Ramen Magazine

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Your guide to east meets west • Easy to follow recipes • Delicious food

15 EASY RAMEN RECIPES for all seasons EXCLUSIVE: How RAMEN got student into Stanford Display until July 12, 2014 sunset.com

8 BEST PLACES TO EAT RAMEN CROSS COUNTRY

From JAPAN to America: History of Ramen TH

E BEST OF

Sunset’s

test kitchen Sunset pockets spring Ramen 1


your guide to living in the west

2 Ramen spring


Ingredients List Editor’s Welcome

History of Ramen

A Beginner’s Guide to Ramen

Best Restaurants to eat ramen across the country How ramen got a student into Stanford

Spring Ramen Recipes

Ramen for Summer

Ramen Recipes for Fall

Winter Ramen

contents Ramen 1


welcome My first food memory

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ore often than not, food is a common thread in my most talked-about memories—the kitchen a common locale. I’ve come to the realization that my stress can stand still in the kitchen. No deadlines or errands, no worries; just ingredients and an empty palette to create. For me, cooking has always been a lifestyle. Everyday spices and sauces came together at dinner time, as did my family. Eating is such a universally rewarding experience and that I’d assume many people can relate. Memories surround food and vice versa. My first food memory was ramen. My mother is a traditional Japanese housewife and still cooks every day for her family even to her retirement days. In this special issue I’d like to share some of my mother’s golden hand-down recipes that has traveled decades through time and also newly improved and classic recipes of ramen that we’ve gathered from around the world. The process of cooking takes time though, and I believe that where you’ll find meaning is cooking not because you can spare a few minutes, but sparing a few minutes to cook. Unfortunately, time is a luxury nowadays, and convenience is something that’s hard to spare. In this issue, we’ve gathered products that might do the same for your customers. Whether it’s replacing a few steps in a recipe or sparing an extra ten minutes over the stove, the at-home chef can find relief.

STAFF FOR THIS SPECIAL ISSUE EDITOR Danielle Matsuyama-Miller PROJECT COORDINDATOR Laura H. Martin DESIGNER Lettisia Toha FOOD STAFF, SUNSET MAGAZINE Margo True (Editor), Elaine Johnson (Associate Editor), Sara Scheinder (Wine Editor), Angela Brassinga and Stephanie Han (Test Kitchen Managers) FOOD PHOTO EDITORS Susan B. Smith PROOFREADER Pat Tompkins IMAGING E. Spencer Toy OTHER CONTRIBUTORS Keiko Matsuyama, Stephanie Lau, April Cooper, Julia Lee, Jessica Spencer, Adeena Sussman, Amy Traverso, Kate Washington, Molly Watson and Ivy Pope. SUNSET MAGAZINE EDITOR IN-CHIEF Peggy Northrop MANAGING EDITOR Alan J. Phinney CREATIVE DIRECTOR Maili Holiman DEPUTY EDITORS Miranda Cowell, Peter Pan ART DIRECTOR James H. McCann PHOTO DIRECTOR Ivonne Pope SUNSET PUBLISHING CORPORATION 80 Willow Road, Menlo Park, CA 94025; Sunset.com PUBLISHER Brian Gruseke ASSOCIATE PUBLISHER David Rosen VP, MARKETING & BRAND DEVELOPMENT Lily He Ramen (ISSN 0039-5405) is published by Sunset Publishing Corporation, 80 Willow Road, Menlo Park, CA 94025. Sunset is a registered trademark of Sunset Publishing Corporation. Copyright © 2014. No part of this publication may be reproduced in any form or by any means without prior written permission.

Whether or not you’re taking time to cook in the kitchen, I hope you and your customers are making warm and fuzzy memories around food, just like how ramen makes me feel on rainy days.

Happy reading,

Danielle Matsuyama-Miller Editor-in-chief

2 Ramen our welcome

Printed in the U.S.A. All rights reserved.

We’d love to hear from you, send us email! readerletters@sunset.com


of Ramen

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From JAPAN to AMERICA by SOPHIE BRICKMAN

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n Monday evening, the Culinary Historians of New York gathered on Manhattan’s Upper East Side to discuss the political and economic underpinnings of ramen-noodle soup. “Next month’s meeting is called Dethroning the Deceitful Pork Chop, ” a member named Linda Pelaccio reminded the audience of about fifty students, foodies, and septuagenarians from the podium. “But now, Professor George Solt!” Solt, an assistant history professor at New York University, had been hunched over his notes in the first row. He is thirty-five, with closecropped hair and a slightly Snoopy-ish air about him. He rose and took in the room; many in attendance were slurping quietly from small bowls of ramen provided by the Harlem restaurant Jin Ramen. Solt chose to open with a caveat: “First off, I don’t know how to cook ramen or where to get the best ramen,” he said. “I’m approaching this from a historical perspective.” Twelve years ago, Solt, who spent the first decade of his life in Tokyo, before moving to New England, began researching his dissertation at the University of California, San Diego. Entitled “Taking Ramen Seriously: Food, Labor, and Everyday Life in Modern Japan,” it delved into the food production, labor practices, foreign trade, and national identity wrapped up in Japan’s now famous noodle soup. In addition, he also worked closely with locals. He has published other noodle-related academic writings, including an article in the International Journal of Asia-Pacific Studies, “Shifting Perceptions of Instant Ramen in Japan during the High-Growth Era, circa 1958-1973.” But his most accessible piece of work on the topic 4 Ramen history

is a book borne of his doctoral dissertation, “The Untold History of Ramen: How Political Crisis in Japan Spawned a Global Food Craze,” which was published in February. His talk traced ramen from its origins, as a distinctly Chinese soup that arrived in Japan with Chinese tradesmen in the nineteenth century, through the American occupation after the war, to the proliferation of instant ramen in Japan in the seventies; the national frenzy in the eighties and nineties that gave birth to ramen celebrities, ramen museums, and ramen video games; and, finally, America’s embrace of ramen and Japanese culture today, as exhibited by the cultlike craze surrounding the sixteen-dollar bowls of ramen served by the celebrity chef David Chang. “Ramen is one of the most minutely documented foods in Japan,” Solt writes. A number of geopolitical and economic factors—the reindustrialization of Japan’s workforce during the Cold War, the redefining of national identity during twenty years of economic stagnation—all combined to elevate ramen from working-class sustenance to a dish that is internationally recognized, beloved, and iconic. His research involved reading everything from ramen graphic novels to government documents produced during the U.S. occupation. In what Solt describes as an “Aha!” moment, he discovered that when the U.S. occupied Japan it imported wheat as a way to contain Communism. “The more Japan experienced food shortages, the more people would gravitate towards the Communist Party,” he said. By providing the wheat needed to make ramen noodles, America won the Cold War, sort of.


The crowd listened, mostly rapt, as Solt showed photos of Japan’s ramen museum (not to be confused with its instant-ramen museum), which opened in 1994 and cost thirty-eight million dollars. “The ‘sun’ sets indoors every fifteen minutes because it’s supposed to make you hungry,” Solt said. He also showed the first packaged instant Chikin ramen, from Nissin Foods Corporation, which hit shelves in 1958. The first Cup O’ Noodles came to America in 1973, Solt said, and, as he showed a photo of the hut where Nissin’s founder, Momofuku Ando, allegedly invented the dish, he noted, with gravity, that Ando’s innovation had to do “both with Styrofoam and the fact that more noodles were concentrated at the top, so it cooked evenly.” In Japan, the dish was embraced widely as a practical emergency food after a live television broadcast of a hostage standoff, seen by almost ninety per cent of television viewers, showed policemen eating cupped ramen in sub-zero temperatures as they waited for the hostage to be released. Bento boxes and onigiri, their usual forms of sustenance, would have frozen solid. Instant, cupped ramen, to this day, remains a ubiquitous food in times of natural disaster. After the talk, Solt opened the floor to questions. One woman wanted to better understand the alkalinity of the ramen noodle, and the historical and political importance inherent in the noodle itself. Another audience member raised her hand. “I’ve heard that someone in Los Angeles, or New York, is making a ramen that is curly,” she said. Long beat. “Is that O.K.?” Solt nodded thoughtfully, then said, “I think so.” He stayed an additional fifteen minutes after the evening officially wound down, speaking with a long line of ramen fans. Afterward, on the way to the nearby Naruto Ramen, on

Third Avenue, Solt was aglow. “So many people showed up!” he said, revealing how lonely a decade of ramen research can be. Perusing the menu at the crowded bar, as woks sizzled and smoked behind the counter, he elaborated on America’s love of the dish. “Sushi became the representative food of Japan in the nineteen-eighties abroad, when Japan was a major business competitor to the U.S.,” he said. “The whole embrace of Japanese popular culture in the last ten years is because Japan is no longer an economic threat. That image got transposed to China. It used to be Japan’s burden.” Over a bowl of shio (salt) ramen, Solt spoke about moving beyond noodles. He’s now researching the first authentic Indian curry in Japan, a dish markedly different from the sludge-like, bland curried rice introduced by the British Navy during the Meiji era. The spicier version came to Japan in the early twentieth century, largely owing to a revolutionary from British India, who fled to Japan after trying to kill a British viceroy. There, Japanese ultra-nationalists sheltered him as he developed an Indian curry recipe in the back kitchen of a Shinjuku bakery. “Now, that’s a great story!” Solt said, finishing the last of his ramen. “But, actually, I don’t want to keep doing food. After curry, I don’t know what else there is. Soba? There’s a limit to how long you can do this kind of stuff and take yourself seriously.”

Read George Solt’s book The Untold History of Ramen: How Political Crisis in Japan Spawned a Global Food Craze. Now available at your nearest bookstores.

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Ramen

your basic

infographics

KEEP IT DOWN

In Japanese ramen shops, talking is forbidden while eating a bowl of ramen. pork bones TONKOTSU

soy SHOYU sauce

EAT FAST

Ramen noodles continue to cook in the hot broth they are served in, nobody wants over-cooked ramen!

RAMEN

SHIO

salt

MISO

miso

SLURP LOUDLY

To avoid burning yourself, slurping simultaneously cools the noodles while jetting them down your throat.

There are four well-known ramen styles. Each style is distinguished by their seasonings. In the US, you can find these four types of ramen easily. In Japan, there is speciality style for each region. For example, Hokkaido and Tokyo Ramen.

CALORIES

700

PAIR WITH BEER

Asian lagers pair well with ramen. The bubbles and dry flavor cut through the fat and spice of the ramenbroth. 6 Ramen spring

600

McD’s Big Mac Taco Bell Fries Crunch

500 400

McChicken

300 200

Ramen

Ramen gives the same fullness yet it’s much healthier and low in calories.


Components of

There are many different ramen recipes available in the world. Cooking a delicious bowl of ramen isn’t very easy if you’re making it from scratch. Recipes vary in terms of broth, soup flavors, noodle texture, and toppings. Ramen noodles are made from four basic ingredients: kansui, wheat flour, salt, and water. You can find various kind of ready to use Japanese noodles from any Asian stores near you.

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The Meat. Toppings can vary from simple vegetables and seasonings to far more complex meats and sauces that must be prepared separately and in advance. The most widely used meat choice for ramen would be chashu pork (braised pork belly) although there are other types of meat like chicken, pork shoulder, seafood, bacon, ground meat, shredded pork or kamaboko.

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The Vegetables. No bowl of ramen is complete without a fresh vegetables. Options range from scallion, corn, wood ear mushroom, cabbage, bean sprouts, enoki, fresh garlic, spinach to stir-fried vegetables such as carrots and onions. You can different kinds of seaweed such as nori (dried) and wakame (silky and wet). Also, the party would not be complete without pickled ginger shards.

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The Noodles. Whether straight, thin, and narrow, thick and wavy, or wide and flat, ramen-style noodles are made with wheat flour, salt, water, and kansui, an alkaline water which gives the noodles their characteristic bounce and their yellowish hue. While highend ramen shops would make their own fresh noodles, homecooks like us have options like dried and instant noodles.

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The Broths. You often see ramen categorized into four classes: shio (salt), shoyu (soy sauce), miso (fermented bean paste), and tonkotsu (pork). They are seasonings for the ramen. The broth itself is made with animal bones, seafood or dried kelp simmered with aromatics for hours to create your favorite level of broth heaviness. There’s dry ramen too!

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The Egg. Eggs and ramen go hand in hand. It’s hard to imagine one without the other. There are boiled eggs, ajitsuke tamago, and onsen tamago (soft-boiled egg). The egg on above picture is ajitsuke tamago, a soft boiled egg which has been marinated for several hours in a soy sauce and mirin solution. They come out lightly salty and sweet with a golden, liquid yolk.

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BEST PLACES TO EAt ramen IN AMERICA Ramen used to cost 10 cents. Now it costs a trained crew of culinary professionals several days of their lives watching broth boil. Like a pot of pork bones, ramen’s popularity has been simmering for a long time, but it wasn’t until recently that ramen-ya restaurants really took off in America. Now nearly every city has legions of hungry slurpers who will happily wait an hour in line for a steaming bowl of tonkotsu topped with pork belly, poached egg, and nearly every ingredient under the Rising Sun. In order to spotlight the most creative noodle cooks in the country, we’ve compiled America’s 8 most savory ramen spots.

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TSUKUSHINBO Seattle, WA What you’re getting: Oldschool shoyu ramen. The broth of their old-school shoyu ramen takes four days to make, so they can only cook enough to feed a few dozen hungry fanatics on Friday afternoons. Wash it down with a side of crispy gyoza dumplings.

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IVAN’S RAMEN New York, NY What you’re getting: Chicken and dashi broth shio ramen. The broth leans more Japanese than most, using a double-broth technique with two separate stocks to create a flavor as complex as tonkotsu, but far lighter. Rye noodles further distinguish him from the pack. If you want to go experimental, try the four-cheese mazemen. TATSU RAMEN Los Angeles, CA What you’re getting: Naked Ramen. The dry ramen beats all odds and become LA’s favorite. It uses a curly ramen noodle that comes topped with your choice of protein, an egg, scallions and a sesame oil sauce that is equal parts sweet and mildly spicy. Acidity from the squirt of lime ties the whole thing together.

MOTO-I Minneapolis, MN What you’re getting: Brothless abura ramen. Moto-i’s brothless abura ramen is a treasure. Chili oil, ponzu, and bonito flakes lubricate the noodles and smoked pork shoulder adds the girth. You’ll be happy you skipped the water weight thanks to the wide selection of house-brewed sake. TIGER’S DEN Houston, TX What you’re getting: Garlic black bean ramen. Tiger Den is making waves for a style of ramen most commonly seen in the Southwestern city of Fukuoka. The housemade noodles are thinner, firmer, and straighter than most. You won’t be able to find their garlic-bombed black bean flavor anywhere else.

TOTTO New York, NY What you’re getting: Totto spicy ramen. The chicken stock of their original paitan ramen is souped-up with spicy sesame oil that exponentially increases the umami. For competitive eaters, they’ve also got a mega-bowl loaded to the brim with pork. If the original shop is full, try their second location nearby. TSUJITA ANNEX Los Angeles, CA What you’re getting: Tsukemen. This LA-based shop consistently takes top honors in local polls for its housemade curly noodles and an exciting atmosphere. The move is the tsukemen, a bowl of fresh noodles accompanied by a concentrated dose of broth that will make your eyes roll back in your head.

BIWA Portland, OR What you’re getting: House hybrid ramen broth with smoked pork shoulder. It’s easy to look past Biwa with Portland’s wealth of ramen options. And also because they don’t have a sign. The hybrid pork/ chicken/tare broth is a solid defense against Portland’s relentlessly grey climate. best places Ramen 9


real-life story

exclusive: Francis Wang’s journey to stanford with ramen prestigious Hong Kong No. 1 International High School, wrote. The discovery led to his quest to taste “nearly all flavors of noodles from Asian brands.” The heartfelt letter landed him a spot at the Stanford University’s Class of 2018. Soon after, Wang posted an except from his acceptance letter; keep in mind, the university asks applicants to “prize clarity and honesty above rhetorical flourishes”: “Our emphasis on freedom makes us unlike other colleges, so the committee and I reviewed your application for much more than grades and scores. I’m glad to know you’re ready to embrace your independence, delve deeper into your interests, and study what you love. You have traits that every Stanford student has. Each Stanford student makes a critical, personal contribution to campus from day one. The counselors recommended that you be admitted in part after reading about your enthusiasm for Ramen noodles. The committee and I are confident you will both stand out and grow stronger as part of the Stanford family.” Amelia: What was your thoughts when you got the acceptance letter? Francis: I was utterly shock and thought that it was my sister’s pranking me. She isa graphic designer and she has fooled me before with fake letters. But when I realized that it was legit, I was overjoyed. Amelia: Why did you write the essay?

Meet Francis Wang Jian Yu, a high school student from Hong Kong whose inspiring essay about ramen managed to get him into the prestigious Stanford University. Amelia Johnson scored an exclusive interview with Wang and first hand recount of his one of a kind inspiring story.

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ewsflash: Your college essay on how summer camp was your first taste of independence or why volunteering made you a better person did not make you a snowflake. An essay on your unapologetic love for ramen, however, will earn you a double take. But, sometimes, that’s all you need. A high school student from Hong Kong, in the Hong Kong province of China, crafted his college application letter into a compelling story about the turn of events that led to his adoration for instant ramen. “I tried the noodles during my trip to the country, and my whole worldview changed the moment I ate it,” Wang, a senior at a 10 Ramen spring

Francis: I applied for several universities in the US like Stanford, Columbia, NYC and USC, and I wrote the essay as part of my admission package to some universities. Since I’m in senior year I have to start thinking on what’s next for me. I seriously did not think that they would accept me with the help of that paper. Congratulations, Francis! From what we’ve heard Wang was offered a spot at University of Rochester, Boston University, Columbia and Princeton Unverisity as well. Luckily for you, your college experience will be filled with more instant ramen than you’ve ever dreamed of. We here at Sunset wish you a prosperous and fruitful journey to achieve your dream.

Francis Wang is now a journalism major freshman at NYU


SPRING

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chicken tsukune spring ramen serves 2 600 cal / servings For this recipe, we custom ordered a thin, straight noodle that’s perfect for slurping. It’s also specially designed to complement the flavors of our rich broth and tender chicken meatballs. You can get readyto-use Sun Noodles found in grocery stores near you. INGREDIENTS 1 Lemon 3 Cloves Garlic 2 Scallions 2 Bunches Savoy Spinach 1 1-Inch Piece Ginger 3 Ounces Shiitake Mushrooms 10 Ounces Ground Chicken ¼ Cup Panko Breadcrumbs 3 Tablespoons Chicken stock 2 Tablespoons Soy Sauce 12 Ounces Fresh Ramen Noodles 1 Teaspoon White Sesame Seeds

2. Make the meatballs In a medium bowl, combine the ground chicken and panko breadcrumbs. Season with salt and pepper and mix to thoroughly incorporate. Using wet hands, roll the mixture into about 18 to 20 small meatballs (about the size of a gumball).

1. Prepare the ingredients Wash and dry the fresh produce. Heat a medium pot of salted water to boiling on high. Peel and mince the garlic and ginger. Trim off and discard the root ends of the spinach then quarter the heads lengthwise. Remove and discard the roots of the scallions; thinly slice the scallions on an angle, separating the white bottoms and green tops. Using a peeler, remove the yellow rind of the lemon; mince the rind to get 2 teaspoons of zest. Quarter the lemon and remove the seeds. Cut off and discard the stems of the mushrooms; thinly slice the caps. 12 Ramen spring

cook, stirring occasionally, 7 to 9 minutes, or until browned and cooked through. (You can test the doneness of your meatballs by removing one and cutting it in half.) Transfer the cooked meatballs to a plate, leaving any drippings in the pot. Set the meatballs aside in a warm place as you continue cooking.

3. Cook the meatballs In a medium pot, heat 2 teaspoons of oil on medium until hot. Add the meatballs and

4. Start the broth In the same pot, heat the reserved chicken drippings and 2 teaspoons of oil on medium until hot. Add the ginger, garlic and white parts of the scallions and cook, stirring frequently, 30 seconds to 1 minute, or until softened and fragrant.

5. Finish the broth Stir the chicken demi-glace, soy sauce, mushrooms, lemon zest, the juice of 3 lemon wedges and 4 cups of water into the pot of softened vegetables. Increase the heat to mediumhigh and bring the mixture to

a boil. Once boiling, reduce the heat to medium-low and simmer 8 to 10 minutes, or until the flavors have melded. Turn off the heat and season with salt and pepper to taste.

6. Cook the noodles Add the ramen noodles to the pot of salted, boiling water, gently stirring to separate the noodles. Cook for 90 seconds, or until just tender. Drain thoroughly and rinse under warm water. Divide the cooked noodles and broth between 2 bowls. Toss the spinach with the juice of the remaining lemon wedge and season with salt and pepper. Top each bowl with the meatballs, dressed spinach, sesame seeds and green parts of the scallions.

Tips: To make it versatile and if you want to enjoy the noodles dry, simply omit cooking the broth and eat it with teriyaki sauce.


spring vegetables ramen serves 2 500 cal / servings Garlic cloves we use to add pungent flavor to our dishes are just part of an entire plant. We want you to taste more! In this recipe, we’ve included garlic scapes, the long, thin, green, stalks of the vegetable, which are full of garlicky flavor, but without the sharpness of raw cloves. They provide a delicate, savory touch to this delicious bowl of gourmet ramen.

INGREDIENTS 5 Ounces English Peas 4 Ounces Shiitake Mushrooms 2 Farm Eggs 2 Garlic Scapes 2 Scallions 1 1-Inch Piece Ginger 1 Lemon 1 Sheet Nori 3 Tablespoons vegetable stock 2 Tablespoons Soy Sauce 12 Ounces Fresh Ramen Noodles 2 Ounces Arugula

1. Prepare the ingredients Wash and dry the produce. Remove the eggs from the refrigerator to bring to room temperature. Heat a medium pot of salted water to boiling on high. Shell the peas. Cut off and discard the mushroom stems, then thinly slice the caps. Thinly slice the garlic scapes on an angle. Remove the roots of the scallions; thinly slice the scallions, separating the white bottoms and green tops. Peel

and mince the ginger. Using a peeler, remove the yellow rind of the lemon, avoiding the white pith, mince the rind to get 2 teaspoons of zest. Quarter the lemon and remove the seeds. Using a knife or scissors, cut the nori into strips.

2. Cook the eggs Once the water is boiling, add the eggs and cook for exactly 7 minutes. Drain thoroughly and rinse under cold water for 30 seconds to 1 minute stop the cooking process. Carefully peel the eggs and cut each in half lengthwise. Set aside. Rinse out the pot. Refill the pot with water and add a big pinch of salt; heat to boiling on high.

Cook, stirring frequently, 1 to 2 minutes, or until softened.

4. Add the liquids Stir the vegetable demi-glace, soy sauce, mushrooms, lemon zest, the juice of 3 lemon wedges and 4 cups of water into the pot of softened vegetables. Increase the heat to medium-high and bring the mixture to a boil. Once boiling, reduce the heat to medium-low and simmer 8 to 10 minutes, or until well combined. Remove from heat, stir in the peas and season with salt and pepper to taste. Set aside in a warm place as you continue cooking.

5. Cook the noodles 3. Start the soup While the eggs cook, in a separate, medium pot, heat 2 teaspoons of oil on medium until hot. Add the garlic scapes, ginger and white parts of the scallions and season with salt and pepper.

Add the ramen noodles to the pot of boiling, salted water, stirring gently to separate the noodles, and cook for exactly 90 seconds. Drain thoroughly and rinse under warm water. Divide the noodles between 2 bowls.

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TSUKEMEN serves 2 500 cal / servings

When the weather is getting colder and the last of ice melts away, we kept our coats away, start shopping for thinner clothes and getting ready to eat tsukemen. Tsukemen means “dipping noodles” and cold noodles are served separately with hot dipping soup and toppings on the side. But you can always make the soup cold and easily creates a dish perfect for Summer. INGREDIENTS 2 packages ramen noodles ½ lb. sliced pork belly ½ inch ginger 3 garlic cloves 2 scallions 2 shiitake mushrooms ½ shimeji mushrooms 1 Tbsp. sesame oil 1 Tbsp. Chili Bean Paste 14 Ramen spring

(Doubanjiang)/Spicy Chili Bean Paste 1 package Katsuobushi (dried bonito flakes) ⅓ cup (100 ml) Mentsuyu 1 cup (300 ml) water 1½ Tbsp. rice vinegar A few slices of narutomaki 1 tsp. miso 1 tsp. soy sauce 6 shrimps 1 Tbsp sake 2 hard boiled eggs 1 package nori

1. Prepare the ingredients Cut the meat into 1 inch pieces. Mince the ginger and garlic. Discard the bottom of shimeji and shiitake mushrooms and slice shiitake mushrooms. Finely chop scallions. Remove the shell and devein shrimps.

2. Cook the meat In a medium saucepan, heat sesame oil over medium high heat and add ginger and garlic when oil is hot. Mince the ginger and garlic. When

fragrant, add (spicy) chili bean paste (Doubanjiang) and stir constantly so it won’t burn. Add the meat and cook until it’s no longer pink then add the shiitake and shimeji mushrooms and cook until wilted.

3. Start the soup Add Menetsuyu and water and bring to a boil. Using fine seive, skim off the fat and scum if necessary. Lower the heat to medium low and add miso and soy sauce in the soup and simmer for 5 minutes. Add the chopped green onions and rice vinegar. Turn off the heat and set aside.

4. Prepare the toppings In a small saucepan, bring water to a boil. Add 1 Tbsp. sake and shrimp. Once the shrimp starts changing color, turn off the heat and cover to let the remaining heat cook the shrimp (so you won’t overcook the shrimp). Drain and set aside.

5. Cook the noodles When all the toppings are ready, bring a big pot of water to a boil and cook the noodles. Make sure to separate each noodles when you drop them into the boiling water. Cook according to the package instructions, but keep the noodles al dente. Drain the water and rinse the noodles to remove starch. Soak the noodles into a bowl of ice water to cool. Drain completely and divide the noodles on plates/bowls. Serve all the toppings on the noodles or on a separate plate. Pour the hot soup in a bowl. Serve the cold noodles, toppings, and soup and sprinkle katsuobushi in the soup right before eating. Enjoy!

Tips: If you cannot find fresh ramen noodles, use udon noodles instead. They go well with this tsukemen soup as well!


SUMMER

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cold cucumber soba serves 2 570 cal / servings We’ve been loving cold soba lately, it’s so perfect to ease the hot weather. In this version, cucumbers are sliced into nearly the same shape as the soba. It’s a great light option for summer because it’s as filling as a bowl full of noodles, with half as many actual noodles. You would never see avocado with soba in Kyoto, but, well, we’re not there right now. INGREDIENTS 4-6 ounces soba noodles 1-2 tablespoons toasted sesame oil 2 large cucumbers (or 1 large seedless cucumber) 1/4 cup chopped scallions 1 tablespoon tamari or soy sauce 2 tablespoons rice vinegar 1-2 tablespoons ponzu sauce (or extra tamari & rice vin with a squeeze of lime) sesame seeds avocado slices

1. Prepare the ingredients Wash and dry the fresh produce. Heat a medium pot of salted water to boiling on high. Cut the avocadoes into equal pieces and then thinly slice the scallions. Thinly slice the cucumbers using a julienne peeler. (you could also use a mandolin or veggie spiraler). Discard the first peel (it will be all skin) and carefully make your slices around the seeded part in the middle.

cold cucumber soba of cold ice water, then drain. Return them to the (empty) bowl and gently toss with a splash of sesame oil so they won’t stick together while you finish everything else.

3. Prepare your plate Toss the cucumber slices and scallions with the soba noodles. And tamari, rice vinegar, and ponzu and toss again. Taste and adjust seasonings. Top with sliced avocado and sesame seeds. Serve cold.

japanese cold noodle salad serves 4 640 cal / servings In Japan, where ingredients, colors, and even the temperature of a dish change with the seasons, the hot sticky months of summer bring with them a whole host of seasonal dishes. Chilled dishes replace steamy hotpots and there’s a good chance you’ll find a cold preparation to help ease the oppressive heat. Almost every ramen shops in Japan will have hiyasi chuka.

2. Cook the noodles

INGREDIENTS

Boil the soba noodles in salty water until al dente. Blanch them for 30 seconds in a bowl

2 scallions (finely shredded) 1/2 cup seedless cucumber (julliened)

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1/2 cup crab or ham 3 tbsps sesame oil 1 tsp garlic 1 tsp ginger 1/4 tsp ground cumin 3 tbsps rice vinegar 2 tbsps soy sauce 2 tbsps toasted sesame seeds 1 tbsp sugar 2 eggs 1 tbsp mirin 1/2 tsp sugar 1/4 tsp kosher salt 1/4 tsp dashi (powder, optional) 1/2 ramen noodles

1. Prepare the ingredients Bring a large pot of water to a boil. To make the sauce, put the toasted sesame seeds into a blender and blend until it looks like wet sand. Add the water, soy sauce, tahini, rice vinegar, sesame oil, sugar, salt and chili sesame oil (optional). Blend until combined. Slice the cucumbers into thin slices diagonally and then lay the slices flat, cutting them into matchsticks. Core the tomato


and slice it into wedges. Shred each crab stick into 3 strips. spiraler). Discard the first peel (it will be all skin) and carefully make your slices around the seeded part in the middle. Whisk the egg, 1/4 teaspoon of sugar and 1/16 teaspoon of salt together until the white and yolk are evenly combined.

3. Cook the noodles 2. Cook the eggs Spread a light coating of oil onto a 10� non-stick pan over medium heat. When the pan is hot, add half the egg and swirl around to evenly coat the pan. When the edges of the egg have started to dry out, flip the crepe over and cook for a few seconds before turning it out onto a cutting board. Repeat with the rest of the egg. Stack two sheets of egg on top of each other and then roll them up. Slice the roll into thin ribbons.

Boil the ramen for 1 minute less than the directions say. Drain and then add the noodles to a bowl of cold water, using your fingers to break up the clumps and ensure the noodles are fully chilled. Drain the noodles well and then plate.

4. Prepare your plate Pour some of the sauce on the noodles and then top with the cucumbers, crab, egg, and tomatoes. Serve with extra sauce and chili sesame oil on the side. Also, adding sesame seeds will give it crunch.

lobster soba salad serves 4 280 cal / servings What better to delight in other than exquisite seafood produce this Summer? We decided to dress soba noodle with plump juicy lobster and the result is just fabulously delicious. INGREDIENTS 1 tbsp sesame seeds (lightly toasted) 6 ozs soba noodles 1 tbsp vegetable oil 12 ozs lobster meat (steamed, sliced into medallions 2 spiny lobster tails) 4 ozs cucumber (seeded and julienned about 1 12 cups) 1 red bell pepper (julienned about 1 cup) 3 scallions (julienned 12 cup)

1 cup Sesame Soy Dressing Sesame Soy Dressing 6 sprigs fresh mint (picked) 6 sprigs fresh cilantro (picked)

1. Prepare the ingredients Place the sesame seeds in a small skillet over medium heat, and toast until fragrant and golden, about 1 minute. Transfer to a small bowl; set aside.

2. Prepare the noodles Prepare an ice water bath; set aside. Bring a large pot of water to a boil. Add soba noodles, and cook until al dente according to package directions. Drain, and transfer to ice bath. Drain again, and place in a medium bowl. Drizzle with oil, tossing to lightly coat.

3. Prepare your plate Add lobster, cucumber, red pepper, scallions, dressing, sesame seeds, and herbs. Toss gently to combine. For a fresher taste, add julienned mangoes before you serve. summer Ramen 17


maitake mushroom soba in soy broth serves 4 390 cal / servings INGREDIENTS garlic cloves (peeled, crushed) 1 ginger reduced sodium soy sauce wakame (dried, optional) vegetable oil maitake mushrooms ground black pepper kosher salt soba (Japanese-style noodles) turnips (baby, or radishes, trimmed, thinly sliced) large egg yolks scallions (thinly sliced) toasted sesame seeds 6 sprigs fresh mint (picked) 6 sprigs fresh cilantro (picked) Bring garlic, ginger, and 4 cups water to a boil in a small saucepan; reduce heat and simmer 10 minutes. Add soy sauce and wakame, if using. Set broth aside. Refrigirate the broth right away. Heat oil in a large skillet over medium-high heat. Add mushrooms; season with salt and pepper. Cook, tossing occasionally, until golden brown and crisp, 10–12 minutes. Transfer to a large plate. Meanwhile, cook soba in a large pot of boiling salted water, stirring occasionally, until al dente; drain. Return reserved broth to a simmer. Take out broth from fridge. Divide soba and broth among bowls; top with mushrooms, turnips, and egg yolks. Add scallions and sprinkle with sesame seeds. 18 Ramen summer


AUTUMN

spring Ramen 19


miso ramen serves 4 600 cal / servings As strong wind approaches it’s time to protect ourselves in warm jackets and salty, hot broth. Miso ramen is easy and it doesn’t require any meat but if you want go ahead and add those tofus or boiled chicken. Miso is just perfect for Autumn. The dish is pretty light and can be eaten for both lunch and dinner. Definitely great for maintaining your shape. INGREDIENTS 4 eggs 10 ozs ramen noodles (dried) 1/2 cup bamboo shoots (fresh or canned, sliced) 1/2 cup corn kernels (fresh or canned, drained) 1/3 cup fresh spinach (or defrosted frozen) 8 cups vegetable broth (store-bought or homemade pork) 2 tsps dashi (instant, granules) 1 tbsp soy sauce (or to taste) 4 tbsps miso paste (fresh) 1 cup beansprouts (fresh) 1 stalk green onions (scallions, finely chopped) 4 tsps chili oil (optional) Place the whole, un-cracked eggs in a medium pot and fill with water to cover eggs by 1 inch (2.5 cm). Turn the heat to high and when boiling, turn the heat off and let the eggs sit in the hot water for 10 minutes. Promptly use a slotted spoon to remove the eggs and peel the egg under cold running water. Slice each egg in half and season the yolk with salt. Return the same pot of water to a boil. Add the ramen noodles and cook according to package instructions (most ramen noodles only take 3 minutes 20 Ramen autumn

to cook.) Drain and rinse with cold water to stop the cooking. Divide the noodles, hardboiled eggs, bamboo shoots, corn and spinach among 4 large serving bowls. In a large pot, add the stock, instant dashi and soy sauce. Bring to a boil over high heat. Remove from the heat and stir in the miso. Taste the soup and add an additional 1 to 2 tablespoons of miso if you’d like. Ladle soup into each bowl. Top each bowl with fresh bean sprouts, green onions and chili oil.

cabbage ramen salad serves 5 90 cal / servings We can corporate ramen into almost anything. This recipe is

definitely easy to make and filling. Instead of the regular potato salad thats heavy on the dressing, now you have the choice to eat and serve something light and delicious with no regrets after. INGREDIENTS 1 (12-ounce) package rainbow slaw mix (See Recipe Note) 1/4 cup seasoned rice vinegar 2 tablespoons toasted sesame oil 2 tablespoons neutral oil, such as canola or safflower 2 teaspoons honey 1/2 teaspoon kosher salt 1 (3-ounce) package ramen noodles, crushed (discard the seasoning packet) 1/4 cup chow mien noodles 1/4 cup thinly sliced green onions, white and light green parts only 1/4 cup sliced almonds, toasted In a large bowl combine slaw mix, vinegar, sesame oil, neutral

oil, honey, and salt in a bowl and stir to combine. Refrigerate for at least one hour (or overnight) to allow flavors to mingle. Taste and adjust any seasonings as desired. Fold in ramen noodles, chow mein noodles, green onions, and almonds right before serving.


turkey ramen serves 4 1200 cal / servings A delicious salty and savory ramen is perfect for dinner. We have adapted this recipe and while it originally was 1900 in calories per serving, we managed to cut that down by almost fifty percent!

INGREDIENTS 2 chicken carcass 1 turkey 1 lb ham steak (bone-in country, or prosciutto, diced) 1 onion (large, diced) 2 carrots (medium, peeled and diced) 1 radishes (6-inch daikon, peeled and diced)

5 cloves garlic (peeled) 2 inches ginger (peeled & slice) 1 lemon (cut in half) 1 gal water 2 large eggs 2 tbsps red miso 1 tbsp fish sauce 21/2 tsps soy sauce 2 tsps white distilled vinegar 3 dashes hot sauce 12 ozs ramen noodles (from 4 packages ramen soup or thin spaghettini) 10 ozs soft tofu (drained and diced, about 1 1/3 cup total) 6 ozs shiitake (trimmed and thinly sliced) 1 avocado (peeled, pitted, and thinly sliced) 2 scallions (chopped) 1 bunch watercress (fresh, thin stems and leaves only) 2 cups cooked turkey (pulled, or chicken, from the carcass used for stock) 3/4 oz parmesan cheese (freshly grated, about 1/4 cup total) 1 tsp lemon juice (freshly squeezed)

Pull about 2 cups of meat off the turkey carcass and reserve for the soup. Chop the turkey carcass into small fist-size pieces. Transfer to a large pot and add the country ham, onion, carrots, daikon radish, garlic, ginger, and lemon halves. Add enough water to cover the ingredients by 1 inch and bring to a boil, skimming off any foam that rises to the top.

Fill a medium bowl with cold water. Bring a small saucepan of water to a boil. Using a slotted spoon, gently lower the eggs into the boiling water. Cook the eggs for 7 minutes. Using a slotted spoon, transfer the eggs to the bowl of cold water. Once the eggs are cool enough to handle carefully peel the eggs then cut them in half and set aside.

Lower the heat to moderately low and let the stock simmer, adjusting the heat as necessary to maintain a very gentle simmer, until richly aromatic, about four hours. Let the stock cool slightly then pour into a large bowl with the help of mesh strainer, discarding solids.

While the eggs are boiling, in a large pot, bring 8 cups of the turkey stock to a boil. Add the miso, fish sauce, soy sauce, vinegar, and hot sauce and stir to combine. Add the ramen noodles, discarding the flavor packet if using packaged ramen soup, and boil until tender but still firm, about 3 minutes.

DO AHEAD: The turkey stock can be prepared ahead and kept, covered in the refrigerator, up to 4 days, or frozen, in an airtight container, up to 3 months. Make sure to sieve broth before storing.

Divide the ramen noodles and broth evenly into 4 bowls. Into each bowl, evenly divide the tofu, mushrooms, avocado, scallions, watercress, turkey, and soft-boiled egg halves. autumn Ramen 21


ramen burger serves 4 270 cal / servings It’s a classic east meets west. You love ramen and your partner love burger? Why not combine the two! Sure, it’s fabulous, delicious and stylish. It’s been a food trend for quite a while now and we figured what better food to eat while watching the leaves fall? INGREDIENTS 2 (3 ounce) packages instant ramen noodles, flavor packet discarded 2 large eggs salt and ground black pepper to taste 3/4 pound lean ground beef 1 tablespoon soy sauce 1 teaspoon sesame oil

22 Ramen autumn

3 tablespoons vegetable oil, divided 3 slices American cheese 1/4 cup ketchup 2 tablespoons chile-garlic sauce (such as Sriracha) 1 1/2 cups arugula 3 large eggs

1. Prepare the noodles Bring a pot of water to a boil and add ramen noodles. Boil, stirring occasionally, until noodles are tender, about 3 minutes. Drain. Allow noodles to cool slightly. Beat 2 eggs in a bowl; season with salt and pepper. Stir noodles into eggs until evenly coated. Divide noodles into 6 burgersize ramekins. Place a sheet of plastic wrap directly over noodles and stack another bowl on top to flatten noodles. Refrigerate until firm, about 20 minutes.

2. Prepare the patty Mix beef, soy sauce, and sesame oil in a bowl. Divide beef mixture

into three equal portions and shape into patties. Tap on the meat mixture to let the air out. Heat about 1 tablespoon oil in a large skillet over medium-high heat. Invert each ramen bowl, gently tapping the bottom of the bowl until ramen loosens, careful to maintain bun shape.

3. Fry them! Fry each ramen bun, without moving noodles, in hot oil until golden brown, about 3 minutes. Flip each bun and continue frying until crisp, 3 to 5 minutes. Ramen bun should be crispy on one side and slightly softer on the other. Transfer buns to large plate with the crispy side up. Heat about 1 tablespoon vegetable oil in the same skillet used to fry ramen over medium heat. Cook beef patties until burgers are lightly pink in the center, 3 to 5 minute per side. An instant-read thermometer

inserted into the center should read 140 degrees F (60 degrees C). Arrange a slice of American cheese over each burger and continue to cook until melted, about 1 minute more.

4. For toppings Mix ketchup and chile-garlic sauce in a small bowl; spread mixture over the crispy side of each ramen bun. Divide arugula over 3 ramen buns. Place burgers over arugula. Heat about 1 teaspoon oil in a small skillet over medium-high heat; fry remaining eggs one at a time, adding more oil as needed or until yolk is almost firm, about 1 minutes per side. Place egg over patty and top with remaining bun.

Tips: For juicier and more flavorful meat patty, combine ground pork with beef with 1:3 (one to three) ratio or add breadcrumbs with milk into the meat mixture.


WINTER

spring Ramen 23


PORK RAMEN serves 4 400 cal / servings

For a ramen cook newbie, making pork based ramen is intimidating. You would remember delicious tonkotsu broth that’s so rich and delicious and wonder if you can ever replicate them. Well, cast your worries aside! Here is pork ramen simplified. We tried it ourselves and it’s easy to make, easy cleaning too and more importantly, you will not feel bad after eating it. INGREDIENTS 1 tbsp canola oil 2 boneless chop pork (1/2 inch thick; about 1/2 pound total) kosher salt black pepper 8 scallions (sliced, white and green parts separated) 1 piece fresh ginger (peeled and sliced) 6 cups low sodium chicken broth 1 tbsp white wine (or mirin) 6 ozs ramen noodles 1 tbsp soy sauce 2 tsps rice vinegar 1 carrots (large, grated) 2 radishes (thinly sliced) 1/2 cup coriander leaf (fresh)

1. Prepare the pork Rub both sides of pork with generous amount of salt and pepper. You can do this hours or a day before and let it sit on the fridge to marinate. Heat a Dutch oven over medium heat for 5 minutes. Add the oil and begin dropping the pork loins in, cook about 4 minutes per side. Place on a plate, cover with foil, and let rest for 5 minutes before slicing.

2. Cook the broth Tun the heat to low and add the scallion whites and ginger to the drippings in the Dutch oven. Cook, stirring, until softened, 30 seconds to 1 minute. Add the broth and wine and bring to a boil. Add the noodles and 24 Ramen winter

boil, stirring occasionally, until tender, 2 to 3 minutes. Stir in the soy sauce and rice wine vinegar. Pour any juices from the pork that have collected on the plate into the soup. Stir in the soy sauce and rice wine vinegar.

miso shitake ramen with hoisin tofu

Tips:

serves 2 700 cal / servings

To give more flavor to the pork, you can add a subtle amount of Chinese five spice to the rub and then marinate. Cover the pork thightly with plastic wraps.

This vegetarian ramen soup gets its full flavor from several different umami-rich ingredients like mushrooms and miso paste.

A rich broth combined with green vegetables and springy fresh noodles make this dish a comforting, hearty option for a chilly night. INGREDIENTS 6 Ounces Choy Sum (sliced) 2 Cloves Garlic (minced) 2 Scallions (thinly sliced) 1 Package Firm Tofu (cubed) 2 Ounces Shiitake Mushrooms 1 Ounce Enoki Mushrooms


3 Tablespoons Vegetable DemiGlace 2 Tablespoons Soy Sauce 1 Tablespoon Miso Paste ¼ Cup Hoisin Sauce 12 Ounces Fresh Ramen Noodles

1. Start the Soup Heat a couple teaspoons of oil in a pot until hot. Add garlic, choy sum stems and white scallions. Cook until slightly softened and fragrant. Stir in the vegetable demi-glace, 4 cups of water,

beef ramen noodle soup serves 2 600 cal / servings Although we seldom see ramen using beef, in Japan it’s speciality of Yamazaki Perfecture. The result is a yummy and flavorful bowl of food.

shiitake mushrooms, miso and soy sauce. Bring to a boil and reduce to the heat. Simmer the broth for 6 to 8 minutes.

2. Cook the tofu Fry the tofu with one tablespoon of oil until golden brown on each side then turn off the heat and add hoisin sauce. Garnish on top of ramen. Enjoy!

1. Cook the flank steak Season the flank steak with salt and pepper on both sides. In a medium pot, heat 2 teaspoons of olive oil on medium until hot. Cook the steak 3 to 4 minutes per side, or until it reaches your desired degree of doneness. Transfer the steak to a plate, leaving any drippings in the pot. Let the steak rest for at least 5 minutes and cover to keep warm.

2. Sautee the aromatics

INGREDIENTS 9 Ounces Flank Steak 4 Ounces Choy Sum 4 Cloves Garlic 3 Scallions 2 Ounces Enoki Mushrooms 1 1-Inch Piece Ginger 3 Tablespoons Beef Demi-Glace 3 Tablespoons White Miso Paste 2 Tablespoons Soy Sauce ⅛ Cup Hoisin Sauce 12 Ounces Fresh Ramen Noodles

To the pot add 2 teaspoons of olive oil and heat on medium until hot. Add the garlic, ginger and white parts of the scallions, and cook 1 to 2 minutes, or until fragrant and slightly softened, stirring frequently. Add the choy sum and season with salt and pepper. Cook 1 to 3 minutes, or until the choy sum is slightly softened and wilted.

3. Add the seasonings Increase the heat to high. Stir in the enoki mushrooms, beef

demi-glace, miso paste, soy sauce and 4 cups of water. Bring the soup to a boil, then reduce the heat to medium and simmer 4 to 5 minutes to develop the flavors.

4. Slice the flank steak While the soup is boiling, find the lines of muscle (or the grain) of the cooked flank steak and thinly slice the beef against (perpendicular to) the grain. Add any steak juices from the cutting board into the soup. Transfer the sliced steak to a small bowl and toss with the hoisin sauce until very well coated.

5. Cook the noodles Cook and drain noodles according to instructions. Stir the cooked noodles into the soup and remove from heat. To plate your dish, divide the soup and noodles between 2 bowls and lay the coated flank steak on top. Garnish with the green parts of the scallions. For a tastier taste, add dashes of sesame oil. Enjoy!

winter Ramen 25


26 Ramen spring


rich and creamy tonkotsu ramen serves 3 800 cal / servings

water, removing any bits of dark marrow or coagulated blood. Tie meat together using strings.

2. Sautee the aromatics Heat vegetable oil in a medium cast iron or non-stick skillet over high heat until lightly smoking. Add onions, garlic, and ginger. Cook, tossing occasionally until deeply charred on most sides, about 15 minutes total. Set aside.

3. Keep working on broth What better way than to warm up to hot, salty, delicious bowl of tonkotsu ramen? Probably the most popular and of course, our favorite, tonkotsu ramen means ramen made with pork bones. To create the perfect texture and heaviness, the pork bones have to be braised for long hours. In our test kitchen, we can go all day and result varies from hour to hour. Since the broth is a do ahead, it’s up to you on how many hours you want to braise them for. INGREDIENTS 3 lbs pig (trotters, split lengthwise or cut into 1-inch disks) 2 lbs chicken (backs and carcasses, skin and fat removed) 2 tbsps vegetable oil 1 onion (large, roughly chopped) 12 garlic cloves 1 ginger (roughly chopped) 2 whole leeks (washed and roughly chopped) 24 scallions (white parts only, reserve greens parts for garnishing finished soup) 6 ozs mushrooms (whole, or mushroom scraps) 1 lb fresh pork fat (slab, back)

1. Prepare the broth Place pork and chicken bones in a large stockpot and cover with cold water. Place on a burner over high heat and bring to a boil. Remove from heat as soon as boil is reached. Once pot has come to a boil, dump water down the drain. Carefully wash all bones under cold running

Return bones to pot along with charred vegetables, leeks, scallion whites, mushrooms, and pork fatback. Top up with cold water. Bring to a rolling boil over high heat, skimming off any scum that appears. Use a clean sponge or moist paper towels to wipe and black or gray scum off from around the rim of the pot. Reduce heat to a bare simmer and place a heavy lid on top.

4. Time Once the lid is on, check the pot after 15 minutes. It should be at a slow rolling boil. If not, increase or decrease heat slightly to adjust boiling speed. Boil broth until pork fatback is completely tender, about 4 hours. Carefully remove pork fat with a slotted spatula. Transfer fatback to a sealed container and refrigerate. Return lid to pot and continue cooking until broth is opaque with the texture of light cream, about 6 to 8 hours longer, topping up as necessary to keep bones submerged at all times.

5. Cleaning the broth Once broth is ready, cook over high heat until reduced to around 3 quarts. Strain through a fine mesh strainer into a clean pot. Discard solids. For an even cleaner soup, strain again through a chinois or a fine mesh strainer lined with several layers of cheese cloth. Skim liquid fat from top with a ladle and discard. Top your ramen with soup and braised pork fatback and enjoy! winter Ramen 27


rediscover reading. flip with your fingertips

28 Ramen spring


spring Ramen 29


your guide to living in the west

30 Ramen spring


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