11 minute read
A Frozen Riviera
Bogner
A FROZEN RIVIERA
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Characterised by modern silhouettes, tonal outfits, and a look of loose elegance, BOGNER heritage details meet the latest innovations. In the Bogner Luštica Bay store look out for classic polo shirts, down-filled ski jackets and smart layering options for everything from the golf courses to the snowy slopes.
BEYOND HERITAGE
90 years of BOGNER are celebrated with the Anniversary Cross Capsule Collection Frozen Riviera. Frozen Riviera draws inspiration from the pioneering figure of Maria Bogner, the woman who made the mountains chic. Bogner not only adored the Riviera but supplied its leading style icons with their winter wardrobes. Frozen Riviera reimagines those icons, such as Gianni Agnelli and Grace Kelly, in the contemporary winter attire. The capsule explores new volumes, techniques, and materials, keeping an eye out on future and avantgarde trends. A palette of rich blues and off whites is enlivened by gold trim for an extra dash of performance glam. An abstract print pattern, evocative of both waves and slopes, underlines the connection between the Mediterranean and the Alps.
BAVARIAN WOOL CAPSULE
Developed exclusively for BOGNER, the “high performance” wadding made from Bavarian sheep’s wool and technical fibres combines traditional craftsmanship with innovate functionality. The result of the fusion is a collection of trend-setting outdoor and hybrid styles. Sporty nylon and highquality flannel fabrics have been combined and quilted with wave and camouflage patterns inspired by nature.
NATURALLY EXCELLENT
Bavarian Wool is made from the wool of the Merinoland sheep - a breed mainly found in southern and central Germany and the Wurttemberg region, and which accounts for over 30% of the German sheep population. The merino wool used for BOGNER is sourced exclusively from certified, organic, and high-welfare sheep farmers in Bavaria, who guarantee that the animals are kept in a species-appropriate and resource-friendly manner on alpine pastures and meadows free from fertilisers. Merino wool is considered one of the finest and softest wools, ideal for outdoor activities due to its moisture and temperature regulation, breathability, as well as antimicrobial and thus odourless properties. Even when wet, merino wool provides comfortable warmth with an absorption level of up to 30%.
THE WORLD OF ATHLUXURY SINCE 1932
Distinctive highlight styles that reinterpret visionary creations from the archives for the future: Best of BOGNER celebrates the best of 90 years of fashion and sport. Trend-setting silhouettes and surprising colour combinations characterise the unique symbiosis of BOGNER Heritage and modern perspectives. Hit the slopes in the German brand’s elegant skiwear or stroll through the city in their refined puffer jackets, knits, and snow boots.
FUSION OF Modernity and Tradition
A deeper look at Luštica Bay’s blend of traditional and contemporary architecture, with Marija Pantovic, Development Manager
Illustration of urban planning of coastal town in Boka Bay – Gornji Stoliv
The Bay of Kotor and its stone settlements are valuable and unique examples of traditional construction. Stone has been the natural choice for builders in this area for centuries.
It represents a core material which, under the artful hand of the stonemason, can be transformed and traditional shapes can be recreated within contemporary forms and modern architectural designs. This is how we can bring traditional architecture back to life and inject some fresh energy in timeless designs. When it comes to the planning of the coastal towns in upper settlements, the slope of the terrain was the reason behind the urban planning approach, with the construction of many asymmetrical buildings, while in the lower settlements, positioned along the coastal roads, we often encounter a row of stone houses. The houses in this area were typically built facing the ocean.
Delightful Tiles
The roofs of village houses are predominantly double-sloped. Towards the end of the 19th Century, handmade roof tiles took over, and after the tile and brick factory in Krtole opened in 1908, the quality of these roof tiles increased greatly.
A Sign of Success
The majority of the houses in Boka Bay did not have balconies until the urbanistic transformation of the city took place during the baroque era. They were built onto the facades of the houses of wealthy owners such as the owners of ships, wealthy merchants, and even successful mercenaries.
Traditional Beauty
We differentiate between two types of houses typical to this coastal region - single and multiple stories stone houses, with single-story houses found at the core of rural architecture along the Adriatic coast.
Room for All
In the 18th & 19th Century, a large multi-story house consisted of three typical rooms:
The lowest area – “konoba”, was intended to be used by men, the residential section on the upper floor by the whole family, while the loft area would have been occupied by “kužina” - intended solely for women.
Sculptural elements were made of stone, prefabricated in local quarries or those on Brač & Korčula islands. The selection of the stone was guided partly by suitability but also influenced by personal and social prestige, as well as certain mystic beliefs.
Beautiful Wooden Doors
The doors in the traditional architecture of Boka Bay were manufactured using mostly wood, traditionally coloured in green and white. The rich frieze around the doors and windows was a good indication that the occupant residing there was wealthy.
choice for builders in this area for centuries.”
BUILDING ON OUR ROOTS: Harmony Between
THE OLD AND THE NEW
When designing the buildings in Luštica, we observed the nuances of the historic buildings of Kotor, Perast and Herceg Novi and found inspiration in the old-world materials, details, and construction methods. The historical aspects of old stone buildings with their red tile roof formed the artistic reference about our choice of materials, colour selection, and the finer detailing of the architecture.
Every design detail reflects the richness of the Montenegrin heritage, inspired by traditional fishermen’s villages, implemented with the aesthetic functionality of a luxury resort.
The construction of the environment of the development will be carried out in a way that ensures a feeling of harmonious architectural composition between traditional and contemporary styles.
Our design principles are based on the natural character of the site and the context of the localheritage, while its modern twist offers ecofriendly living spaces that resonate with our commitment to nature.
Mediterranean features such as arches, shutters, and pergolas, have created homes integrated within the landscape and the local architectural character, while natural materials such as stone, clay tile, plaster and wood are used in thoughtful ways in order to reflect a more minimalist and streamlined aesthetic.
Throughout Montenegro, buildings seemingly stem out from the earth. The prevalence of rock gave rise to the tradition of stone masonry as a method of construction. The use of traditional stone in cladding and paving conveys a sense of place and history. Local stone is the principal material for façade walls and paving, broadly following traditional building techniques.
We are building a town that is deeply rooted in and connected to the Montenegrin culture; every design detail reflects the richness of Montenegrin heritage and is implemented with careful thought given not to only the aesthetic but the functionality also. Our creative vision is anchored in our master plan - local vernacular duly inspired by traditional materials and old building techniques generating contemporary forms.
WHERE SCULPTURE Meets Fashion Inspired by of the artistry of sculpture, Katarina Zlajić is taking design to the next level and putting the Montenegrin fashion world firmly in the spotlight. Her work is already being exhibited globally and she has caught the attention of Vogue Italia, NOT JUST A LABEL (NJAL) and more.
SHAPING WEARABLE ART
Katarina Zlajić’s relationship with sculpture began when she studied sculpture at the Faculty of Fine Arts in Cetinje. Stepping into the world of fashion, she realized that she could develop her work by conceiving her pieces as artforms. Sharing insights, she explained how she adopts a meticulous creative process – together with quality artistry and selection of material, the shapes and colours I feel and use for original design are also crucial for my outlook on life and aesthetics.
This is a welcomed move away from the disputed global trend of ‘fast fashion’ or ‘Faust fashion’ which involves satisfying the insatiable appetite of the consumer with poor quality disposable fashion. In contrast, Zlajić’s work is far more considered and sustainable. In fact, her works become cherished pieces of art. Each piece is designed meticulously as a sculptural form. Always highly tactile, her work excites and challenges traditional notions of art. This isn’t about the ‘high-brow’ untouchable art exhibited in galleries. Instead, Zlajić’s aim is to bring the beauty of art out onto the streets and to create wearable artwork. Because of the process, my designs stand out, she told us - in my opinion, together with the artistry and selection of materials, the designs are remarkable because they are artforms and easily recognizable in this context, she adds.
Forever inquisitive, Zlajić continually explores her creativity and this manifests itself in stunning collections that include necklaces, rings bags and more. Central to her work is the sense of discovery in the creative process; I constantly like to explore and experiment, learning new and unknown things. I am exploring new shapes and forms because I want to experience something different, she said. Very often in the fashion world, designers are drawn to the idea of a muse who influences their work and careers. Take Herbert de Givenchy and Audrey Hepburn, or Jean Paul Gaultier and Madonna, or Hermès Chairman Jean-Louis Dumas and his muse of Jane Birkin which resulted in the covetable ‘Birkin’ bag. We wondered if Katarina has a muse or considers a certain type of woman when she’s designing her pieces. Her response is as captivating as her pieces as she never focuses on a person or profile during the creative process. Instead, her pieces reflect the essence of the women who choose to wear them - “by wearing jewellery, like everything else we choose, it speaks about us on a deeper level: who we are, how we live, how we feel, whether we sympathize, how we breathe and how subtly we walk on this planet she stressed. I opened myself up through my creativity, and I am happy that people recognize subtle energies and want to be a part of them”.
FROM JEWELLERY TO DRESS DESIGN A SPECIAL CONNECTION WITH LUŠTICA BAY
Zlajić continues to grow as a designer and has now moved onto dress design incorporating the sculptural element of zippers in her work. Describing this she said, “Dresses are something I have dreamed about for a long time and worked on for a long time. The first dresses were made entirely of zippers, and this is something I want to continue doing”. Now that she has taken the bold, but not entirely unexpected, step into garment creation, her creativity is gaining momentum. New models of dresses are already in process and again something different from the previous ones. All the collections she makes, including the dresses, are made by hand, with all the necessary precision and consideration for quality during the entire production process. Some months back, Zlajić’s designs were part of Luštica Bay’s highly successful fashion show which was warmly received by the Montenegrin and international community. Zlajić points out why exhibiting her work on the catwalk in this sort of environment is important to her - I feel inextricably linked to nature and spend a lot of time in it. Luštica, with so much natural beauty, was the most beautiful runway for my dresses, she said.
With this in mind, we were curious to find out what item of jewellery she would design inspired by Luštica Bay. The response was encouraging as it seemed that just one item would not be enough - Luštica is so inspiring that I would probably make a collection rather than make one piece. Adding to this she explained - Nature is a great driver for my creativity, and the nature and the architecture of Luštica melt into each other. Katarina Zlajić is certainly a Montenegrin designer to watch as she goes from strength to strength with her spectacular designs.