LEONARD, issue 103, April-May 2023

auction calendar

APR MAY JUNE

Modern Design

Monday 3 April, 6pm / MELBOURNE

Luxury

Tuesday 4 April, 6pm / MELBOURNE

Prints & Multiples

Wednesday 5 April, 6pm / MELBOURNE

The Hermann & Inge Thumm Collection

Monday 17 April, 6pm / MELBOURNE

Important Jewels

Monday 24 April, 6pm / SYDNEY

Specialist Rugs

Thursday 4 May, 2pm / MELBOURNE

Centum

Monday 15 May, 6pm / MELBOURNE

Luxury Icons

Wednesday 24 May, 6pm / MELBOURNE

Sidney Nolan: Myths, Legends, Landscapes

Tuesday 30 May, 6pm / MELBOURNE

The Collector's Auction

Tuesday 6 June, 2pm / SYDNEY

Fine Jewels & Timepieces

Monday 26 June, 6pm / MELBOURNE

Fine Art

Tuesday 27 June, 6pm / MELBOURNE

The Auction Salon

Furniture & Interiors

Objects & Collectables

Jewellery

Art

Every Thursday, from 10am / MELBOURNE

Tiffany

LEFT: Gordon Andrews Rondo chair $1,800-2,400

Modern Design Auction Monday 3 April, 6pm Melbourne

COVER: Deborah Symond O'Neil wearing her favourite pieces from the April Important Jewels auction at Leonard Joel, photographed by Oliver Begg

A magnificent pair of diamond and pearl interchangable drop earrings $550,000-750,000

& Co. diamond and tsavorite garnet brooch, circa 2005 $75,000-100,000

Jean Schlumberger for Tiffany & Co. sapphire, emerald and diamond 'Starfish' brooch, circa 2015 $75,000-100,000

brooch featured in our Important Jewels Auction, to stylish mid-century furniture in Modern Design, and Goyard's instantly recognisable chevron print in Luxury.

Within these pages, we chat to Deborah Symond O'Neil, founder of fashion retailer Mode Sportif about her favourite pieces from the Important Jewels auction, discover the history of the The Hermann & Inge Thumm Collection, take a look at six famous engagement rings through history, and more.

FROM THE CHAIRMAN

3 The Future of Large Antique Interiors

AUCTIONS

4 Important Jewels | The Legacy of Jean Schlumberger

8 In Conversation: with Deborah Symond O'Neil

10 The Hermann & Inge Thumm Collection

14 Modern Design | Exploring a Space Age Material

16 Luxury | A Little Bit About Goyard, 1792

17 Prints & Multiples | Brett Whiteley: A Unique Approach to Printmaking

18 Fine Jewels | Six Famous Engagement Rings Through History

20 Timepieces | Verg(e)ing on the Under-valued

22 Centum | The Art of the Prize

24 Sydney | Four Antiques to Easily Style in Your Modern Home

26 Brisbane | Luxury Jewellery Brands of Desire

IN FOCUS

27 Art Expert Series | How to Curate a Contemporary Art Collection with James Makin

28 5 Minutes with Kyle Walker

29 22nd Report | Zero Indian Rhinos Poached for the First Time in 45 Years

30 Valuations | Thinking of Selling?

34 A Last Look

JOIN US

36 Connect & Buy with Leonard Joel

37 Contact a Leonard Joel Specialist

THE FUTURE OF LARGE ANTIQUE INTERIORS

Finding a place for antiques in a contemporary world

The decline in prices for large pieces of period furniture is not a recent phenomenon. It is now into, probably, its third decade, thanks to the modernisation and miniaturisation of interior living. Add to that the demise of formal at-home dining and you have vast swathes of superbly crafted, largely Victorian and Edwardian furniture looking for homes, reinvention, or love.

I still remember valuing the most extraordinary “over-carved” Victorian sideboard in Melbourne perhaps 12 years ago for $3,000 - $5,000. The owner was ready to boot me out of his home, having paid more than $20,000 for the piece in the 1980s when it would seem every large period home in Melbourne wanted the full suite of mahogany settings. That for me is the first bookend to this ongoing observation that auctioneers around the world are grappling with, trying to re-position this period and these pieces in a way that might speak to new audiences. Sometimes, the solutions are confronting. For example, Selfridge’s London slicing up (literally) antique cupboards and mantle pieces, interspersing them with glass and mirrored sections and, I might say, creating rather striking backdrops for their displays of fashion.

This said, there are still good results to be had when it comes to special pieces of sizeable furniture, and we are beginning to see more interior designers using heavy antiques alongside contemporary pieces. Just recently, in our Collector’s Auction, a late Louis XIV walnut armoire doubled its estimate to sell for $20,000 IBP.

The increased availability and generally more affordable price tags on these impressive, well made pieces has provided an opportunity to incorporate unique, historic notes to modern interiors; you never know where the trends will go next.

JOHN ALBRECHT Chairman / Head of Important Collections

IMPORTANT JEWELS

The Legacy of Jean Schlumberger

Jean Schlumberger was born into a family of successful textile merchants in Mulhouse, France, in 1907. He initially studied literature at the Sorbonne as his parents tried to discourage his artistic interest by refusing him to undertake formal training. In the late 1930s, his earliest jewellery designs caught the eye of fashion designer Elsa Schiaparelli, who recognized his talent and hired him to create unconventional buttons for her imaginative garments. This experience proved to be a turning point in Schlumberger’s career, leading him to join the jewellery department at Tiffany & Co. in New York City. At Tiffany, Schlumberger became famous for his whimsical designs, which were infused with his unique sense of beauty and charm.

Schlumberger drew great inspiration from the natural world, and his “Bird on a Rock” brooch is one of his most distinguished creations. Produced from the 1960s, it is crafted from platinum or gold, adorned with diamonds, and features a bird perched atop a precious gemstone. The brooch is a true work of art, with every detail carefully considered to evoke a sense of splendour.

The American philanthropist Bunny Mellon was a close friend of Schlumberger and one of his greatest collectors. Her passion for his work was evident in her extensive collection of his creations, including the iconic Bird on a Rock brooch. Bunny Mellon was one of the first to recognize the significance of the brooch and purchased one of the earliest pieces in 1965. Her collection of Schlumberger’s

jewellery was one of the most extensive in the world, and it included other notable pieces, such as the Melon necklace and the Sea Urchin brooch. Bunny Mellon’s appreciation for Schlumberger’s work has helped cement his legacy as one of the most influential jewellery designers of the 20th century.

The Bird on a Rock brooch remains to this day a highly coveted piece of jewellery that is often seen on the red carpet and at society events. In recent times, the brooch has been seen adorning some of the most prominent women and men in the entertainment industry. At this year’s Grammys, rapper and music mogul Jay-Z wore the brooch as part of his ensemble, adding a touch of elegance and sophistication to his outfit. Similarly, at the Baftas, renowned Formula One driver and men’s fashion icon Lewis Hamilton wore the brooch as a statement accessory, complementing his dapper suit and tie.

The fact that the Bird on a Rock brooch is still being worn by some of the world’s highest profile celebrities today is a testament to its enduring popularity and timelessness. It speaks to the continued relevance of Schlumberger’s artistic vision and the brooch’s ability to transcend generations, cultures, and genders. With pieces on display in some of the world’s most prestigious museums, the legacy of Jean Schlumberger’s artistry will continue to inspire generations to come.

LAUREN BOUSTRIDGE / Senior Jewels Specialist, Sydney

OPPOSITE: Jean Schlumberger for Tiffany & Co. citrine, ruby and diamond 'Bird on a Rock' brooch $45,000-60,000

TOP: Jean Schlumberger for Tiffany & Co. sapphire, emerald and diamond 'Starfish' brooch, circa 2015 $75,000-100,000

Important Jewels Auction

"Jewellery is a way to showcase individual style and personality. Whether old or new, jewellery can carry a rich history, tell a story, spark conversation, and recall memories. Jewellery is as powerful as it is beautiful."

DEBORAH SYMOND O'NEIL

In Conversation

with Deborah Symond O'Neil

We are thrilled to partner with Deborah Symond O’Neil, Founder and Director of Australian fashion retailer Mode Sportif and lover of all things beauty and style, for our April Important Jewels auction. Here, we get to know Deborah and find out about her favourite ways to accessorise (hint, diamonds!).

How would you describe your personal jewellery style?

I’m not afraid to have fun with jewellery, which means how I wear jewellery changes between, day, evening, and events. My personal collection features a mix of minimal, sculptural, vibrant, statement, and simple pieces and I absolutely love pairing my outfits to my jewellery. Jewellery has the power to transform a look and create a mood.

Jewels have been worn as talismans for millennia across many cultures. Why do you think jewellery is so powerful and personal?

Jewellery is a way to showcase individual style and personality. Whether old or new, jewellery can carry a rich history, tell a story, spark conversation, and recall memories. Jewellery is as powerful as it is beautiful.

What is your personal favourite piece from the April Important Jewels collection at Leonard Joel?

As we shot this feature, the moment I wore the Bulgari suite, I knew it was my favourite piece from the collection. The coloured sapphires transform an outfit and make an incredible statement. The way the necklace falls is so unique, it’s simply magical!

Describe a typical outfit for you, and how you would accessorise it.

I love to play with fashion, so my everyday outfit is always a bit different, but I love to layer my jewellery, wearing two necklaces together in varying lengths, or a stack of bracelets

in different shapes. I tend to choose one focal point for dayto-day jewellery. Either making a statement with my necklace or earrings depending on the neckline, cut, and aesthetic of the outfit.

Congratulations on your daughter’s christening! What jewellery piece would you choose for her to treasure as an heirloom?

Thank you, it was such a special day! I passed down my grandmother’s vintage Cartier watch to Violet for her christening, and my mother passed on the pearl earrings she gave me for my 21st birthday, to Violet. I love how jewellery can connect people and is timeless through the generations.

What’s one staple piece of jewellery that you think every woman should have in her jewellery box?

Why a diamond ring, of course!

Is there a special piece of jewellery in your collection that you could tell us about?

My husband designed my engagement ring with a jeweller in Sydney, and when he proposed to me, he passed on a book filled with his original sketches and the design process. It’s my most treasured piece.

OPPOSITE & ABOVE: Deborah Symond O'Neil wearing her favourite pieces from the April Important Jewels auction at Leonard Joel

PREVIOUS SPREAD: Deborah wears a spectacular Bulgari 18ct gold, fancy coloured sapphire and diamond 'Rosette' suite, circa 2005, estimated at $175,000–200,000

Photography: Oliver Begg

Stylist: Marina Afonina

Hair and makeup: Filomena Natoli

The Hermann & Inge THUMM COLLECTION

Formerly at Chateau Yaldara, Barossa Valley

OPPOSITE: A fine Sèvres porcelain inset and ormolu candelabra, early 19th century

$3,000-5,000

ABOVE: A pair of Sèvres Napoleon porcelain cabinet plates, circa 1805 (part)

$2,000-3,000

In April, Leonard Joel’s Decorative Arts department will have the pleasure of offering the Hermann and Inge Thumm Collection, bringing to a close a remarkable sixty-year chapter in Australian collecting. As with the wine they produced, the story of the Thumms and their collection, comprising traditional European porcelain and other objects, furniture, and art, represents a fine blend of the Old World and New World in post-war Australia.

Born in 1912 to a wine-making family within a German Lutheran community settled in Georgia, Hermann Thumm later escaped Soviet Russian occupation of Georgia and dispossession of the family estate and settled in Iran. Upon the combined BritishRussian invasion of Iran early in the Second World, Hermann was arrested as an enemy alien and ultimately transferred to detention in internment camps in South Australia and Victoria (where he made sparkling wine in beer bottles!). Upon his release in 1946 and sponsored by the pastor of the Langmeil Church, Hermann joined the long-settled Lutheran winemaking community at Tanunda in the Barossa Valley. After a year’s work as a contract wine-maker, he bought an old flax mill on the banks of the North Para River near Lyndoch and set about establishing the wine-making estate he named Chateau Yaldara, soon being joined in this by Inge, his pastor’s daughter, whom he married in 1949.

With their combined vision, backed by industriousness and Hermann’s intelligence in using his knowledge of developments in wine-making in Europe and Iran to introduce new wine styles and new ideas (including cellar-door sales) to the then-nascent Australian wine market, the Thumms were soon enjoying great success at Chateau Yaldara.

Wine-making was not the only aspect of their European heritage that Hermann and Inge wished to share in Australia. With the success of Chateau Yaldara, they were able to indulge their interest in the European decorative arts. Their vision was to create something of a private museum laid out in the estate’s grand main building – the chateau they built for the purpose – for the enjoyment of themselves and visitors.

Acquired over decades from the 1950s onwards, the largest part of their collection reflects the Thumms’ passion for porcelain in the classical eighteenth century German and French tradition. With pieces ranging in date from the eighteenth to the twentieth centuries, most being nineteenth century, the Thumm porcelain collection represents all the notable makers including Sévres, Meissen, Dresden, Royal Worcester, and Royal Vienna, and encompasses vases, urns, plates, figures and figure groups, all reflecting the richness of this tradition. Among the notable pieces of porcelain are a pair of Sévres plates depicting Napoleon receiving the keys to the city of Vienna and the Battle of Friedland, and an impressive pair of Sévres-style urns standing 114cm tall.

To display and accompany their porcelain in an appropriately gracious manner, Hermann and Inge Thumm added to their collection a range of display cabinets and other furniture including fine vitrines in Louis XV and XVI style, Boulle manner cabinets, impressive eighteenth and nineteenth marble-topped giltwood console tables, bijouterie tables, marble pedestals, and salon suites, all to be sold with their collection.

Also to be offered are the other objects which attractively rounded out the Thumm collection at Chateau Yaldara –glass, fine nineteenth clocks, sculpture, and art including an impressive marble Crouching Venus and a range of paintings by European, English, and Australian artists.

With the passing of Hermann and Inge Thumm some years ago, their son Dieter has decided that the best way to continue their legacy now is to allow their collection to pass to those who share their passionate interest in European decorative arts. Leonard Joel very much looks forward to its part in this, presenting this rare once-in-a-half-century opportunity in the same spirit that Hermann and Inge Thumm so warmly enjoyed and shared their collection.

DAVID PARSONS / Head of Private Estates and Valuations Decorative Arts Specialist

The Hermann & Inge Thumm Collection Mon 17 Apr, 6pm MELBOURNE

DESIGN ICONS

MODERN DESIGN | LUXURY | PRINTS & MULTIPLES

MODERN DESIGN

Modern Design Auction

Plastic is a ubiquitous and versatile material that has had a significant impact on the world. It has revolutionised design and manufacturing, enabling the creation of products that were previously impossible to produce. The evolution of plastic as a design material has been shaped by scientific advancements, changes in manufacturing techniques, and shifting consumer preferences.

The story of plastic begins in 1907 when Bakelite, the first fully synthetic plastic, was invented by Belgian chemist Leo Baekeland. Bakelite was a heat-resistant and non-conductive plastic that was widely used in electrical applications, such as telephone casings, radios, and light switches. It was also used for decorative objects and jewellery.

During World War II, plastic saw a surge in popularity due to the need for lightweight and durable materials for military applications. Plastics such as nylon and polystyrene were used in parachutes, helmets, and other military equipment. After the war, the production of plastic increased dramatically as manufacturers looked for ways to use the new material in consumer products. The 1950s and 1960s were a time of great innovation in plastics. Advances in manufacturing techniques made it possible to create products in larger quantities and at lower costs. This led to the development of new types of plastics such as polyethylene and polypropylene, which were more flexible and could be moulded into a variety of shapes.

During the 1960s, a design movement known as Space Age emerged, reflecting the rapid advancements and exploration of the Space Age and Space Race. Designers were inspired by the futuristic potential of space travel and new materials and technologies. This movement extended beyond just industrial design, permeating architecture and fashion, among other fields.

Space Age design was distinguished by its use of innovative materials such as plastic, fibreglass, and metal, as well as its bold, visionary forms and shapes, often biomorphic and organic in design. Many objects were modular, adaptable, and versatile, suited to a range of spaces and functions, imbued with a sense of otherworldliness and futurism. The influence of pop culture, exemplified by the iconic film 2001: A Space Odyssey, was also apparent.

Designers such as Joe Colombo, Pierre Cardin, Anna Castelli Ferrieri, Eero Aarnio and Gae Aulenti were at the forefront of this movement, creating a range of plastic furniture, lighting fixtures, and other objects that were innovative and accessible to a wider audience. The popularity of these designs has seen a resurgence in the past decade, with original pieces becoming highly collectable.

Today, it’s hard to ignore the environmental impact. Since the 1970s, many designers and manufacturers have been exploring new ways to use plastic in more sustainable and responsible ways. Recycled and biodegradable plastics have potential as sustainable alternatives; however, one of the most ecoconscious decisions a consumer can make is to buy vintage.

We have some great examples of Space Age design coming up in the April Modern Design Auction, including a set of six Maurice Burke ‘Tulip’ swivel armchairs for Arkana and a Sergio Mazza ‘Bacco’ bar table for Artemide.

REBECCA STORMONT / Modern Design Specialist

OPPOSITE: Sergio Mazza Bacco bar table for Artemide $600-800

Verner Panton nine Panton chairs for Vitra (part)

$2,600-3,600

TOP: Maurice Burke set of four tulip swivel armchairs for Arkana (part) $1,000-1,400

Luxury A Little Bit About Goyard, 1792

Of the many luxury houses that have seen a resurgence in the latter part of the 20th century, Goyard stands alone for exclusivity, prestige, and style. Goyard evolved from the House of Martin, which was established by trunk maker Pierre-Francois Martin in 1792. Former apprentice Francois Goyard took over the firm in 1852, opening workshops where he could control production of his items from start to finish, thus maintaining the quality and standard of his product. The distinctive Goyardine canvas takes its inspiration from Francois’ family history; they worked as transporters that moved firewood by inland waterways. The unique canvas design with piled up dots in a chevron pattern clearly hints at logs driven by his ancestors from the forests of Morvan to Paris. The coated cloth debuted for the World Exposition in 1900 and remains unchanged today, keeping its iconic chevron design. In 2002, the Goyardine canvas was given a new lease of life with the addition of twelve new colours. This revitalised the brand and introduced a new, younger clientele.

Historical clients of the firm include Pablo Picasso, Coco Chanel, Marilyn Monroe, and the former Duke and Duchess of Windsor. The latter commissioned an array of trunks and travel goods, as well as Chic du Chien accessories for their poodles and then in later years for their pugs. High profile and active clients between 1939 and 1986, the Duke and Duchess gave the already prestigious house an extra cachet. So popular were the dog accessories that in 2008, Goyard opened a standalone ‘Le Chic du Chien’ boutique, entirely dedicated to pet accessories and excursion items at 352, rue Saint-Honoré right across the street from its historic store at 233, rue Saint-Honoré.

Although the house has seen great expansion and innovation in recent years, the boutiques remain quaint and true to their origins. Now owned by Jean-Michel Signoles who bought Goyard in 1998 and without the backing of a leading group, Goyard is a millennium success story. With its recent reinvention and complete disregard for over marketing or mass-production of its costly goods, Goyard remains a beacon of timeless elegance, craftsmanship, and exclusivity.

JOHN D'AGATA / Head of Luxury

Luxury Auction

Tues 4 Apr, 6pm

MELBOURNE

TOP: A Goyard tote styled in blue Goyardine canvas with blue leather trim and silver tone metal hardware $1,500-2,000

LEFT: Goyard, rue Saint-Honoré, Paris / Alamy

Prints & Multiples Auction

Wed 5 Apr, 6pm

MELBOURNE

TOP: BRETT WHITELEY (1939-1992)

Lavender Bay in the Rain 1987 lithograph, ed. 8/75

101 x 74.5cm

$15,000-20,000

© Wendy Whiteley/Copyright Agency, 2022

BELOW: BRETT WHITELEY (1939-1992)

Figure on an Orange Background 1961 screenprint, ed. 74/75

66 x 50cm

$4,500-6,500

© Wendy Whiteley/Copyright Agency, 2022

Prints & Multiples

Brett Whiteley: A Unique Approach to Printmaking

Australian artist Brett Whiteley (1939 – 1992) was at the height of his career in the 1970s, when he dominated the country’s art scene. 1976 began in a burst of publicity as he won the 1976 Archibald and Sir John Sulman portraiture awards, and in 1977 the landscape Wynne award. In 1978, he won all three again. This period of success saw Whiteley transcend through mediums and stylistic forms, whilst also descending into a heroin addiction to where he produced some of his most renowned and highly praised pieces. Becoming accustomed to multiple mediums, his printmaking career extended from 1961 – 1992 working across various established print studios and with printmakers around the world. Whiteley’s first introduction to serious printmaking was in 1961 at Kelpra Studios, London, where he explored a body of works, ‘The London Zoo Series’.

‘…This was the first time that I really took printmaking and especially silk screen really seriously. It was more than just a way of bleeding gouaches, it was the first time I conceived in series, where each print would confirm or contradict the image before it, and also it offered the challenge of seeing just what was possible using screen with photography and colour…’

Whiteley was an extremely talented printmaker who utilised a unique medium approach that combined both traditional printmaking techniques and his own vision. His works focus on the exploration of form and line, combined with an experimental use of colour and varied printing techniques. A celebration of the nude female body is one of the artist’s most persistent themes. Lithography for the sensual line

of the nude accentuates the flattening of the perspective that he so admired. His series of eight lithographs ‘Towards Sculpture’ 1977 beautifully exhibits these elements and encapsulates the intimate beauty and poetic undertones he was so known for.

In 1970, Brett and Wendy Whiteley moved into their Lavender Bay home. The view from the studio was breathtaking and acts as the primary viewpoint from which he recorded the many moods of the Sydney Harbour throughout his career. His screenprint ‘Lavender Bay in the Rain’ 1984 was created with the alignment, drawing inspiration, and the title from his 1974 oil work. The similarity across both mediums is uncanny; the soft hues of colour across both works create a calming and poetic form. The screenprint holds strong and sensual line work with natural beauty and a modern touch from his 1974 painting.

Although Brett Whiteley’s life was shortened in 1992, he was able to achieve a lasting body of work that elevates him beyond his fame as an Australian artist. Even to this day, his print oeuvre is seen as some of the most inspiring examples of contemporary print making.

Leonard Joel is delighted to be presenting a vast collection of prints by Brett Whiteley spanning across lithography, screenprinting, and etching in our forthcoming April Prints and Multiples auction.

HANNAH RYAN / Art Specialist

1. B. Whiteley ‘A few words about printmaking’ in R Mandy Brett Whiteley p.4

FINE JEWELS

Six Famous Engagement Rings Through History

Fine Jewels & Timepieces

Auction

As with many Western traditions, the presentation of a ring to celebrate a betrothal can be traced back to the ancient Romans. Archaeologists and historians have confirmed that the Romans wore rings of flint, ivory, copper, and iron to signify love and commitment. Whilst the sentiment of giving an engagement ring remains steadfast today, styles and gemstone preferences have varied greatly over time. Read on to discover more about some of the most iconic engagement rings throughout history.

JOSÉPHINE BONAPARTE

In 1796, Napoleon Bonaparte presented his love Joséphine de Beauharnais with a ‘Toi et Moi’ ring. Translating from French to ‘You and Me’, the ring comprised of a pear-cut sapphire and diamond nestled side by side, representing the joining of two hearts in union. Unsurprisingly given the provenance, the ring sold at auction in 2013 for €730,000 against an estimate of €10,000 - €15,000.

QUEEN VICTORIA

Queen Victoria proposed to Albert in 1849 and following his acceptance she said it was the ‘happiest brightest moment in my life’. Following the unique proposal, Victoria was bestowed a coiled serpent ring from Albert set with her birthstone, an emerald, which was common practice at the time. Today, a coiled snake seems an unlikely choice for an engagement ring, however in Victorian society it was recognised as a symbol of wisdom and commitment. Whilst there is no exact confirmation, it is believed that the Queen was buried with her engagement ring following her death in 1901.

WALLIS SIMPSON

One of the more controversial royal matches was the union between American socialite Wallis Simpson and King Edward VIII, later the Duke of Windsor. Just prior to his abdication from the throne in 1936, the King proposed to Simpson with an impressive 19.77 emerald and diamond ring in platinum by Cartier. To celebrate their 20th wedding anniversary, Wallis had the ring re-designed by Cartier into a gold cluster setting in keeping with mid-century taste. Following her death in 1986, the famous ring sold at Sotheby’s Geneva for $1.98USD.

GRACE KELLY

In 1948, De Beers declared that ‘a diamond is forever’, aligning the longevity of marriage with the physical durability of a diamond. The decade that followed saw impressive diamonds take centre stage in engagement ring design. The Cartier ring commissioned by Prince Rainier III of Monaco for his engagement to American actress Grace Kelly is one such example. Centring a 10.47 carat emerald-cut diamond, the ring features in High Society (1956) where during a particular scene Kelly polishes the rock before leaning back to admire its beauty. Today, the ring remains in the collection of the House of Grimaldi.

LADY

DIANA SPENCER, PRINCESS OF WALES

The sapphire and diamond cluster ring worn by Princess Diana is one of the most recognisable pieces of jewellery in history. Controversially, the ‘Marguerite’ ring made by crown jeweller Garrard & Co. was not a bespoke piece, which was highly unusual for a royal engagement. Despite the staggering £47,000 price tag in 1981, the Queen was reportedly displeased with the ring being a ready-made design featured in the Garrard catalogue. Diana continued to wear the ring following her divorce from Charles, and it continues to be worn today by Kate Middleton, the Duchess of Cambridge.

ELIZABETH TAYLOR

No listing of iconic engagement rings would be complete without reference to Elizabeth Taylor’s ‘Krupp diamond’ gifted to her from Richard Burton following five years of marriage. The 33.19 carat Asscher cut diamond is not only large but of an extremely high quality, graded by the Gemological Association of America as a D colour and VS1 clarity. It is reported that Taylor wore the diamond almost daily, stating it was her favourite piece in her vast collection of jewels. The diamond was offered at Christie’s in 2011 as ‘The Elizabeth Taylor Diamond’, and sold for $8,818,500USD.

BETHANY MCGOUGAN / Head of Fine Jewels & Timepieces

OPPOSITE: Grace Kelly, wearing her engagment ring from Prince Rainier / Alamy

TOP: Prince Charles and Lady Diana Spencer announce their engagement, February 1981 / Alamy

BELOW: The Elizabeth Taylor diamond ring of 33.19 carats / Alamy

TIMEPIECES

Verg(e)ing on the under-valued

Auction Mon 26 Jun, 6pm MELBOURNE

OPPOSITE: M Storr, London a gold pair case Verge watch mid 18th century $2,000-3,000

ABOVE:

To my mind, any reputable watch collection should include at least one verge fusee pocketwatch, not only because it is a representation of the evolution to the watch that we wear on our wrist today, but for the exquisite intricacy of the movement and the enchanting impossible-to-look-awayfrom craftsmanship of the case and dial. There is something positively enchanting about an early verge fusee that evokes the beginning of watch making as it evolved from the clockmaker’s craft to where it could be held as a portable timepiece in the palm of a hand, and that hand more often than not belonging to a gentleman of some social standing.

In today’s watch collecting world dominated by post-war wristwatches from the super brands, pocketwatches have been relegated to the status of the also-ran, and to escape the melting pot, in the words of one London dealer, “must have something that sets them apart to make them saleable.” Enter the verge fusee, a pocketwatch which encapsulates moments of startling horological innovation and jaw dropping workmanship.

Verge escapements were used from the 14th Century through to the mid-19th Century in clocks and pocketwatches. The pairing of the verge escapement (the mechanism that controls the gear train to advance at regular intervals, or ‘tick’) with a fusee (from the French fusée, wire wound around a spindle) was groundbreaking because it made possible the development of all-mechanical clocks. This spelled the end

of having to measure time by continuous processes such the flow of liquid, such as water, mercury, or even sand through the hourglass, which dated from the Middle Ages. The verge fusee movement ran on coiled springs, coupled with a grooved cone wound with a tiny chain, which coiled around another post in a pulley system. Inspired by the winches and counter balances of the rigging of sailing ships, this method was used to refine the timekeeping of the movement by regulating the speed at which the mainspring unwinds.

And if these movements with their air of mystery about them were not captivating enough, the pair cases that housed them and often sold separately were similarly enchanting. This bifurcation of the horological profession resulted in many watches which bear the name of one maker on the movement and a different one on the case or dial. Case making was a respected craft all of its own, hand crafted in gold and precious metals with wonderful repousse decoration, jewelled and enamelled. The dials, typically gold or silver champleve, were equally refined in skill and artistry.

Consequently, when considering a pocketwatch to add to a collection that sits apart from the commonplace, patently obvious is the ingenious horological innovation and remarkable workmanship of the verge fusee, a pocketwatch that not only tells the time, but the history of time as well.

PATRICIA KONTOS / Senior Jewels & Timepieces Specialist

William Mason, London a silver pair case Verge watch circa 1750 $1,000-1,500

Fine Jewels & Timepieces

CENTUM

OPPOSITE:

The Art of the Prize

It’s crucial in any industry to have the opportunity to gain recognition for outstanding talent. Museums, corporations, and philanthropic groups provide distinguished art awards which we as an industry look to annually to celebrate achievement in the visual arts. While serving as a way to honour the outstanding artistic talent of the day, many would agree that these prizes also act as success indicators for buyers, particularly when considering younger emerging artists who have yet to build up their prices on the secondary market.

Considered one of Australia’s most engaging art events, The Archibald is an Australian prize for portraiture painting and is generally regarded as the most prestigious visual arts award in Australia. Held by the Art Gallery of New South Wales, the exhibition features portraiture honouring those who have made an impact on Australian society. The title, currently held by Blak Douglas who won in 2022 for his portrait of artist Karla Dickens, marks him as the second Aboriginal artist to win the Archibald (following Vincent Namatjira, who won in 2020). Adam Cullen, who is also a regular feature in our annual Centum contemporary art auction, won the Archibald prize in 2000 with his portrait of actor David Wenham. Miniature artist, Natasha Bieniek, an eight-time finalist with her portrait of Wendy Whiteley was highly commended in 2016 and more recently, Sally Ross (five-time finalist) had a work selected for the one hundred years of the Archibald Prize exhibition in 2021. Other multi-time finalists include Brent Harris, Abdul Abdullah, William Mackinnon, and Prudence Flint, a seventime finalist. She also won the Len Fox Painting Award (2016), the Portia Geach Memorial Award (2010), and the Doug Moran National Portrait Prize in 2004.

Sam Leach, featured in this year’s Centum auction, won the Archibald in 2012 for his portrait of musical comedian Tim Minchin. In the same year, he won the Wynne Prize for his

landscape Proposal for Landscaped Cosmos. In doing so he became the third artist only after William Dobell and Brett Whiteley to win the Archibald and the Wynne landscape prize in the same year.

Dedicated to landscape and figure sculpture art, the Wynne prize (est. 1897) is the longest-running art prize in Australia. William McKinnon, Aaron Kinnane, and Blak Douglas, all featured in this auction, have been finalists, with Natasha Bieniek winning in 2015. Bieniek in the same year also won the Portia Geach Memorial Award. Her portrait miniatures were selected for the Doug Moran National Portrait Prize in 2011 and 2012, and in 2013, her work was hung in the University of Queensland’s National Artists’ Self-Portrait Prize.

Kathrin Longhurst celebrated a long career in 2021 when she completed her 18th solo show and has been a finalist in numerous awards including the Archibald Prize, the Darling Prize at the National Portrait Gallery, the Doug Moran Prize, the Sulman Prize, the Percival Portrait Award, the Mosman Art Prize, the Portia Geach Award and in 2021 she won the Archibald Packing Room Prize.

Other multi-winning artists include Pippin Drysdale whose lifetime of work in the arts was recognised when she was awarded as a Living Treasure in 2015. Of the niche categories, Lawrence Starky was Highly Commended for the Wildlife and Western Art Show in Minnesota.

While only naming a few above, our Centum contemporary art auction in May encapsulates an award-rich line up of artists that have excelled in their respective categories, assisting buyers to navigate the secondary market using these awards as indicators of success and future potential. We look forward to presenting the 2023 Centum collection to you.

LUCY FOSTER / Senior Art Specialist

Four Antiques to Easily Style in Your Modern Home

REFECTORY TABLE

Originally used for dining in monasteries during Medieval times, the humble refectory table has proven to be a functional and timeless addition to any home. In the Late Middle Ages, the table gradually became a banqueting or feasting table in castles and other noble residences, eventually becoming common in northern Europe in the late 16th century. Typically crafted from oak and based on the trestle table design with a low stretcher close to the floor and solid legs, the elongated length makes these the perfect dining table in an open plan home.

WOODEN TRUNK

The wooden trunk is probably the earliest form of storage. It would have originally been made from a hollowed-out log which gave it the name “trunk” and would have had a hinged domed top. It is the most common and versatile movable form of antique furniture in the home. The names and functions for these have varied throughout the ages and depending on what country they were made in, for example in Italy they were primarily known as “cassone” and were one of the trophy furnishings of rich merchants and aristocrats in Italian culture from the Late Middle Ages onward. The cassone was the most important piece of furniture of that time. It would be given to the bride during the wedding, and it was the bride’s parents’ contribution to the union. Other uses in different cultures have ranged from blanket storage, food containers, traveling luggage, weapons cache, and clothing receptacles. Their uses today are just as varied, they look particularly smart at the foot of a bed for linen storage and are equally as effective as coffee tables or low sideboards.

PERSIAN CARPET

Whether it be a Heriz, Tabriz, Sarouk or Bijar, to name a few, there are a multitude of antique Persian carpets to choose from. A long runner down the hall or a large centrepiece in the lounge room can tie the room together and bring a subtlety of colour and pattern which can often be lacking in the modern home. The level of craftmanship in these pieces is astounding and can provide an attractive focal point in any room. The art of carpet weaving in Iran originated more than 2,500 years ago. Persian carpets and rugs were initially woven as articles of necessity to cover the floors of nomadic tribesmen, giving them protection from the cold and damp. The natural progression of the skill and craft involved in the creation of these works of art has been passed down from generation to generation over the centuries. As international trade developed, the variety of patterns and designs grew which means you are likely to find not just one but many possibilities to match your décor.

WINDSOR CHAIR

The ubiquitous Windsor chair is immediately recognisable and has the added benefit of being incredibly comfortable, often with a moulded seat and supportive armrests. The chair takes its name from the English town of Windsor which was the centre of trade between the producers of these chairs and London, the first shipment being sent down to London in 1724. The wooden chair is easily identifiable due to the thin, turned spindles that form the back and sides. Legend has it that King George II, seeking shelter from a storm, arrived at a peasant cottage and was given a multi-spindled chair to sit on. Its comfort and simplicity impressed him so much that he had his own furniture-maker copy it. Original Windsor chairs can often be found at auction and their affordability makes it fairly simple to put together a harlequin set which can look very stylish.

OPPOSITE TOP: An oak and elm refectory table Sold for $5,750

OPPOSITE BOTTOM: An Italian walnut cassone Sold for $4,000

TOP LEFT: An impressive antique tabriz medallion carpet Sold for $18,750

TOP RIGHT: An elm windsor chair Sold for $1,125

Collector's Auction

MADELEINE NORTON / Associate Head of Decorative Arts & Art, Sydney

Important Jewels Auction

Mon 24 Apr, 6pm

SYDNEY

TOP LEFT: Bulgari diamond and multi-gem 'Allegra' bracelet

$7,000-10,000

TOP RIGHT: David Webb pair 18ct gold tiger's eye and diamond ear clips $17,000-22,000

BELOW: Cartier coral and diamond 'Wasp' brooch, circa 1960 $11,000-17,000

Brisbane

Luxury Jewellery Brands of Desire

In the world of fine jewellery, some names stand out for their historic associations, superlative quality, and innovative designs. Let’s take a look at some master jewellers that are especially celebrated for the beauty and rarity of their creations.

CARTIER

Highly collectable and much sought after by jewellery enthusiasts are the iconic Panther and Tutti Frutti pieces by Cartier. Both collections exude luxury, elegance, and strength. Inspired by Jeanne Toussaint, Cartier’s artistic director from 1933 - 1970, the panther was a favourite of the Duchess of Windsor, Wallis Simpson, among others.

Bursting with colour, the Tutti Frutti designs provided a welcome step away from the monochromatic styles that dominated the Art Deco period, offering a perfect example of East meets West with its carved gemstones and European technical mastery. Though the iconic style was created in 1901 by Pierre Cartier and remained popular well into the 1920s, it was not until the 1970s that the style became known as Tutti Frutti.

BULGARI

The name Bulgari is synonymous with 1960s Italian glamour and famous for colourful gemstone jewellery. No jewellery collection would be complete without a Bulgari Serpenti bracelet. Bulgari was founded in 1884 by Sotirios Voulgaris, a man of Greek heritage who lived in Rome, and the influence of Greek and Roman mythology and culture can be seen in all Bulgari designs. The serpent has become synonymous with the brand, and represents wisdom, vitality, and seduction.

DAVID WEBB

Displaying fabulous colours and extraordinary designs, David Webb’s animal motif bracelets are highly desirable, and emblematic of the brand. One of the most significant American jewellers, Webb created pieces featuring much of the animal kingdom; including: frogs, zebras, monkeys, giraffes, and elephants.

GRIMA

Self-taught, Andrew Grima let his imagination run wild with his conversation starter pieces. Unquestionably one of the greatest jewellery designers of the 20th century, Grima’s organic, fantastical yet wearable designs have inspired many. He was a champion of unusual and rough (non-faceted) stones and used diamonds to accentuate bold pieces rather than take the spotlight.

SUZANNE BELPERRON

Albeit recognisable, Belperron is tricky to collect as she never signed her work and you will have to compete with the likes of Karl Lagerfeld, who owned one of the largest Belperron collections. Belperron worked for Maison René Boivin, under the founder’s widow, Jeanne Boivin, until 1932, when she left to become the Artistic and Technical Director of the Maison Bernard Herz. Her creations reveal her deep appreciation and fondness for nature, containing motifs from a range of cultures; African, Cambodian, Celtic, Egyptian, and Indian, and typically combine precious stones with hammered gold. Her famous following included The Duke and Duchess of Windsor, Daisy Fellowes, and Fred Astaire.

TROY MCKENZIE / Queensland Representative Specialist

How to... Curate a contemporary art collection

WITH JAMES MAKIN

James Makin is a Melbourne based art advisor, art dealer, curator, consultant, artist manager, and owner of Collingwood’s James Makin Gallery. Here, he shares his advice on collecting contemporary works of art.

There are so many talented contemporary artists working in Australia and around the world. How would you suggest a collector refines their options to choose the artists and works that will suit them best? Should this process of refinement be one of continuous revision?

When going beyond simple decoration of your home with a few ‘hero’ pieces, I would say that on most occasions, collecting art is quite personal. A collection is usually best developed around taste and personal style. When consulting with budding collectors, I will meet with them to discuss their interests, for example sculpture, photography, or painting, abstract or figurative, and on from there. Usually, collectors already have a few pieces that they own that we can use as a starting point to branch out. We can also decide to have boundaries to the collection. A theme, if you will, makes for a better and more interesting collection than a scatter gun approach or simply buying ‘signatures’ (popular artists of the time). I would also advise to collect fewer artists in depth, instead going for many artists with one or two pieces by each. And yes, curating a collection is a constant ongoing process of review, acquisition, and deaccession.

As an advisor, you work with both corporate as well as private collectors. Do you find that your advice on curating a contemporary collection, and the criteria of those collectors, can differ between the two?

Yes, very much so. In advising corporate collecting, one must be mindful of public perception. Will the art be considered

offensive to anyone? Where will it be installed? And so on. In corporate collecting advice we look closer at overall diversity. This can be less important in a private collection.

Your gallery space in Melbourne’s inner-city suburb of Collingwood hosts numerous exhibitions and art events for collectors annually. How important do you think it is for a collector to experience contemporary art in a physical space, as opposed to online?

Online is excellent and we’re all used to viewing things digitally these days, but I’d say always get in front of the physical piece whenever possible. Scale especially can be misconstrued online. Once you’re well versed with a particular artist, then by all means buy online, sight unseen. This will usually be necessary to secure the best piece prior to the opening. But art is tangible, go and soak it up in person.

Who are the top contemporary Australian artists you are watching in 2023?

Of course, having a gallery of amazing artists whom I represent, I’ll say all of them. But, for a broader answer, I have recently signed these artists who will be having their first show with my gallery soon: Emma Coulter (VIC), Zoe Grey (TAS), and Braddon Snape (NSW).  As far as contemporary artists who I don’t represent and really like; John Price Siddon, Vernon Ah Kee, Louise Haselton, Jedda Daisy Culley, Guido Maestri, and James Drinkwater.

Thank you, James! Discover more at jamesmakingallery.com

ABOVE: JAMES DRINKWATER (born 1983)

Minutes with…

YOUR IDEAL DAY IN MELBOURNE

An ideal day in Melbourne begins with my partner, my Boston Terrier Patsy Cline, some food, and a coffee. Our neighbourhood has lots of choices, but a couple of cheese and mushroom empanadas and a cappuccino hits the spot. Then we take Pats to the local park for a little playtime. She’s crazy for tennis balls! Afterwards, we jump on a tram to the city, visit the National Gallery of Victoria, take a slow stroll and people watch. This is followed by a long lunch in Chinatown and then a movie, preferably a documentary or anything with Cate Blanchett in it. Then we go to an outdoor bar or a park for a beer or two as the sun sets before returning to Pats for some more playtime and a snuggle. Somewhere in there would be a bit of time for reading as well!

FAVOURITE

FILM

One of my favourite films is The Store (1983) by Frederick Wiseman, a fun and fascinating slice-of-life documentary about the staff and clientele of a luxury department store in Dallas, Texas.

FAVOURITE ARTIST/DESIGNER

As many would understand, it’s so hard to pick a favourite anything, especially when it comes to artists or designers. At the moment, some of my favourite creative people include the German ceramicist Ursula Scheid (1932-2008) with her beautifully crafted, understated, strange and sublime vases, bowls and lidded jars. I have a small collection of her work that I literally stare at all day. I am also in love with the German-American photographer Uta Barth (1958-) with her almost abstract, and often out of focus, images of light, edges, openings and empty spaces.

FAVOURITE BOOK

Continuing with favourites, one of my favourite books is Henry David Thoreau’s Walden. Like many, I have dual personalities, one of which dreams of a life of solitude and reflection. I’ve probably read it ten times!

LEONARD JOEL STAFF ALL SEEM TO HAVE A SIDE PROJECT OR TALENT, WHAT’S YOURS?

On the side, I enjoy taking photos of the quirky architectural features of Brunswick. I also enjoy art and design research, so reading and writing are a constant for me.

This issue, we spend five minutes with Kyle Walker, who recently joined our busy Objects & Collectables team.

Zero Indian rhinos poached for the first time in 45 years

The year has started off with a great conservation success.

IFAW (International Fund for Animal Welfare) and WTI (Wildlife Trust of India) have congratulated the Assam government and local communities on the achievement that no rhinos were poached in the Indian state in 2022.

This achievement marks the first time there have been zero poaching incidents in the region in 45 years. It follows strong public action on burning 2,500 rhino horns seized from poachers last year.

Assam, home to the world’s largest population of one-horned rhinos, has nearly 2,900 animals across the region today. The species was once widespread across the entire northern region of India, but was pushed to the brink of extinction due to poaching in the early ‘90s. According to Assam authorities, the last recorded date a rhino was poached was on 28 December 2021.

Thanks to conservation efforts, the species has now doubled in population across north-eastern India. This sets a global example on how we can change the narrative and improve the future for a species.

The greater one-horned rhino, otherwise known as the Indian rhino, is easily identifiable by its single horn – which is only present in adult rhinos. Their horn can measure up to approximately 10 inches and weighs around 7 lbs. The greater one-horned rhino uses its horn to defend its territory, protect its calves from other rhinos and predators, and for foraging – such as digging for water and breaking branches. As a megaherbivore, these rhinos play an important role within their ecosystem and are relied on by other herbivores.

IFAW and WTI have been honoured to work alongside the Assam government and communities on the long-term enforcement and reduction of rhino horn poaching, as well as the vital recovery of rhino habitats such as Kaziranga National Park and Manas National Park.

Manas National Park is home to diverse wildlife, including tigers, Asian elephants, one-horned rhinos, golden langurs, swamp deer and clouded leopards. Civil unrest in the 1980s and early 1990s left the landscape vulnerable to poaching, deforestation and fragmentation. Wildlife populations were severely impacted and nearly all of the park’s existing rhino population was wiped out.

As the region stabilised, IFAW began working with WTI and the Assam Forest Department to repopulate the park and re-establish it as one of the most exceptional wildlife parks in the world through our Greater Manas Recovery Project.

The partnership between IFAW and WTI has made huge progress in ensuring that rhinos and other wildlife have a safe and secure habitat. Key to the partnership is community engagement activities to reduce dependency on forest resources. This includes working closely with strong local institutions, promoting smart agriculture and livestock monitoring as an alternative for forest-dependent households.

We will continue to be here in Assam to support this work on the ground, doing what we do best, with the government and communities.

PHILLIP KUVAWOGA / IFAW Landscape Conservation Director

ON 22 MARCH 2017, THE FIRST INDUSTRY BRIEFING BETWEEN IFAW (INTERNATIONAL FUND FOR ANIMAL WELFARE) AND AUCTIONEERS AND ANTIQUE DEALERS FROM AUSTRALIA TOOK PLACE, WITH THE VIEW TO ENDING THE AUCTION AND ANTIQUES TRADE IN RHINOCEROS HORN AND IVORY. THAT SAME YEAR, LEONARD JOEL INTRODUCED A VOLUNTARY CESSATION POLICY AND WE ARE PROUD TO NO LONGER SELL THESE MATERIALS. IN THE "22ND REPORT", IFAW SHARE THE LATEST NEWS ON THEIR CONSERVATION PROJECTS AROUND THE WORLD.

ABOVE: A wild rhino explores a water hole in Kaziranga National Park in India on January 20, 2018.

Photo: Scott Anger / © IFAW

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LEFT: A pinchbeck and paste demi-parure, early 19th century (part), discovered at a Leonard Joel Valuation Evening and sold for $2,500 IBP

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Listen back to these conversations on Spotify, Apple Podcasts or Simplecast, and subscribe to the Art Guide Podcast to keep up-to-date on new episodes as they’re released.

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A Last Look

Sold for $18,750

Asian Works of Art, March 2023

gunsmith of Charing Cross Road, London. Examples of Prosser’s presentation swords and sabres can be found in important English collections including the National Maritime Museum and the Royal Collection. Most of these are of generally similar form and style, including such elements as an animal head pommel and gilt metal lockets and chapes to their leather scabbards. The richness of decoration on the Macqueen sabre is rare however, with its fully gilt hilt, fine cut steel blade, and intricate reticulated acorn and oak leaf design to the scabbard boldly set against a plush black velvet ground.

A large Chinese carved blue and white phoenix tail vase, Fengweizun Kangxi period (1661-1722)

E.Dropsy, 18ct gold and diamond pendant/brooch, French, circa 1900 Sold for $2,250 Holiday Jewels, December 2022

A Georg Jensen sterling silver comport Sold for $3,750 Decorative Arts Auction, March 2023

JOHN PETER RUSSELL (1858-1930) Belle Isle 1903 watercolour Sold for $17,500 The Collector's Auction, February 2023

An inscribed Chinese painted fan with carved bamboo guards, Republic period (1912-1949) Sold for $8,125 Asian Works of Art, March 2023

A French patinated-bronze equestrian figure of Louis XIV Sold for $62,500

The Collector's Auction, February 2023

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With regular auctions in Fine Art, Jewels & Watches, Decorative Arts, Modern Design, Luxury and more, there’s something to suit every taste at Leonard Joel.

Value / Sell / Buy Contact a Leonard Joel Specialist

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ART

Amanda North 03 8825 5630 | art.manager@leonardjoel.com.au

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Angus McGougan 03 8825 5640 | furniture.manager@leonardjoel.com.au

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Leonard Magazine

EDITOR

Blanka Nemeth, Marketing & Communications Manager

Emerald and diamond ring, weighing approximately 10.60 carats

$20,000 - 30,000

Important Jewels Auction, 24 April 2023