SALEHA BAGAS AND THE MODEST FASHION REVOLUTION L I L L Y- R O S E W I L S H I R E
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M odest y ; f ree f ro m o sten tatio n o r sh owy e x t r av a g a n c e (1 ). D e fi n i n g f a s h i o n as fr ee f ro m o sten tatio n is so m e t h i n g f a r f ro m wh a t we e x pe r i e n c e t h ro u g h the multitu de o f platfo r ms th at f a s h i o n a t t a i n s , h owe ve r t o t h e n e w wave of m ode st dresser s th eir ability t o st ay i n l i n e wi t h Is l a m i c pr i n c i pl e s do e s not l i m it th eir po ten tial to mee t f a sh i o n t re n ds m a k i n g m o de st dre s s i n g a uni que lifesty le th at f ash io n mo g u l s c a n e n g a g e wi t h n o m a t t e r t h e i r re l i g i o u s bel i efs. Lo o kin g in to h ow mo d e st f a s h i o n h a s s e e n h i s t o r i c a l c h a n g e , t o t h e new up an d c o min g design er Sa l e h a Ba g a s c h a n g i n g t h e way we v i e w m o de st dr essi ng an d even lo o kin g in to h ow t h e bi g t i m e f a sh i o n br a n ds h ave se e n t h e gap i n t h e mar ket as o n e o f f ash i o n s f a s t e s t g rowi n g se c t o r s a s t h e wo r l ds popul at io n will so ar to 29% b ein g o f Mu sl i m f a i t h by 2 0 3 0 (2 ). As the v alu es o f wester n so c iet y h ave se e m i n g ly di m i n i sh e d i n t e r m s o f m odesty sin c e th e tu r n o f th e ce n t u r y, i t h a s be c o m e a n o r m wi t h i n f a sh i o n to see mo d els ado r n ed in n ext t o n o t h i n g a c ro ss a l l o f pl a t fo r m s o f m e di a , r eachi ng millio n s an d c o n str u c t i n g a n a c c e pt a bl e st a n da rd o f dre ss . T h e al ter native f ash io n c h o ic e o f d re ss i n g m o de st ly g o e s a g a i n s t t h e we st e r n sexual i satio n tren ds an d sh ows way s o f e xe c u t i n g a f a s h i o n a bl e st y l e wh i l e stayi ng c overed. Th is mo dest f as h i o n s c e n e s t e m s f ro m Is l a m i c way s o f dr essi ng mo d estly ; Mu slim wo m e n h ave i n di v i du a l i n t e r pre t a t i o n s o f wh a t they shou ld be c over in g with th e ba si c pr i n c i pl e be i n g t h e y re f r a i n f ro m dr essi ng provo c atively. So me c ho o s i n g t o h ave t h e i r e n t i re bo di e s c ove re d not i nclu din g th eir eyes, wh ere a s o t h e r be l i e ve o n ly h a i r a n d c l e av a g e sh o u l d be cove red to u p h o ld th eir mo d e s t y (3 ). Isl a m i c dre s s o f t e n g i ve s Mu sl i m wom en as sen se o f b elo n gin g and c o m mu n i t y wi t h i n a l t e r n a t i ve s o c i e t i e s , as they c an b e easily rec o gn ised a s a n Isl a m i c fo l l owe r. H owe ve r, dre ss i n g m odestly is n o t b o u n d to Islami c c u l t u re , re l i g i o n s s u c h a s Mo r m o n s , A m i s h , O r thodox Jews an d Ch r istian s. A l t h o u g h n o t t y pi c a l ly v i e we d a s m o de st dr esser s, eac h o f th ese religio n s s t a t e t h a t be l i e ve r s s h o u l d st ay m o de st t o thei r faith in th eir way o f d ressi n g – h e n c e why m o de s t dre s s i n g i s n o t a I sl am i c mean s o f exp ressin g f ait h bu t i s o f t e n fo u n d i n o t h e r re l i g i o n s, ye t pr acti se d in a d if feren t way an d c a n be e n g a g e d by a l l . I n r ecen t year s th e way s in wh ic h Mu s l i m wo m e n dre s s h a s be c o m e a ke y topi c with in wester n med ia. Wit h t h e i r c o n se r v a t i ve m a n o r o f dre ss , t h e m edi a p o r tr ay s Mu slim wo men a s o ppre ss e d wh e n i n f a c t t h e i r a bi l i t y t o dr ess i n wh at th ey d esire yet st ay m o de s t c a n o f t e n re pre se n t f re e do m . F or M uslim wo men in wester n s o c i e t y t h e re h a s be e n a g re a t s t r u g g l e of accep tan c e fo r in d ivid u al’s way o f dre ss a n d wh e n t h e F re n c h pr i m e m i ni ster, Fr an ç o is Fillo n , r u led a ba n o n t h e n i qa b (a ve i l t h a t c ove r s t h e face yet leavin g th e eyes expo se d) i n a ny pu bl i c pl a c e t h ro u g h o u t F r a n c e i n 2011( 4), o n ly to o k 10 step s bac k wa rds fo r t h e a c c e pt a n c e o f Isl a m i c dre s s i n Eur opean c o u n tr ies. Un fo r tu n a t e ly, t h i s ba n o n ly t r i g g e re d a s e n s e o f fe a r am ong oth er c o u n tr ies wh o h ave s i n c e qu e st i o n e d Is l a m i c way s o f dre s s , i ncl udi ng Belgiu m an d th e Neth e r l a n ds wh o fo l l owe d i n F r a n c e s fo o t s t e ps.
A s m o d e s t d r e s s i n g h a s b e c o m e i n c r e a s i n g ly p o p u l a r i t h a s b o u ght a b out a n e w w ave o f m o d e s t d e s i g n e r s . A s m o d e s t d r e s s i n g a s b e e n a s s ocia t ed wit h M u s l i m wo m e n , t y p i c a l ly t h e d e s i g n e r s wo u l d a l s o fo l l ow t h e s a me b elief a n d h ave a n u n d e r s t a n d i n g o f t h e r e a s o n i n g b e h i n d t h e d e s i r e to d ress m o d e s t ly. H owe ve r a s m o d e s t f a s h i o n h a s b e c o m e m o r e p o p u l ar in t he UK is n o s u r p r i s e t h a t t h e r e h a s b e c o m e a n e w s e t o f d e s i g n e r s t h a t wor k out of L o n d o n fo r B r i t i s h M u s l i m s a n d t h e B r i t i s h t h a t fo l l ow t h e s a m e concep t of d r e s s i n g . W h a t s t a r t e d a s a bu s i n e s s s o l d t o o n ly f r i e n d s a n d f amily t ur ned i n t o a 2 0 0 + c l o t h i n g a n d b r i d a l b r a n d t h a t wo u l d b e c o m e a r o ar ing success t h r o u g h o u t t h e U K bu t a l s o r e a c h t h e b o o m i n g m a r ke t o f m o dest d ressing of t h e M i d d l e E a s t . D e s i g n e r S a l e h a B a g a s i s a U K b a s e d yo u n g f a shion d esig ner w i t h a f a s h i o n d e g r e e f r o m U C L u n d e r h e r b e l t , w i t h h e r c l o t h i ng rea ching a s f a r a s D u b a i i n o n ly t h e fi r s t 4 ye a r s o f bu s i n e s s . E n s u r i n g t h at her d esig ns f u l fi l t h e n e e d t h a t wo m e n h ave fo r c l o t h i n g i n d ay t o d ay l i fe a nd up hold ing wo m e n ’s m o d e s t y r e g a r d l e s s o f t h e i n d i v i d u a l ’s f a i t h , h av i n g a mod er n a nd o n t r e n d e l e m e n t s t o p p e d w i t h a s p l a s h o f h i s t o r i c a l r e fe r e n c e ca n d efine t h e s t y l e o f B a g a s . A s m o d e s t d r e s s fo r m o s t i s n ’ t j u s t a t r e n d t ha t ca n b e l e f t i n t h e b a c k o f t h e w a r d r o b e i t i s a n e ve r y d ay n e e d fo r wo men, B a g a s s e e k s p r a c t i c a l i t y w i t h i n d e s i g n s ye t ke e p i n g t h e i d e a s u n i q u e ly on t rend a n d e l e g a n t . Te e n m o d e s t we a r i s a g a p i n t h e m a r ke t t h a t B a g a s ha s filled , c o n t i nu i n g h e r d e s i r e t o p r o d u c e f a s h i o n a bl e m o d e s t we a r a n d a lso ma ke it a p p ly t o t h e a g e r a n g e m a ke s h e r i d e a e x a c t ly w h a t w a s n e e d e d – a s mod est d r e s s i n g i s s o m e t h i n g n e e d e d by b r o a d a g e r a n g e . I n s p i r a t i o n a l q uot es a d o r n e d o n ove r s i ze d a n d s l o u c hy j u m p e r s p e r fe c t fo r t e e n s , s howing t ha t m o d e s t we a r c a n b e f a s h i o n a bl e a n d e n j oya bl e . W i t h i t e m s o f t his collect ion s e l l i n g w i t h i n a n h o u r o f g e n e r a l s a l e , p r ov i n g t h e s h e e r p o p u l a r it y of t he i n n ov a t i ve c o n c e p t . Ye t t h e c o l l e c t i o n a i m i n g a t a t e e n a g e d e m og r a p hic ha s a h i g h p r i c e p o i n t a t £ 5 0 p l u s fo r i n d i v i d u a l i t e m s m ay s e e e f fe ct on sa les a s t e e n a g e r s w i t h i n t h e U K , o f t e n wo u l d n o t b e s p e n d i n g h i g h a mount s on i n d i v i d u a l c l o t h i n g i t e m s w h i l s t b e i n g i n e d u c a t i o n a n d wo r k i n g p a r t t ime j o b s . T h i s m ay n e e d t o b e a c o n s i d e r a t i o n fo r t h e b r a n d t o e n h ance t heir p r o fi t s o n t h e i r i n n ov a t i ve c o n c e p t .
“ I t ’s a b o u t e m p o w e r i n g g i r l s t o become modest young women while still feeling confident in themselves.” Saleha Bagas (2017) (5) Sal eha Bagas fillin g th is gap in th e m a r ke t c a n o n ly l e a d t o m o re br a n ds w i deni ng th eir p o ssibilities fo r t h o se wh o se e k t o dre s s m o de st ly n o t o n ly adul t wo men bu t also fo r teen s wh o c a n o f t e n fe e l e x c l u de d f ro m s o c i e t y w hen th ey feel dif feren t to o th e r e s pe c i a l ly wh e n t h e way t h a t we dre s s i s our w ay o f expressin g p er so n ali t i e s – a n i de o l o g y t h a t Ba g a s a l s o t r i e s t o ful fi l w ith in h er b r an d c o n c ept. H owe ve r, a s t h e br a n d e x pa n ds t h e re wo u l d be a de sire fo r th e c o llec tio n to be t a ke n i n t o s t o re , o f t e n i n di v i du a l s l i ke to be able to in ter ac t with item s a n d h ave a t r u e fe e l fo r t h e m wh i c h wo u l d l ead to a r ise in sales fo r Bagas a n d wo u l d e n s u re t o e n g a g e a n e w wave o f consumer s to th e b r an d . Th is wo u l d a l so br i n g n o n m o de st dre s s e r s t o t h e br and, alth o u gh th e c o n c ept fo c u s e s a ro u n d dre s s i n g t o a m o de st s t a n da rd thi s sho u ld n o t exc lu d e th o se wh o do n o t fo l l ow t h i s l i fe s t y l e . 2017 saw th e fir st Mo d est f ash i o n we e k g r a c e t h e L o n do n S a a t c h i G a l l e r y, w i th over 30 dif feren t mo d est de si g n e r s s h owc a se t h e i r br a n ds own i nter pr e tatio n o f wh at f ash io n ca n l o o k l i ke wh e n i t i s ba se d a ro u n d a m o de s t dr esser s lifesty le . Th e c o n c ept w a s t h e t h o u g h t pro c e s s o f o n l i n e m a r ke t pl ace Hau te E lan , a mar ket p lace o f ove r 2 5 0 de si g n e r s t h a t s t r i ve t owa rds a m ode st design c o n c ept. A llow i n g fo r n e w br a n ds o n t h e m a r ke t s u c h a s Sal eha Bagas to gain th eir plac e o n a pl a t fo r m wi t h t h e h i g h e n d e s t a bl i sh e d m odest f ash io n br an ds f ro m th e m i ddl e e a s t t o s h owc a s e a l o n g s i de U K m odest d esign er s wh ic h c an o nly br i n g a bo u t n e w a n d e x c i t i n g o ppo r t u n i t i e s to br an d s like Bagas to develo p i n t o a br a n d re c o g n i se d by a l l . A di ve r se r ange of design er s, sh ows h ow bro a d t h e c o n c e pt o f m o de s t dre s s i n g c a n be . Each i ndividu al h as a sty le an d e a c h s t y l e wa s m e t a t L o n do n Mo de st F a s h i o n w hether th at be takin g a tr aditi o n a l st y l e s o f dre s s , wi t h a mu l t i t u de o f pr i n t s , r i ch colo u r p alettes an d f lu id st y l e i n c o m pa r i s o n t o o t h e r de s i g n e r s t h a t take a c lin ic al, sleek an d mo n o ch ro m a t i c st a n c e o f t h e way m o de s t f a s h i o n can be in ter preted . LMFW o p ene d t h e e ye s t o t h o s e wh o we re u n awa re o f w hat the sc en e h ad to o f fer, ma k i n g t h e fi r st o f t h e m o de st f a s h i o n e ve n t s a gr eat su c c ess. After th e su c c ess o f L MFW it is h a rdly su r pr i si n g t h a t m e di a i n f l u e n c e r s ai ded th e p o pu lar ity o f th e eve n t a n d re c o g n i t i o n o f m o de st dre s s i n g br a n ds l i ke the c reatio n s o f Saleh a Bag a s. Bu i l di n g a c l e a r pi c t u re o f wh a t m o de s t fashi on c an b e an d h ow ever yo n e c a n i n t e r pre t i t i n t o t h e i r l i ve s . D i n a To r k i a i s an i nflu en c er wh o h as pu t mo de st f a s h i o n o u t t h e re o n h e r bl o g g i n g a n d Youtube platfo r ms with 600,000 + s u bsc r i be r s s h e h a s a g re a t pl a t fo r m t o spr ead th e wo rd o f n o t o n ly h e r m o de s t l i fe s t y l e bu t a l so h e r be l i e f s . Ta k i n g her styl ish way s o f d ressin g h igh s t re e t , To r k i a h a s t u r n e d h e r st r u g g l e s o f fi ndi ng th e perfec t mo d est item s i n t o h e r own c o l l a bo r a t i o n wi t h L i be r t y o f London sh owin g th at th eir ic o n i c s c a r ve s c a n do u bl e h a s a h e a d sc a rf bu t c a n al so be wo r n in a mu ltitu d e o f m a n o r – m a k i n g i t a n i n c l u si ve g a r m e n t , a n i deal that To r kia expresses th ro u g h o u t h e r c h a n n e l – t h a t m o de s t f a s h i o n i s for anyon e th at wan ts to dress m o de st ly n o t j u s t fo r Mu sl i m wo m e n .
W i t h t h e g r ow i n g nu m b e r o f fe m a l e M u s l i m m o d e s t d r e s s e r s , l uxur y fa shion b r a n d s h ave b e g u n fi l t e r i n g t h r o u g h t h e g a p i n t h e m a r ke t fo r mod est d r e s s i n g a n d s u r p a s s i n g t r a d i t i o n a l ly m o d e s t d r e s s b r a n d s . T h e b r a nd s a re not l i m i t e d t o h i g h e n d f a s h i o n bu t a l s o h i g h s t r e e t g i a n t s h ave fo u nd t heir way o f c r e a t i n g a t w i s t o n t h e m o d e s t w ay o f d r e s s . 2 0 1 6 s aw t h e ye a r t ha t Dolce & G a bb a n a r e i nve n t e d t h e i r b r a n d s c o n c e p t i n t o a c o l l e c t i o n w it h M uslim wo m e n a n d m o d e s t d r e s s i n g i n m i n d . W i t h s i g n a t u r e s t y l e t h e collect ion saw a r a n g e o f h i j a b s ( a h e a d s c a r f t h a t l e ave s t h e f a c e c l e a r bu t c over s t he hea d a n d n e c k ) ( 3 ) a n d a b aya s ( f u l l l e n g t h ove r g a r m e n t , c l o a k l i ke g a r ment ). All a d o r n e d i n b o l d f l o r a l p r i n t s a g a i n s t d a r k f a b r i c s a n d l a c e t r i m s, a fa r cr y f r o m t r a d i t i o n a l p r i n t s u s e d w i t h i n t h e s e g a r m e n t s . A l t h o u g h t h ese g a r ment s we r e g i v i n g M u s l i m wo m e n a n d m o d e s t d r e s s e r s a c h a n c e t o fi na lly see a l u x u r y b r a n d s i n t e r p r e t a t i o n o f t h e i r e ve r y d ay we a r i t w a s s e e ming ly und er w h e l m i n g – s e e i n g a b r a n d t h a t h a s c r e a t e d i c o n i c g a r m e n t s s i mp ly a d d a p r i n t s a n d ‘ d e c o r a t e ’ w h a t e s s e n t i a l ly a l r e a d y e x i s t w a s n ’ t g r o u nd b rea k ing – n o u n i q u e p a t t e r n c u t t i n g o r a r t i s t i c r e i nve n t i o n we n t i n t o t he collect ion. I t c a m e a s n o s u r p r i s e t h a t t h e c o l l e c t i o n w a s c r e a t e d w i t h w h a t M uslim s h o p p e r s c o u l d b r i n g t o t h e b r a n d , w i t h t h e f a s h i o n o f I s l a m i c cult ure b eing l i n ke d w i t h u p p e r a n d m i d d l e c l a s s c o n s u m p t i o n i n u r b a n a r e a s (6), wit h t heir e x p e n d i t u r e o n c l o t h i n g a n d fo o t we a r b e i n g $ 2 6 6 m i l l i o n i n 2 0 13 a lone (7). I t ’s n o t o n ly l u x u r y g i a n t s l i ke D & G , O s c a r D e L a R e n t a a n d A r ma ni t ha t have b o u g h t i n t o t h e m o d e s t d r e s s i n g l i fe s t y l e bu t a l s o t h e h i g h s t r e e t , wit h UK d e p a r t m e n t s t o r e D e b e n h a m s s e t t o b e t h e fi r s t o n t h e B r i t i s h ma r ket t o b e s t o c k i n g m o d e s t b r a n d A a b w i t h a r a n g e o f t r a d i t i o n a l M u s l i m ga r ment s such a s h e a d s c a r ve s , a b aya s a n d e ve n j u m p s u i t s a n d k i m o n o s – g i v i n g t r a d it iona l m o d e s t d r e s s i n g a t w i s t t h a t n e e d s t o b e b r o u g h t t o t h e c o n s u mer s eye , in o r d e r t o s h ow t h a t m o d e s t d r e s s i n g c a n b e f a s h i o n a bl e a n d n ow a ccessible t o all.
“This is a step closer to creating a product offer that caters for broader customer needs.” Jeanette Whithear (2017) (8)
T h i s w i l l c o m e a s a s i g h o f r e l i e f t o a l l we s t e r n m o d e s t d r e s s e r s a s no long er w i l l t h e y b e fi g h t i n g w i t h ove r s e x u a l i s e d i t e m s l aye r e d t o m a ke a ha lf d ecent m o d e s t o u t fi t bu t t h e y c a n n ow fe e l o n t r e n d a n d b e a bl e t o s hop wit hout wo r r y o f w h a t i t e m s c a n b e p a i r e d w i t h , D e b e n h a m s r o l l i n g o u t t his concep t i s o n ly t h e s t a r t fo r w h e r e m o d e s t f a s h i o n c a n b e c o n s u m e d . W i t h t h e nu m b e r o f M u s l i m wo m e n a n d M o d e s t d r e s s e r s o n ly set t o r ise , it s e e m s i t h a s b e c o m e a p e r fe c t t i m e t o e x p l o r e t h e l i fe s t y l e ; W het her t ha t b e f r o m a r e l i g i o u s s t a n c e o r s i m p ly t h r o u g h a d e s i r e t o d r e s s m o d est ly – fina lly wo m e n c a n fi n d a m e a n s o f s t ay i n g o n t r e n d a n d fo l l ow i n g t h e i r own v a lues w i t h o u t a s t r u g g l e a n d w i t h a c c e p t a n c e f r o m a l l n o m a t t e r t h e i r b a ck g round . F a s h i o n m ay h ave fo u n d i t s m o s t i n c l u s i ve s e c t o r ye t .
APPENDIX
BIBLIOGRAPHY
SALEHA BAGAS VS VETEMENTS
After researc h in g in to S aleh a Ba g a s a n d t h e m o de s t dre s s i n g s c e n e , I found th at I was n o t in spired t o de ve l o p t h i s c o n c e pt a ny f u r t h e r a s I fe l t r estr i cted in ter ms o f sh ap es a n d c o n st r u c t i o n . T h e ove r a l l s t y l e o f wh a t I w as r esearc h in g with in th e mo de st f a s h i o n h a d l i t t l e re s e m bl a n c e wi t h my styl e of wo r kin g, as I o f ten wor k t owa rds a s t re e t st y l e o u t c o m e . T h e re fo re , the br an d th at I h ave sin c e take n i n s pi r a t i o n f ro m i s Ve t e m e n t s – a n i nve n t i ve youth sty le br an d th at play s o n wi t t y de t a i l e d c o n s t r u c t i o n . Al thou gh visu ally Bagas an d Ve t e m e n t s h ave fe w s i m i l a r i t i e s u n de r ly i n g r el ati on sh ip s c an be fo r med. Ba g a s s e e k s t h e m o de st f a s h i o n s c e n e t o em br ace all with in so c iety an d c re a t e g a r m e n t s t h a t do n o t c o n fo r m t o soci eties id eals o f th e mo d est dre s s e r. S i m i l a r ly, Ve t e m e n t s i n s pi r a t i o n i s take n f ro m a mu ltitu de o f in di v i du a l s wi t h i n so c i e t y. D e m n a G v a s a l i a used th eir A /W17 c o llec tio n to sh owc a s e t h e dre s s c o de s we t a ke o n a s i ndi vi du als c u r ated by o u r plac e i n s o c i e t y – o u r “ S o c i a l U n i fo r m s” (9 ). T hey created n ames an d sto r ie s be h i n d e a c h c h a r a c t e r m o de l l i n g i n t h e catw al k. A llowed fo r in -depth co n c e pt s t o de r i ve f ro m i n di v i du a l s s o c i a l backgro u n d. Th e lazy teen po r t r aye d i n a n ove r s i ze d dre ss i n g g own c o a t , str i ped py jama tro u ser s an d slu m pe d s h o u l de r s a ddi n g u p t o c re a t e t h e l o o k of thi s prec o n c eived in dividu al . Ma k i n g t h e c o l l e c t i o n c o n c e pt t o c o m e f ro m day- to-day in d ivid u als. I n ter ms o f gar men ts mo d est dre ss i n g i s re st r i c t e d a n d h a d r u l e s t o c o m ply w i th. However, Vetemen ts sees n o bo u n da r i e s i n t e r m s o f c o n s t r u c t i o n . O ver sized, revealin g c u ts an d p o l i t i c a l m e s s a g e s h ave be c o m e a s i g n a t u re fo r them . Fo r Bagas th ese wo u ld no t wo r k t o fi t t h e i r de m o g r a ph i c , sh a pe s a n d constr u c tio n h ave to b e well tho u g h t o u t t o s u i t i n di v i du a l n e e ds r a t h e r t h a n Vetem e n ts wh o c reate with n o l i m i t a t i o n s. Goi ng fo rward in d esign wo r k, I t h i n k i t i s i m po r t a n t t o be c o n s i de r m e m be r s of society. Wh eth er th at is to fo r m a c o n c e pt fo r a c o l l e c t i o n o r t o be desi gnin g fo r th ese in d ivid u als.
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