Ceviche de Pescado
The thrill of discovery
Pollo a la Brasa
!/4Ř. -1$)".Ř ) Ř$)/ ). Ř òŘ 1*-.Ř2 ' *( Ř4*0Ř$)Ř Don Andres.
in a nutshell
I
t’s not every day that you find a Peruvian restaurant in Metro Manila. A glance at the menu will reveal what you’ll experience: big, bold flavors. Peruvian cuisine, after all, is a reflection of the bounty from the country’s three geographical regions (the coast, the Andes mountains, and the jungle) and a number of foreign influences. For starters, order the Ceviche de Pescado— Peru’s national dish and a great introduction to its cuisine. Bite-sized chunks of fresh, raw mahi-mahi sit on top of a lime marinade, and are paired with red onion, sweet potato, corn, and canchas (lightly salted toasted corn kernels that resemble popcorn seeds). Toss everything together before digging in to get a symphony of flavors and textures— chewy, tender, moist, and crunchy all in one bite, finished off with the slight heat and fresh tang from the cilantro-lime base. Another standout is the Pulpo al Olivo. Layer a thin, sashimi-like slice of octopus tentacle on a saltine cracker then smear everything with the black olive sauce. The result: a subtly briny, creamy treat for your taste buds. Move on to the main course with a serving of Pollo a la Brasa. Fast becoming Don Andres’s
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signature dish, the rotisserie chicken gets its bold flavor from being marinated in a secret combination of spices and seasonings for 24 hours. Its glossy brown skin and moist, tender meat effortlessly balance peppery, smoky, slightly salty, and tangy flavors. Give it an extra spicyherby kick by dipping it in a trio of sauces: chimichurri, aji verde, and chili mayo. The Arroz con Mariscos is comfort food that inspires midnight cravings. A rich, paella-cum-risottolike dish, it gets its color from the spices that boldly season it, while its texture is courtesy of the seafood and vegetables tucked under the rice grains. In the mood for plain white rice? Pair it with the Lomo Saltado (a stir-fry of juicy tenderloin strips and vegetables in a savory brown sauce) or the Pescado al Ajillo (flaky white fish in olive oil, pepped up by lemon and garlic). The beef entrée delivers assertive flavors, while the fish displays a certain subtlety. And if you only have room for one dessert, go for the Tres Leches, a slice of pound cake swimming in a lake of milk. It’s that kind of melt-in-yourmouth treat that leaves a lasting impression—a sweet reward for daring to try something different.
DON ANDRES 26 Courtyard Building, Sgt. Esguerra Street, Quezon City; tel. no. 364-4145 and mobile no. 0916-4067000 MUST-TRIES Ceviche de Pescado (P280), Pulpo al Olivo (P290), Pollo a la Brasa (P165 for quarter, P330 for half, P650 for whole), Lomo Saltado (P420), Pescado al Ajillo (P420), Tres Leches (P165) THUMBS UP Complete the experience with an authentic imported Peruvian drink. The Inca Kola (P175) is a light, fizzy beverage that tastes mildly like bubblegum; the Pisco sour (P395) is great for cocktail hour.
PHOTOGRAPHY: ALDWIN ASPILLERA. PICTORIAL DIRECTION: REGINE RAFAEL.
REVIEW BY ANNA FELIPE
