haute style
fashion
beauty
colophone Haute Copywright Lily Wimmer 2020 Art Direction: Lily Wimmer Art Contribuition: Ian Dooley Derek Perez Laura Chouette Yunona Uritsky Masha Sidorova Valerie Elash Linh Ha Valeriia Kogan Elijah O’Donnell Oswaldo Ibáñez Alexander Krivitskiy Spike Allibone Clueless Vogue BH Cosmetics Female First Sheeba Magazine Created in Adobe cc Indesign Type Used: Adrianna Condensed La Petite Bebas Neue Matte Velvet Finish Paper Blurb
intro Haute is a couture magazine focused on femine beauty and style. Beauty In this issue we discuss tinted sunglasses, lipstick vs. lip gloss, avant-garde makeup, perfume and the influence on fashion from the iconic 90’s romantic comedy Clueless. Style This issue’s designer spotlights are Yhogi Yamamoto, Tom Ford, Rick Owens, Demna Gvasalin and Raf Simons.
table of contents
1 Intro
2 Colophone
7 Yhogi Yamamoto Spoghtlight
9 Can Tinted Sunglasses Change Your Mood?
10 Classic dillema, lipgloss vs lipstick. Which is better?
11 Tom Ford spotlight
13 5 Mistakes Most Woman Make When Wearing Perfume-and How to Fix Them.
15 Rick Owens Spoghtlight
19 Demna Gvasalin Spoghtlight
21 How to Grow Out Your Nails in Two Weeks or Less.
22 Four Ways to Avant-Garde Your Look
24 Fashion Influences on Film: Clueless
beauty is in the
of
eye
the beholder
I think perfection is ugly. Somewhere in the things humans make, I want to see scars, failure, disorder, distortion.
yohji yamamoto
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Can tinted sunglasses change your mood? by liana satensein, edited by rachel besser
I’m not a sunglasses person. Even in the dead of summer, with sun rays incinerating my retinas, I go bare-eyed. Going sans sunglasses has allowed me to see the world for what it is: Either blindingly bright or cloudy. I’m able to absorb everything, including the overwhelming grayness that sometimes takes over New York City. And the only eyewear that I do wear are monthly contacts that I stretch out until far past their expiration date, and horrifying glasses on my bed stand that no one will ever see besides me. Sunglasses are something that people lose in the back of cabs or get buried in the sand on the beach. Why bother? If I can handle the nasty glare of the sun, they just aren’t necessary. Having said that, if there was to be one quality of sunglasses that might convert me, it would be tinted lenses. Yes, they may have superpowers—as in, they can lift the mood. Case in point: The sunglasses label Loving Victorious Beings by Lars von Bennigsen, which takes the concept
of color therapy—the idea of healing emotions and ailments through colors—and translates this to his lenses. (Full disclosure: I tried out color therapy several years ago, but in clothing form. It worked!) For Von Bennigsen, probably the most zen man I have ever met in person, the concept harkens back to the ancient world. “Color therapy has been recorded as a healing modality since the Egyptian times, but still, until today, very little real research has been conducted,” he says. “We are sort of the next generation of pioneers in this, and I am convinced that these vibrational healing technologies are breaking and will receive ongoing, increasing validation.” While the idea might seem far-fetched, and fairly “out there,” the concept of seeing through literal rose-tinted spectacles has already arrived. Over the past few years, blue-light-filtering sunglasses and contact lenses have been introduced to the market, trickling all the way down
to major retailers like Warby Parker. While they are often clear, these lenses are used to filter out blue light from LED screens, which can disrupt sleep. As for Loving Victorious Beings, Von Bennigsen has introduced several different incarnations of tinted glasses in tones of orange, which removes blue light. A pink version has been described as a “mild psychedelic experience,” that has also been said to uplift the mood. So what happens when a person puts these tinted lenses on? I tried out two versions of Loving Victorious Beings, and yes, the world went into a delicious, happy haze. It’s like my eyes had taken a hit of funky, illegal-in-some-states grass. Smog was lifted. Computer screens weren’t sucking the soul out of my body. The tint caused a citrus-tinged glaze to swim over the eyes, and suddenly the world was not so gloom-and-doom. Will I still lose sunglasses in the back of a cab? Probably. But at least for the time being, things aren’t so gray.
Classic Dilemma, Lip Gloss vs. Lipstick. Which is Better? By BH Jessica
Lip gloss and lipstick are essential products for keeping your pout perfect at all times. Both are fabulous and can do wonders for lips, but which product is the best to use? We have you covered with a comparison of these gems. Lipstick- Lipstick is perfect for adding a pop of color to your face. I recommend wearing lipstick with minimal eye makeup to keep your look balanced. Don’t be afraid to experiment with colors either, it comes in a variety of shades that compliment any skin tone. Lipstick is often more pigmented than gloss and offers deeper color. It is perfect for a polished look at the office or a playful look for girl’s night out.
Lip Gloss- Lip gloss offers a more subtle option in comparison to lipstick. Gloss is a must when balancing bold eye makeup. Looking for plump lips?
Gloss is also the perfect accessory for making your pucker look full as well. Lip gloss comes in a variety of colors and is perfect for finishing off any look with a subtle hue. I recommend sticking with neutrals for every day looks and spicing things up with a bright shade for evenings and weekends.
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tom ford Good manners and good cologne is what transforms the man into a gentleman
Haute 12
5 Mistakes Most Women Perfume—And How Wearing fragrance is easy—a little spritz, and you’re done. But wearing fragrance well requires a little more skill and finesse. For example: Did you know that correct placement depends entirely on both the environment in which it’s worn and the outfit for which it accessorizes? And that tendency you have toward dressing your wrists and then rubbing them together? “Very bad,” says award-winning French-Armenian perfumer Francis Kurkdjian, the nose behind such sophisticated olfactive hits as Christian Dior Eau Noire, Carven Le Parfum, and those from his own eponymous line out of Paris. And, sure, while a bottle of Chanel No. 5 may look like the perfect prop for any chic bathroom vanity, the daily stream of steam from the shower may be curbing its freshness (and, in turn, yours). Fortunately, a few simple tweaks can set you back on the right olfactory course. Here are five common mistakes women make when it comes to buying and wearing perfume—and how to fix them in a flash. Don’t Rub—Just Spray That almost unconscious application habit—misting a little scent on your wrists and then pressing them together before reaching for your neck—is actually “very bad,” says Kurkdjian. Why? The friction created by rubbing, he continues, “heats up the skin, which produces natural enzymes that change the course of the scent.” Most impacted are the top and middle notes, along with the dry-down, or the last and longest period of your fragrance’s unfolding. “With a floral, for example, [heat] warms up everything, ultimately [causing it] to lose its crispness,” he explains. To preserve the integrity of your fragrance (and also ensure it lasts longer on your skin), spritz both wrists lightly, let the liquid sink in, and then do absolutely nothing at all, says Kurkdjian. Environment Is Key When it comes to storage, perfume is almost like a living organism— it’s extremely sensitive to environmental changes. “Perfume doesn’t like going from cold to hot,” Kurkdjian says, adding that such shifts in temperature “set off unexpected chemical reactions within the natural ingredients, and therefore age the perfume faster.” Leaving a citrus scent in the steamy bathroom, for instance, “affects the freshness” and can make a raw material, like patchouli, smell a little off. Ultraviolet rays can also alter a perfume’s color—turning amber tones into green, he warns. “You’d never leave a bottle of Champagne in the sun,” he says. Surprisingly, the best place to store fragrance is the box it originally came in, and at room temperature (or 70 degrees Fahrenheit). If you want to go above and beyond, consider treating it like a great cellar wine: “I know people who store one or two bottles of their signature scents in the refrigerator,” he says.
Make When Wearing to Fix Them The Best Perfumes Come in Small Packages Precious as it is, perfume should be consumed at a brisk pace. Keeping a half-used bottle on your shelf allows oxygen (the “natural enemy of perfume,” says Kurkdjian) to slowly break down the scent’s molecules, altering its composition. Of course, if you mist on your signature scent daily, a large 6.8-milliliter bottle likely won’t go to waste, he says, but in all other instances, Kurkdjian prefers smaller vessels (in the range of 2.4 to 1.2 milliliters) because they can remain fresh for up to three months. And if you’re faced with only one, rather generously sized bottle at the perfume counter? Assuming it has a screw cap or stopper, you can always decant the liquid into smaller vials or tuck your half-empty fragrances in the fridge to maintain their bloom, he says. When in Doubt, Use Your Head (Or Your Hair) A few common-sense rules can carry a smell a long way. “Perfume doesn’t last long on dry skin,” says Kurkdjian, who suggests either a companion body lotion to your fragrance or an unscented moisturizer to prevent any olfactory interference. Where you put perfume matters, too. “Don’t cover it up with your clothing,” he says, and instead target areas exposed to the air: the pulse points of the neck and the wrists or inner elbows, if you’re wearing a sleeveless blouse. The only exception, however, is if you’re in an intensely hot climate—then it’s best to not apply scent directly to your body. “As you sweat, the natural oils of the skin [can] destroy your perfume faster,” he says, while offering the chic alternative of lightly misting your hair, scarf, or sarong. “Because they move with the air, it helps with the diffusion of the scent.” Talk about leaving a lasting impression.
Synthetic Isn’t a Dirty Word “People love the idea of all-natural [perfumes], but it doesn’t always exist,” says Kurkdjian, recalling perhaps the most popular note, musk, which was formerly derived from animals and now brings softness to the scent and enhances its trail. Other smells, such as peony, freesia, and lily of the valley, cannot be obtained by natural extraction simply because they don’t release any aroma whatsoever, he says, forcing them to instead be re-created with a blend of synthetic molecules. And while some of the best perfumers have used a blend of natural and synthetic molecules since the late 19th century, nowadays, chemical creations are tightly controlled and tested for safety by health organizations, including the Research Institute for Fragrance Materials (RIFM) in the U.S. For that reason, Kurkdjian says a blend of essential oils, absolutes, and manmade ingredients ensure the highest-quality scent.
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rick owens
Every jacket I make has interior pockets big enough to store a book and a sandwich and a passport.
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beauty
is pain
demna gvasalia Destruct to create. I think that’s vital.
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How to Grow Out Your Nails in 2 Weeks or Less. By Jenna Rennert
After months of uninterrupted gel manicures or the sudden swing in temperature toward the excessively hot, you might find that your nails are looking less than ideal. The dry office air-conditioning has dehydrated cuticles, slowing growth, and despite attempting to cover them with the season’s brightest shades of neoprene pink and acid orange, chipping is inevitable— evidence that a problem may lie beneath. Luckily, “there is a healthy way to grow out your nails and reverse any previous damage,” says Sarah Gibson Tuttle, the Los Angeles–based founder of Olive & June. Fortunately, sticking to three simple manicure rules can help. “One of the main reasons our nails become damaged is due to improper removal when taking off gel or acrylics,” notes Gibson Tuttle, who recommends a full 15 minutes of acetone soaking to correctly remove color during a polish change. Less time can result in the stripping of enamel, since technicians will often buff or scrape away the residual color. Step two involves committing to a few extra minutes of maintenance each day with a hefty dose of cuticle oil and hand lotion.
“We expect our nails to cooperate, but a weekly manicure simply isn’t enough,” explains Gibson Tuttle. She suggests slathering the entire nail area with a hydrating oil, like CND’s classic SolarOil, three times a day, which, after two weeks of constant application, “will improve the overall texture dramatically.” Those with excessive damage, peeling, or weakness may need true nail detox in the form of a brief break from polish altogether. “[Lacquer] dries out your nails,” explains Gibson Tuttle. “Taking a week or two off will rehab the enamel, promoting healthy growth.” During that time, switch to a growth elixir containing antioxidants or keratin (like OPI’s nail growth treatment) or a strong base coat (like Sally Hansen’s Nail Rehab, which is formulated with an almost invisible sheer pink tint, optical brighteners, and fillers to soften the appearance of ridges in the nail bed). Finally, to keep nails strong in between salon visits and prevent future damage, Gibson Tuttle advises clients to apply a clear topcoat every other day. Here’s to your best manicure yet—now just at your fingertips.
Four Ways to avant-garde your look ann Irvina Ravinther
Sometimes, we want to go a little bit avant-garde on our look but at the same time keeping it minimal for an everyday use. We suggest these styles for yio as they put emphasis on one specific feature. Be it your eyes or lips. One thing is for sure: the attention will be all on you. Ombre Lip Though it may look like you need expert blending skills, The ombre look is pretty simple as long as you outline, shade and blend. It is perfect to bring from day to night time. Start off with a blank lip canvas by moisturizing your lips and applying powder to conceal any redness. When done with these steps, use the liner to fix any imperfections and use then concealer to go over any harsh edges.
Coloured Freckles An ongoing internet trend that we love which you can easily sport. Liquid lipstick works best. With just two shades, a variation of colours can be made. Different sized brushes will give you a number of different sized freckles. You can place the freckles sporadically where the sun would likely hit (like normal freckles) or you could place them wherever you please to highlight. The best part is you can rock any colour you want from reds to blues.
Glitter Cut Crease This eyeshadow look consists of bright colours, glitter and thick lashes. The CUt Crease technique with a contrasting eyeshadow colour will give you that framatic defined crease. The makeup is very angular and does the job! Tip: Use a sticky tape to have a clean line. Prime your eyes and set it so that you will be ready to blend. This gradual build-up of colour is perfect for a night out. Remember to blend on the go to achieve this look!
Glitter Lip This is a look that will get the disco ball on your lips ready to steal the night away. Moisturize your lips then conceal and powder. Next, line your lips and apply lipstick. For the glitter to stick on, use eyelash glue which you can apply with an old brush or clean lip gloss wand. Brush off that excess glitter and you are good to go and dance the night away! Once your night has ended, remone with baby oil or extra virgin olive oil and use your finger to gently peel it off.
Haute 22
raf simons
i’m very attracted to things I can’t define
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Fashion Influences Every once in a while a film comes along, where the fashion is crucial to the storyline. Well, the 1995 hit Clueless was certainly a film that focused on shopping, style and clothes a lot, but was it integral to how successful the film became? Well, in a word- yes. Cher and her best friends Dionne and Tai were fashion pioneers in over-the-knee socks, tartan suits and berets. It made it all the more luxurious to watch on screen, as it showed us these rich girls splashing the cash at the mall every few scenes. In other words-living the dream. It’s not on the same level as say, The Devil Wears Prada, which focused on more designer labels, but teenage girls seemed to identify with Cher and her problems, as well as envying her revolving wardrobe and online outfit chooser. Alicia Silverstone took on the title role of Cher Horowitz and undoubtedly made it her own, inventing the catchphrases ‘Whatever’ and ‘As If!’ which became synonymous with the character. It was also her experimentation with feathers, checked skirts and dolly shoes, which saw her labelled as a fashion icon in the mid-90s. Stacey Dash and the then unknown, Brittany Murphy co-starred and were just as fashion forward as Alicia. Stacey as Dionne managed to make nose rings look cool and championed the look for braided hair and large hats, while Brittany staring as Tai started off as a dowdy fashion reject, but was soon transformed into fashion goddess thanks to Cher and Dionne. Our favourite look on Tai has to be her memorable wine-coloured 60s shift dress, paired with white tights and patent Mary-Janes. Despite the film having being made over 10 years ago, this look is still being replicated today in shows such as Gossip Girl and The Hills. The success of the film was such that it also spawned a spin-off TV series, which was nowhere near as quirky, cool and fashionable as the original. It didn’t have Alicia for a start, and the fashion took a serious nosedive, with loud colours and ludicrous hats that didn’t reflect the feel and style of the original film. The original film featured the tagline ‘Sex. Clothes. Popularity. Whatever.’ and that’s exactly what the film delivered to its primarily teenage audience back then, and is still considered as firm chick flick fashion classic today.
whatever
On Film: Clueless
uhg,as if Haute 26