TECHNICAL MANUAL FASHION BRANDING AND C O M M U N I C AT I O N
GARMENT ENGINEERING BA (HONS) FASHION
L I L LY- RO S E W I L S H I R E
1501579
OVERSIZED L AY E R E D CONTRAST PRINTS M A N LY C U T S STREET STYLE INVENTIVE WITTY P RO P O RT I O N
CITY LIVING bristol//soho STREET STYLE innovator//early adapter
ACTIVIST // 20-25 GRAPHIC DESIGN high earning
INDEPENDENT/UNIQUE FINDS vintage//hood by air//vetements
C R E AT I V E gallery visits//photography//art
SAMPLE JACKET PAT T E R N : C O L L A R & REVERE
W h en i t ca me t o c re a t in g t h e s hel l of the tailor ed j acket – we used a bl ock t h a t we wen t o n t o a lt e r, me a n ing that we have the know l edge of how to pa t t er n cu t t h e ke y e le me n t s in our ow n jackets. Bel ow ar e the patter ns that we wer e g ive n t o s t a r t a s a ba s is for the j acket to then wor k on to cr eate th e fi n a l pa t t er n s fo r t h e s a mple ja c ket.
COLLAR & REVERE DRAFT
A r e qu i r e me n t fo r o u r own ja c kets i s to i ncl ude a collar and r ever e . We c r e a t e d a sa mple pa t t e r n fo r t h e j acket. Her e i s the method to follow and how we a r e t o fo llow o n wh e n c re a t i ng our ow n. • • • •
S t a r tin g wit h t h e f ro n t o f the bl ock tr aced off. Addi ng a button w r ap t o t he C F. Ma r k wh e re t h e top button w i l l be on the jacket – thi s w ill be c o me t h e B RE A K POINT ( the poi nt in w hi ch the r ever e folds over to t h e f ro n t o f ja c ke t ) (2). E xt en d t h e s h o u lde r po in t by 2cm. ( 0-1) D r aw a lin e f ro m (2-1) a n d extend pass the bodi ce fr ont. T his become s the BREAK LINE (the line in which the collar and revere will follow along ove r t h e c e n t re f ro n t o f t he jacket) . M e a su re h a lf o f t h e ba c k -neck measur ement ( 1- 3) .
SAMPLE JACKET
PAT T E R N : C O L L A R & REVERE
• • • • • • • • • •
Dependi ng on how fl at the col l ar i s m ean t to l i e on th e sh ou l d er s – for more of a flatter this length would have to be higher. For the sample , we used 2.5cm ( 3-4) . Dr aw a dotted line connecti n g ( 4 - 1 ) . Wher e the dotted line is ( 5 & 6 ) w i l l b e r i gh t an gl es. ( 4-5) is a 2.5cm stand. ( 4-6) is a fal l of 5cm ( chang es d ep en d i n g on styl e) . O nto the bodi ce of the patt er n sketch ou t th e ST Y LE LI N E S ( h ow you w ant the collar and r ever e to l ook) . F ol d th e p ap er al on g th e b r eak l i n e and tr ace the styl e lines ont o th e oth er si d e of CF. Bl end ( 6) to the outer edge of th e col l ar ( f r om styl e l i n es) m aki n g su r e i t i s at a r i ght angle . Wher e the r ever e meets the b r eak l i n e w i l l b e ( 8 ) . 2cm fr om ( 8) w i l l be ( 7) . Bl endi ng ( 5,7&8) to cr eate a com p l eted n eckl i n e .
SAMPLE JACKET PAT T E R N : V E N T S / FACING/POCKETS
VENTS
A l t h ou g h a ve n t wa s in c lu de d o n the bl ock we used to cr eate our sampl e j a c ket , t r a d it io n a lly a ve n t wo u ld be cr eated and added to a bl ock patter n r a t h er t h a n c o me a lre a dy o n it . This i s because vent can be var yi ng w idths an d h ei g h t s d e pe n din g o n a de s ig n .
FACING
We c r e a t e d t h e f a c in g by dr awing 7cm fr om the neck shoulder point and 7cm f r om t h e bu t t o n wr a p in t o t h e hem. T hen connect the two poi nts to cr eate th e f a c i n g l i n e . Tr a c in g o f f t h e f a c in g w ill i ncl ude the added 7cm and the r ever e sh a p e .
INTERFACING
Th e pi ec e s t h a t we h a d t o in t e rf ace wer e; the w hole of the fr ont( s) , top coll ar, 5 cm + 2 cm h e m o f t h e (le f t & r ight) back, ( top & under ) sl eeve and vents i n bo t h t h e ba c k a n d t h e s le e ve s .
POCKETS
JE T(1 ) – two s e pa r a t e fo lds o f fabr i c w i th an opening. Pocket bag attachi ng on t h e i n si de o f t h e f a br ic fo lds . JE T W / FL A P ( 2 ) – t h e s a me a s a jet pocket however a flap i s inser ted be h i n d a n d s a n dwic h e d be t we e n the ini tial jet fol d and the pocket back. W E LT(3 ) – t h e we lt po c ke t do es not use two separ ate fol ds l i ke the jet, it u se s a r e c t a n g le o f f a br ic t h a t fold up and i s top sti tched to hide the pocket o pe n i n g w h ic h e n c a s e s t h e po c ket bag.
(1) (2) (3)
SAMPLE JACKET PAT T E R N : L I N I N G
BACK
CUT 1 PAIR
TOP SLEEVE CUT 1 PAIR
FRONT
CUT 1 PAIR
UNDER SLEEVE
CUT 1 PAIR
LINING
• FRO N T – using the same fr on t p i ece as th e sh el l of th e j acket. However, star t fr om the point of t h e f aci n g l i n e . R ai se th e ar m h ol e by 1 cm and cur ve i t off i nto the or i ginal seam l i n e . • B ACK – again using the same back piece as the shell of the jacket. Raise the ar mhole by 1cm the same as the front. At the CB add 2cm out at the neck l i ne and cur ve off into th e or i gi n al seam l i n e at th e w ai st. T h i s w i l l allow for a pleat i n w hich m ovem en t w i l l b e ad d ed i n th e l i n i n g. • TO P S L EEV E – the same p r i n ci p l e as th e sh el l , r ai si n g th e L si d e by 1cm and cur ve off. As ther e i s a l ot of ease i n th e sh el l bl ock, a d ar t can be made at the top of sl eeve h ead to get r i d of th e excess f ab r i c . • U N DER S L EEV E – again r ai se th e w h ol e th e h ead of th e sl eeve by 1cm at the centr e notch and cu r ve of f to th e l ef t an d r i gh t seam s. • FOR ALL – the hemline of the lining pieces is to the or iginal block hem ( minus 5cm) plus a 1cm seam al l ow an ce . 1 cm seam al l ow an ce w i l l go ar ound the patter ns.
SAMPLE JACKET A S S E M B LY
FABRIC CUTTING/MARKING UP
• After creating the most economical lay plan for the patterns, it is time to cut them out. However, as we used wool composition for out sample jacket it, it is important to iron (with steam) the fabric to ensure that if there were to be any shrinking it would happen before the fabric has been cut out. • Like any cutting of pattern pieces, ensure that all the patterns lay on the correct grainline (especially under collar). • Also make sure that the patterns will be cut on the correct side – this applies when cutting the lining as there is a dull side and a sheen to the reverse. The side with a sheen is what we want to be visible when the jacket is opened. • Interface all the pattern pieces, that require interfacing. • Like all patterns ensure all notches are marked – collar and revere notches are very important in the as sembly process. • The under collar and front pattern pieces require a series of lines that cross over to mark the area that the collar needs to meet the front pattern piece. They are drawn 1cm in from the edge of the pattern and cross over at the ends of the collar. This will then be stay stitched on both the collar and the front to add stability when snipped in.
POCKETS
• • • • •
Pockets are the first step of constructing the jacket. After the welt, jet and jet with flat lines have been copied from the pattern to the interfacing of the front pattern, they can be stay stitched over to ensure there is stability when they are turned through. JE T - Sew the separate folds of fabric onto the top and bottom line matching them up. Snip the middle line and the triangle at the end. Fold the flaps into the cut in the fabric, ensuring that the ends are tucked in and do not overlap one another. Sew the big pocket bag to the top folded jet at 1cm and the smaller pocket bag to the lower folded jet. Sew the two pocket bags together, ensuring that when stitching the bag down it also catches the long edge of the folded triangle. JET w/ FLAP – the same principle as above. Before sewing the pocket bag onto the jet folds, place the bagged-out flap along the top line and stitch along the drawn-out line. Turn in the right way like the above jet. Then stitch the pocket bag in. W E LT - sew the rectangle of fabric along the bottom line that was drawn onto the interfacing. Sew the top pocket bag into top line and then go onto sew the bottom pocket bag and sew them together like the other 2 pocket samples. Fold the welt over to the front and top stitch down at either end.
SAMPLE JACKET A S S E M B LY
MAIN SHELL
• Sew the Centre Back (CB) seam, shoulder seam and side seam together. • Press all seams open – these do not need to be overlocked as they will be sandwiched within the lining layer.
COLLAR • • • • • •
Stitch together the under collar along the CB. Press open seams. Stay stitch over the marked-out points at the end of the collar. Ensuring to pivot the foot and meeting the corner point exactly. Also stay stitch the marked point on the front pattern ready to match the above point to. Matching the notches stitch the under collar onto the jacket around the neck. Do not stitch the first and last 1cm of this stitch line as ready to bag out the lining. Press all the seams open – this will be helpful when sewing the lining in.
S L E E V E S / S H O U D L E R R O L L / S H O U L D E R PA D / V E N T • • • • • • • •
Sew the top sleeve to the undersleeve – making sure the notches all match up. Pressing these seams open now is best after this stage. Insert the sleeve into the armhole, as there is a lot of ease match up the notches and then multiple points within to evenly distribute. Steam the head of the sleeve with the seams towards to sleeve. This is best achieved on the sleeve iron arm at the curved end. Cut approx. 20cm worth of shoulder roll – sitting along the armhole from the front to back notch. Stitch along the SA of the armhole and sleeve head and sew just within. Place the flat edge of the shoulder pad along the sleeve edge, fold the shoulder pad along the notch in the centre. Pin along and place on the mannequin to see where the shoulder pad works the best for the jacket and then hand stitch the middle, front and back into the seam allowance. For the vent in the sleeve iron the back over the front, also iron the 5cm hem up. Where the ironed vent and hem meet unfold and mark either side of where they intersect. Sew a 45 stitched across the two marked points. Turn the triangle shape that has been sewn and fold into a square. Turn in on itself and that creates a mitered cover. On top of where the vents are on the top vent sew a series of buttons, as this will be a fake vent it doesn’t matter how many buttons as it will not be fastening up. Placing the button 2cm away from the edge and have a 2cm spacing between each.
SAMPLE JACKET A S S E M B LY
MAIN SHELL •
Press up the 5cm hem of the main body and the sleeves.
LINING
• Sew the front facing to the front lining. Press the seam towards the lining. Top stitch onto the facing. • Stitch the CB down and then stitch the 2cm pleat towards the left. This will allow for movement in the back of the jacket. • Sew the shoulder and side seams together. Pressing open. • With wrong sides together stitch the top collar onto the lining/facing. • Sew together to top and under sleeve - pressing open the seams. • Sew the sleeves into the lining/facing – there will be a lot of ease within the sleeve head into the armhole therefore there may be a few tucks within the lining however this will not be overly visible once sewn into the outer shell. Press the seams towards the sleeve. • Leave a 15cm hole within the left sleeve to be able to pull the garment through with the lining.
SHELL
• With right sides together sew the top collar and under collar together ensuring to match the corner points after they have been reinforced. Ensuring to place needle into the corner point and pivot. • Sew from hem to hem with the facing/lining. • Turn through and push the corners of the collar and snip access if needed. • Push the corners of the rever out and snip if needed. • Press the collar with the right side on the top pressing it away so that you can only see it on the underside. • Press the rever down to the breakpoint of the jacket. Make sure that the seam is towards the body of the jacket.
SAMPLE JACKET A S S E M B LY
HEM • • • •
With ride sides together. The facing reaches the end of the jacket including the 5cm hem, sew at an angle from 6cm up at the edge of the jacket down towards the fold of the 5cm hem. Do this either side of the hem from the facing stopping at the side seam. Sew the mitered corner of the jacket trapping the lining in. Folding the none mitered corner and sewing the corner at an angle to ensure the lining does not fall below the hem. Turn the whole jacket through hole in the arm hole. Press the hem neatly with a 1-2cm overhang of the lining not going below the jacket edge.
LINING SLEEVES • • •
Placing your arm into the sleeve with the lining ensure that the seams run along each other and do not twist, place a pin and turn the sleeve back through. Stitch the sleeve sewing from one side of the vent to the middle and then again on the opposite side. Pull through the arm hole and place arm in to ensure that the lining has not twisted.
PRESSING • •
Minimal pressing at the final stage as this should be happening along the way. Place the garment onto a mannequin and steam and unwanted creases or to ensure that bagging out of the shell and the lining sit right.
SAMPLE JACKET SPEC SHEET
Name LILLY-ROSE WILSHIRE
SIZE
SPECIFICATION
Wash Care Instructions Hand Wash
Date JANUARY 2018
Project FASHION BRANDING AND COMMUNICATION Block ref. / GARMENT ENGINEERING Fabric composition OUTER - 80% WOOL 20% POLYESTER LINING - 100% ACETATE POLYESTER
Dry Flat
N G
P
E
H M
I
B
J
A C K
D L O
F
Comments
Signed Technologist
SAMPLE JACKET L AY P L A N
FABRIC 1 80% WOOL 20% POLYESTER WIDTH (CM) 150CM LENGTH (CM) 200CM SINGLE/FOLDED LAY
FABRIC 2 LINING 100% ACRYLIC WIDTH (CM) 100CM LENGTH (CM) 150CM SINGLE/FOLDED LAY
FABRIC 2 INTERFACING
LAYPLAN NAME: LILLY-ROSE WILSHIRE
DATE: FEB 2018
PROJECT TITLE: FBC - GARMENT ENGINEERING GARMENT TYPE: SAMPLE TAILORED JACKET
WIDTH (CM) 100CM LENGTH (CM) 100CM SINGLE LAY
JUMPSUIT TO I L E 1
Add 2.5cm both sides of the top and both sides of the trouser legs. As I want an oversized jumpsuit it needs to start big so that it can be gathered in at the waist.
Armhole tight however fits - open up by 4cm.
Drop neck line as it is too high up and would not sit comfortably with an added turtle neck collar.
JUMPSUIT Fastening in the CB at the join of the top to trousers.
TO I L E 1
Top was too short in the back (did not match with the front) therefore would not meet the top of the trousers to sew in. Add 5cm at hem of back top.
Drop the crotch - too tight making it hard to get the top half over the shoulders (uncomfortable when modelled). Drop by 8cm as an experiment to see how they work when worn.
Waistband will add 5cm of length into the jumpsuit therefore I do not want to extend the top and trousers in length before I see how the proportions will work with the elastic.
JUMPSUIT TO I L E 2
5.5.CM added into the CF & CB to match the width of the extended trousers to give the overall effect of oversized. I was expecting this to happen as I want to see how wide I could take the jumpsuit to then bring it back in witht the elastic.
Adding a jet pocket into the front thigh - move up higher to sit onto the thigh.
Waistband too small to fit around the whole of the trousers. Added 10cm in length. Add 1.5cm width to the waistband as the elastic is pushing against the seams and was twisting alot with the lack of movement.
Vents into the side seam to be able to tighten around the leg in the style of motorcycle trousers.
Na me
1ST Fit Report
Date 06/02/2018
LILLY-ROSE WILSHIRE Project
Block/Ref/Size
FASHION BRANDING & COMMUNICATION /GARMENT ENGINEERING
Size
Model
GEORGIA
12
Fabric
Description
CALICO
OVERSIZED JUMPSUIT WITH ELASTICATED WAISTBAND
Fit Amendments
REMOVE HIGH COLLAR AND CREATE A JERSEY TURTLE NECK TO GO UNDERNEATH AND RECREATE
MAKE WAISTBAND WIDER FOR THE ELASTIC ENSURING IT DOES NOT TWIST
MAKE THE BUTTONS INTO POPPERS AND MOVE THE VENT TO THE BACK OF THE LEG
Construction
Comments
-ENSURE TO TAKE INTO CONSIDERATION THE PINTUCKS INTO THE PANEL SO WILL HAVE TO ADD IN EXTRA SO THE PANEL DOES NOT GET INFECTED. -REMOVE SIDE SEAM WITHIN THE PANEL AT AN ANGLE. CREATE THAT AS ONE PANEL FRON FRONT TO THE BACK. -GET RID OF THE PINTUCKS INTO THE SHOULDER AS WOULD MAKE IT UNCOMFORTABLE.
Pass
Go ahead for Trial
Pass
Send Sealing Samples
Fail
Send second fit sample
Signed Technologist
JUMPSUIT
TO I L E 2 - 1 S T F I T REVIEW
JUMPSUIT TO I L E 3
Adding the pintucks into the panels meant that I had to create a sample to see how much fabric is taken away with every pintuck - working out that each pintuck would take away 0.4cm of the fabric. E.g. 12 pintucks would mean I had to add 4.8cm onto the pattern piece.
Initally wanting pintucks in panels on the sleeve it then meant that their would be a panel of pintucks going into the sleeve head and this would be uncomfortable for the wearer.
Waistband still didn’t seam to give the elastic enough space to be fed though and then to settle and lay nicely therefore making the pattern piece 6.5cm plus SA.
Zip at the back needs to have a wider facing that extends around to the front as it can be seen poking out from the front when laying flat.
Na me
2ND Fit Report
Date 06/02/2018
LILLY-ROSE WILSHIRE Project
Block/Ref/Size
FASHION BRANDING & COMMUNICATION /GARMENT ENGINEERING
Size
Model
GEORGIA
12
Fabric
Description
CALICO
OVERSIZED JUMPSUIT WITH ELASTICATED WASITBAND
Fit Amendments 12CM PANEL OF NO ELASTIC AT THE FRONT OF WAISTBAND
MOVE ZIP TO THE FRONT OF THE JUMPSUIT BODICE 4CM IN FROM NECK SHOULDER
REMOVE JET POCKETS ADD POCKETS INTO THE SIDE SEAM
Construction
Comments
REMOVE VENT FROM THE BACK OF THE JUMPSUIT
-PLACKET TYPE FACING BEHIND ZIP IN THE FRONT OF THE JUMPSUIT (PROTECT THE BODY). -PANEL IN THE FRONT OF THE WAISTBAND TO START AT THE FINISHING OF THE ZIP. -SEW FACING ON THE INSIDE RATHER THAN TOP STITCHING THROUGH TO THE FRONT OF THE NECK.
Pass
Go ahead for Trial
Pass
Send Sealing Samples
Fail
Send second fit sample
Signed Technologist
JUMPSUIT
TO I L E 3 - 2 N D F I T REVIEW
JUMPSUIT TO I L E 4
Facing needs to be extended at the zip ending in the front by 4cm to ensure that it is covering the top of the zip. Also extend the facing downwards so it is not visable when laying flat. Extended from 6CM to 10CM.
Panel in the front of the waistband works better than the elastic all the way around as it gives a break. Ensure that the Left hand seam matches with the end of the zip.
Removing the vent in the back of the trouser means that the hem matches up and the hem is easier to sew to get a neat finish.
As the zip has been moved to the front of the garment a facing is needed to protect the wearers skin however it needs to have a placket ‘fly guard’ which lays behind the zip and face across to the other side fo the zip.
Make sure that the pintucks match up either side when the sleeve is sewn up - it is easier to sew downwards in the direction that the pintucks have been ironed to.
JUMPSUIT TO I L E 4
Pockets into the side seams of the trousers for the final garment I will have to remeber to sew the short edges together rather than the long edges.
Topstitching around the pocket and waistband needs to perfect as it is functional and for aesthetic.
JUMPSUIT A S S E M B LY
CUTTING • •
As there are two fabrics to be used for the jumpsuit ensure that the correct pattern pieces are to be cut out of the correct fabric. (As labelled on the patterns). For panels with pin tucks draw lines across matching the notches from either side. This will ensure that pin tucks are straight.
PIN TUCKS • • •
After the lines have been drawn onto the pattern piece using tailors chalk, fold and edge stitch along the drawn line. Continue this onto the 2 left, 1 right sleeve, knee panel. Iron the pin tucks downwards to finish.
SLEEVE • • • • •
Stitch the panelled sleeves together. Left labelled (1,2,3,4) and Right Labelled (5,6,7). Overlock raw edges and press towards hem. Sew inside arm seam at 1cm. Overlock and press to the back of the arm. Hem of 2cm. Fold 1cm – iron. Fold another 1cm – iron. Stitch at 0.8cm from the edge of the fold.
TOP • • • • • •
Sew the zip into the front panel. Attach the zip facing behind the right side of the zip. Top stitch the zip down onto the front. Shoulder and side seams together. Overlock. Press to the back. Sew the front and back facing together. Overlock. Press towards the hem. Sew the sleeves into the armhole. Overlock the two seam together. Press hem towards the sleeve.
JUMPSUIT A S S E M B LY
TROUSERS • • • • • • •
Sew pin tuck panel into the left leg panels. Labelled (1,2,3). Overlock the 2 seams. Press towards the hem. Sew the CF crotch together. Sew the CB crotch together. Overlock. Press towards left. Sew the side panel to the front (right sides together). Overlock the seam, press towards the back. Top stitch onto the trouser fronts. Leave a gap at the top where the pocket flat leaves the panel. Sew the pocket bag onto the fold, turn into the trouser front. Stitch the two bags together and overlock. Edge stitch the pocket down. On the front of the trousers. Repeat process for the back. Top stitch onto the trouser backs. Turn the trousers so that the right sides are together and stitch together the inside leg seam. Hem the trousers with the same principle as the sleeves of the top.
WAISTB AND • • • • • • •
Sew together the 12cm panel into the front of the waistband onto 2 waistbands. Overlock and press the side seam. Sandwich 1 waistband between the top and another waistband – 1 on inside and 1 on the outside. Ensure that the left side of the front panel matches up with zip ending. Sew the top and waistband onto the trousers. Sew the inside waistband onto the inside of the trousers. Fold over the edge of the waistband and iron in place. Edge stitch down. Leaving a gap in the back of the waistband. Half the width of the waistband for the length of elastic. Place a safety pin at one end of the elastic as it is pushed into the waistband. Stitch the gap left to feed the elastic through down to ensure that the elastic does not move around.
JUMPSUIT
SPEC SHEET
SIZE
SPECIFICATION
Name LILLY-ROSE WILSHIRE
Date JANUARY 2018
Project FASHION BRANDING AND COMMUNICATION GARMENT ENGINEERING
Block ref.
Fabric composition MAIN: POLYCOTTON SUITING
Wash Care Instructions Hand Wash
PANEL: POLYESTER
Dry Flat
L
B
C
F D
G
J
I
H K A
Comments
E
Signed Technologist
JUMPSUIT
COSTING SHEET
COSTING
NAME: LILLY-ROSE WILSHIRE PROJECT: FASHION BRANDING & COMMUNICATION - GARMENT ENGINEERING DATE: FEBRUARY 2018 GARMENT TYPE: JUMPSUIT
ATTACH ALL FABRIC & LINING SWATCHES
INTERFACING
WIDTH
QUANTITY COST PER METRE
150CM
2
150CM
1
£12
£12
N/A
N/A
N/A
N/A
£2.50
£2.50 £4.50
THREADS
£12
TOTAL COST £24
ZIPS
N/A
1
£4.50
BUTTONS
N/A
N/A
N/A
N/A
OTHER TRIMMINGS
N/A
N/A
N/A
N/A
TOTAL MATERIAL COST
£43.00
JERSEY TOP TO I L E 1
I w an t ed t h e t u r tle n e c k t o b e a b l e to e xte nd u p a n d ove r th e mo u t h a s I wa s to l d t o re m ove th e c o l l a r o f my j u m p sui t. T hi s si m p ly a dds an oth e r c o m p o n ent to th e o u t f i t a s a w h ol e w h en wo r n.
C oversti tch a lo ng the bo dice and sleeve hem.
Rat h er t h an h av in g t h e s eam at t h e C B of t h e n ec klin e m ove t oward t h e lef t s h ou ld er s eam ( 4 c m away ) .
M ake s u re t h at t h e n ec klin e s it s 2 c m in f rom t h e n ec klin e of t h e ju m p s u it . Th is en s u res t h at t h ere is n t t oo mu c h b u lk s it t in g in on e p lac e .
JERSEY TOP A S S E M B LY
CUTTING • •
As cutting jersey has some movement ensure to pin the patterns thoroughly following the grainline. Ensure that patterns are followed as the only pattern required twice is the sleeves.
TURTLE NECK • •
Fold the pattern piece in half along the short edge. Overlock this edge. Fold the overlocked short edge over making the pattern piece half in size – ready to be sewn into the neckline.
BODICE/SLEEVE • • • •
Right sides together overlock the side seam and shoulder seams. Overlock the side seam of the sleeve. Match notches of the sleeve head into the armhole – overlock together. Overlock turtle neck collar into neckline ensuring that the CB seam sits 4/5cm away from the left shoulder seam.
COVERSTITCH •
Using the cover stitch machine to finish the hem of the sleeves and hem of the bodice. Iron up the hem 2cm all around the hemline and follow the edge folded up.
JERSEY TOP SPEC SHEET
SIZE
SPECIFICATION
Name LILLY-ROSE WILSHIRE
Date JANUARY 2018
Project FASHION BRANDING AND COMMUNICATION GARMENT ENGINEERING
Block ref.
Fabric composition COTTON JERSEY
Wash Care Instructions Hand Wash
Dry Flat
Machine Wash COLD
Do Not Dry Clean
G
B
C A
H D
E
F
Comments
Signed Technologist
JERSEY TOP
COSTING SHEET
COSTING
NAME: LILLY-ROSE WILSHIRE PROJECT: FASHION BRANDING & COMMUNICATION - GARMENT ENGINEERING DATE: FEBRUARY 2018 GARMENT TYPE: JERSEY TURTLE NECK
ATTACH ALL FABRIC & LINING SWATCHES
WIDTH 150CM
QUANTITY COST PER METRE 1 METRE
TOTAL COST
£5
£5
INTERFACING
N/A
N/A
N/A
N/A
THREADS
N/A
N/A
N/A
N/A
ZIPS
N/A
N/A
N/A
N/A
BUTTONS
N/A
N/A
N/A
N/A
OTHER TRIMMINGS
N/A
N/A
N/A
N/A
TOTAL MATERIAL COST
£5.00
JACKET TO I L E 1
There is too much fabric at the underarm of the jacket which is restricting when moving the arm up and down.
This being the first time sewing my own collar into the revere I need to be much more aware of the notches matching. As when I stitched I missed the corner point meaning they did not match up and puckered around the point.
The overall effect of the jacket is to be oversied however the back has lots of fabric that doesn’t do anything meaning it is simply a waste of fabric. Some shaping is desired for a more appealing fit.
Shoulder of jacket has been dropped however it is more curved then straight and does not sit on the shoulder it lays in a forward angle.
Jacket needs to be taken up so it has more of a cropped hemline to work with the jumpsuit as an outfit. REMEMBER - 5cm hem needs to be added for the lining.
Points of the collar sit more at the back of the jacket rather than on the front therefore I need to check what measurement I used for the CB when creating the collar and revere.
JACKET TO I L E 1
JACKET
TO I L E 1 - 1 S T F I T REVIEW
Move the break point lower down extending the revere also for proportion.
Initally I wanted to have jets on my jacket however a sideways welt would work better for the jacket as it is so oversized it would gape open with the natural way it lays .
Although I had extended the shoulder length I did not change the sleeve head. As you extend the shoulder you smooth off the sleeve head by how much you have added in the shoulder seam. As this toiles sleeve head was more pointed at the armhole.
Once I have removed the excess fabric at the side seams - I need to drop the arm hole this is because the shoulder seam has been dropped and has moved the sleeve head further down the arm.
Na me
1ST Fit Report
Date 06/02/2018
LILLY-ROSE WILSHIRE
Block/Ref/Size
Project
FASHION BRANDING & COMMUNICATION /GARMENT ENGINEERING
Size
Model
GEORGIA
12
Fabric
Description
CALICO
OVERSIZED JACKET WITH DROPPED SLEEVES
Fit Amendments
FOCUS ON GETTING THE SHAPE AT THE SHOULDERS OF THE JACKET
CURVE AT THE SOUDLERS?
PLACEMENTS OF POCKETS ARE NOT PRACTICAL
TAKE VENTS FROM THE SIDE AND PUT THEM IN THE SLEEVES
REMOVE PINTUCKS FROM SLEEVE WOULD NOT WORK ON WOOL Construction Comments
REMOVE PANEL AT THE BOTTOM AS IT DOESNT ADD ANYTHING
-REMOVE ALOT OF VOLUME ALL OVER THE JACKET AS IT IS TOO BIG. -DROPPED SHOULDER NEEDS TO BE WORKED ON E.G. SKIMMING OFF THE TOP OF THE SLEEVE HEAD AND DROP THE ARMHOLE MORE. -CHECK THAT THE HEM OF THE JACKET DOES NOT SWING FORWARD.
Pass
Go ahead for Trial
Pass
Send Sealing Samples
Fail
Send second fit sample
Signed Technologist
JACKET
TO I L E 1 - 1 S T F I T REVIEW
JACKET TO I L E 2
Bringing revere to a lower break point helps the proportion of the collar and revere to the size of the jacket. Adding to the biker effect that has been taken from inspiration.
Armhole dropped and excess fabric removed from the side seam has made the sleeve sit better on the body.
Ensuring to mark the corner points on the collar and revere made it easier to match up when sewing. Also walking through my patterns to make sure that the notches were in the correct place made for more precise sewing.
JACKET TO I L E 2 Ensure that the seams that have been added in to remove excess fabric match at the shoudler seam. Adding in seams meant that excess fabric could be taken away but the shape would remain the same and most importantly not effect the shoulder length as that took multiple attempts to achieve. I reworked my collar so that the collar no longer sits at the back of the jacket as it gave more of a sailor look to the garment and this was far from what I was trying to achieve. I am much happier with the way that the collar and revere looks now as it reflects my illustration in a way that I was hoping for.
JACKET
TO I L E 3 - 2 N D F I T REVIEW
Pressing the hem up at 5CM gave the overall effect of the length that the jacket would be and I am glad that I got to see how it worked with the other two items and I feel that the lengths all work well with each other.
By adding the facing to this toile I was able to see how the collar and revere work together - I need to be more aware of the corner points between the collar and revere ensuring that I snip into them to make sure they become flush and can be steamed flat.
Although I had created some samples of varying welt pockets that I could have used for my jacket jody suggest to use the traditonal rectangle shape and place at an angle inline with the seams. Because of this I still need to work on the placement of the pockets as the revere may interfere.
Na me
2ND Fit Report
Date 06/02/2018
LILLY-ROSE WILSHIRE Project
Block/Ref/Size
FASHION BRANDING & COMMUNICATION /GARMENT ENGINEERING
Size
Model
GEORGIA
12
Fabric
Description
CALICO
OVERSIZED DROPPED SHOULDER JACKET WITH PANELS
Fit Amendments GET RID OF THE ANGLE AT THE BOTTOM OF THE WELT POCKET MAKE THE POCKET WIDER
NO FRONT FASTENING ADD 4CM MORE TO THE FACING
REMOVE VENT FROM THE SLEEVE AS IT WAS NOT SITTING IN THE RIGHT PLACE (INNER ARM NOT OUTER ARM)
Construction
ADD VENT INTO THE MIDDLE PANEL OF THE JACKET ON BOTH SIDES AND CREATE A TAB TO PULL ACROSS TO THE SIDE SEAM AND FRONT PANEL WITH A BUTTON.
Comments
- ENSURE THAT THE PANELS FROMT HE FRONT TO THE BACK MATCH AT THE SHOULDER. -FOR THE FINAL GARMENT TOP STITCH EITHER SIDE OF THE SEAMS (F&B). -MAKE SURE THAT I MATCH THE POINTS OF COLLAR AND REVERE EXACT WHEN SEWING AND SNIP IN. -UNDER SLEEVE SEAM AND SIDE SEAM NEED TO MATCH WHEN BEING SEWN TOGETHER. -HEM IS 5CM ALL THE WAY AROUND THE GARMENT.
Pass
Go ahead for Trial
Pass
Send Sealing Samples
Fail
Send second fit sample
Signed Technologist
JACKET
TO I L E 3 - 2 N D F I T REVIEW
JACKET TO I L E 4
For my final jacket I decided that I would experiment with 2 different placements for the button tabs - I tried one closer to the top of the vent and the other sandwiched within the mitered corner. I prefer the mitered corner tab as it gives a more professional finish.
I have made the seam in the front become more curved at the hemline as I feel this gives a more brought in effect to the jacket even though it is oversized.
Like the tabs I also tried two sizes in rectangles for the welt - I decided that I would go for the bigger size as it works better with the overall sizing of the jacket. I have to be aware of the seam at this point and theoverlapping of the revere onto the front of the jacket.
JACKET TO I L E 4
I wanted to mae sure that I sewed a lining into my final toile as I felt uncertain about only sewing my sample jacket and then my final garment. But the process was straightforward. I came across one problem and that was at the vent this was due to my cutting of the shell as I was short of calico.
I need to rember that the lining in the middle panel has to hang down as I pressed this to the hemline for my final toile - this is hard to unpress once sewn together.
JACKET
A S S E M B LY
CUTTING - SHELL / LINING • • • • •
All but top collar and CB panel to be cut on the fold – with vent tabs and welt pockets to be cut 4x. Remember to cut the under-collar on the correct grainline. Ensure that all notches are marked on. Interfacing pieces need to be on the front 2 panels, facing, hem of the back-side panels, back middle panel and sleeve, vents, 2x welts, 2x tabs and top collar. Once interfaced – draw on markers for welt pockets.
SHELL • • • • • • • • • • • •
Sew together the welt pockets and bag out leaving one long edge open. Ensure to snip and push corners through to ensure they are the perfect corner point. Sew together and bag out the tabs for the vents. Add a button hole to the end of the tab. Start by stitching over the marked-out pocket placement – including the middle line and triangles. Stitch the welt pocket with raw edge facing inwards to the square following the outer edge closest to the side seam. Snip through the centre line and push through. Add pocket bag onto either side of the welt. Sew pocket bag together and overlock ensuring that the triangle has been trapped in. Top stitch the welt downat the sides. Repeat on both sides. Sew front to front side panel. Sew back panel to centre back panel, up until the vents. Press to the side. Sew shoulder seams together. Top stitch from back panels over to the front panels. On the inside of the seam – towards CB and CF. Sew collar on ensuring that all the notches have met. Snip at the CF notch point to ensure that when ironed open it will lay flat against the corresponding seam. With the garment lying flat the sleeve can be sewn in open as there is no ease in the sleeve. Right sides of the garment together sew from the sleeve hem to the bodice hem. Buttons added to the side seam and front panel on both sides. Sew mitered corned on the top piece of the vent. Sew tab into the mitered corner. Iron the hem up 5cm of the front, back and sleeves. Also iron the revere down to the break point.
JACKET
A S S E M B LY
LINING • • • • • • • • •
Sew facing onto the front lining. Press seam open and topstitch onto the lining. Facing and front sewn to the front side panel. Sew the back-side panels to the centre back. Until the 2nd notch down for the vent. Stitch 1cm in on the back panel over to the side back for 6cm down to create the pleat for movement this is on both sides. Sew the front to back on the shoulder seam and side seam. Sew sleeve together leaving a gap in the left-hand sleeve big enough to pull the whole garment through – this needs to be larger than the sample jacket gap as the jacket is bigger and heavier. Sew sleeves into the lining. There will be some ease but it should not be too much. Press all seams open. Sew top collar onto the facing. Matching the notch points up.
S H E L L & L I N I N G TO G E T H E R • • • • • • • •
With both sewn together pieces right side together, sew from the hem of the facing around the two collars and down to the end of the hem sewing both together at 1cm. Still right sides together sew from the facing (at about 5CM) down to 1CM seam allowance at an angle down – to the first panel. Repeat on the other side. Sew around the vents – there will be access fabric that will be made into a pleat at the vent for movement. Turn garment through and to sew the CB panel lining in sew through the armhole to ensure that the stitching is not visible on the outside of the jacket. Turn the jacket through the whole in the arm and place arm into the sleeve and line the seams up so that the lining is not twisted and pin at the 5CM hem. Turn back in on itself and pin around the whole cuff and stitch at 1CM. Repeat for the other sleeve. Top stitch the gap in the sleeve to close it up.
Steam the whole garment but do not press.