Yishan Wen
ChiehYi Lin Wenhao wen
X LUXURY BUSINESS PROJECT 2
PR A D A AC QU I RE D 75% O F T HE SHA R ES.
F I R S T WO M E N ’S CO L L E CT IO N
1973
1968
1999 1997
B R A ND F O UN DE D
R AF SI MO NS BE CA ME T HE CR EATI VE D IR E CTO R
2000
RO DO LFO PA GLI ALU NG A B ECAM E THE CRE ATIVE DI RECTO R. THE B RA ND WAS ACQU IR ED BY ON WARD HOLD IN GS CO.
2005
2008
2021
2014
2006
2017
THE B RA ND WAS ACQ UI RED BY CHAN GE CA PITAL PAR TNE RS L LP. FI RST M EN ’ S CO LL EC TI O N
JI L SA ND ER LE FT TH E BR AN D.
LU CIE ME IER A ND L UK E ME IER B ECAM E THE CRE ATI VE DI RECTO RS UNTI L TO DAY.
VISION,MISSION & VALUE
MODERN INT EL LECT UA LS C UST OME R
VISION: GIVING OUR AUDIENCE A SENSE OF PURITY AND STRENGTH. MISSION: GIVE A WOMAN, WHO IS INDEPENDENT AND SELF-RELIANT, A WARDROBE WITH FEMININITY AND FUNCTIONALITY.
3D
VALUE: LESS IS MORE
BU SI NE SS M OD EL
MINIMAL IST PLAY OF MATE RIALS, TAILORI NG AND LI NE S PR OD U CT S
CO MMUTING & O FFIC E OC C ASI ON OF USE
• • • •
• •
STRENGTHS
DISTINCTIVE AESTHETIC TRUSTWORTHY REPUTATION STRONG CUSTOMERS BASED HIGH QUALITY
OPPORTUNITIES
POTENTIAL EXPANSION OF ENLARGE PRODUCT CATEGORY IMPROVE SUSTAINABILITY
• •
• • •
WEAKNESSES
LOW-KEY MARKETING OWNERSHIP HAS SHIFTED MANY TIMES (COULD BE A REASON FOR THE LACK OF PROGRESS)
THREATS
ECONOMIC RECESSION RAW MATERIAL PRICE IS INCREASING DIGITAL COMMUNICATION IS NOT DIVERSIFIED
SEVEN TRENDS IN C HINA'S LUXURY MARKET IN THE POST-EPIDEMIC ERA CONSUMERS TEND TO BE YOUNGER ( AGE OF 22-35)
7
SEVEN TRENDS
LUXURY CONSUMPTION GEOGRAPHY IS CONVERGING TO HIGH TIER CITIES
OVERALL INCREASE IN THE PENETRATION OF LUXURY CONSUMER GOODS CATEGORY LOCALIZATION OF LUXURY PRODUCTS/MARKETING IS BECOME FAVORED
LUXURY ONLINE CHANNEL SALES BOOSTED
DOMESTIC LUXURY CONSUMPTION RETURNS
THE OMNICHANNEL FEATURE OF LUXURY CONSUMERS' SHOPPING PATH IS EMERGING
CLOTHING
BAGS
SHOES
ACCESSO RIES
JEWELRIES
DUE TO THE EPIDEMIC, THE PURCHASE RATE OF READY-TO-WEAR HAS SLIGHTLY DECREASED; CONSUMERS PREFER TO BUY ITEMS THAT RETAIN THEIR VALUE, CLASSIC AND DURABLE.
COMFORT & MULTI-OCCASION
MATERIALS
VALUE
RETRO STYLE
JIL S ANDER 90 S ARCHIVE
LAZY LUXURY
HONGKONG
SINCE 2010
YOHJI YAMAMOTO ELE N A D AWS ON
RICK OWENS UMA WANG GUIDI CARO L CH RISTIAN POELL DETAJ SONG FO R THE MU TE LAY ER-0 HO RISAKI LEMAIRE
M.A+ PAUL HARNDEN BORIS BIDJAN SABERI
PATH CHARACTERISTIC S
OM NI CHA NN EL A PPRO ACHS
COGNITIVE UPGRAD E
UNDERSTANDING
TARGET CUSTOMER
OM NI- CHA NN EL LAYOU T
ADVOCACY
SHORT LINKS
1
EXCLUSIVE SERV ICE LIFE
HANG ZH OU
B O TH ME N & W OM E N
PURCHASE
EX CL U SIVE OM NI CHA NN EL SER VICE
30%
SOCIA LLY DRI VEN
A G E 22 - 35
ONLINE AND OFFLINE OMNICHANNEL EXPERIENCE
M ID - HI G H C L A SS UNDERSTANDING
M AT E R IA L S & VA L UE N IC H E B R AN D
ADVOCACY
2
M I NI MAL I S T S
LIFE
PURCHASE
S T O RY T E L L I N G
O2 O SO CIAL R ETA IL
SOCIALIZATION
35%
TRA F FI C AGG REGATION WI TH MU LTI-TO UCHPOI NT S PRI VATE DOM AI N SO CI ALIZATIO N O PER ATI ON
INTEGRATIO N INTO L IFE IM MERSI VE A RT E XPERI EN CE UNDERSTANDING
ADVOCACY
VALUE RECOGNITION
3 LIFE
PURCHASE
15%
BRA N D VA L UE COMM UN ICAT ION EN TERTAIN M ENT / CROS SOVER /DIVE RSITY
PATH CHARACTERIS TICS
OM NI CHA NN EL A PPRO ACHS
COGNITIVE UPGRAD E
UNDERSTANDING
TARGET CUSTOMER
OM NI- CHA NN EL LAYOU T
ADVOCACY
SHORT LINKS
1
EXCLUSIVE SERV ICE LIFE
HANG ZH OU
B O TH ME N & W OM E N
PURCHASE
EX CL U SIVE OM NI CHA NN EL SER VICE
30%
SOCIA LLY DRI VEN
A G E 22 - 35
ONLINE AND OFFLINE OMNICHANNEL EXPERIENCE
M ID - HI G H C L A SS UNDERSTANDING
M AT E R IA L S & VA L UE N IC H E B R AN D
ADVOCACY
2
M I NI MAL I S T S
LIFE
PURCHASE
S T O RY T E L L I N G
O2 O SO CIAL R ETA IL
SOCIALIZATION
35%
TRA F FI C AGG REGATION WI TH MU LTI-TO UCHPOI NT S PRI VATE DOM AI N SO CI ALIZATIO N O PER ATI ON
INTEGRATIO N INTO L IFE IM MERSI VE A RT E XPERI EN CE UNDERSTANDING
ADVOCACY
VALUE RECOGNITION
3 LIFE
PURCHASE
15%
BRA N D VA L UE COMM UN ICAT ION EN TERTAIN M ENT / CROS SOVER /DIVE RSITY
LOCATION MOGAN MOUN TAIN KEY ELEMENTS
05.March- 05.April
“A MODERN TEMPLE IN TH E FOR EST” CHINESE ZEN NATURE MIN IMALISIM METAL
STORE MOO DBOARD LIGHT TEM PERATURE
SOF T COT TON J I L S A ND E R
LEATHER
DISTA NT TEMPLE CH INA
CHINESE-STYL E ARCHI TECTURE
LEATHER I NK -C L OT H I NG
L OT US SP E CIA LTY DR IN K S
SANDELWOOD
LOT US COCKTAIL
FORREST INK
INK
MINIMAL IST ZEN STYL E
CH I NA
TAST E RIVER
JIL SANDER
SNO W
JI L SA NDE R
SILK
H AN G Z HO U
HEARING
PLA NTS
TOUCH SIGHT
EM OTION
PEACE
LE LABO 33
SM ELL
SO CI A L S KI LL S , P RO D UC T K N OWL ED G E , RES PO N S I V E, EL
CLIEN T ADVISORS
DATA ANALYZ ING, AGI LE , ENERGET I C
ID
EA
L
TE
AM
STOC K C LERK
STORE MANAGE R
CASHIER
BART ENDER
COMMUNIC ATI O N , ORG A N I ZATI O N , VI SI ON , L EA D E RS HI P, EL
C A UT I OU S , S ER IOU S , EX PERI ENC E
P ROFE SS IO NAl, C REAT IVE
H A NF U S IL K B L O US E €8 9 0
G R O C E RY T OT E € 12 9 0
POCKE T T-S HI RT €5 00 ROBE COAT WITH B ELT €1490
SI LK PA NTS €69 0 U NI SEX SL IP PE RS €8 00
LO OSE D RE SS €1 29 0
OR I GI N PER FU ME € 70
PROD UC T DESIGN S KETCHES
BRAND
SOCIETY
WHY IS THI S P ROP OSAL A GOOD IDEA
LOCAL
end CHIEHYI LIN YISHAN WEN WENHAO WEN
LAZY LUXURY
Description
Product Name
Pocket T-Shirt
SKU
#1RTC101
Size Range
XS~XL
Price
€500
Material
Cotton90%, Leather8%, Silk2%
Colors
White
Knot
Hanfu Silk Blouse
SKU
#1RBS102
Size Range
32~38
Price
€890
Material
West Lake Satin Silk 100%
Colors
Brown, White
Product Name
Silk Pants
LAZY LUXURY
Cotton T-Shirt with silk fringe and leather pocket 100% cotton relaxed fit and boxy shape short sleeves crew neck cotton jersey silk fringed leather logo embossing pocket Revived from 2021 SS T-shirt and inspired by Ink leather style
Chinese knot silk blouse 100% silk relaxed fit and boxy shape front opening cross Hanfu collar wide cuffs double layer two colors fluid drapé satin Made in Italy Revived from 1994 SS blouse and inspired by Chinese hanfu style
Description
Product Name
Robe Coat
SKU
#1RCSW105
Size Range
34~38
Price
€1490
Material
West Lake Silk 30% , Wool 70%
Colors
White
Product Name
Unisex Slippers
SKU
#1RSL106
Size Range
35~41.5
Price
€800
Material
Nappa Leather 100%
Colors
Black
Product Name
Grocery Tote With Pocket
SKU
#1RBL107
Size Range
N/A
Price
€1290
Material
Caviar Leather 100%
Robe silk and wool coat with belt and hidden waist buttons detail West Lake Silk 30% , Wool 70% Long and relaxed fit HIdden Waist buttons detail Made in Italy Inspired from 1991 FW coat
Square toe unisex slippers with nappa leather 100% patent nappa leather Square toe Jil Sander logo branded insole Calf leather lining and cow leather outsole Made in Italy Inspired from 2019 Pre Fall ballerinas
SKU
#1RPS103
Size Range
32~38
Price
€690
Material
West Lake Satin Silk 100%
Colors
Brown
Colors
Black
Leather tote bag with embossed Jil Sander logo and pocket 100% Caviar leather Double leather detachable handles Open top Internal details: suede lining, internal slot pockets blind embossed Jil Sander logo Made in Italy Comes with dust bag Inspired from 2011 SS tote bags
Product Name
Loose Dress
Product Name
Jil Sander Origin 70 ml
Stone feel metal head
SKU
#1FO108
Top note: green tea, bergamot and rose
SKU Size Range
#1RDSC104 34~38
Price
€1290
Material
West Lake Satin Silk 60%, Cotton 40%
Colors
White
Silk cuffed pants 100% silk wide leg and straight cut zip fly and hook closure closed cuff slightly dropped crotch and waist Made in Italy Revived from 1994 SS suit and inspired by cuffed pants style
Silk and cotton dress with pleated detailing West Lake Satin Silk 60%, Cotton 40% Long and relaxed fit Turtleneck and sleeveless Pleated detailing hem Made in Italy Inspired from 2021 SS dress with 90’s tops style
Size Range
N/A
Price
€70
Material
Alcohol, Fragrance
Colors
Grey, Transparency
Jil Sander
polygonal faceted shape glass bottle Middle notes: cedar, osmanthus and lotus Base notes: leather, vanilla, amber, musk.
Made in France Inspired by Jim Sander and Ink natural element.
HISTORY Jil sander founded the fashion house with same name in 1968, is famous for its refined and simple stylish workweardesign. Under the enlightenment of Bauhaus movement. Through a pure aesthetic method, it completely liberated modern women. And she got the title of "QUEEN OF LESS". In 1999, Prada Group bought Jil Sander's shares, but with serious conflicts in financial and design visions, Jil left in 2000. In 2003, Jil went back to save the brand for 1 year (next year in 2005, Raf Simons came to rescue the brand). Raf Simons worked in Jil Sander for 7 years, who added more strong colors and avant-garde to the brand style with sci-fi elements. In 2008, the brand was sold to Onward Holdings, Japan’s largest apparel group. in 2012 ,JIL SANDER returned to the position of creative director again and took over Raf’s position.(By that time, he was poached by Dior) But this time jil stayed for only 1 year in the brand. She once confessed that she found that the current fashion trend is no longer like the tailoring and quality. This phenomenon made her resign again. In 2017, the husband and wife duo Luke and Lucie Meier took over. What they pursue is to make the brand back to pure, warm and humanism, and closer to life itself. Every piece of clothing has soul and emotion, and communicates with our body.
VISION, MISSION, VALUE VISION: Giving our audience a sense of purity and strength. MISSION: Give a woman, who is independent and self-reliant, a wardrobe with femininity and functionality. VALUE: Less is more.
TARGET MARKETS High income, work-orientated individuals between the age of 25~40 in Germany. Recently, there has been a great demand in Japan and China.
SWOT ANALYSIS Strengths: Distinctive aesthetic Trustworthy reputation Strong customers based High quality Weakness: Low-key marketing Ownership has shifted many times (could be a reason for the lack of progress) Opportunity: Potential expansion of enlarging product category Sustainability Threats: Economic Recession Raw Material Price is increasing Digital Communication is not diversified
Societal and Environmental Changes and Influences In the post-epidemic era, Chinese luxury consumers present seven major trends CONSUMERS TEND TO BE YOUNGER Consumers under the age of 30 accounted for more than half for the first time, and expenditure contribution increased from 42% to 47% LUXURY CONSUMPTION GEOGRAPHY IS CONVERGING TO HIGH TIER CITIES Consumers in the top 50 cities in China accounted for about 75%, an increase of nearly 10% over the previous year OVERALL INCREASE IN THE PENETRATION OF LUXURY CONSUMER GOODS CATEGORY Handbags, entry-level jewelry/watches, the penetration rate increased by 6% to 7% compared to the previous year LOCALIZATION OF LUXURY PRODUCTS/MARKETING IS BECOME FAVORED More than 90% of respondents said that classic brand products with local features are the most popular LUXURY ONLINE CHANNEL SALES BOOSTED The proportion of online channels rose from 12% to 33% from the previous year DOMESTIC LUXURY CONSUMPTION RETURNS Affected by the epidemic's restrictions on international travel, the proportion of domestic offline purchases increased from 32% in the previous year to 59% THE OMNICHANNEL FEATURE OF LUXURY CONSUMERS' SHOPPING PATH IS EMERGING Affected by the epidemic's restrictions on international travel, the proportion of domestic offline purchases increased from 32% in the previous year to 59%
Consumer Mindset Shifts Due to the pandemic Chinese consumers have a reduced demand for clothes and accessories, but higher demand for shoes, bags and jewelry. Consumers will prefer more valuable, classic, and longlasting products. The products they want here can be divided into four categories: 1: people nowadays stayed at home more, they want products that can be comfortable to wear ,also for working environment, they need to do video meeting, so comfortable and multi-occasion products are one of their needs; 2. Because they began to pay attention to more durable products, they have higher requirements for materials rather than cheap fabrics from fast fashion 3. They hope that the product they buy has a higher value. The value here can be divided into two points. First, it’s high material value, and the initial price will be high. The second is that the product also has a high value in terms of time. Timeliness means that it will be more classic and durable, not like popular selling Balenciaga product, which can be easily replaced by aesthetic trend, but more like chanel classic style; 4. Consumers began to like retro style. This phenomenon seems to be caused by economic change. A good example of this phenomenon is the US financial crisis. Why consumers like retro style? According to psychology, it is because they have experienced it. In the beautiful years they have passed, this time period can give them a sense of security that they lack in economic changes.
Location Research In China, first-tier cities are already saturated, many brands have begun to consider second-tier cities when entering China market. Hangzhou is a potential city, not only it has 354 companies with great capital strength, with a total market value of RMB 6,086.1 billion and a high level of consumption with higher GDP, but also it has formed a mature technology industry circle with Alibaba and other technology giants. It's beneficial to support the e-tailers related pop-up store. Because of the 30+ years of traditional development of womenswear, what's more, now many shopping malls further supported traditional and niche brand development. From economic development, commercial layout, to the influence of culture, talents, and other aspects, the "youth cool" cultural circle also gradually forms a scale. Hangzhou's “youth cool” is not only reflected in the raging clothing and e-commerce industries, but also a group of designers or artists who devoted to improving the quality and aesthetic of life of Hangzhou people. In the past ten years, Hangzhou has honored itself a reputation of "E-commerce Capital", attracting young people to start businesses and live. The interesting collision between traditional, artistic, and technology is the keyword for the continuous development of the city, matching the Jil Sander atmosphere with the e-tailer supported.
E-tailer: INK We chose InkClothing as our partner retailer after identified the basic trends and changes in the market. So, Ink was founded in 2010, is the world's largest avant-garde fashion retailer based in Hong Kong. Their mission is to maintain a unique taste in fashion while providing exceptional and highest quality products and services to customers worldwide. First of all, one of the biggest points in common between avant-garde fashion and Jil Sander is that they both have extremely high requirements for fabrics and quality, which often leads to very high product costs. we know Jil Sander herself chose to leave her own brand at that time because the group asked her to sacrifice quality to ensure sufficient profit margins. on the other hand, we can easily find that the price of those avant-garde products sometimes even higher than luxury brand a lot. And As we just said, the demand for quality is now more than ever, and the extreme demand for quality is actually one of the biggest differences between avant-garde retailers and other mass retailers, so this is one of the factors why we chose Ink. Second, in fact, if you take away the minimalist fashion, which style of fashion is the most minimalist, it must be the avant-garde fashion, we almost hardly find some prints or like very decorative design, almost all the design is through the fabric and tailoring to Show its aesthetics. In this regard, Jil Sander and the avant-garde fashion concept is surprisingly consistent. In addition, the consumer's need for classic and durable products is now perfectly reflected in the avant-garde products.
Target market and Customer Journey The first part is about city and target, the second part is about three different customer behavior patterns, and the third part is about their characteristics and ways to deal with them. According to a survey conducted by VogueBusiness last year, Hangzhou is the second most fashionable city in China after Chengdu, and more importantly, it is the number one city in China in terms of fashion e-commerce spending power. That's why we chose Hangzhou as our pop-up store target city. Our target customer are both male and female with high disposable income, between the ages of 22-35, who have their own unique views on fashion, prefer niche and storytelling brands, and who are very conscious of quality of life. Broadly speaking, Hangzhou's customer behavior can be divided into three patterns, with a ratio of 3 to 3.5 to 1.5, and a small percentage not belonging to these three. The first pattern is cognitive-driven, their purchase chain is quite short, which can be understood as they will be able to form a purchase action in a short period of time, from magazines or when they happen to see what they like when walking in the street, they will soon make a purchase decision.
Target market and Customer Journey The second pattern is socially driven, and this is the behavior pattern that accounts for the largest proportion, with 35%. They usually see celebrity wears on social media, or they are recommended by their friends, which drives the purchase decision. The last one is the behavior pattern of our target customers. Although they make up the smallest percentage, they are very very important, they are what we call KOC "Key opinion customer”. After they develop a recognition of the brand, they will integrate the life attitude or values conveyed by the brand into their lives. Their purchase behavior comes from their recognition of the brand's value or concept, not from social or cognitive. So for them. Value recognition is the most important thing, based on this, immersive art experience, advertising that conveys brand values, diversified entertainment or lifestyle marketing and crossover are the most effective ways to impress them.
Store Mood Board CHINESE ZEN NATURE MINIMALISIM METAL Operation Date: 05. March~05. April The theme of the pop-up store is "Modern Temple in the Forest". We chose Moganshan in Hangzhou, which is a forest park not far from the city. The style of the store is a combination of Ink, Jil Sander and Hangzhou elements. We envisioned the store that looks like a classical Chinese temple surrounded by a forest, but when you walk in, you will see a very different and modern design. The two most important elements of the store are the natural elements and the minimalist elements, which together will bring a very modern and artistic "Zen" style to the customer. The natural elements include an art installation with grass, trees, water and the lotus flower representing Hangzhou. As for the lighting of the store, we chose 6000 degrees, which is the closest to natural light.
5 senses Marketing As for the five senses marketing of the store, in terms of touch, customers can touch the soft, high quality cotton,Silk and Ink's signature leather, which are the main product materials of our collection. Aurally we did not choose any music, instead we chose three ambient sound effects to make the customers have a more immersive experience and make them feel like they are really in a "temple in the forest". We chose the temple sound effects that represent China, the forest sound effects that represent Ink, including the sound of the wind blowing through the leaves and the birds chirping, and the sound of the creek that represents Jil Sander. Visually, because we have just talked about it, we won't go into details, but mainly the Chinese architectural exterior with minimalist Zen interior design, supplemented by plant decoration and art installations. In terms of smell, we also chose three different smell combinations that represent the brand, the retailer and the city respectively. There is the leather smell representing Ink, the sandalwood smell representing China and the snow smell representing Jil Sander. The fragrance that most closely resembles this combination is Le Labo's No. 33. Finally, on the taste side, we will serve each customer a Lotus special drink or cocktail that shows the tone of our collaboration.
Market and society related (Mood-Board, inspirations) Because of the Covid-19 opportunity, many people work and study at multi-occasion, so people tend to wear comfortable but decent clothes to attend the video meeting or remote classes. Besides, under the pandemic, people feel stressed and depressed, therefore, they desire back to the wonderful periods of 90's. Undoubtedly, the style of nostalgia tends to be popular in recent years. Combine the retro style, pandemic related lifestyle, the style of Jil Sander(minimalist and functionality), we figure out the concept called lazy luxury. Also, the archives of 90's collection seem to match the concept of this kind of style and mindset, so we revived these 8 desirable products.
WHY IS THIS PROPOSAL A GOOD IDEA Our proposal has the main intention-through 3 aspects (brand, society, and local) to find out repetitors, new audience, and start the new conversation with the customers. We want to connect the relevant factors of Jil sander and ink's customers, to find out the overlap focus. They are nature lovers, appreciate good materials, and tend to integrate the brand value into their life. Since the pandemic impact on today’s society, long-lasting valuable items, multi-occasional oriented garments (comfortable but decent) can be the main trend now. Take advantage of Hangzhou’s aesthetic atmosphere, Chinese elements and integrate with ink elements, setting up a pop-up store can not only create a buzz but also transfer the values to the audiences and store nearby (flagship store…etc).The shop is full of points of sale, utilizing 5 senses marketing to contribute to the total development of the customer journey. Make a solid interconnection with all the touchpoints of the brand to discover the new market that Jil Sander never had before.
Reference Vogue Business 2020 , Vogue Business in China team, https://finance.sina.com.cn/tech/2020-11-24/dociiznctke2936946.shtml