freezer has adjustable temperature, just below the freezing point is ideal. 2 cups (500 mL) chopped strawberries 3 tbsp (45 mL) sugar 1 can (400 mL) coconut milk 1 can (300 mL) sweetened condensed milk 2 cups (500 mL) whipping cream ½ cup (125 mL) toasted coconut fakes

1 Combine strawberries and sugar in blender or food processor; liquefy. Turn out into a medium pot over medium heat and bring to a boil; reduce to low and simmer for 5 minutes, or until glossy and thick. Remove from heat and let cool to room temperature. 2 Meanwhile, bring coconut milk to a boil in a separate pot over medium heat; reduce to ½ cup (125 mL), 8 to 10 minutes. Pour into a large mixing bowl and whisk in sweetened condensed milk; let cool to room temperature.

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3 When re a dy to ass emble, whip cream to stiff peaks. Fold one-third of cream into coconut milk mixture to lighten, then follow with the remainder of the crea m; pour into a 6 to 8-cup-capacity (1.5 to 2-L) serving dish. Spoon reserved strawberry mixture over and, u sing a spatula, gently fold in until marbled. Sprinkle coconut flakes over and freeze for 4 hours or until firm. Spoon or scoop into chilled bowls to serve.

tsp (5 mL) garam masala

11/z tsp (7 mL) ground turmeric 1 % tsp 1

(6 mL) ground cumin

tsp (5 mL) ground coriander

11/z cups (375 mL) water 2

to 3 tbsp (30 to 45 mL) lime juice

1% tsp (6 mL) salt

Freshly ground pepper to taste CASf-li::::W CRi::::AM

Serves 8 to 10

l/z cup (125 mL) raw cashews, soaked overnight in enough water to cover % cup (60 mL) water

WHAT TO SERVE

Patron Citronge i::::xtra f=ine Lime Liqueur LCBO 439539

$33.1 5

Vibrant and aromatic natural lime is a flavour enhancer, and in this pairing it boosts both the strawberry and coconut flavours of the semifreddo. Chantilly f=rench Cream LCB0 4 24044

$30.05

Strawberries and cream is a classic pairing. This liqueur creates a sense of luxury, yet it's light enough on the palate that it will not overwhelm the dessert.

tbsp (30 mL) lime juice

% tsp (1 mL) salt 1

small clove garlic

1 Using a coarse box grater set over a large bowl, press cut side of tomatoes against holes and grate fle sh; discard skins. Set as ide. 2 Heat oil in a large pot over medium hea t; fry onion until light golden, 6 to 7 minutes. Stir in g a rlic, ginger, cayenne or chili, and cook 1 minute longer. Add spices and stir to combine. Pour grated tomatoes, water, 2 tbsp (30 mL) lime juice over and season with salt. Boil for 30 minutes, covered. Us ing a blender, puree. Season with pepper to t aste and add final 1 tbsp (15 mL) lime juice only if necessary. Chill overnight.

3 Meanwhile, make the cashew cream: combine cashews, water, lime juice, salt and garlic in a blender and process until very s mooth; refrig e rate until ready to s erve the soup.

C~ILL~D

CURRY TOMATO

SOUP WIT~ CAS~~W CR~Atv1 Cold soup is one of my favourite things about summer. This one takes advantage of gorgeous local and seasonal plum tomatoes (really the only kind worth eating at a ll) and pairs them with raw cashew cream for a virtuous vegan soup that will satisfy everyone. 21/z (10

lbs (1.25 kg) ripe plum tomatoes to 12 tomatoes), halved

tbsp (30 mL) grape-seed or sunflower oil

Vidalia, or other sweet onion, chopped

cloves garlic, finely chopped or grated

tsp (10 mL) finely grated ginger

small fresh cayenne, or l/z bird's-eye chili, seeded and chopped

4 Divide soup between 6 chilled bowls a nd serve each with a swirl of the cream.

Serves 6

WHAT TO SERVE

Sandbanks Summer White VQA

LCBO 41474 8

$15.1 0

Light sweetness is the key to pairing wine with curry. This aromatic white blend also has enough acidity to balance the natural acidity of tomatoes. Ironstone Obsession Symphony LCBO 295931

$15.1 0

The Symphony grape variety creates a wine with an expressive floral bouquet. Combined with balanced sweetness, this match hits all the right notes.

the syrian TABLE from page 111

T RAY KIB B EH Tray kibbeh is easier and less time-consuming than making individual little packages stufed with ground meat. It is a shortcut often used by Syrian homemakers. If you want to top this kibbeh with tomatoes instead of a double layer of pastry, make half of the kibbeh pastry recipe, top the flling with slices of tomato and continue with the recipe. Bulgur comes in different thicknesses. For kibbeh you want the fnest bulgur. For other dishes you would use medium. Syrians use ghee, but butter and oil give a similar efect. This is Muna and Maryam’s recipe. They use a lot of ground pepper, but season it as you like it. They do not use a food processor, but knead the pastry by hand by placing a large bowl on the foor, sitting down and kneading together. The food processor works well. This is served with labneh, which is Syrian (or Balkan) yogurt and the Syrian Salad (recipe this page).

FILLING 2 tbsp (30 mL) butter 2 tbsp (30 mL) vegetable oil 4 cups (1 L) chopped onions ¼ tsp (1 mL) salt 1 lb (500 g) ground beef

SEASONING Salt to taste 1 tbsp (15 mL) Baharat Spice Mixture (recipe follows) ½ tsp (2 mL) ground black pepper, optional

KIBBEH PASTRY 1 cup (250 mL) fne bulgur wheat 2 cups (500 mL) warm water 6 oz (175 g) ground beef ¾ cup (175 mL) grated onion 1 tbsp (15 mL) ground cumin 2 tsp (10 mL) ground pepper 1 tsp (5 mL) salt 1 tsp (5 mL) allspice ¼ cup (60 mL) all-purpose four

GARNISH 1 cup (250 mL) pine nuts 2 tbsp (30 mL) chopped mint

1 Heat butter and oil together in a skillet on medium heat. Add onions and season lightly with ¼ tsp (1 mL) salt. Sauté onions until tender, about 5 to 7 minutes. Add ground beef and cook, stirring to break up the meat, about 2 minutes. Once the meat is crumbled, add

salt, Baharat Spice Mixture and pepper. Cover and reduce heat to medium-low. Continue to cook until meat and onions are very tender, about 15 to 20 minutes. Cool and reserve for flling the pastry. 2 Preheat oven to 350°F (180°C). 3 Place bulgur in a large bowl. Cover with warm water. Cover with a lid and let sit for 30 minutes, adding more warm water if the bulgur seems to be dry. Drain the bulgur. Place it in a food processor and pulse a few times. Add uncooked ground beef, onion, cumin, pepper, salt and allspice. Process until it comes together, about 1 minute. Add four and continue to process until it is a sticky mass, about 1 minute more. Press half of pastry into a 10 x 14-inch (25 x 35-cm) rectangular baking dish or 10-inch (23-cm) round cake pan. Spread cooked flling over pastry. Top with remaining pastry, patting together small pieces to make a thin, even layer. Score the top of the kibbeh pastry into squares for easier cutting. Place a few pine nuts into each square. 4 Bake for 35 to 45 minutes or until lightly browned around the edges and the crust is cooked through. Edges will begin to pull away from sides of the pan. Rest for 15 minutes before slicing. Sprinkle with mint and cut into squares. Serves 6

Beronia Rioja Reserva $20.95

Charles Tort Old Vines Côtes du Rhône LCBO 424168

This salad is served with the kibbeh and with many other Syrian dishes. Syrian cucumbers are the small, crunchier type, sometimes called Persian, rather than the larger English variety. You can omit the yogurt and if so, increase the lemon juice to 1 tbsp (15 mL).

DRESSING 2 tbsp (30 mL) thick yogurt 2 tbsp (30 mL) olive oil 2 tsp (10 mL) lemon juice 2 tsp (10 mL) chopped fresh mint ½ tsp (2 mL) ground cumin Salt and freshly ground pepper

VEGETABLES 3 tomatoes, chopped 4 small cucumbers, chopped 4 green onions, thinly sliced 3 tbsp (45 mL) chopped Italian parsley 1 green pepper, diced (optional)

1 Combine yogurt, olive oil, lemon juice, mint and cumin in a mixing bowl until smooth. Season to taste with salt and pepper. Toss with tomatoes, cucumber, green onion, parsley and green pepper (if using). Serves 6

W H AT TO S E RV E VINTAGES ESSENTIALS 50203

SYRIAN SA L A D

$13.90

BAH ARAT SP ICE M IXTURE Make your own Baharat Spice Mixture with this recipe. Store-bought versions are often sold as seven-spice mixture and are available online and in Middle Eastern grocery stores. 2 tsp (10 mL) ground allspice 2 tsp (10 mL) ground cumin 1 tsp (5 mL) freshly ground pepper 1 tsp (5 mL) ground coriander ½ tsp (2 mL) cinnamon ½ tsp (2 mL) ground nutmeg ½ tsp (2 mL) ground cardamom ¼ tsp (1 mL) ground cloves

PERFECT pairings from page 41

SOUR CRE A M I C E C REA M This ice cream has so few ingredients and so few steps that it’s virtually foolproof. An icecream machine does all the real work. ⅓ cup (80 mL) whipping cream ¾ cup (175 mL) sugar 1 container (500 mL) sour cream 2 tsp (10 mL) lemon juice

1 In a small saucepan, combine the whipping cream and sugar and heat to dissolve the sugar completely. Whisk this mixture into the sour cream, followed by the lemon juice.

1 Combine all the spices. Keep in an airtight container in the cupboard for up to 6 months.

2 Chill the mixture completely then freeze in an ice-cream machine according to the manufacturer’s instructions.

Makes about 3 tbsp (45 mL)

Makes 3 cups (750 mL)

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4 For the crumble, combine the dry ingredients in a bowl. Add the butter and work in with your fngertips. Set aside. 5 Keep the oven rack in the lowest position and the oven at 350°F (180°C).

STONE FRUIT CRUMBLE PIE A variety of Ontario stone fruits come together in this crumble pie. The crumble may look like a lot, but go ahead and use it all—no one will complain. For the toasted wheat germ, I use the Kretschmer brand sold in jars in grocery stores.

6 Combine the sliced fruit in a large bowl. Add the lemon juice and mix gently. In a small bowl, whisk together the sugar and cornstarch, then add to the fruit mixture. Mix gently. Turn the mixture into the cooled pie shell, mounding it slightly in the centre. Top with the crumble. Bake the pie for 1 hour, or until the crumble is golden brown and the fruit is bubbling. Cool completely on a wire rack and serve with Honey Vanilla Semifreddo (recipe follows).

¼ cup (60 mL) granulated sugar ¼ cup (60 mL) dark brown sugar ¼ cup plus 2 tbsp (90 mL) toasted wheat germ ¾ cup (175 mL) rolled oats ½ cup (125 mL) all-purpose four ½ tsp (2 mL) cinnamon

W H AT TO S E RV E Jack Daniel’s Honey LCBO 260323

$34.15

Cave Spring Indian Summer Select Late Harvest Riesling VINTAGES 415901, 375 mL

$24.95

Pinch nutmeg ½ cup (125 mL) unsalted butter, cut into ¼ inch (5 mm) pieces

FRUIT FILLING 6 cups (1.5 L) assorted stone fruits such as apricots, nectarines and red, yellow and black plums, pitted and sliced ¼ inch (5 mm) thick 2 tsp (10 mL) fresh lemon juice ½ cup (125 mL) sugar ¼ cup (60 mL) cornstarch

1 On a lightly foured work surface, roll the dough to a 12-inch (30-cm) circle and transfer to a 9-inch (23-cm) pie plate. Fold the overhang under itself so it is sitting on the rim of the pie plate and crimp decoratively. Refrigerate for 1 hour. 2 Place the oven rack in the lowest position and preheat the oven to 400°F (200°C). 3 Prick the bottom of the pie shell with a fork then line with foil, making sure to fold the foil completely over the top edge. Fill with pie weights (dried beans) building them up the sides. Bake for 20 to 25 minutes or until the sides are dry and set. Remove from oven and reduce temperature to 350°C (180°C). Remove the foil and weights and place the pie shell back in the oven. Bake until the crust is completely dry and beginning to take on colour, 15 to 20 minutes. Cool on a wire rack.

After making the raspberry purée and freezing the ice-cream base in an ice-cream machine, layer them alternately in a container. The swirls will appear as you form the scoops. In a pinch, you can use frozen, unsweetened raspberries for the purée. 2 cups (500 mL) fresh raspberries ½ cup (125 mL) sugar 1¼ cups (310 mL) whole milk 1¼ cups (310 mL) whipping cream ½ cup (125 mL) sugar, divided 5 yolks 1 tsp (5 mL) vanilla

1 Combine the raspberries and sugar in a saucepan and place over medium heat. Simmer, stirring frequently until the liquid has reduced and the mixture has thickened, about 20 minutes.

Serves 8 to 10

½ recipe All Butter Pie Pastry (recipe page 171)

CRUMBLE

RASPBE RRY SWI RL ICE CRE A M

H ONEY VANILLA SE MIFRE DDO Use your favourite honey to favour this icecream-like dessert. It comes together quickly, and no ice-cream machine is required, but it needs to be frozen overnight, so should be prepared one day before being served with the pie. 4 egg yolks 6 tbsp (90 mL) wildfower honey ½ vanilla bean 1 cup plus 2 tbsp (280 mL) whipping cream

1 In a medium bowl, whisk together the egg yolk and honey. Split the vanilla bean in half lengthwise and scrape the black seeds into the yolk-honey mixture. Add the pod. Place the bowl over a pot of simmering water, making sure the bottom of the bowl does not touch the water. Whisk the mixture until it has thickened, is light in colour and hot to the touch. Remove from heat, discard the vanilla pod and cool completely.

2 Remove from heat and cool slightly. Purée the berries until smooth, then strain, pressing on the solids. Chill the purée before layering in the ice cream. 3 For the ice-cream mixture, combine the milk, cream and ¼ cup (60 mL) of the sugar in a saucepan and bring just to a simmer. In a medium bowl, whisk together the yolks and the remaining sugar until smooth. 4 Whisking constantly, slowly pour the heated milk-cream mixture into the yolks, being sure to whisk around the sides of the bowl, dissolving all the sugar. 5 Pour the mixture back into the saucepan. Set over low-medium heat, stirring slowly and continuously with a wooden spoon until the custard thickens and coats the back of the spoon. Do not allow the custard to reach a simmer. 6 Remove from heat and strain through a fne sieve into a clean bowl. Add the vanilla then chill the mixture thoroughly over an ice bath. Refrigerate for at least 2 hours or overnight.

2 Beat the whipping cream to stif peaks and fold into the honey mixture. Transfer to a container, cover and freeze overnight.

7 Freeze the custard in an ice-cream machine according to the manufacturer’s instructions. Once churned, transfer about ⅕ of the ice cream to a 4-cup (1-L) container and level the surface. Top with about ⅕ of the raspberry puree in an even layer. Continue layering the ice cream and puree, fnishing with a thin layer of ice cream on top. Cover and freeze until frm, about 4 hours or overnight.

Makes 3 cups (750 mL)

Makes 4 cups (1 L)

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CA N D I E D A LMO ND S E M IF R E D D O This frozen dessert is creamy, sweet and crunchy all at the same time— like an ice cream, but no machine is required.

CANDIED ALMONDS ¼ cup (60 mL) sugar 2 tbsp (30 mL) water 1 pkg (100 g) slivered almonds

SEMIFREDDO 5 egg yolks ¼ cup (60 mL) sugar 3 tbsp (45 mL) Amaretto Disaronno ¼ tsp (1 mL) almond extract 1 cup (250 mL) whipping cream

1 For the candied almonds, line a baking sheet with parchment paper and set aside. Place the sugar in a small saucepan. Add the water on top but do not stir. Cover the pot and place over medium-high heat. Once the sugar is dissolved and the liquid comes to a boil, remove the lid. Continue boiling to 225°F (110°C) or just until the edges of the liquid begin to take on colour. 2 Off the heat, add the almonds all at once and stir with a wooden spoon. Place the pot back over low-medium heat and continue stirring. The nuts will clump together and the sugar will crystallize. Continue stirring until the nuts have separated and are golden brown. Transfer to the parchment-lined baking sheet and cool completely. 3 For the semifreddo, combine the egg yolks, sugar, Amaretto Disaronno and almond extract in a medium bowl. Place the bowl over a pot of simmering water, making sure the bottom of the bowl does not touch the water. Whisk the mixture constantly until it is aerated, light in colour and hot to the touch. Remove from heat and cool completely over an ice bath or in the fridge. 4 Beat the whipping cream to stiff peaks and fold into the cooled yolk mixture. Fold in about two-thirds of the candied almonds. Transfer the mixture to a container, cover and freeze overnight. Top with a few extra almonds when serving. Makes 3 cups (750 mL)

ALL BUT TE R P IE PASTRY This classic pastry can be used for a variety of pies, large and small. It makes enough for a double crust pie, but if you’re making a single crust, and you’re like me, you’ll make the full recipe and freeze the second piece for another time. You’ll be happy to have one on hand the next time around. For the Fresh Fig and Raspberry Galette on page 46, do not divide the dough in half. It may seem to be too much, but it gets rolled out into a large circle. For the Peach and Redcurrant Slab Pie on page 48, double the recipe and divide into two rectangles, about 5 x 7 inches (12 x 18 cm). And for the Wild Blueberry Hand Pies on page 42, substitute half the all-purpose four with cake four, divide the dough in half and shape into two 4 x 4-inch (10 x 10-cm) squares. 2½ cups (625 mL) all-purpose four 1 tbsp (15 mL) sugar 1 tsp (5 mL) salt 1 cup (250 mL) cold, unsalted butter, cut into ½ inch (1 cm) pieces 5 to 6 tbsp (75 to 90 mL) ice water

1 In a large bowl, whisk together the flour, sugar and salt. Add the butter pieces and toss to coat with four. With your fngertips or a pastry blender, work the butter into the four until the mixture resembles coarse meal. Some peasized pieces of butter should still be visible. 2 Drizzle 5 tbsp (75 mL) of ice water over the four mixture and toss with a spatula or your hands until the water is incorporated. Gently squeeze the dough with your hands to bring it together. If the dough does not hold together, add more ice water in small increments, up to 1 more tbsp (15 mL). 3 On the work surface, gently pat the dough out to a rough rectangle about ½ inch (1 cm) thick. Fold the dough in half, and rotate the dough 90 degrees. Repeat the pressing and folding 1 or 2 more times until the dough comes together. 4 For 1 double crust pie, divide the dough in half and form into 2 fat discs. Wrap in plastic wrap and fatten a little more with your rolling pin. Refrigerate at least 2 hours, or preferably overnight. Makes 1 double crust pie, or 2 single crust pies

FRESH NEW LOOK. SAME GREAT TASTE. It’s what’s on the inside that counts — and what’s inside features the hopped up citrus ﬂavour of an IPA with the full malt ﬂavour of an amber lager. Must be legal drinking age. Available at select LCBO outlets.

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L E M O N -LIME S HER B ET

GET BAKED

It’s time to get that ice-cream machine out of the cupboard. This sherbet is so refreshing— even better than an ice-cold glass of fresh lemonade.

½ cup (125 mL) fresh lemon juice

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½ cup (125 mL) fresh lime juice

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¾ cup (175 mL) sugar ¾ cup (175 mL) water Zest of 1 lemon and 2 limes

¾ cup (175 mL) whole milk

1 Combine the sugar and water in a small saucepan and bring to a boil. Remove from heat and cool to room temperature. 2 Add the lemon and lime zests to the syrup. 3 Whisk in the lemon and lime juices along with the milk. Refrigerate the mixture for 2 hours or overnight. 4 Strain the mixture then freeze in an icecream maker according to the manufacturer’s instructions. Makes 4 cups (1 L)

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STAY A WHILE innatbayfortune.com fogoislandinn.ca fairmont.com/pacifc-rim-vancouver fourseasons.com/whistler mlsarchitects.ca/shobac www.kingsbrae.com arowhonpines.ca 124queen.com sookeharbourhouse.com wickinn.com pacifcsands.com drakedevonshire.ca fairmont.com/montebello saint-antoine.com/en/ posthotel.com ritzcarlton.com/en/hotels/canada/montreal hotellestjames.com wildretreat.com fourseasons.com/toronto fairmont.com/laurier-ottawa

TIPPLE TIME

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benjaminbridge.com thebxpress.com thisisbarraval.com missionhillwinery.com niagarawinefestival.com

172 F OO D & DR I N K SUMMER 2017

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2017-05-16 1:14 PM

THE

$17

SOLUTION Remove the guesswork from your entertaining equation with these great-value wines hand-picked by our experts for their quality and character. Meet me in Provence This crisp, fresh rosé will whisk you away to the sunny south of France with its bright foral, citrus and red berry notes and classic Provence fnesse. “Mimi” is an affectionate nickname in Provence, ftting for a wine so enchanting. Try it with grilled chicken. MIMI EN PROVENCE GRANDE RÉSERVE ROSÉ 2016 AP Côtes de Provence, France 452573 (XD) 750 mL Medium-bodied & Dry

Just $17 High-altitude Attitude This wine comes from Tupungato, a region high in the Andes foothills (it was grown at 4,000 feet above sea level, to be precise) that’s known for its premium quality. It’s juicy and elegant with dark berry and smoke favours – perfect for burgers hot off the grill. FINCA SOPHENIA RESERVE MALBEC2014 Gualtallary, Tupungato, Uco Valley, Mendoza, Argentina 66837 (D) 750 mL Full-bodied & Smooth

93 points (jamessuckling.com)

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2017-05-18 9:42 PM

RECIPE INDEX

The following is a listing of the recipes contained in this issue. For recipes from previous issues, visit foodanddrink.ca.

148

APPETIZERS Zucchini Dip Fresh Cod Cakes Salt Cod Cakes Grilled Clams, Chilies & Bread Crumbs Balsamic-Stewed Plums with Grilled Camembert Grilled Panela with Salsa Morita

112 147 147 151 154 154

Green Onion & Ricotta Gougères Grilled Radishes with Caviar Butter Horseradish Rare-Beef Toasts West-Coast Shrimp Devilled Eggs Lemon-Grass Shrimp Skewers with Saigon Slaw

156 156 156 157 164

SALADS, SOUP & CONDIMENTS Korean Fried Chicken Sauce Nashville Hot Chicken Sauce Grilled Romaine with Toasted Cumin Vinaigrette Blistered Tomato & Corn Salad with Salami Vinaigrette Hand Blender Mayo Mexican Street Corn Salad Whipped Feta, Watermelon & Radish Salad Chilled Curry Tomato Soup with Cashew Cream Baharat Spice Mixture Syrian Salad

60 60 148 150 157 158 165 167 168 168

MAIN COURSES Pan-Fried Pickerel with Hazelnut Brown Butter Prosciutto-Wrapped Perch with Chunky Guacamole Barbecued Spicy Trout with Vine-Ripened Tomatoes Syrian Lentil & Pasta Stew Classic Southern Buttermilk Fried Chicken Maple Mustard-Glazed Peameal Bacon Barbecue Roast

64 66 68 114 143 146

DRINKS, COCKTAILS & MIXES Crafty Rye & Ginger

Barbecued Planked Chicken Nachos

148

DIY Yakitori Party

150

Flat-Top Porterhouse & Smoky Steak Sauce

152

Jerk Chicken Sandwiches

152

Smoked Tomato & Griddled Provolone Sandwiches

153

The Perfect Burger

154

Gremolata Rainbow Trout with Coconut Curry Sauce

155

Hoisin-Glazed Ribs with Sesame and Scallions

158

Chicken Club Burgers with Avocado Mayo

161

Sea Bass with Sweet & Sour Spanish Peppers

166

Tray Kibbeh

168

DESSERTS & BAKED GOODS Wild Blueberry Hand Pies

Sour Cherry Pie

Fresh Fig and Raspberry Galette

Peach and Redcurrant Slab Pie

Canada Day Strawberry Shortcake

144

Platter Strawberry Jam

144

Sour Cream Biscuits

144

Butter Tarts

146

Easy Butter Pastry

146

136

Light Pina Colada

138

Lillet Spritz

140

Capo Punch

144

Honey Syrup

144

Italian Paloma

144

Weekend in Montenegro

144

Arctic Rye & Ginger

157

Ginger Maple Syrup

157

Simple Syrup

161

Watermelon Limeade (non-alcoholic)

161

Cherry Syrup

163

Niagara Fruit Belt Punch (non-alcoholic)

163

72 SOURCE RESOURCE Items photographed, but not listed, are from personal collections.

Mini S’mores Sundaes

163

NEIGHBOURHOOD FEAST

S’mores Sandwich Cookies

164

Raspberry Upside-Down Cake

166

Pages 72 & 73 Red metal chairs, from Jetco, jetcomfg.com.

Strawberry & Coconut Semifreddo

166

Sour Cream Ice Cream

168

Honey Vanilla Semifreddo

170

Raspberry Swirl Ice Cream

170

Stone Fruit Crumble Pie

170

All Butter Pie Pastry

171

Candied Almond Semifreddo

171

Lemon-Lime Sherbet

172

134

Blackberry Shrub

Page 74 Canadian pennants, from Drake General Store, drakegeneralstore.ca.

FIVE QUESTIONS WITH… Page 176 Red chair, Lyla Arm Chair from EQ3, eq3.com.

174 F OO D & DR I N K SUMMER 2017

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Your ultimate culinary destination this summer.

stlawrencemarket.com

FIVE qUESTIONS WITH… BY CYNTHIA DAVID

•

PHOTOGRAPHY BY ROB FIOCCA

WAYNE MORRIS, CHEF AND CO-OWNER BORALIA, TORONTO, BORALIATO.COM

hef Wayne Morris has cooked from Halifax to Kelowna, B.C. He was raised in Nova Scotia, where he learned to fsh, hunt and raise animals at an early age. The Acadian and Metis meals prepared by his mother and grandmother made him appreciate the history behind early Canadian dishes, a theme he and his wife, Evelyn Wu, explore at their three-year-old restaurant, Boralia, in downtown Toronto.

Boralia is derived from one of the names suggested for Canada at the time of Confederation. We could all have been Borealians! What surprised you most when you began to research Canadian dishes from the past? The broadness of the spectrum. It can include anything, really, from the foods of the First Nations to the French settlers, from the Chinese who came for the Gold Rush to the British. What does the term Canadian cuisine mean to you?

New Canadians adapt their traditional foods using available ingredients. At Boralia, we do the same thing modernizing foods early Canadians would have eaten.

Canadian cuisine refects the melting pot of cultures and nationalities of the people who built this country. It’s a mix of the dishes people brought with them when they immigrated here and how they’ve adapted based on available ingredients and the infuence of their traditional foods and culture.

At Boralia am I really eating something early Canadians would have eaten? We take the main ingredients from the original recipe and prepare them in a modern way. Pemmican, for example, was essentially a protein bar made with dried game meat pounded and mixed with melted animal fat, berries and nuts. We dry bison in the tradition of bresaola, add torched house-made lardo for fat and dress it with a juniper and wild-blueberry vinaigrette. Where do you go from here? As the restaurant evolves and we learn what diners are eager to try, I go back to my cookbook collection. Recipes I may have dismissed before jump out at me every time I look at them with fresh eyes. My current favourite Canadian cookbook is Out of Old Nova Scotia Kitchens by the late Halifax food writer Marie Nightingale, first published in 1970.

SEE SOURCE RESOURCE

Where does the name Boralia come from?

176 F OO D & DR I N K SUMMER 2017

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2017-05-25 3:22 PM

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2017-05-26 1:23 PM

Hungry for adventure? The 2017 Tucson

When equipped with available Autonomous Emergency Braking.

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Food & Drink - Summer 2017

Articles inside

BEER

STAPLES

BASICS

TRENDSPOTTING

EDITOR’S NOTES

SPIRITS

A SPLASH OF BEER

MUST-HAVES