Canadian Geographic/Haida Rising

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BY LESLIE ANTHONY

T

he tent door rustled in an unfamiliar way. Unfamiliar because after several days on this remote Pacific beach, I was pretty sure that the inevitable morning breeze wasn’t interested in poking its head through the unzipped mesh door — or snorting its arrival. With barely time to suck in my breath, I prepared to scream bloody murder at what was almost certainly an intruder with a squat furry face. But before I could release that tremulous yell, a sleek auburn muzzle appeared, followed by chestnut eyes and twitching ears. Improbably, like some hand-puppet theatre, another slipped in beside it. A pair of curious deer found themselves staring at a naked and cowering man. Satisfied this wasn’t anything edible, let alone threatening, the deer withdrew and contented themselves with nibbling grass that sprang from the sand around a massive weathered log to which the tent was anchored. They paid

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CANADIAN GEOGRAPHIC

APRIL 2010

little heed as I donned shorts and slipped out to photograph them against a backdrop of driftwood-crossed beaches sloping below dark forest palisades. In front of us, gentle breakers foamed over a glistening mud flat while Alaskan peaks deliquesced on the northern horizon. I could have shooed away the deer to assert that this was my spot. Instead, having these animals treat me as part of their environment stirred some deep-rooted comfort and connection, and I responded by sitting on the log to prepare breakfast while my visitors finished theirs. That sunrise encounter occurred during my first of several visits to this archipelago off the central coast of British Columbia as a biologist, outdoor adventurer and writer. It wasn’t exactly a vignette from the Haida myth of the trickster raven prying open a giant clamshell to release the first humans upon these shores, but wild deer entreating me to emerge from a nylon shell into a new dawn seemed a wholly

THIS PAGE: TOP: MINDEN PICTURES/MASTERFILE; MIDDLE: JOHN E. MARRIOTT; OPPOSITE PAGE: BILL CURTSINGER/NATIONAL GEOGRAPHIC IMAGE COLLECTION

A new marine reserve on Haida Gwaii reflects the vital bonds between land and sea and renews hopes for an ecologically and economically sustainable future


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