FAMILY TRAVELLER
JANUARY/FEBRUARY 2015 / £3.95
JANUARY/FEBRUARY 2015
GO W EST 22-PAGE USA SPECIAL
10
HOLIDAYS INSPIRED BY KIDS’ BOOKS DEVON VS CORNWALL The best of both worlds
WIN!
TRAVELS WITH Charley Boorman, Simon Reeve and Mariella Frostrup
familytraveller.com
34987560
ISSUE 10
HOLIDAYS TO SARDINIA & FLORIDA, WORTH OVER
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AROUND THE WORLD THE ULTIMATE FAMILY ADVENTURE
£10,000
VALENCIA
SPAIN’S BEST KEPT SECRET
HEALTHY HOLIDAYS REBOOT ON A BREAK
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our little
checklist PROTECTION Many resorts won’t allow children on the mountain without a helmet. Although you can rent them, you can’t guarantee the fit and quality. We strongly recommend that you buy a helmet and make sure that your child can fasten it correctly. featured. Bern Bandito EPS Helmet:
£64
COSY TOES Snow boots keep feet warm and dry when playing in the snow and are ideal for wearing around the resort. Combine them with our knee-length socks, which come in a range of fun colours and designs. featured. Snow+Rock Skull and Cross Bones Sock: Sorel Yoot Pac Nylon Boot:
£5.99 £54.99
H AT S A N D G L O V E S We all understand the importance of hats and gloves when it comes to keeping children warm in the snow. When choosing gloves, make sure that they cover the wrists, as exposure to cold air can cause a drop in body temperature. If you’re buying for smaller children, mitts are a great idea; they can offer extra warmth and are easier to put on. featured. Hestra Kids Mitt: Barts Spirit Beanie:
£18.99 £22.99
THE UK’S LEADING WINTER SPORTS SPECIALIST
CLOTHING, EQUIPMENT AND FOOTWEAR S T O R E S N AT I O N W I D E S H O P O N L I N E AT W W W. S N O WA N D R O C K . C O M
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EYES & EARS & MOUTH & NOSE…
t
The sun’s rays are more intense in the mountains and damage occurs quickly due to the reflection from the snow. However young your child is, it’s essential to invest in a high factor sun cream and a pair of goggles to protect their eyes from harmful UV rays, wind and snow. featured. Oakley O2 X Goggle: Aloe Up Lil’ Kids SPF50 Suncream:
£49.99 £12.99
CLEVER CLOTHING The right combination of clothing will ensure that your child is warm, comfortable and happy. Start with a set of wicking base layers (or thermals as your mum used to call them); they will provide extra warmth and help to move moisture away from the skin. Team them up with a comfortable fleece and an insulated waterproof jacket and pant with lots of pockets to house those essential items. featured. Boy’s Quiksilver Flakes Jacket: Boy’s Quiksilver Boogie Pant: Odlo Warm Long Sleeve Crew:
£84.99 £69.99 from £22.99
DONT FORGET!
Take some snacks to keep energy levels up and make sure that your children drink lots of water. Dehydration causes tiredness and will make their muscles ache more at the end of the day.
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Discovered
thing lately?
Discover France or Spain for less This year, discover the freedom of a holiday in France or Spain with your car and enjoy up to 20% off our fantastic choice of hand-picked cottages, family-fun resorts and hotels. Better still, savings apply all year round – even during school holidays!
Save up to 20% on holidays – even during peak season
✓ Enjoy a huge choice of cottages and family-fun resorts
✓ Choose a sailing to suit you ✓ Pay just £40 per person deposit Book by 10 February
visit brittanyferries.com/save20 or call 0871 244 0162 Calls cost 10p per minute plus network extras. New bookings only. Saving applies to the basic holiday cost and excludes seasonal, weekend and vehicle supplements, additional passengers, pet travel, UK port hotels, golf, winter sun and insurance. Cannot be combined with any other offer or promotion. Terms and conditions apply.
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NL212 Family Traveller magazine - January - A4
22
32
in this issue
66 IN FOCUS: Westside USA Your 21-page guide, from Monument Valley to the Rockies, via California
12 Where we want to be
68 California dreaming
14 Competition
76 The real Wild West
Villa Kyma, Crete
Win a family holiday to Sardinia, worth £6,000
16 Trending now…
The latest news from the travel world
22 Into the city
Far from the madding crowd in Valencia
26 Ask the experts
Top bloggers solve your travel issues
29 Fashion news
Shiny new shoes and spring coverups
32 Mix it up
Hot new trends for spring
44 Competition
Win a £4,500 family holiday to Florida & £500 Mini Boden vouchers
47 Beauty news
Travel-friendly beauty buys
48 A healthy start
In the footsteps of cowboys
82 The Rockies
National park adventures
88 10 of the best…
… breaks inspired by children’s literature
94 Learn to… climb
The ultimate high in Yosemite
Rest, relaxation and lizards in Thailand
106 Scilly season
The UK islands that feel like abroad
109 Competition
Win a family break to the Scilly Isles
111 Devon vs Cornwall The best of both worlds
116 So near, so far
Winter getaways to the Isle of Wight
51 Simon Reeve
120 Road trip: Sussex
Why it’s good for parents and children to have some time apart
54 On top of the world Taking the kids on a six-month global family adventure
88
100 Animal magic
118 Rise to the challenge
53 Mariella Frostrup
In focus usa an american adventure
The iconic road trip
Start the new year with a feel-better break
Taking the plunge with wild swimming
66
Waterfall-diving on a road trip to Wales
54
The Mercedes C-Class put to the test
On the cover
Aspen wears hoodie, £55, and swimming costume, £40, both Bang Bang Copenhagen (bangbangcph.dk) and hat, £12, Elfie (elfilondon.com). Shot on location in Miami by Monica Skeisvoll.
122 Sail of the century
The megaships shaking up family cruising
124 Books/films
The latest books and cinema releases
128 Celebrity Q&A
Charley Boorman on childhood travel
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CONTRIBUTORS
INTRODUCING THE PEOPLE WHO’VE HELPED BRING YOU THIS ISSUE
JO ASCHERL ABI CAMPBELL Editor and writer Jo Ascherl started her career at the Evening Standard and has since worked on a number of launch titles. She is hoping her six-year-old son Alf will share her longtime love of Spain. See her Valencia report on page 22.
Abi Campbell is a photographer and writer. She is passionate about travelling with her two children, and believes it is the most effective way to give them perspective. Read about their California road trip on page 68.
HOLIDAY family traveller.com family traveller.comBEST FAMILY
BEST FAMILY HOLIDAY Island hopping in Croatia, diving off rocks into blue waters, spying lizards and playing crazy golf under big orange skies.
India with my nine-year-old son Ellis. With a stock of Dioralyte, we crossed the country by train, plane and tuk-tuk.
KATE ESHELBY AARON MILLAR Kate Eshelby is a photojournalist who writes and photographs for most of the major newspapers and magazines. She has visited half the world’s countries. Catch her exploring America’s Wild West on page 76.
Aaron Millar is the 2014 British Guild of Travel Writers Travel Writer of the Year. He blogs about adventure travel at TheBlueDotPerspective.com. You can read all about his Rocky Mountain adventure on page 82.
HOLIDAY family traveller.comBEST FAMILY family traveller.com
BEST FAMILY HOLIDAY A trip to Madagascar spotting lemurs in the jungles of the Masoala peninsula, followed by the tiny relaxed tropical island of Ile Sainte-Marie.
Discovering dinosaurs on a 500-mile Jurassic road trip around eastern Utah, which is home of the most complete record of prehistoric life on the planet.
RACHAEL NEWBURY AMANDA STATHAM Rachael Newberry is a lecturer in theatre and performance at Goldsmiths, University of London. On page 88, she discovers the best holidays inspired by children’s literature.
As a freelance writer and travel editor of Cosmopolitan, Amanda Statham jets off at least once a month with her three-year-old globetrotter son in tow. On page 111, she compares the delights of Cornwall and Devon
BEST FAMILY HOLIDAY family traveller.com family traveller.com The French Retreat in the Aquitaine. We stayed in a silver
BEST FAMILY HOLIDAY We took a tiny remote-control helicopter to The Prince Maurice in Mauritius, which got stuck on the roof of the restaurant one day. The hotel staff treated its retrieval like a military operation.
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1960s Airstream camper, had the use of a small hut with a typewriter and a fridge, and a classic 2CV.
family traveller.com 18/12/2014 13:52
Capri, Italy
Your most exclusive familY holidaY is now all-inclusive
EASTERN MEDITERRANEAN 10-night fly/cruise – celebrity reflection® – 21 aug 15 Rome (Civitavecchia), Italy → Messina, Sicily, Italy → Mykonos, Greece → Ephesus (Kusadasi), Turkey → Rhodes, Greece → Santorini, Greece → Athens (Piraeus), Greece → Sorrento/Capri (Naples), Italy → Rome (Civitavecchia), Italy
let celebrity cruises® transport you to a choice of over 280 handpicked destinations, across seven continents. step on board and savour award-winning cuisine – from trendy cafés to relaxed buffets, grills and bistros, as well as fine dining. Play croquet on a real grass lawn or unwind at our famous canyon ranch spaclub®, while the children get involved in an array of fun activities. who says you can’t please everyone all of the time? Book a Concierge Class stateroom or above to enjoy our all-inclusive offer. FREE DRINKS WORTH UP TO $1500 *
FREE GRATUITIES WORTH UP TO $340 *
ALL-INCLUSIVE Book a Concierge Class stateroom or above on selected sailings before 28 Feb 2015 and you’ll enjoy three enticing extras.
ONBOARD SPEND WORTH UP TO $300 *
Get in touch to book your family holiday in modern luxury.
CREATE YOUR OWN LUXURY Book an Ocean View or Balcony stateroom and choose TWO offers on selected European sailings and ONE offer for selected worldwide cruises.*
visit celeBritYcruises.co.uK/FAMILY freePhone our uK team 0800 240 4319 contact Your travel aGent @CELEBRITYUK
UKCELEBRITYCRUISES
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1. This all-inclusive promotion is part of 123Go! and applicable to new bookings made in Concierge Class stateroom categories or above only from 11 Nov–28 Feb 2015 on selected sailings departing between Mar 2015–Apr 2017. Eligible Concierge Class bookings will receive free drinks worth up to $1500 based on the current on-board price for 2 people on a 14 night sailing, free gratuities worth up to $340 calculated per stateroom based on a Concierge Class 14 night sailing and up to $300 Onboard Spend per stateroom dependent on ship and sail date. Up to two additional guests within the same stateroom will also receive a complimentary classic non-alcoholic drinks package and free 40 minutes internet usage on all eligible bookings in Concierge Class or above. 2. Non-concierge class sailings may also benefit from up to 2 of the benefits specified above on selected sailings. See 123Go! terms for more details. 3. 123Go! Offers are applicable to eligible guests aged 18 and over on the date of any eligible European, South America, Europe, Asia, Australia and New Zealand departing sailing and 21 on any eligible North American sailing. 4. Passenger date of birth information must be provided at the time of booking before the drinks package can be applied. This is a legal requirement. Please drink responsibly. 5. Internet allowance can only be used in the Celebrity iLounge. 6. Benefits of 123Go! have no redeemable cash value and may not be transferred. 7. 123Go! promotion benefits are combinable with Captains Club loyalty savings vouchers & 1 Category Stateroom Upgrade, Shareholders benefits, Back to Back Sailings Offer, Reduced Third & Fourth rates, Future Cruise Certificates only and the benefits offered by booking onboard via our Future Cruise Consultants (Cruise Now or Cruise Later Bookings only). 123Go Evergreen benefits offered onboard for Cruise Now bookings are not combinable with this promotion. 8. Interior staterooms and Z, Y, X, XC, XA and W staterooms are not eligible to benefit for this promotion. 9. For a list of applicable sailings and full 123 Go! terms, visit www.celebritycruises.co.uk or contact your travel agent. Subject to availability. This publicity is issued by RCL Cruises Ltd (company no. 07366612), t/a Celebrity Cruises, 3 The Heights, Brooklands, Weybridge, Surrey KT13 0NY
CEL_FamTrav_FP_0501_v5.indd 1 Celebrity Ad.indd 7
Winner of Cruise Line of the Year award 2014
Runner Up, Cruise Lines – Large Ships 2014
18/12/2014 13:52 12:52 18/12/2014
Editor Jane Anderson +44 (0) 20 7812 6369 jane@familytraveller.com Digital Editor Rosie Price-Smith +44 (0) 20 7812 6377 rosie@familytraveller.com Digital Content Manager Lisa Atkinson +44 (0) 20 7812 6378 lisa@familytraveller.com Digital Content Assistant Amy Hopkins +44 (0) 20 7812 6378 amy@familytraveller.com Editor at Large Tom Parker Bowles Contributing Editor Mariella Frostrup
Beauty Editor Sophie Qureshi Motoring Editor Richard Yarrow Art Direction Kate Greenfield Emma Kirkham Picture Director Caz Conboy Sub-Editors Greg Hughes Catherine Small Editorial Interns Shannon Barbour Charlotte Richardson
Fashion Editor Linda McLean
COMMERCIAL
CEO & Publisher Andrew Dent +44 (0) 20 7812 6374 andrew@familytraveller.com Commercial Director Kieron Dodd +44 (0) 20 7812 6372 kieron@familytraveller.com
Advertising Director Stephen Kilshaw +44 (0) 20 7812 6373 stephen@familytraveller.com
Chief Digital Officer Charles Astwood +44 (0) 20 7812 6368 charles@familytraveller.com
Family Traveller Shop Paige Birnie +44 (0) 20 7812 6379 paige@familytraveller.com
Digital Advertising Manager CK Edwards-Levene +44 (0) 20 7812 6368 ck@familytraveller.com
Financial Director Louise Whitburn +44 (0) 20 7812 6368 louise@familytraveller.com
Indian Advertising Agent Rachna Gulati, Mediascope Publicitas +91 11 2373 0873 rachna.gulati@publicitas.com
Finance Intern Jessica Catucci Italian Advertising Agent Media & Service International srl, Via Giotto 32, I-20145 Milano +39 (0) 248006193 info@it-mediaservice.com
Copyright © Ardent Media Ltd, 1 Lumley Street, London W1K 6TT. Print managed in the UK by Logical Connections Ltd (logicalconnections.co.uk). Reprographics by PH Media (phmedia.com). Published bi-monthly. All rights reserved. Reproduction in whole or in part without written permission is strictly prohibited. All prices correct at the time of going to press but subject to change. The paper used for this publication is recyclable and made from renewable fibrous raw materials. It has been produced using wood sourced from sustainably managed forests and elemental or total chlorine-free bleached pulp. The magazine can be recycled through kerbside collection or at a recycling point. ISSN 2052-4773 Family Traveller, 5 Langley Street, London WC2H 9JA. Website: familytraveller.com
Photograph: Monika skeisvoll Satine wears jacket, £265, Dolce & Gabbana; T-shirt, £32, Wildfox; skirt, £90, Little Remix; sunglasses, stylist’s own; socks, £8.50, American Apparel; sandals, from a selection, Fendi at Rokit. Stockists, page 41
EDITORIAL
ABC certification for period May/June 2014: 51,508
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We’re laid-back
We’re upbeat
We’re Egypt
See you by the Red Sea
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editor’s letter
I
t’s not every day you get to feed a 25-year-old polar bear called Manasse. As my children and I lobbed great bricks of meat and buckets of veg down into his vast enclosure at the Ranua Wildlife Park in Finnish Lapland, his missus, Venus, was hiding away in her den preparing to give birth. We’ve since heard she successfully delivered two cubs on December 4 – all on her own. Via surveillance cameras in her den, her keepers, including the gentle Heidi Kouvo, have been monitoring the newborns, who are doing well, with mum taking the utmost care. Mostly, the pair lie between her front paws, against her hairy chest and close to the dugs (nipples). To encounter these noble creatures close up, along with Arctic foxes, reindeer and huskies, is an illustration of the power of family travel. Our Lapland trip with Discover the World (discover-the-world.co.uk)
WIN £200 WORTH OF BODEN VOUCHERS… Tamsin Loxley posted this picture of 10-year-old Uma and eight-year-old Frey at Fort House Hotel, Kerala, at the start of a three-month worldwide odyssey. They win £200 worth of Boden vouchers. For your chance to win, post a photo of your child on holiday with this issue at facebook.com/familytraveller
was far more profound than my kids and I had ever imagined it would be. This issue of Family Traveller aims to fire the imagination for your family adventures this year. Our In Focus section (p66) takes a look at Westside USA, from iconic Californian drives (who says you can’t take the kids in a Mustang convertible?) to tracking cowboys and canyons in Colorado. We follow a family who took the plunge and bravely removed their kids from school to travel the world for six months (p54), while our Learn To… series takes a look at climbing and where your kids can master the art. If books are more your children’s passion, take a look at our top 10 holidays inspired by children’s literature (p88), which takes us to Tintin’s Brussels, Pippi Longstocking’s Sweden and more. We’re champions of staycations at Family Traveller, and if the UK is on your radar for family travel this year, check out our Cornwall-versus-Devon challenge (p111), and discover the best of the Scillies (p106). Plus, we’ve got an action-packed trip to Wales (p118), and winter breaks on the Isle of Wight (p116). We bring you the latest from the world of cruising, with this year’s two new megaships, Britannia and Anthem of the Seas, launching some amazing on-board thrills, from celebrity chefs to skydiving (p122). And don’t miss your chance to win a £6,000 holiday to Sardinia (p14), and a £4,500 holiday to Florida plus £500 of Mini Boden vouchers (p44). Enjoy this New Year issue of Family Traveller!
Jane Anderson Editor
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dream holiday
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WHERE WE WANT TO BE VILLA KYMA, CRETE A beautiful villa with a private pool by the ocean is the definition of a dream family holiday. Somewhere you can all kick back and relax. James Villa Holidays offers a fantastic selection of over 2,700 villas across more than 50 family-friendly destinations including this stunner in Crete. With travel cots and highchairs provided free of charge where available, James Villa Holidays helps you plan fuss-free family holidays at an affordable price. Heaven! View the full James Villa Holidays collection online at jamesvillas.co.uk or call 0800 027 2927
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The resort features top sports schools, such as the Chelsea Football Academy Supervised activities for children up to 12 include cookery classes
Forte Village boasts a total of 10 pools, so there’s something for everyone
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Competition
win an elegant resorts holiday to forte village, sardinia
F Little ones will love the kids’ pool facilities
Luxury Tour Operator Elegant Resorts is offering one lucky family the chance to win holiday worth over £6,000 – that’s everything you could want and more!
orte Village in Sardinia comes highly recommended by the luxury travel experts at Elegant Resorts, especially if your family likes a huge choice of activities, a stunning location with wonderful weather, and impeccable service. Your little ones won’t have time to utter the words, ‘I’m bored’ at Forte Village. There isn’t just a kids’ club, there is an entire Children’s City, where children up to 12 years old are entertained with supervised activities, including painting, theatre workshops, pizza-making, music lessons and creative writing. Water babes can splash about at Laguna, the children-only pool, or join in the activities at the beach, one of Sardinia’s most beautiful. At the end of each week, proud parents can watch their children show off new-found talents in a performance at Piazza Maria Luigia, the main social hub of the resort. Extra-special experiences include the Barbie Experience, which grants budding princesses exclusive access to the Barbie Activity Centre, while sports fans will be pleased to learn the resort is home to top sports schools, including the CSKA Basketball Academy and the Chelsea Football Academy.
As if all this wasn’t impressive enough, a toy train runs between the Children’s City and Aquarium, the kids’ restaurant that serves crowd-pleasing dishes. Teenagers are certainly not forgotten here, and activities including studio sessions for aspiring DJs can be arranged, while at U-Club they can mingle with guests their own age at events including themed parties, without mum and dad cramping their style. There is also Leisureland, designed specifically for teens and adults, which features a go-kart circuit, a bowling alley, computer games, a climbing wall and much more. Forte Village has the art of providing the right balance of family time together – and apart – down to a tee. From the Villa del Parco & Spa, Hotel Castello, Le Dune and Cala Del Forte Suites – the accommodation options on offer – an unparalleled range of leisure facilities can be accessed. While little ones are happily being entertained, parents can flit between the swimming pools and the Thalasso del Forte thalassotherapy spa, the boutiques and the beach, dine at restaurants, including the famous Belvedere, or play a round at Is Molas Golf Club, just a short drive away.
For a chance to win this luxury holiday for a family of four, simply visit
familytraveller.com/competitions
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the prize a five-night stay in one of the five-star hotels at forte village resort in sardinia, for two adults and up to two children on a half-board basis return flights for four people return transfers
TERMS AND CONDITIONS The prize is subject to hotel and flight availability. It must be taken between 9 May and 11 July 2015 and 29 August to 3 October 2015 inclusive (blackout dates 12 July to 28 August 2015). All services not specified under the board arrangement will be charged to the room and paid by guest at checkout. The prize is not transferable. For full Terms & Conditions go to familytraveller.com/competitions For more information on Elegant Resorts luxury holidays visit elegantresorts.co.uk or call our Travel Consultants on 01244 897519
18/12/2014 09:15
TRENDING NOW ... ALL THE LATEST TRAVEL NEWS. BY JANE ANDERSON
CARIBBEAN STORIES Kids’ clubs continue to come up with brilliant activities, and here at Family Traveller, one of our favourites is Elite Island Resorts’ storytelling and sketching workshops in the Caribbean. Rachel Bright and Adam Stower, two of the UK’s top children’s illustrators and storytellers from Puffin, will host summer workshops at St James’s Club Morgan Bay St Lucia
and St James’s Club & Villas on Antigua. Virgin Holidays offers seven nights all-inclusive at St James’s Club & Villas Antigua with flights, transfers and Puffin workshops (book on check-in) from £1,369 per person, based on two adults and two children in August.
THE FAMILY ADVENTURE COMPANY HAS INCREASED THE CUT-OFF AGE FOR CHILD DISCOUNTS FROM 12 TO 15 TO HELP KEEP ADVENTURE TRAVEL AFFORDABLE FOR FAMILIES WITH TEENS. CHECK OUT THEIR FAB HOLIDAYS AT THE NEW WEBSITE, FAMILYADVENTURECOMPANY.CO.UK BRING LEARNING TO LIFE Bring your kids’ Key Stage 2 (7-11 years) Roman curriculum to life with a gladiator weekend in Rome. The beautiful Rome Cavalieri hotel, overlooking The Eternal City, is offering Gladiator Weekends, where kids learn ancient combat techniques complete with tunic, Roman sandals, belt, protective gloves and wooden training sword. Cool! Gladiator weekends cost from £1,554 per family, based on a two-night stay. Flights extra. romecavalieri.com
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IBIZA WITH KIDS Ibiza continues its child-friendly overhaul with two new five-star resorts that put the emphasis firmly on families. This summer, Thomson opens the Sensatori Resort Ibiza in peaceful Cala Tarida, in the southwest of the island, built in the style of a traditional Ibicencan village with local cobblestones. Thomson offers seven nights all-inclusive from £1,030 per adult, and £453 per child, including flights. Meanwhile, The Grand Palladium White Island Resort & Spa in Playa d’en Bossa now forms part of the largest resort on the island. Thomson offers seven nights all-inclusive from £580 per adult, and £380 per child, including flights; thomson.co.uk
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MAY THE FORCE BE WITH YOU Set-jetting takes on epic proportions this year, as Explore invites families to go on a Star Wars odyssey. The new Intergalactic Tunisian Family Adventure sees wannabe Luke Skywalkers visiting some of the film’s locations, challenging themselves with an aerial rope course and enjoying the thrills of Tunisia’s largest waterpark. There’s a night in a troglodyte cave dwelling, with Bedouin cookery lessons, plus the highlights of Tunis, Port El Kantaoui and Djerba. Suitable for children aged five and over, the nine-day tour costs from £1,095 per adult and £1,019 per child, including flights, eight nights’ accommodation on a bed-and-breakfast basis, eight other meals, transport and the services of a tour leader, driver and guides. explore.co.uk
The ultimate family holiday
THE ULTIMATE FAMILY HOLIDAY
starts here...
Memorable Wildlife Encounters
Amazing Cultural Adventures
Exciting Activity Weeks
Voted by The Times as best family tour operator. We offer 50 small group adventures worldwide in some of the most fascinating places. There are no kids clubs on our family adventures - just lots of fun and amazing shared experiences. Order your new brochure today
Call 0845 287 6211 | familyadventurecompany.co.uk 016_News_FT_10_2015.indd 17 112521_family-traveller-1-2_page.indd 1
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TRENDING NOW ...
ALPINE ADDITION
Club Med opens new teen-friendly ski resort in the French Alps The Three Valleys, the world’s largest ski domain, has a new addition: a smart new all-inclusive resort from Club Med, and it’s a real cracker. Situated in the heart of Val Thorens, Europe’s highest ski resort, Val Thorens Sensations is fully ski-in, ski-out. While Val Thorens is not as pretty as illustrious neighbours Meribel and Courcheval, it certainly offers plenty of skiing for all abilities. Club Med has recognised the growth in extended family groups holidaying together, and has catered perfectly for that. This might mean the grandparents
tag along, or that separate families travel as a group. Either way, there is enough for all to do during the day and evening. The convenience of the set-up certainly helps families – ski hire, lockers, kids’ club and leisure facilities are all on site. Ski lessons are all included, and these are conducted by the main Ecole du Ski Français instructors. Lessons can be arranged in a private group, so the kids and their friends can go out together, or you can set off as a family. Food is plentiful
and tasty, with flexible dining times to suit the group. After dinner, the bar areas are lively (and again all-inclusive). With February half term falling on the same date for all European countries this year, it’s best to target Easter – better value, better weather and fewer people around. Club Med offers seven nights during the Easter holidays from £1,792.50 per adult or teenager, including gourmet full board, all drinks, ski lessons in English, lift pass, flights and resort transfer. clubmed.co.uk
MOUNTAINS IN SUMMER Powder Byrne has a new Alpine summer programme in Flims, Switzerland. Its PB Mountain Academy during August, for kids aged eight and over, offers indoor rock-climbing and a forest high-ropes course, lake swimming and kayaking, mountain survival and camp craft skills, plus downhill mountain biking and white-water rafting. If that doesn’t wear them out, nothing will! From £790 per week per person sharing a self-catering luxury apartment, and including Powder Byrne’s full service in resort. Flights and activities extra. powderbyrne.com
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*Visit sovereign.com for full sale T&Cs. All offers must be booked before 23:59 on 2 February 2015. Saving of up to 40% applies to two adults and one child sharing at Domes of Elounda, Crete for selected departure dates in May 2015. † Free flights & accommodation for children, available on selected holidays. Offers are subject to availability and may be subject to change. All the flights and flight-inclusive holidays on sovereign.com are financially protected by the ATOL scheme. When you pay you will be supplied with an ATOL Certificate. Please ask for it and check to ensure that everything you booked (flights, hotels and other services) is listed on it. Please see our booking conditions at www.sovereign.com/pdf/terms.pdf for further information or for more information about financial protection and the ATOL Certificate go to: www.atol.org.uk/ATOLCertificate. All exclusive offers and sale discounts are combinable. IMAGE: Sani Resort, Halkidiki
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TRENDING NOW ...
MENORCA JOINS THE HIP LIST Menorca, Majorca and Ibiza’s sleepier little sibling, has been given the thumbs up by hip hideaway specialist i-escape.com: it now has enough boutique accommodation to warrant its own dedicated collection, with many family-friendly options. Criss-crossed with walking trails and peaceful farmland, this beautiful island remains wonderfully easy to explore. The Manor House is super child-friendly; a really well-equipped, spacious villa perfect for larger families, including a room with two bunk beds and lots of toys. There’s also a great pool and beaches nearby. From £812 per night, based on up to 14 sharing on an accommodation-only basis. Flights extra. i-escape.com
IF IT’S GOOD ENOUGH FOR BILBO… ARE YOUR KIDS MAD FOR THE HOBBIT BOOKS AND MOVIES? TAKE THEM TO THEIR VERY OWN HOBBIT VILLAGE IN THE ‘SHIRE’ OF NORTHWEST MONTANA. SLEEPS FOUR FROM £202 PER NIGHT; HOMEAWAY.CO.UK/P969762 AND TEDDY GOES TOO
PHOTOGRAPHS: ALLSTAR, ALAMY
Bedruthan Hotel & Spa in north Cornwall is a superb choice for a first holiday away as new parents. Its ‘Don’t Forget Teddy’ package has everything covered. There’s high tea for tots from 4-6pm, and a baby-friendly corridor with sssh! after 7pm. A free baby-listening service means parents can unwind with a cocktail and dinner in the Wild Café. Baby backpacks are available to explore the coastal path to Watergate Bay or Porthcothan and the hotel provides maps showing the best paths for buggies. From £150 per night on a B&B basis in a Sea View Family Room. bedruthan.com
DOWN THE RABBIT HOLE Lewis Carroll’s Alice’s Adventures in Wonderland, with iconic characters such as the White Rabbit, is 150 years old. To celebrate, The Story Museum in Oxford is holding a special Alice Day on 4 July, with curiouser and curiouser happenings, including a Mad Hatter’s Tea Party, exhibitions, storytelling, and Alice-themed walks. storymuseum.org.uk For more holidays inspired by children’s literature, see p88.
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family_traveller_297x210.pdf
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DISCOVER ALL-INCLUSIVE GRAND PALLADIUM WHITE ISLAND RESORT & SPA IN IBIZA AND LET THE REAL FUN BEGIN!
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Grand Palladium White Island Resort & Spa is the newest luxury retreat to open on the White Isle in spring 2015, creating the largest resort on the island. Sitting in a privileged beachfront location on Ibiza’s Playa d’en Bossa, the five-star all-inclusive resort’s facilities are unrivalled, featuring a freshwater pool, ultra-modern suites and a varied entertainment programme for all ages. Its Zentropia Palladium Spa & Wellness centre is one of the best places to relax on the island while dining options are unrivalled.
/PalladiumHotelsandResorts
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INTO THE CITY / VALENCIA
FAR FROM THE MADDING CROWD Forget busy Barcelona – Valencia is far more family-friendly, as JO ASCHERL discovers
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T
he crowds still flock to Barcelona, but further south, on Spain’s sun-kissed Mediterranean coast, there’s another city on the beach, scattered with orange blossom, where a Moorish past meets futuristic architectural wonders. It’s home to a magnificent old town, world-class museums, a city beach and, let’s not forget, paella. A river once ran through the city, but now the riverbed is a long and winding park. You can get lost in the labyrinthine streets of the old town, then emerge onto wide-open plazas where the beautiful light casts a golden glow over Gothic, Renaissance and Art Nouveau buildings, then jump on a tram to the beach. This being Spain, Valencia is a lively, late city (with a fire-cracking Fallas festival in March), but it also has everything for the perfect family city break. Go there before the inevitable crowds descend.
Where to sleep Palau de la Mar
At this reimagined 19th-century palace, part of the Spanish-owned Hospes group of flamboyant hotels, you can sweep down the original marble staircase on your way to the restaurant or wellbeing spa (the latter has a small pool, more for lolling about in than swimming), or chill out in the inner courtyard.
It’s on a wide, busy street, but is close to the riverbed and a 10-minute walk from the old town. There are interconnecting rooms for families, and highchairs and babysitting services are available. The restaurant downstairs has lots of traditional, local food. Rooms from £140 per night. hospes.com
Caro
Another former palace, Caro opened as a hotel in 2012 after a lengthy restoration. Arabic walls and columns give the building a strong cultural identity, and it occupies a prime spot – moments from the museum of fine art and about 200m from the Plaza de la Virgen – at the far end of a pretty, pedestrianised street. Rooms are individual and minimal, with both modern and 18th-century touches. The interconnecting rooms are good for families, on a private floor, and have surprisingly large baths. There is a private terrace with a bar and a Michelin-starred restaurant (but plenty of on-your-doorstep, low-key restaurant options, too). Rooms from £130 per night. carohotel.com
Heaven on Earth
A good (and less expensive) family option, especially if you have young children, is to stay in a fully equipped apartment. Heaven On Earth specialises in Spanish properties and has some great homes in central Valencia, which are well-connected to public transport. Malvabeach Family House, for example, is a striking modern house near the beach with space for up to 14 guests, so perfect for a multi-generational getaway. It also has an impressive swimming pool and barbecue for chilling out after city sightseeing. From £395 per week. heavenonearth.es
old meets new
Main picture: the City of the Arts and Sciences. Clockwise from below: the stylish Caro hotel; the Fallas festival; Malvarrosa beach
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Into the city / valencia
Where to eat Orio
This is a (very big) nod to the Basque region of Spain, and its main focus is on pintxos, San Sebastian-style. It’s an ideal stop-off near both the old town and market, it is open all day and the food is immediate and child friendly. There is an à la carte menu, but the tapas are the reason to come here. oriogastronomiavasca.com
La Pepica
A classic, white-table-clothed, old-school restaurant, moments from Malvarrosa beach, this was a firm favourite with Ernest Hemingway. It has been serving crowd-pleasing dishes with a direct view to the beach for decades, and the paellas are very good. The charm of its history is very present, and the paellas are proudly presented at the table before being taken off to plate up. lapepica.com
El Huerto
This is in the area of Ruzafa, just outside the centre of the city, which is full of creative folk, art studios and restaurants. Glorious original Valencian tiles cover the floors, while chandeliers complete the decadent look. Unusually for the restaurants in this area, it has space to play at the back of its palm-tree-filled gardens. The food is excellent. Simple fish and meat dishes sit alongside inventive rice dishes, such as rice with cauliflower and chiporones. elhuertorestaurante.es
out and about
Clockwise from right: Gnomo; colourful houses in the old town; tempting tapas at Orio
make a splash
The fountains at the centre of Plaza de la Virgen
Where to shop Gnomo
Gnomo is one of several interesting shops that have popped up in Ruzafa’s sprawling streets. It’s a trendy homeware store, in a gallery-like space, with a glass front, black and white check flooring and plenty of space to mooch. There is modern designer jewellery, well-made T-shirts with big Ruzafa logos, gadgets for kids (and dads), make-your-own-paella kits, unusual monster dolls and drinking glasses with sassy designs. gnomo.eu
Simple
This is a new arrival near the old town, and opened only a few months ago. All its wares – such as colourful satchels, notepads, shoes, children’s toy theatres and enamelware, including a few items that are specific to Valencia, from ceramic birds to old-fashioned sweets – are made in Spain. Desirable vintage postcards of the city from the 1920s are displayed in a glass case near the entrance, and there are soaps, candles and every possible type of basket, as well as intricate basketwork donkey heads, made to order by an 89-year-old local señor. simpletienda.tumblr.com
OriginalCV
A former pharmacy with an exquisite patterned ceiling, this shop is a one-stop wonder for Valencian edible produce. Quirky items in pretty packaging make ideal gifts – gin and tonic salad dressing, white truffle oils, rice, nougat, jam and specialty beers – and there are bottles of interesting cava, as well as lots of wine and jamon. They also have Spanish tiles (not so edible), baskets and orange blossom candles in the mix. It sits opposite the classic Art Deco Colon market, so stop off for a café con leche on your way there and admire the building, which also makes a good runaround spot for the kids. originalcv.es
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What to see Oceanogràfic
This is part of the sci-fi-esque City of Arts and Sciences, which also contains the Príncipe Felipe Science Museum and an IMAX cinema. Oceanogràfic is a well laid out aquarium, the biggest of its kind in Europe, and represents environments from the Antarctic to the Red Sea. Flamingoes, penguins and howling seals are there to greet you, but venture down to the underwater area and you can walk through a 70m-long tunnel surrounded by sharks and sting rays. A top tip is to catch one of the twicedaily outdoor dolphin shows. Adults £23, children £17. cac.es/oceanografic
Photographs: robert harding.com, alamy, noria mirto, 4 corners images
Fallas museum
During the Fallas celebrations in March, the streets come alive with a parade of giant papier maché figures. The festival culminates with fireworks and a dramatic bonfire. This museum is a shrine to the spirit of the parade, where every year one figure makes its way to the hall of Fallas fame, rather than being thrown on the bonfire. There are two floors of posters and comic creations, including singing pigs, Jacques Cousteau and Mary Poppins. Quirky and original. Admission free. fallasfromvalencia.com
Bioparc
This is a zoo, but not as we know it. The animals are kept in authentically wild habitats, rather than cages, which means you can get close-up views – you’re separated from the animals by water, boulders and walkways. It’s divided up into regions of Africa, such as Savannah and Madagascar. There are giraffes, meerkats, zebras, rhinos, lions, gorillas, elephants, monkeys, flamingoes and many more, and its layout is such that it never feels overcrowded. Adults £19, children £15. ioparcvalencia.es
Where to play
float your boat
Cycle along the riverbed
The old riverbed is traffic-free, verdant and tree-lined. Hire bikes and cycle from Exposicion bridge all the way to the science museum via Gulliver Park, an adventure playground with a huge Gulliver model, slides and ladders. solutionbike.com
Albufera
Albufera is a pretty town about 30 minutes from the city centre. Have a lunchtime paella, and then take a boat ride around the rice marshes. A guide will give you a brief history of the waters (and the eels, the king fish in these parts). albuferaparc.com
Malvarrosa Beach
You can’t go to Valencia with children without visiting its beach at least once. It’s a 15-minute tram ride from the old town and has swathes of golden sand and warm, shallow waters. n British Airways flies to Valencia from £206 return. A Valencia Tourist Card, from £12 per person and valid for 24, 48 or 72 hours, gives free travel on public transport, free admission to museums and up to 50 per cent off in selected restaurants and shops. visitvalencia.com
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Clockwise from above: exploring Albufera by boat; Simple; you never know who you’ll meet
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ASK THE EXPERTS
Ask us a family travel question and we’ll get our online experts to answer it for you
STAYCATIONING WITH TEENS I have a 13-year-old son and a 15-year-old daughter. I’m looking for a cottage to rent in the UK where there will be plenty to entertain them, but which doesn’t cost the earth in the summer holidays. Louise, via email
A
Keeping teens entertained on holiday can be tricky, but there is a wealth of activities, attractions and accommodation available across the UK. A cottage holiday is a great way to cover all those bases, because the properties on offer are so diverse and can easily meet the needs of the whole family. A great property for larger families is Devereux’s in Littleham,
Cabarita Cottage
North Devon. The cottage sleeps eight and has internet access and a games room, with table football, a PlayStation and a selection of games. All four bedrooms have their own TV and Sky. For active families, Cabarita Cottage in Portreath, west Cornwall is the perfect choice. The property sleeps up to six people and has wi-fi, and a number of on-site leisure activities, which are great for families. The owners can offer discounts for activities such as surfing, coasteering, foraging, kayaking, golf, paddleboarding and more. Both cottages are within five miles of a beach and can be booked via holiday cottages.co.uk.
EXPERT: Katie Bott BLOG: holidaycottages.co.uk
The old lighthouse, aka the Pepperpot, at Portreath in, Cornwall
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TODDLER-FRIENDLY TRAVELS
Q
We are parents of two-year-old twins. Package-style hotels aren’t our thing, but a villa seems too much like hard work. Suggestions? Miriam, Kent
A
Baby-Friendly Boltholes features a range of small, family-run hotels or apartments that offer a combination of meals, drinks and usually a bit of childcare, too, so everyone gets a break. For example, at the gorgeous Mas du Jouas near Saint-Remy in south-west France, there are communal kids’ suppers every afternoon followed by grown-up dinners once the little ones are in bed. Some nights, these are sociable suppers with fellow parents; on others, they’re candlelit meals in a private gazebo in the grounds. At Villa Pia in Umbria, Italy, there are communal kids’ suppers and adult dinners, too, and lunch is included, so there’s no need to cook at all. The heated pools, soft-play barn, games room, toy-filled courtyard and fellow playmates mean it’s easy to keep toddlers occupied. Country Kids Resort near Montpellier in France includes daily breakfasts and selected meals, but there are also daily farm-animal-feeding rounds, a drop-in crèche/kids’ club, pools, play areas and a tranquil grown-ups-only pool and spa area, so parents can fully relax while the kids enjoy supervised play with fellow mini-guests in the club house.
EXPERT: Sian Williams BLOG: babyfriendlyboltholes.co.uk
family traveller.com
PHOTOGRAPH: SHUTTERSTOCK
Q
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La Finca
Guided family cycling holidays are great active fun for younger chiildren
Q
THE SINGLE LIFE
Q
I’m a single mum with three girls between the ages of seven and 13. I struggle to find affordable holidays where we are all entertained. Do you have any suggestions? Lisa, Oxford
A
It’s easy to get hung up on whether the kids will love a holiday and forget that it’s your break, too. But a trip where you end up stuck on your own while they have a great time is no fun, so it’s worth checking holidays specifically for single parents. A new website, 101singlesholidays.co.uk, has a variety of destinations aimed at parents travelling solo with their children. As well as
IN THE SWIM
child-friendly facilities, you’ll find adults in a similar situation, and readymade company for your daughters. Sands Resort in Newquay, Cornwall, has a spa, kids’ clubs and family rooms with no single supplement on some dates. For something more active, guided family cycling holidays with Saddle Skedaddle let you explore in a group and are suitable for younger children. Or, for guaranteed sun, Single With Kids does all-inclusive beach breaks in Mallorca and Menorca, and doesn’t charge single supplements. Try teenfriendly Alcúdia, where free kids’ clubs for your younger daughters mean you'll only be budgeting for souvenirs. If you can’t wait for summer, how about skiing? Esprit Ski offers tuition for all ages, evening kids’ clubs and no single supplements in school holidays, so between lessons you can make snowmen and go sledging, then chill out over après-ski drinks with other parents in a shared chalet.
EXPERT: Cathy Winston BLOG: 101holidays.co.uk/singles
We have two young children, aged one and four, and are looking for a family villa with a gated pool. Maggie, Dorset
A
My two-year-old son once fell into an unenclosed pool while we were staying in a villa in France. We fished him out, but the stats around drownings will spoil your day. Which is why every single one of Tots to Travel’s properties has some sort of pool barrier. We don’t regard a pool alarm (a legal requirement in France) as anywhere near adequate. There are about 400 properties to choose from in France, Italy, Spain (including the Balearics and the Canaries), Portugal and the UK, all of which have been visited and vetted. Given that you have such young children, I’d recommend a villa that’s been specially designed and equipped with families with young children in mind, such as La Finca on the Costa Blanca in Spain. It’s a fourbedroom villa, hidden away in the quiet of an orange grove. Children love the large enclosed outdoor play area and parents have the peace of mind that comes with having a safety barrier between the pool and garden play area. There are plenty of places to escape the strong midday sun, and enjoy a picnic or a siesta in the shade. La Finca is just a 10-minute drive from Dénia, with its beautiful coastline, and only a few minutes from the EXPERT: Wendy Shand closest town Pedregeur. BLOG: totstotravel.co.uk
SEND YOUR QUESTIONS BY EMAIL TO EDITORIALTEAM@FAMILYTRAVELLER.COM, VIA TWITTER @FAMTRAVELLER OR BY POST TO FAMILY TRAVELLER Q&A, 5 LANGLEY STREET, LONDON WC2H 9JA 26-27_Asktheexperts_FT_10_2015.indd 27
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FAMILY FUN! It’s hard enough these days getting the whole family around the dinner table, let alone arranging a holiday they can all enjoy, so at Carnival we go the extra mile to make every cruise an unforgettable adventure for everyone. Our rooms are extraordinarily spacious and if you need additional space then we can provide generously proportioned interconnected rooms. So you can be close without being on top of each other.
Not that you’ll be spending a lot of time in your room. We have a host of onboard activities that you can enjoy as a family. Why not head on over to WaterWorks, our very own onboard water park and splish splash the day away! This isn’t just kids’ stuff — the young at heart are encouraged to zoom and splash around too!
TM
FOR MORE INFORMATION, CALL RESERVATIONS ON: 0845 351 0556 OR GO ONLINE: WWW.CARNIVAL.CO.UK
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FASHION Sandals, £35, Hug and Hatch hugandhatch.com
Wellington boots, £44.99, Mooi en Lief mooienlief.com
FASH EDI TO R I ON ’ S PI C K Trainers, £70, Sophia Webster sophiawebster.co.uk
Peep-toe shoes, £99, Vevian vevian.co.uk
HAPPY NEW SHOES Step out in style this spring, says Linda McLean
Lace-up boots, £185, Chapter 2 chapter2kids.com
High tops, from £35, Billybandit houseoffraser.co.uk
Shoes with Liberty print laces, from £78, Young Soles youngsoles.co.uk
Boots, £30, Poco Nido poconido.com
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ON-T REND CAMO PR IN T
FASHION
E DI Rain jacket, £40, Billybandit houseoffraser.co.uk
Jacket, £60, Popupshop popupshop.net
BRIGHT SPARKS Bold blues, greens and oranges are top of the wish list for boys’ spring clothing
Blazer, from £146, Boss Kids houseoffraser. co.uk
Anorak, from £35, shorts, from £16, hat, £16, and canvas shoes, from £22, all Boden boden.co.uk
FASHION EDITO R’S PICK
Cotton jumper, £36, Tootsa MacGinty, tootsamacginty.com
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FASHION EDITO R’S PICK Dress, £16, biker jacket, £20, bandana, £3, and sandals, from £9, all F&F clothingattesco.com Rain jacket, £29.95, Gap gap.co.uk
CANDY CRUSH
These pretty sherbet pastels will take girls seamlessly from winter to spring
Padded jacket, £100, Diesel diesel.com
KEY CO LO UR FO R 20 15
Coat, £59, Jigsaw Junior jigsaw-online.com
Sweatshirt, £36, Gardner and the Gang gardnerand thegang.com
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fashion / miami
tights, ÂŁXXXXX, XXXXX;
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MIX ITUP! Kids’ new-season fashion is all about nautical-inspired stripes, geometric patterns and monochromatic cool
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fashion / miami Previous page Roman wears T-shirt, £115, and shorts, £115, both by Dolce & Gabbana. Naomi wears crocodileprint jacket, £75, Mini Rodini; T-shirt, £36, Soft Gallery; shorts, £40, and bag (on floor), £80, both Bobo Choses; socks, £7 for five pairs, Marks & Spencer; and shoes, £25, Converse. Stella wears hoodie, £60, Wildfox; dress, £45, Bobo Choses; eye mask necklace and Minnie mouse ears, stylist’s own; socks, £7 for five pairs, Marks & Spencer; and shoes, £25, Converse. Satine wears cat face swimming costume, £34, Mini Rodini; Minnie Mouse-print skirt, £25, Little Eleven; jumper (around waist), from £80, Stella McCartney; cap, stylist’s own; burger and egg necklaces, £30 each, both Tatty Devine. Devon wears Bart Simpson T-shirt, £30, and Mickey Mouse cap, £22, both Little Eleven; denim jacket, £70, Molo; shorts, £58, Scotch Shrunk; and socks, model’s own
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Eian wears shirt, £32, Elfie; shorts, £19.99, Gap; hat, £8, River Island; braces, £24, East End Highlanders; and shoes, model’s own. Regan wears jacket, £65, Soft Gallery; lace top, £95, My Little Dress Up; shorts, £22, and daisy collar, £12, both Mini Boden; bow, £29, No Added Sugar; and sandals, £28, Next. Naomi wears dress, £59, La Coqueta; sunglasses, from a selection, Next; bag, £435, Dolce & Gabbana; and shoes, from £28, Mini Boden. Roman wears jersey shirt, £42, Kidscase; shorts, £20, Mini Boden; knitted tie, £20, Stella McCartney at Rokit; belt, model’s own; and shoes, £23, Next Opposite page Naomi wears sunflower leotard, £23, American Apparel; shorts, £135, and bag, £435, both by Dolce & Gabbana
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fashion / miami
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Kia wears striped dress, £55, Bang Bang Copenhagen. Regan wears striped top, £52, No Added Sugar; shorts, £103, My Little Dress Up; and headband, stylist’s own. Aspen wears denim shirt, £50, Finger in the Nose; and skirt, £45, Bobo Choses. Scarlet wears dress, £26, Petite Bateau; and headband, stylist’s own
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fashion / miami
Aspen wears dress, £125, Little Remix. Regan wears, lace top, £60, and shorts, £50, both Antik Batik Opposite page Devon wears floral jacket, £92, and shirt, £76, both by Finger in the Nose; shorts, £19.95, Gap; and shoes, £32, Vans. Stella wears floral top, £52, Finger in the Nose; skirt, £128, Parrot; and shoes, model’s own
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fashion / miami Naomi wears denim shirt, £50, and metallic shorts, £80, both Finger in the Nose; socks, £8.30, J Crew; sandals £115, Stella McCartney; and sequined visor, stylist’s own. Stella wears metallic biker jacket, £80, Finger in the Nose; metallic top, £95, and skirt, £127, both My Little Dress Up; socks, £5.99 for six pairs, H&M; and wedge trainers, £155, Ash
Shot on location in Epic Hotel, 11th Street Diner, Five Guys Burgers and Fries, Gale South Beach Hotel, Art Basel Miami, James Hotel and Leslie Hotel, Miami, Florida
Opposite page Regan wears spotty dress, £335, Dolce & Gabbana; socks, £5.99 for six pairs, H&M; patent shoes, £54, Start-rite; and hairband, stylist’s own. Stella wears floral striped jacket, £265, Dolce and Gabbana; bow-print jumpsuit, £50, How to Kiss a Frog; sandals, £36, Start-rite; and fascinator, stylist’s own
Photographer: Monica Skeisvoll. Styling: Kate van der Hage at Era Management. Hair and grooming: Vickie Granado at Creative Management @ MC2, using Make Up For Ever and Oribe. Models: Aspen, Devon, Eian, Kia, Naomi, Regan, Roman, Satine, Scarlet and Stella at Age Models. With thanks to: Mike at mdjfoto.com and Nick at N House Productions
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Shot on location in Epic Hotel, 11th Street Diner, Five Guys Burgers and Fries, Gale South Beach Hotel, Art Basel Miami, James Hotel and Leslie Hotel, Miami, Florida
STOCKISTS American Apparel store.americanapparel.co.uk Antik Batik bibaloo.com Ash selfridges.com Bobo Choses bobochoses.com Bang Bang Copenhagen bangbangcph.dk Converse schuh.co.uk Dolce & Gabbana dolcegabbana.com/child East End Highlanders notsobigshop.com Elfie elfielondon.com Finger in the Nose smallable.com GapKids gap.co.uk H&M hm.com/gb How To Kiss a Frog howtokissafrog.com J Crew jcrew.com Kidscase kidscase.com Little Eleven selfridges.com La Coqueta lacoquetakids.com Little Remix designersremix.com Marks & Spencer marksandspencer.com Mini Boden boden.co.uk Mini Rodini minirodini.com Molo childrensalon.com My Little Dress Up mylittledressup.com Next next.co.uk No Added Sugar noaddedsugar.com Parrot childrensalon. com Petit Bateau petit-bateau.co.uk River Island riverisland.com Rokit rokit.co.uk Soft Gallery smallable.com Scotch Shrunk alexandalexa.com Start-rite startriteshoes.com Stella McCartney stellamccartney.com Tatty Devine tattydevine.com Vans vans.co.uk Wildfox harrods.com
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SHOP.FAMILYTRAVELLER.COM Bradley bike bag, £190 Brighten up your morning commute with this cheerful Hill & Ellis bike bag
Striped badges T-shirt, £25 Little rascals will love this No Added Sugar T-shirt
GET SET FOR SPRING It may not feel like it, but spring is on its way. At shop.familytraveller.com,, we’ve got everything you need to kit out your family
Wild West wigwam, £220 Garden play just got stylish with this Kiddiewinkles play tent
Ladybird hardshell trolley case, £49.99 Kids will love pulling along one of these adorable Cuties and Pals suitcases Scent-free sun lotion SPF25, £16.95 Protect young skin from the sun with this high-SPF Organic Children lotion
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Indian Paisley swimsuit, £38 Try this relaxed boho-style Sunuva swimsuit for your next beach holiday
Gorilla in bow tie print, £18 Revamp your little monkey’s room with a whimsical print from Little Dandies
Sunshine summer dress, £42 This Wild Things summer dress will brighten up any play date
Organic cotton towels, £37 These hand-woven Nadine Rose towels are lightweight, soft and highly absorbent
Pocket dress, £44 This cute Wild Things dress can be worn on its own, or as a pinafore
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WIN A FAMILY HOLIDAY TO THE BEACHES OF FORT MYERS & SANIBEL WORTH UP TO £4,500
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arrive, you’ll feel connected to the people and unspoilt nature around you. Watch dolphins play in the wake of your boat. Glide beneath the shade of mangroves on a guided kayak tour of the Great Calusa Blueway. Paddle inches from manatees bobbing near the water’s surface, or spy on them at Manatee Park. Spot pink Roseate Spoonbills and more than 300 kinds of birds in the JN ‘Ding’ Darling National Wildlife Refuge, the largest undeveloped mangrove ecosystem in the USA. Hundreds of secluded islands – some uninhabited and accessible only by boat or seaplane – dot the coastline like tiny jewels. Exploring the islands is a must for any visitor, whether visiting the private island of Cabbage Key for lunch or learning to sail or fish for Tarpon – it really is a great experience. Each community has its own personality, with bohemian beachside craft stores in Sanibel and Captiva, nature parks and al fresco cafés to watch the world go by in Fort Myers Beach, while collectively offering healthy doses of peace and
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Mini Boden make makes fun British clothes for boys and girls aged 0 to 12. It’s best known for its famous appliqués and the colourful characters that appear on its clothes. Good clothes should be tough enough to take on the rough and tumble, whether that means wash cycles or cartwheels. Mini Boden’s customers love that its clothes last and last. ‘When my toddlers outgrew their clothes, I passed them on to two others and they still look as good as new,’ says one mum. ‘I defy anybody to provide more value.’ Whether worn on a windswept British beach or on sunnier shores, Mini Boden’s spring range is filled with everything a little holiday-maker needs, including towelling hoodies, sun-safe rash vests, fun swimwear and day-brightening layers (just in case).
Visit boden.co.uk to see the spring range
17/12/2014 09:06
JOIN US ON OUR PLAYGROUND SELF-CATERING FAMILY HOLIDAYS ON THE NORTH CORNWALL COAST
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BEAUTY HEAVEN SCENT
EYE HOPES
Revive tired eyes after a long-haul flight with Crème de la Mer The Illuminating Eye Gel, £85. Maximise the benefits of the brightening algae by applying in gentle tapping movements around the eye socket. worlddutyfree.com
ETERNAL FLAME
Jo Malone’s Wanderlust home collection celebrates the impulse to travel and memories of distant lands. We love the Cardamom & Moroccan Rose Home Candle, £33.60, which is designed to transport you to the foothills of the Atlas Mountains. worlddutyfree.com
S U I TA B LE FO R HAND BAGGAGE
If your other half didn’t excel himself on the Christmas gifting front, suggest he rectify the situation with a bottle of Gucci Guilty Diamond, £68. gucci.com
BEAUTY NEWS SOPHIE QURESHI picks her favourite travel-friendly beauty buys
ABOUT FACE
GREAT VALUE FO R MO N EY
New research suggests that stress, pollution and tiredness can make us look noticeably older in the space of just 12 hours. Thank goodness for Vichy Liftactiv Supreme, £31, which ‘drip-feeds’ skin with collagenboosting ingredients, antioxidants to protect and caffeine to fight skin fatigue. vichy.co.uk
Chloé Love Story, £52, is inspired by Parisian romance and the love locks on the Pont des Arts, which are subtly referenced in the bottle’s padlock shape. chloe.com
PHOTOGRAPH: SHUTTERSTOCK
LIP SERVICE
Ditch your usual lip balm and try Clarins Instant Light Lip Comfort Oils, £18, instead. They really do feel comforting to apply (quite addictively so, in fact) and they give lips a lovely sheen, without the gloop or stickiness of a lip gloss. clarins.co.uk
Moschino Toy, £64, is a cheeky fragrance atomiser. The unisex scent is a grown-up blend of mandarin, bergamot, and violet. moschino.com
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A HEALTHY
START Book a feel-better break for the whole family and beat the back-to-work January blues, says SOPHIE QURESHI
The family-friendly spa
If you’re desperate for some pampering, but don’t feel you can leave the kids while you check in to a spa, book a few days for the whole family at the Château Saint-Martin & Spa on the Côte d’Azur in the south of France. The spa has a menu of treatments for kids (little girls will love the Princess Nails manicure, while the Like Daddy massage is perfect for calming hyperactive boys). Just don’t get them too used to the spa lifestyle. Treatments cost from £24 to £78. Rooms from £275 per night, including breakfast (chateau-st-martin.com)
The wellbeing makeover
With an in-house psychologist, a dietician, a ‘hair doctor’ and even a resident shaman, borgo egna zia, italy if Borgo Egnazia in Puglia, Italy, can’t make you feel like a new woman, nowhere can. This super-stylish but also fabulously child-friendly destination is styled around a traditional borgo (village) and offers every treatment imaginable, including some pretty wacky ones, such as Nu Suun Vair music therapy, which can be done as a family to encourage harmony (excuse the pun). For kids who aren’t up for anything quite so alternative, there are tennis lessons, wakeboarding, kayaking and heaps of other activities to keep them off the wi-fi, leaving you free to detox, lose a few extra pounds or just feel like you again. Rooms from £173 per night (borgoegnazia.com)
martin, france
château saint-
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BEAUTY The yoga retreat
A relaxing holiday with the kids might sound like a contradiction in terms, but at Alila Villas Soori in Bali, it’s possible. The resort’s three-, five- and seven-day Relaxology retreats involve a schedule of soothing Balinese spa alila villas soor i, bali treatments, gentle yoga and pleasantly distracting craft workshops. While you practise your sun salutations, the kids can discover new experiences of their own with a range of Journeys for Little Ones, which include making traditional Balinese kites to fly on the beach, painting with a local artist or donning an apron with the resort’s pastry chef. Just try not to undo all the benefits of your raw-food menu. Three-bedroom villa from £416 per night (alilahotels.com)
The active adventure
If you’re after an epic family expedition or just a sure-fire way to exhaust the kids, book the Healthy Holiday Company’s five-day hiking, biking and climbing package in the Italian Dolomites es, italy it (spring or summer’s m lo do e h t the best time to go). Start in picturesque Val Badia, where you can wind along cycle paths through scenic villages, forests and meadows (perhaps looping in the odd zip-line or two for restless teenagers). Then you can hike in the fossil-studded Bletterbach Gorge, or take to the exhilarating high-wire via ferrata. From £2,420 per person, full board, including all equipment and the services of a mountain guide (thehealthyholidaycompany.co.uk).
The boutique bootcamp
If you find it impossible to focus on your own fitness and wellbeing when you’ve got a family to look after, pack the kids off to their grandparents and book yourself and a girlfriend onto a NuBeginnings Retreat. Unlike most bootcamps, this one doesn’t go in for military-style intimidation and back-tobasics bunk beds. You stay in a luxe mansion on the North Devon coast, and the food is all locally sourced and organic. There are never more than nine people on a retreat, so you get lots of personal attention. One week costs from £2,295 (nubeginnings.co.uk)
north devon
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More Us Time See more. Discover more. Remember more. At Inntravel, we believe family holidays should last forever, not just two weeks. Our self- guided, luggage -free walking and cycling holidays let you explore some of Europe’s unspoiled countryside together, at your own pace. With hand - picked, family- friendly guest houses and hotels, and family-friendly itineries, we think you’ll find the best family holidays are Slow family holidays, from Inntravel.
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16/12/2014 09:30
POINT OF VIEW
T
SIMON REEVE
Gently does it, when it comes to introducing children the joys of wild swimming
he river was dark and inviting under the beating Devon sun. I leapt off the jetty and disappeared briefly under the water, emerging to see my son watching me sceptically. ‘Nooooooo,’ he said. He wouldn’t be joining me. Swimming is something we’re taking our time over. I worry that if I force him to do something and then it goes wrong he might develop a complete terror of water. I grew up taking holidays to Studland Beach in Dorset, one of the finest in the country, and I spent months of my young life messing about on the waves. Studland gave me the confidence to become a competitive swimmer, representing London as a teenager. Even now, I can keep pace with a dawdling turtle under the waves. I pray that Jake will feel equally at home in the wet. We had an upsetting moment on holiday in Spain last year where he stumbled backwards, fell into a small baby pool and began to sink. I jumped towards him even before he hit the water. But as he went down, face upright, our eyes locked, and I saw the mortality of my tiny, terrified man. Part of me expected his survival instinct to kick in, but water can be a killer. I grabbed him and hoisted him to the side. He spluttered for a second, had a hug and carried on playing.
Maybe it’s only me who is traumatised by the memory, but since then, we’ve been gently highlighting the fun that can be had in water, rather than making him enjoy it. On a gloriously sunny day last summer, we went with friends for a picnic by the spring-fed Goldiggins Quarry on Bodmin Moor. It’s a natural amphitheatre with flat rocks, perfect for hurling yourself into bracing water the colour of jade.
MOST OF THE TIME JAKE’S BEEN RUNNING AROUND THE EDGE OF THE POOL AND HITTING ME ON THE HEAD WITH FOAM HAMMERS RATHER THAN GETTING WET The older children braved the chill, swimming, diving and leaping from giddying heights. Jake just shuddered. Wild swimming is a joy I hope he will embrace. But at the moment Jake is still at the paddling and dabbling stage. Even in Greece last year, when the temperature out of the water meant the sea was a blessed relief, he just wanted to potter around the water’s edge and chuck stones and sand at the waves.
Through the winter we’ve been playing at the local swimming pool. Most of the time Jake’s been running around the edge and hitting me on the head with foam hammers rather than getting into the water. But last week we had a revelation. He fell off me while trying to climb onto my head, and landed on his feet in the water. He looked at me with amazement. ‘I can stand,’ he said, as the water lapped at his chin. ‘I can stand up!’ he said again. The boost in his confidence was immediate and amazing. Now he’s jumping off the side of the pool into the water and walking slowly back to the steps. This summer, I suspect he’ll be leaping off that jetty into the river on his own, and into the inky depths. ■ To read more of Simon Reeve’s columns, visit familytraveller.com Parents should go into the water first and check for rocks and holes. Choose a spot with an easy way out of the water for children rather than a steep bank. Lightweight swimming shoes are a good idea, so kids don’t have to worry about where they put their feet. TV adventurer and author Simon Reeve is the presenter of multiple BBC TV series, including Sacred Rivers, Indian Ocean, Tropic of Cancer and Australia. His next series is Caribbean. simonreeve.co.uk
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SUNDAY BES T P RESENTS
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POINT OF VIEW
MARIELLA FROSTRUP Much as we love our children, it’s great to have some time away from them – and for them to have some time away from us
PHOTOGRAPHS: JASON McCUE
A
t nine and 10, our children are already desperate to get away from us; that is, until the moment that we give any indication of feeling likewise about them. Then, no matter how well-constructed our plans to claw out some R&R, or how casually we throw in the idea of aqua Olympics, arts and crafts or insect-gathering forays into the holiday equation, their hackles rise. We’d all but given up hope of ever spending quality adult time together during school holidays until last summer, when we opted for the route embraced by American friends, and suggested a new skill for them to master, presented with the spin of greater independence. We booked them on a sailing course, extolling the wonders of the freedom of the open sea. We based ourselves at a friend’s cottage on the Solent, and packed them off to Lymington every morning with a packed lunch. I admit we were in the middle of a heat wave, and the windwhipped, rain-lashed reality of a true yachtie induction was enhanced by a near Caribbean idyll of blue skies and bright sunshine requiring lashings of sun cream. Far from groaning and feigning illness, they seemed to understand the world of possibility that steering your own little
SCUBA DIVING WASN’T THE CHEAPEST WAY OF KEEPING THE CHILDREN OCCUPIED, BUT IT BOUGHT US SOME SNOOZE TIME laser could bring. They felt the wind of liberation blowing in their sails and proved themselves excellent little learners. Emboldened by this success, which left us free to idle away our days from 9am to 4pm, facilitating our most relaxing holiday in years, we’re now converts to hobbies that last into adulthood but should be mastered while young. My childhood was of a povertystricken 1970s variety, where leisure time simply meant keeping out from under the adults’ feet. I grew up more than capable of killing time, but a disaster when it came to the leisure accomplishments familiar to the well-heeled and privately educated. Tennis, skiing, surfing, diving, sailing, even decent swimming strokes, were all picked up late and with large helpings of humiliation. I remain the only adult on earth with the tennis serve of a toddler.
This half term we were invited to the tiny island of Vamizi, off the coast of Mozambique, where we invested in another life-enhancing qualification for our reluctant duo. In this ocean paradise, where schools of spinner dolphins leapt in the waves, humpback whales erupted from tranquil seas and coral reportedly flourished in near biblical quantities, we did some underwater exploration. With only the tiniest groan from Molly, they set off each morning and afternoon for scuba-diving instruction. It wasn’t the cheapest way of keeping the children occupied, but it bought us some snooze time, and on our final day we set out on our first family dive. Tears of happiness streaked down the inside of my mask as I watched my two minnows zooming around among the tropical fish, gaping at moray eels and distant reef sharks, as comfortable in the ocean after three days as I am after three decades of practice. With the ease and fearlessness of youth, they slipped effortlessly into their gear, bearing tanks bigger than their torsos and zoomed off like creatures from Atlantis. ■ To read more of Mariella Frostrup’s columns, visit familytraveller.com Mariella Frostrup is the presenter of Open Book on Radio 4
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ON TOP OF THE WORLD
It’s a new year, and if you’ve been pondering a life change, how about a round-the-world trip with your kids? CAROLYNNE WATSON did just that, and it was an education for the whole family
At the summit of Whistler Mountain, Canada
D
on’t gamble with time. That’s what ran through our minds when we impetuously booked our family round-the world tickets one cold, wet winter morning, giving ourselves just six weeks to prepare. We didn’t want to wake up in retirement, our kids fully grown with children of their own, and regret not having followed our dreams. We’re a family of four – mum, dad and two kids, five and seven – who set off on a six-month worldwide adventure, visiting south-east Asia and North and South America in search of family memories that would last a lifetime. The uninterrupted time together, away from the obligations of everyday life, forged an unbreakable bond and respect for one another.
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In 2013, my husband Pete and I both lost our jobs. I took some rare time away from the family on a week’s break to Goa to take stock. When I returned, I knew we’d been handed a gift, that this was the perfect time to take our kids travelling. We wanted to open their eyes to the world early in their childhood to broaden their understanding of what’s around them and the endless opportunities ahead. It felt like a now-or-never moment. Childhood is a precious but finite time, and we wanted to immerse ourselves in the development of our children’s growing minds and be there at the moments when their eyes lit up in wonderment. We’ve learnt that extended travel with kids is possible, and it’s enormously fulfilling. It will shape their and your minds for ever.
family traveller.com 17/12/2014 11:40
ROUND-THE-WORLD
THE WATSON FAMILY’S TOP 10 1 Trekking the wilds of Torres del Paine National Park, Chile. 2 Seeing black bears up close and snacking on crabs at the shore’s edge in Tofino, Canada. 3 Navigating between icebergs and being within touching distance of one of the world’s last remaining advancing glaciers, Perito Moreno, in El Calafate, Argentina. 4 Playing with hermit crabs on the deserted beaches of Koh Rong Samloem, Cambodia. 5 Seeing, hearing and feeling the thunderous roar of Iguazu Falls in Argentina. 6 Cuddling koalas, and our friends and relatives, in Australia. 7 Riding the trolley cars and soaking up the sights of San Francisco, USA. 8 Participating in the family-friendly Full Moon Festival in the beautiful UNESCO World Heritage Site Hoi An, Vietnam. 9 Admiring the breathtaking view of towering skyscrapers from The Peak, Hong Kong. 10 Cruising the Pacific Coast Highway from San Francisco to Seattle, USA.
Ben zipwiring in Canada
CONDORS, NOT CLASSROOMS
Pete and I had travelled extensively after university, so had an idea of what to expect – or so we thought. What we hadn’t appreciated was how much richer an experience it would be. When you’re a family with small children, you’re far more approachable. It’s as if parenthood is a shared language, and families from other cultures open their doors and hearts to you. It’s not all rosy, however. Spending every waking hour together does take its toll occasionally. Sharing one room, typically with two double beds between four, can test your patience. The real sense of freedom came when enjoying the great outdoors. Exploring the wilds of Torres del Paine in Patagonia was especially memorable. We
On the Golden Gate Bridge, USA
as a family with small children, you’re so much more approachable family traveller.com
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AN EDUCATION ON THE MOVE
We set up our own pop-up schools in the strangest of locations. Our favourite was a station in Dong Hoi, Vietnam, when our train was five hours late. Out came the diaries, pens and paper, and local children and train staff gathered around and joined in, too. We’ve collected shells on the beach and sorted them into rows to explain multiplication, we’ve chanted times tables while climbing mountains, we’ve learnt all about food chains while trekking through the jungle, geology while scrambling over glaciers and desert land in Argentina, and learnt to say at least ‘please’ and ‘thank you’ in the local language of all of the places we visited. The one thing we tried to encourage the children to do every day was write their diaries. At the time, we met with a lot of resistance, but these books are now prized. They have read out extracts from their diaries in class and shared them with family and friends with pride.
BACK TO SCHOOL
Of course, we were nervous about taking them out of school, especially as we had to reapply for their places on our return. It was a calculated risk, but we were lucky there wasn’t a waiting list for either of their year groups. They started the school term in September and have settled back seamlessly. According to their teachers, their schoolwork has not been affected. Travelling with a young family teaches you to live in the moment. We asked Benjamin, seven, and Hannah, five, almost daily, what their favourite part of the trip had been, and they almost always responded the same: they would both recall the very last thing we had done, not because they couldn’t remember further back, but because they lapped up every second of every day. Here’s the thing: kids have faith and trust that everything will unfold as it’s supposed to. Adults spend too much time worrying about the future and evaluating the past. Some planning is necessary, of course, but when it leaves no room for spontaneity, the balance tips. The best parts of our trip took shape on the open road, when we took a wrong turn or after a recommendation from a local sent us on an entirely different path. Travelling with our family has changed the way we live; we now know anything is possible. Pete and I are actively reigniting our careers, and having no income is an uncomfortable feeling, but we have renewed selfconfidence. We did something most people never do. I’ve lost count of the times I’ve heard people say, ‘There aren’t enough hours in the day,’ and, ‘If only I could buy time.’ Well, you can: it’s called travel. So, don’t silence your wanderlust when you start a family. Discover the world together and cherish your shared experiences.
travel with our family changed the way we live
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AND HERE’S HOW WE DID IT…
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hoosing when and where to go is where all the excitement begins, and it’s the best time to get the kids involved. You’ll be travelling as a family, so plan together. Ben chose Cambodia because he’d just finished reading an adventure book about Angkor Wat, and really wanted to see the temples and imagine himself as the character in the book. Hannah didn’t really have a concept of travel, so she chose places based on the animals she wanted to see. Kangaroos were top of her list, so we added Australia to our itinerary. Pete wanted to trek in the wilds of Patagonia in Argentina, and I had always dreamed of exploring Canada’s stunning national parks. We added in a few more countries from our bucket list, and our route was complete.
Hannah takes a breather at Angkor Wat
THAILAND
Arriving in vibrant, intoxicating Bangkok was our first taste of how well the kids would adapt to unfamiliar surroundings. They were intrigued and mesmerised by the different sights, sounds and tastes. We quickly learnt that even in the most testing of circumstances, if you keep your cool, the kids take your lead and remain unfazed. We had just four nights here before we crossed the border into Cambodia, but we experienced the famous Chatuchak Weekend Market, Wat Phra Kaew (Temple of the Emerald Buddha) and Wat Pho, home to the gigantic reclining Buddha. We climbed the Khmer-style spire of Wat Arun, navigated the hustle and bustle of Chinatown and zipped around in tuk-tuks. The tuk-tuks of Bangkok
PHOTOGRAPH: AWL IMAGES
walked for days in this stunning national park without seeing another soul. Teaching the kids to listen to silence while condors swooped overhead was magical. We have seen first hand that learning happens all day, every day, with little need for formal teaching. Travel builds children’s self-confidence, teaching them resourcefulness, cultural sensitivity, social skills and empathy – and all of this without a classroom in sight.
family traveller.com 17/12/2014 11:41
ROUND-THE-WORLD
Angkor Wat, Cambodia
thousands of lanterns adorned the streets and river in hoi an
CAMBODIA
PHOTOGRAPH: AWL IMAGES
Cambodia stole our hearts, from the majesty of Angkor Wat, to the pristine beaches of the islands off the Sihanoukville coast and the frenetic buzz of Phnom Penh. Away from the major tourist spots, the sleepy agricultural communities gave a glimpse of the real Cambodia. We felt very safe here, and the children were treated with real warmth. It’s impossible not to be in awe of the temples, and the kids’ imaginations ran wild marvelling at the jungle claiming back the land, enveloping the towering structures. For us, though, we found our slice of paradise on Koh Rong Samloem island, where sea meets jungle. There are no roads, pavements or shops here, and there’s electricity for just a few hours a day.
Making friends in Cambodia
Taking part in the Full Moon Festival in Hoi An
VIETNAM
We crossed the border into Vietnam at Ha Tien in the south – not the easiest of crossings, and not to be recommended – Hannah tries the and the change was local headgear marked. It’s fast paced here, loud, commercial and developing at breakneck speed. There’s no doubt that if you’re after a cultural smorgasbord, Vietnam delivers. Meandering through the Mekong Delta, exploring the impressive cave systems in Phong Nha-Ke Bang National Park and stumbling upon the family-friendly Full Moon Festival in historic Hoi An, where thousands of lanterns adorned the streets and river, were our highlights. The food was incredible, too – delicious, wholesome and bursting with flavour. Ben and Pete took a cookery course, and Pete and Ben both kids mastered the enjoy a cookery art of using chopsticks. class together
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A Mother’s Day meal at the Jumbo Kingdom restaurant
ARGENTINA & CHILE HONG KONG
We flew out of the chaotic Vietnamese capital Hanoi into Hong Kong, and what a difference a four-hour flight can make. This place runs like clockwork. From the moment we passed through immigration, it was as if we were gliding on wheels to our hotel room in Kowloon. We’d decided to treat ourselves for our brief stay in Hong Kong, pre-booking Hotel Panorama and, true to its name, the views were dazzling. In three days we squeezed in Nan Lian Garden, Chi Lin Nunnery, the bird and flower markets, Victoria Peak, the Science Museum to catch up on schoolwork, and the Jumbo Kingdom floating restaurant in Aberdeen Harbour for Mother’s Day.
AUSTRALIA
We were two months into our trip now, and the kids needed a breather. Cue, Australia, our home from home. Pete and I have lived and worked in Australia and we have family and friends here. To stay in a home setting, to empty our bags, wash all our clothes, cook for ourselves and get cold milk out of the fridge was a welcome reprieve from life on the road. We were here for just 10 days – five days in Noosa, on the Sunshine Coast, and five days in Sydney.
Cuddles with a koala
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Batteries charged, metaphorically and literally, we crossed the International Date Line and arrived in Santiago, Chile, 20 minutes before we left Sydney, after a 12-hour 40-minute flight. I still can’t get my head around that. The next six weeks were spent zig-zagging across the border between Chile and Argentina, first heading south on a memorable flight over the Andes to Puerto Varas, the Chilean lake district, before crossing to Bariloche, the chocolate capital of Argentina, just in time for the Easter Bunny to visit. The Road of the Seven Lakes starts from here, a journey of extraordinary beauty winding through striking mountain vistas and crystal-clear lakes. Heading south before the weather turned, after a 26-hour bus journey, we made it to El Calafate, and as we sailed around the Patagonian glaciers, spotted our first icebergs. Little did we know the best was yet to come as we took the ‘Road to the End of the World’, crossing back into Chile to visit the wilds of Torres del Paine National Park. Argentina continued to delight. We flew to Buenos Aires to soak up its electric atmosphere and used this as our base to visit the other-worldly Iguazu Falls, the desert lands north of Salta and to experience Gaucho culture on an estancia in San Antonio de Areco.
At the thundering Iguazu Falls, Argentina
Breathtaking landscapes at Torres del Paine National Park, Argentina
family traveller.com 17/12/2014 11:41
ROUND-THE-WORLD Enjoying the fresh air, high on Whistler Mountain
CANADA
Hannah takes in the lush Lassen Volcanic National Park
USA
After an overnight in Dallas, we flew to San Francisco and took five weeks to drive through northern California, Oregon and Washington State to Seattle. San Francisco lived up to all of our expectations, and the kids especially loved the trolley cars, walking across the Golden Gate, mooching around in Alamo Square and Haight and Ashbury, gawping at the sealions at Fisherman’s Wharf and even the tour of Alcatraz. Heading north on Highway 1 we hugged the dramatic California and Oregon coastlines, weaving inland to take in Lake Tahoe, Lassen Volcanic National Park, Crater Lake and Portland, before dropping off the hire car in Seattle, where we took the Riding the boat to Canada. San Francisco
Day one in Canada and the welcoming committee was a pod of orca whales. Just a few days later, still on Vancouver Island, we saw black bears and bald eagles in their natural habitat. For our daughter, a serious animal lover, this was heaven. As we travelled eastwards from Vancouver to Banff National Park, before looping up towards Jasper and then back to Vancouver via Whistler, there was an endless variety of stunning scenery and unusual microclimates, including Canada’s only desert, Osoyoos, in the Okanagan Valley in British Columbia. The highlight was driving the Icefields Parkway between Lake Louise and Jasper and taking the huge Ice Explorer truck onto the Athabasca Glacier. For our final two weeks, we flew east to Toronto, then on to Ottawa, Montreal and gorgeous Quebec. While at the home of Cirque du Soleil, we rounded off our trip with a show at the world-famous tent, where the skill of the acrobats had us on the edge of our seats. ■
Ben and Hannah gaze out over Lake Louise
a pod of orca welcomes us to canada
Not your usual bus: the Ice Explorer truck on the Athabasca Glacier
trolley bus
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OMAN the perfect arabian playground
Year-round sunshine, glorious beaches, culture, history and adventure make Oman an ideal destination for families and Turquoise Holidays are the experts to take you there.
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t u r q uo
ar r ive ise top tip par agli i n s t yle and reso rt de i n to t he fo r che ck-i n
illustration: chris corr
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man is something of a newcomer to the international tourism market and, unlike neighbouring Dubai, is taking it all at a dignified pace, protecting its heritage before rushing headlong into development. This is good news for holidaymakers, because 90 per cent of the hotels are owned by Oman nationals and the power of the tourist pound goes directly into local communities. The capital, Muscat, is a clean city with a low-line horizon of shops and houses. Much of the country’s history lies inland, which can only be accessed by car or on foot; there is no railway network and most roads are less than a decade
old. There is a network of local buses (with very posh bus shelters) across the country, but most people travel in shiny, white cars. There’s a school in every village today, but before 1970 there were only three government, male-only, primary schools in the whole country. In just under 40 years, that has risen to more than 1,000, educating girls as well as boys. Oman has developed into a progressive country while honouring its Islamic traditions. It has a conspicuous culture that you don’t encounter in the neighbouring United Arab Emirates. And it offers a treasure trove of experiences for families. It’s sunny, clean and safe, with very little crime, and exceptionally friendly – more than half the population speaks English.
Six Senses Zighy Bay
For tailormade holidays to Oman contact the team of experts at Turquoise Holidays on 01494 678400
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MUSCAT
BUSTLING PORT CITY
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uscat is a bustling port that has always been celebrated for its hospitality. Renowned for its stunning architecture and spotless streets, silk bazaars and souks, it’s the perfect starting point for visitors. The Grand Mosque, built by Sultan Qaboos in the late 1990s, is one of the most popular attractions, but there are plenty of others, from the Al-Mirani Fort to the Bait Al Zubair Museum and the Qasr Al Alam Royal Palace to Al-Riyam Park, where you will find a huge white frankincense burner. Kids of all ages love the drama of the kaleidoscopic underwater world or playing on the beautiful beaches. A little further afield, the former capital city of Nizwa is fantastic on a Friday – market day – when the surrounding population turn out to market their wares and livestock. Muscat has two main family-oriented hotels, and a boutique option for those looking for more minimalist style. The vast (640-room) Shangri-La Barr al Jissah Resort, which is really three hotels rolled into one luxury mega-resort, sits beside a 600m private beach. For families, the best choice is the unfussy Al Waha section with its complex of interconnecting shallow pools and a lazy
river where kids can let off steam, when they’re not in the kids’ club or dive club. The second is the iconic Al Bustan Palace Hotel. Sitting in an oasis between the beach and mountains, it’s like a Sultan’s palace from the Arabian Nights. Its opalescent dome, turrets and archways shimmer at night as There is a whole other searchlights criss-cross starry skies. world to explore The cavernous lobby could easily beneath the waves host a conference of Sinbad and the original sultans of swing. Its friendly service and fine selection of restaurants, including Muscat’s best Chinese, mean it is well set up for children. Tennis and diving are good options for teenagers. The Chedi is Muscat’s answer to boutique beauty. If you’re a pool lizard rather than a beach babe, WHEN TO GO then this aesthete’s hangout is The best time to visit Oman is the one for you, especially if you between September and May. June, July and August are particularly prefer to create your own activities rather hot, but no hotter than Dubai. Rainfall than enrol the kids in a club. It’s also great varies according to the region, for foodies, with nine restaurants from but stays low throughout the year. Mediterranean and Middle Eastern to Asian or casual barefoot in the sand. Three HOW TO GET THERE pools, Muscat’s largest health club, and There are daily direct flights a menu of Balinese spa therapies, Indian with Oman Air throughout the year Ayurveda and indigenous rituals are (flying time seven hours). among the temptations. The four-hour time difference makes it manageable for children to adjust quickly, and a week’s holiday is The Grand Mosque, Muscat completely viable. The team at Turquoise Holidays is dedicated to creating bespoke E TOP TIP experiences in Oman for families of TURQUO IS all ages and levels of adventure. Call 01494 678400 or visit turquoiseholidays.co.uk. For more information on Oman visit omantourism.gov.om
kids of all ages love the drama of the underwater world or playing on the beaches
Al Bustan Palace Hotel, Muscat
M USCAT ’S E X P L O R E E R I TA G E ISLAMI C H LTURE AND CU
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There’s lots for children to see and do
Alila Jabal Akhdar
Hajar mountains oasis villages and date groves
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he southern slopes of the Hajar Mountains, which drop from more than 3,000m straight into the Gulf, are famous for their oasis villages and date groves. They are in stark contrast to the sand dunes of the sparsely populated Wahiba desert. The brand new Alila Jabal Akhdar, up in the cool mountain air of Jabal Al Akhdar, is a sanctuary of peace and space. The stillness of the surrounding area infiltrates every inch of the hotel where camouflaged rooms crafted from local stone have spectacular views across the infinity pool down the canyon. All the more amazing, then, that it’s thrown open its doors to families, who flock here to chill out both mentally and physically – the temperature is 10°C cooler than on the coast. The scenic, rugged coast south of Muscat has deep sapphire waters entwined with coves that hide white, sandy beaches. It’s a hot, arid and unforgiving shoreline, but exceedingly beautiful. South of Sur, Raz al Jinz is Oman’s most easterly point and a mecca for green turtles. West of Sur, the vast Wahiba desert of undulating sand rises up to 200m. An off-road, roller-coaster ride across
the ever-changing dunes towards the Desert Nights Camp will get you all screaming with excitement. At the other end of the country, Dhofar’s lush greenery, waterfalls and streams are unique in the Gulf, thanks to the hydrating Khareef monsoon. From the first to third centuries, this part of Oman was the wealthiest region in the world due to its trade in horses and frankincense. Situated on the coast, Salalah’s unspoilt beaches offer a range of watersports and diving activities. Several luxury familyfriendly resorts have opened along this stretch of coast – and dozens more are due to open over the next few years. If accommodation at sea for a night or two floats your boat, why not sail away with Oman Charter on its eight-person catamaran? Teenagers often vote it their favourite Omani experience and the friendly captain and skipper will keep all amused with card games and paddle board races at sunset. The stunning Daymanyiat Islands nature reserve is a relatively new discovery for tourists, and you may still be lucky enough to have the bay to yourselves – apart from the local hawksbill turtles and abundant birdlife.
Desert Nights Camp Alila Jabal Akhdar
For tailormade holidays to Oman contact the team of experts at Turquoise Holidays on 01494 678400
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The Hajaar Mountains
Desert Nights Camp
Making rose water
FAMILY FUN JOURNEY OF OMAN WITH TURQUOISE
DAY 1 Arrival transfer to Shangri-La Barr al Jissah, Al Waha Hotel DAY 2 Day at leisure DAY 3 Half-day city tour DAY 4 Dolphin-watching trip DAY 5 Muscat – Nizwa – Jabal Akhdar: overnight stay at Alila Jabal Akhdar DAY 6 Jabal Akhdar excursion in a 4x4 vehicle DAY 7 Day at leisure DAY 8 Jabal Akhdar – Wahiba: overnight stay at Desert Nights Camp DAY 9 Wahiba – Wadi Bani Khalid – Ras al Jinz: overnight stay at Ras al Jinz DAY 10 Ras al Jinz – Sur – Muscat: overnight stay at Chedi Muscat DAY 11 Day at leisure DAY 12 Departure transfer
This itinerary costs from £8,829 for a family of four, including international flights with Oman Air and private transfers, with Turquoise Holidays
Ras al Jinz
Feeding goats as Six Senses Zighy Bay
The Chedi Muscat
01494 678400 turquoiseholidays.co.uk/oman enquiries@turquoiseholidays.co.uk
The local wildlife
omantourism.gov.om
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ADVERTISEMENT FEATURE Pool villa at Six Senses Zighy Bay
MUSANDAM AND SIX SENSES ZIGHY BAY DRAMATIC COASTLINE
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here is lots more to explore if you’re considering an extended stay. Starkly beautiful Musandam, the northern-most region of Oman, is segregated from the rest the country by the east coast of the UAE (like passing through Canada to reach Alaska). Six Senses Zighy Bay lies along the coast of the Musandam Peninsula and is therefore more easily accessed via Dubai rather than Muscat. It’s no surprise that this is where Six Senses has chosen to locate its stunning family-friendly hideaway. Zighy Bay is a secluded spot between the crystal-clear Gulf of Oman and the Hajar Mountains, an area often referred to as the Norway of the Middle East due to its fjord-like landscape. Renowned for its marine environment, the coast offers excellent diving and snorkelling. As well as colourful fish and coral, the Gulf of Oman is home Beach cinema, Six to green turtles, humpback dolphins, Senses Zighy Bay hammerhead sharks and whale sharks – a snorkeller’s paradise that’s guaranteed to make children squeal with delight.
The 79 pool villas at Zighy Bay are a blend of the traditional Omani village style, combined with luxury, modern amenities. They offer families a spacious environment with rustic-chic decor. It is the Gulf ’s first eco boutique hotel, and blends well with its surroundings. The staff are proud of their environmental management and hope to contribute to the sustainable development of the local community – a good template for things to come and a concept that children of all ages embrace with open arms. ■
GO FISHING
Much of Oman’s heritage and culture are attached to the sea. You can catch fish just minutes from the mainland, but you can also cast your line for a giant grouper, tuna or trevally from the ocean floor 200m below. The government runs a ‘common-sense’ designated fishing season to ensure that stocks are not depleted. Free divers harvest abalone (a mussel-type shellfish, worth £10/kg) only in November. At Six Senses, a catch-andrelease system is in place for all fish.
STEP INTO ANOTHER WORLD
Elaborate forts, castles and watch towers punctuate the landscape. Step inside and imagine life in a desert oasis. Follow ancient trade routes and watch tadpoles swim along the beautifully engineered aflaj surface canals that have watered Oman’s crops for millennia, threading their way through villages and along precipitous cliff faces. Six Senses Zighy Bay
TURQUO ISE T OP TIP
TA K E A N E A MO R NING B R LYSPOT SPINNEOAT T R IP TO R DO LPHINS
GO SIGHTSEEING
From Zighy Bay, head for Fujairah, pausing at Bidiyah to admire the oldest mosque in the UAE. Then move on to the Friday Market in Masafi, and on into the canyons, uphill along winding roads, to reach an altitude of 1,100m to visit ancient stone houses. Cycling Khab Al Shamsi Wadi Khab Al Shamsi near Zighy Bay offers the keen mountain biker some of the best technical trails in the region. The Ras Al Jebel passes many ancient stone settlements and dramatic cliffs as it steadily climbs higher.
TURQUOISE HOLIDAYS OFFERS 7 NIGHTS IN A POOL VILLA AT SIX SENSES ZIGHY BAY FOR A FAMILY OF FOUR FROM £5,270 WITH BREAKFAST, FLIGHTS AND TRANSFERS. CALL 01494 678400
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in focus
Westside USA
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Photographs: xxxxxx
Photographs: xxxxxx
Everything about the west side of the USA is big: big deserts, big mountains, big cities, the Big Sur. And it’s big on adventure, too. Put it on your family bucket list now!
westside usa P68 CALIFORNIA ROAD TRIP TOP DOWN IN THE MUSTANG CONVERTIBLE
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P82 ROCKY ROAD ADVENTURES IN THE ROCKY MOUNTAIN NATIONAL PARK family traveller.com
PHOTOGRAPH: ABI CAMPBELL, AWL IMAGES, AARON MILLAR
P76 IN THE FOOTSTEPS OF COWBOYS IN SEARCH OF THE REAL WILD WEST
PHOTOGRAPHS: XXXXXX
PHOTOGRAPHS: XXXXXX
in focus
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WESTSIDE usa / california
California
dreaming Abi Campbell and her two children explore the west coast on a 1,000-mile road trip
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DRIVE TIME
Abi, Jemima and Ellis hit the road in an open-top Mustang
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alifornia is possibly the most exciting outdoor adventure playground on the planet, and its attractions, mountains, lakes and rivers, beautiful coastline and pristine beaches mean it’s kid-friendly, too. My only reservation about this trip with my two children – Ellis, nine, and Jemima, seven – was whether 12 days would be enough to do it justice. Our journey began in Los Angeles. I picked up a red Mustang convertible (a road-trip cliché, I know) at the airport. We planned to drive 1,000 miles, so the expense seemed justified. By the time I had completed the paperwork, squeezed all our luggage into the sports car’s boot and navigated my way onto the formidable six-lane highway in the direction of Santa Monica, it was well past midnight. Jet-lagged and disorientated from driving an unfamiliar car on the wrong side of the road, the kids bouncing their heads off the soft top and laughing like loons, I started to question why on earth I had thought attempting a road trip alone with two children was a good idea. When we reached Santa Monica and pulled up at our hotel, Shutters on the Beach, we were welcomed by an Oscar-winning smile from the parking valet, and my misgivings disappeared. We checked in to our room with a picture-postcard view of Santa Monica Pier and fell asleep before our heads hit the cloud-like feather pillows. In the morning, eager to get to the beach, I reached for the room-service breakfast menu. ‘WARNING: chemicals known to the State of California to cause cancer may be present in food or beverages served here,’ it read. I laughed out loud, weighed up our odds of survival, and opted instead for the Axe Restaurant on hip Abbot Kinney boulevard where I conscientiously ordered organic eggs and a side of kale, washed down with reverse-osmosis purified water. We left £50 lighter, but toxin- and guilt-free. The kids ran ahead as soon as we stepped onto Santa Monica Beach. They watched open-mouthed the pageantry of outdoor activities, from Olympicworthy performances on metal rings to gravity-
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unamusing amusem
ents at santa mo
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westside usa
SANTA MONICA PIER IS AS WONDERFULLY TACKY AS ANY ENGLISH SEASIDE PROMENADE
HOORAY FOR HOLLYWOOD
Famous handprints on the Walk of Fame. Top: Lisa, the bikini-wearing dog. Left: Paramount Ranch
defying slack-lining, joggers, cyclists, roller skaters, surfers, volley ball players and yoga gurus, all silhouetted against the big blue California sky. Scanning the svelte bodies, I vowed to eat only salad for the remainder of the holiday. Ellis had a go at slack-lining and displayed a surprising aptitude for it. Jemima defaulted to hanging upside down on the rings for an hour – her favourite pastime. Should they flunk at school, I’m confident they have the talent to join Cirque du Soleil. After a cursory visit to Santa Monica Pier, which is as wonderfully tacky as any English seaside promenade, we meandered along the impressive 4.5-mile ocean path to Venice, the Camden Market of LA, with rows of tables selling second-rate art and tawdry tourist tat. The highlight was a sunbathing dog in a bikini called Lisa. The following day, we headed to Paramount Ranch
in the Santa Monica Mountains for a slice of Hollywood history. This is where Paramount Pictures made most of its westerns. About 700 acres of it are no longer used, but are open to the public for trekking and picnicking. Stumbling onto an abandoned Wild West town and playing cowboys and Indians was a highlight of our trip, due, in part, to the fact that it’s off the tourist circuit and you’re unlikely to see another soul. Down the road from Paramount Ranch is the historic town (by American standards) of Cornell, where you can step back in time and see the original roadside country store and post office, which date back to the 1800s. Bob Dylan and Steve McQueen used to hang out here. It’s definitely worth a visit to take pictures of the time-worn porches and sample some homestyle cooking. Show me a child who doesn’t like mac and cheese and chicken pot pies. We took the 10-mile Canyon Road to Malibu, stopping briefly to climb the white picket fence of Reagan Ranch, where Ronald and Nancy were famously pictured on horseback, and made it to the beach in time for sundown at the aptly named The Sunset, a pretty wood-clad restaurant on a quiet sandy road with uninterrupted views of the ocean. It would have been criminal to leave LA without seeing a few A-list attractions, so I planned an ambitious day, starting with a drive to the concrete suburb of Watts. The neighbourhood has a shady reputation, but is better known for Watts Towers and its 17 soaring, bejewelled steel spires. These
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WESTSIDE USA / CALIFORNIA
Gaudi-esque towers were created by Simon Rodia, a semi-literate Italian immigrant tiler, who spent 33 years building them. It was a hectic race to Tinseltown to join the crush of holidaymakers paying homage to their favourite celebrities on the Hollywood Walk of Fame. The kids loved holding handprints with Harry Potter and Hermione Granger at the TCL Chinese Theatre. We grabbed a legendary Cali In-N-Out-burger for sustenance before taking a whistle-stop tour of Warner Bros Studios, arriving somewhat spent at Sunset Ranch for our private ride. The horses, while intimidatingly big, were well-seasoned and walked happily docile in single file across the barren hills for a full two hours, passing right underneath the Hollywood sign. The views of the setting sun over LA are epic from here and on a clear day you can see for ever. It’s easy to visualise the early settlers with their children in covered wagons discovering the state for the first time. The next morning marked phase two of our holiday, and we headed north. An eight-hour drive along 300 miles of coastal roads might seem daunting with children, but with pit stops and scenery to die
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MAKING A SPLASH
Top: A welcome chance to cool off at Big Sur. Left: Pelicans check out the pier at Port San Luis
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in focus
westside usa PONY EXPRESS
Exploring on horseback gives you a whole new perspective
a leap of faith at AV
ILA VALLEY FARM
for you hardly notice the time passing. Three hours in, we stopped for lunch in Port San Luis, an authentic commercial fishing harbour. Stepping out of the car for the first time since we left LA, the smell of the Pacific Ocean and the arresting sounds of the sea lions barking from under the pier reawakened our senses. The children watched wide eyed as fishermen with leathery faces filleted their catch with the skill of Samurai warriors, and gasped in delight at the huge vats of pick-your-own live crabs, oysters and shrimps in huge plastic vats. At the end of the 1,300ft sunbleached pier is the Olde Port Inn, an old-school seafood restaurant with glass-topped tables, which allowed us to peer down into the sea below as we ate our fish and chips. Heading back to Highway 1, we discovered Avila Valley Barn, a farmers’ market that proved hard to tear ourselves away from. It had a petting area of llamas and gobbling turkeys, pony rides and hay bales piled high for climbing, an ice cream counter serving typically American flavours of cinnamon cream, pumpkin, eggnog and root beer, and a little barn with
a straw-scattered floor where you could buy freshly baked apple pies, juicy peaches and just-picked sweetcorn. We piled back into the car laden with enough organic supplies to keep us going for a month, leaving my salad diet in the dust. The time had come to play my favourite Joni Mitchel album, put the roof down and soak up the vistas. I had purposefully vetoed iPads on this holiday in favour of music, conversation and an audio CD of Jack Kerouac’s On The Road. Ellis was in the front seat and we were bonding big time. I know scenery isn’t high on most kids’ list of favourite things, but I lost count of the number of ‘Ahhhhhhhs’ that came out of their mouths as every sweeping bend in the elevated costal road revealed even more staggering panoramas. Jemima observed, ‘Heaven is kissing the sea,’ and we travelled in silence for quite a while, in awe of the beauty of Mother Nature. We got to Big Sur Campground and Cabins weary, but in high spirits. We checked in to our cosy A-frame log cabin, nestled among giant redwood trees and I began unpacking the bags. I heard Ellis squeal, and found him with a grin from ear to ear after a surprise encounter with a skunk. We had arrived. I lit a fire and threw on a few juicy rib steaks and let the children run, torches in hands, to the campsite playground to make new friends. I poured myself a glass of chilled Napa Valley wine, and let the magic of the Big Sur take hold. We woke to the smell of campfire smoke and coffee. The children were up and out of the door before I could get them out of their pyjamas, and I encouraged them to enjoy the freedom. We spent that day in the impossibly perfect river that runs through the campground, riding down baby rapids on bouncy black inner tubes hired from the office hut, swinging on ropes like Tarzan and Jane over the deep pools of clear, turquoise water. There are lots of walking trails in Big Sur, with spectacular scenery for those willing to break a sweat. My children aren’t experienced hikers and I’m the most exercise-allergic person I know, so I chose the two-mile Valley View Trail in Pfeiffer Big Sur
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CALIFORNIA: THE LOWDOWN
in focus
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HOW TO GET THERE
Virgin Atlantic flies from London to Los Angeles from £536 return (virgin-atlantic.com). Car hire for 14 days costs from £819 for a Ford Mustang and £311 for a Toyota Corolla, including unlimited mileage, with Hertz (hertz.co.uk).
westside usa CAMP AMERICA
Jemima can’t wait to go back. Below: the superkitsch Madonna Inn
WHERE TO STAY
myself it was a true indicator of a successful adventure. It was a typical California day – not a cloud in the sky and the route inland on the 101 State Park, put on my to LA was fast, wide and happy face and trainers, awesome. We stopped in and dragged the kids San Luis Obispo for along. Within no time, lunch at Madonna Inn, frowns were upside down a landmark California as they climbed on fallen hotel that could give giants acting out scenes Barbara Cartland’s from The Hunger Games. bedroom a run for There were challenging its money. We moments when they over-indulged on h ac be r fe eif er on pf tri-trip beef and collapsed in protest saying the best sunset ev barbecue sauce and they couldn’t go on, but it practically rolled out was worth it when we got to the top and could see all the of the grotesque, carved wooden doors. Back on the road, we spied Pismo Beach in the way to Monterey. ‘Wow! It looks like an oil painting,’ distance and took the next exit to explore the sand I said breathlessly, turning around to find myself flats, dotted with families picnicking out the back of alone – the kids were already racing back down their pick-up trucks and watching the kite surfers the mountain trail. floating past. The beach was backed by sand where Less than a mile from the trails of Pfeiffer Big Sur State Park is a long, unmarked road, which leads to my tweens were whizzing around on dune buggies. When we finally arrived back at Los Angeles favourite place in world, Pfeiffer Beach. The sea is airport, I reluctantly handed back the Mustang keys. wild and relentless in parts. It’s not somewhere to I am a California girl at heart. I long for my children swim but, rather, to dance in the effervescent white foam and stand arrested as waves cinematically power to surf at weekends, soak up sunshine for more than 10 days a year, make and sell homemade lemonade through the neolithic Rock Arch. Stay for sundown on street corners, take snowboarding day trips to the and you’ll agree. There aren’t words to describe the mountains in the winter, and raft, camp and trek in the palette of colours in the sky reflected upon the water. summer, to go to high-school proms, celebrate Put it on your bucket list. Thanksgiving and to be, well, American. ■ I felt genuinely sad to leave Big Sur, but I had to tell
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PHOTOGRAPHS: ABI CAMPBELL
THERE WERE SOME CHALLENGING MOMENTS, BUT IT WAS WORTH IT
Rooms at Shutters on the Beach, Los Angeles, cost from £460 per night (shuttersonthebeach.com). Tent pitches at Big Sur Campground and Cabins cost from £30 per night; caravan/trailer pitches from £40 per night; cabins from £260 per night (bigsurcamp.com). Rooms at Madonna Inn cost from £150 per night (madonnainn.com).
family traveller.com 18/12/2014 12:27
advertisement feature
The Smart Way to Own a Second Home Crystal fund villa, andalucia
Sunny luxury in Casa Leona
Villas come with a full staff, including a cook
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any of us have thought how nice it would be to own a villa in the sun for our families to enjoy as they grow up. But what about the investment price (often well over £500,000)? Not to mention, of course, annual running costs and worries about remote ownership. The Rocksure Crystal Fund offers a solution to these problems, allowing you and your family to enjoy ultra-low-cost holidays for years, while at the same time offering the chance to make money on your investment when the properties are
Properties are luxuriously and tastefully decorated
sold - a great combination. By investing £115,000, you can co-own not one but a portfolio of six beautiful villas (including the one shown) in six different places (Andalucía, Antigua, The Algarve, Turkey, Provence and Marrakech), for seven years, thus truly having a ‘House for All Seasons’.
rocksure.com
how it works
Shareholders in the Crystal Fund would be entitled to two weeks’ use of their choice of properties each year for seven years, at a cost of just £1,200 per week in annual dues – pretty good for a four- or five-bedroom fully staffed villa (including a cook) with private pool. Modest seasonal charges during high and peak seasons apply. What’s more, Shareholders can access all other Rocksure-owned properties shown on www.rocksure.com via the company’s unique Inter-Fund scheme. It costs nothing to find out more about the Crystal Fund: please contact Caroline Rose at +44 (0) 1993 823 809 or crose@rocksure.com
World leaders in shared-equity ownership of portfolios of villas and apartments around the globe
This material is for information purposes only and is not an offer to sell securities or a solicitation of an offer to buy securities. Investors in a Rocksure managed property fund must qualify as High Net Worth Individuals.
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WESTSIDE usa / colorado
the real wild west
Kate Eshelby follows in the footsteps of cowboys, travelling from Denver to Las Vegas
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WESTSIDE USA / COLORADO
a cowboy in
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undreds of incongruously big heads are staring at us, sizing us up. Friend or foe? One brave male inches nosily forward, another begins to tussle. Huge herds of bison thunder across these vast plains. It’s as if the Wild West has never changed. My husband and I, and our two boys – Zac, three, and Archie, one – are staying at Zapata Ranch in Colorado, on a road trip from Denver to Las Vegas. This is the Wild West, which most of us have only seen in the movies. Cowboys still roam these parts, much to Zac’s delight. He spends most of his time using any stick he can find as his ‘pow pow’. There is more law and order than in the days of Butch Cassidy, but this sweeping wilderness gives us the chance to run wild for a few weeks. The ranch has 2,500 free-roaming cattle. ‘Bison preserve the grass naturally, because they don’t chew past the root collar,’ Eda, our wrangler, explains, resplendent in cowboy boots and a Stetson. ‘Whereas horses and cows rip it all out.’ Zac goes out riding each morning. Older children can help round up the cattle and bison on horseback, even learning roping. Archie squeals with delight as he bottle-feeds Luis the calf and Gordon the baby bison. Before us sand dunes soar up, flanked by snow-capped mountains and an endless expanse of bright blue sky. Where else can you see dunes in front of mountains? ‘This is the highest and largest desert in North America,’ says Eda. We ride among rabbit brush and tumble weed, passing porcupines lazing in cottonwood trees, jack rabbits and moose. The only sound is the cranes, which whirl about overhead. The sand in the dunes is too silky soft for building sandcastles, so we spend one day in the Great Sand Dunes National Park, running up the golden peaks and sliding down. We splash around, naked, in the shallow creeks. There’s no one around for miles, and we are watched by only a couple of mule deer.
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ben with sons zac
and archie
Even Denver feels linked to the outdoors, with big mountain views. We can’t resist buying Zac a pair of cowboy boots and he proudly wears them for the rest of the trip. We visit the Children’s Museum (where we make our own rockets), and the Museum of Nature & Science, with its huge displays of stuffed animals displayed in beautiful, realistic replicas of their natural habitat. Zac pushes buttons to hear the sounds the various animals make. Both museums here are outstanding – interactive and creative. Next, we head to Colorado Springs. We stay at the Broadmoor, which has lakes to pedalo on and water slides in the swimming pool. The doormen give the boys high fives, we eat bison burgers and one of the
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westside usa archie settles in to
the colorado lifes
tyle
a lynx with
her cubs
YEE HA!
Left: rounding up the cattle at Zapata Ranch. Below: Zac looks the part in his cowboy boots
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restaurants even has its own bowling alley. Close by is Cheyenne Mountain Zoo, where we see the region’s animals for real. Our favourites are a lynx and her three playful cubs. Leaving here we cross the Rocky Mountains, and have to drive through a snowstorm as we get to the top, before dipping back down to the sunshine and Dunton Hot Springs. The resort’s owner, German entrepreneur Christoph Henkel, bought this former gold-mining town, which has become a ghost town, and restored it to create a sumptuous 13-logcabin spa retreat. Butch Cassidy holed up here after robbing a bank, and carved his name into the bar. You can still see it – the old saloon is now the dining hall. Our timber house was originally the general store, and is now decked out voguishly with cowboy-patterned curtains and Western film memorabilia. Outside, there’s an authentic tepee, which Zac and Archie play in. ‘Older children can camp in it,’ Ramon, the manager, tells us. There are inviting hot springs to soak in – one right outside our cabin, and another in the former bath house. We splash about in the steam, gazing out over the San Juan Mountains. We picnic among the aspen trees and crystal-clear lakes, checking out beaver dams and keeping an eye out for the coyotes, mountain lions and bears that prowl these parts. The boys are thrilled when we suggest a spot of bear hunting. Next is iconic Monument Valley, which has served as a backdrop in many classic John Ford westerns, including Stage Coach, She Wore a Yellow Ribbon and How the West Was Won. Ford was introduced to Monument Valley by Harry Goulding, who set up Goudlings Lodge, where we are staying. Monument Valley Navajo Tribal Park straddles the Utah–Arizona border and covers 92,000 acres, forming part of the 17 million-acre Navajo Nation. Towering rock formations rise up from the desert, punching up through the rugged, flat, treeless landscape like stony fingers and fists. It’s easy to imagine a shootout, or wagons thundering across
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WESTSIDE USA / COLORADO
millions of years of wind, water and geological mayhem have shaped the surreal landscape
the drive-in, wild
west style
the sands. Nowadays, you can explore by Jeep. Only a Navajo Native American can take tourists off the 17-mile scenic loop road that runs through the park. I’m relieved, because this takes us away from the tour buses and stalls selling dream catchers. Our guide, Gary, takes us to spots where we gawp at the breathtaking scenery while Zac makes stone piles. We visit hogans (traditional houses) where the Navajo still live. ‘Let’s go in the little house,’ says Zac eagerly. Gary explains how they farm the land in summer, living in hogans, and winter on the valley rims. Just outside the valley is the town of Mexican Hat, where we eat tacos with chilli con carne and cheese at the Olde Bridge Grill Cafe, and paddle in the refreshingly cool water monument valley of the San Juan River. No Wild West foray is complete without a stay in a trailer. The boys run riot when they ROCK ON discover that we will be sleeping in a silver Right: sandstone hoodoos vintage Airstream at the Shooting Star RV Resort. One at Devil’s Garden. evening, we tuck the kids up in bed and watch Grease Below: Zac and Archie at the small on-site drive-in. We snuggle up in an old make themselves at home at the Shooting Cadillac, with freshly made popcorn and wine. Star RV Resort The next day we hire quad bikes and whizz along the back-country trails with the wind in our hair, both boys screeching with glee. An ancient world encircles us. Dinosaur bones have been found here, so we head off in search of footprints and fossils. We scale the sandstone hoodoos (also know as fairy chimneys) at Devil’s Garden, a natural playground of caves and arches. Zac quickly becomes more confident
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westside usa COLORADO: THE LOWDOWN
family traveller.c
HOW TO GET THERE
PHOTOGRAPHS: AWL IMAGES, AARON MILLAR, ISAAC COLE, TOM AND PAT LEESON/ARDEA.COM, 4 CORNERS, ROBERTHARDING.COM
Flights from London to Denver and from Las Vegas cost from £690 with British Airways (britishairways.com). rock climbing. ‘I did it,’ he shouts happily as he mounts one particularly steep rock. ‘I’m the king of the castle!’ He runs around collecting small pieces of sandstone or ‘dragon’s teeth’. Another day we go hiking among the pink and gold-white cliffs of Bryce Canyon National Park. It’s a natural amphitheatre filled with hoodoos, which flash fiery red as the sun sets. ‘Millions of years of wind, water and geological mayhem have shaped the surreal landscape,’ one of the rangers explains. We climb down between fantastical figures and shapes. A magical kingdom stretches to infinity before us. But this landscape feels more mythical and less masculine than cowboy country. Our final stop, Zion National Park, is back where cowboys hide out. Here I go canyoneering (exploring canyons by abseiling, climbing and rafting) in a gorge carved by the Virgin River, while my husband and the boys embark on an easy walk. It’s my first time, and I’m a fan. Wading up a river, at times against rapids, or chest high in water, I can imagine cowboys making their escape in this same, sometimes treacherous way. Sunlight glows round corners, turquoise water swirls in rock cauldrons, and the walls change colour as they billow and curve. They tower overhead, like a cathedral as the gorge gets narrower, creating what feels like my own subterranean world; sometimes just 20ft wide. The power of nature envelopes me and the water pulls tight around my body. All too soon we are heading for Las Vegas. Tall cacti punctuate the desert for miles before we approach the city. Bright lights and adverts for discount accident lawyers stretch out ahead of us. This is definitely the end of our trip. No true cowboy rides into Vegas. But we have our naughty little villains in the back, fast asleep after another action-packed day. ■
WHERE TO STAY
Rooms at Gouldings Lodge (gouldings. com) cost from £46 a night. A threenight stay at Zapata Ranch (zranch. org) costs from £785 per person, including all meals and activities. Rooms at Dunton Hot Springs (duntonhotsprings.com) cost from £375 a night full board. An Airstream trailer at Shooting Star RV Resort (shootingstar-rvresort.com) costs from £75 a night. Black Tomato tailormakes road trips in America’s Wild West (blacktomato.com).
canyoneering in zion
national park
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WESTSIDE USA / ROCKY MOUNTAINS
100 yea
rs old
ROCKY ROAD
AARON MILLAR explores the real outdoors in the Rocky Mountain National Park
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agical things happen in the mountains. John Muir, the legendary American environmentalist, and founder of the National Park Service, said, ‘They will kill, care, save you from deadly apathy [and]… set you free.’ Mountains are special because they imbibe us with a rare cocktail of unbridled awe and dead-set humility, all at the same time. The Rocky Mountain National Park, two hours’ drive west of Denver, Colorado, is celebrating its centenary this year. It’s 415sq miles of snow-capped peaks, alpine lakes and glacier valleys filled with wildflowers and moose. There is, perhaps, nowhere else in the country where America’s raw beauty and untempered natural spirit is better represented. For thousands of years, the Native American Ute and Aarapaho tribes lived, and hunted, in these high forests. In the 19th century, the first settlers arrived and developed small homesteads. Our lives have changed, but the landscape, and its effect on us, has not. ‘We’re awe junkies,’ says Rocky Mountain ranger Barry Sweet. ‘The feeling of being here takes over your whole body.’ But awe doesn’t always come easy. The Rockies are also home to mountain lions, coyotes and black bears. There are sudden electric storms that deafen the sky, and gusts of mountain wind that could break a house. This is the real outdoors, a wilderness that the comforts of civilisation have not yet plundered. But that’s exactly why you should come. Psychological research suggests that adventure in nature can dramatically boost children’s confidence and self-esteem. And it might even help you, too. ‘People come to the park with dull, grey eyes from their stressed-out lives,’ says Sweet. ‘And leave with the sparkle back.’ Here’s everything you need to know to plan your family wilderness experience in the Rocky Mountains. The magic will happen by itself.
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campfire cheers
home the park is
to 24 black
bears
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WESTSIDE USA / ROCKY MOUNTAINS
BACK-COUNTRY CAMPING OUR STORY (Or: It rained, there were tears, and we wouldn’t have changed it for anything)
T
his was not how we had planned it. There should have been sharp granite peaks dabbed in the warm amber of sunset, pine forests chirping with chipmunks and the tiny drum roll of hummingbird wings. When you bring your family to the Rocky Mountain National Park for their first camping trip, you expect Disney conditions: blue skies, wide smiles and roasted marshmallows. What we got was wet. But here’s the amazing thing. We still loved it. Sometimes, a disaster on paper is a triumph in spirit – even with two toddlers and one tiny tent. It started so well. We roasted sausages on a stick, saw a deer skip across our path and watched our kids – Cameron, five, and Elise, two – sworn in as official Junior Rangers. ‘Do you promise to protect the wildlife?’ ranger Betsy asked. ‘Mummy will,’ Elise replied. But this was drive-up-and-park ‘car camping’: American terminology for a night under canvas about
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‘do you swear to protect the wildlife?’ ranger betsy asked
HOORAY FOR HOLLYWOOD
Famous handprints on the Walk of Fame. Top: Lisa, the bikini-wearing dog. Left: Paramount Ranch
cameron and gill (at least 200ft fr ian cook up a storm om the tent: bear s!) as wilderness as a drive-through Starbucks. We longed for the real thing. I wanted us to experience, as a family, a world our kids had never seen, that unpopulated feralness of the real outdoors. We decided to head into the back country for a night on our own, relying on nothing but our wits and what we could pack on our backs. But herein our troubles began. As it turns out, one can carry an awful lot on one’s back. The problem is moving at the same time. Add in the necessity of stopping to feed the kids chocolate bribes on every corner and what should have been a pleasant hour-long stroll slowly becomes an all-day physical ordeal. And then the rain started, a drenching so severe that perhaps only a submarine would have kept us dry. There was tension, grumpiness and tears – we are a family after all – but through it all we somehow climbed to 10,000ft, erected our minuscule
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westside usa A RANGER’S TIPS Drive-up ‘car camping’ in large designated sites is easy, safe and fun, but can be crowded. For a true wilderness experience, head to a back-country campsite. You’ll have to carry everything, but will be rewarded with solitude and the thrill of true adventure. Park ranger Barry Sweet has the following tips. CAMPING Use designated sites and camp away from dead trees. Food preparation, eating and washing, as well as the camp toilet, should be 70 adult steps (or 200ft) away from the sleeping area. Store food in a bear-proof container. ALTITUDE The Rockies are a high-altitude park. Know the signs of acute mountain sickness – dizziness, nausea, fatigue, shortness of breath and headaches – and descend the minute they appear. Acclimatise by spending one night at the park’s lowest elevation before heading out.
lot is easy carrying a problem) e th ving that’s
(it’s mo
two-man tent and crammed five bags, four people and eight muddy boots in. But then what? Too wet to cook, too small to move around in. Nothing for the kids to do but bounce that beam of boundless bored energy against their trapped and helpless parents. There is a level in hell, I am now convinced, where truly awful people are placed in just such conditions. But after a while, an amazing thing happened. Gradually, one by one, we started to drop that incessant need for entertainment, that relentless list of chores. There was, literally, nothing to do but be in the moment. And that simple fact, somehow, cleared an enormous blockage of mental fuzz. There was only us. In this vast, bear-ridden wilderness, there was only the four of us. We savoured the last of our snacks together, we cuddled in for warmth, we shared the dark press of night. This was what real camping is about, we decided. Roughing it, surviving, being together. It wasn’t how we’d planned it, but I wouldn’t have wanted it any other way.
WEATHER Lightning is a killer. Avoid exposed areas, isolated trees and caves. If lightning appears, throw away hiking poles, pick up children and crouch on one leg to avoid a double connection with the ground. Other dangers include sudden high gusts of wind on mountain summits and exposed ridges. Lie flat on the ground if you hear one approaching. WILDLIFE There are 24 black bears in the park. They’re usually timid, but can be aggressive if they’re startled or have cubs. If you see one, pick up kids, don’t run, don’t make eye contact, talk in a calm voice and slowly back away. Mountain lion sightings are rare. If you meet one, make yourself as large as possible, keep eye contact and shout in a threatening manner. Keep children between adults while hiking. EQUIPMENT A map and compass are essential. Wear bear bells on packs and carry repellant bear spray. Sports drinks and rehydration sachets are better than water at high altitudes. Bring warm clothes, and raincoats, even in summer.
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WESTSIDE USA / ROCKY MOUNTAINS
es
aken your sens
Let NATURE aw
FAMILY-FRIENDLY DAY HIKES BEAR LAKE JUNIOR RANGERS
Research strongly suggests adventure in nature boosts children’s confidence
WILDERNESS GAMES No wifi, no mobile reception… Don’t panic! These wilderness games will keep the kids smiling from ear to ear.
WILDLIFE BINGO
Pick up a Junior Ranger booklet meeting ran ger betsy in the park for a fun observation game to play while hiking. Or download a list of Rocky Mountain wildlife and see who can spot the most birds, animals, trees and flowers. Set a prize and it’s guaranteed to keep tired legs walking.
BUILD A SHELTER
All kids love building dens, but finding shelter is also an important survival skill. Work with them to find natural protection from the elements, such as recesses under rocks or fallen trees, then embellish those hideouts with branches, leaves and debris.
COMPASS TREASURE HUNT
A camping twist on the traditional treasure hunt. Set out clues around your campsite using the cardinal directions and have your kids follow them using a compass. A fun way to teach a vital outdoor skill.
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0.8 miles; height gain 430ft; access via Bear Lake Trailhead Follow an interpretative nature trail around the lake to learn about the history and geology of the region. Arrive early, and you’ll have the mirror-still reflections of the Rockies all to yourselves.
ALBERTA FALLS
1.6 miles; height gain 200ft; access via Glacier Gorge Trailhead The 30ft high Alberta Falls thunder dramatically through a narrow gorge of Glacier Creek and are one of the most spectacular cascades in the park.
BIG MEADOWS
3.6 miles; height gain 740ft; access via Green Mountain Trailhead Traversing the largest mountain meadow in the park, this hike passes through ideal habitat for deer and moose. Come at dusk or dawn to spot them.
LILY MOUNTAIN
4 miles; height fain 1,180ft; access via Lily Mountain Trailhead Longs Peak is the most famous summit in the park but at 14,000ft, is probably out of reach for most families. Try Lily Mountain, instead. At 10,000ft, it’s accessible for older kids and has panoramic views.
UTE TRAIL
4 miles; height gain 325ft; access via Ute Crossing Trailhead Walk part of an ancient trail used by the Native American Ute and Arapaho tribes to link winter and summer hunting grounds, and experience the desolate landscape of the 12,000ft-high tundra. For more information on hiking in Rocky Mountain National Park, visit nps.gov/romo
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ROCKY MOUNTAIN ACTIVITIES
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WHITE-WATER RAFTING
There are 476 miles of streams and creeks in the park, including the headwater of the mighty Colorado River. Take the kids on a family-friendly 12-mile guided white-water adventure down one of its most scenic stretches. rapidtransitrafting.com
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HORSE RIDING
There are 260 miles of trails suitable for horses. Join a guided ride to an abandoned homestead, and learn what life was like here 100 years ago. estesparkoutfitters.com
CYCLING
PHOTOGRAPHS: AARON MILLAR, NPS/ANN SCHONLAU, NPS/BONNIE BEACH, SHUTTERSTOCK, NPS/DEBBIE RIDDLE
Mountain biking isn’t allowed in the park, but there are plenty of world-class trails in the Theodore Roosevelt National Forest on its doorstep. The biggest thrill is catching a ride to the top of the park with a local bike tour operator, and freewheeling down from 12,000ft. newventurecycling.com
CLIMBING
The Rockies is one of the world’s premier rockclimbing destinations and a great place to learn the basics. Or, for something more extreme, don’t miss the brand-new cliff-camping experience, where you spend the night suspended on a platform hundreds of feet above the ground. kmaconline.com
DRIVING
The Trail Ridge Road is America’s highest paved road, topping out at 12,831ft, or almost three times the height of Ben Nevis. Take the 48-mile snaking byway, stopping at vertiginous viewpoints along the way, and witness an extreme landscape few people ever have the chance to see. nps.gov/romo
dawn and dusk ar times to spot deer e the best and moose
BEST BACK-COUNTRY CAMPSITES FOR FAMILIES ARCH ROCK
Fun boulders around camp for kids to play on. WALK IN: 1.4 miles HEIGHT GAIN: 90ft; access via Fern Lake Trailhead; no toilets.
CUB CREEK
Next to a beautiful lake, with great mountain views. WALK IN: 2.2 miles HEIGHT GAIN: 520ft; access via Cub Lake Trailhead; no toilets.
PEREGRINE
Combine with a hike to Bridal Veil Falls waterfall, which is nearby. WALK IN: 2 miles HEIGHT GAIN: 640ft; access via Cow Creek Trailhead; toilets.
RABBIT EARS
In autumn, there’s a good chance of seeing deer, moose and big-horn sheep. WALK IN: 1.4 miles HEIGHT GAIN: 260ft; access via Cow Creek Trailhead; toilets.
SUMMERLAND PARK
Idyllic meadows, which are great for autumn colour. WALK IN: 1.7 miles HEIGHT GAIN: 380ft; access via North Inlet Trailhead; no toilets. You must obtain a back-country permit, £12.75 per night, in advance. Visit nps.gov/romo for details ■
SOMETHING DIFFERENT
the time of your
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lives
White-water rafting (left) and horse-riding are two activities to try for a break from hiking
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10
ten of the best / literary breaks
of the best
holidays inspired by children’s literature Rachael Newberry suggests some family-friendly holiday destinations – from Sussex to Canada – inspired by her favourite children’s books
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watching the detectives
The Hergé Museum on the outskirts of Brussels
Eloise New York
Who wouldn’t want to live in the New York Plaza, riding the elevators and hanging out with the desk clerk? You can now share Eloise’s adventures with her pet dog Weenie and turtle Skipperdee, and order nightly room service as you watch television under a parasol. Double rooms start at £537 a night, but for the ultimate in decadent pleasure, book the Eloise Suite on the 18th floor. At £823 a night (which includes an Eloise bathrobe, $100 gift card for the Eloise shop, a framed photo of yourself in the suite and an Eloise book), this is the definitive Eloise experience (theplazany. com/family). British Airways flies from London to New York from £470 return (britishairways.com).
in the pink
Above: the Eloise Suite at the New York Plaza (left)
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TINTIN
BRUSSELS, BELGIUM
Tintin sets off from Brussels, where he works as a reporter, to explore fantasy lands such as Syldavia and Borduria as well as real places, including India, China, the USA, Peru and the UK. He also explores his home town in Belgium, some of his adventures being set at the flea market, La Monnaie Theatre and the Royal Palace. The Tintin Suite in Hotel Amigo is a great base from which to explore Brussels. It has original artwork donated by the Hergé Foundation, a fluffy Snowy dog lying on the bed when you arrive, a chest of comics and the Thompson Twins’ canes and bowler hats. Rooms from £140 a night (roccofortehotels.com). Return fares on Eurostar from London to Brussels from £69 return (eurostar.com).
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take five
Durdle Door on the Dorset coast
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The Famous Five Dorset
The Famous Five’s stomping ground has much to offer families. In Weymouth, you can visit Sea Life, and play on the sandy beaches. Bridport is peppered with charming antique shops or head to Lyme Regis, on the Jurassic Coast, to catch crabs and explore rock pools. Whispering Island, where the Five discovered smuggled loot, was based on Brownsea Island, which is now run by The National Trust. Take the foot ferry across and explore the car-free island at your own pace. Moonfleet Manor in Weymouth has family rooms from £195 a night (moonfleetmanorhotel.co.uk)
5 a view from the bridge
Children of all ages will love playing poohsticks in Ashdown Forest
Winnie the Pooh East Sussex
Hundred Acre Wood, the setting for all AA Milne’s tales of Winnie the Pooh and his friends, was inspired by Ashdown Forest, a 6,500-acre woodland in East Sussex. You can walk in the footsteps of Christopher Robin and his band of soft toys, meeting herds of wild deer and playing poohsticks on the way. Ashdown Park Hotel and Country Club has family rooms from £320 a night, with children’s packages, including a goodie bag on arrival, games on the lawn, tennis and swimming lessons and children’s picnics – honey sandwiches obligatory – available for an extra £9 a night (ashdownpark.com).
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ten of the best / literary breaks
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Pippi Longstocking Gotland, Sweden Pippi is a joyful childhood friend – she can lift a horse with one hand, won’t go to school and lives with a horse and a monkey, Mr Nilsson, in a house called Villa Villekulla. The house used in the 1969 TV adaptation of the books is now at the Kneippbyn Summerland theme park, which has a Pippi show every day in summer. There is also a waterpark with 13 slides and seven pools. Pippi’s life was almost devoid of material objects and a whole theme park built around her house feels a little contradictory, but kids will love it. Accommodation is available at the nearby Kneippbyn Resort Visby: camping from £32 a night; family room in a hotel from £155 a night (kneippbyn.se/en). SAS flies from London to Visby from £444 return (flysas.com).
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island life
Above: Pippi Longstocking and Mr Nilsson. Left: Villa Villekulla
Anne of Green Gables
Prince Edward Island, Canada
Prince Edward Island lies off the east coast of Canada, about 125 miles from Halifax, Nova Scotia. It’s lush and green and slow and lazy, and feels like a time gone by. Green Gables, in Cavendish, was the inspiration for the setting of Lucy Maud Montgomery’s story. The Anne of Green Gables Museum, Montgomery’s birthplace and the parsonage in which she lived are all worth a visit. The deluxe Rodd Brudenell River Resort boasts a kids’ programme as well as a marina, sea kayaking, canoeing, horseback riding, indoor and outdoor pools. Family rooms cost from £66.50 a night. British Airways flies from London to Charlottetown from £640 return.
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Photographs: alamy,, eloise stone, hilary knight, hergé/moulinart 2014, robertharding. com, lauren child 2007, getty images, rex features, 4 corners images, alamy/boxfed
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Grimm’s Fairy Tales
Black Forest, Germany
The Disneyfication of Grimm’s fairytales has sanitised what were originally dark, sinister, morality tales. Cinderella, Little Red Riding Hood, Hansel and Gretel, Rapunzel and Snow White all take for their subject matter innocents who, through a series of events, triumph over evil. The 375-mile German Fairy Tale Route through the Black Forest meanders through villages, towns and cities with lots of castles and towers along the way. Don’t miss Snow White’s house in Bergfreiheit, and Rapunzel’s tower at the Trendelburg hotel, where you can stay from £194 a night (burg-hotel-trendelburg.com/ en). Train fares from London to Cologne from £122 per person (raileurope.co.uk).
land of make-believe
See the fairytale castles and cottages that inspired the Brothers Grimm
9 Little Women Massachusetts
sister act
Orchard House in Concord was the setting for Little Women
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Louisa May Alcott wrote and set her books about the March sisters in Orchard House, Concord, Massachusetts. It is almost unchanged since her day, and is now a museum, open to visitors. As well as Minute Man National Historical Park, the nearby port city of Boston is well worth exploring. It’s great for galleries, museums, seafood and harbourside walks – and shopping. Family rooms at the Boston Park Plaza Hotel cost from £175 a night (bostonparkplaza.com). Virgin Atlantic flies from London to Boston from £527 return (virgin-atlantic.com).
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ten of the best / literary breaks
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HOUSE PARTY
THE MOOMINS FINLAND
Get up close with the Moomis in Finland
The Moomins, a kind of cross between a troll and a hippo, spend the winter in hibernation, emerging in the spring for star-lit adventures through forests and oceans with friends Snufkin, the Hemulen and the Snork Maiden. Discover the Moomins for yourself at Moomin World in Naantali, south-west Finland. It is deservedly ranked in the world’s top 10 best theme parks. It doesn’t have rides, but kids will love meeting the Moomin characters as well as exploring the Moomin House, Theatre Emma, the Story Path and the swimming beach. A twonight family package at Naantali Spa Hotel costs from £559 for adults and £509 for children, including flights, with Guild Travel (guildtravel. com/family).
WATER WORLD
The beautiful Lake District inspired the Tales of Beatrix Potter
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PETER RABBIT AND FRIENDS THE LAKE DISTRICT Beatrix Potter’s enchanting tales of characters including Peter Rabbit, Jeremy Fisher, Mrs Tiggy-Winkle, Jemima Puddle-Duck and the Flopsy Bunnies are set against the glorious backdrop of the Lakes. At The Beatrix Potter Gallery in Hawkshead, you will find some of her original sketches and watercolours. Lindeth Howe Hotel, which Potter once owned, is located just outside Bowness-on-Windermere, and overlooks the lake, the largest lake in the country. Family rooms cost from £230 a night. There is a hightea menu for children, and excellent dining in the hotel restaurant (for children over seven). While there is venison, pigeon and guinea fowl on the menu, we didn’t spot any rabbit pie
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THE ULTIMATE HIGH SARAH TUCKER and her son Tom rope up and head to Yosemite National Park for a spot of rock climbing
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PHOTOGRAPHS: XXXXXX
PHOTOGRAPHS: XXXXXX
learn to… climb
children can start climbing from as young as five, if it’s a safe, well-supervised environment
y 16-year-old son Tom has been rock climbing since he was four. I haven’t done anything since the playground climbing frame, yet we found ourselves earlier this year in Yosemite National Park in California. If you want to scale the heights, you won’t find a better playground than this 790,000-acre wilderness. Tom has no fear, but I’m not as brave as I used to be. ‘It’s only scary when you’re near the top and you realise you have a long way to fall,’ Tom reassured me as we drove into the park. I had the good fortune to interview the adventurer Bear Grylls a few years ago, and recalled his advice. ‘Going on the climbing wall is usually the first way children get hooked,’ he said. ‘My father was a climber and encouraged me, and it’s easy if you have encouragement like that. Rock climbing instils physical, mental and emotional discipline. It makes you strong, and it’s fun and very rewarding. If you, as a parent, are passionate about climbing, you’ll find it’s catching.’ Tom is testament to that. He has climbed in Austria and Canada and is hoping to do Everest Base Camp later this year. He is definitely a better climber than me, and more fearless. So where do you start if you want your child to learn to climb? ‘There are some excellent climbing clubs now,’ says Richard Baxell, managing director of Geckos Climbing for Kids. ‘You can start from as young as five if it’s in a safe, well-supervised environment where the children gain confidence and strength. For our climbs, we usually ask for the children to be nine or over. What they lack in strength initially they make up for in agility. And girls are usually, but not always, more agile than boys, who tend to be stronger.’ Always make sure the instructor is properly qualified. In Yosemite, the climbing guides are all American Mountain Guides Association-certified, which means they’ve undergone rigorous training and have had decades of climbing experience in the park. You want your child to be in safe hands. The
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Yosemite rock climbing classes (available April to October) are renowned for nurturing children’s confidence, and are designed to teach climbers of all abilities new skills. The classes are hugely popular, so make sure you book well in advance. The Go Climb a Rock class is recommended for beginners. You’ll learn all the basics, such as how to use harnesses and ropes and how to climb safely. Initially, it all seemed very confusing, but eventually it becomes second nature – or so Tom tells me. Classes usually last six or seven hours, and start at 8.30am at the Mountaineering School in Curry Village or in nearby Tuolumne Meadows. There’s a maximum of six students per instructor and the minimum age is 12. Children who are 10 or 11 can join classes with a supervising adult present, and children under 10 can have private lessons, again with an accompanying adult.
MOVING ON UP
The next stage after Go Climb a Rock is Crack Climbing, which offers slightly more challenging climbs, and you learn basic protection and simple anchor movements. ‘This is an ideal course for those who have done some climbing in a gym or on a climbing wall and this is their first time on a real rock,’ says Dave Bengston, director of the Yosemite Mountaineering School. ’Children seem to take to climbing like ducks to water,’ he said. ‘They are flexible, agile and grow in confidence quickly. It’s a good way to bring children out of themselves and, in an environment like this, which is stunning anyway, it’s like learning to do anything in ideal conditions, with the best guides and the best rocks in the best park in the world. ‘Anyone who wants to climb needs to be properly prepared. Always wear comfortable clothing that is loose-fitting, but not so loose that it’s billowing about in the wind. Many people like to climb in shorts and a T-shirt, although some wear Lycra leggings, but just choose what is comfortable for you. Proper rubber-soled climbing shoes are a must. Slightly too big is better than too small. You need to learn how to put on your harness, and you will need chalk and a chalk bag, because your hands will sweat, and the chalk reduces the chance of your hands slipping. A helmet to protect you from loose or falling rocks is essential. There are a lot of climbers who still don’t wear them because it doesn’t fit in with their tough-guy image, but it’s better safe than sorry.
‘DON’T FORGET TO BREATHE’
‘Think of the rope as your best friend, and don’t take any chances. Climbing ropes are usually made of tightly woven nylon fibres over a loosely entwined core or a collection of straight fibres. I try to keep jargon to a minimum, but most kids want to know what the rope is made of, while the grown-ups just want to know if it will hold their weight!’ Dave then talked us through the first movements on the rock. ‘Picture yourself on a ladder when you climb,’ he said. ‘Move from one hold to the next as relaxed as if
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Climb in an X shape, with your hips the middle of the X
you were ascending the steps of a ladder. Avoid over-gripping holds with your hands because your arms will tire quickly. Use your feet like you would your hands, and concentrate on what is within reach. Climb in an X shape, with your hips the middle of the X.’ Dave reassured both of us that fear is normal, especially a fear of heights, and climbing is all about conquering those fears. ‘Take your time,’ he advised. ‘Think of how a cat climbs – with quiet, deliberate and precise movements. Make each move as fluid as possible. And don’t forget to breathe.’ A good guide will instil confidence. The views are spectacular as you climb, but it’s essential to focus on hand and foot positioning. Tom reached the top before I did. I’m just pleased I reached the top.
fear is normal, especially a fear of heights. climbing is all about conquering that
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learn to… climb
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TOP SPOTS TO LEARN
CLIMBING IN THE UK
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GECKOS Where: London, with excursions to Tunbridge Wells or the Peak District National Park. What’s on offer: A range of lessons, including ‘have-a-go’ family taster sessions, holiday courses and personal tuition. How much? £25 for a couple of hours; £80 an hour for private climbing tuition for a family of four. When: Year-round, but you need to book in advance. geckos.co.uk
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PURE OUTDOOR Where: Peak District National Park. What’s on offer: Family outdoor climbing and caving packages and private instruction in a stunning part of the UK. How Much? £185 per person for a family climbing package and £225 for a family caving package. One child under 16 goes free with each full paying adult. When: April to October. pureoutdoor.com
KING KONG CLIMBING CENTRE Where: Keswick, Cumbria How much? Climbing wall taster, £15 (1¼ hours); ice climbing £10 (1½ hours). What’s on offer: climbing wall, ice climbing, indoor caving, outdoor activities, indoor hard play area for younger children with a castle, dragons and tunnels and birthday-party climbs. When: Year-round. kingkongclimbingcentre.co.uk
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CLIMBING OVERSEAS
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ROCK AND SUN Where: Greece, Spain, France, Italy, Morocco, Thailand. What’s on offer: Exciting taster sessions, single-pitch rock climbing, via ferrata, sea-cliff climbing, canyoning, abseiling, trekking and walking for all the family. How much: Four- and five-day trips to Italy and France from £350 per person. When: Year-round. rockandsun.com
YAMNUSKA MOUNTAIN ADVENTURES Where: The Canadian Rockies surrounding Banff, Canmore and Lake Louise, Alberta. What’s on offer: Ice climbing, rock climbing, backcountry skiing and avalanche training. How much? Two-day scrambling courses from £149 per person. When: Mid-May to the end of September. yamnuska.com
ROYAL CARIBBEAN INTERNATIONAL Where: Available on all Royal Caribbean’s cruise ships. What’s on offer: A climbing wall 200ft above sea level. How much? A six-night Western Caribbean cruise costs from £262 per person full board (rock climbing and other activities included), calling at Fort Lauderdale, Florida, George Town, Grand Cayman, Jamaica, and Haiti. royalcaribbean.co.uk
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tom’s take
Yosemite provides an idyllic setting for climbing enthusiasts
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’ve been climbing since I was four, when I went on a cruise and there was a wall on the deck. I loved it. It’s a real adrenalin rush and builds strength, especially upper body, but everywhere, really. But that’s not important when you’re four. What’s important is it’s fun, and it was. Mountain climbers are very strong. They don’t look as though they have huge muscles, but they are very strong. I’m not afraid, but I always get nervous when I’m nearing the top as you have the furthest to fall, and you either have to come down again or go over the top. I’ve been told by my guides it’s healthy to have some fear, as then you don’t do anything stupid or think you can stretch further than you should. You have to be mentally focused and check to make sure the rocks are safe before you lean on them. Always test them before you do. That’s a very good tip. After the ship I went to a wall locally, and then Dad took me climbing in Austria. It’s totally different from doing it indoors, but it’s important you do the indoor stuff as it makes you much more confident outside – the outdoor experience makes it much more real.
MAGIC MOMENTS Messing about in the snow provides fun for all ages
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E
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learn to… climb
The most important thing is to have a really good guide – someone who gives you all the detail and confidence you need. I have had some great guides who are really clear about what they want you to do. The guides in Yosemite were really good. Very sensible and calm all the time and very clear with directions. You need that. And it was easy to ask GETTING THERE questions. They were also Turkish Airlines flies from London to great at motivating you San Francisco from £615 (turkish and telling you how to get airlines.com). A week’s car hire from out of something, or letting San Francisco airport costs from £131 you figure it out yourself. with Budget Rental (budget.co.uk). Mum was a bit nervous, WHERE TO STAY so it was great for her. Rooms at Tenaya Lodge in Yosemite The views were cost from £188 per night, including amazing in the park. You breakfast (tenayalodge.com). could see for miles, and I want to come back when CLIMBING LESSONS I’m older and practise A seven-hour rock climbing lesson more, because Dave is costs from £187 per person (adults brilliant. You feel you and children). Booking in advance can do anything he is essential (yosemitepark.com). says and still be safe. ■
PHOTOGRAPHS: GETTY IMAGES, CORBIS
THE LOWDOWN
Tom has been climbing sinc e the age of four, and loved his American experience
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– LANTERN & LARKS
18/12/2014 11:44
animal magic
James Medd and family go in search of some R&R – and an elusive lizard – on the chilled-out island of Phuket
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THAILAND
T
he Siam massage at the Angsana Laguna Phuket is, when all is said and done, very like being beaten up. However, after an hour of having knuckles dug into my calves, knees pressed into my spine and unspeakably painful things inflicted on my shoulders, I am in a state of bliss. Hand in hand with my wife, who has been enjoying a slightly gentler treatment along the corridor, I step out into the light and humidity, at one with the universe. This time of transcendence is brief, however, lasting just the few minutes it takes to reach the Tree House Kids Club, where Louis, 13, and Alfie, 10, have been imprisoned while we were being pummelled. They are not pleased. This is a place ‘for kids’, they say, and indeed, the brightly coloured library and video-game units are being used by children much younger and altogether happier. It’s a fair point. We later see trains of them running around the resort in face paint and not one is above knee-high. The daily programmes and playground equipment do not suit our lairy boys. Most of the time, though, this is a place where all four of us are happy and busy doing whatever pleases us. Those parents fortunate enough to have visited Thailand’s islands, of which Phuket is the largest, in the days of Alex Garland’s bestseller The Beach will remember a semi-developed tourist infrastructure on the cosy side of basic. Now, 20 years on, the backpackers have gone in search of a new beach, and we have, instead, an array of resorts. Angsana Laguna is on the west of Phuket, looking out to Bang Tao Bay and a network of lakes formed by old tin mines. Opened in December 2011, it’s one of five resorts in the area. It’s too uniform to be
beautiful, but it’s a cleverly designed complex of 404 rooms and some villas, with plenty of places to discover and lots of nooks and crannies. ‘It’s a whole city,’ as Alfie says – and one designed for families. The rooms are a good balance between smart and comfortable, with polished wood and big sofas and some of the best hotel beds we’ve slept in. Our ground-floor suite has a double and twin bedroom, each with a bathroom, joined in the middle by a small kitchen, which has steps down into a sitting room with patio doors opening onto the laguna. It’s peaceful and comfortable at any time of day, but Angsana’s key feature, at least for us, is the pool, which runs for 323m around the resort. Braced for a brightly coloured waterpark, we find, instead, an iridescent-tiled canal system that glides under bridges and round corners into four different areas, each with its own energy. The small pool near our room becomes our ball-game and aqua-fitness sector, the wider area through the first tunnel the swimming time-trial lanes, and the largest pool, with its manmade sandy beach, the challenge arena. It’s not that there’s anything wrong with the real beach, just outside the resort, but it’s flying a no-swim red flag for the length of our stay (for waves that back home would barely register, though it’s nice to know they care). A stroll and a quick swim are lovely, but as soon as we sit down we’re enthusiastically sold to. A return to the pool, and slow-motion underwater wrestling or even some strictly forbidden bridgejumping, soon calls. The suite’s interconnected areas allow the boys to head off on their own while their lazy parents lie on sunbeds. They return from their first solo adventure with tales of Jacuzzi areas, underwater seats and an enormous lizard sitting on the poolside. ‘He just stared at us for ages,’ says Alfie. ‘He was sitting there
MODEL VILLAGE
The family-friendly accommodation and canal-like pool at Angsana Laguna
making new
friends
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THE LOWDOWN Seven nights at Angsana Laguna Phuket in two Laguna Rooms cost from £1,070 per adult and £979 per child, including breakfast and flights with Emirates, with Western & Oriental (westernoriental.com).
e laguna
kayaking on th
probing the area with his tongue out,’ adds Louis. He’s named it Albert, and each time we pass the spot, looking out for him, estimates of his size grow. The animal magic increases the following day when an elderly fellow guest tells us about the crocodiles in the laguna, which he’s been told about by the driver of the taxi boat, apparently. We know swimming in the laguna is strictly forbidden; perhaps this is why. The next day, we have the chance to find out when we go kayaking on the laguna. This is a free activity, stationed a few yards from our room with lifejackets
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and highly buoyant plastic craft. We set off – Louis solo, followed by Alfie and me together, my wife laughing at us from the bank. We make good progress, gliding under rooms on stilts and even restaurants, trying to ride the wake of the passing water taxis ferrying guests from one resort to another. It’s more Swallows and Amazons than Apocalypse Now, but we all know this is no leisurely paddle but a serious hunt. All the same, despite frequent sightings, the mystery remains unsolved. There’s consolation back on dry land, though. We see a small crowd on our patio, and arrive in time to find a lizard trying to get into our room. Is Albert looking for us, too? In the manicured surroundings, it’s the animals that remind us where we are. Even the birds that fly in to pick up crumbs from the tiled restaurant floors are cartoonishly exotic, and then there’s the baby elephant that visits the resort twice a day and holds hands (with its trunk) with children. We go riding on some full-grown ones, on a bizarre track just round the corner from the hotel (£9.70 per adult, £7.80 per child, not including the bananas you can hand-feed them). It’s sited, presumably for advertising purposes, right next to the road, so we watch cars driving by as we roll downhill on an enormous wrinkled juggernaut. The beasts are strange enough in themselves – ‘like
famil
LIFE’S A BEACH
Above, left to right: traditional fishing boats; delicious Thai food; Buddhist monks
family traveller.com 17/12/2014 12:53
THAILAND
PHOTOGRAPHS: GETTY IMAGES, SHUTTERSTOCK
the big buddha
some kids had made them out of Play-Doh’, Louis observes – but the bizarre conjunction of the familiar and exotic seems to sum up the new Thailand. We have a similar experience on a visit to the 45m-tall Big Buddha being constructed in the south of the island, where five monks are chanting into microphones, lined up in order of seniority with the youngest sitting with a can of Fanta. He’s about the same age as our eldest, who lines up himself to be blessed by another monk, who ties a string band onto his wrist, destined to hang on, filthy and ragged, for months. We don’t know what’s said but it’s strangely solemn, even when Louis trips over on his way up. For the rest of the week, we’re unashamedly happy in our compound. We grown-ups might have liked a trip to eat out, perhaps, but there was more than enough for the boys. Thai food is ideal for mild culinary adventure, and Louis embraces the challenge with seafood noodles, broth and banana fritters at Baan Talay, the smartest of the resort’s restaurants. Alfie’s more cautious, but there’s a good range of bistro food and local flavours, even if the overfondness for the deep-fat fryer gets wearing. In the end, the credit for our best meal goes to us, when the hotel gives us a Thai cooking lesson. Once we’ve got over the sight of Alfie
standing over a wok of boiling oil and Louis wielding a knife the size of a small axe, we enjoy making a feast of beef salad (it’s all in the chilli and coriander dressing), chicken and cashew nuts and duck curry. We’re proud of ourselves until Alfie blows it by pointing out that, ‘They did everything so it wouldn’t be bad.’ By the end of the week, we’re into a rhythm of activity and rest, restaurant visits and wandering, followed by family movies in the sitting room. The grownups fit in a return to the spa and a trip to learning to co Laguna’s Canal Village shopping area, ok thai food with its Jim Thompson shop for silks and a mini-market. Meanwhile, the boys dive deeper into their pool investigations with masks and snorkels bought from a stand on the beach. A journey to the nearby Banyan Tree for lunch (which can be added automatically to the Angsana bill) only reinforces the sense that we’re in exactly the right place. It’s too quiet, formal and golfy for us. It helps that we’re in low season, where room occupancy is at half its high-season rate, but there’s an embarrassing number of activities we never quite get round to, from snooker to ping pong, yoga, Pilates and karaoke. It’s a tribute to the gentle charms of the resort and its attentive and kind staff. We leave with only one regret. As we’re struggling to close a stubborn suitcase on our final morning, there’s a yell from the sitting room. We dash in to find the boys pointing at the window, where a long-headed reptile is coming through the open door. Is this Albert? Or a baby crocodile, perhaps? It disappears before we can find out. ■
GR E W A LB E R T W I T H B I G G E R H TI N G EACH SI G
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on a 1,000-mile road trip
INFINITE HAPPINESS
Ikos Resorts redefine all-inclusive holidays with their new Infinite Lifestyle concept, bringing a new era of hospitality to the Mediterranean
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kos Oceania and Ikos Olivia in Halkidiki, Greece, offer beautiful beachfront settings and stylish accommodation. Whether you are seeking total relaxation or an active family holiday, it’s all here. Both resorts offer a wealth of activities to keep you and young ones busy. Tennis, beach badminton, aqua aerobics and yoga are just a few of the sports available at Ikos Oceania and Ikos Olivia. You will also find sailing academy courses, scuba diving, private boat tours and lots more watersports. If, on the other hand, you’re hankering for some romantic time with your loved one while your children are entertained at the OFSTED-standard crèche and kids’ club, then both Ikos Oceania and Ikos Olivia have the solution: their ‘Quiet Zones’ offer perfect surroundings for you to enjoy some uninterrupted quality time together. You won’t have to do a thing, as the friendly English-speaking staff make it their job to ensure your needs are fully catered for. The evenings offer exquisite dining options from around the world in any one of the five restaurants, some offering stunning views over the Aegean Sea. If you choose to dine in one of the à-la-carte restaurants, take advantage of the experienced sommeliers, who’ll be able to guide you through the extensive selection of local and international wines. But you don’t have to ‘eat in’ every night. Ikos Resorts offer a ‘Dine Out’ experience, too, having joined forces with specially selected local restaurants to offer a very tempting choice of traditional Greek dishes, all part of the all-inclusive experience.
TOUGH DECISION
Will you plump for Ikos Oceania or its brand-new sister resort, Ikos Olivia (this picture)
Other perks include 24-hour room service and beachside/poolside waiter service. Entertainment at Ikos promises West End-style shows to keep you and your family entertained throughout ere h d r the evening. If that doesn’t take your a d n ood is sta fancy, enjoy a relaxing drink at one dreamy f of the superb bars, which offer an extensive range of branded international and local spirits. Both resorts offer a deluxe collection for the ultimate indulgence. Benefits include, but are not limited to, a complimentary spa treatment, premium spirits in your minibar, dedicated swimming pool, exclusive area on the beach, kids movie library and even an Xbox/PlayStation on request. So what are the differences between Ikos Oceania and Ikos Olivia? Which should you go for?
infinite relaxatio
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THE LOWDOWN
family traveller.com
IKOS OCEANIA Transfer time: 30 minutes IKOS OLIVIA Transfer time: 45 minutes
Ikos Oceania has a stunning 350m-long natural sandy beach, fringed by pines, olive groves and cypress trees. It is set among 15 acres of well-groomed gardens with elegant guestrooms and suites which offer panoramic sea views with Mount Olympus in the background. Service is exemplary, so it’s no wonder Ikos Oceania was recently voted no 1 all-inclusive resort in Europe by Tripadvisor, The brand-new Ikos Olivia, opening in May 2015, spreads across 22 acres of lush gardens and olive groves, and boasts 450m of white sandy beach. It offers modern spacious guestrooms and junior suites overlooking the sparkling Aegean Sea, while the luxury one- and two-bedroom suites of the low-rise bungalows, with their groomed private gardens (some with beachfront access and others with heated private pools), are the epitome of style and comfort. These two luxury all-inclusive hotels offer stunning surroundings, exceptional service and facilities and, most importantly, the holiday that you and your family deserve.
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Direct flights to Thessaloniki international airport from London Gatwick (British Airways and Easyjet) and London Stansted (Ryanair) A seven-night holiday for two adults and two children at Ikos Oceania, in a Junior Suite Sea View in May Half-term, costs €1,949 (£1,536), including airport transfers (excludes flights). A seven-night holiday for two adults and two children at Ikos Olivia, in a Panorama Junior Suite Sea View in May half term, costs €2,053 (£1,617), including airport transfers (excludes flights).
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18/12/2014 14:28
scilly season
jemima nathan is captivated by the slow pace of life and rugged beauty of the Scilly Isles – and can’t wait to go back
A
ll aboard and up, up and away, and we’re off to the Isles of Scilly. The 60-minute flight from Exeter on the tiny 12-seater plane is a thrill. As we soar past the Cornish coast and over the Atlantic Ocean, we look out of the windows expectantly for the first glimpse of the islands. Then we see them – long, sandy beaches and rugged coastlines. With about 140 in this archipelago, it one of the largest in the world. It is a little windy, which only adds to our excitement as the plane gently sways down to land on St Mary’s, the largest of the five inhabited islands (the others being St Martin’s, St Agnes, Tresco and Bryher). We’re met by the locals who run transfer services to your hotel, guesthouse or boat transfer to another island. There’s a warm welcome from Bryony at the Mincarlo Guest House, which she runs with her husband, Nick. Both are islanders and, after being away for some time, have returned to the Sillies to run their business and bring up their family. There is a real sense of calm here. The view is stunning and our rooms look out onto the quay, which is full of bobbing boats. After complimentary
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we pass a fish and chip van. the smell is very tempting, and we make a note to return
tea and homemade biscuits in our room we decide to venture out for a look around the town. Hugh Town, the main settlement on St Mary’s, has a number of good restaurants and pubs, interesting shops, a museum and town hall. We pass a fish and chip van. The smell is very tempting, and we make a mental note to come back later. As we walk round to the other side of the quay, local children are having great fun jumping off the pier. The water looks a little chilly, but that doesn’t deter them. Their giggles carry on the breeze and are reminiscent of a time when children knew how to entertain themselves without gadgets and computer games. It’s refreshing to see, and as we breathe in the fresh island air, we check the boat times for the next day’s trip, and follow our noses back to the chip van. We take our fish suppers to the Porthcressa Beach, and find a nearby deserted, sheltered bench, turn off our phones and soak up the serenity. Next day, raring to go after our guesthouse breakfast, we wander around to the sailing club for some early-morning windsurfing lessons. Situated on Portmellon Beach, the bay is quiet and the water flat, so it’s ideal for teaching little ones. More experienced sailors can head slightly further out in the bay. The
family traveller.com 18/12/2014 10:49
at home
making a splash!
sailing club, run by local Scillonian Richard Mills, caters for all ages and abilities and offers one-to-one or group sessions. You can also hire kayaks, dinghies and day boats. Kids will love the Swallows and Amazons adventure, a two-and-a-half-hour sailing experience for seven- to 15-year-olds. Richard also runs the Endeavor, a fast water taxi and private charter for speedy thrills. After an exhilarating windsurfing lesson, we have some time for a little beachcombing. Bramble bushes all along the footpaths provide a tasty and juicy mid-morning snack. Next up is the short boat ride to Tresco, which is the only privately owned and family-run island of the
HAPPY DAYS Above, left to right: White-sand beach on Tresco; boys divebombing off the quay; sailing is a popular sport in Scilly; grey seals are a common sight
five. It’s a stunning spot, with bountiful flora and fauna. We’re on the lookout for Atlantic grey seals, seabirds, turtles and dolphins, all of which inhabit these waters. You can also spot the colourfulbeaked puffins from April to July. Off the boat, we wander along the path that meanders around the island, with its unspoilt beaches and heath covered in wild plants and flowers. By happy coincidence, the Tresco and Bryher Food Festival is taking place while we are here. There are stalls showcasing regional foods, locally caught crabs and other fishy delights, English wines and ales, and Cornish and Devonshire cheeses. This is a great family event, with a fish-filleting demonstration, wine-tasting for the adults and shrimping in the afternoon for all ages. Children love wading out in the wet sand with their nets to catch their prey under the guidance of the resident shrimpers. Tresco Abbey Garden is, without doubt, one of the finest botanical gardens in the world. With more than 4,000 species you’re transported to another world as you marvel at cacti from Mexico and flame trees from New Zealand. These plants are able to flourish here thanks to the Scillies’ mild winters and abundant sunshine. The collection started back in 1834. Sculptures from local artists add to the atmosphere. If salty shipwrecks are more your thing, Valhalla Museum is a must. It has some incredible figureheads from ancient shipwrecks with fascinating storyboards explaining what happened. As we leave by boat back to St Mary’s, we encounter a huge grey seal basking on the rocks. He’s so well-camouflaged, it would have been easy to miss him, but our eagle-eyed skipper steers us just a little nearer. There are supervised trips on St Martin’s where you can go snorkelling and watch
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20 THINGS TO DO ON THE SCILLIES
HOW TO GET THERE
the tresco and br
yher food festival
Ferry from Penzance from £43 each way; flights from Land’s End from £70, from Newquay from £90, and from Exeter from £135 one way. Book via Isles of Scilly Travel (islesofscilly-travel.co.uk). Train from London to Exeter from £14, to Newquay from £37.50 and to Penzance from £38.50 one way. A twin cabin on the sleeper costs from £110.50 one way (firstgreatwestern.co.uk).
family traveller.com
the seals swim gracefully in their natural environment (for eight-year-olds and upwards). The next day, we set off by boat for Bryher. We’re dropped off on the beach opposite Tresco. On a A highlight of Bryher is Hell Bay, an particularly low tide, you can walk WHERE TO STAY Double or twin rooms at Mincarlo award-winning family hotel that looks out between the two islands. Following Guest House, St Mary’s, cost from over the Atlantic. The light is immense the little road up towards the town £74 per night, including breakfast here, so we take a moment to relax with hall, there is an art gallery and shop, (mincarlo.info). Family suites at Hell a drink on the deck that leads off the bar the Vine Café and only a handful of Bay Hotel cost from £120 per person and restaurant. Children can play and houses. Wooden stalls dot this car-free per night full board. (hellbay.co.uk). explore without having to venture too island, selling homegrown fruit and For more accommodation go to far. The oversized chessboard in the vegetables, sometimes small bunches visitislesofscilly.co.uk or tresco.co.uk courtyard proves popular. of flowers, and you just put the money Bryher has tremendous walks. We in the honesty box. head along the northern part of the island The food festival is in full swing with under beautiful blue skies, through stunning jagged refreshing, homemade lemonade and children’s landscape. There is a well-trodden path to follow, workshops, such as build your own ice cream sundae, which makes for easy walking if you have little ones. hosted by Troytown Dairy (kids can learn how ice To the south of the island there is much to explore. cream is made at its farm on St Agnes). A budding It is steeped in history and there is an abundance gardeners’ workshop will kickstart a love of growof oyster catchers, curlews and seals bobbing in the your-own; each child leaves with a packet of seeds. water at Droopy Nose Point. Head down to the other side of Bryher, and It is time to catch the boat back to our guesthouse, you’ll come across the Golden Eagle Studio of artist and we’re a little sad to leave Bryher. These serene and Richard Pearce. When he’s not in, the door is left magical islands have so much to offer families. We open for visitors so they can take at look at and buy have made a pact to return soon, so we can explore his stunning sea- and landscapes. There’s an honesty some more and create new adventures together. ■ box on the side, with a friendly note.
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PHOTOGRAPHS: ROBERT HARDING, ALAMY
SCILLY ISLES: THE LOWDOWN
1 Spot puffins on the rocks (April to July). 2 Eat ice cream at Troytown Farm on St Agnes and meet the cows. 3 Go shrimping. 4 Go crabbing at low tide. 5 Fly a kite. 6 Pick your own blackberries (September). 7 Stand on the rocks at Droopy Nose Point on Bryher and spot seals. 8 Hire kayaks and explore the coastline at your own pace. 9 Watch a slideshow of the history of the islands at St Mary’s Methodist Church. 10 Build sandcastles on the beach. 11 Visit the open-air travelling theatre on Tresco and St Mary’s. 12 Check out the figureheads from real shipwrecks at the Valhalla Museum, Tresco. 13 Visit Abbey Garden on Tresco. 14 Hire bikes and explore. 15 Try a variety of watersports at the sailing club (sailingscilly.com). 16 As dusk falls, look for luminous phosphorescence in the shallows of Green Bay, Bryher. 17 Visit the outdoor playpark – complete with slides, swings and pirate ship – on St Mary’s. 18 Go snorkelling with the seals on St Martin’s (scillysealsnorkelling.com). 19 Walk between Tresco and Bryher at low tide.
family traveller.com 18/12/2014 10:49
WIN A FOUR-NIGHT FAMILY BREAK ON THE ISLES OF SCILLY
PHOTOGRAPHS: ADAM WHITE, ROB LEA
T
he Isles of Scilly are an outstandingly beautiful and unspoilt cluster of islands just off the coast of Cornwall. Take the short trip to crystal-clear waters, white-sand beaches, breathtaking scenery and a climate so mild, you might find it hard to believe you’re still in Britain. One lucky family has the chance to win a four-night break for four, staying two nights at the award-winning Hell Bay Hotel on the island of Bryher and two nights at the Sea Garden Cottages on Tresco, with breakfast and dinner included. Free entry to Abbey Garden and bike hire on Tresco, plus return travel from Cornwall, courtesy of Isles of Scilly Travel, are also included. Set in a picturesque cove, Hell Bay Hotel is a private oasis where families can relax together. With just 25 suites, this stylish haven includes an outdoor heated pool, tennis court, spa treatment room and an acclaimed restaurant. The Sea Garden Cottages on Tresco are set in landscaped gardens, just yards from the shore. Spacious, light, open-plan living areas with original artworks lead onto private decks – ideal for al fresco dining, overlooking the clear Tresco waters.
HELL BAY HOTEL, BRYHER
THE SEA GARDEN COTTAGES, TRESCO
While on Tresco, you and your family can enjoy free entry to the world-renowned sub-tropical Abbey Garden, which has a spectacular collection of more than 20,000 exotic plants. Enjoy complimentary travel from Isles of Scilly Travel with return Skybus flights from Land’s End airport or return passenger ship crossings from Penzance. Flying over on the 19-seater Skybus takes just 15 minutes from Land’s End, and is a unique way to visit this special destination. For more information, see visitislesofscilly.com
FOR YOUR CHANCE TO WIN THIS HOLIDAY ON THE ISLES OF SCILLY, VISIT FAMILYTRAVELLER.COM/COMPETITIONS AND ANSWER ONE EASY QUESTION Terms and conditions apply. See familytraveller.com
A MILLION MILES FROM THE SCHOOL RUN 1hr from Exeter Airport
FLY TO THE ISLES OF SCILLY IN 1 HOUR FROM EXETER, 30 MINUTES FROM NEWQUAY AND JUST 15 MINUTES FROM LAND’S END AIRPORT. BE TRANSPORTED AT WWW.ISLESOFSCILLY-TRAVEL.CO.UK 01736 334220
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The daily commute Soar Mill Cove style…
Step out the door and adventure is waiting to be discovered.
One of the Sunday Times ‘Ultimate 100 British Hotels’.
With the magic of the cove on our doorstep, Soar Mill Cove hotel is the perfect place for wild romance, adventure and relaxation. Great for walking holidays in Devon and with our Discovery Spa ready to restore and rejuvenate, time at the cove is really ‘you’ time. Why not steal away to the sea and discover a place where memories are waiting to be made.
Call us on 01548 561566 and… dis
Tel: 01548 561566 info@soarmillcove.co.uk www.soarmillcove.co.uk
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Nr Salcombe South Devon TQ7 3DS
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WEST COUNTRY ROOMS WITH A VIE
The Cary Arms, Babbacombe
ON THE ROCKS
Rockpooling at Tesanton, Cornwall
V
CORNWALL DEVON AMANDA STATHAM has been visiting Cornwall and Devon since childhood and knows exactly where to head for the best beach, ice cream, fish and chips and surf
BEST GARDENS
CORNWALL: Trebah Garden sits in a lush valley of sub-tropical flowers and trees with children’s trails and an adventure playground that cascades down to the Helston River, where a private beach is a good place for a picnic (or treat yourselves to lunch at The Boathouse Café). Buckets and spades are provided. trebahgarden.co.uk
BEST CREAM TEA CORNWALL: Miss V’s Tearoom and Garden (07500 418504) at 15th-century St Benet’s Abby near Bodmin is worth taking a detour for. Owner Amy Long bakes scones using a secret recipe passed down through her family and they’re absolutely delicious.
DEVON: Castlehill, a beautiful Palladian DEVON: Budleigh-based Otterton mansion in north Devon, has 50 acres Mill’s light and fluffy scones are of gardens for kids to run around in and made fresh with flour from the mill, plenty of things to do, such as climbing served with local jam and sinfully an enormous tanglewood tree, thick clotted and follies and temples to cream. Check out TEA BREAK discover. There are lots the events there, A cream tea of events throughout including RSPB is a must the year, too, such nature days. as Easter egg hunts. ottertonmill.com castlehilldevon.co.uk
W
BEST HOTEL FOR FAMILIES CORNWALL: Tresanton in St Mawes is the chicest family-friendly hotel in Cornwall. Everything’s been thought of. There’s a playroom, kids’ garden, cinema room for film nights, children’s meal served between 5.30 and 6.30pm plus a babysitting service. Rooms from £250 per night; suites from £490. tresanton.com DEVON: The stylish Cary Arms in Babbacombe ensures all members of the family feel welcome. Cots, extra beds, high chairs and kettles to warm milk can be provided in-room. The Captain’s Suite, with a separate bedroom for kids, is best. From £175 per night; Captain’s Suite from £335. caryarms.co.uk
BEST FISH AND CHIPS
CORNWALL: The best I’ve bought are from Harbour Fish & Chips on the seafront in St Ives. Fish (cod, hake, sea bass, sole, haddock, mackerel) is sourced daily from a local fishmonger and you can have it battered or grilled, with chips or salad, plus lots of other options to keep kids happy. harbourfishandchips.co.uk DEVON: Award-winning Squires in Braunton is an institution, thanks to perfectly battered fish with chunky chips and proper mushy peas. It’s a little swisher – wood floors and tables – than when I first visited 22 years ago and there’s a more extensive menu, but it’s still basically a great takeaway and café for kids of all ages. squires fishrestaurant.co.uk
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Stylish self catering holiday cottages in South Devon
Luxury family holidays www.westcharletongrange.com
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WEST COUNTRY
BEST PLACE TO SURF
CORNWALL: For beginners, you can’t beat the Extreme Academy at Watergate Bay. Enthusiastic instructors make lessons fun, even on a cold day, the surf’s big enough to make you feel like you’ve got involved and, when it’s all over, you can’t beat a hot chocolate at the Beach Hut. extremeacademy.co.uk DEVON: Get the kids signed up at Croyde Surf Academy, which operates from a blue double-decker bus in Down End car park and guarantees to have them riding a wave on their first lesson or the second lesson’s free. croydesurfacademy.com PECKING ORDER
Collecting eggs at Feather Down Farm
BEST FAMILY ATTRACTION
CORNWALL: Wandering around the Eden Project’s space-age domes (above) filled with tropical rainforest and Mediterranean plants never gets boring. It’s also home to the UK’s longest zip-wire, and in summer there’s a T-Rex on the loose. edenproject.com DEVON: The Big Sheep is an enormously fun family day out. There’s sheep racing, lamb feeding, pony rides, a soft-play barn to jump around in, farm safaris, self-drive tractors, swan pedalos and a small train. Older kids can visit the Ultimate Adventure Centre next door. thebigsheep.co.uk
BEST BEACH BEST QUIRKY CAMPSITE
CORNWALL: Barefoot Glamping, on the Lizard Peninsula, has two luxe safari tents and Rusty the Tin Tent, a converted shipping container (as seen on George Clarke’s Amazing Spaces). It’s slow travel at its best, with a log-burning stove and an honesty shop with Cornish pasties, eggs and milk. barefoot-glamping.co.uk DEVON: Feather Down Farm campsites are fantastic for families, and Billingsmoor Farm in south Devon is ideal for young animal lovers. Watch cows being milked, pet pigs and sheep and hire a guinea pig for the week. featherdown.co.uk
CORNWALL: Leopallooza was shortlisted for best family festival in the 2014 Festival Awards, and it’s not surprising. This music-lovers’ gathering near Bude is small, safe and fun. Entry is free for kids under five, and there’s a play area and family camping section, showers and toilets. leopallooza.com
CORNWALL: Carbis Bay has everything you could need for a fun day at the seaside: soft, golden sand, shops and cool cafés, toilets, watersports and even a small train connecting Carbis to St Ives. DEVON: I adore Saunton Sands for its 3 miles of golden beach and enormous rolling sand dunes, which are such fun to slide, roll or run down and play hide and seek in. The water’s a bit rough for swimming, so if you have toddlers and want something less wild, try Woolacombe Sands, a safe haven of rockpooling, swimming, toilets and cafés.
FIELD DAY
Beautiful Days festival
CORNWALL: Roskilly’s, produced at Tregellast Barton Farm on the Lizard Peninsula, is world class. The on-site parlour serves organic ice cream made with milk from the farm’s cows. Kids are likely to want a sundae, which they can pimp with sauces, nuts, fudge, chocolate or even fresh fruit. roskilly.co.uk DEVON: Not to be outdone, Devon has the superb Otter Valley Dairy near Honiton, which also has a tiny parlour on a working farm that serves imaginatively flavoured ice cream, such as rhubarb and ginger. There are ice cream cakes and frozen yogurts, too. ottervalleydairy.co.uk ■
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Carbis Bay
BEST ICE CREAM
BEST FAMILY FESTIVAL
DEVON: Beautiful Days has a huge children’s area, with so many activities for all ages that nobody will get bored. There’s theatre, dressing up, circus, rides, story telling, face painting, plus family-friendly performances in the Theatre Tent.
LIFE’S A BEACH
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LuxuRy FamiLy HoLiDays at Cornwall’s premier resort
MasterChef restaurant ‘the Green rooM’ flowrider surf wave ConCierGe serviCe adventure aCadeMy, froM tots to teens february half terM froM £679
Quote faMilytraveller to receive your complimentary Cornish food hamper Winnards Perch, Nr Padstow TR9 6DE
01637 882500 www.retallackresort.co.uk | stay@retallackresort.com
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SO NEAR, SO FAR Escape to the Isle of Wight for a winter break the whole family can enjoy
Freshwater Bay
THE LOWDOWN HOW TO GET THERE
The Into The Woods treehouse
Culture and shopping can be found in the many pretty towns and villages across the island. Ryde, Ventnor, Cowes and Yarmouth are perhaps the most famous with lots of independent shops (and famous names) as well as cafés and restaurants to browse and enjoy. Other gems include The Garlic Farm, which has a superb shop and restaurant (and more garlic facts than you thought possible), or the peaceful tranquility of Quarr Abbey, with its stunning grounds, farm, gallery and restaurant. There’s a wide choice of accommodation from self-catering to b&bs, camping and luxury hotels. One of our favourites is the relatively new Into the Woods treehouse, which offers a back-to-basics experience but with a touch of luxe. It’s perfect for a cosy winter retreat. Kids will love the Spyglass Inn in the seaside town of Ventnor. It’s a pirate-themed pub that serves hearty, home-cooked food that the whole family will enjoy. With endless of opportunities to escape the hustle and bustle of mainland life and unwind this winter, there’s no better time to board a ferry and experience all the Isle of Wight has to offer.
Osborne House
E X PLO R E T S TUNN I N HE GRO UNDSG
WHERE TO STAY
Into The Woods A two-night weekend break costs from from £350 for up to six people (intothewoodsiow.com).
WHAT TO DO
Bike hire for half a day costs £10 for adults and £8 for children with Isle of Wight Cycle Hire (wightcyclehire.co.uk). Fossil hunting at Dinosaur Isle is available November to March (dinosaurisle.com).
PHOTOGRAPHS: VISIT ISLE OF WIGHT
F
or families in need of a short break over the colder months, there is no need to travel far. Just across the water, an idyllic island exists that offers the perfect opportunity for families to spend time together and gain some well-deserved room to breathe. Stepping on board one of Wightlink’s modern fleet of ferries or catamarans, the whole family can enjoy a relaxing and comfortable journey over to the Isle of Wight. In the warm comfort of the boat and with a mug of hot chocolate in hand, everyone can sit back, relax and take in the beautiful sea views on the all-too-short crossing. The island is ideal for lovers of the outdoors. For families who want to explore, bike hire is available year round, which means you can explore the island’s cycle (and walking) paths, many of which hug the coastline. There are many attractions open all year as well. The Needles Park offers jaw-dropping views and plenty of fresh air. Visit Dinosaur Isle and retrace the footsteps of the land’s scariest creatures, or head to Osborne House and explore the stunning gardens and lavish grounds that once belonged to Queen Victoria.
Ferry crossings from Portsmouth to Fishbourne or Lymington to Yarmouth cost from £65 return for a car and passengers. Catamaran crossings from Portsmouth to Ryde cost from £23.60 per adult and £11.80 per child return (wightlink.co.uk).
The Wightlink ferry
The Needles Park’s Dinosaur Isle
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The Isle of Wight is the place to be and Wightlink is the way to get there. Step on board your Wightlink ferry and let your adventure begin. Relax, unwind and get away from it all. From beautiful beaches to theme parks and dinosaurs, castles to family walks and cycling in the great outdoors, everyone can have their perfect escape. Start planning your Wightlink break right now and take time out on an Island where there’s… room to breathe.
Experience the best of the Isle of Wight with Wightlink
wightlink.co.uk
37117 RTB Winter Family traveller Magazine Ad 297x210 v3.indd 1 Wight Link Ad.indd 117
Downloa d your fr Wightlin ee k for ‘on th App e go’ Island inspiratio n!
11/12/2014 14:33 16/12/2014 09:26
RISE TO THE C
HEAVE HO
Sarah hoists herself to the top of the cliff face LIKE A WET WEEKEND
Despite the weather, The Sieses were all smiles
SARAH SIESE and her family headed west to Wales for an adventure-packed half-term break CHALLENGE 1
CLIMBING AND ABSEILING
This is mad. Actually mad. It’s quite exhilarating. No, it’s totally exasperating. No, exciting. It’s terrifying. A million voices in my head at once, conflicting messages saying, ‘You can, you can’t, you can, you can’t, you’re weak, come on, you can do it, just keep going…’ And then I’m at the top of the rock face looking down at the sheer drop I’ve scaled barehanded. Now that’s satisfying. WHERE TO STAY We’ve picked up an all-terrain Camp in the wilderness at Hyundai for the weekend in pursuit of the Preston-on-Wye some high-octane adventure around campsite (wyecamphere. the Brecon Beacons, and there’s no com). Non-campers going back now. It’s the wettest day can opt for the lovely Dairy House Farm in of the month, but we’re oblivious to Monnington-on-Wye the rain as we contemplate the task (dairyhousfram.org). our guide, ex-para Andy Talbot, has
THE LOWDOWN
OFFROADER
The Hyundai handled everything that was thrown at it
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issued. Taking turns as the belaying anchor, mastering the technique as ground handler, controlling the rate of the next climber’s descent, requires concentration. In comparison, abseiling down is pure pleasure, requiring none of the core strength to make the ascent. I never thought slippery rock faces could be so fun.
WHAT TO DO
All the activities mentioned can be booked via the Ultimate Activity Company. A half day costs £35 per person, a full day costs £45 (ultimate-activity company.co.uk).
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wales
TAKING THE PLUNGE
One brave customer greets the icy water face-first
ALL THUMBS
Our brave writer shows us what she thinks
WATER BABIES
Sarah’s daughters paddle with gusto
A ROCK AND A HARD PLACE
Squeezing through a watery crevace
HE CHALLENGE CHALLENGE 2
NEED TO KNOW
GOOD GULLY
The family battle upstream
CHALLENGE 3
PHOTOGRAPH: NEIL EMMERSON
CAMPING
I am not a camper. But this isn’t just any campsite; it’s a haven on the banks of the River Wye – wilderness camping at its best that feels more safari than glamping. We’re in real cider country, and the farm opposite has 500 acres of orchard turning an autumnal glow. With no other campers around (bliss), we’re as happy as bugs in a rug in snug sleeping bags in our tepee, kept warm by a wood burner. Supper, a previously prepared ratatouille, chicken and jacket spuds cooked on a giant brazier, proves what every girl guide knows: it’s all in the preparation. ■ For Bella and Chessie’s (and dad Johnnie’s) take on their adventure weekend, go to familytraveller.com/brecon
family tra
Now in its third generation, the multiple-award-winning Santa Fe, with the option of five or seven seats, is a practical mix of spacious interior, desirable features and solid driving experience. The big Hyundai is also loved by out-of-towners for its optional 4x4 powertrain and go-anywhere ability – an important consideration at this time of year.
GORGE WALKING
Wearing wetsuits and scrappy trainers, we jump into the River Mellte. My girls – Bella, 16, and Chessie, 14 – squeal at the cold. I can barely breathe. What on earth am I doing getting the family to jump into freezing water in the last week of October? We clamber over icy rock faces between crags and fast flowing water, slither headfirst through a wormhole, jump off banks into a waterfall and, most intrepid of all, crawl between a hidden rock face and pounding cascade. I remember watching Tarzan do that in a 1970s movie, so have no compunction letting out a hearty ‘Arggghhhh-arghhhhh’ as I leap, nose pinched (not quite so Tarzan), from ridge to bubbling waterfall.
HYUNDAI SANTA FE THE LOWDOWN
WELL-EARNED REST
Snug tepees were the perfect place to flop
Model: Hyundai Santa Fe 2.2-litre diesel (4WD with six-speed manual transmission). Family friendly features: Five or seven seats, including one-touch folding second row, rear armrest with cupholder, underfloor storage, seven airbags, Isofix child-seat fixings. Euro NCAP safety rating: Maximum five stars. Fuel economy: 46.3mpg. CO2 emissions: 159g/km. Price: £27,995 to £37,105. hyundai.co.uk
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ROAD TRIP SOUTH DOWNS RICHARD YARROW test drives the Mercedes C-Class on a family weekend
PORTSMOUTH SHIP SHAPE
I
’m sure you’ve stayed in family rooms in hotels. The smallest size of double bed, a couple of singles crammed in or, worse still, a fold-out sofa – and just enough floor BACK TO NATURE space to shuffle between everything to get to Foraging with the tiny bathroom. My tribe are connoisseurs r John Rhyde on the subject, so believe me when I tell you we have just experienced the best ever. There are family rooms, and then there is the Queen’s Suite at The Spread Eagle Hotel & Spa, at Midhurst, West Sussex. So named because Elizabeth I is reported to have stayed there, it’s all uneven floors, antique furniture and beams, one of which goes right through the shower cubicle. For Mum and Dad, there’s HISTORY LESSON a gorgeous four-poster, then separate beds for The Mary Rose Museum, Portsmouth two kids in an annexe. The Spread Eagle is one of the UK’s oldest surviving coaching inns, parts of which date back to 1430. It’s an ideal base for exploring the stunning South Downs and Sussex coastline. We couldn’t resist the 30-minute drive to Portsmouth’s Historic Dockyard and a tour round the recently opened Mary Rose Museum. Our transport was the all-new Mercedes C-Class estate, a stylish and sports-oriented wagon that features some clever design touches aimed at people with active little ones. For Blue Peter-watching parents of a certain age, seeing the Mary Rose is a trip down Memory Lane. Who doesn’t remember that large yellow steel frame emerging from the waves in 1982? The new exhibition centres on the ship’s intact hull and thousands of artefacts brought to the surface after more than 400 years underwater. There’s so much on display that kids could easily get bored, but with plenty of interactive stuff that’s unlikely to happen. Right next door, a tour round HMS Victory also gives little ones plenty to touch. Nelson’s flagship is in amazing condition and gives a real insight into what life was like was like for sailors of the era. Pay attention to the ‘Mind Your Head’ signs!
THE SPREAD EAGLE HOTEL
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HMS Victory, Portsmouth
WHAT THE MOTORING PRESS SAYS… ‘You can flop any of the three rear seats down at the touch of a button, which is neat.’ telegraph.co.uk ‘Mercedes is keen you see this as a lifestyle-leader rather than a load-lugger – think outdoor pursuits.’ parkers.co.uk ‘The interior is a highlight. Even basic models get highquality gloss black surfaces, with satin chrome highlights.’ carbuyer.co.uk
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THE HIGH LIFE
motoring
ON YER BIKE
Seven Sisters Country Park
Cycling the South Downs Way
MERCEDES C-CLASS ESTATE THE LOWDOWN
SOUT H DOWNS WAY
family traveller.com
PHOTOGRAPHS: ALAMY, SHUTTERSTOCK, SHUTTERSTOCK/LILY TROTT
The smallest of Mercedes’ estates, this latest version of the popular C-Class brings a touch of luxury to the family-car market. The cabin layout is practical, but also beautifully designed, spacious and relaxing to drive. The only TOP GEAR element I didn’t like was the The Mercedes C-Clas s at The Spread Eagle confusing central dial, which controlled many of the car’s function.
A dockyard family ticket bought online is £58.80 and allows repeat visits. With NEED TO KNOW numerous other ships to see, Model: 2.1-litre 170bhp diesel with including a ferry ride to a seven-speed automatic gearbox. submarine, there’s far more Trim level: mid-spec ‘Sport’ grade. than a day’s worth of Family-friendly features: engaging activities. reversible boot floor mat, boot Back at The Spread Eagle, storage nets, three-section we headed for the spa, which (40/20/40) split-folding rear seat includes an indoor pool open with ‘electric fold’ buttons in the to families from 10.30am to boot, low-level rear seats for 12.30pm and 3pm to 5pm easy child access. every day. Treatments are Euro NCAP safety rating: 5 stars. available and there’s a Fuel economy: 64.2 mpg. LS MEET THE ANIMA Jacuzzi, sauna and steam CO2 emissions: 115 g/km. Alpacas at room. After that it was a Price: £28,055-£36,710. bike shop All Ride Fishers Adventure Now will hire out lovely dinner in the bar, Farm Park the necessary kit. although there’s also the Also based in the town is the Woodcraft restaurant for something more formal. The kids’ menu School, which offers expert tuition in was simple but had popular choices, and came on a bushcraft, wildlife tracking and natural history. bespoke menu card with activities that passed the time Chief instructor John Rhyder is vastly before the food came, including ‘10 things to do at The experienced and offers adult courses on Spread Eagle before you’re grown-up’, such as shaking everything from fire lighting to bow making – a hands with a suit of armour and sitting where Guy great birthday present for an adventurous dad. Fawkes allegedly plotted to destroy parliament. He is also available for private hire and regularly On the way back to the room, we found the tailors the courses for family groups, with prices children’s library, a shelf of books, which staff are happy starting at £200 per day. We met with John for a for you to borrow and even take home as long as they’re guided walk through the 250 acres of private posted back. It’s a thoughtful touch. woodland he uses as a base, and learned about which The South Downs is Britain’s newest National Park leaves and fungi you can eat and which to steer clear and home to a range of outdoor family activities, of. The best advice seems to be don’t eat anything including zorbing, mountainboarding and various watersports. For dramatic coastline, head to the Seven unless you’re 100 per cent sure. Spotting tracks in the mud made by badgers, pheasants and Sisters Country Park, a huge expanse of chalk cliffs, meandering river valley and open grassland that’s deer was a fabulous way to round off our visit to the South Downs. ■ popular for walks, bird watching and canoeing. Fishers Adventure Farm Park has been recommended by friends as a good day out for younger A family room at The Spread Eagle Hotel & Spa visitors. For teenagers, the South Downs Way is a costs from £109 per night (hshotels.co.uk/ popular cycle route passing close to Midhurst, and local spread-eagle-hotel-and-spa) LET IT ROLL
Zorbing on the South Downs
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P&O Cruises’ Britannia
SAIL OF TH E
The onboard sports court
Two new megaships are set to revolutionise family
britannia
Kids’ clubs to suit all ages
The biggest ship built for the British cruise market promises to be a foodie’s heaven, thanks to its line-up of celebrity chefs and P&O Cruises’ first cookery club at sea. It has a number of new elements, such as a supper club with live entertainment; a state-of-the-art space for films, plays and lectures; and a teens-only splash pool. The Glass House wine and food bar, overseen by TV wine expert Olly Smith, will have an al fresco terrace while Saturday Kitchen host chef James Martin will oversee the 12 bespoke kitchen stations in the Cookery Club. A range of other celebrity chefs has also been lined up to run courses. Britannia will have a sports area on its top deck as well as four swimming pools. The Serenity pool and bar is a quiet, chill-out zone where adults can sunbathe while their children participate in the many organised activities.
SUPERVISED FACILITIES FOR CHILDREN
TA K E T H E PL U N GE
One of Britannia’s four pools
Making new friends is all part of the fun
Britannia offers a complimentary night nursery for children aged six months to five years. The kids’ clubs, under the banner The Reef, cater for children aged two to 17 and are split into four age groups. Two- to four-year-olds can enjoy arts and crafts, games, singing and parties; five- to eight-year-olds have a puppet theatre, games area, Lego pits and gaming consoles; nine- to 12-year-olds have a dance floor, games consoles, designated arts and crafts area, Lego pits, pool table and air hockey machine. The teen zone includes an interactive DJ system, games consoles, designated arts and crafts area, pool table and arcade machines, plus activities including arts and crafts, games, quizzes and discos. Free half-hour cookery classes are ● Britannia is longer than available for under-16s. four and a half Airbus A380 superjumbos or the Eiffel DINING WITH KIDS IN TOW Tower laid on its side. Early suppers for children are laid on in the Horizon ● The ship’s engines buffet. Sweet and savory treats will be offered by generate 62,400 kilowatts French master patissier Eric Lanland’s Market of power, equivalent to Café, part of the vast three-tier atrium in the heart 70 Challenger tanks or 84 Bugatti Veyrons. of the ship. Other family-friendly dining options include a poolside pizzeria and Michelin-starred ● Britannia has 13 bars chef Atul Kochhar’s Sindhu restaurant. and 13 restaurants and cafés across its 15 passenger decks. A seven-night cruise, departing from Southampton and calling at La Rochelle, Bilbao, La Coruna and ● The ship carries Guernsey, costs from £719 per person in an inside 1,400 crew to look after cabin. A family bake-off excursion at Cookery Cottage its 3,600 passengers. in Cork is available on Ireland cruises. pocruises.com
FUN FACTS
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cruis
SU R F’ S UP
Royal Caribbean’s Anthem of the Seas
H E CENTURY
amily
cruising
cruising in 2015. By PHIL DAVIES
Surfing is popular with kids of all ages
Dodgems on a ship. Who knew?
anthem of the seas
Royal Caribbean’s Anthem of the Seas has a range of innovations such as robot bar tenders and virtual ocean views from inside cabins. Children can drive bumper cars, go roller skating, try sky diving in a special 23ft-tall simulator, join a circus school or go surfing. That’s not to mention the North Star, which rises 300ft above sea level, giving London Eye-type views of the ocean. Live music is a big part of the Anthem experience with tribute bands performing in the Music Hall complete with a dance floor. The vast Two70 multi-level room at the rear of the ship features six giant Roboscreens on robotic arms which are synced to move with live performers. Live bands and top performers are also beamed onto the screens together with 3D effects. The ship also has a 3D cinema and an outdoor movie screen.
SUPERVISED FACILITIES FOR CHILDREN
Anthem of the Seas has a nursery for children from six to 36 months. In-room babysitting is also available. Kids’ clubs are split into three age groups: Aquanauts (three to five), Explorers (six to eight) and Voyagers (nine to 11). Activities range from movie nights and scavenger hunts to talent shows and superhero afternoons. There are also visits from Dreamworks movie characters. Teens can learn how to DJ, enjoy guitar jamming sessions and film-night pool parties and take part in a range of sports. Teen spa treatments are also available. Kids of all ages will love the H2O Zone, a mini waterpark with water cannons and a waterfall. SeaPlex is a futuristic space that transforms from a sports and games venue by day to music and dancing by night. Four SeaPod ● The ship is the same activity rooms feature a gaming suite with Xboxes. length as 41 London buses.
FUN FACTS
DINING WITH KIDS IN TOW Children go to the casual Windjammer restaurant for lunch when the ship is in port and for dinner every night. Other family-friendly dining options include Johnny Rockets diner, SeaPlex Dog House, Jamie’s Italian and Sorrento’s pizza restaurant. ■ A 10-night Sunshine in the Canaries cruise, departing from Southampton and calling at Madeira, Tenerife, Las Palmas, Lanzarote and Vigo, costs from £5,804 for a family of four in an ocean-view cabin. Excursions include a whale and dolphin safari off the Madeira coast, a camel ride in Gran Canaria and river rafting. royalcaribbean.co.uk
● It carries 4,905 passengers and 1,500 crew, which would more than fill the Royal Albert Hall.
Skydiving aboard Anthem of the Seas
The North Star offers bird’s-eye views
● Anthem
of the Seas took three years to construct, and is more than double the size of the QE2.
● More than 250,000 passengers will sail on Anthem of the Seas each year – that’s more than the population of Swansea or Aberdeen.
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BOOKS
WORDS & PICTURES
The latest books and films reviewed by RACHAEL NEWBERRY
FRANKIE’S MAGIC FOOTBALL: FRANKIE’S NEW YORK ADVENTURE by Frank Lampard, £4.99 Age: 5+ Frankie and his team head to New York, where they meet the Statue of Liberty and a young boy with big dreams of becoming a baseball player. They’re on a mission to help him make his dreams come true.
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MONSTROUS
THE DARKEST PART OF THE FOREST
by MarcyKate Connolly, £10.99 Age: 14+
by Holly Black, £10.99 Age: 12+
Kymera has wings, a tail and neck bolts, and has been created to rescue the girls of Bryce from an evil wizard. But she must not be seen by humans. One night, however, she is accidentally seen by a boy called Ren, who overcomes his own fears to help her in her quest.
Sister and brother Hazel and Ben live in the magical town of Fairfold. A boy with horns and pointed ears has been sleeping for many years in a casket in a forest. But what happens when he awakens and Fairfold is swept up in a new world of divided loyalties, new love and possible betrayal?
SNOOZEFEST
LONG TAIL KITTY: COME OUT AND PLAY
by Samantha Berger, £10.85 Age: 6+
by Lark Pien, £11.08 Age: 5+
Who would most love to attend a festival of sleep? A sloth, that’s who. After months of sleep, Snuggleford packs a suitcase, boards a bus, and arrives at the annual SnoozeFest in NuzzleDome. Amid fashion shows, gigs and bands, she hangs her hammock and… sleeps.
Kitty and his friends negotiate jealousies, rivalries and love in this beautiful graphic book about friendship. It is delightful to meet Kitty again in the familiar surroundings of his house by the hill by the meadow, by the lake, by the town, by the bridge, by the house where he lives.
family traveller.com 16/12/2014 09:29
FILMS
INTO THE WOODS
Certificate: PG Released: 9 January
PHOTOGRAPHS: GETTY IMAGES
Into the Woods combines a number of classic fairytales – Little Red Riding Hood, Rapunzel, Jack and the Beanstalk and Cinderella – to tell the musical tale of a bad witch (Meryl Streep) who puts a curse on the entire group. A childless baker and his wife ( James Corden and Emily Blunt) must set the fairytale characters free from the curse. Johnny Depp is brilliant as the big bad wolf.
SEVENTH SON
SHAUN THE SHEEP MOVIE
Certificate: PG Released: 6 February
Certificate: U Release date: 6 February
Spook, the seventh son of a seventh son, has protected his country from witches, ghouls and boggarts for many years. But he is getting old and needs an apprentice. His last hope is farmer’s son Thomas Ward. But can Thomas protect people from the country’s deadliest witch?
Shaun is bored and decides to take the day off and have some fun. Inevitably, he and his friends end up in trouble, after a bit of a mix-up with the farmer and a caravan. Suddenly finding themselves in the big city, Shaun and the flock must lead the animals home to the safety of the farm.
THE WOMAN IN BLACK: ANGEL OF DEATH Certificate: 15 Released: 1 January Helen McCrory and Jeremy Irvine star in this sequel, set 40 years after the first haunting. A group of World War II evacuees arrive at Eel Marsh House with their teachers, awakening the dark inhabitant from a place that has been deserted for many years.
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Q&A
‘I’M A GREAT BELIEVER IN WORD OF MOUTH’ Life-long traveller, motorcycle enthusiast and TV presenter CHARLEY BOORMAN tells Jane Anderson about his childhood holidays, skiing with his kids and why he doesn’t trust online reviews What was your first FAMILY TRAVELLERS memorable holiday Charley Boorman with as a child? wife Olivia and daughters My father is the film director Kinvara and Doone John Boorman, so as children we travelled all over the world while he made his movies. Travel has been instilled in me since I was a tiny kid. My strongest childhood travel memory was when we lived in South Carolina for a very long summer when my father was directing Deliverance. I have vivid memories of playing in the river with my twin sister and my two older sisters, and think that it’s always a good idea to take this very red clay that they have there. some Calpol and a basic medical kit that We had a fantastic summer in an works for you. environment that was completely different from our home in County What is the most unusual souvenir you Wicklow in Ireland. I also loved Los have in your home? Angeles and hanging out on the beach. Every year I take motorcycle tours to And I remember telling my dad to drive Africa. I think it’s really important to get faster on the way to Disneyland because I thought all the cars that were overtaking us were going to get there first. Where do you travel with your kids? I love holidaying with my wife, Olivia and two daughters, Kinvara, 17, and Doone, 18, in Spain. My parents have a place about 10 miles west of Marbella and it’s lovely to go back to time and time again. My kids always come to meet me at the end of filming my TV shows and we’ve met up in Australia, Japan, South Africa and Los Angeles. We always have an adventure and I retrace my steps with them to explore some of the highlights of my trip. What items do you never travel without on a family holiday? The items have changed over the years. When they are little you end up taking everything, and discover that you could have bought most of it there. But I do
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i remember telling my dad to drive faster on the way to disneyland because i thought the cars overtaking us were going to get there first tourists out there because lots of people think it’s a scary, dangerous place and I want to show them how it’s not those things. We found this tiny little village in Namibia one year, and there was this local artist who would see animals in these gnarled tree stumps so I bought this beautiful elephant. It cost me more to get
it back to England than to buy the thing itself. Do you have a favourite family destination? We love our family skiing holidays and have been going to Les Gets [in the French Alps] for many years. We stay at Hotel Christiania right on the slopes. We ring up all our friends, tell them our dates and we all book it. There can be up to eight families and up to 30 of us on the mountain. It’s great fun. In fact, my top tip for family holidays is to travel with another family with kids of similar ages. The children entertain one another, which gives everyone a break. Any more tips for family holiday success? I’m a great believer in word of mouth when it comes to travel. I would never trust what’s written online. I would rather ask a local or a friend who’s been there. I would actually call the hotel you are thinking of staying in and have a chat. Luckily, I come across lots of great places while filming my shows. Where’s next for you and your family? I haven’t travelled much in South America and I’m keen to take the kids to Mexico, on a road trip off the beaten track. ■ Charley Boorman will be at Destinations: The Holiday & Travel Show in Manchester, from 15 to 18 January. Tickets £8 (destinationsshow.com). You can join him on a 10-day guided motorcycle ride in Australia, from £3,050 per person (charleyboorman.com)
family traveller.com 16/12/2014 10:02
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