Technique
This scanned image was shot on Ilford XP2 Super, using an Olympus XA3 film camera
KIT LIST ▲
Light source
A light source is required to illuminate the negatives. This should be evenly lit, diffused and bright enough not to slow shutter speed. It could be as simple as an iPad / tablet that is set to a white screen, an LED panel light or even a standard light box. Or you may have some other kind of lighting in your kit collection.
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Digital camera
Most modern digital cameras with interchangeable lenses will do a great job. If you don’t own one and will only use it for scanning, look for a cheap second-hand Canon model like the 550D as it has native macro lenses and tethering capabilities.
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Macro lens
A macro lens that can achieve 1:1 magnification ratio is essential for optimal scanning results as focus needs to be close enough for the negative to fill the entire frame without cropping in post-production. Don’t try to get away with a cheap zoom lens.
Copy stand The camera needs to be kept fixed and stable. It is possible to use a tripod but a dedicated copy stand is a much better option. Negative Supply’s ‘Pro Riser’ is an excellent choice. If you already own an enlarger you could also adapt this.
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Software
To convert your scanned negative into a positive, there are numerous options available. A great option for Lightroom users is Negative Lab Pro, a plug-in for inverting and editing scanned negs. You can get a free trial of 12 scans to see if it is right for you.
ALL PICTURES © MATT PARRY
From analog
14
to digital
