Digital Textile Print

LIANA PABERZA

Digital Textile Print DT15int_1I KEA 2016

DNA: 0.__1 [“oh-one”] is a clothing company that focuses on designs in unusual cuts where aesthetic functionality plays an important role. Combined with bright accent prints in fun and eye-catching manner 0.__1 is quaranteed to make the wearer feel extraordinary and fashionably fresh.

Here in 0.__1 our moto is simple: “Be proud of your true self!”

Mission: To create unique, high quality clothing with the spirit of youth, freedom and boldness in mind.

Vision: To become a leader in fashionable street wear with fully sustainable approach in every step of the value chain.

Values: Celebration of youth. Individuality and uniqueness. Comfort and quality. Social and environmental responsibility.

Concept idea: Collection of cotton shirts for fashionable streetwear designed to feel comfortable at the same time.

The collection consists of prints in various sizes and colours, combining photography, graphics and hand drawings in a collage-like style. The prints are not only used in the basis of pattern structure, but also on smaller details such as belts and patches.

Target group: Individuals of opinion and a positive look to life, young at heart but not necessarily at age. 0.__1 is designed to celebrate youth, freedom and expression. Inspired by street culture and digital world, combined with 90’s nostalgia 0.__1 offers the wearer a unique, whimsical look. Designs are mostly targeted to active people who are driven by creativity and highly value strong but well-balanced aesthetics that will quarantee standing out of the crowd.

Sustainablity and CSR As the main goal for 0.__1. is to become a leading streetwear brand with sustainable approach in all steps in the value chain, it is extremely important to build the brand in socially responsible way from the very basis of it.

Speaking of design process 0.__1. is focusing on zero waste production, where the leftover fabric is used in creating smaller details such as belts, loops, patches or pockets. Other, larger amounts of leftover fabric is donated to youth centers and education institutions as an initiative to give the necessary materials for creative work and encouraging people to learn how to work by hands and find joy in creating something by yourself.

Most of the production is based in Eastern Europe where the costs are higher than in Asia, but allows to monitor and do quality checks much easier. This offers lower costs in transportation and lead time is shorter. Also human rights are highly valued and all workers are receiving fair pay.

persona

Triangulation For this design method I chose the theme Youth Tonic from WGSN trend forecast and combined it with the historical period of Soviet Union in the Baltic States. As the third inspiration source I chose race cars and the driver’s suit.

While brainstorming and writing down keywords for the three corners, some interesting characteristics developed, such as the contrasts and ideals between Youth Tonic which resembles rebellion and freedom and the order and strict culture of communism. I also found the correlation between USSR and race cars in usage of colours and graphics.

In selection of pictures for the moodboards the focus was put on not using material found on the internet. Instead, the historical research primarily consisted of photographs taken by my grandfather during the Soviet times in Latvia. This gave a much more personal and realistic touch of depicting the everyday life in this specific time period.

Regarding the Youth Tonic trend by WGSN I chose pictures of young, stylish people from the streets or my own drawings. Inspiration sources come from it-designers at the moment such as Demna Gvasalia and Gosha Rubchinskiy who are challenging the fashion industry by blurring the lines between streetwear and high fashion.

As an initial inspiration for race cars came from a recent visit to industrial area in Copenhagen where I stumbled across old, probably abandoned retro game machines of various sports, uncluding racing games. These photographs are taken my myself. However, pictures of Formula 1, Nascar and drivers wearing the safety suit are found on the internet.

In triangulation method the three dots determine the development guidelines for material, shape, print and colour, from which futher moodboards are distinguished.

Material In this particular case the material is based in-between Youth Tonic and USSR with a slight focus more on the trend instead of historical period. These fabrics are often used by streetwear or athleisure brands and is lightweight, comfortable and in high quality. Mostly woven cotton fabrics in various thicknesses, which was also a widely used fabric in the Soviet era.

Material keywords are: street culture, gender neutral, freedom, sports Shape The shape is inspired by Youth Tonic and the trends seen on both runways and streetstyle. From oversized hoodies to extra long sleeves and exaggerated shoulder line. Shape is also taking inspiration from street culture and young teenagers such as skateboarders. Young underground designers from East Europe like Anton Belinskiy, Subrosa Kiyev, Gosha Rubchinskiy and Yulia Yefimtchuk are all key names representing this emerging trend and is used as a reference for creating the shape.

Shape keywords are: gender neutral, neo-nostalgia, freedom, rebellion.

triangulation

Colour

a:

Colour is widely influenced both from USSR, race cars and driver’s suits. Here is a clear focus on usage of primary colours such as red and blue. More pale tones are also seen mostly in Soviet clothing when we talk about uniform or workwear. The driver’s suit is all about bright, clean tones in combination with core colours such as white, black and grey.

Colour keywords are: uniform, sports, education, colourful

Print The print is influenced by the graphics seen on racing cars and combined with typical sportwear of the Soviet era. Sponsor logos and strong graphic design is the basis of the print. Together with references and elements of vintage photography it creates a nostalgic feel.

Print keywords are: sports, colourful, sponsors, driver’s suit, numbers

b:

a: family archive photos/taken by I.Paberzs b: photos taken by myself

triangulation

Overall moodboard The overall moodboard brings together all three inspiration sources and in a collage-like manner gives a nostalgic, vintage feel. The picture of a girl shows the youth spirit and the simple, comfortable clothing she is wearing. The picture of game machines taken by myself is one of the main sources of inspiration for the colours and print. Picture on the right corner taken by my grandfather in the 70’s shows other key elements such as red flowers which is also a symbol of youth and beauty. The light blue colour is often found in photographs as well and is used as a balancing tone apart from the bright, primary colours. Background picture of a typical Soviet era building is also an inspiration for mild pastels.

Colour moodboard The colours are inspired by Soviet sportswear and bold graphics seen on the racing cars. As the main objects of inspiration is a vintage poster of a formula car. Here the strong primary tones are balanced by a picture of women wearing light blue dresses during the 70’s. In the right bottom corner a picture of my father in his teenager years is showing the Soviet activewear and bright blue colour in combination with white and red. On the upper right corner cutouts of flowers are once again showing the importance of red.

Silhouette and detail moodboard The silhouette is mostly influenced by oversized shapes and details that can manipulate with the shape. On the left side background a picture by Lucy Orta from 1998 shows exaggerated, round shape. On top of it a vintage design by Balenciaga shows a bulky sleeve and on top of this-a contemporary design of extra long sleeve gathered with a band. On the right a picture of Vetements SS’17 show can be seen and gives an impression of comfortable sportswear. On top another detail with a band can be seen but this time placed in a different spot around the arm.

Print moodboard The print is constructed as a collage and the pictures placed on the body gives the feeling of the outcome. On the right a photo of a driver is covered in various logos and graphics. Pictures of game machines are once again used to emphasize the colour variations used in a print. A design by Ximon Lee saying “enjoy” bring out the importance of slogans. Picture in the background shows roses and implements the usage in the print as well. On the left side an illustration by me brakes down the gender division by combining flowers with men and extreme sports. The hand drawing also describes the resulting design where mediums such as illustration, graphic design and photography meet.

triangulation

overall moodboard

colour moodboard

shape & detail moodboard

print moodboard

process/design sketches

Design & Function 0.__1. shirts are designed by keeping an eye for detail that can offer extra function to the specific style.

Belts and straps in fabric are either attached to the neckline as a collar or as seperate pieces which can be worn in various ways. Belt hoops that look more like patches are placed around the wrists or above the elbow. Here the straps can be loosened or gathered tightly to achieve different outcome.

The long collar straps can be worn in countless ways by wrapping them around as a scarf, tying around the waist and arms or just knotted on the back and wearing them loose.

For more detailed view see pictures of final pattern in stout .

process/design sketches

process/print element sketches

print motifs

print experimentation 2D

print experimentation 3D

process/pattern in paper

process/pattern in fabric

final pattern in stout

REF: 101-93 DESCRIPTION: Top Eleven Ski Roses MANUFACTURER: Next KBH FABRICATION: 100% Cotton Twill SIZEBREAK: S/M L/XL

REF: 101-93 DESCRIPTION: Top Eleven Ski Roses MANUFACTURER: Next KBH

CLIENT: 0.__1.

SEASON: SS’18 DELIVERY: 28/10/2016 sheet # 1

CLIENT: 0.__1.

SEASON: SS’18 DELIVERY: 28/10/2016 sheet # 2

FABRICATION: 100% Cotton Twill SIZEBREAK: S/M L/XL

FRONT

NOTE: All inside seams overlock

FRONT

MEASUREMENT CHART BACK

Point of measurement

Measurement in cm

A 1/2 chest - ar armhole B sleeve length from LPS (low point shoulder) C total length CB from HPS (high point shoulder)

57 50,5 43

M_7

techpack

REF: 101-93 DESCRIPTION: Top Eleven Ski Roses MANUFACTURER: Next KBH

REF: 101-93 DESCRIPTION: Top Eleven Ski Roses MANUFACTURER: Next KBH

CLIENT: 0.__1.

SEASON: SS’18 DELIVERY: 28/10/2016 sheet # 3

FABRICATION: 100% Cotton Twill SIZEBREAK: S/M L/XL

4,5cm

X

Y

x4

x2

sheet # 4

FABRICATION: 100% Cotton Twill SIZEBREAK: S/M L/XL BELT LOOPS/PATCHES

BELT LOOPS/PATCHES 3,5cm

CLIENT: 0.__1.

SEASON: SS’18 DELIVERY: 28/10/2016

E

7cm

E

C B

COMMENTS ON PROTO, SIZE S/M

A

B

C

D

FRONTAL VIEW - LEFT SLEEVE

DESCRIPTION: Top with adjustable straps Belt loops/patches (X/Y)

F

Straps (A/B) around wrists (detachable)

F

Strap (C) connected as collar Closure on back

A

D

E h=18cm

FRONTAL VIEW - RIGHT SLEEVE

E F STRAPS

F

C

F A

D

E B

93cm

x2

A

x2

B

x1

C

124cm 190cm

5cm 5cm

NOTE: Strap B comes in a set/ can be used as optional addition worn above the elbow

5cm

FRONT

BACK

techpack

single items/print collection

Artwork - placement print/ all over print (AOP) not actual size Placement print front:

55cm

46cm

Background colour: Pantone Bright White 11-0601TCX

All over print (AOP) one repeat:

techpack 1

artwork 1:1

artwork 1:1

Artwork - placement print/ all over print (AOP) not actual size

sizes in cm:

Placement print back:

A B C

A

65cm B

52cm

cm

C

Background colour: Pantone Bright White 11-0601TCX

All over print (AOP) one repeat:

techpack 2

(S/M) 8 13 10

(L/XL) 10 15 12

artwork 1:1

LIANA PABERZA KEA 2016