LE KAP - AUTUMN 2019 edition

SOUTH AFRICA

®

The tale of two cities

KARL LAGERFELD R.I.P 1933 - 2019

At the intersection of fashion & functionality

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editor-in-chief l Steve Swanepoel automotive lifestyle editor l Richard Webb multimedia editor l Stephanie Swanepoel creative l Le Mag Publications Group proofreaders l Moira Theart l Marion Pfeiffer photographers l Various wine correspondents l Jean Vincent Ridon l Jörg Pfützner international research & correspondents Howard Linsee-Tutill l Liz Webber advertising enquiries l sales@lemagpublications.com

CONTENTS

editorial enquiries l info@lemagpublications.com event enquiries l events@lemagpublications.com website l Warren Richards editorial contributors l Moira Theart, Marion Pfeiffer, Joy Scott, Paula Wilson, Steve Swanepoel, Sylvia Sibbald, Anne Wheeler, Richard Webb, Daphne McFarlane, Stephanie Swanepoel, Diane Stadler, Juliette Corrin publisher l Le Mag Publications Group editor l editor@lemagpublications.com email l info@lemagpublications.com web l www.lemagpublications.com tel l 021 829 7120 l 021 829 7205 fax l 086 554 5580

COPYRIGHT © 2018 l 2019 - LE MAG PUBLICATIONS GROUP The opinions and views expressed herein are not necessarily those of the Le Mag Publications Group. The publisher and editor regretfully cannot accept any liability for omissions or errors contained in this publication. The ownership of registered trademarks is duly acknowledged. No part of this publication or any of its content may be reproduced, digitally stored or transmitted in any format without the express and written permission of the publishing editor.

FRONT COVER l KARL LAGERFELD

08 FROM THE EDITOR 10 FASHION & FUNTIONALITY 14 LAGOONS & LUSH PEAKS 20 KARL LAGERFELD - R.I.P .

28 THE TALE OF TWO CITIES 34 SIFU 36 WHY UNEXCEPTIONAL IS THE NEW EXCEPTIONAL

40 | 43 PC | 45 | 50L - 50P | 51 PC | 58

www.leopardcatamarans.co.za southafrica@leopardcatamarans.com

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40 Breguet and the art of Guilloche

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CONTENTS CONT ...

BY JEFFREY S. KINGSTON

40 MORPHEUS

64 THE KING OF DIAMONDS

46 YACHT ETIQUETTE

68 GLAMOROUS ST MORITZ

48 THE ALLURE OF FORBIDDEN PLACES

74 VACHERON CONSTANTIN

56 WHAT DEFINES LUXURY

79 PEARL DIVING MERMAIDS

60 CITY WITH SOUL

83 GLAMPING

FOLLOW US ON THE ELIE SAAB MAGAZINE / THELIGHTOFNOW.COM

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from the editor

It is hard to believe that we are already heading towards winter with this Autumn 2019 edition of Le Kap. 2018 was an interesting and eventful year to say the very least, on a personal and commercial front. The majority of South Africans have been subjected to tremendous financial restraints due to the poor economic climate, which has resulted in significant negativity.

All the financial indicators suggest that will continue on a similar path throughout this year. As my fundamental mental framework is of a positive nature I always draw equal benefit from both the negative and the positive aspects of past experience. I have found that with the implementation of a structured evaluation process one soon realises that obstacles in most instances hold a tremendous amount of positive information when correctly processed.

It is with this thought in mind that I am looking towards the remainder of 2019 with tremendous positivity and am ready to embrace the opportunities and in particular the obstacles that lie ahead. In reality it is obstacles, or challenges as they are commonly referred to these days, that we as humans perceive as victory and subsequently interpret as success, once mastered.

On this positive note I would like to extend our sincere gratitude to our business partners, advertisers, staff and our loyal readership for having joined us on our journey of embracement.

I hope you enjoy the read.

Steve Swanepoel, Founder & CEO

The poetry of Italian elegance

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AT THE INTERSECTION OF FASHION AND FUNCTIONALITY ...

Feeling a bit ambivalent about cars? Richard Webb attended the Concorso d’Eleganza Villa d’Este to revive the passion.

Humans tend to align themselves with polarised positions: we’re either evening or morning persons; we’re either rugby or football fans. Many of us are like this about cars – we are either entranced by them or see them as white goods – mere sources of mobility.

Even if you just have a passing interest in cars, I challenge you not be moved by the incredibly beautiful pieces of machinery displayed around the gardens of the best hotel on the shores of the most beautiful lake in Italy.

Often spoken in reverent tones along with the Pebble Beach Concours d’Elegance, the Concorso d’Eleganza Villa d’Este event is probably the most coveted display of automotive luxury and heritage in the world.

Automotive beauty pageants have been popular since the 1920s as the great and beautiful gather with proud owners and fans to celebrate motorised transport filled to the brim with drama, passion and history.

‘Hollywood on the Lake’ was the theme for this year’s Concorso, which took place in the beguiling manicured gardens of the Villa d’Este luxury hotel at Lake Como, Northern Italy. In an enduring partnership with BMW Group Classic, the world’s most extraordinary historic cars and motorcycles were assembled once again for an unmatched automotive beauty contest covering all cinematographic eras – from silent movies to the era of modern blockbusters.

This year 56 cars and 34 bikes were entered - from Bentley, Ferrari and Porsche, to historic marques from the past like the exotic Isotta Fraschini and newcomers like Genesis. Prizes were based on provenance, rarity, authenticity… and of course beauty. >

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A low and powerful interplay of a long bonnet and flowing roofline, with a striking upward sweep of the trailing edge. A large kidney grille, slim twin headlights and large air intakes pick up the classic BMW template with a fresh interpretation.

The interior focuses on the essential - the task of driving. Once behind the wheel, the driver is wrapped in the tightly enclosed ambience typical of sports cars. The surfaces and lines all gravitate forwards and underscore the dynamic driving experience.

The grouping of functions into control clusters, e.g. in the centre stack, the centre console and the doors, gives the interior a clear graphic structure.

Although this is predominantly a classic event, BMW normally launches a concept car and concept bike at Villa d’Este, given BMW Group organises the event. Along with the historic and iconic 507, 3.0 CSL and the Roadster M1 present, I was also able to get a glimpse past the history and into the heart of the future.

The winds of change

M8 Gran Coupe concept.

But Edgar Heinrich, design director of BMW Motorrad, is shaking this view up. I spoke to him at Lake Como where he told me that the Concept 9Cento bike was based on an existing chassis and engine. “The design process was completed in just four months.

It acknowledges the need for touring bike practicality but also ups the desirability factor of a touring bike.” Touring bikes are normally known more for their long-distance practicality rather than their flamboyant style, but the 9Cento blends the ‘wow’ factor with everyday practicality.

The main star of the show was the M8 Gran Coupe concept. It at first appears similar in form to the current generation 6 Series Gran Coupe, but it also displays new form-building techniques and design ideas. The Concept 8 Series, presented in its distinctive Salève Vert shade, reveals much of what is to come. Immediately recognisable as a BMW, this beautiful four-door coupe offers a look ahead to the actual car that goes on sale next year. Punctuated by a long bonnet, powerful haunches, sleek roofline and elevated boot spoiler we can expect a spectacular 0 to 100km/h time of around 3 seconds.

This, the revived 8 Series, will consist of a traditional coupe, a fourdoor sedan and convertible variants. I understand the production M8 Gran Coupe will take the 4.4-litre biturbo V8 engine which is good for about 447 kilowatts. It will boast an eight-speed automatic gearbox and an xDrive AWD system like the one in the current M5 sedan.

Fuelled by the pursuit of better solutions to technical challenges, design innovations may seem to have played a less significant role on motorcycles than they have on cars.

The impact of fashion at the Concorso is obvious – not just with the achingly beautiful displays. Elegantly dressed crowds sip champagne in the sunshine as the cars are slowly paraded past, and the frocks, hats and high-heel shoes are worn not to complement the cars, but to compete head-on with them. The Concorso d’Eleganza celebrates beauty in both, the man-made and natural kind, and it could make a car lover out of anyone.

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A smart all-rounder for the road, the BMW Motorrad Concept 9cento (pronounced ‘nove cento’) combines emotion and performance with an adventurous spirit. Edgar Heinrich, Head of Design BMW Motorrad reckons he has created a bike that ‘combines the appropriate power with reliable sports touring properties.’

It’s an interpretation of a modern all-rounder for the new mid-range segment. ‘Functional properties such as touring capability, storage space and wind/weather protection are relevant to most motorcyclists but they’re rarely included in the design of a concept vehicle,’ explains Heinrich.

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LAGOONS & LUSH PEAKS

By Marrion Pfeiffer

The 118 volcanic islands and atolls comprising French Polynesia are a captivating collection of lagoons and lush peaks. While Tahiti is the largest and most commonly known, each island has its own distinct voice.

Visiting multiple islands can be a challenge – think ferries or float planes – and even then it takes planning, continual packing and unpacking as well as getting to multiple departure points. A voyage with Regent Seven Seas Cruises, therefore, is the perfect solution to discover the South Pacific.

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eatured in the 2019-2021 collection of Regent Seven Seas Cruises are voyages in the South Pacific promising that each island stopover will become a mystical idyll for guests as well as an unforgettable memory.

“Here the ports of call are uncrowded and charming, the neon-blue waters within the lagoons are calm and the ocean journey between the islands is short,” says Janine Pretorius, owner of Encore Cruises.

She has specialised in Regent Seven Seas Cruises for over 21 years.

While the lively Papeete in Tahiti is a frequent point of departure, Regent’s itineraries bring out the very best of what this diverse area has to offer. For this reason, a cruise to French Polynesia – if comparing cruising to other luxury land programmes – makes the most sense, Janine believes.

Considering the 1:1.5 crew to guest ratio onboard Seven Seas Navigator, the smallest and most intimate liner in Regent’s fleet and a regular in these waters, passengers will island hop in style

and convenience. The ship also recently underwent a multi-million dollar refurbishment to elevate the passenger experience to even greater heights.

Incorporated in the all-inclusive cruise rate are unlimited shore excursions at all ports of call, catapulting this destinationintensive exploration into a league of its own. Superior dining and entertainment attractions offer more than enough to keep passengers absorbed without getting in the way of the ports guests have come to see.

And ports they will see. Guests departing Papeete on 23 December 2019 onboard Seven Seas Navigator for an 11-night ‘South Pacific Sunsets’ journey will travel from Moorea to Fakarava and from there to Nuku Hiva (Marquesas), Rangiroa, Bora Bora, Raiatea and Huahine.

In Moorea, find yourself tackling the steep ascent up Magic Mountain where a path lined by grapefruit, lemon and orange trees

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opens up to a veritable vista stretching across Opunohu Bay. Experience the bay’s beauty from below sea level during a snorkelling and beach adventure that offers a rare opportunity to feed stingrays as they sashay in the waters around you. Paddle on a traditional outrigger canoe through Cook’s Bay and get a feel for va’a racing, the national sport of Polynesia.

From the atoll of Fakarava head to Nuku Hiva, the largest of the Marquesas Islands. In Hakaui admire the world’s third biggest waterfall or sample the local speciality of roast pork, cooked on hot rocks buried in sand. Drive to the Taipivai Valley, one of the richest archaeological sites in the Marquesas Islands made famous by the American writer and sailor Herman Melville (1819-1891) who deserted his ship and hid in this valley. The area was also the base camp for the American reality television series, Survivor, filmed here in 2001.

Why not take up your own survivor challenge in Bora Bora? Whether you’re snorkelling or carefully balancing a tropical fruit on your way

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to a finish line, the competition intensifies when you stick out your tongue to best other guests in the haka, an ancient war dance.

Alternatively, go exploring below the water’s surface on an aqua bike underwater. To learn how to tie a pareo (wraparound skirt), buy handmade crafts or see relics left behind from World War II, you’ll need to visit the district of Fa’anui.

Life on the remote atolls of the Tuamotu Archipelago is simple and peaceful. In Rangiroa, the interior lagoons are a haven for black pearl farms, fish breeding, snorkelling and scuba diving. Learn about pearl cultivation and shop for unset pearls … or join a snorkelling tour of an open-water aquarium.

Raiatea is the second largest island of French Polynesia after Tahiti and local legend has it that the great Polynesian migration began here when islanders departed in double-hulled canoes and colonised the Hawaiian Islands and New Zealand. You’ll smell fragrant vanilla pods curing in the sun on vanilla plantations, and the

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Island and Noumea (New Caledonia) and then Australia’s Brisbane and Sydney.

Departing Auckland, New Zealand on 13 March 2020, Seven Seas Navigator begins a 15-night ‘Tahitian Traditions’ itinerary that concludes in Papeete. Ports of call incorporate Bay of Islands, Norfolk Island, Noumea, Lautoka and Suva, Apia, Pago Pago and then Bora Bora, Moorea and Papeete.

While some could think that it is overly enthusiastic to be looking at dates as far ahead as 2021, Janine clarifies that more and more cruise guests are booking in advance. “This enables passengers to secure the best deals and have priority over a choice of suites to get the perfect location or size of suite and balcony they prefer.”

On 9 February 2021, Seven Seas Navigator departs from Papeete to Papeete on its ‘Romance of Paradise’ voyage over ten nights that takes in Moorea, Fakarava, Nuku Hiva, Rangiroa, Bora Bora and Raiatea. On 19 February, the liner departs Papeete for a ‘Lagoons & Lush Peaks’ voyage, also ten nights, that includes the same ports of call.

She cautions that specific ships and routes – such as the Tokyo roundtrip and Norwegian Fjord sailings – sell out very quickly, so don’t take too long to decide on an itinerary. Make sure you are one of those 490 guests when Seven Seas Navigator next heads off to the islands of French Polynesia.

Navigator Suite

wild hibiscus, bamboo groves, ginger flowers and chestnut trees as you drift along the Faaroa River. A stop on a motu, an islet, gives you precious time simply to be, as you relax on the white sands.

On the quiet little island of Huahine, leave the pier aboard an open-air Le Truck and make your way to Maeva Village, once the traditional home to all the island’s chiefs and their families.

Marae, or prehistoric temples, testify to the area’s uniqueness and importance. Ancient fish traps built centuries ago are still in use today. Look out for the blue-eyed eels that populate a small river stream in the village of Faie.

Visiting family or friends in the United States, Australia or New Zealand? Consider a cruise to French Polynesia, suggests Janine, particularly since Regent offers such an inclusive luxury experience.

With the exception of spa treatments, everything is included in one fare that covers not only the unlimited shore excursions, but also 24-hour room service, staff gratuities, fine dining and beverages (including wines and premium spirits), Wi-Fi, entertainment and lectures.

On 3 January 2020, Seven Seas Navigator embarks on her ‘Pacific Island Adventure’ 20-night voyage from Papeete to Sydney, Australia. Aside from crossing the International Date Line, highlights include stops in Pago Pago (Samoa), Apia (Somoa Islands), Lautoka and Suva in Fiji, Champagne Bay (Espiritu Santo), Port Vila, Pine

Photo above: Compass Rose is the elegant speciality restaurant across the Regent fleet featuring exclusively designed Versace dinnerware. For lunch, passengers may choose appetisers and main courses, while at dinner they can create their own entrées from preferred sides, sauces, pastas and the main features. So whether you’re looking for an appetiser like Iberico Ham (with baby artichokes and a white bean salad) or a daily special such as Conchiglie Pasta (including baby clams and creamy champagne sauce) followed by some frothy dessert sensation, there’ll always be something to delight all palates.

Chart a course for the exotic on our most intimate ship Seven Seas Navigator® up to 37 shore excursions included

up to 46 shore excursions included

PAPEETE to PAPEETE

AUCKLAND to PAPEETE

11 nights | Departs 23 December 2019 Deluxe Window Suite from US $4,329 pp Deluxe Veranda Suite from US $6,829 pp

15 nights | Departs 13 March 2020 Deluxe Window Suite from US $8,249 pp Deluxe Veranda Suite from US $10,249 pp

Ports Visited: Papeete (overnight), Moorea, Fakarava, Nuku Hiva (Marquesas), Rangiroa, Bora Bora (overnight), Raiatea and Huahine

Ports Visited: Bay of Islands, Norfolk Island, Noumea (overnight), Lautoka, Suva, Apri, Pago Pago, Bora Bora, Moorea and Papeete (overnight)

South Pacific Sunsets

up to 37 shore excursions included

Tahitian Traditions

PAPEETE to SYDNEY

up to 33 shore excursions included

20 nights | Departs 03 January 2020 Deluxe Window Suite from US $9,909 pp Deluxe Veranda Suite from US $11,909 pp

Romance of Paradise

Pacific Island Adventure

Ports Visited: Bora Bora, Pago Pago, Included 3-night Apia, Lautoka, Suva, Champagne Bay Sydney & Beyond (Espiritu Santo), Port Vila, Pine Island, post-cruise land Noumea and Brisbane (overnight) programme

PAPEETE to PAPEETE

10 nights | Departs 09 February 2021 Deluxe Window Suite from US $3,699 pp Deluxe Veranda Suite from US $5,199 pp Ports Visited: Papeete (overnight), Moorea, Fakarava, Nuku Hiva (Marquesas), Rangiroa, Bora Bora (overnight) and Raiatea

The All-Inclusive Regent Experience: • 490 guests, all-suite, 90% private balcony accommodations • Unlimited Shore Excursions • 1-Night pre-cruise hotel package for Concierge Suites and Higher • Unlimited WiFi (minimum one login per suite) • Unlimited beverages including fine wines and premium spirits • Open bars and lounges PLUS in-suite mini-bar replenished daily • Three gourmet restaurants including the iconic steakhouse Prime 7 • Complimentary 24-hour room service • All staff gratuities included

Established Travel Partner for 21 years Janine Pretorius Tel: 012 664 0925 janinep@encorecruises.co.za

www.encorecruises.co.za

Cruise fares are subject to change and availability at the time of reservation, and are quoted per person. Terms and Conditions apply.

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Karl Lagerfeld

is dead. The fashion world mourns.

An international fashion icon and celebrity, a sartorial superstar, a man of unique style and talent, the godfather of fashion, an extraordinary creative mind with endless imagination, entirely of the zeitgeist, there are numerous accolades and tributes honouring Karl Lagerfeld (1933–2019) following the announcement of his death in February 2019. Creative Director of Chanel Fashion House since 1983, he was a man ahead of his time with a natural sense of repartee and self-mockery. Lagerfeld lived in Paris with his beloved cat, a red point Birman named Choupette. He dressed first ladies, celebrities around the world from supermodels to singers, editors and starlets and juggled myriad jobs up to the time of his death

By Sylvia Sibbald

Anna Wintour wrote on the 22 February 2019: Karl Lagerfeld was a standard unto himself.

He defined what it means to be a twenty-firstcentury designer, and he did it with humor and joy. It’s doubly painful to have lost him because he never fell out of love with his work or with the world, and his death marks the end of the era of craftspeople who could do it all. Karl was the living soul of fashion: restless, forward-looking, and voraciously attentive to our changing culture. He recognized earlier than most that ready-to-wear wasn’t just couture-lite but the vibrant center of the new, accomplished woman’s lifestyle. And at a time when his peers were seeking shelter in fashion houses, he branched out alone as perhaps the world’s most dazzling freelancer, designing multiple labels with electric energy. I’ve joked that Karl was a one-man superbrand, as distinctive as the Chanel suit he imbued with a second life.

To me, however, he was something more. Through decades of adventures and misadventures, he was a true and loyal friend.

In the fashion world, he needed no introduction.

Frequently nicknamed ‘Kaiser Karl’, his signature white hair in a ponytail (from 1977– he powdered his hair to ensure the colour was exactly right), black sunglasses, fingerless

and high starched collars with dark suits created his flamboyant persona.

He never stopped working and was described

by Vogue as the ‘unparalleled interpreter of the moment’ with steps that he walked like a dancer with precision and usually grace.

Immediately recognisable, he was known for his sharp tongue, and creative power for the revival of Chanel and most agree he can truly lay claim to the phrase, a fashion legend.

Surrounded by beautiful people, both acolytes and stunning models, he created an entrance and atmosphere by just being there. He was emphatic in his beliefs about how to live, work and dress and asserted that ‘trendy is the last stage before tacky’ and ‘sweatpants are a sign of defeat’. He became known as the Master of the one-liner for his outspoken opinions as much as his designs over time.

Born in Germany, his family emigrated to France, and he completed his education at Lycée Montaigne focusing on drawing and history.

In 1955 (aged 21), after winning the coats category in the design competition sponsored by the International Wool Secretariat, he was hired by Pierre Balmain where he stayed for three years. He moved to Jean Patou where he was appointed as artistic director and

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involved in ten haute couture collections followed by a brief stint at Tiziano, a couture house in Rome. In 1964, he started freelancing for Chloe starting with designing only a few pieces but soon took on the design for the whole collection. The following year he worked for a short period with Curiel and then began his collaboration with Fendi (19652019) to modernise their fur line. In 1982, Chanel asked him to design for the house, and he would go on to redefine the traditions while continuing to pay homage to Chanel subverting her ideas with his contemporary take on her most famous designs.

Lagerfeld made Chanel’s bouclé tweed, pearls, dual-toned footwear and interlocking C’s cult items for new generations internationally.

Few thought he would be able to bring the near-dead brand at the time back to life and introduced a revamped ready-to-wear fashion line. In recent years, Lagerfeld conceived Chanel’s métiers d’art, runway shows aimed at highlighting the expertise of houses such as Desrues, Lessage and Barrie Knitwear, now retained under Chanel’s Parraffection umbrella.

Stephanie Zacharek, film critic for TIME in New York wrote on 21 February: Humans who make beautiful things are not always beautiful people, at least not in the way we’d like them to be. But if Karl Lagerfeld, who died on Feb. 19 at 85, wasn’t always kind–he was well known for his wicked, sometimes cruel quips–he was so exquisitely distinctive, as a personality and as a designer, that ignoring him was impossible.

Diane Kruger with Karl Lagerfeld

By the 1980s he was a major celebrity in the fashion world, loved by the press who he entertained with his changing tastes and quick wit. He developed a reputation of jumping from one designer to another but in each case, with resounding success, so his career changes cannot be criticised. In 1984, he founded his own line, Karl Lagerfeld asserting that ‘I’ve not been dreaming all my life to have my name over a shop. Now, we’ll put it there because it’s the right moment to do it; and I made this name, why not use it?’ However, Lagerfeld sold the brand to the Tommy Hilfiger group in 2005 continuing as its chief creative and directly involved in the design. Apax Partners is the current owner

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Above: Karl Lagerfeld arriving for the Chanel dinner in 2014

of the brand with 95 monobrand stores.

Unusually, in the fashion world, Lagerfeld drew his designs by hand.

The combination of his artistic instincts, business acumen and commensurate ego gave home a commercially victorious effect in the exclusive world of high fashion, and he was revered and feared in similar proportions. It is often said that his refusal to look at the past was one of his most significant assets.

Besides fashion, Lagerfeld was also a photographer and filmmaker, and regularly brought Chanel’s heritage to life through film and imagery, also filming and creatively directing all of Chanel’s advertising. In 2013, he realised one of his boyhood ambitions by becoming a professional caricaturist with his political cartoons appearing regularly in the German newspaper Frankfurter Allgemeine Zeitung. That year Lagerfeld directed the short film, Once Upon a Time,featuring Keira Knightley as Coco Chanel. He loved iPods and said, ‘the iPod is genius. I have 300’. Another love was literature, and his erudition was renowned.

In October 2018, Lagerfeld with Carpenters Workshop Gallery launched a collection of

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functional sculptures titled Architecture formed from Arabescato Fantastico, a rare white marble with black veins and black Nero Marquina marble with creamy veins inspired by antiquity and modern mythology. Items included gueridons, tables, lamps, consoles, fountains and mirrors.

He remained alone most of his life. There was an 18-year relationship with French aristocrat and socialite Jacques de Basher (1951-1989) also he insisted the relationship was never sexual. His best beloved, Choupette is a white cat and his muse and it surprises few that the object of his affections was not human and very small. Lagerfeld had numerous homes over the years from an apartment in Paris to an 18th-century chateau in Brittany decorated in the Rococo style and an apartment in Monte Carlo. He owned an apartment in Manhattan but never moved in, a summer villa in Biarritz, a house in Vermont and finally made his home in Quai Voltaire in Paris. Lagerfeld was himself strongly affected by fashion. One instance that demonstrated this was when he joined Hedi Slimane backstage at the Dior Homme show in 2001 and was so keen to wear one of the skinny-fit Dior suits that he lost 40kg.

Lagerfeld lived a life of glamour, controversy and scandal and was often the subject of criticism and appreciation. He got into trouble for offending many but also complimented those he admired, and his observations were laconic and typically astute regarding the fashion

Karl with Jerry Hall and other model in 1984

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industry or state of the world. Lagerfeld knew his stuff and was not afraid to voice his opinion.

There is no doubt he enjoyed this, although he often declared that his provocative persona was an act. It is said that fashion is merely an expression, and the latter is morally neutral, and it was so in the era that Lagerfeld dominated and where he held enormous power.

Some say he could have used this influence to make fashion more joyful, but he was seldom benevolent as profit was his calling and misogyny his method although while alone at home, he idolised his cat. His couture shows dominated the fashion machine and affirmed what was lovely and what was not, what should be noticed and who should be ignored. It was his power that enabled this and individual items such as perfumes and handbags–as most cannot afford couture–offering an ever-receding image of beauty that any normal woman could never hope to achieve. Those who wore his clothes were as insubstantial as a short-lived dream, very young and very small appearing almost newly born and unblemished, existing only for the adornment of Lagerfeld’s feathers and boas.

Being young and lovely is but a fleeting moment in a woman’s life, and he offered little for those who had moved on from this time. Younger woman formed the clay for the myth he craved placing many in unhappy competition for their younger selves, creating destruction and sadness for that very soul that fashion is supposed to release. At Chanel, older women were employed but most sought continuously to rediscover their youth with over smooth and indistinct faces, almost revealing women unhappy with their maturity and still seeking their youthful image. Despite this, he formed strong relationships with many women who became long-standing brand ambassadors.

He never made the clothes himself, and it was as if they were almost incidental to his art as he created his powerful and spurious myths. His art had an enormous impact on women internationally, not only creating a dislike for the ageing bodies but enchanting them to collude with him in his world. During his rule, the apex of beauty belonged only to

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those who are imaginably rich adding power to the gospel of prosperity that ruled this age and created dissatisfaction and anger among many. Perhaps he was just a handmaiden to the unequal world we have shaped supplying a transient loveliness in his wake. His spectacular Chanel shows were on their own astonishing from apocalyptic themes with smoke and ash, underwater effects and in 2014, a supermarket-themed show with Chanel food and household products. The idea for the spring/ summer catwalk in 2015 incorporated models staging a feminist protest with political placards and for Chanel’s spring/summer show in 2019, he transformed the Grand Palais in a beach! Remarkably, this part of this style was the antithesis of the intimacy created by Coco Chanel with her private salons in the 1940s and 50s but vital to propelling the house of Chanel forward.

Paris Fashion Week is always one of the highlights of the fashion world. In March 2019 at the Grand Palais show, Chanel showcased Karl Lagerfeld’s last collection created by the designer before his death and in his honour, it started with a one-minute silence and a recording of the designer speaking before the collection as an emotional farewell to him.

Illustrations of both Chanel and Lagerfeld on the seats were accompanied by the simple words ‘the beat goes on’. Faithful to his astonishing style that transformed runway shows into million-dollar Insta-bait spectacles, the scenery was spectacular with bright blue skies and a mountain-range background as the setting to a ski resort replete with faux snow and 12 Alpine chalets, not to mention the snow-covered runway. The collection was ski-ready. Moonboots, goggles, colour-blocked puffers and sports jackets appeared along with primary colours such as teal, turquoise and hot pink, tweed two pieces, dogtooth coats and feather dresses for those who were there not to ski, but to make the most of the aprèsski and sleek ready-to-wear accessories were included in the resort collection. Chanel is a joyous brand for many, and this collection emphasised that joy.

The fashion world will miss this man, his wit and his influence.

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THE TALE OF TWO CITIES LeKap editor, Steve Swanepoel , and Richard Webb share a tale of two McLarens in Cape Town and London and ask if the amazing McLaren 570S Spider could be a dying breed ...

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Charles Dickens’ epic novel, A Tale of Two Cities deals with the major themes of duality, revolution and resurrection, which are still very topical.

In the U.K. and elsewhere, the sale of diesel and petrol powered cars will be banned from the year 2040. This seems to be a sorry inevitability for enthusiastic drivers the world over. As much as we may look back and rejoice at well over a century of combustion engine largesse, times are a-changing. While driving the 570S Spider in England recently it made me realise that titanic cars like these are approaching their last decades.

It’s a McLaren, so let’s start with the numbers, 0-100km/h in 3.2 seconds (incredible for a car without four wheel-drive). The maximum speed is 327km/h with the roof up. It’s imbued with all of the good bits required of a supercar – namely the mid-engined layout, spaceship looks and high drama doors. But this is different.

You don’t seem to feel the haughty, sometimes difficult nature of a highly-strung performance car.

Inside, it’s nicely finished. A touchscreen at the top of the centre console limits the number of buttons to deal with, so it is unfussy, effective, simple and easy to get to know. The rest of the important controls like the mode switching rotaries in the Active Dynamics Panel for ‘Comfort’, ‘Sport’ and ‘Track’ are lower down.

As expected, there are lashings of carbon and Alcantara. The seats are firm at first but you soon thank them for holding you in place when at speed. You sit low but vision is excellent, aside from the rear three quarter view that is hindered by the buttresses.

Most convertible cars suffer a weight penalty through the extra stiffening required, but this series is based around a carbon ‘tub’, so it doesn’t need any extra strengthening. The only weight gain is the 46kg from the roof mechanism itself.

Driving this car out of London and into the British countryside during a heatwave was about as close as I could get to that remarkable sweeping blacktop in and around Cape Town. That pleasure was taken up by Le Kap publisher Steve Swanepoel.

In Cape Town our McLaren experience began at the Daytona dealership located at the V&A Waterfront. This ‘boutique style’ dealership, with its head office in Johannesburg, is home to McLaren, Aston Martin and Rolls Royce.

Upon our arrival at the dealership, Le Kap magazine features editor, Stephanie Swanepoel and I were greeted by a brand new Vega Blue 570S and the very passionate about McLaren branch manager, Jonathan Hugo. After a quick introduction to the car and it’s easy to operate systems we were ready to take to the scenic routes the Cape Peninsula has to offer.

I was amazed at the more than ample head room with the roof up and also the plenty leg room to accommodate my 1,96m frame.

The driver orientated interior is minimalistic, with very functional and beautifully crafted instrumentation. Some may find it tricky getting in and out of the vehicle, however the 570S has a ‘comfort entry’ option, which automatically pushes the driver’s seat back and retracts the steering wheel, hence allowing for ease of access.

Visibility is particularly good due to slim door pillars. >

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Labelled by the manufacturer as the entry level car in their stable, the 570S is powered by McLaren’s ubiquitous twin-turbocharged 3.8-litre V8 petrol engine, also fitted to the Coupé and GT versions, which produces blistering performance.

From the moment we entered the Cape Town morning traffic it became apparent the 570S has significant street presence, judging from the reaction of pedestrians and fellow motorists. There is little doubt that the 570S will have a negative effect on the sales of its cabriolet rivals such as the Porsche 911 Turbo Cabriolet, Ferrari 488 Spider and the Audi R8 Spyder.

One might assume that with the impressive statistics, the 570S Spider would be a handful to drive, but the contrary applies, being incredibly easy to drive, however at the same time extremely exciting. In automatic mode the gearbox does a phenomenal job of transmitting the engine’s massive torque smoothly, or should the driver opt to take control manually via the steering-wheel mounted paddles, it moves between the gears rapidly, allowing one to experience the capabilities of the McLaren v8.

The centre console has the main drive settings, such as a big, bold engine start / stop button and two chunky aluminium dials that change the Handling (H) and Powertrain (P) from ‘Normal’ to ‘Sport’ or ‘Track’ respectively. I found myself regularly switching between normal and sport to experience the thrill of driving this car in the manner for which it is clearly intended, to go fast – real fast. Sadly we did not have enough time over the few days to experience the ‘track’ settings as this is best left for track days.

I selected ‘normal’ as we left the dealership and headed out towards Hout Bay and over the scenic m6 mountain pass between Camps Bay and Hout Bay. The 570S active driving dynamics system allows one to adjust the car’s suspension to suit different environments. For our scenic drive

I found it best to leave the car in ‘Comfort mode’, which would be ideal for everyday use, while selecting the ‘Sport’ setting firms the car up. As aforementioned, ‘Track mode’ should be reserved for those track days. The 570S Spider’s steering may be assumed a tad heavy for some in town driving, but it weights up superbly at speed and offers perfect driver feedback, with information about available traction on the front tyres and thus keeps one engaged in the thrill of pushing the boundaries from one corner to the next.

I used our drive towards Camps Bay to familiarise myself with the instrumentation and various other driver settings. After about 30 minutes of posing the beautiful machine around Sea Point and Camps Bay, to the delight of onlookers, I was feeling very comfortable enough with the 570S to begin pushing boundaries.

Leaving Camps Bay and onto the scenic pass towards Hout Bay I switched the settings from ‘normal’ to ‘sport’ and pushed the ’active’ button in the central control to activate my selection. An amber ring light lit up to inform me that I was now in full control and ready for some action. As we entered the sweeping mountain pass I scanned the road ahead for signs of any approaching traffic and slowed the McLaren down entirely before plunging the accelerator pedal hard against the carpets. The 570S responded instantaneously and we felt as if a shot of high quality adrenalin had been pumped into our veins as the engine revs climbed rapidly. I tapped the right paddle to change gear each time the rev counter approached 5000 rpm.

The shifts between gears were near seamless apart from the engine exhaust emitting a gratifying ‘pap’ sound between gear changes.

After only three or four shifts we found ourselves travelling at breathtakingly speed and to slow matters down I firmly pushed the brake pedal down while simultaneously shifting gears. It was literally like hitting a wall as the revs plummeted as rapidly as they had peaked as the carbon-ceramic brakes brought the car down to around a crawling 40 km/h. I repeated this process a number of times over the pass after checking for traffic and then slowing down

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to a crawl and again accelerating hard. My confidence grew with the car each time and its capabilities and the amazing amount of grip from the rear 285/35 R20 Pirelli P Zero Corsas and the 225/35 R19 front tyres impressed.

and you’ll see that familiar 3.8-litre twin-turbo V8, which provides ferocious drive to the rear wheels through a seven-speed ‘Seamless Shift’ gearbox. It’s smooth and the delivery is more linear than almost any other car I have driven.

The thrill of the 570S is intoxicating and teases one to go faster and corner harder, and wow, does this baby McLaren do it easily. With the roof up and driving the car in a normal manner the McLaren 570S is surprisingly quiet with little intrusive engine noise, but driving this uncompromisingly powerful beast at normal speed feels so wrong.

On a brisk run, it talks to you more than most of its natural competitors. It understeers a bit if you enter a bend with too much speed, allowing you to regain composure and to summon up the talent to get it right at the next apex. You are never unsure about what the car is doing when pushing hard cross-country, especially in its ‘Sport’ setting.

The 570S comes with a plethora of equipment as standard, including its climate control, leather seats and the 7.0 inch touchscreen infotainment system, complete with navigation and Bluetooth. I don’t often rave about automotive sound systems, but the 12 speaker Bowers & Wilkins audio system is exceptional.

But you don’t need to be heroic to get the best out of it. When you just want to cruise, ‘Comfort’ takes it down a few notches, making everything calm while you compose yourself. The steering works beautifully, with a technical precision and sensual tactility unmatched by almost any other car. This is a car that can be used daily because it’s more flattering most of the time. It is a beautiful car, one that combines the joy of open-top motoring with sheer driving pleasure.

Whether in city traffic or speed inviting mountain passes the 570S takes it all in its stride, coping easily with the traffic and cruising effortlessly on freeways. One of the outstanding aspects of 570S is the manner in which it finds its flow. It hugs corners with surgical precision and phenomenal grip. At times the 570S Spider can squeeze the air out of your lungs and particularly if one is not accustomed to excessive acceleration and g-forces, but it is easy to position this beauty on the road with its perfect driving position and in my opinion arguably offers the most sensational steering of any car at supercar level.

Two days later we sadly had to return the McLaren - parting with the key left me with another ‘must-have’ item added to my bucket list.

Back in London, accessing the sun was easy, thanks to a two-piece ‘Z-folding’ hardtop, which slots neatly under its buttressed aft-deck at speeds of up to 25mph in just 15 seconds. Delve further within

So, will legislation kill off cars like the 570S Spider? Well, yes and no. Purely petrol-powered cars like these will be phased out and we will remember cars like these as representing a pinnacle point.

But it’s not all gloom.

The 570S is one of the Woking brand’s ‘Track 22’ cars - one of 15 new cars - or derivatives - to be launched by 2022. In a concerted move beyond ‘conventional’ petrol powered engines, at least half of these new cars will feature some sort of hybrid technology. Even a full Electric Vehicle ‘Ultimate Series’ car is under evaluation, so keep those Kleenex in the cubby-hole for now and revel in this, the cream of the Sports Series crop. Dickens’ oft quoted line, ‘It was the best of times, it was the worst of times’ may have turned out quite prophetic.

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SIFU

By Marrion Pfeiffer

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here is no direct translation to this word that denotes the Finnish art of inner strength, but it is understood to embody tremendous determination and dignity in the face of adversity and the ability to finish a task successfully despite the odds. The question is if it is possible to learn this ability and the answer is both intriguing and challenging. The word comes from ‘sisus’ meaning quite literally ‘guts’ or ‘the intestines’ in Finnish and some consider it an essential part of the Finnish national character.

In what may have been the first use of sisu in the English language, in January 1940, Time magazine reported: ‘The Finns have something they call sisu. It is a compound of bravado and bravery, of ferocity and tenacity, of the ability to keep fighting after most people would have quit and to fight with the will to win. The Finns translate sisu as “the Finnish spirit” but it is a much more gutful word than that. Last week the Finns gave the world a good example of sisu by carrying the war into Russian territory on one front while on another they withstood merciless attacks by a reinforced Russian Army. In the wilderness that forms most of the Russo-Finnish frontier between Lake Laatokka and the Arctic Ocean, the Finns definitely gained the upper hand.’

Also, in 1940, The New York Times published an article by Hudson Strode, a professor of English at the University of Alabama, entitled ‘Sisu: A Word that explains Finland.’ He wrote, ‘It is not easily translated, because no other language has its precise equivalent.’

The concept goes back more than 500 years and incorporates tenacity, willpower, bravery and resilience amongst others. Some see it as being an all-purpose philosophy for life when an individual faces challenges that surpass the ordinary but also helps with the usual difficulties confronted in daily life.

Sisu takes on a mythical quality as it seems to appear when someone feels they have reached the end of their preconceived abilities in a situation or situations that are more demanding than usual. It’s a second wind providing inner strength to continue when you think you can no longer do so. A Finnish bishop, Daniel Juslenius, defined ‘sisucunda’ in 1745 as the place in the human body where strong emotions arise and initially, for many, it represented a bad quality such as not being able to take orders from others. However, Finnish intellectuals later embraced sisu positively as a mainly Finnish quality after their country gained independence from Russia in 1917

and started the process of building a new nation. In other words, it was the social glue that helped redefine a country. Sisu offered positivity, a reason for surviving the war and that there was something exceptional about the ability of the Finns to endure such a catastrophe with honour.

Sisu is also often used to explain the sporting achievements and feats of physical endurance and the first individual to become a national symbol of this strength was Veikka Gustafsson in the 1990s when he climbed Mount Everest in 1993. By 2009, he had climbed all 14 of the world’s 8000m peaks without supplementary oxygen. More recently companies such as Nokia refer to the guts of their company using the word sisu in that they are determined to overcome all obstacles involving the competitive mobile phone markets. A trendy bumper sticker in the US in the Michigan region where there are many of Finnish descent says ‘got sisu?’. With its increase in popularity and cultural significance, sisu is appearing in many brand names in Finland and internationally, as a boy’s name and the name given to festivals, a hedge-fund in London, a mountain and sporting activities.

However, sisu also has its downfalls. It has a significant element of stubbornness, a silent ability to focus relentlessly on something that would not even be attempted by most. It makes it hard to ask for help, so too much sisu may be damaging and become an unforgiving attitude imposed on others. Compassion for yourself and others is essential should you enrol in the pursuit of sisu.

The younger generation in Finland feel the role of sisu as its social glue is decreasing as they think it is no longer important.

Other countries have comparable concepts, the traditional British ‘stiff upper lip’ or the Japanese ‘ganbaru’ meaning continuing resolutely through harsh times. Sisu seems to have captured the international imagination – possibly linked to the idea that the Nordic countries have a secret to personal fulfilment. Positive psychology is implementing sisu as a term and considers that it will contribute to understanding resilience, achievement of goals and positive thinking. Finland may have the monopoly but it’s a universal capacity and we all as individuals have the potential for sisu as the transformative power of narratives like this one is widely acknowledged. In essence, it appears that by adopting sisu it comes to life in a dynamic process to prime the behaviour of any nation.

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Why ‘unexceptional’ is the new exceptional To most people with a pulse, cars are more than just tools of travel, they take an essential role in an emotional life, says Richard Webb.

By Richard Webb

We spend so much time in cars that it is unavoidable that they should feature heavily in our most treasured memories. Cars are emotional triggers; it is no surprise that our enthusiasm for them is potent and powerful.

We feel a much greater connection with the cars our uncles drove, our first cars, the cars that got us through college; those humdrum everyday drivers that none of us will ever forget... because that’s where the stories of our lives unfolded. We can admire an Aston Martin or a Ferrari, but we will never feel the same way about it as we do about our first Mini or Escort.

So really, it is the unexceptional cars that we truly love, because they are part of the story of our lives. We’ve all heard about the Goodwood Festival of Speed or the hundreds of exotic Concourse d’ Elegance events around the world, but British insurance firm Hagerty International have organised their fifth annual ‘Festival of the Unexceptional’ to honour these mundane but very rare cars.

These cars were the workhorses of their day: the base model

saloons, hatchbacks and estates that were sold in their millions between roughly 1968 and 1989 and are now so rare. A fivestrong judging panel of mundane motoring masterminds admired a selection of taupe, primrose yellow and lilac coloured family saloons and estates, many equipped with rubber flooring, squidgy vinyl seats, no radios, manual wind-up windows and ‘genuine’ faux Formica wooden inserts.

‘It was created in a response to highlight the attrition rate of some of the best loved vehicles of our more recent motoring history,’ says Hagerty’s Angus Forsythe. ‘It’s a celebration of everyday classics, the mundane and the oft-forgotten.’

To me, this is a refreshing take on a car show awash with multi-million rand exotics completely out of the reach of so many. It should come as no surprise that the cars that really touch our lives are not the outof-reach exotica that fill our youthful dreams, but the family cars that filled the driveways of our parents. After all, when last did you see an unmolested Ford Cortina or Citroën GS on South African roads?

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CLAIM A COPY OF THE OFFICIAL COLLECTOR’S COFFEE TABLE BOOK IN OUR FREE READER OFFER.

Send your telephone number and name via email to: info@ lemagpublications.com to enter our free prize draw to stand a chance to win this book and a set of Unexceptional playing cards, published by Narrative Media www.narrativeafrica.com

ONE CENTURY IN A BOTTLE

Four generations of Cellar Masters have crafted twelve hundred eaux-de-vie to establish Louis XIII as the most prestigious spirit on Earth. A closely guarded secret since 1874.

www. www.

-cognac.com .com

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MORPHEUS

By Juliette Corrin

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n the 15th of June 2018, the gaming giant of Macau, Melco Resorts opened Morpheus, its most extravagant and sensational hotel ever situated in the City of Dreams development on the Cotai Strip.

Macau’s City of Dreams is an integrated entertainment resort combining electrifying entertainment including a casino, a range of accommodation, two theatres, shopping malls and more than 20 restaurants with regional and international menus.

This flagship hotel for the brand is a creation which surpasses the imagination in many of its features. In fact, the number of superlatives used to describe this structure is beyond the norm, such as ‘an impossible building’ or ‘a unique masterpiece’.

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Morpheus pool

Designed by the late legendary Iraqi-British architect, Dame Zaha Hadid DBE, known for her love of strong lines and sensuous aesthetics, this high-rise structure has no single internal columns, but is the world’s first free-form exoskeleton-bound, highrise architectural composition incorporating architectural and technological breakthroughs and has a curvaceous lattice-like covering. Forty-two stories high and adding to Macau’s already glitzy skyline, the building is designed to look like a number eight – a very auspicious number in Chinese culture, connected with luck and prosperity.

There are 770 rooms, suites and villas with three ultra-luxurious pool villas and six duplex villas, designed by international renowned designer, Peter Remedios. The two-floor duplex villas are known as the sky villas, some with pools, and are the absolute pinnacle of exclusiveness (priced at around MOP$89,998 per night). These are located on the top floor and offer private gyms and massage quarters, with a gaming area reserved exclusively for these VIP guests.

Laurence Ho, Chairman and Chief Executive Officer of Melco Resorts and Entertainment Limited, asserts that this hotel with its

facilities aims at the premium mass sector of the market and relies on its staff to entice VIPs and high-rollers to Morpheus.

The top-class clientele is better dressed, cultured and courteous and highlights Melco’s approach to place itself at the high end of Macau’s gaming industry. ‘Right from the start, I was determined to build something unique and extraordinary,’ said Laurence HO. ‘We’re not just opening a new hotel—we’re opening a whole new chapter for Macau. We’ve built a landmark for the city and an icon for Asia.’ Macau is semi-autonomous from China and the only place in the country where gambling is legal and revenues surpass those of Las Vegas. There is something of a renaissance in the area as gaming venues rebound after being stricken by a clampdown on gambling orchestrated by China’s President Xi Jinping in 2012.

Pronounced by some as an impossible structure, the iconic architecture with its surreal appearance highlights numerous astonishing features, embodying a matchless concept of refinement, elegance and meticulous contemporary hedonism. Balancing simplicity and style in modern expression, Morpheus advocates a philosophy and excellence in substance. The two towers connect at podium level and at the roof. The distinctive appearance is detailed in the fluid forms fashioned as an upright extrusion of its rectangular

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footprint, with a sequence of spaces carved through the centre of the building. Architects describe this as an urban window to link the hotel’s interior communal areas to the city. There is a 35m high atrium with strong futuristic lines and skeletal steel structures and 12 exposed high-speed glass elevators to transport guests within the building’s figure eight, providing a commanding view of Macau as they swoosh up and down the impressive foyer. Interiors are maximised by the creation of spaces that are not interrupted by supporting walls or columns.

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The designers of this extravagantly luxurious resort have gone above and beyond in sparing no expense in its construction - with a final cost of approximately USD1.1 billion and the creation of 1,300 work opportunities in Macau. Guests will also find a rooftop or sky pool 130m above the ground, reflecting the exoskeleton in the water which offers excellent photo opportunities.

A fascinating feature is the Morpheus Spas offering a ‘Spa Butler’ concept and the Snow Garden with real snow. The two restaurants managed by Chef Alain Ducasse, who has earned the most Michelin stars on record, are named Alain Ducasse at Morpheus and Voyages by Alain Ducasse. These add to Melco’s efforts to court the trendiest luxury-seeking crowds to this new dining gourmet hotspot. On the podium level, one finds the first Pierre Hermé Lounge in Greater China, as well as a fine dining restaurant called Yi. The artwork is remarkable and continually changing, including work from Jean Michel Othoniel, KAWS and Thilo Heinzmann. Fun, contemporary and eye-catching, there are hot pink polar bears

by Paola Pivi and a fat car sculpture by Erwin Wurm while plantinspired patterns by Shinju Ohmaki line the walls. The uniforms worn by personnel are called ‘unicouture’ (unique plus couture) and was designed by Barney Cheng from Hong Kong and the hotel’s ambassadors don disco-inspired outfits in beautiful Loro Piana fabrics.

Duplex Villa

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YACHT ETIQUETTE

By Daphne McFarlane

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tiquette – an 18th-century French word related to a set of rules for polite behaviour, especially among a particular class of people or in a particular profession (Collins Dictionary)

Fast forward 21st-century – there is now an etiquette guide for the expected behaviour for those who may be lucky enough to be invited on board a superyacht to while away the summer days. An invitation to a superyacht can be compared to receiving a window into a parallel universe as a holiday on board is more escapist, more luxurious and more indulgent than any other vacation on earth.

Firstly, if you receive one of these sought-after invitations, answer it promptly as space on board is usually limited and don’t ask to confirm your acceptance at a later date as this may put your host in an awkward position when making his plans. Also, don’t make fixed bookings as yachts are weather dependent and schedules may change for various reasons, so investigate alternatives when making reservations – check regarding the best time for arrival and the anticipated departure port. Those in the know are well versed in ‘boat etiquette’ related to the dos and don’ts as a guest when you embark on a holiday, cruising along a temperate coastline somewhere in the world. Your hosts are charming and there are other entertaining invitees plus an attractive crew on standby to meet all your requests. Arrangements are complete, a suitable

summer wardrobe has been selected, and the body has been tuned and toned to meet the ‘bikini body’ requirements. Note soft luggage is easier to pack away on board, leave your shoes behind as these can dirty and damage the beautiful decking and high heels are out of the question unless you are otherwise advised. However well-organised one may be, there are still some rules that are not overt, but nevertheless are definitely there and recognised by those in the know.

The trick to avoiding what might be referred to as the ‘permanent sunburn of shame’ is to be prepared as many are apparent. On arrival at your superb craft, don’t swagger or strut on to the boat – many seem to think that the bigger the boat, the more entitled you are to sashay on board with pride. Your hosts will have made special preparations to accommodate you on their pride and joy, so be admiring of their efforts. Never bring your uninvited companions on board, either with you or invite them to visit you – this is considered extremely rude. Your hosts and captain will have decided on the route for your voyage, and asking the captain to change course for your convenience is impolite. Usually, there is a set programme that is discussed with guests the night before, providing the itinerary with usually some downtime for everyone. Pushing other guests off the deck into the water, even at what may be considered the most hilarious moment, is not done – never!

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Delicious meals are part of the holiday, the chef works hard to prepare these, so be on time for meals, otherwise all guests will be kept waiting. Chefs are by tradition highly strung, so changes to the menu for you because of allergies or other reasons should be requested in good time and one should be flexible if the offering is not as perfect as you imagine – you changed it after all. If dinner is planned on shore for an evening, it will usually have been selected especially by your host and it is advisable not to query his choice.

Frequently, meals on shore visits are paid for by guests and not by the host.

Avoid drinking more than you can handle and becoming a nuisance – accidents on board can be dangerous as the sea is a mass of water with its own personality and falling into it is not the same as stumbling out of the restaurant onto the street. In the evenings, when your hosts retire, so do you. When they so courteously say, ‘carry on without us’ they don’t really mean it. The crew is also waiting for you to leave so that they too can finish the day’s work.

One of the joys of being on a yacht is dancing and it works even for those of us who just never get it quite right. Why? The reason is because the gently rolling vessel will appear to give you rhythm, although you normally have three left feet, particularly after those delicious cocktails.

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Your cabin is cleaned by the crew and they should not be required to pick up your things off the floor – they are there to serve you throughout your stay so don’t ask them to do anything you couldn’t do yourself and never be over-familiar. Do not ever enter their quarters as it is their private space and considered off limits. They are not guests and need to work or they can lose their jobs. Tips for the crew members making your stay so comfortable are essential – the no cash excuse no longer exists and transfer directly from your cell phone to the chief steward’s account.

Most superyachts have a selection of expensive and often unique water toys and there are times set aside for their use. The crew will help you – remember these are expensive toys, treat with care and listen to the guidelines as accidents at sea usually occur during water sports. Also, they are not there to look after your children if you are looking for some time out.

The trip can be compared to a house party, so bring a thoughtful gift – some suggest an item related to neutral luxury such as a case of fine wine and if you take some excellent photographs, share them with your hosts who will be delighted. Your floating holiday has involved care and planning by your hosts with a skilled and practised crew to take care of you, an itinerary to enjoy created with care, excellent cuisine and entertainment.

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THE ALLURE OF FORBIDDEN PLACES....

By Diane Stadler

Geoffrey Chaucer stated, ‘Forbid us something, and that thing we desire’ while Mark Twain said, ‘There is a charm about the forbidden that makes it unspeakably desirable.’ There is a consensus that the more something is forbidden, the more people want to do it.

Curiosity is an insatiable human condition and frequently causes us to go after the unattainable and in doing so, discover that we are never quite satisfied. There is an enormous number of things about different cultures and people around the globe that are forbidden culturally, legally, morally and the list goes on. But for adventurers and knowledge seekers, this relates mainly to those places that are out of bounds, those destinations or places we can never see unless we belong to a specific exclusive group authorised to do so or perhaps actually live there. Here, we explore some of these that remain out of reach to any travellers.

SNAKE ISLAND For those with a death wish, this would be the place to go if it was allowed. Snake Island or Ilha de Queimada Grande is home to the venomous golden lancehead viper regarded as the world’s most

Snake Island

poisonous snake, along with many other deadly species. This viper apparently melts human flesh which may be one of the reasons there is no line of tourists insisting that they wish to visit this place.

The island is 144km from the city of Sao Paolo in Brazil or 32km from the coast. The public is not admitted because it is so dangerous.

Visits are banned and only a few brave scientists have ever dared to visit the island. Measuring 110 acres, there are roughly 4,000 snakes at home here!

There are few visitors each year – mainly scientists who wish to study the snakes and from time to time the Brazilian Navy who tends the autonomous lighthouse constructed in 1909. Stories relating to those who succumbed to these deadly predators abound, such as the one relating to the last lighthouse keeper to occupy the island with his family. Rumour has it that they fled in terror when snakes crawled in through their windows and their bodies were found distributed across the island. Occasionally a hapless fisherman whose boat engine failed has lost his life here, but it is thought that poachers do successfully land on the island to catch a golden viper as outrageously high prices can be fetched on the black market.

Golden lancehead viper

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SVALBARD GLOBAL SEED VAULT One of the coldest locations in the world and open to only a few selected scientists, the Svalbard Global Seed Vault is home to roughly 4,000 different species of plant seeds from around the globe. The vault was designed as a backup storage facility and is on a remote island about 1,200km from the North Pole.

The objective is to preserve plant life by duplicating seed samples should a major disaster occur and threaten to kill off plant species.

Permafrost in the area offers an ideal storage temperature and the vault located 100m into the mountain is safe from rising sea levels and in a geographically stable region.

Norway considers this project as vital to safeguard the genetic material that is crucial to global food security. It can store 4,5 million crop varieties and currently holds more than 890,000 samples from around the world, including staple crops like maize, rice and wheat.

The Norwegian government proposes to spend about USD12,7 million to renovate the vault built ten years ago in a derelict Arctic coal mine as a store to safeguard the world’s crops and plants. Crops or plants destroyed by a disaster can be requested in the form of seeds to enable a country to revive its agricultural production. The first withdrawal was made in 2015 by researchers on request from Morocco and Lebanon to create seed banks after the area’s own seed bank was damaged during the civil war. After being regrown, the seeds were redeposited into the Norwegian vault in 2017.

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RECIPE FOR COCA-COLA

LASCAUX CAVES, FRANCE

Some say this recipe is safeguarded in a Georgia vault in the US and a trade secret rigorously preserved by a few of the company’s personnel. It is one of the most closely guarded secrets in the world, and the nearest you can get to discover the ingredients of the top-secret formula of this world-famous beverage brand is by travelling to Atlanta’s World of Coca-Cola vault exhibit. Dr John Pemberton invented Coca-Cola in 1886 and the original recipe called ‘Pemberton’s French Wine Coca’ is written on a piece of paper. His invention was partly a response to the prohibition in Georgia at the time as it contained alcohol.

These fantastic and somewhat surreal caves in the Dordogne area contain some of the earliest artwork discovered on earth, but are now closed by the French to tourists wishing to view the original paintings. This closure resulted from a fungal outbreak caused by carbon dioxide exhaled by people which it was feared would damage the pictures.

The mystery of the formula began when Dr Pemberton sold the exclusive rights in 1891 to Asa Candler who supposedly had all copies of the recipe destroyed trusting the memory of individual employees - a poor strategy for any major company but then CocaCola was not the billion-dollar behemoth it is today. The recipe was sold again in 1919 and Coca-Cola claims this was the first time it was written down, but this is dubious as Dr Pemberton would have kept notes in his pursuit of a cure for morphine addiction, one of which was his creation of Coca-Cola. Coca-Cola has denied the many claims and myths that circulated about the formula and its history, and as long as they continue to do so, it does not matter who has the recipe. This secrecy is a skilful market ploy creating the idea over generations that this drink was astounding and unique to the extent that on their 125th anniversary they moved the written details from one vault to an even more secure vault causing a media circus. The custom vault is now part of the ‘The World of Coca-Cola’ providing an interactive exhibit for the public and continuing its enigma that is seemingly out of reach to all but a few – the truth is no one quite knows.

In 1940, four teenagers walking their dog discovered the original cave when their dog fell into a hole. After crawling into a cave to rescue their pet, the boys found hundreds of prehistoric animals painted on its wall and ceiling. This fascinating treasure attracted the world’s attention, especially those involved in the world of anthropology and archaeology.

After World War II, the Lascaux Caves became a popular tourist attraction, but it was not until 1963 that the possibility of visiting these original masterpieces in situ was barred to the public.

The original caves are home to more than 600 paintings and 1000 engravings believed to have been created 20,000 years ago. The most fascinating features of the original work are the advanced techniques used, such as magnesium for the dark horns of a bull and softness for the muzzle of an animal, and this was created by blowing dried ochre paint through a tool made from hollow bird bones. The caves were sealed tightly underground and protected from temperature changes while the air remained extremely dry.

There are many mysteries here still unexplained by experts such as the fact that the works followed a particular style and code, so it is thought they were done by a small group within a few years.

However, whether these few years were within 100 or 1000 years

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is unknown, but these early artists passed their knowledge down through the generations.

The French government has spent a vast amount of money in building a near perfect replica to recreate the original cave, using the original hole accessed by the boys, leading from the museum with a specific sequence of events and sounds enabling visitors to have an authentic experience.

spears, fishing nets and basic outrigger canoes. They fish, hunt and collect wild plants but there is no evidence of farming or even fire, although it is thought they create fire from lightning strikes.

NORTH SENTINEL ISLAND

The island was first mentioned in the 1700s as being inhabited, and the few accounts that follow described the residents as either hiding or attacking them. In 1880, a British expedition succeeded in landing and noted paths and newly deserted villages but no people. After several days they captured an elderly couple and four children and took them back to Port Blair where the couple died and the children were quickly returned home with presents.

The leader of this expedition, Portman, returned several times claiming that he became fond of the natives and reported that their meetings with outsiders had caused them nothing but harm.

The islanders on this island off the Indian coast prefer to remain closed off from the rest of the world and will throw spears and stones to ensure their isolation and even fishermen venturing too close have been killed for their mistake. Like many other idyllic islands in the Indian Ocean, North Sentinel Island is fringed with beaches and palm trees in the Andaman archipelago of the Bay of Bengal.

However, it is described as the most dangerous and challenging place to visit - with inhabitants who are the most inaccessible in the world. It is estimated that they have occupied the island for about 60,000 years and remain defiantly independent, rebuffing any communication from outside. Known as the ‘Sentinelis’, they have attacked almost every outsider who had the misfortune of entering their territory. In 1896 an Indian convict washed up on their shore and was stabbed to death; in 1974 a film crew received a barrage of arrows; a helicopter checking the island after an earthquake was fired at and, as recently as 2006, fishermen who drifted into their waters were killed Their violent behaviour makes it impossible to observe them and little is known about their culture. Clearly, they have arrows,

They may be the last to remain so untouched by civilisation, but the question is why they are so aggressively insular? Should they be left alone even if this ends in their demise?

In 1967, there was an attempt to establish friendly contact but the Sentinelis withdrew rapidly into the jungle and rumours of gifts left were tainted with stories of pilfering in the name of collecting.

In 1991, a transient meeting took place, in that it was friendly, but later attempts to return were met with fierce resistance.

A 5km exclusion zone has been put in place around the island as a proactive way of discouraging any visitors and since 2005, contact has been strictly forbidden apart from officials attempting to ensure the health and food security of the inhabitants. Visitors are strictly prohibited.

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BANK OF ENGLAND VAULTS

VATICAN SECRET ARCHIVES

To find your way into the Bank of England Vaults in Threadneedle Street, London where piles of gold lie waiting in lustrous heaps, you would have to be a Houdini of note. Entry into this lock and key setting is known to a select few as a fifth of the world’s gold is hidden under the city of London - with an estimated value of 172 billion pounds sterling.

Actually, these may not be so secret any more, but you cannot get to peruse them unless you plan on becoming the Pope. The public can request to see any document older than 75 years but cannot visit the archives which are known to be enormous and hold many historical records such as Henry VIII’s request to annul the marriage to his first wife. Many query what is hidden away behind these doors, whether there is material related to extraterrestrials and demons in the catacombs. However, the reality is more realistic and therefore, more interesting. Handwritten letters from royalty, letters of excommunication such as that from Lincoln to excommunicate Martin Luther - it is a destination that would delight every scholar. The high-level nature of the documents makes them very closely guarded in that there could be evidence that the church was involved in Mussolini’s state-sponsored terror for example.

According to the BBC, the vaults hold 5,124 tonnes of gold, and the majority of the 6,256 tonnes are kept safe below the streets of London in a space measuring about 28,000 square metres. The gold bars weigh 12kg each with their value varying according to the markets and is considered a safe asset by many investors and often used as a barometer of their confidence.

The Bank of England apparently houses 18 strong rooms under its premises, nine for gold and the same number for cash. This institution is one of the most powerful in the UK responsible for interest rate settings, the issuing of bank notes and maintains investor confidence and one of the largest holders of gold globally.

The vaults spread over two floors holding the most substantial amount of gold in the world. Four hundred thousand gold bars are stored here, although only a minority are owned by the bank.

Eighty bars are stacked on a pallet and weigh a total of one tonne each. You can take a virtual tour online, but actually entering this spectacle of row upon row of gold bars is unlikely for most of us and a privilege for few.

The Latin name for the archives is Archivum Secretum Apostolicum Vaticanum and Secretum means personal or private, not secret.

There are collections of letters from the past four centuries from previous popes ensuring the historical importance of papal correspondence, state papers and account books. These remained locked away until 1881 when Pope Leo XIII allowed access to some researchers. Today, this has not changed. Only serious scholars with genuine credentials are allowed to enter the archives and the permit must be renewed every six months. Documents required must be requested and only three per day can be accessed.

Considering the files contain approximately 80km of shelving with

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papers dating back to the 8th century, the catalogues themselves must be impressive as there are 35,000 volumes in the selective catalogue on its own. Computers are allowed but no photography and no papers dated after 1939 are available, as well as the section relating to the personal affairs of the cardinals from 1922 onwards.

JIANGSU NATIONAL SECURITY EDUCATION MUSEUM This museum can be visited, but you must be Chinese. No foreigners are allowed into the realm of the nation’s spy gadgets and displays that reflect Chinese espionage over the years.

Lipsticks that are really pistolas, recording devices resembling calculators, the tricks and tools and show would challenge James Bond! The museum opened in 2009 and emerged as a showcase of curated propaganda about the threats made by foreign spies. The exhibits create a window on the full array of perceived national security threats that China wants its people to fear.

Visitors are reminded that Communist Party members became agents long before they won the civil war in 1949 and aims to mobilise the public to join the fight with a report-a-spy hotline predominately placed near the entrance.

Although most material is from recent years, security threats are organised into various sections, mostly by neighbouring countries.

There is space designated to older events such as CIA operatives caught during the Korean War in 1952, with a part allotted to

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the CIA, and recently added displays feature the last two foreign nationals put on trial in 2010. Much attention is given to domestic threats like Tibet, the Dalai Lama and banned groups such as the Turkestan Independence Movement.

There are not many visitors and only some accept the museum’s obvious statement in that the population need to remain vigilant about threats to national security. The collection is seen as too sensitive for foreign eyes although no one seems sure of the exact reasons.

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AREA 51 ‘The forbidden aspect of Area 51 is what makes people want to know what’s there,’ says aerospace historian and author Peter Merlin whose research has spanned more than three decades.

Also known as Groom Lake, this is a top-secret military base and airfield in the barren desert of southern Nevada and the site of experimental aircraft and weapon testing with access strictly banned and enforced to any civilian. Rumours include spaceships that have crashed to earth being hidden here to work on energy weapons. The public will never get there – deadly force is authorised to be used on any trespasser. Cameras see every angle, vehicles at strategic points are on guard and it is said even the movements of tortoises are monitored. All of this leads to wild conjecture, to say the least.

Alien conspiracies, the 1947 Roswell crash and more legends flourish, however, what is real and true is that Area 51 is real and active today. Chosen in late 1954 as a remote, covert location for training and testing of high-altitude reconnaissance aircraft and sanctioned by President Eisenhower, the site had initially been a World War II aerial gunnery range. The U2 programme began testing in 1955 and immediately reports of sightings of unidentified objects emerged, for example, the U-2 flying over 60,000 feet would have seemed entirely alien. Details could not be made public, so ‘natural phenomena’ or ‘high-weather altitude research’ were used as explanations. More information was released in 2013 and still today activities and flights continue with minimal details being made available.

Alien conspiracies began in 1989 when Bob Lazar claims to have seen aliens and alien spacecraft while employed at the base. Many discount these as fiction, some are offended, but the reality

remains a mystery and a subject of curiosity as no one knows for sure although there are many educated guesses and it remains a big tourism draw although visitors can only stand and gawk from the gates and know that their every move is monitored.

INTERIOR OF THE ISE GRAND SHRINE The Ise Grand Shrine, dedicated to the sun goddess Amaterasu, is located in the city of Ise, Mie-ken and only accessed by members of the Japanese Imperial family and selected priests. Dating back to the 3rd century, it is the most revered shrine and spiritual home of the Japanese and its national religion Shinto and visited by over six million pilgrims each year.

The sanctuary consists of a complex of 125 shrines, centred around the principal shrines of Naiku (inner shrine) and Geku (outer shrine) and these two are located about six kilometres from each other.

Another fascinating feature is that both of these shrines and the wooden Uji Bridge, which measures 100m over the Isuzu River, are rebuilt every 20 years to precise specifications, at enormous expense, as part of the Shinto belief of death and the renewal of nature and impermanence of all things. The buildings are forever new and forever ancient and original.

The main buildings are quite extraordinary examples of preBuddhist architecture, although you can get a good idea of what they look like by seeing the lesser shrine buildings. The style is characterised by extreme simplicity and antiquity and may not be used in the construction of any other shrine. It is a truly spiritual place in a picturesque area of Japan and is bordered by forests and mountains. Visitors can only see part of the main buildings as they are almost entirely concealed from view behind the wooden fences, adding to their sacred and spiritual quality and pilgrims offer their prayers from the gate.

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WHAT DEFINES LUXURY

By Juliette Corrin

“The question as to ‘what defines a luxury hotel?’ has to be carefully considered before you reply as there are many possible responses. Frequently, the answers will include all mod cons, excellent restaurants, spas and gyms, plus more, offered with seamless impeccable service and quality décor available at a price to suit the experience. But there is far more to defining luxury than this rather unexciting description.”

Luxury in terms of luxury hotels represents that which is an indulgence rather than a necessity, presenting extravagant and expensive surroundings, offering abundance and great comfort to their guests. Today, luxury hotels provide approximately half of available accommodation in the international market, roughly around 13 million rooms and projections are that by 2020, there will be more than 15 and a half million. The fundamentals such as cost, marketing trends or needs in the luxury hotel world are no longer enough to satisfy the ever more demanding consumers. More is required. Initially, hotels developed out of necessity as pit stops for exhausted travellers, and these same inns and guesthouses evolved over the centuries into this multi-billion-dollar industry. Widely acknowledged as the world’s first modern hotel, the Tremont House

in Boston, Massachusetts, opened in 1829 offering free soap, bellboys and internal plumbing and these features set it apart from its humbler predecessors.

So, what are the features that define luxury now? The Forbes Travel Guide which independently rates hotels, defines ‘elements of luxury’ as one of their main evaluation criteria. According to Chris Fradin, Vice President Europe for the Forbes Travel Guide, these are ‘standards that reflect detailed attention to the level of sumptuous comfort, choices and convenience provided.’

However, as with many other concepts, the term luxury is constantly evolving, particularly in the hospitality industry. Luxury can be more powerful than words. It may be that ‘wow’ factor that is beyond expectations, services, views, however, the tricky

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photo opposite page & above l Hôtel Plaza Athénée - Paris photo left & below l Saxon Hotel - Johannesburg

part is that it is also specific to the guest’s culture, background and expectations and depends on the situation.

Ascertaining what guests expect from a luxury hotel is challenging.

The word ‘luxury’ is overused, but still, for seasoned and demanding travellers a luxury hotel has to mean something specific because with their high prices high standards of hospitality are part of the deal. Essentially, reservations, checking in and checking out should be a smooth, efficient process without delays and the room you request should be precisely what you get. Elements can include the category or level, individual room classification such as petfriendly, allergen-free and physical >

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One & Only - Cape Town

location, either secluded or close to the action. What about ground floor, top floor, twin or king-size beds, balcony with or without plunge pool? One hotel in Georgia, Russia is known for having a range of pillows available in the foyer for their guests’ selection ensuring that they get exactly the right ones!

Today, luxury hotels internationally are very much driven by individuality. The accent is on the aesthetic importance of design that seeks to inspire guests and avoids replication at all cost. Many guests who stay in luxury hotels have homes that are of superior quality with the latest technology, fine foods and staff who take excellent care of them. They are not prepared to stay in a hotel which feels inferior to the place they call home, and this challenges hotels to keep a step ahead. Modern guests are smarter and more up to date than previous generations and expect the best from the experience and to enjoy excellent service culture and the best care. Existing brands must fight to remain up to date and preserve their brand and their existing clientele by offering an exceptional experience. While some still place value on a property’s honoured tradition, rich heritage and long-established conventions when selecting a luxury hotel, other high net worth individuals require innovation, personalisation and flexibility. Clients are more aware and informed than in previous decades about what is available, primarily through the endorsements on social media, and they seek constant stimulation from activities offered by their hotel, as well as

those that interact with the destination they have chosen.

Cultural immersion is just as important, and these travellers are more curious with much higher expectations, seeking authentic interaction with locals and consequently the luxury hotel must also be more creative to meet this demand. It must continuously evolve to keep up with its affluent patrons.

Guests should feel welcomed by correctly trained personnel who greet them with a smile, making them feel welcome and valued at the hotel. Whatever the details, the emphasis is on a meaningful experience, showing that the hotel has taken time to create a connection with those who stay there – it’s about personalisation and this appears to be the winning factor. Housekeeping should be quiet and dependable, and the nightly turndown service is essential. Even the smallest luxury boutique hotel should have at least one restaurant and a bar, attractively furnished with an abundant range of drinks and food on offer, as well as 24hour room service. Breakfasts are preferably included in the room rate and should offer a sumptuous feast of possibilities for those who delight in starting the day with an excellent meal.

So, what are the expectations in a luxury room? Essentially, exceptional quality everywhere! It must be beautiful and inviting, a place to spend time, with excellent and thoughtful aesthetic detail, lighting, original paintings or sculptures by celebrated artists

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photos above l Oyster Box - Durban

and excellent craftsmanship with no cheap touches. The design must be consistent with high-quality opulent furnishings in unique styles, if possible reflecting detailed attention to the level of comfort, choices and convenience for the guest. The bed should be king size with a first-rate mattress, smooth finely-textured all cotton sheets and a variety of pillow types available. Storage facilities should include ample drawers and closet space, with plenty of hangers (and not those attached to the rod). A suitable work surface, safe, flat screen TV, iPhone/iPod dock, WiFi, a quiet clock, coffee maker, full-length mirror, an efficient and quiet air conditioner with temperature settings, providing both hot and cold air on demand, are essentials. Bottled water should be on the house.

The bathroom must exceed expectations, with prestige or artisan toiletries and plenty of fluffy towels, robes and slippers and a makeup mirror with lights and racks or hooks for drying hand laundry.

Finishes in marble or tiles must be spotless and without chips or cracks.

His and hers wash basins, powerful water pressure in the shower, sufficient counter space, cupboards and a separate toilet are crucial.

The next requirement would be services. A new concept of wealth that has emerged with these upper-class travellers is wellness.

They seek to follow a lifestyle that is balanced and healthy, so the wellness centre is vital and must incorporate a variety of classes, from spinning to yoga and offer health-related food within this environment. Offerings should also include a 24-hour fitness centre

with a quality range of equipment, available personal trainers, and a swimming pool, if possible, connected to the spa which offers a variety of treatments and massages, some of which may be particular to the region. Another vital requirement is a social lobby area, which is away from the entrance and passing traffic to elevators and restaurants. This area should offer comfortable sofas, WiFi and a bar service. Then of course the necessary laundry, babysitting, pet sitting, dog-walking and concierge services have to be exceptional.

The individual holding the concierge position must most certainly have more knowledge than you can find on Google and be willing and available to tend to the more demanding requests and steer guests away from tourist traps towards the finer things in the surrounding areas. A private butler is pleasant having and takes the tedium out of unpacking and packing your suitcases.

Like many other sectors in our modern world, the hotel businesses have jumped on to the luxury bandwagon and the competition to be the best, to offer the most sumptuous and delightful experience to their guests, is fierce. Whether new or old, traditional or modern, boutique or 100-plus rooms, independent or corporately owned, in ‘luxury’ it is about creating a unique magical experience like no other - a ‘wow!’ that feeds the ego for everyone. The vision for Hôtel Plaza Athénée (Paris) says it all. ‘Once upon a time, the palace of tomorrow: the splendour and the intimacy, the hospitality and the décor, the past and the present.’

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‘City with Soul’

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‘Prague is the city where I was born and where I grew up. I feel a special bond with the city, not

only because of my childhood memories, but it is my experience every time I walk the streets of Prague - Romana

By Romana Kellnerova

The beautiful old city has the Vltava River flowing through its centre and is filled with ancient architectural marvels. Located in the heart of Europe Prague has been at the confluence of trade routes, political interests and culture for many years. This has never provided the city with a peaceful past as its history has been marked by fire and sword, as well as by pen, paintbrush, chisel, carpenter’s axe and stonemason’s trowel.

During World War II Prague suffered considerably less damage than most cities in Europe and legend alludes to the idea that Hitler loved Prague and prevented the city from being destroyed for this reason. As a result Prague is home to a variety of superior architecture, which includes excellent examples of Art Nouveau and Baroque, Renaissance, Cubist, Gothic and Neo-Classical.

The Roman Emperor and Bohemian King Charles IV of the Luxembourg dynasty transformed Prague into a palatial European city and centre for arts, trade and education. At one time in its history it was the capital of the Holy Roman Empire ruled by two Roman Emperors. During 1618 the Thirty Years’ War started in Prague and one of the consequences was the ‘Post-White Mountain Emigration’, a wave of religious emigration seen to be a result of this disaster in Czech history; this brought with it the Czech offshoot of the dynamic Baroque style as well as musical Classicism to Europe.

The composer Wolfgang Amadeus Mozart formed a special relationship with Prague and presented the world premiere of his opera, Don Giovanni in the Prague’s Estates Theatre during 1787.

Prague is home to many nationalities. The co-existence of Czechs, Germans and Jews was furthered by the onset of the Renaissance through the community of Italian artists and craftsmen. In the first half of the 20th century Prague became an important emigration centre for Russians, Ukrainians and Belarusians. The Czech state, formerly known as Bohemia, was formed in the 9th Century and has been ruled by a number of different monarchies until it became an independent state in 1918, which resulted in the birth of a country known as the Republic of Czechoslovakia.

At the end of World War II, many Czech people were left homeless and starving and when the Russian leader, Stalin advocated a system of equal wealth, it seemed logical for them to embrace communism. During 1948 the Communist Party of Czechoslovakia took complete control and began nationalising all economic sectors. The freedom of press and civil liberties were suppressed and censorship and propaganda implemented.

The state took ownership of the economy and private enterprise

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Old Town Square (Staromestske namesti) - Prague’s centre for cafes, street entertainment and leisurely fun. Very beautiful historical buildings surround the square. Part of the square is the Astronomical Clock. Watch Christ and his Twelve Apostles when the clock signals the hour.

was not permitted. The prosperous Czechoslovakia of that time suffered a 20 year set back due to communism and by the early 1960s the economy had become dormant. It became apparent that the Soviet economic policies were ineffective and not as Stalin had promised. The first serious attempt to end communism was in 1968, but it was only during 1989 when I was 12 years old, that communism was finally uprooted in what became known as the ‘Velvet Revolution’. This fundamental change in power was given this name as it was achieved without any violence.

Many people have asked what it was like to grow up behind the Iron Curtain and most expect to hear tales of secret police, bread queues and other nasty manifestations. They are invariably disappointed when I explain that the reality was quite different; communist Czechoslovakia was in fact, rather a fun place to live. I had a loving family, food and safe place to live but then again, a child is blissfully unaware of any political situation. One of the few positives of the communist system at that time was that it provided everyone with employment, sound education and free medical care. Violent crime was virtually non-existent.

The Czech Republic has now been in a growth phase for longer than 20 years and is now one of the more stable economies in Europe. Prague is a bustling cosmopolitan city on a par in terms of quality with Paris or London. Most people are unaware of the use of the various Eastern European languages and assume that the spoken language in Eastern Europe is Russian, which is of course a misconception. The language spoken in Czech Republic is called Czech and is derived from the West Slavic languages.

Yes! Prague is indeed a city beyond compare - It’s a city with soul.

Prague Castle (Prasžký hrad) - The complex is a magnificent experience throughout, with St. Vitus cathedral and several other museums worthy of exploration. Also visit Kafka’s house in Golden Lane.

Charles Bridge (Karluv most) - The bridge has the best night view of Prague Castle. It is one of the most popular sights and can be very romantic.

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The King of Diamonds ‘We design what we consider to be the world’s finest jewellery.

From the way we bring diamonds together through the skillful cutting of the stone to the making of each special piece, it is a great art form.’ Laurence Graff OBE

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Laurence Graff holds a selection of the world's most valuable gemstones

Graff Diamonds is synonymous with the most fabulous jewels in the world. Graff jewellery is exceptional; the quality, style and workmanship are the best in the world. Laurence Graff OBE, Founder and Chairman of the company, is often described as ‘The King of Diamonds’ and has a passion for diamonds that began from an early age.

He said: ‘I have always been fascinated by diamonds. When I first started working in the industry I remember looking at them, studying them closely to understand their purity and the way they had been cut and crafted. Without realising it, I was becoming a self-taught gemmologist and I truly believe that this is what I have been born to do. It was an inherent feeling which has turned into a lifelong passion’.

From the founding of the company in 1960 to the present day, Graff continues to operate as a family business.

Mr Graff’s son François Graff is the company’s Chief Executive Officer, his brother Raymond directs Graff’s jewellery production and nephew Elliott is responsible for operational logistics, merchandising and design.

With over 45 Graff stores worldwide and corporate offices in London, New York, Hong Kong, Japan and Geneva, Graff is one of the world’s pre-eminent jewellery brands. In the last three years, Graff has opened stores in Shanghai, San Francisco, Gstaad, Dubai, Tokyo’s prestigious Isetan shopping district, Hangzhou, Macau, Seoul, Abu Dhabi and at Delaire Graff Estate in South Africa.

The year 2012 saw the opening of a newly renovated and extended flagship store on London’s prestigious New Bond Street. This year, Graff opened a new store within Harrods’ Fine Jewellery Room, marking its third London location. Throughout 2014, new stores are expected to open in Europe, the Middle East and across Asia, furthering Graff’s global expansion. The South African Diamond Corporation (SAFDICO), a diamond wholesaler and manufacturer based in Johannesburg, is also part of the Graff group of companies. Today SAFDICO is one of the main diamond producers in South Africa with one of the largest polishing and cutting factories based in Johannesburg.

Rough diamonds are cut and polished in South Africa, Antwerp, New York and in Botswana at SAFDICO’s new generation diamond cutting facility which is situated in the Diamond Technology Park - a campus instigated and developed by SAFDICO. The Park is designed to be the central hub for the burgeoning diamond cutting industry in Botswana and employs 500 people producing diamonds using state of the art technology and skill. Thousands of carats of diamonds are cut and polished from these diamonds each month and only the best are selected for Graff jewellery.

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Graff jewels are made by hand in the Graff London workshop; from the creation of the design to the immaculate setting, each piece requires many hours of work, some several hundred hours. The highly skilled craftsmen, many of whom are trained at Graff, have perfected the extraordinarily fine settings of exceptional quality that are synonymous with Graff, known for the most fabulous jewels in the world.

Over the years Graff has handled the world's most fabulous and treasured gemstones. It has been said that more important gem quality diamonds have passed through Laurence Graff’s hands than any other Diamantaire. Some of the stones are centuries old and steeped in myth and history while others have just been discovered and brought to life in Graff's own workshops. Graff takes great pride in knowing that these gems of everlasting beauty will pass from generation to generation, building their own legends on the way.

The Lesotho Promise rough

In 2008 Graff acquired the 15th largest diamond ever discovered the 603ct Lesotho Promise. This rough diamond was painstakingly cut and polished by an expert team, yielding 26 magnificent flawless gems ranging from 3.14 to 76.41 carats. These diamonds were then set by Graff’s team of Master Craftsmen into one stunning necklace, one of the most valuable and unique in the world. The same mine, the Letšeng Diamond mine in Lesotho, hailed two further record stones, the Letšeng Legacy, weighing a remarkable 493cts and listed as the world’s 18th largest rough ever to be recovered, and most recently the 478ct rough Light of Letšeng, both of which were acquired by Graff. The 20th largest rough diamond in the world, the Light of Letšeng yielded 10 diamonds, including the Graff Constellation; the world’s largest round brilliant D Internally Flawless diamond at 102.79cts, and a 51.20ct D Flawless heartshape diamond. At the same time as the unveiling of the Graff Constellation in 2010, Graff also presented the Delaire Sunrise, the largest Fancy Vivid Yellow square emerald cut diamond in the world, at 118.08cts. >

The Letseng Star rough

‘Lesotho Promise’ necklace

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Yielded from an exceptionally rare octahedral shaped rough diamond, the Delaire Sunrise is named after the Delaire Graff Estate in Stellenbosch, South Africa. Perhaps one of the rarest and most historic diamonds of all time, the Wittelsbach-Graff was repolished

by Graff, transforming it into the largest Fancy Natural Deep Blue Internally Flawless diamond in the world, at a magnificent 31.06cts.

In 2011 Laurence Graff unveiled the Graff Pink, a stunning 23.88ct Natural Fancy Vivid Pink Internally Flawless type IIa diamond.

The diamond had originally displayed 25 inclusions, which with incredible care and particular attention to the diamond’s weight and cut, were removed through polishing, yielding a diamond of higher colour and clarity and sacrificing less than 1ct in weight.

Says Laurence Graff, ‘the Graff Pink is without a doubt the finest pink diamond I have ever seen.’ In 2012 the Graff Sweethearts were unveiled, two perfectly matching D Flawless heart shape diamonds exceeding 50cts each, cut from two rough diamonds.

The latest diamond to join Graff’s extraordinary list of impressive jewels is the 550ct Letšeng Star, sourced from the famous Letšeng Mine where many of Graff’s notable diamonds have been discovered.

Stunning in colour, cut and clarity, these breathtaking stones will forever remain as important stones in Graff’s illustrious history.

As a mark of authenticity, Graff diamonds are laser inscribed on the girdle with the Graff logo and unique GIA (Gemological Institute of America) identification number. The inscription is visible only under 10-power magnification and is not detrimental to the clarity grade of the diamond. Le The Graff Hallucination

The Delaire Sunrise rough

The Delaire Sunrise

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GLAMOROUS ST. MORITZ

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By Steve Swanepoel

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ew places are as astonishingly beautiful as St. Moritz under a thick white veil of snow amidst its magnificent alpine setting in the Engadine valley in Switzerland.

The world’s oldest winter resort dates back to 1864 and has been the ski destination of choice for the jet-set for centuries. Deemed to be the most exclusive ski resort in the world, it attracts royalty, millionaires and movie stars, such as Ivana Trump, George Clooney, Liz Hurley, Flavio Briatore and Indian steel baron Lakshmi Mittal, amongst many others.

Property is exceedingly expensive, that is if one is fortunate enough to find any for sale. When Lakshmi Mittal, the Chief Executive Officer of ArcelorMittal, the world’s largest steelmaking company, built what was believed the most expensive villa in St. Moritz at that time, 24-hour security was appointed to protect the gold-plated fittings and radiators being installed in the house.

St. Moritz with its inherent pioneering spirit is generally accepted as the global birthplace of winter sport. A superb infrastructure, perfect weather conditions for winter sport combined with approximately 300 days of sunshine per year make for a world-class winter sport and holiday destination.

Besides skiing and snowboarding, St. Moritz is also home to the oldest bobsleigh run in the world and it is also the official home ground for snow polo. Bob sleighing began in 1897 and the famous ‘St Moritz - Celerina’ Olympic bob run is the only natural ice bob run in the world. Other bob runs have to be artificially frozen due to due to less favourable weather conditions.

Those seeking an adrenaline charge can experience a bob run on the 1700 metre course. A ‘taxi style’ fleet of four-man modified racing bobs piloted by experienced bob pilots complete the course in less than 75 seconds. Speed ‘junkies’ and wide-eyed novice taxi guests, strapped in the second and third seating positions of the bobsleigh, may however find the trip to feel like an endless journey as they experience G-forces of up to 4.5G at speeds of up to 135km/h.

‘White Turf’ International Horse Racing events have taken place on the frozen Lake of St. Moritz Since 1907. I addition to harness and flat races, White Turf racing events also feature ‘Skijoring’, a race where riderless horses pull skiers behind them at neck breaking speeds. ‘Skeleton racing’ is a fast winter sliding sport, in which an individual lies face down on a small sled, was also invented in St. Moritz in the 1800s and is practised on a bob run track.

The main skiing areas are Corviglia, Corvatsch, Diavolezza and Zuoz with a total of 88 different pistes (ski runs) over a combined distance of about 350 kilometres. Adding to its popularity is the fact that St. Moritz is ideal for intermediate skiers because the majority of runs are considered to be of medium level difficulty.

‘Pistes’ are easily accessible via the modern and efficient ski lift system, with over 50 lifts, which can transport up to 65 000 passengers per hour to the various ski slopes. The lifts start operating at 07:45 am for skiers wanting to benefit from the freshly prepared white carpet ‘pistes’. Those wanting something less nerve racking can go for walks on any of the 105 km of lovely hiking trails throughout the valleys.

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In addition to downhill skiing, there are approximately 200 km of cross-country ski trails in the area, including a 42 km Marathon track, which is located between Maloja to S-chanf.

Another popular sport is ‘Snowkiting’, which is a variation of traditional windsurfing, practised on a frozen lake.

Despite its reputation for catering to the most discerning guests, St. Moritz has not lost its typical Alpine resort charm. The ambience of the historical village with traditional horse-drawn sleighs adds to a near perfect fairy-tale atmosphere.

Shopping is as much of a sport as any other in St. Moritz, with the liberal presence of the world’s most luxury brands in the town centre. The retail outlets on ‘Via Serlas’, Europe’s highest shopping street look like classic Swiss chalets complete with fireplaces and are well stocked with brand names such as Gucci, Louis Vuitton, Chanel, Bulgari, Versace and Prada.

With no less than five superb 5-star hotels, as well as an extended choice of other luxury accommodation establishments, one is simply spoilt for choice. However, be mindful that this is not a ‘limited budget style’ destination.

The ‘Klum Hotel St. Moritz’ dates to 1856 and was, in fact, the first luxury hotel in the Alps. Badrutts Palace Hotel has been trading since 1896 and is the perfect blend of Swiss tradition and luxury. Recently celebrating its centenary, the Carlton Hotel is an outstanding boutique hotel and is well within walking distance of the village centre.

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No vacation is complete without excellent food and with over 80 eateries in St. Moritz, it is an absolute paradise for food lovers.

Many of these are highly acclaimed, with Michelin star ratings and numerous other awards and are as pricey as the finest restaurants in the world, so don’t be surprised on presentation of the bill.

Fine food isn’t just relegated to the three villages, St. Moritz Dorf, St. Moritz Bad and Celerina’, that make up the greater St. Moritz, as there are numerous restaurants high up on the slopes. Situated on the Chastelets slope, ‘Restorant Alpetta’, a traditional and cosy restaurant with a ‘hut-like’ appearance restaurant, serves specialties of grilled meats, fondue and boasts an impressive wine list.

At 8,000 feet above sea level, the Panorama Restaurant in Muottas Muragl provides a magnificent 360-degree view and specialises in fish, red meat, soups and pastas. Here, skiers can lunch on the terrace while taking in the panoramic scenery or enjoy the romantic atmosphere at dinner. At the highest ski terminal on Corviglia at 8,156 feet above sea level is Mathis Food Affairs. With no less than seven gastronomic eateries, including the Caviar House & Prunier Seafood Bar, this family-owned business caters for skiers with discerning tastes. One of the most stylish and a must-visit restaurant is ‘La Marmite’. In a relaxed, but ‘see and be seen’ dining room, chef Reto Mathis personally prepares black truffles atop flammkuchen for his ravenous Sable, Lynx, Chinchilla, Mink, Fox and raccoon fur clothed clientele. His magnificent dishes of duck liver, red deer, and ahi tuna are only rivalled by the view.

As famous as St. Moritz is for numerous sporting activities, shopping and restaurants, it is as famed for its lively champagnesoakednightlife. It is littered with a myriad of upmarket night clubs, classic and trendy ‘lounge style’ bars, all with an international appeal. One can safely enjoy ‘club-hopping’, as most of the ‘in’ spots are within walking distance of each other.

Arguably the most famous nightclub in Switzerland is the ‘Kings Club’ in Badrutts Palace Hotel, which attracts nobles, millionaires, movie stars and celebrities alike. This is the place to see and be seen. A round of drinks amongst a couple of friends costing between $1 500 to $2 000 is deemed as rather insignificant and hence goes unnoticed. During the winter season, there is no such thing as closing hours at the Kings Club. Party hungry celebrities dance and celebrate the St. Moritz lifestyle to the pulsating music by world famous DJ’s until the sun rises over the glorious Alpine landscape, before heading up the slopes to enjoy breakfast at one of the numerous restaurants on the upper Engadine.

Another equally legendary club is ‘Dracula’s Ghost Riders Club’ founded by Gunter Sachs of Playboy fame. It was originally an exclusive club for the enigmatic ‘ghost rider’ bobsledders. However, should you somehow manage to make it past the tuxedo-donned bouncers you will find yourself surrounded by fine-looking ladies and notable gentlemen.

The annual ‘St. Moritz Music Summit’, which brings together some of the best international DJ’s and lovers of the electronic dance music scene in the Engadine for a 3 day ‘Ibiza-style’ music festival is growing in popularity and is well attended.

The region owes much of its appeal to the ‘glitz and glam’ of St. Moritz, but the star attraction is nature itself. The Engadine with its inspirational alpine slopes and valleys offers residents and visitors alike boundless opportunities to enjoy this magical natural setting.

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THE LEGEND OF THE CHINESE ZODIAC YEAR OF THE PIG Founded in 1755, Vacheron Constantin is the world’s oldest watch Manufacture in continuous production for over 260 years, faithfully perpetuating a proud heritage of watchmaking excellence and stylistic sophistication through generations of master craftsmen.

At the pinnacle of high horology and understated elegance, the Maison creates timepieces with unique technical and aesthetic signatures, and an extremely high level of finishing touches.

Vacheron Constantin brings to life unparalleled heritage and a spirit of innovation through its key collections: Patrimony, Traditionnelle, Métiers d’Art, Overseas, Fiftysix and Historiques. It also offers its discerning clientele the rare opportunity to acquire unique and bespoke timepieces by means of its ‘Les Cabinotiers’ department.

Vacheron Constantin is pursuing its dialogue with collectors and passionate devotees of Haute Horlogerie by enriching its Métiers d’Art The legend of the Chinese zodiac with the sign of the pig.

Honest, generous, epicurean, it will take over from the dog at the Chinese New Year on February 5th 2019.

These two new creations, realised in twelve models each, combine the technical excellence of Caliber 2460 G4 with the beauty of artistic crafts.

PAPER-CUTTING, AT THE CROSSROADS BETWEEN EASTERN AND WESTERN CULTURES China, a nation with which Vacheron Constantin has been cultivating special ties since 1845, first introduce the paper-cutting technique famous Scherenschnitt paper-cutting. This artistic approach, known as Jianzhi, a popular art echoed in Swiss culture through its highlighted in the Métiers d’Art The legend of the Chinese zodiac, has been given a fresh interpretation thanks to the expertise of the master engravers and enamellers.

ALLIED ARTISTIC CRAFTS The foliage motif appearing on the dial and based on classic Chinese iconography is etched directly in the metal. The pattern remains semi-embedded and stands out from its gold base by a subtle stage-setting of variously accentuating reliefs creating a depth effect, which makes the vegetation appear to be floating over the dial.

Then comes the stage of Grand Feu enamelling, an ancestral technique that remains the preserve of a very few particularly skilled artisans. By applying the enamel in successive layers, the enamel specialist enhances the intensity of the blue or bronze-toned dial.

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Achieving the necessary mastery of colour and of reactions to firing at temperatures between 800 and 900 degrees Celsius calls for an expertise that can only be acquired over long years of experience.

The pig, made of platinum or pink gold, is hand engraved and delicately applied to the dial centre.

A MOVEMENT THAT LEAVES PLENTY OF SPACE FOR ARTISTIC EXPRESSION Calibre 2460 G4 makes it possible to create a distinctive and ideal stage-setting for the decorative arts, by giving the central dial motif a starring role. The hands-free time display is chieved through four apertures showing the hours, minutes, days and dates. These indications – the first two of the dragging variety and the last two of the jumping type – proudly embody the longstanding savoirfaire of the Maison in designing and developing original displays.

Clearly visible through the sapphire crystal back of the platinum or pink gold case, the 22-carat oscillating weight is adorned with a recurrent Maltese cross-inspired pattern testifying to finishes performed in keeping with the finest watchmaking traditions.

All movement components are indeed finely finished in accordance with the criteria of the Hallmark of Geneva, a quality label of which Vacheron Constantin is the most faithful representative.

TECHNICAL DATA REFERENCE 86073/000P-B428 86073/000R-B429

Hallmark of Geneva certified timepieces Pieces only available through the Vacheron Constantin Boutiques CALIBRE 2460 G4 Developed and manufactured by Vacheron Constantin Mechanical, self-winding 31 mm (11¼’’’) diameter, 6.05 mm thick Approximately 40 hours of power reserve 4 Hz (28,800 vibrations/hour) 237 components 27 jewels INDICATIONS Hours, minutes, day of the week and date in apertures CASE Platinum/18K 5N pink gold 40 mm diameter, 12.74 mm thick Transparent sapphire crystal caseback Water-resistance tested at a pressure of 3bar (approx.30 meters) DIAL 18K gold, hand engraved, Grand Feu enamelled Hand-engraved platinum/18K 5N pink gold pig STRAP Dark blue/brown Mississippiensis alligator leather with alligator leather inner shell, hand-stitched, saddle-finish, large square scales CLASP Platinum/18K 5N pink gold folding clasp Polished half Maltese cross-shaped ACCESSORIES Delivered with a corrector pen

1/3 COINTREAU 2/3 SPARKLING WATER 1/2 FRESHLY SQUEEZED LIME

DRINK RESPONSIBLY

A GIFT FOR THOSE WHO WALK WITH YOU

Not For Sale To Persons Under The Age Of 18. Drink Responsibly.

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Pearl Diving Mermaids

By Steve Swanepoel

For centuries, man has been fascinated by romantic tales and the mythology of mermaids, the mythical creatures with the upper body of a woman and the tail of a fish.

Even famous explorers have recorded sightings of mermaids. One of these was the English explorer, Henry Hudson after whom the Hudson River and Hudson Bay have been named, On 15 June 1608, whilst in search of a passage from England to Asia, Hudson entered the following in the logbook on his ship, The Hopewell, near the Novaya Zemlya Islands off the north coast of Russia.

‘This morning one of our companie looking over boord saw a mermaid, and called up some of the companie to see her, one come up, and by that time shee was close to the ship’s side, looking earnestly upon the men: a little after, a Sea came and overturned her: From Navill upwards, her back and breasts were like a woman’s her body as big as one of us; her skin very white; and long haire hanging downe they saw her tayle, which was like the tayle of a porposse and speckled like a Macrl.’

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However, in Japanese culture mermaids are no myth. The captivating history of the legendary Japanese female pearl divers called Ama or Amasan ( in Japanese) dates back to over 2000 years. The word Ama derives from ‘Amaterasu’, the Japanese Sun Goddess, but directly translated it simply means ‘woman of the sea’. Freediving is practised by the Ama to depths exceeding 30 metres, using a single breath to search for a variety of shellfish and edible seaweed.

Accounts of Ama pearl divers have been recorded as early as 750 AD in the oldest Japanese anthology of poetry, the Man’yoshu.

Diving, while wearing nothing but a fundoshi (loincloth), made it easier for them to glide freely through the water without the hindrance of clothing. They consistently exposed themselves to the dangers of the sea, potential damage to their sight and even drowning. The ultimate and extremely rare reward for the Ama diver would be to find a pearl in an oyster.

With specially developed breathing techniques, they are able to hold their breath for up to three minutes at a time and can dive for periods of up to six hours daily. Upon surfacing, they would make a unique and distinct whistling sound known as ‘Isobue’ as part of their breathing technique.

It was only in the ‘Meiji era’ that goggles were initially used by the Ama, as they were suffering from blindness as a result of being constantly exposed to seawater and in 1964 wetsuits were introduced.

However, the wetsuits could be dangerous, as the rubbery material could become jammed in the rough rock surfaces when divers would slide their arms into narrow crevices and underneath rocks searching for shellfish. Should a diver struggle to free herself while holding her breath, she would quickly deplete the oxygen in her lungs.

The reason why the majority of these freedivers were women, is because women have a higher percentage of subcutaneous fat than men. This provides better insulation from the cold water. Another reason was that the self-supporting nature of the profession liberated these women. Before the stirrings of feminism in the 20th century, women were generally perceived as the weaker sex. However, diving was the one occupation in which they could outperform men and this allowed them to live more independently.

To understand the vital role performed by these freedivers, it has to be understood that prior to the 20th century, the only means of obtaining pearls was to gather large numbers of oysters or mussels from either the ocean floor, lakes or rivers. The bivalves had to be brought to the surface and the tissue searched for an oyster. At best three to four quality pearls would be discovered from every ton of oysters harvested.

Sadly the legendary Ama with their tradition of near-naked freediving have now become nearly non-existent due to modern diving methods and the development of cultured pearls in the early 1900s

by Japanese entrepreneur, Kokichi Mikimoto.

Mikimoto, the man accredited for the development of cultured pearls, employed the traditional Ama divers to collect oysters from the seabed of his oyster farm near Toba, a city located in Mie Prefecture, Japan, so that a pearl-producing nucleus could be inserted in the oyster tissue. This practice extended the important role of the Ama to continue supplying pearls to the ever-demanding consumer market.

Strangely enough, it is Mikimoto’s cultured pearl business that has

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created the strong association between the Ama divers and pearls in the western world. Mikimoto’s Ama divers were soon forced to replace their traditional loincloths, which originally romanticised the Ama divers, with white cotton suits. Although public nudity was largely acceptable in the Japanese Ama diving communities until the late 20th century, this became necessary, as foreign tourists were taken aback to see the practically naked women diving.

The Ama used a wooden barrel, which served as both a flotation device to rest and catch their breath between dives, and as a basket to hold their harvest. A rope would be attached to the waist of the divers to pull them up to the surface. In many cases the original Ama would simply jump off rocks into the water, then clamber back with whatever they had gathered from the ocean.

The single role of the Mikimoto’s Ama was to collect oysters from the seabed so that pearl-producing nuclei could be inserted in the oyster tissue. Once this process was completed, the Ama would then return the oysters to the seabed for harvesting several years later, after pearls had formed inside the shells.

To understand this process; a natural pearl begins forming inside an oyster’s shell when an intruder, such as a grain of sand slips into the oyster and irritates or injures the oyster, very much like a grain of sand irritating a human eye. In response to the irritation, the oyster will quickly begin covering the uninvited visitor with layers of nacre. Layer upon layer of nacre, also known as mother-of-pearl, coat the grain of sand until a shimmering gem is eventually formed.

Cultured pearls are formed in a similar manner. The only difference is that instead of an accidental intruder lodging itself in the oyster flesh,

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a cultured pearl farmer artificially embeds a grain of sand (nucleus) into the mollusc.

Today’s cultured pearl industry produces billions of pearls annually and some of the traditional female Ama divers still dive, but primarily for the tourist industry. Perhaps most surprisingly, however, is the age to which these women are able to keep diving, some even surpassing 90 years of age. Most of them had started practising this art during their teenage years.

However, with the lack of young women to succeed their elders and as previously mentioned, the modernisation of Japan’s fisheries, this ancient practice has dwindled to near extinction. Numbers have dropped significantly. During 1956 there were nearly 18 000 Ama in Japan but as of 2010 only about 2000 remained.

As technology progressed, the Ama communities were faced with decisions, whether to adopt new tools and equipment or retain their traditions? One of the most important parts of the decisionmaking was the consideration of sustainability. New fishing methods could easily enable greater hauls and reduce work, but at the same time, increase the risk of over fishing and damage the delicate ecosystems that supported life in these coastal towns. Guidelines were introduced to prevent this. On Hegura Island in Wajima city rules state that abalone measuring less than 10 centimetres must be returned to the sea. The punishment is two days without work if they are smaller. Despite these efforts, the numbers of abalone and other shellfish have continued to decline, in part due to over fishing, but also due to the rising sea temperature, which has affected the growth of the seaweed that feeds them.

This culture of Ama divers is not only unique to Japan. Other impressive groups of free divers are the Haenyo of Korea, the sponge divers of Greece and the pearl divers of the Tuamotu Archipelago in French Polynesia.

Although the scantily-clad romanticised image of this noble profession is now a thing of the past, the rich history and culture of these amazing women is to be cherished. The tourism industry at Mikimoto Pearl assists in preserving their heritage and the ageold fishing traditions held within these small coastal villages stand in witness and will hopefully ensure that their heritage will not be completely forgotten and remain a part of Japan’s enduring folklore and legend.

The Ama became the pin-up girls of their time and their existence was widely celebrated from the erotic woodblock prints by the famed 18th-century Japanese artist, Utamaro Kitagawa, to voyeuristic documentaries and the erotic B-movies of the 1950s and 1960s. The sassy and athletic Ama also captured the imagination of Hollywood. In the 1967 blockbuster movie, ‘You Only Live Twice’, starring Sean Connery as the fictional MI6 agent James Bond, married Ama diver Kissy Suzuki, while the 1954 novel Shiosai, a classic Japanese romantic love story, was filmed no fewer than five times since it was first published.

Although the magical era of the Ama, as seductive sea nymphs is over, their legacy lives on...

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Glamping or simply, luxurious camping ...

By Juliette Corrin

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lamping….simply glamorous camping. The Oxford Dictionary defines it as ‘a form of camping involving accommodation and facilities more luxurious than those associated with traditional camping.’ Glamping is gaining a reputation as the answer for those 21st-century travellers seeking a luxury experience with the escapism and adventure recreation usually associated with camping and where the miracles of nature are side by side with the comforts of modern luxury. It is ideal for those who wish to be out in the wild without the hard work of carrying and setting up tents, sleeping on the hard ground or searching for bathroom facilities in the dark.

Glamping becomes increasingly lavish and includes flat-screen TVs and internet facilities if desired, pillow-top mattresses, jetted tubs and even private butlers.

In 1908, Robert SS Baden Powell published his renowned book, Scouting for Boys, where a night under canvas was all about self-reliance and teamwork. This book was written to galvanise a ‘wasted generation’ of Edwardian youngsters and sold more copies than any other, excluding the Bible, Koran and Quotations from Chairman Mao Tse-tung! The thought occurs as to what he might think of glamping. At first, glamping was a practical adaptation – a tent or yurt in a field was adequate, but this has developed into a much greater offering with five-star luxuries, often in the grounds of

castles or gorgeous surroundings. Millennials and Generation Xs are fast catching on to this trend, attracted by the idea that it’s a time to relax, escape into nature and clear their minds. Glamping provides this escape away from the hustle and bustle, whether it’s that moment in a tent, treehouse or trailer. It is more comfortable, exciting and trendy with a variety of accommodation available, from cabins in the woods to riverside tents and chalets in the mountains, all of which offer an upscale approach to sleeping under the stars.

Experiential travel is an authentic to connect with nature by leaving the beaten path, avoiding typical tourist activities and entering into an immersive cultural environment. Leaving their comfort zones, travellers can change their perspective and re-examine how they live in their world. Those who are fans of glamping firmly believe the experience enriches their lives and leaves an impression lasting longer than the time they actually spent away.

Before further exploring the adventures of glamping, it is interesting to note that the concept of luxury camping has been around for centuries. In 1520, King Henry VIII and Francis I of France met for the historic summit known as the Field of the Cloth of Gold. They were surrounded by 2,800 tents. Some of these were palatial, set with lavish feasts and flowing fountains of wine. At the same time,

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during the Ottoman Empire, the sultans were known for their extravagant tents, embellished and decorated by an army of artists.

In the 1900s, when the trend for affluent American and European travellers to explore and go on safaris in Africa started, the demand for luxurious safari camps appeared so that their visitors did not miss the creature comforts of home. Today the variety of glamping experiences on offer internationally is breath-taking! Suited to any budget, this is an excellent alternative to ‘roughing it’. The variety of accommodation available is astonishing and continues to increase.

From safari tents of a size larger than a hotel room to yurts, cabins or cottages, tepees, treehouses, cubes and pods, the expansive airstreams–a distinctly shaped spacious travel trailer–and trailers, geodomes, wagons and shepherds’ huts, the choice is enormous.

Furthermore, it seems that in the world of glamping the more unusual the accommodation, the better. Wilder lodging choices are appearing with caves, underwater pods, ice hotels and reconfigured planes and trains on offer.

The modern traveller pursues new destinations that do not fit into the one size suits all holiday, but seek to experience being immersed in local culture and living in nature, and glamping meets these requirements in some of the most stunning locals around the world. Glamping destinations are continuously coming up with

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increasingly unique and luxurious ideas to meet these demands in a variety of forms and places with a high standard of personalised services and extreme luxury while allowing for an unfiltered connection with nature and wilderness adventures. Here, Le Kap examines a few of these special places on offer.

One of the most peaceful and private sanctuaries is offered at 4 Rivers Floating Lodge located at the southern end of the Tatai River, Koh Kong, Cambodia in the midst of the mangroves and lush forests. Appearing with an almost dream-like quality as you round the bend in the river, the 12 floating white tents measuring 45sq m offer superb luxury combined with practicality but avoid being opulent and seem out of place in the rainforest and river setting. In this fragile environment, the owners have been careful to emphasise an eco-friendly creation minimising the use of wood and rather using solar power and support community projects.

For guests, there is easy access for trips to the Tatai Waterfall, Koh Kong Island and one of the world’s largest rainforests, as well as Cardamom Mountain treks.

On the central pontoon, there is a library, restaurant and a reception area with the luxury tents and riverfront decks on each side. Welltrained staff members are available to meet guests’ requirements >

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in these unspoilt surroundings, striving for a personal and friendly feel, with top-of-the-line luxury but in harmony with nature and the ever-changing kaleidoscope of colours and images. The restaurant offers an adventure into Khmer cuisine using, of course, local ingredients from nearby markets, as well as Western-style dishes. This is a real break away from the hustle and bustle of city life as there is no WiFi and technology has no place here. Tents are spacious with all amenities and include a lounge area with a chaise longue and its own private river-deck with loungers, parasol and a table and chairs, plus a ladder if you would prefer to ease yourself gently into the water rather than plunging into its cool depths.

The chic &Beyond Ngala Tented Camp in South Africa is located next to the Timbavati River and provides the ultimate elegant African escape. Situated in the heart of the 14,700-hectare Ngala Private Game Reserve, it is just three kilometres from the Orpen Gate of the Kruger National Park. The carefully designed camp has a Retro feel with a 1960s ambience while merging traditional and contemporary inspiration in a stunning natural setting in an intimate and exclusive environment.

The delicious Pan-African cuisine will satisfy any gourmet whether it’s dining by the pool or enjoying a banquet in the bush among the islands or reeds in the river, surrounded by flickering lanterns under the night skies. The nine sophisticated and airy tented suites in neutral tones combine classic and modern style to create the lightest ecological footprint and are surrounded by a canopy of indigenous marula trees. These feature elegant décor in neutral colours built around nature in natural materials, screens and ceiling fans to create a breeze, outdoor showers, oversize bathtubs and private porches. In the bar, woven chandeliers imitate weaver nests, and an anciently carved spice rack is on view on the bar top.

Extensive viewing decks provide a frontline view of the game passing along the river banks and the rim flow pool mimics the contours of the river bed for a refreshing dip in the heat of the day. The plush armchairs beguile you to spend an afternoon gazing across the river. Games drives are available– minus the usual crowds, either at night or in the daytime, as well as bush walks, with expert Shangaan trackers and rangers finding exceptional sightings for your enjoyment. There is also a luxury spa with a dedicated massage sala on offer. Each tent has yoga mats and a ‘gym in a basket’, and the photographic opportunities will take your breath away. Daily flights to the private airstrip make travel to Ngala easy and convenient.

Kakslauttanen Arctic Resort in Finland is enchanting. An otherworldly destination is somewhat different from the classic summer glamping resort because this one comes alive in winter when the Aurora Borealis shimmers in the Finnish night sky.

Just 250 km north of the Arctic Circle on the edge of the Arctic wilderness, it is close to the Urho Kekkonen National Park, one of the largest national parks in the country and one of the >

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cleanest environments, but what distinguishes it is that the accommodation on offer has been built facing the Northern Lights. Nowhere else can one witness this type of beauty more clearly than at the north edges of the Scandinavian countries and from here the view is just priceless.The resort offers year-round experiences, but it is the glass igloos that made Kakslauttanen Arctic Resort famous.

The innovative sleeping options have been carefully created by blending luxury with optimal viewing experiences. The transparent glass igloos made from thermal glass sleep two people, with private bathrooms, and Kelo-glass igloos combine the comfort of cosy log chalets with the glass igloos - for the perfect experience. These sleep up to six people and feature a private sauna, fireplace, kitchenette and bedroom with a glass roof. The ideal retreat for the most adventurous traveller, the snow igloos are crafted out of snow each winter – even if the temperature dips to -40 degrees Centigrade outside, inside remains a consistent minus three to six and luxurious down sleeping bags keep you warm. There is a variety of accommodation available, as well as unique excursions with reindeer and Huskies to panning for gold, all in this beautifully clean environment.

The seasonal, Relais & Chateaux Calyoquot Wilderness Resort (BC, Canada) celebrates turn-of-the-century glamping luxury in a tented safari camp on Vancouver Island in the heart of the wilderness and is a model of eco-friendly indulgence.

This remote place provides authentic luxury and comfort with anticipatory attention to comfort, service and transformative fun. Situated on the edge of the Calyoquot Sound Biosphere Reserve, a designated UNESCO World Heritage Site, there are 25 white canvas prospector style tents for guests that promise every luxury with en-suite bathrooms, vintage lamps, antique silver and crystal providing a sublime ambience while complimenting modern comforts, as well as two tents for dining, games, activity and billiards. Visitors receive dedicated attention from the moment of their arrival by floatplane until they leave by horse-drawn wagon back to the dock. There is a log cookhouse, a stunning glass waterfront lounge and two cosy outdoor lounges with overstuffed couches and chairs around a massive double-sided dry-stack fireplace. To add to the experience, the Healing Grounds Spa offers wellness and spa treatments in tranquil, pristine settings.

The cuisine on offer is rooted in tradition and local ingredients using a traditional slow oven and period-inspired gastroadventures to complement the menu of contemporary coastal dishes. This resort works closely with the Ahousaht First Nation people in providing unprecedented, sustainable access to the Calyoquot Sound Reserve and the wildlife watching opportunities are exceptional. Black bear sightings can almost be guaranteed and whale watching tours get you up close and personal with these fantastic creatures. On offer is an impressive menu of outdoor activities such as kayaking, surfing, rock climbing, amongst many others.

Glamping under the stars of the Sahara Desert at Morocco’s Kam Kam Dunes is astonishing. Positioned in the heart of the Sahara Desert, it is about 500 km southwest of Marrakesh. The camp nestles between sky high sand dunes with 11 traditional Berber-style black tents and a secluded suite-style complex.

Artisans locally make the tents with exteriors crafted out of organic leather to ensure that the interiors are comfortable and safe from sandstorms.

Clean, white linen creates a modern aesthetic while the private bathrooms have a colourful and bright Moroccan design. Staff are recruited from the nomadic people in the surrounding Berber areas.

Dunes in all directions dominate the skyline without a glimpse of the nearest town, and it is only accessible with a 4X4 transfer. The journey takes 12 hours by land, crossing the Atlas Mountains. This means that at least two nights here are recommended and several transportation options are offered that combine visiting other sites on route adding a tour to your stay at Kam Kam Dunes. Despite this extreme remoteness, it has many comforts although WiFi is not accessible – time for a digital detox here.

The exclusive section of this resort, opened in October 2018, is hidden away on the other side of a sand dune. This consists of four large tents joined by Moroccan rugs, but these are double the size of the others and can accommodate four adults in each. Excursions on offer include unique trekking experiences on foot or by camel, and for the more adventurous there are options such as sand surfing, fat tyre biking and 4WD desert tours and visiting Khemliya for a Sudanese-style dance show, a Kasbah for lunch and a wild oasis.

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