How to be a Size-Inclusive Brand Handbook

HOW TO BE A SIZEINCLUSIVE BRAND HANDBOOK

BY LAUREN LOCKHART

HOW TO BE A SIZE-INCLUSIVE BRAND H ANDBOOK

Fashion industry guidelines for developing or adapting a brand strategy to successfully target women of all sizes

By Lauren Lockhart

TABLE OF CONTENTS INTRODUCTION 1 DESIGN 3 SIZING 7 PRICING 11 CUSTOMIZATION 13

CONSUMER EDUCATION 17 PLACEMENT 19 PROMOTION 23 LEADERSHIP 27 RESOURCES 29

INTRODUCTION

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he fashion and apparel industry sits on the edge of plus-size inclusion within its greater scope. Brands that choose to embrace this long-neglected consumer have the potential to significantly grow sales, brand loyalty, and market share—a difficult task in this oversaturated industry.

However, true integration of the plus-size consumer entails more than just extending sizes; it requires thoughtful design, strategic product development, and authentic marketing endeavors.

It is important to understand that this handbook is not focused on plus-size brand extensions, but rather the full inclusion of the plus-size consumer within a brand’s regular product mix: this concept is the core of size inclusivity.

The purpose of this handbook is to outline the strategic changes that must occur within a company’s framework in order to successfully capitalize on the plussize market gap. By comprehensively tapping into what this consumer needs, companies can equip themselves with the strategies necessary to generate long-term success and profitability.

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DESIGN

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he plus-size consumer must be considered during the design process, for it has been demonstrated that simply sizing up straight-size designs does not always work. However, this does not mean that a designer needs to drastically alter their aesthetic; rather, they should maintain their unique viewpoint while being aware of the diverse body types of the female population.

PROPORTION IS EVERYTHING

The key word for plus-size design is proportion. All women carry their weight in different areas, and plus-size women in particular cover a range of proportions that do not mesh with a one-stye-fits-all approach to design.

A study by Shop Your Shape of more than 6,000 U.S. women has determined eight main body types for women regardless of size. Within these eight types are four core body types that represent the most common ways in which women are proportioned. These four core types are outlined in Figure 1.

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Figure 1: Four Main Female Body Types Shape Straight Pear Hourglass Inverted Triangle

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Image

Description

% of women

Bust and hips are proportionate with a less defined waist

46%

Hips are larger than bust with a sloping waist

20%

Bust and hips are proportionate with a defined waist Bust is large with small hips and a less defined waist

8%

14%

shopyourshape.com

A designer cannot suit all body types with each design, but these proportions are important to consider when conceptualizing garments. It is especially important to note that not all plus-size women carry their weight in the same places, so what fits a bottom-heavy woman may not work on a top-heavy woman.

The most common body type is the straight figure, with 46 percent of women carrying their weight in their midsection, rather than in their bust or hips.

Regardless of size, each woman has her own unique proportions and different styles that look and fit best on her. The expectation for a size-inclusive brand is not to solve every problem with every design—rather, the expectation is to provide more options for a wider range of body sizes and types.

BODY TYPE-SPECIFIC DESIGN

One option a brand may choose to pursue is to study its own aesthetic to determine one to two key body types that best complement its most common silhouettes.

Then, it can focus the design of its extended sizes on these body types. Rather than ineffectively aim to target everyone, this strategy can allow a brand to hone in on a segment of the population and develop a masterful fit for them. It is important for brands to understand these varied body types so that they can be factored into the design process.

ADAPTABLE DESIGN

A second option is to embrace adaptable design, or garments that can be adjusted by the consumer for an ideal fit. For example, dresses and jumpsuits have been shown to be two of the most difficult garments to fit for plus-size consumers, because many wear different top and bottom sizes. Designers can adapt to this by creating a two-piece dress that allows consumers to purchase the top and bottom in their respective sizes. Alternatively, shift dresses can include adjustable tie belts that allow the consumer to cinch or loosen the waist as needed.

COLLABORATION

Designers who are not familiar with designing for the plus-size consumer are encouraged to extend their resources. Collaboration with plus-size brands or plussize style influencers can not only provide brands with the sizing, design, and fit expertise they need, but it also establishes a deeper sense of authenticity and expertise for consumers, two critical components for size inclusivity.

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SIZING

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irst, the brand must establish its new, size-inclusive range of sizes; it is recommended that brands extend to at least a size 24 or 26 to accommodate the majority of female consumers. With this range established, brands can then develop their strategy for sizing garments up or down during product development.

Garments are currently sized up by one standard measurement: generally, one inch is added to each of the bust, waist, and hip measurements with each increasing size. However, as stated previously, women do not size up in this proportionate manner. As such, it is crucial that brands expand their sizing process so that careful thought and attention is put into fitting garments for the plus-size consumer.

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OPTION A: MULTIPLE SAMPLE SIZES 1. CREATE SAMPLES

The brand can begin by utilizing dress forms and fit models that cover a range of sizes and body types. When a new design is developed, samples should be created in multiple sizes. For example, if a size 8 sample is standard, the brand should create a second sample in a size 16 or 18 to assess how this design fits on a larger figure.

2. APPROVE FOR PRODUCTION

Brands can work with their manufacturer to accomplish this multiple sample system. Upon approval of the initial size 8 sample, the brand can request that the manufacturer produces samples in one to two additional sizes. The brand can then undergo additional fittings and wear tests with these larger samples to ensure their fit and durability. Production should not occur until the sample is approved in all requested sizes.

3. ADJUST PRODUCTION SCHEDULE

These additional steps in the product development process will add time and cost, so brands should adjust their production schedule accordingly. However, good fit and style is at the core of long-term success with the plussize consumer, so it is well worth the extra investment to ensure the product meets the quality standards of this consumer group.

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OPTION B: PATTERN UPSIZING THIRD-PARTY PARTNERSHIP

If brands are not yet ready to invest in new stages of product development, there exists a less intensive alternative. Brands may partner with a third-party patternmaker to have their garments sized up effectively.

Christine Hunsicker, founder of plus-size clothing subscription company Gwynnie Bee, has developed a team of highly-skilled patternmakers that can size up garments for the plus-size consumer. Brands can partner with this upsizing service and produce well-fitting garments in a range of sizes without a large overhead investment.

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PRICING

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t is imperative that all sizes within a style are priced the same; garments in plus sizes should never be priced higher than straight sizes. Brands can ensure this by basing its garment costing off of the median size within the range. For example, with the assumed range of 0 to 24, the median is a size 12. By using the size 12 as the base for costing, the average cost per garment can be determined, followed by the average price per garment.

Using the median size as the base allows for lesser costs from smaller sizes and higher costs from larger sizes to average out.

It is important to note that in general, the difference in material cost and labor between manufacturing straight-size and plus-size apparel is negligible below the 6X mark. Therefore, brands adopting a size-inclusive strategy should not expect any increased manufacturing costs from adding plus sizes into their range.

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CUSTOMIZATION

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he most comprehensive solution for covering a range of body types and sizes is for companies to offer a customization feature for consumers. Mass customization is already being offered for several menswear suiting brands, but it has yet to truly take off in womenswear.

Though it takes more expertise to accommodate the wider range of proportions women have, there is potential for customization to solve for fit issues for both plus- and straight-size female consumers.

As with menswear, suiting for womenswear would be a particularly good fit for customization; this is not only a garment that requires a tailored fit, but it is reported as one of the most difficult garments for plus-size women to find. Another smart option would be jeans, another garment for which plus-size women report having difficulty finding an ideal fit. Specific strategies for customization are included on the following pages.

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CUSTOMIZABLE FEATURES

Customization allows each consumer to provide more specific measurements in order to have a garment that is tailored to her body. Depending on the volume of custom orders and the time required to manufacture them, the recommended premium is a 15 percent markup, which is standard for custom-made garments.

Customizable measurements include adjusting the hem length, the waist-to-hip ratio, and the bust-towaist ratio. For a truly custom experience, brands may also choose to allow for more options beyond fit, such as selecting from a range of fabrics or changing the neckline or sleeve length. This is up to the discretion of the brand.

3D BODY SCANNING

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Mass customization for women’s apparel can be achieved through 3D body scanning, a form of technology that has been around for over a decade. The customer’s body is scanned, and key measurements are extracted and entered into a pattern alteration system, thus creating the unique pattern for that customer’s body, which is then manufactured into a custom-sized garment.

This strategy requires the initial investment of the 3D body scanning technology, but it provides massive potential for reaching a larger consumer market. Brands with high presence and numerous distribution points can add this feature to its biggest markets as an initial implementation of customization.

For a similar, but less costly, result, brands may opt to add a virtual fitting room to their website, such as that offered by Fits.Me. This allows customers to manually input their measurements and fit preferences to envision how a garment would fit their figure.

Figure 2: Mass Customization at Menswear Brand Indochino

indochino.com

SELECT CUSTOMIZATION

Customization does not need to be available for all garments; rather, brands may opt to roll out the feature on a few key garments that are most easily customizable. This also allows the brand to test the success of customization and gain valuable insight into the most common consumer fit issues and preferences that may guide future design decisions.

For example, a brand could produce a sizeinclusive sleeveless dress with the customizable option to add sleeves. Sales may show that a higher percentage of customers than usual have opted to add sleeves, informing the brand that it may want to design more styles with sleeves in the future.

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CONSUMER EDUCATION

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size-inclusive strategy should empower the consumer to better understand her body type and feel confident in her shopping experience. Creating extended sizes is not enough: brands must also create clear fit guidelines for each garment style. For example, a garment can be pictured on the brand’s website on a few different body types so that customers can better understand how the garment will fit on them. A recommendation for most flattering body types for each garment may also be included in the product description.

Brands should also allow for customer reviews— and encourage photo reviews—to provide a more comprehensive picture of how this garment fits. Reviews can be sorted or filtered based on the reviewer’s measurements so that other customers can see the garment on real women with similar body types to them.

Brands may choose to add an extra level of assistance through in-house fit experts, which can chat live with customers through the brand’s website and offer personalized fit advice based on each customer’s unique sizing needs.

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PLACEMENT

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reating a welcoming environment is key for a sizeinclusive placement strategy. If both straight and plus sizes are carried in store, the displays should reflect that. Brands should utilize prominently displayed plussize mannequins integrated with the typical straight-size mannequins. Images displayed throughout the store should feature models in a variety of sizes and body types.

Extended-size garments can be integrated with straight sizes, or they may be grouped in their own section for ease of accessibility. However, if the latter option is chosen, this section should be located near the front of the store in a location that is clearly visible.

When a customer enters the store—no matter the size she wears—she should instantly feel that she is welcome and included.

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INVENTORY

Because adding extended sizes means carrying a larger inventory in stock, stores should consider new inventory strategies. Stores can create a seamless connection between in-store and e-commerce so that if a preferred size is out of stock, the customer can order it directly in store and have the garment shipped to her at no cost to her. This solution prevents a buildup of inventory without limiting the customer’s options.

LABELING

Garments in extended sizes should not be labeled as “plus-size”; rather, the brand can take a more subtle approach through a simple store tag that says “Available in Sizes X - Y.” This clearly lets plus-size consumers know when a garment is available in their size without promoting the “plus-size” distinction, an aspect that many consumers find stigmatizing.

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Figure 3: Size-inclusive Merchandising at ModCloth

revelist.com

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PROMOTION

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ntegration is the key word when it comes to sizeinclusive promotional efforts, so marketing strategies should carry forward the thoughtful inclusion of plus-size women. All advertising should feel authentic and natural, and brand should take time and effort to understand the plus-size consumer so that they feel genuinely included in the brand’s community. This must go beyond simply adding a plus-size model into the mix; this long-neglected consumer group needs to feel heard and respected.

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BRAND WEBSITE

Just as women of all body sizes and types should be included in store displays and in advertising, they should also be featured on the brand’s website. When a customer views a garment for sale, she should be able to see it on more than one body type. This allows the plussize consumer to envision what the garment might look like on her, which can increase sales and build loyalty.

Other steps a brand may consider in better targeting the plus-size consumer in its shopping experience include the addition of a virtual fitting room, the ability to chat with an in-house fit expert, and hassle-free shipping and returns.

Each of these elements develop trust within the consumer and remove the barriers of purchasing—particularly in the online space—that many plus-size consumers encounter.

MOTION MEDIA

Brands should think beyond stagnant print advertisements and opt for marketing efforts that allow for engaging storytelling—videos are an ideal format for sparking an emotional connection. For brands that are newly adopting a size-inclusive strategy, the overall message should be proud and forthcoming, showing that they are committed to making apparel for women of all sizes.

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SOCIAL MEDIA MARKETING

Brands must consider where their target plus-size market is consuming media and inject their advertising through these channels. Social media marketing provides great potential for brands to connect with consumers on a personal level, but the strategy must be thoughtful and committed.

Brands will also want to tap into prominent media sites that cater to women and partner with plus-size bloggers and influencers who can help convey the authentic messaging of size inclusivity. Partnerships are particularly crucial for brands that are either lesser known or that have encountered sizing controversy in the past. Again, the focus is authenticity, and bringing in key members of the plus-size community can greatly impact the connection consumers feel towards the brand.

Figure 4: Size-inclusive Target Swimwear Ad

eonline.com

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LEADERSHIP

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nce a size-inclusive strategy is in place, it is imperative that all company stakeholders are on board with this new initiative. Because they represent the brand and have special interest in it, they need to understand why the company is adopting a size-inclusive strategy and how they can help promote this mission.

It is recommended that all shareholders and key stakeholders read this handbook and additional articles on plus-size consumers, body positivity, and size inclusivity in fashion. A brand can deepen its commitment to the cause by partnering with an organization centered on body confidence. Listed in the resources section are a few recommend readings to better understand the plussize market as it relates to the fashion industry as a whole.

Through a thoughtful and well-implemented sizeinclusive strategy, brands have the potential to increase their brand loyalty, revenue, and market share. Under the guidance outlined in this handbook, brands can be well on their way towards authentically embracing the plussize consumer within its brand community.

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RESOURCES ARTICLES > Tim Gunn: Designers refuse to make clothes to fit American women. It’s a disgrace.

By Tim Gunn (September 8, 2016) The Washington Post

> The stupid reason that larger clothes fit so badly.

By Marc Bain (April 23, 2017) Quartz

> Selling plus-size clothing isn’t just good for business. It’s also the right thing to do.

By Andrea Kuchinski (August 20, 2015) The Washington Post

> Here’s How “Hard” it is to Actually Design Beautiful, Stylish Clothes for Plus-Size Women.

By Rachel Lubitz (October 2, 2015) StyleMic 29