Freshly Wrapped

Page 1

FRESHLY WRAPPED

Leo Field – Jan 2014

The changing potato crisp in Great Britain: A study of marketing, product and culture

PIONEERS “In potato crisps there is a greater requirement for innovation than almost any other [food] category I’m aware of” – Ed Jackson, Chief Executive Golden Wonder, (Crunch Time For Crisps 2004) Rinsed free of debris, peeled, inspected for blemishes, sliced into 1.3mm slivers, washed, dried, fried for 3 minutes, scanned and selected, seasoned, weighed and bagged. In less than twenty minutes, a raw Lady Rosetta potato becomes a packet of crisps in Leicester. 800 tonnes of potatoes a day, producing 720,000 packets of crisps per hour is the output of just one Walkers crisps factory (Henley 2010).    Together, British citizens get through over 6 billion packets of crisps a year; more than the rest of Europe put together (Henley 2010). Although this hasn’t always been the case, crisps are now an everyday part of our lives and over the years the market for them has become ever larger and ever more sophisticated. From the cheap and local, rough and ready, hand-cooked origins at the turn of the 20th century, to the booming mass-market creations of the 1960’s, to the celebrity endorsed, mega-branded, mass campaign-led snacks of the 1980’s, and up to the endless varieties and flavours, complex health and ecology propositions, and return to provenance that now reveals itself in 2013; the current crisps market is highly nuanced and responsive. Technological breakthroughs in food science, packaging and production, changing cultural tastes, lifestyle changes and national to global issues have led to a product history that tells a unique story about our culture.    Though the exact origin of crisps in the UK is highly contested, the earliest notable success is that of Frank Smith [Fig. 1] who, in 1920, started selling packets of crisps accompanied with a little blue twist of salt, from his North London garage. At this early stage, the crisps were sold fresh from the cooker in open greaseproof bags around the streets of London. While Smith’s Crisps continued steadily, Frank relocated to Australia where his business also boomed. Wartime rationing and hardship made space for two key manufacturers in the 1940’s. Potatoes not being rationed, the butcher Henry Walker started making crisps above his shop as an alternative source of income when meat became scarce – Walkers crisps was formed in 1948. Rivals, Golden Wonder sprung from similar circumstance as struggling Scottish baker, William Alexander, started producing crisps in 1949, named after the Golden Wonder variety of potatoes.    In these early years operations were relatively small-scale, individual companies generally serving surrounding areas. The products were varied and unregulated and inconsistency in taste, texture and freshness was commonplace due to the nature of production and packaging. It wasn’t until the early 1960’s that mass-market products began to emerge. Developments in production methods and packaging meant that regulated and consistent products could be made in larger batches at lower costs (Farm to Pharm 2009).    The culture of snacking is a relatively recent development in the UK; the activity aptly referred to by food marketers as ‘grazing’. New foods and new methods of growing, processing, distributing and cooking food have led to a transformation in eating habits over the past 40 years (Murcott 1997: 32). Essentially seen as a product of Americanisation, we are said to have now developed an ‘empire of snacks’ (Ashley et al. 2004: 141). 1


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