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Sizes

8-22

MIX & MATCH

8 garments for a stylish new wardrobe

MASTERCLASS Boxy denim WASHBAG

Create perfect satin stitch every time

Expert tips

Alison Smith MBE's couture secrets!

ISSUE 52 UK £6.99

Inspire Imagine Create

Easy patchwork CUSHION

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See Sam's review on page 21!

Meet the

‌ to issue 52 of Love Sewing

TEAM

W

ho is ready for the new edition of Love Sewing? We've crammed this issue full of mix-and-match garments to create yourself a new capsule collection. Our free gift is a McCall's boho blouse pattern that features great sleeve and length options. There's a chic pair of linen trousers on page 92 and columnist Claire-Louise Hardie has designed the essential Breton top on page 47.

All you need now is a classic denim dress so why not try out top-stitching with our tunic on page 56?

Simon ART EDITOR Simon is passionate about design and has a keen eye for detail.

He's creative in his spare time too and we love his range of bright and cheeky enamel pins.

See more at www.instagram.com/ simonsayspins

Make the Breton top on page 47

As you know my favourite day of the month is always the visit from our guest reviewer and I loved the sweet pastel stripes Sam chose for her version of the blouse.

When she's not busy being Editor of Sew Now magazine, Sam's whipping up garments for herself - hear her honest thoughts on making the top on page 21. It's stripes-a-plenty in this issue as I couldn't resist wearing my striped Simplicity 8342 top!

And it was laughs all day when ClaireLouise came along to shoot her Breton tee. We spent the afternoon swapping jokes and silly sewing stories.

The rest of the Love Sewing team have been crafting up a

LS52 pg03 Welcomev2.indd 3

Bethany

storm lately as well. Lorna is working on a pretty floral skirt using a pattern from issue 42, having just finished a new tote bag. Bethany has been making oodles of hand-sewn presents for friends and family and Simon has even been sending copies of the magazine home to his mum! We love that he's spreading the sewing bug and hopefully we'll see Mrs Kay on the readers' makes page soon!

There's no better feeling than when you're busy creating something special. Remember you can always find plenty of inspiration, free sewing patterns and information about the magazine on our website www.lovesewingmag.co.uk

DEPUTY EDITOR Bethany loves nothing more than indulging in a quiet spot of cross stitch in her free time. She’s also the creator of the Make It Betty 'Sketch it Stitch it' notebooks available at www.makeitbetty. etsy.com

Lorna EDITORIAL ASSISTANT Lorna has buckets of enthusiasm for making magazines. She's excited to see your makes so remember to send them to letters@lovesewingmag. co.uk

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83 Readers’ makes 84 Pattern picks – See the new Simplicity pattern collection 87 Machine review 88 Thread therapy with Marna Lunt 90 Exclusive reader offer 96 Coming next issue 3 issues for just £6 when you subscribe – see page 26 for further info

/lovesewingmag www.lovesewingmag.co.uk

Find us online

18 Your free McCall’s pattern gift – 4-in-1 blouse pack 28 Hit the bricks patchwork cushion 36 Kiss and make-up boxy washbag 47 Earn your stripes Breton tee 56 Ahoy there chambray dress 62 Get your sea legs octopus toy 69 Sew and sow gardener’s apron 78 Penny pincher snappy pouch 92 Green with envy linen trousers 98 Prickly customer cactus terrarium embroidery M7390

TOPS: Semi-fitted, pullover tops have neckband, seam detail, HAUTS: Hauts semi-ajustés, hemline variations, and narrow hem. à passer par la tête, A: Lower sections bande d’encolure, cut on crosswise grain. à coutures apparentes, armhole A, B: facing, variations wrong de linge d’ourlet et side shows on hemline.Bias étroit. A: Parties inférieures coupées Darted pockets and ourlet C: d’entournure en sur le fil de trame. stitched hems. D: A, B: Parementure biais, l’envers visible Front overlay, et elasticized lower edge sur la ligne d’ourlet. ourlets piqués. D: of sleeves, and purchased C: Poches à pinces Pièce superposée trim. devant, élastique bord inférieur des et galon acheté. manches TOPS PARA JÓVENES Y SEÑORAS: Tops la cabeza, con banda semientallados, para de escote, costuras ponerse por expuestas, variaciones dobladillo y dobladillo angosto. A: Secciones de línea de de la trama. A, B: Vista superiores cortadas sobre el hilo de sisa al sesgo, revés C: Bolsillos visible en con la línea pinzas de Combinations: A5(6-8-10-12-1 dobladillo. y dobladillos angostos. frente, borde inferior D: Pieza sobrepuesta 4), E5(14-16-18-20 de mangas con elástico SUGGESTED FABRICS: en el -22) y ribete comprado.

Chambray, Cotton Séries/Combinaciones: Contrast D: Lace, Blends, Linen, Crepe A5(6-8-10-12-1 Eyelet. de Chine.

4), E5(14-16-18-20 TISSUS CONSEILLÉS: -22) Contraste D: Dentelle, Chambray, Cotonnade, Toile de lin, Crêpe Broderie anglaise. de Chine.

TELAS SUGERIDAS: Chambray, Mezclas de algodón, Contraste D: Encaje, Lino, Crepé de China.

Broderie.

TAILLES/TALLAS 6 8 10 12 14 A 115cm*** 16 18 20 1.60 1.60 1.60 1.80 1.80 1.90 1.90 2.20 22 150cm*** 1.50 1.50 1.50 1.50 1.50 1.50 1.60 1.60 2.20 m B 115cm*** 1.50 1.50 1.50 1.60 1.60 m 1.80 1.90 150cm*** 1.90 2.20 1.30 2.20 m 1.30 1.30 1.30 1.30 C 115cm*** 1.60 1.60 1.60 1.60 1.60 1.80 1.80 1.90 1.90 2.10 2.10 1.60 m 150cm*** 1.40 1.40 1.40 1.40 1.60 1.60 1.60 1.60 2.10 m D 115cm*** 1.30 1.30 1.30 1.30 1.50 1.50 1.50 1.50 1.60 m 150cm*** 1.10 1.10 1.10 1.10 1.10 1.10 1.20 1.20 1.50 m CONTRASTE 1D 1.20 m 115cm*** 1.20 1.20 1.20 1.20 1.20 1.30 1.40 1.50 150cm*** 1.20 1.20 1.20 1.20 1.20 1.20 1.20 1.20 1.50 m CONTRASTE 2D 115, 150cm*** 1.20 m

***With or Without Nap

Yds. " Yds. " Yds. " Yds. " " "

- 0.80m ENTOILAGE THERMOCOLLA NT/ENTRETELA TERMOADHESI 46, 51cm - 0.50m VA A,

Ins. "

" "

" " "

B, C, D

MERCERIE: D: 1.40m de Galon de 2.5cm, MERCERÍA: D: 1.40m 0.50m de Élastique de 6mm. de Ribete de 2.5cm, MESURES DU VÊTEMENT 0.50m de Elástico de 6mm.

Mesure à la poitrine/Conto FINI/MEDIDAS DE LA PRENDA ACABADA rno de busto A, B, C, D 90 93 95 99 104 Mesure aux hanches/Conto 109 115 120 125 cm rno de caderas A, C 95 Largeur à l’ourlet/Ancho98 100 104 109 115 120 125 130 cm inferior A, C 97 99 102 105 110 B, D 116 121 126 155 131 cm Longueur - dos, votre 157 160 164 169 174 179 184 nuque à l’ourlet/Largo 190 cm A, B de espalda desde 69 la nuca 69 70 71 71 C 72 72 73 64 74 64 65 66 66 cm D 67 67 69 65 69 66 66 67 67 cm 68 *Avec Sens 69 69 70 cm *Con Pelillo **Sin Pelillo

M7390

SIZES 6 8 10 12 14 A 45"*** 16 18 1≥ 1≥ 1≥ 20 22 1π 1π 2 60"*** 2 1∫ 1∫ 1∫ 2∑ 2∑ 1∫ 1∫ 1∫ B 45"*** 1≥ 1∫ 1≥ 1∫ 1≥ 1∫ 1≥ 1π 2 60"*** 2 1∑ 1∑ 1∑ 2∑ 2∑ 1∑ 1∑ 1≥ C 45"*** 1≥ 1≥ 1≥ 1≥ 1≥ 1π 1π 2 2 60"*** 2≤ 2≤ 2≤ 1∞ 1∞ 1∞ 1∞ 1≥ 1≥ D 45"*** 1≥ 1≥ 1≥ 1∑ 1∑ 1∑ 1∑ 1∫ 1∫ 60"*** 1∫ 1∫ 1∫ 1∂ 1∂ 1∂ 1∂ 1∂ 1∂ CONTRAST 1D 1≤ 1≤ 1≤ 45"*** 1≤ 1≤ 1≤ 1≤ 1≤ 1∑ 60"*** 1∞ 1∫ 1∫ 1≤ 1≤ 1≤ 1≤ 1≤ CONTRAST 2D - 45", 1≤ 1≤ 1≤ 1≤ 60"*** - π yd.

FUSIBLE INTERFACING A, B, C, D 18", 20" - ∞ yd.

NOTIONS: D: 1∞ yds. of 1" Trim, ∞ yd. of ≤" Elastic.

FINISHED GARMENT MEASUREMEN TS Measurement at bustline A, B, C, D 35∞ 36∞ 37∞ 39 41 Measurement 43 45 at 47 hipline 49 A, C 37∞ 38∞ 39∞ 41 43 Width, lower edge 45 47 49 51 A, C 38 39 40 41∞ 43∞ 45∞ B, D 47∞ 49∞ 51∞ 61 62 63 64∞ 66∞ 68∞ Back length from 70∞ 72∞ 74∞ base of neck A, B 27 27≤ 27∞ 27≥ 28 C 28≤ 28∞ 28≥ 25 25≤ 25∞ 25≥ 29 26 D 26≤ 26∞ 26≥ 25∞ 25≥ 26 27 26≤ 26∞ 26≥ *With Nap **Without 27 27≤ 27∞ Nap

**Sans Sens ***Avec ou Sans Sens

***Con o Sin Pelillo

1 1

1

1

PROJECTS

A B

Copyright© 2016, The

C

2

D

McCall Pattern Co., 120

Broadway, New York 10271, All Rights Reserved.

Sold for individual home Printed in U.S.A. Trademarks use only and not for Reg. U.S. Pat. & TM Off. commercial or manufacturing Reserve à un usage Marca Registrada purposes. www.mccallpatter personnel. Utilisation commerciale ou industrielle n.com strictement interdite.

M7390_ENV

B

SIZE/ TAILLE

C

18

A5/E5 ( 6 - 2 2 )

A D BODY MEASUREMEN TS/MESURES/MEDIDAS SIZES/TAILLES/TALLAS DEL CUERPO 6 8 10 Bust 12 14 16 18 20 30∞ 31∞ 32∞ 34 Waist 36 38 40 42 23 24 25 26∞ Hip 28 30 32 34 32∞ 33∞ 34∞ 36 Back Waist Length 38 40 42 44 15∞ 15≥ 16 16≤ 16∞ 16≥ 17 17≤ 77 80 83 87 92 97 102 107 58 61 64 67 71 76 81 87 83 85 88 92 97 102 107 112 espalda 39.5 40 40.5 41.5 42 42.5 43 44

M7390

22 44 Ins. 37 Ins. 46 Ins. 17∞ Ins.

Four styles of blouses

Poitrine/Busto Taille/Cintura Hanches/Caderas Longueur dos/Largo

112 cm 94 cm 117 cm 44.5 cm

Welcome Love Sewing Loves A Brief History of linen Sewing room swoon Fabric focus – Join the circus Reader review: free pattern gift This month I’m making The Dressmaker’s Diary with Elisalex de Castro Peake SUBSCRIBE TODAY Pattern picks – Save 20% on our selection of McCall’s patterns Behind the seams with Wendy Ward Fabric focus – Stretch yourself Skill building with Wendy Gardiner Swatch Selector with Kerry Green 15 minutes with Jodi Godfrey Jade Earley the girl with the bright red hair Sewing workshops In the good books PATTERN READING BASICS AND FITTING ESSENTIALS DISCOUNTS AND GIVEAWAYS Thrifty Stitcher with Claire-Louise Hardie Fabric focus – Save 20% on selected Croft Mill fabric Support your local shop!

Couture sew-along with Alison Smith MBE

M7390

76 80 74 65 72 52 55 60 44 50 43 38 40 34 26 30 3 6 10 14 16 21 23 24

REGULARS AND FEATURES

YELLOW MAGENT A CYAN BLACK

Inside this ISSUE

Editorial 65

47

Win

Exclusive design

Editor Amy Thomas Deputy Editor Bethany Armitage Editorial Assistant Lorna Malkin Senior Sub-Editor Justine Moran Sub-Editor Kayleigh Hooton Senior Art Editor Sher Ree Tai Art Editor Simon Kay Senior Product Photographer Tym Leckey Photographers Renata Stonyte, Amy Worrall Hair & make-up Nina Rochford Contributors Claire-Louise Hardie, Alison Smith MBE, Elisalex de Castro Peake, Wendy Ward, Jade Earley, Wendy Gardiner, Kerry Green

Publishing & Advertising Head of Softcrafts Ruth Walker Advertising Sales Executive Noune Sarkissian noune.sarkissian@practical publishing.co.uk Advertising Consultant Amanda Paul Sales & Information Support Executive Stacey Oldman Subscriptions Manager Daniel Tutton Distribution Manager Lauren Murray Production Executive Anna Olejarz Buying Assistant Rachael Edmunds Managing Editor Kate Heppell Managing Art Editor Jennifer Lamb Head of Content & Positioning Gavin Burrell Group Buying Manager Olivia Foster Financial Director Chris Dunbar Strategy & Insights Director Dave Cusick Managing Director Danny Bowler Group Managing Director Robin Wilkinson

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Distribution Seymour Distribution Ltd

Contact Practical Publishing International Ltd, Suite G2 St Christopher House, 217 Wellington Road South, Stockport SK2 6NG info@practicalpublishing.co.uk www.practicalpublishing.co.uk Tel: 0844 561 1202 Fax: 0161 474 6961

36 28

Subscription Enquiries

Tel: 01858 438899 practicalpublishing@subscription.co.uk

Other Enquiries

Tel: 0844 561 1202 customerservice@practicalpublishing.co.uk Love Sewing is published by Practical Publishing International Ltd ISSN 2054-832X All material © Practical Publishing International Ltd. The style and mark of Love Sewing is used under licence from Practical Publishing International Holdings Ltd. No material in whole or in part may be reproduced, stored or transmitted in any form whatsoever without the prior written consent of Practical Publishing International Ltd. The publisher welcomes contributions from readers. All such contributions and submissions to the magazine are sent to and accepted by the publisher on the basis of a non-exclusive transferable worldwide licence unless otherwise agreed in writing prior to first publication. Such submissions are also subject to being used, reproduced, modified, published, edited, translated, distributed and displayed in any media or medium, or any form, format or forum now known or hereafter developed, for any purpose, in perpetuity.

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CONTRIBUTORS

Practical Publishing International Ltd is a member of the PPA

Marna Lunt

Jodi Godfrey

Debbie von Grabler-Crozier

Claire-Louise Hardie

Discover the benefits of stitch therapy as Marna takes us through how mindful sewing is actually good for your health on page 88. See Marna’s upcoming retreats, online courses and try her downloadable patterns at www.embroiderycourse.co.uk

Sewing author and blogger Debbie is back again with a clever gardener’s apron and secateurs pouch on page 69.

Discover more of Debbie’s crafty creations at www.sallyandcraftyvamp.blogspot.co.uk

Stock images provided by Shutterstock, Inc

Paper piecing and hexie enthusiast Jodi shows us her colourful and creative world of quilts on page 44. Follow Jodi’s latest quilt patterns and shop the wide range of EPP shapes at www.talesofcloth.co.uk

As well as being a teacher, author and one of our regular columnists, Claire-Louise found time to design the essential Breton tee! Find the project on page 47 and visit ClaireLouise’s sewing school at www.thriftystitcher.co.uk

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The patterns, people, fabric and finds getting us sewing this month

TOP CHOICE! How pretty is the new Montrose top pattern from Cashmerette? There are two timeless options to choose from, View A with a scoop-neck blouse, short sleeves and curved back yoke and View B which is designed to show off lace fabric with a keyhole back, elbow-length sleeves and jewel neck. We love the idea of using a flirty floral voile or a lovely lace overlay to give this top a real luxurious feel, perfect for special occasions.

Sizes: 16-32 Price: $14 (approximately £9.95) from www. cashmerette.com

Screen icons Have a go at being a fabric designer and let your creative side take hold by giving screen printing a go. Using one of the easy kits from Bobbinhood you can screen-print from the comfort of your own home, allowing you to make Receive crisp and colourful designs without the need for 10% off tonnes of cleaning and at www.bobbin prepping. The kits come hood.com using with handmade wooden the code screens, a squeegee, LOVETOMAKE reusable waterproof Offer valid until 31st May 2018 sheets, tape and ecofriendly screen-painting ink.

Plus, the step-by-step manuals are lovely and clear to follow, explaining how to layer your motifs and create graphic prints to jazz up your memade wardrobe in no time!

Price: Screen-print kits available from €59 (approximately £51.53) at www.bobbinhood.com

LOVELY IN LEMON When life gives you lemons, you go away and sew a fabulous dress, are we right? Make this dream a reality with this stunning stretch cotton sateen from Fabric Godmother. Available in a soft aqua shade it’s adorned with painted lemons in zingy yellow.

The elastane element of the fabric makes it easy to sew with and comfortable to wear, so it is great for not only dresses but also fitted trousers or pencil skirts.

Price: £11 per metre from www.fabricgodmother.co.uk

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Stitchers gonna

STITCH VINTAGE TREATS 2017 was a huge year for Simplicity as the much-loved pattern brand celebrated its 90th anniversary. To mark this big occasion, a collection of vintage-inspired goodies was released, including everything from mugs to wall art and tea towels, each featuring beautiful pattern imagery from the brand’s rich history. These gifts and accessories were such a huge hit that Simplicity has extended the range to include sewing kits, writing sets, umbrellas and much, much more! Ideal for the dressmaker who thinks she has it all.

Shop: See the entire range at www.simplicitynewlook.com

g n i w e s r e m m u S

This year's #sewtogetherforsummer challenge is focusing on the iconic wrap dress! This style staple suits all shapes and sizes and can be made in anything from figure-hugging scuba to luxurious, floaty silk. The challenge runs until 21st June and there are opportunities to win a host of sewing goodies along the way. Simply post photos of your wrap dress with the hashtag #sewtogetherforsummer to take part! Last year, more than 400 shirtdresses were made and organisers, Sarah @sewsarahsmith, Suzy @sewing_in_spain and Monika @rocco.sienna hope that 2018's challenge will be even bigger.

Get involved: Search #sewtogetherforsummer on Instagram or visit www.sewsarahsmith.com to find out more

The cross stitch and embroidery we’re loving this month

Bethany Deputy Editor

TIME FOR TEA

This month I’m aching to try the new Tea Party collection of embroidery transfer sheets from Threaders. Each pack includes six different sheets of cakes, treats and sentiments, simply iron them on to your fabric and stitch away!

Available for £4.99 from www.crafterscompanion.co.uk

STITCH MAGIC

Stitching onto clothes always looks like a tricky idea, which is why I was so excited to see that DMC’s new Magic Paper Kits are here to solve this problem! Attach the paper with the design you want to use onto your fabric and stitch through the lines. When you’re all done, soak the paper in warm water and it washes away, how amazing is that? Get yours for £5.99 at www.dmc.com

ESSENTIAL STITCHING Organiser Monika in her Orsola dress from By Hand London Suzy in her Sew Over It Eve wrap dress

When it comes to machine embroidery, having the right needle is so important. The elongated eye in the Janome red tip needles are designed specifically for this cause and are ideal when using metallic embroidery thread too, preventing tangles and unwanted shredding. Available for £5.50 per pack of five at www.j-shop.co.uk

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MACHINE REPAIRS

In the basket

Store your sewing supplies in style with this retro-look basket. In bold black and white polka dots with red detailing, it’s large enough to keep all of your tools and haberdashery items safe, whether they’re in your sewing room or travelling with you to your next retreat. We love to stay organised, and with seven compartments, lots of little pockets and a pincushion, you’ll never lose your sewing essentials again!

Shop: Find your nearest stockist at www.prym.com

Just like your trusty motor, your sewing machine needs to be serviced every year.

Machine manufacturers recommend annual maintenance to help you catch any problems and keep it sewing smoothly every time. At Frank Nutt, a full service includes everything from machine strip down to cleaning, oiling, timing reset, tension adjustments and even software updates, where applicable. Plus, you can also receive a sixmonth guarantee, bonus!

Get in touch: To find out more and get a free quote, contact www.franknutt.co.uk

STRETCH YOUR

WIN!

skills

A lightweight knit top is a wardrobe essential, especially in the warmer weather, and top of our tosew list is the brand-new Ostara Top from Jennifer Lauren Handmade. This classic and comfortable top is the perfect base layer as we head into spring, with either elbow-length or long sleeves and a choice of sweetheart or u-shaped necklines. Like Jennifer Lauren Handmade’s other patterns, it has a nod to vintage but this design is so versatile it really will suit any style and shape.

A lovely little project to stretch your skills when sewing with knits.

Size: 6-24 Price: $11 (approximately £7.79) for PDF pattern from www. jenniferlauren handmade.store

Enter online at www. ppjump.com/ls52 to win a free onemonth subscription to justhandson-tv.

Competition closes 17th May 2018. Open worldwide.

LOVE TO

learn

We’ve teamed up with the lovely folks at Just Hands-On TV to offer one lucky winner a one-month subscription to justhands-on.tv! By becoming a subscriber, you can receive unlimited access to online classes for patchwork, quilting and textile arts so you can learn new techniques and come up with new designs, all under the expert tutelage of some of sewing world’s bestloved tutors/ Learn from home at your own pace and join the growing Just Hands-On TV community.

Win: Enter online at www.ppjump.com/ls52 to win a free one-month subscription to justhandson-tv. Competition closes 17th May 2018.

Open worldwide.

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FRIDA KAHLO UNCOVERED

There are few more iconic women in the world of fashion than Mexican artist Frida Kahlo.

Known for her combinations of exotic colours, bold prints and tactile embellishments, her artistic skills and wardrobe continue to influence modern-day makers.

If you want to get up close with Frida’s famous works and clothing, be sure to head to the latest exhibition at the Victoria & Albert Museum, Frida Kahlo: Making Her Self Up tells the story of this unique artist through her most intimate personal belongings, including lots of fantastic textiles!

The exhibition doesn’t open until June but accompanying talks and workshops are selling out fast so don’t delay if you’re a fan of Frida.

When: Exhibition opens 16th June 2018 Where: V&A, Cromwell Road, London Price: Exhibition tickets are from £15 at www.vam.ac.uk Frida Kahlo in blue satin blouse, 1939, photograph by Nickolas Muray © Nickolas Muray Photo Archives

STAMP OF

APPROVAL We sewists are a generous bunch. Hands up if you’re always sewing up presents for friends and family. I know we are! Once you’ve spent time lovingly making something, why not make the wrapping extra special too? These sweet little rubberstamps from Skull and Cross Buns boast scissors and bobbin designs and are just the right size for gift tags and cards.

Price: £4.50 each at www.notonthehighstreet.com

Go with the flow

Oh we do love a floaty jacket; it dresses up any outfit and makes a great holiday cover up. The Butterick 6516 multi-pattern set is packed with five different items to help build your capsule wardrobe, including jackets, a dress, top and trousers. The flowing jacket is a firm favourite though and would look beautiful in a crepe de chine, georgette or lace. Just what you need for a last-minute mini break!

Size: 6-22 Price: £8.95 at www.sewdirect.com

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A BRIEF HISTORY OF

A brief history of

LINEN FIND OUT MORE Learn about the I Love Linen campaign taking place from 15th April at www.ilovelinen.uk Visit these websites to find out more about the long and rich history of linen www.irishlinen.co.uk www.belgianlinen.com 10 www.lovesewingmag.co.uk

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With a long history and a unique production method, linen has stood the test of time in trade, textiles and crafts and remains as dominant as ever today

T

he spinning and weaving of linen is depicted on wall paintings of ancient Egypt. As early as 3,000 B.C., the fibre was processed into fine white fabric (540 threads to the inch – finer than anything woven today) and wrapped around the mummies of the ancient Egyptian pharaohs. Mentioned several times in the Bible, linen has been used as a cool, comfortable fibre in the Middle East for centuries as well. Ancient Greeks and Romans greatly valued it as a commodity. Finnish traders are believed to have introduced flax to Northern Europe where it has been under cultivation for centuries.

Both wool and linen were tremendously important in European history as before the industrial revolution much sturdy, homemade clothing was woven from linen cultivated, processed, spun, dyed, woven and sewn by hand. It may be argued that until the 18th century, linen was the most important textile in the world. But in the late 18th century, cotton became the fibre that was most easily and inexpensively processed and woven in the mechanised British textile mills.

Butterick 6025 features a top, tunic and dress that would be perfect in printed or plain linen. Available in sizes 8-16 and 16-24 for ÂŁ8.95 from www.sewdirect.com

Linen fabric is made from the cellulose fibre that grows inside the stalks of the flax plant, or Linum usitatissimum, one of the oldest cultivated plants in human history. It grows to about three or four feet tall, with glossy bluishgreen leaves and pale blue flowers, though on rare occasions the flowers bloom red. Due to the plant’s short lifespan, each flax flower blooms only once.

The process begins with sowing in March and harvesting in July. The flax plant grows to its full height after three months. The taller the flax plant, the longer the fibre and the plants are pulled from the ground rather than cut to get the most out of the length. Following the Irish method, the cut flax is steeped in water (retting) for several days to soften it, then laid out to dry. In Europe it is laid flat and exposed to the elements for two weeks. When ready, it is bundled and prepared for transferring to the mill.

Flax is sent from around the world to be retted in the magical waters of the River Lys

The three stages of linen production: dried flax, spun fibres and woven fabric

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Until the 18th century, linen was the most important textile in the world

Special machinery combs and separates the fibres then the spinning process creates the long, strong and smooth bobbins of thread. These are separated into weft and warp bobbins and then woven together on looms, with any imperfections that occur being corrected by hand. Some linen is sold in the 'loom state' (unfinished) but most are washed, bleached, dyed or given fire or waterrepellent coatings before sale.

Though over the last few hundred years we’ve developed machines that complete the tasks of harvesting, retting and dressing flax, these processes damage the delicate fibres such that finest linen is still manufactured almost entirely by hand. Because the process is still so laborious, even mechanised flax production requires a great deal more handwork than other mass industrially produced textiles such as cotton and rayon.

Milenda Dress by Tessuti PDF pattern, AUD $12 (approximately ÂŁ6.59)

Sheaves of flax drying in the fields before going to the mill

The best-quality linen is retted in slow-moving natural water sources such as streams and rivers. In fact, the highest-quality linen in the world is retted in Belgium in the River Lys, though to this day chemists have been unable to determine what makes the water so conducive to the retting process. Harvested flax is sent to Belgium from France, Holland and even as far away as South America to be retted in the magical waters of the River Lys, which is typically crowded for miles with weighteddown flax bundles.

Irish linen is the best known and most valuable, though most of the flax used for manufacturing is grown elsewhere and imported into the country for processing. The climate in Ireland is quite favorable for flax processing, and the slow Irish bleaching methods inflict minimal damage on the fibres. European linen is the next finest, with the French producing the whitest and most delicate of textiles. Scotch linen is generally considered of medium quality, while German linen quality ranges from good to poor.

More recently a different variety of flax plant has been raised not for its linen fibres but for its seeds. The linseed variety is grown primarily to extract the seed’s highly nutritious oil. We'll keep favouring the other variety that keeps our sewing rooms well stocked in beautiful fabric.

Fun fact

Merchant & Mills stocks a large selection of laundered linen in multiple colourways

Blink and you could miss the fields of beautiful blue flax flowers. Each flower blooms only once in its lifetime!

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Unlock your Meet the Singer 7465 Confidence ✼

✼ Automatic stitch length and width ✼ Drop and Sew™ Bobbin system ✼ 50 built-in stitches ✼ Two Fully automatic 1-step buttonhole ✼ Drop feed for free hand sewing ✼ 2 StayBright™ LED lights ✼ Twin needle setting ✼ Automatic needle threader ✼ 13 needle positions Easy stitch selection

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AROUND

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The world’s favourite sewing machines

Tradition

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Sewing room

SWOON We chat to blogger and sewist Emma Prestidge about her beautiful sewing room and clever storage solutions

Hi Emma! Can you tell our readers a little bit about yourself?

I called myself Emma's Atelier as I consider myself a sewing artist. My sewing practice is influenced by my background in Fine Arts which I studied at university. I am passionate about using unique prints and wearing bold colour. I want to celebrate my creativity through my clothing in daily life.

My sewing space is in a spare room of my house that I share with my husband Paul and my two cats Mila and Maknoon. I work full-time, but I try and sew almost daily.

Having a small but inspiring space works well for me, as I have to keep it clean and tidy. A tidy space, ready to create!

How do you organise your beautiful sewing space?

My storage wall showcases all my thread, findings, buttons and cute objects. I’m a very practical person, I love the objects I surround myself with to be beautiful but also functional.

I have a pegboard for holding scissors and two thread racks, one for cotton and the other for bobbins. The artwork on the walls are pieces that I’ve collected over a number of years. The framed cat is from the front of a greeting card, the embroidery is a custom artwork from an artist I admire, the rest all handmade works purchased from art exhibitions.

14 www.lovesewingmag.co.uk

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ABOUT

Emma Prestidge Emma is also known as Emma's Atelier. She’s a talented sewist and blogger from Wellington, New Zealand. Take a look at Emma’s gorgeous makes online at www.emmasatelierblog.com and www.instagram.com/Emmas_Atelier Emma's Atelier was captured for this feature by Emma's friend and photographer Daniel Koene. Find more of his work online at www.danielkoene.com

Wow, you've really come up with some creative space-saving ideas!

One of my favourite parts of my sewing space is my ironing board station that I made from a baby-changing table.

I removed the legs from the ironing board and cable-tied the board to the top of the table. The shelf underneath is perfect for storage.

It's safe to say I have a lot of patterns!

I store my printed PDF patterns in a number of A4 clear files. They are sorted by garment type so I can find things quickly and the folders are nice and big so the patterns don't get too crumpled.

Currently, I have several sewing machines – a Bernette B38, Bernina 830, Bernina 807 an overlocker Brother 3403D and a Bernette B48 overlocker.

I hope you love seeing my Atelier! Let's become friends on Instagram!

I love the objects I surround myself with to be beautiful but also functional

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FABRIC

1

2

3

Join the

CIRCUS 4

6

With elephants, acrobat mice, the classic big top and more, the new collection from GĂźtermann is a real carnival of fun

7

5

8

Fabric shopping Spots on pink 647603 Stars in blue 647602 Big top in pink 647600 Bunting in yellow and pink 647601 Spots on brown 647603 Elephants in blue 647604 Seals on blue 647606 Acrobat mice on brown 647599 18 designs available by the metre, priced ÂŁ18.90 per metre.

For your local stockist, contact gutermann@stockistenquiries.co.uk 16 www.lovesewingmag.co.uk

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Sew Amazing Offers INNOV-IS XV

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0161 707 7786 01229 823 714 01524 734 713 01253 870 470 01254 693 555 01244 394 099 01254 389 171 01706 366 943 01228 599 880 01524 261 868 0114 255 2822 01748 811593 01904 626 244 01472 343 921 0153 560 9466 01902 458 885 01522 521 841 0116 319 6930 01905 249 40 01922 497 603 0115 844 8000 0115 927 1155 0121 373 5497 01538 371 682 01743 343 902 0116 274 4730 01234 217 096 01502 714 234 01245 346 300 01206 563 955 01473 221 188 01553 773 362 01449 257 070 01792 655 928 02922 402 418 01633 284 646 01745 586 845 08006 226 224 01273 621 653 0208 236 1520 01483 267 777 01634 841 597 01268 570 248 02380 650 808 01233 612 278 01295 701 384 02086 921 077 01622 670 254 0208 4780 669 01992 640 250 01189 268 664 0207 228 3022 01227 457 723 02392 697 621 01420 544033 02085 741 750 0208 767 0036 01932 352 958 01689 638 638 01892 533 188 07547 006 618 01934 838 327 01626 369 840 01392 275 660 01722 554 466 01793 536 778 01209 216 942 01202 886 001 028 9045 6015

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Decorative border print, viscose, £6.99 per metre www.minervacrafts.com M7390

HAUTS: Hauts semi-ajustés, à passer par la tête, à TOPS: Semi-fitted, pullover tops have neckband, seam detail, hemline variations, and narrow hem. bande d’encolure, coutures apparentes, variations de linge d’ourlet et ourlet A: Lower sections cut on crosswise grain. A, B: Bias étroit. A: Parties inférieures coupées sur le fil de trame. A, B: Parementure armhole facing, wrong side shows on hemline. C: d’entournure en biais, l’envers visible sur la ligne d’ourlet. C: Poches à pinces Darted pockets and stitched hems. D: Front overlay, et ourlets piqués. D: Pièce superposée devant, bord inférieur des manches elasticized lower edge of sleeves, and purchased trim. élastique et galon acheté.

TOPS PARA JÓVENES Y SEÑORAS: Tops semientallados, para ponerse por la cabeza, con banda de escote, costuras expuestas, variaciones de línea de dobladillo y dobladillo angosto. A: Secciones superiores cortadas sobre el hilo de la trama. A, B: Vista de sisa al sesgo, revés visible en la línea de dobladillo.

C: Bolsillos con pinzas y dobladillos angostos. D: Pieza sobrepuesta en el frente, borde inferior de mangas con elástico y ribete comprado.

We used

Combinations: A5(6-8-10-12-14), E5(14-16-18-20-22) Séries/Combinaciones: A5(6-8-10-12-14), E5(14-16-18-20-22) SUGGESTED FABRICS: Chambray, Cotton Blends, Linen, Crepe de Chine. TISSUS CONSEILLÉS: Chambray, Cotonnade, Toile de lin, Crêpe de Chine.

Contrast D: Lace, Eyelet.

Contraste D: Dentelle, Broderie anglaise.

TELAS SUGERIDAS: Chambray, Mezclas de algodón, Lino, Crepé de China.

Contraste D: Encaje, Broderie.

TAILLES/TALLAS 6 8 10 12 14 16 18 20 22 A 115cm*** 1.60 1.60 1.60 1.80 1.80 1.90 1.90 2.20 2.20 m 150cm*** 1.50 1.50 1.50 1.50 1.50 1.50 1.60 1.60 1.60 m B 115cm*** 1.50 1.50 1.50 1.60 1.80 1.90 1.90 2.20 2.20 m 150cm*** 1.30 1.30 1.30 1.30 1.30 1.60 1.60 1.60 1.60 m C 115cm*** 1.60 1.60 1.80 1.80 1.90 1.90 2.10 2.10 2.10 m 150cm*** 1.40 1.40 1.40 1.40 1.60 1.60 1.60 1.60 1.60 m D 115cm*** 1.30 1.30 1.30 1.30 1.50 1.50 1.50 1.50 1.50 m 150cm*** 1.10 1.10 1.10 1.10 1.10 1.10 1.20 1.20 1.20 m CONTRASTE 1D 115cm*** 1.20 1.20 1.20 1.20 1.20 1.30 1.40 1.50 1.50 m 150cm*** 1.20 1.20 1.20 1.20 1.20 1.20 1.20 1.20 1.20 m CONTRASTE 2D - 115, 150cm*** - 0.80m

SIZES 6 8 10 12 14 16 18 A 45"*** 1≥ 1≥ 1≥ 1π 1π 2 2 60"*** 1∫ 1∫ 1∫ 1∫ 1∫ 1∫ 1≥ B 45"*** 1∫ 1∫ 1∫ 1≥ 1π 2 2 60"*** 1∑ 1∑ 1∑ 1∑ 1∑ 1≥ 1≥ C 45"*** 1≥ 1≥ 1π 1π 2 2 2≤ 60"*** 1∞ 1∞ 1∞ 1∞ 1≥ 1≥ 1≥ D 45"*** 1∑ 1∑ 1∑ 1∑ 1∫ 1∫ 1∫ 60"*** 1∂ 1∂ 1∂ 1∂ 1∂ 1∂ 1≤ CONTRAST 1D 45"*** 1≤ 1≤ 1≤ 1≤ 1≤ 1∑ 1∞ 60"*** 1≤ 1≤ 1≤ 1≤ 1≤ 1≤ 1≤ CONTRAST 2D - 45", 60"*** - π yd.

FUSIBLE INTERFACING A, B, C, D 18", 20" - ∞ yd.

NOTIONS: D: 1∞ yds. of 1" Trim, ∞ yd. of ≤" Elastic.

1∫ 1≤

1∫ 1≤

22 2∑ 1≥ 2∑ 1≥ 2≤ 1≥ 1∫ 1≤

20 2∑ 1≥ 2∑ 1≥ 2≤ 1≥ 1∫ 1≤

Yds. " Yds. " Yds. " Yds. "

With this fabulous border design, you need to cut the front panels carefully to use the print in the prettiest possible way. " "

ENTOILAGE THERMOCOLLANT/ENTRETELA TERMOADHESIVA A, B, C, D 46, 51cm - 0.50m

" " "

28≤ 28∞ 28≥ 29 26≤ 26∞ 26≥ 27 26≥ 27 27≤ 27∞

" "

45∞ 47∞ 49∞ 51∞ 68∞ 70∞ 72∞ 74∞

"

47

45

45

43

47 49

49 51

Ins.

*With Nap **Without Nap ***With or Without Nap

MERCERIE: D: 1.40m de Galon de 2.5cm, 0.50m de Élastique de 6mm.

MERCERÍA: D: 1.40m de Ribete de 2.5cm, 0.50m de Elástico de 6mm.

MESURES DU VÊTEMENT FINI/MEDIDAS DE LA PRENDA ACABADA Mesure à la poitrine/Contorno de busto A, B, C, D 90 93 95 99 104 109 115 120 125 cm Mesure aux hanches/Contorno de caderas A, C 95 98 100 104 109 115 120 125 130 cm Largeur à l’ourlet/Ancho inferior A, C 97 99 102 105 110 116 121 126 131 cm B, D 155 157 160 164 169 174 179 184 190 cm Longueur - dos, votre nuque à l’ourlet/Largo de espalda desde la nuca A, B 69 69 70 71 71 72 72 73 74 cm C 64 64 65 66 66 67 67 69 69 cm D 65 66 66 67 67 68 69 69 70 cm

M7390

FINISHED GARMENT MEASUREMENTS Measurement at bustline A, B, C, D 35∞ 36∞ 37∞ 39 41 Measurement at hipline A, C 37∞ 38∞ 39∞ 41 43 Width, lower edge A, C 38 39 40 41∞ 43∞ B, D 61 62 63 64∞ 66∞ Back length from base of neck A, B 27 27≤ 27∞ 27≥ 28 C 25 25≤ 25∞ 25≥ 26 D 25∞ 25≥ 26 26≤ 26∞

*Avec Sens **Sans Sens ***Avec ou Sans Sens *Con Pelillo **Sin Pelillo ***Con o Sin Pelillo

1

A

1

1

1

VIEW D

B

C

D

2

Copyright© 2016, The McCall Pattern Co., 120 Broadway, New York 10271, All Rights Reserved. Printed in U.S.A. Trademarks Reg. U.S. Pat. & TM Off. Marca Registrada Sold for individual home use only and not for commercial or manufacturing purposes. www.mccallpattern.com Reserve à un usage personnel. Utilisation commerciale ou industrielle strictement interdite.

M7390_ENV

M7390

SIZE/ TAILLE

A5/E5 ( 6 - 2 2 )

C B A D BODY MEASUREMENTS/MESURES/MEDIDAS DEL CUERPO SIZES/TAILLES/TALLAS 6 8 10 12 14 16 18 Bust 30∞ 31∞ 32∞ 34 36 38 40 Waist 23 24 25 26∞ 28 30 32 Hip 32∞ 33∞ 34∞ 36 38 40 42 Back Waist Length 15∞ 15≥ 16 16≤ 16∞ 16≥ 17 Poitrine/Busto 77 80 Taille/Cintura 58 61 Hanches/Caderas 83 85 Longueur dos/Largo espalda 39.5 40

83 87 92 64 67 71 88 92 97 40.5 41.5 42

20 22 42 44 Ins. 34 37 Ins. 44 46 Ins. 17≤ 17∞ Ins.

97 102 107 112 cm 76 81 87 94 cm 102 107 112 117 cm 42.5 43 44 44.5 cm

M7390

YELLOW MAGENTA CYAN BLACK

There's nothing nicer than a floaty viscose top!

Choose between the different lengths, sleeve styles and don't forget the pockets. Every Butterick pattern comes with a helpful step-by-step guide designed to push your sewing skills further

FLOAT GIFT Your free

MASTERCLASS

SEWING VISCOSE

VIEW C A smart top that feels great against your skin? View C is easy to tuck in if you leave off the pockets.

Working with fabric that can shift around as you sew may test your patience, but with our top tips for sewing with viscose and crepe, you can make sewing floaty fabric a breeze!

We used:

Tile Blue solids rayon, Art Gallery Fabrics. Visit www.hantex. co.uk/mystockist to find stockists of this specific fabric

WHAT IS VISCOSE? Viscose (also known as rayon in the US) is what is known as a man-made fibre rather than synthetic. It is actually derived from plant-based materials that go through a chemical washing process.

Often made of soy, bamboo or sugar cane, it was invented in the 1890s. The name viscose, from the word viscosity, comes from the thick liquid consistency of the fibres after treatment. Originally used to strengthen car tyres, it soon became woven into a fabric with similar properties to silk at a fraction of the cost.

Here are our top tips for working with this fabulous floaty fabric: 1 Always choose good-quality viscose that is not too loosely woven as this makes it easier to work with.

2 Prewash and press your fabric as rayon/viscose shrinks.

3 Viscose is not the easiest to sew with, so choose a simple sewing pattern style with fewer seams.

4 Use sharp scissors or a rotary cutter for cutting out.

5 Change your machine needle to a finer 70/12 size, and use fine, sharp pins.

6 Adjust your sewing machine tension and stitch length and try sewing the fabric with some smaller pieces before starting on the real garment, use a straight stitch.

7 For finishing the seams use a zigzag stitch or an overlocker.

8 Use soft, light interfacing so it doesn’t interfere with the gorgeous drape of the fabric but still holds the shape.

9 While sewing try not to pull or stretch the fabric, and when pressing carefully move the not-too-hot iron over the fabric without distorting it.

Subscribe today to get a

McCALL PATTERN CO. DESIGN IN YOUR SIZE WITH EVERY ISSUE! See page 26 for details

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Don't forget, the finished garment measurements are printed on the pattern tissue! This helps you pick the perfect size and consider how much ease you'd like in the finished top

We love!

on The high-low hem ay w View B is a great ge to get extra covera at the back

VIEW B & D

We love mixing and matching pattern options to create the perfect look! Try the high-low hem with a pair of sweet elastic-cuffed sleeves.

We used

Ice Pops textured crepe, ÂŁ11.50 per metre www.stoffstil.co.uk

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03/04/2018 16:27 M7547

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Jeans et salopettes JEANS ET SALOPETTES: jeans latérale à fermeture sous-patte, JEANS AND OVERALLS: Close-fitting fausse braguette devant, ouverture lapped zipper side moulants à Passants. C, D: Kit de boucle and overalls have faux fly front, et variations de jambe. A, B, C: variations. A, B, C: poche plaquée opening, patch pocket, and leg acheté pour salopette. buckle kit.

Y SEÑORAS: Jeans y overoles ceñiCarriers. C, D: Purchased overall JEANS Y OVEROLES PARA JÓVENES bolsilfrente, abertura lateral con cremallera, dos con bragueta simulada en el Kit de A, B, C: Presillas de correa. C, D: lo de parche y variaciones de pierna. hebilla comprada para overol.

E5(14-16-18-20-22) Séries/Combinaciones: A5(6-8-10-12-14), Tissus tissés extensibles, Twill, extensible, E5(14-16-18-20-22) TISSUS CONSEILLÉS: Denim Combinations: A5(6-8-10-12-14), Denim, Stretch Wovens, Twill, Denim.

Denim.

Twill, SUGGESTED FABRICS: Stretch extensible, Telas tejidas extensibles, TELAS SUGERIDAS: Denim Denim.

22 20 18 16 14 12 10 8 TAILLES/TALLAS 6 22 20 2.60 2.60 2.60 2.60 m 18 16 14 12 10 2.60 2.60 2.60 2.60 2.60 8 6 SIZES Yds. A 115cm* 2.20 2.30 2.30 2.40 m 2≥ 2≥ 2≥ 2≥ 1.90 1.90 1.90 1.90 2.20 2≥ 2≥ 2≥ 2≥ 2≥ 150cm* A 45"* " 2.40 2.40 2.40 2.40 m 2∑ 2∑ 2∞ 2∞ 2∫ 2 2 2.40 2.40 2.40 2.40 2.40 2 2 60"* Yds. B 115cm* 2.00 2.20 2.30 2.40 m 2∫ 2∫ 2∫ 2∫ 1.50 1.50 1.50 1.50 1.90 2∫ 2∫ 2∫ 2∫ 2∫ 150cm* B 45"* " 1.50 1.50 1.60 1.80 m 2∂ 2∑ 2∞ 2∫ 1.20 1.20 1.30 1.30 1.30 1∫ 1∫ 1∫ 1∫ 2 60"* Yds. C 115cm* 1.10 1.30 1.30 1.30 m 1∫ 1∫ 1≥ 1π 1.00 1.10 1.10 1.10 1.10 1≤ 1≤ 1∑ 1∑ 1∑ 150cm* C 45"* " 2.60 3.00 3.00 3.00 m 1∑ 1∑ 1∑ 2.60 2.60 2.60 2.60 2.60 1∂ 1∂ 1∂ 1∂ 1∂ 1 60"* Yds. D 115cm* 2.30 2.30 2.40 2.40 m 2≥ 3≤ 3≤ 3≤ 2.00 2.00 2.00 2.00 2.00 2≥ 2≥ 2≥ 2≥ 2≥ 150cm* B, C, D 45"* " 2∞ 2∞ 2∫ 2∫ TRETELA TERMOADHESIVA A, 2∂ 2∂ 2∂ 2∂ 2∂ ENTOILAGE THERMOCOLLANT/EN 60"* 1.10 1.20 1.20 1.30 m D 1.00 1.00 1.00 1.10 1.10 FUSIBLE INTERFACING A, B, C, Yds. D 46, 51cm 1∑ 1 Bouton de 16mm.

1∂ 1∂ 1∂ 1≤ 1≤ 1 Fermeture à glissière de 18cm, 1 1 18", 20" 1 Pair of MERCERIE: A, B, C, D: à boutons sans couture.

Zipper, One ∫" Button. C, D: One C, D: 1 paire de Boucles de salopette 1 par NOTIONS: A, B, C, D: One 7" de 18cm, 1 Botón de 16mm. C, D: MERCERÍA: A, B, C, D: 1 Cremallera Overall Buckles with No-sew Buttons. de aplicación sin costura. de Hebillas para overol con botones DE LA PRENDA ACABADA MESURES DU VÊTEMENT FINI/MEDIDAS de caderas Mesure aux hanches/Contorno 108 113 118 123 cm 103 98 94 92 89 A, B, C, D cada pierna Largeur, chaque jambe/Ancho, 64 cm 62 61 60 59 57 56 55 54 A, D 41 cm 40 38 37 36 34 33 32 31 B, C del costado desde la cintura Longueur - côté, taille à l’ourlet/Largo 107 107 107 107 cm 107 107 107 107 107 A, D 99 cm 99 99 99 99 99 99 99 99 B 33 cm 33 33 33 33 33 33 33 33 C FINISHED GARMENT MEASUREMENTS Measurement at hipline 48∞ 38∞ 40∞ 42∞ 44∞ 46∞ 37 36 A, B, C, D 35 Width, each leg 24∞ 25 23∞ 24 22∞ 23 21∞ 22 21 A, D 15∞ 16 14∞ 15 13∞ 14 12∞ 13 12 B, C Side length from waist 42 42 42 42 42 42 42 42 42 A, D 39 39 39 39 39 39 39 39 39 B 13 13 13 13 13 13 13 13 13 C

Say hello to Sam on Instagram & Twitter @sewnowmag Ins.

" " "

*Avec Sens **Sans Sens ***Avec

Pelillo ***Con o ou Sans Sens *Con Pelillo **Sin

Sin Pelillo

M7547

" "

or Without Nap *With Nap **Without Nap ***With

C

B A

C

B

A D

D

Marca Registrada Trademarks Reg. U.S. Pat. & TM Off. All Rights Reserved. Printed in U.S.A. Co., 120 Broadway, New York 10271, purposes. www.mccallpattern.com Copyright© 2017, The McCall Pattern not for commercial or manufacturing interdite.

Sold for individual home use only and commerciale ou industrielle strictement Reserve à un usage personnel. Utilisation

M7547_ENV

SIZE/ TAILLE

A5/E5 ( 6 - 2 2 )

D

In issue 53 Love Sewing columnist Kerry Green reviews M7547

DEL CUERPO BODY MEASUREMENTS/MESURES/MEDIDAS12 18 14 16 10 8 6 SIZES/TAILLES/TALLAS 40 36 38 30∞ 31∞ 32∞ 34 Bust 32 25 26∞ 28 30 23 24 Waist 42 38 40 32∞ 33∞ 34∞ 36 Hip 17 15∞ 15≥ 16 16≤ 16∞ 16≥ Back Waist Length 77 80 Poitrine/Busto 58 61 Taille/Cintura 83 85 Hanches/Caderas 40 Longueur dos/Largo espalda 39.5

92 83 87 71 64 67 97 88 92 40.5 41.5 42

22 20 44 Ins. 42 37 Ins. 34 46 Ins. 44 17≤ 17∞ Ins.

102 107 112 cm 97 94 cm 87 81 76 102 107 112 117 cm 44.5 cm 44 42.5 43

M7547

à à passer par la tête, et ourlet HAUTS: Hauts semi-ajustés, variations de linge d’ourlet tops have neckcoutures apparentes, Parementure TOPS: Semi-fitted, pullover hem. bande d’encolure, le fil de trame. A, B: variations, and narrow à pinces inférieures coupées sur ligne d’ourlet. C: Poches band, seam detail, hemline B: Bias étroit. A: Parties l’envers visible sur la on crosswise grain. A, bord inférieur des manches C: d’entournure en biais, A: Lower sections cut Pièce superposée devant, side shows on hemline. et ourlets piqués. D: armhole facing, wrong hems. D: Front overlay, acheté. para ponerse por trim. élastique et galon Darted pockets and stitched Y SEÑORAS: Tops semientallados, of sleeves, and purchased variaciones de línea de TOPS PARA JÓVENES elasticized lower edge de escote, costuras expuestas, cortadas sobre el hilo la cabeza, con banda superiores angosto. A: Secciones dobladillo y dobladillo visible en la línea de dobladillo. de sisa al sesgo, revés en el de la trama. A, B: Vista D: Pieza sobrepuesta y dobladillos angostos.

C: Bolsillos con pinzas ribete comprado. mangas con elástico y frente, borde inferior de 2) A5(6-8-10-12-14), E5(14-16-18-20-2 Chine.

Séries/Combinaciones: Toile de lin, Crêpe de Chambray, Cotonnade, , E5(14-16-18-20-22) TISSUS CONSEILLÉS: Linen, Crepe de Chine.

Broderie anglaise.

Combinations: A5(6-8-10-12-14) de China.

Contraste D: Dentelle, Chambray, Cotton Blends, algodón, Lino, Crepé Chambray, Mezclas de SUGGESTED FABRICS: TELAS SUGERIDAS: Broderie.

Contrast D: Lace, Eyelet.

22 20 18 Contraste D: Encaje, 16 12 14 10 8 m 2.20 TAILLES/TALLAS 6 1.80 1.90 1.90 2.20 1.60 1.60 1.60 1.80 1.60 m A 115cm*** 1.50 1.50 1.60 1.60 m 1.50 1.50 1.50 1.50 150cm*** 1.90 1.90 2.20 2.20 1.80 1.50 1.50 1.50 1.60 1.60 m B 115cm*** 1.30 1.60 1.60 1.60 1.30 1.30 1.30 1.30 2.10 m 150cm*** 1.90 1.90 2.10 2.10 1.60 1.60 1.80 1.80 1.60 m C 115cm*** 1.60 1.60 1.60 1.60 1.40 1.40 1.40 1.40 1.50 m 150cm*** 1.50 1.50 1.50 1.50 1.30 1.30 1.30 1.30 1.20 m D 115cm*** 1.10 1.10 1.20 1.20 1.10 1.10 1.10 1.10 150cm*** 1.50 m CONTRASTE 1D 1.20 1.30 1.40 1.50 1.20 1.20 1.20 1.20 1.20 m 115cm*** 1.20 1.20 1.20 1.20 1.20 1.20 1.20 1.20 150cm*** 150cm*** - 0.80m A, B, C, D CONTRASTE 2D - 115, T/ENTRETELA TERMOADHESIVA

M7390

22 20 18 16 14 12 10 8 6 2∑ 2∑ Yds. 2 SIZES 1π 2 " 1≥ 1≥ 1≥ 1≥ 1π A 45"*** 1∫ 1∫ 1≥ 1≥ 1∫ 1∫ 1∫ 1∫ 2∑ 2∑ Yds. 60"*** 2 1π 2 " 1≥ 1∫ 1∫ 1∫ 1≥ B 45"*** 1∑ 1≥ 1≥ 1≥ 1∑ 1∑ 1∑ 1∑ 60"*** 2≤ 2≤ 2≤ Yds. 2 2 " 1≥ 1≥ 1≥ 1π 1π C 45"*** 1≥ 1≥ 1≥ 1≥ 1∫ Yds. 1∞ 1∞ 1∞ 1∞ 60"*** 1∫ 1∫ 1∫ 1∫ " 1≤ 1∑ 1∑ 1∑ 1∑ D 45"*** 1∂ 1∂ 1≤ 1≤ 1∂ 1∂ 1∂ 1∂ 60"*** " 1∫ CONTRAST 1D 1≤ 1∑ 1∞ 1∫ " 1≤ 1≤ 1≤ 1≤ 1≤ 45"*** 1≤ 1≤ 1≤ 1≤ 1≤ 1≤ 1≤ 1≤ 60"***

MEASUREMENTS FINISHED GARMENT Measurement at bustline 41 37∞ 39 A, B, C, D 35∞ 36∞ Measurement at hipline 43 37∞ 38∞ 39∞ 41 A, C Width, lower edge 41∞ 43∞ 40 39 38 A, C 64∞ 66∞ 63 62 61 B, D of neck Back length from base 27≤ 27∞ 27≥ 28 27 A, B 25≤ 25∞ 25≥ 26 25 C 26≤ 26∞ 25∞ 25≥ 26 D Nap

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47

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Ins. "

" " "

28≤ 28∞ 28≥ 29 26≤ 26∞ 26≥ 27 27≤ 27∞ 26≥ 27

" "

45∞ 47∞ 49∞ 51∞ 68∞ 70∞ 72∞ 74∞

ENTOILAGE THERMOCOLLAN

46, 51cm - 0.50m de Élastique de 6mm. de Galon de 2.5cm, 0.50m de Elástico de 6mm.

MERCERIE: D: 1.40m de Ribete de 2.5cm, 0.50m PRENDA ACABADA MERCERÍA: D: 1.40m FINI/MEDIDAS DE LA MESURES DU VÊTEMENT o de busto cm Mesure à la poitrine/Contorn 109 115 120 125 93 95 99 104 90 A, B, C, D no de caderas cm Mesure aux hanches/Contor 100 104 109 115 120 125 130 98 95 A, C inferior cm Largeur à l’ourlet/Ancho 116 121 126 131 99 102 105 110 97 190 cm A, C 169 174 179 184 155 157 160 164 desde la nuca B, D l’ourlet/Largo de espalda cm 74 - dos, votre nuque à 73 72 72 69 70 71 71 cm 69 69 69 67 67 64 65 66 66 cm 64 70 69 69 68 66 66 67 67 65 ***Con o Sin Pelillo

Longueur A, B C D

*Avec Sens **Sans Sens

***Avec ou Sans Sens

M7390

60"*** - π yd.

CONTRAST 2D - 45", A, B, C, D FUSIBLE INTERFACING 18", 20" - ∞ yd.

Elastic. of 1" Trim, ∞ yd. of ≤" NOTIONS: D: 1∞ yds.

The top came together quickly and easily and the instructions were clear and straightforward.

The neckline was the only part I found tricky to sew, but this was due to my very straight shoulders!

Adjusting the shoulders meant also having to adjust the neckline.

It took a few attempts, but as I did I noticed how simple it would be to extend one of the opening ends of the pattern piece by about 5cm to create a button tab over the front opening. I’ll definitely do this when I sew the top again.

*Con Pelillo **Sin Pelillo

***With or Without *With Nap **Without Nap

1

1

1

1

D

2

C

B

A

Copyright© 2016, The McCall

& TM Off. Marca Registrada Trademarks Reg. U.S. Pat. Reserved. Printed in U.S.A. New York 10271, All Rights www.mccallpattern.com Pattern Co., 120 Broadway, or manufacturing purposes. use only and not for commercial industrielle strictement interdite.

Sold for individual home Utilisation commerciale ou Reserve à un usage personnel.

M7390_ENV

T

SIZE/ TAILLE

A5/E5 ( 6 - 2 2 )

A B C YELLOW MAGENTA CYAN BLACK

Another small tweak I made was to the arm facings, which I folded double, attached at the armhole then pressed out as a band. The pattern instructions ask for these to be turned under, but I liked the striped effect created when they were turned out, so simply left them as they were!

ops are always high on my list of garments to sew, so I didn’t need much persuading to review McCall’s 7390!

I instantly liked the striped version on the envelope and used this as the inspiration for my version. I was looking for a top that would go with jeans, and chose Version A as I liked the sleeveless, semi-fitted style. My beautiful-quality pastel striped shirting cotton from www.fabworks.com is only £4.99 per metre. It definitely complements the symmetry of the pattern lines and has a fun, summery feel.

M7390

A

M7547

To get a perfect CF seam with equal stripes each side I pre-pressed my seam allowance before sewing it together, creating a clear line to sew along. By then turning the panel out and pressing the seam I could double check the stitching line before going any further. If you’re using an all-over pattern or plain fabric this won’t be a problem.

Overall this top is a breeze to sew, gives lots of opportunity to be creative when mix and matching fabric and has a lovely fit. It’s definitely filled a gap in my summer wardrobe!

Laying out the pattern pieces proved to be a challenge, as the striped fabric meant any mishaps with cutting would easily show, particularly on the lower front panels, which are cut on the cross grain. I carefully planned where to position my pattern pieces to get the best combination of colours.

C B D

DEL CUERPO S/MESURES/MEDIDAS 18 14 16 BODY MEASUREMENT 10 12 8 6 40 36 38 SIZES/TAILLES/TALLAS 30∞ 31∞ 32∞ 34 32 Bust 25 26∞ 28 30 23 24 42 38 40 Waist 32∞ 33∞ 34∞ 36 16∞ 16≥ 17 Hip 15∞ 15≥ 16 16≤ Back Waist Length 102 92 97 83 87 77 80 81 71 76 Poitrine/Busto 64 67 58 61 97 102 107 Taille/Cintura 88 92 83 85 43 Hanches/Caderas 40.5 41.5 42 42.5 39.5 40 Longueur dos/Largo espalda

Sam Sterken, Editor of Sew Now magazine, shares her version of this issue’s McCall's free gift

22 20 44 Ins. 42 37 Ins. 34 46 Ins. 44 17≤ 17∞ Ins. 107 112 cm 94 cm 87 112 117 cm 44.5 cm 44

M7390

YELLOW MAGENTA CYAN

BLACK

eview eader R7390 RMcCall's

V9295 Vintage VogueÂŽ

Available from fabric stores and websites countrywide.

Or visit www.sewdirect.com

Spring Blossoms LS52.P22.indd 22 Vogue Patterns advertisement Love Sewing Issue 52.indd 1

28/03/2018 27/03/2018 14:11 11:58

This month 1'm making

Samantha used floral-print brushed cotton and viscose , £3.99 per metre www.minervacrafts.com

Samantha celebrates her love of vintage styles with a staple dress! Join Sam's crafty tea parties at www.crafternoonteahostess.co.uk and see her gorgeous makes at www.crafternoonteas.com

W

ith spring on our doorsteps, my wardrobe needs a stylish floral dress with a little vintage twist. Vogue 8875 jumped out to me for the gorgeous hourglass 50s silhouette and the cap-sleeve design. The sleeve is shaped through inserting panels and darts instead of a conventional sleeve piece. If you don’t like fitting sleeves this is the dress for you!

THE MINERVA CRAFTS BLOGGER NETWORK The Minerva Crafts Blogger Network is a collection of amazing sewing and craft bloggers from across the world. Every month each blogger creates a unique kit from the thousands of gorgeous fabrics and notions available at Minerva Crafts. They wow us with their makes every month by blogging a project made with their kit on the network. There are new projects going live daily to inspire and educate sewists of all levels and abilities.

Each blogger's unique kits are available to buy at www.minervacrafts.com

I chose this fabric for its beautiful large printed floral design. I had seen similar prints on the high street and online – it had a Boden/Joules feel to it and I just loved it! The fabric’s slight brush and feminine drapability made it perfect for my make.

I used 3m of fabric for the dress and it took me three evenings to create. A ballpoint size 80 needle helped avoid thread pulls. This was a relative quick make and very satisfying to sew.

There's a 16” zipper (just like my Gran’s retro makes) and pleats around the waist to create a tulip skirt. I always think that adding a full zipper through a separate bodice and skirt and matching the darts can be a little challenge, but the sewing satisfaction when it all fits together is worth the time tacking and easing everything in place.

The design had two details that I had not created before and I now love. The first was reinforced underarm seams, where you add a square of fabric to create a stronger seam and reduce stress.

Samantha says

The sewing satisfaction when it all fits together is worth the time!

Learn to install a waist stay with Vogue 8875, vintage dress pattern from 1955

Although this detail looks a little scary, if you match your notches and tack well it all falls into place. I also loved the vintage waist stay; using grosgrain ribbon and a hook and eye, this inner belt pulls in the hourglass shape a treat! You can also make a separate self-fabric belt for the dress, but I decided to use a black belt I had in my wardrobe. The brushed nature of my fabric would have gone bobby quickly if I have used it for a belt.

I chose a size 12 and, after fitting the bodice, I took the side panels in 3cm each side but nothing on the skirt. I took 20cm off the hem to create a kneelength skirt. It’s a shame there aren't models on the pattern front image so you can see how it fits. The illustration is lovely but I hope my review will help you sew yours.

This is the perfect spring dress. It’s so comfy to wear and practical, with a dash of vintage style.

I will definitely make this for the summer in a lighter fabric.

www.lovesewingmag.co.uk 23

LS52.P23.indd 23

03/04/2018 14:30

The Dressmaker's With Elisalex

I

'll be honest, selfless sewing is not my favourite. Not because I’m mean or selfish or want to keep my sewing skills all to myself. In fact, generally speaking, I’m a kind, considerate and empathetic person who thoroughly enjoys teaching others the joy of sewing. But despite all my redeeming qualities, I often have to defend myself against accusations of sewing selfishness to my close friends and family! This makes me feel sad and guilty, like I’m depriving them of something only I can benefit from, which in turn leads me to question why it is that I rarely think to sew for the people I love. Maybe it is precisely because, being a mother, so much of my life is spent doing things for other people that I like to keep the sewing all for myself. Maybe it’s because I run my own business and I’ve become used to doing things for myself, and on my own terms. Maybe it just straight up sucks to spend time making something beautiful only to give it away… Regardless of the reasons why I’m a selfish sewist, I do feel bad sometimes that I hardly ever make things for anyone else, and I’d like to work on that. And it seems I’m not alone – Lisa Comfort of Sew Over It declared April to be 'selfless sewing month' after realising her own wardrobe needed a break.

DIARY

Let Elisalex inspire you to try some selfless sewing with her quick and fun project ideas The Ogden camisole pattern from True Bias is so quick you best make yourself one at the same time!

In order to make time for more selfless sewing in my life, I’ve realised I have to find a way to make it more appealing to me. I need to start seeing it as an opportunity, giving the concept of selfless sewing credible meaning and reason, more than just for the sake of giving (I’ve tried that and sadly it just isn’t enough to get me going!).

24 www.lovesewingmag.co.uk

24 Dressmakers.indd 24

03/04/2018 17:08

Liesl Gibson's adorable book features great gifts for little people in your life

MY ME-MADE WARDROBE CAN ONLY TAKE SO MUCH AT A TIME

Like Lisa, I am increasingly aware of the rate at which I sew. If I were buying as many clothes in as short a period of time as I am sewing, it would be considered a full-blown shopping addiction. However, since I’m lovingly making the clothes myself, and it’s part of my job, it’s considered productive. Maybe occasional selfless sewing will help control my bulging wardrobe. I still get to hone my skills and do what I love – scratching the itch, if you will – but instead what I make can live at someone else’s house. In the interest of keeping my wardrobe population manageable, this factor could be a real motivator for me.

THE ISSUE OF PERFECTIONISM

Second to not getting to keep what I’ve made, the other thing holding me back is perfectionism. When I know that what I’m making will be in someone else’s possession for them to inspect and judge to their heart’s content, I become way more obsessed with perfection than if I were making for myself.

I’m afraid I don’t really have a solution to this problem other than accepting and embracing it. Encouraging it even. The way I’m seeing it now, the more I strive for perfection, the better my overall sewing skills will become and the less sloppy the finish will be on clothes I make for me!

STASH-BUSTING BENEFITS

Like most sewists, I have a fairly unruly fabric stash and I know I’m not the only one who has fabric I loved and bought years ago, that no longer tickles my fancy.

I certainly don’t want to throw or give them away, but I also know that I won’t be wanting to wear them anytime soon. This is where selfless sewing comes in.

The Grainline Stowe bag pattern includes multiple size options

IDEAL PROJECTS FOR SELFLESS SEWING

In order to be an enjoyable and successful selfless sew, your project must tick the following three boxes: quick to sew, stash busting, crowd pleasing. I’ve rounded up some suggestions that meet the above criteria and sorted them into categories so you don’t have to. You’re welcome!

GIRLFRIENDS AND FEMALE FAMILY MEMBERS True Bias Ogden cami – less than a metre, under two hours to make and really just the perfect vest. So good you’d be wise to make one for yourself at the same time!

Grainline Studio Stowe bag – the smaller ones make the ultimate gift for anyone who knits or crafts, while the larger option is really the cream of the handmade crop when it comes to beautiful totes for weekly farmers' market trips.

Turn our make-up pouch on page 36 into a multipurpose boxy pouch perfect for a gift

Megan Nielsen Acacia underwear – if you’ve never made a pair of knickers before, prepare to be amazed at how quick and easy it really is!

Sarah Kirsten Willow washbag – an absolute classic. I batch-sewed a bunch of similar washbags a few Christmases ago and they went down a treat.

24 Dressmakers.indd 25

KIDS AND BABIES Whole cut crib quilt – at 60x45”, all you need is a little over 1m each of two contrasting/complementary fabrics (one for the top, one for the back; natural fibres only for little ones!), some quilt wadding and binding. It will be surprisingly quick to assemble and you can pour your creativity in the quilting design.

Top tip!

DADS, BROTHERS, BOYFRIENDS With Father’s Day approaching, here are three fail-safe makes that are fun to sew and sure to be well received by the men in your life.

Thread Theory Patterns don't just produce great menswear designs; we love their bag & wallet kits too

A Thread Theory wallet – with three different styles to choose from, these wallets are no-fuss, clean-construction, stash-busting perfection. And if you’ve never sewn with leather before this is the perfect project to try!

Sew Over It Tie Kit – this is a simple make but one that will satisfy your own nerdy urges as tie making employs some interesting techniques and just the right amount of hand stitching.

Anything from the Oliver + S Little Things to Sew book – especially the reversible bucket hat; I made a new one of those every summer for my boy when he was little.

A tutu skirt – I’d go as far as to add this one to the Girlfriends and Female Family Members list as well! A metre of pretty floral fabric underlined in a couple of layers of net, gathered at the waist and elasticated. Done and dusted!

ABOUT ELISALEX Elisalex de Castro Peake is the head of design and co-founder of

By Hand London. An independent pattern company, it produces gorgeously designed, high-quality patterns that are available as PDF downloads through the site www.byhandlondon.com

03/04/2018 17:08

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03/04/2018 17:09

SAVE money on every issue FREE delivery direct to your door NEVER miss an issue BE THE FIRST to read Love Sewing FREE pattern worth over £8 from The McCall Pattern company with every issue Exclusive promise to offer BRANDED PATTERNS in the widest size range The BEST tutorials and projects from industry experts including Wendy Gardiner and Alison Smith MBE BUILD your ultimate pattern collection NEVER be short of sewing inspiration again SPREAD the COST with a Direct Debit M7390

10 9 8 7 6 5

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1

TOPS: Semi-fitte d, pullover tops have neckband, seam detail, HAUTS: Hauts semi-ajus hemline variations , and narrow hem.

A: Lower sections tés, à passer par bande d’encolure cut on crosswise la tête, à , coutures apparente grain. A, B: Bias armhole facing, wrong side shows étroit. A: Parties s, variations de inférieures coupées linge d’ourlet et Darted pockets ourlet and stitched hems. on hemline. C: d’entournure en biais, l’envers visible sur le fil de trame. A, B: Parement D: Front overlay, elasticized lower edge of sleeves, ure et ourlets sur la ligne piqués. d’ourlet. and D: purchase C: Pièce Poches à pinces superposée devant, d trim. élastique et galon acheté. bord inférieur des manches TOPS PARA JÓVENES la cabeza, con banda Y SEÑORAS: Tops semiental lados, para ponerse por dobladillo y dobladillo de escote, costuras expuestas, variaciones angosto. A: Seccione de la trama. A, B: s superiores cortadas de línea de Vista de sisa al sesgo, sobre el hilo C: Bolsillos con revés visible en la Combinations: A5(6-8-10 pinzas y dobladillo línea de dobladillo s angostos. D: frente, borde inferior .

SUGGESTED FABRICS -12-14), E5(14-16-18-20-22) Pieza sobrepuesta de mangas con en el : Chambray, Cotton elástico y ribete Contrast D: Lace, Séries/Co comprado.

Blends, Linen, Crepe Eyelet. de Chine. TISSUS mbinaciones: A5(6-8-10-12-14), E5(14-16-18-20-22 CONSEILLÉS: ) Contraste D: Dentelle, Chambray, Cotonnade, Toile de lin, Crêpe de Broderie anglaise.

SIZES Chine.

TELAS SUGERID 6 8 AS: 10 12 A 45"*** 14 Contraste D: Encaje, Chambray, Mezclas de algodón, 16 1≥ 1≥ 1≥ 18 20 Lino, Crepé de China.

Broderie.

22 1π 1π 2 60"*** TAILLES/TALLAS 1∫ 1∫ 1∫ 2 2∑ 2∑ Yds. 6 8 1∫ 1∫ 1∫ 10 12 14 B 45"*** A 115cm*** 1∫ 1∫ 1∫ 1≥ 1≥ 1≥ 16 18 1.60 1.60 1.60 20 1≥ 1π 2 22 " 1.80 1.80 1.90 60"*** 150cm*** 1∑ 1∑ 2 2∑ 1.90 1.50 1∑ 2∑ 2.20 1.50 1∑ Yds. 2.20 1.50 C 45"*** 1∑ 1≥ 1≥ m 1.50 1.50 1.50 B 115cm*** 1≥ 1≥ 1π 1≥ 1≥ 1.60 1.60 1.60 1.50 1.50 1.50 1π 2 " m 1.60 1.80 1.90 60"*** 150cm*** 2 1∞ 1∞ 2≤ 2≤ 1.90 1.30 1∞ 2≤ 2.20 1.30 1∞ Yds. 2.20 1.30 D 45"*** 1≥ 1≥ 1≥ m 1.30 1.30 1.60 C 115cm*** 1∑ 1∑ 1∑ 1≥ 1≥ 1.60 1.60 1.60 1.60 1.60 1.80 1∑ 1∫ 1∫ " m 1.80 1.90 1.90 60"*** 150cm*** 1∂ 1∫ 1∂ 1∫ 2.10 1.40 1∂ 1∫ 2.10 1.40 1∂ 1∂ 1∂ Yds. 2.10 m 1.40 1.40 1.60 CONTRAST 1D D 115cm*** 1≤ 1≤ 1≤ 1.60 1.60 1.60 1.30 1.30 1.30 1.60 m " 1.30 1.50 1.50 45"*** 150cm*** 1≤ 1≤ 1≤ 1.50 1.50 1.50 1.10 1.10 1.10 1≤ 1≤ 1∑ m 1.10 1.10 1.10 60"*** CONTRASTE 1D 1≤ 1≤ 1≤ 1∞ 1∫ 1∫ 1.20 1.20 1.20 1≤ 1≤ 1≤ " CONTRAST 2D m 115cm*** 1≤ 1≤ 1≤ - 45", 1.20 1.20 1.20 " FUSIBLE INTERFA 60"*** - π yd.

1.20 1.20 1.30 150cm*** CING A, B, C, D 1.40 1.50 1.50 1.20 1.20 1.20 m 18", 20" - ∞ yd.

1.20 1.20 1.20 CONTRASTE 2D 1.20 1.20 1.20 - 115, NOTIONS: D: 1∞ m ENTOILAGE THERMOC 150cm*** - 0.80m yds. of 1" Trim, ∞ OLLANT/ENTRETEL yd. of ≤" Elastic.

46, 51cm A TERMOAD 0.50m HESIVA A, B, C, D FINISHED GARMEN MERCERIE: D: 1.40m de Galon T MEASUREMENTS Measurement de 2.5cm, 0.50m MERCER ÍA: at de bustline D: Élastique 1.40m de Ribete de 2.5cm, de 6mm.

A, B, C, D 35∞ MESURES DU VÊTEME 0.50m de Elástico 36∞ 37∞ 39 NT FINI/MEDIDAS de 6mm.

Measurem 41 Mesure 43 ent DE à 45 la at LA poitrine/C hipline PRENDA 47 49 ontorno de busto ACABADA Ins. A, C A, B, C, D 37∞ 38∞ 39∞ 90 41 Width, lower edge 43 Mesure aux hanches/ 93 95 99 104 109 45 47 49 115 120 125 51 Contorno de caderas " A, C cm A, C 38 39 95 40 98 100 104 41∞ 43∞ B, D Largeur 45∞ 109 61 à 47∞ 115 l’ourlet/A 62 49∞ 51∞ 120 125 130 ncho inferior 63 64∞ 66∞ 68∞ " Back length from cm A, C 70∞ 72∞ 74∞ base of neck 97 99 102 105 " A, B B, D 110 27 116 27≤ 27∞ 27≥ 121 126 131 155 157 160 C 28 cm 164 Longueur - dos, 28≤ 28∞ 28≥ 25 25≤ 25∞ 25≥ votre nuque à l’ourlet/L169 174 179 184 190 29 " D 26 cm A, B 26≤ 26∞ 26≥ argo de espalda 25∞ 25≥ 26 69 27 desde la nuca 69 70 71 26≤ 26∞ 26≥ " C *With Nap **Without 71 27 72 27≤ 27∞ 72 Nap ***With or Without 64 73 64 65 66 74 " cm D Nap 66 67 67 65 69 66 66 67 69 cm 67 *Avec Sens **Sans 68 69 69 Sens ***Avec ou 70 cm Sans Sens *Con

Date

4

Reference Bank/Building Society account number

10 REASONS TO SUBSCRIBE: M7390

Pelillo **Sin Pelillo

***Con o Sin Pelillo

1

1

A B

LS52.P26-27.indd 26

I DO want Practical Publishing Int Ltd to contact me by email telephone post Tick this box if you wish to receive promotional material from carefully selected third-party companies *Your first 3 issues are just £6. Your Direct Debit will then automatically increase to just £18.35 every 3 months. Not sure if Love Sewing is for you? We’ll refund you for any unmailed issues should you wish to cancel at anytime. Offer applies to UK customers only. For overseas rates please visit www.moremags.com/subscriptions. New subscriptions start at the next available issue. Hurry offer expires 10/05/2018.

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Copyright© 2016, The

120 Broadway, New York 10271, All Rights Sold for individual Reserved. Printed home use only and in U.S.A. Trademarks not for commercia Reg. U.S. Pat. & TM Reserve à un usage l or manufacturing Off. Marca Registrada personnel. Utilisation purposes. www.mcca commerciale ou industrielle llpattern.com strictement interdite.

To: The Manager

Name and full postal address of your Bank or Building Society:

Instruction to your Bank or Building Society to pay by Direct Debit C SIZE/ TAILLE

M7390_ENV

A5/E5 ( 6 - 2 2 )

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BODY MEASUR EMENTS/MESURE S/MEDIDAS DEL SIZES/TAILLES/TA CUERPO LLAS 6 8 Bust 10 12 14 16 18 30∞ 31∞ 32∞ 20 Waist 22 34 36 38 40 23 24 42 Hip 44 Ins. 25 26∞ 28 30 32 32∞ 33∞ 34∞ 34 Back Waist Length 37 Ins. 36 38 40 42 15∞ 15≥ 16 44 46 Ins. 16≤ 16∞ 16≥ 17 17≤ 17∞ Ins. 77 80 83 87 92 97 102 107 112 58 61 64 67 cm 71 76 81 83 85 87 94 cm 88 92 97 102 107 espalda 39.5 40 112 117 cm 40.5 41.5 42 42.5 43 44 44.5 cm

ADDRESS: .....................................................................................................................

Poitrine/Busto Taille/Cintura Hanches/Caderas Longueur dos/Largo

M7390

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We love

HOME

Hit the

BRICKS This scrap-friendly project is also ideal for jelly roll strips! Whatever prints you choose to mix, we're sure you'll have sweet dreams Project KATY JONES

MATERIALS & TOOLS: • variety of scraps from cotton print fabric or jelly roll strips (each scrap must measure at least 2½x10”), you need enough scraps to yield the cutting list below • 22x31” plain cotton or cotton muslin/calico lining fabric • 2 20½x18” pieces cotton for envelope backing • 22x31” cotton or cotton-blend wadding • standard-size bed pillow

CUTTING: Cut the scraps or jelly roll strips into: • 30 2½x10” strips and 10 2½x5¼”strips

NOTES: All seams are ¼” unless otherwise stated Finished size: approximately 20½x29½” (fits standard UK pillow)

Top tip

Use this technique to make a smaller square cushion, or perhaps a co-ordinating bedspread!

HOW TO MAKE:

Shopping list Sundance collection, by Beth Studley, Makower UK. See www.makoweruk.com/retailers to find your local stockist

1 Cut your pieces and arrange into 10 alternating rows of A and B. Start with Row A, which has three 10” strips. Row B consists of a 5¼” strip, two 10” strips and a 5¼” strip. Keep an eye on placement to ensure you don’t have colours grouping together and there are no strips of the same fabric next to each other. Refer to the photo as a guide to placement. Repeat with rows

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MASTERCLASS

WALKING FEET A walking foot is a great investment for your sewing machine. Katy Jones shares why and explains how to attach one to your machine Although they seem costly, walking feet are worth their weight in gold when sewing bulky layers when making quilts or bags (or even sewing thick fabric like wool or denim).

Universal walking feet are available at a lower cost to fit the majority of machines but most machine manufacturers sell them to fit their own machines.

A quick online search for your make of machine and 'walking foot' will bring up the best one for you!

HOW TO ATTACH: Start by moving the needle to the highest position and raising the presser foot lever.

Remove the foot currently on your machine.

Use a screwdriver to remove the presser foot adapter and set it to one side.

Position the walking foot on the shank.

If your walking foot has a moveable lever this should

A, then B until you have a total of 10 rows.

Sew the strips end to end and press the seams in alternating directions (rows A to one side, rows B to the opposite side).

Once the rows are sewn and pressed, sew the rows to each other, taking care to alternate Row A, then B, then A and so on.

Once sewn up, press well.

Make a quilt sandwich with the lining fabric, the wadding and the patchwork piece and use spray baste or pins to hold

be placed ABOVE the needle clamp when attached.

backing, RS facing down, with the hemmed edge towards the centre of the patchwork, matching up the raw edges of the envelope backing with the raw edges of the patchwork.

Lay the second hemmed piece on top, but from

the opposite edge, so the hemmed edges overlap. Pin well all the way around.

Sew around the edge of the cushion, securing the envelope backing to the patchwork. Turn the cushion cover right way out and stuff with a pillow.

If your walking foot has a moveable prong the needle clamp should sit INSIDE the prongs when attached.

Line up the hole in the foot with the hole in the shank and reattach the screw that you removed earlier.

If you wish to attach a metal quilting guide to the foot, slide it into the back to the desired position.

the layers together. Quilt using a walking foot and a slightly longer stitch length. We used the side of the walking foot as a guide and quilted each side of the longer seams.

Once quilted, trim the threads and square up the patchwork, removing excess lining fabric and wadding.

Prepare the envelope back by hemming one of the 20½� sides of each backing piece.

Press well.

Lay the quilted patchwork right side up on a flat surface, lay the first hemmed envelope

Katy says...

The generous size is perfect to use as a statement pillow on a bed or sofa (or for taking a little nap!)

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PATTERN

SAVE on your new wardrobe!

We’re offering 50% OFF the following gorgeous designs from The McCall Pattern Company. Build your new collection with these 10 fabulous styles!

Wear the trousers

McCall’s 7726 is a high-waisted style but loose fitting through the hip to create a modern silhouette. Make in a print for bold statement trousers.

Available in sizes 6-22 in one envelope.

RRP £9.25

HOW TO CLAIM

Grab your jacket!

Designed by the Palmer/Pletsch team, McCall’s 7694 includes eye-catching features such as welt pockets, moto-style zipper and metal hardware. Why not try a bright-coloured leather version? Available in sizes 6-14 and 14-22. RRP £9.25

Save 50% on these selected McCall's patterns with code LOVESEWING52 when you call 0344 880 1263 before 11th May 2018.

Offer not available online, P&P charges still apply

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SAVE

50% on every pattern on these pages

Walk the line

Maxi skirts are instant leg lengtheners and McCall’s 6966 is a great jersey staple for summer. Add a twist by playing with your stripe placement or try the high-low hem variation that's included. Available in sizes XSM-MED and LRG-XXL. RRP £9.25

Dress the part

Another Palmer/Pletsch design, McCall’s 7628 is a beautiful throw-on-and-look -great tunic dress with a bonus top version included. Available in sizes 4-12 and 12-20.

RRP £9.25

Statement sleeves

The star of McCall's 7687 is the gorgeous bell-sleeve view, but this pattern has more to offer with frills, ruffles and vents all creatively added to seams and sleeves.

Available in sizes 6-14 and 14-22. RRP £9.25

Easy & breezy

We’re in love with McCall’s 7721 with its floaty silhouette, keyhole neckline and different sleeve and length options that you can mix and match for your perfect design. This pattern is available in sizes XS-XL in one envelope. RRP £9.25

Twirlability guaranteed

If you're looking for a skirt with excellent sway, try McCall’s 7129. We love the biasbound edges of the flared version and the chic pencil skirt options included. Available in sizes 8-16 and 16-24. RRP £9.25

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Sew adorable

McCall's 7677 is a mustsew pattern pack if you love making for the little ones in your life.

Essential leggings are paired with four styles of modern drop hem top. Available in sizes NB-XLRG all in one envelope.

YOUR NEW WARDROBE:

RRP £9.25

Start at the top

The sewing world is going jersey crazy at the minute and we love it! Rock the cold-shoulder look with McCall's 7722, a fun take on a classic T-shirt or add statement shoulders with the other views. Available in sizes 6-22 all in one envelope. RRP £9.25

Instant outfit

Not forgetting the men! McCall’s 6973 is a great multi-garment pattern pack for a Henley-style tee, sleeveless vest and cargo shorts in two lengths. Follow the tips for working with stripes and learn to add bellows pockets! This is a great option for some Father's Day sewing too. Available in sizes SML-LRG and XLG-XXXL. RRP £9.25

Browse and buy more patterns at www.sewdirect.com 32 www.lovesewingmag.co.uk

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Request your free fabric catalogue today!

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29/03/2018 16:49

D S N I AM H E BE E S TH

ALWAYS

With Wendy Ward

learning

Discover creative ways to keep learning whether you prefer to practise in a group or work on your own

M

aybe you’ve just embarked on your sewing journey or maybe it’s always been a part of your life.

Whichever camp you’re in, there’s always something still to learn. I don’t think anyone can know everything; there will still be a different way to do something, a new gadget to master, or a new technique to try. I’ve been sewing since I was 12, starting with books at home, a wonderful Textiles teacher at school, followed by a fashion degree and seven years working in the industry before I began teaching in 2007. However, I’m always learning and what I love about my students is they bring me challenging new projects that they want to try, new patterns they’ve found and a never-ending list of fitting issues.

The day I think I know it all will be the day I’ve become bored and need to stop!

There have never been so many ways to up your game and learn new creative skills.

But which method is the best for you? We don’t all learn in the same way and what might be good for your friend might not be best for you.

GROUP LEARNING

If you lack motivation and/or time to devote to your learning, doing it in a group is ideal. The habit of putting time aside to do something with others is a great discipline and one you’ll be far less likely to break. Group learning can also be great for learners who aren’t confident in their abilities, and it’s the perfect way to share inspiration with like-minded folk.

Here are the most popular ways to learn in a group:

Learning in a group is a great way to boost your confidence

FAMILIES Many people ask a sewing or crafting relative to teach them! This is a rewarding way to learn (and to spend time with relatives!) and also often results in you owning a wonderful archive of handmade heirloom items from your family.

Make sure you check the credentials of your independent sewing teacher – contrary to popular belief teaching isn’t easy (although to teach badly is very easy) and some level of teacher training alongside professional experience in a related sewing or fashion industry job makes for the best teachers.

CLASSES/ADULT EDUCATION A traditional route for learning a new skill (or brushing up an old neglected one) is through adult evening classes. And there's always the option to turn to the ever-growing numbers of independent sewing schools and teachers.

COMMUNITY GROUPS Social sewing groups are perfect if you want time and space to practise with a group of like-minded people. Groups often meet in village halls, community centres and church halls where there's lots of lovely space for cutting fabric and stretching out! Don’t

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Image by Craftsy.com

ABOUT WENDY WARD I design my own range of easy-to-follow modern sewing patterns called MIY Collection.

I am a qualified teacher and also have a degree in fashion.

I spent seven years working in the fashion industry before starting to teach dressmaking in 2011 from my own studio called MIY Workshop in Brighton. I have written two books about dressmaking and my third book A Beginner’s Guide to Sewing With Knitted Fabrics is out now! www.wendyward.co.uk www.miycollection.com www.miyworkshop.co.uk

Craftsy offers a range of online classes

mistake sewing groups for classes though; you’ll probably pick up tips and inspiration but they’re rarely led by a teacher. For guaranteed learning look for a group with regular guest tutors or speakers.

then these are great value-for-money resources and there are now huge numbers of really inspiring titles out there, many with a fresh, modern take on traditional hobbies.

WEEKEND WORKSHOPS/RETREATS Workshops are a great way to spend a day or two trying out a new skill or technique, an easier way to dip your toe in the water to see if you like something before committing yourself to a longer course.

Recent years have seen US-style retreats becoming more popular. Some retreats offer a 'community sewing experience' where you just take along your current project and enjoy the company. If you want to actually learn something, choose the ones that are focused on one project or have a selection of recognised tutors offering mini workshops.

GOING SOLO

If you’re a very motivated learner and like to move at your own pace and do your own thing, the many solo learning options now available will probably suit you best.

With my latest book it's like we're learning together at your house!

BLOGS Most independent pattern designers have their own blogs, usually packed with useful resources such as tutorials and sew-alongs for their patterns. Follow blogs using a reading app such as Bloglovin’ or have a look for sewing tutorials on Pinterest and follow the links back to the original blog.

ONLINE SEWING COMMUNITIES Instagram and Twitter each have huge and very active sewing communities and form a wonderful hive mind on which you can call for help, tips and opinions on everything from which sewing machine to buy to which buttons to choose for your latest make. Try searching a few sewing-related hashtags such as #sewcialists #sewistsofinstagram #isew #diydressmaker #memadeeveryday #handmadewardrobe – it’s like having lots of sewing friends in your pocket! Facebook groups are another valuable support network offering help and feedback on your makes.

Try the Love Sewing Facebook group!

YOUTUBE If you prefer listening to and watching someone rather than reading through a blog post, YouTube is crammed full of useful sewing tutorials. A word of warning here – check out the credentials of the vlogger – I’ve lost count of how many of my students who have 'learned' how to do something from a random tutorial on YouTube and have basically learned how to do it completely wrong!

ONLINE CLASSES Craftsy hosts a mind-boggling array of creative classes on everything from fitting to working with different fabric and making specific garments. It's perfect if you want to focus on a particular garment or technique with your sewing as you’re likely to find just the niche class you want here. Creativebug is another great place to look for inspiring classes taught by well-known designers and makers. More and more independent pattern designers are also starting to host their own online classes, usually they will involve you making one of their patterns which is ideal if that’s what you want to make!

BOOKS AND MAGAZINES I find these most useful once I’ve been taught some basics face to face. If you’re happy following instructions (a bit like me with recipes – I don’t like to deviate or improvise!),

Over the years I’ve realised how I learn best and can now tailor my new learning to meet my needs. Maybe you’ll also need to try out a few things and get a feel for what works best for you. Enjoy your journey!

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We love

BAGS

Kiss and

MAKE-UP This boxy pouch has endless options for how to use it. We love the idea of a functional but pretty cosmetic pouch Project DEBBIE VON GRABLERCROZIER The Folk Art Factory

NOTES: MATERIALS & TOOLS: • 35cm strip printed denim • 35cm strip co-ordinating lining • 35cm strip Vlieseline H630 fusible wadding • 35cm strip Vlieseline Style-Vil foam interfacing • 41cm co-ordinating zip • tan leather scraps (30x2.5cm plus a smaller piece for a label) • manual die-cutting machine & oval die (optional) • stamp of your choice (optional) • Jet Black Ranger Archival Ink • black & white twine • co-ordinating thread • fabric glue • templates downloaded from www.lovesewingmag.co.uk

Seam allowances are all 0.5cm unless otherwise stated

FINISHED SIZE: Approximately 20cm (L) x 12cm (W) x 15cm (D)

Top tip

Why not make one out of bright printed oilcloth or waxed canvas so it's easy to wipe clean and water resistant ?

HOW TO MAKE: 1 Make the handle with two 2.5x30cm pieces of leather.

Place them suede sides together and glue to keep them secure. Top-stitch with co-ordinating thread along each long side.

2 To make the leather label, cut an oval from the scrap and stamp it with your chosen image using black ink.

3 Fuse the H630 to the back of the outer fabric. (It is better to do this before cutting out.)

To avoid waste, trim the fabric and the wadding slightly larger than the template.

Use the template to cut two pieces of interfaced outer and two pieces of lining.

4 Lay the outer pieces onto a slightly larger piece of StyleVil interfacing and attach all

around with a very narrow seam. Trim so that all the layers match the denim.

5 On your template, there is a centre mark. This is where the label goes.

Decide which of the panels will be the front and mark the centre. Lightly glue the label on in the centre and then stitch in place using co-ordinating thread.

6 Take the zip and make a ‘sandwich’ with one piece of lining and one interfaced denim panel.

7 The two right sides should be together with the zip in the middle. (See Pic A.) Remember the zip will open from the left so make sure that the label agrees with the zip opening direction.

8 With the three layers together sew along the zip, starting and stopping 2cm from each end. (See Pic B.) This is a vitally important step that will become

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A

B

C

Shopping list Painterly Wash printed denim and Seafoam Squared Elements cotton by Art Gallery Fabrics. Use the online stockist finder to locate a retailer for this fabric at www.hantex.co.uk/mystockist

D

E

apparent when you do the lining in the final steps.

Flip the layers open and top-stitch along the zip, again stopping and starting 2cm in from either end. Repeat for the other side. The zip is a bit long but don’t worry, it will be trimmed in the next steps.

Find the base seams of the outer and sew both RST with no gaps. Now do the same on the lining but this time, leave a turning gap.

Working from the WS, align the zip so that it is perfectly matched with the outer base seam, pull the lining up out of the way (this is why you did not stitch or top-stitch right to the end) and sew across. (See Pic C.) Your zip will be a bit long so (after making sure that the zipper pull is somewhere in the middle of the bag) trim the excess off both ends.

Repeat for the other end then turn it over and do the same for the lining, clipping the outer out of the way.

Pinch the square corners across and box the corners on the non-opening end.

(See Pic D.)

Bring the leather strap through to add it to the remaining end as you box the corners there too. You can take this opportunity to shorten the strap now if you wish.

(See Pic E.)

Turn the bag through the gap in the lining and close the gap. Gently out poke the corners so that they are nice and sharp.

Thread baker’s twine through the zip pull and tie it off securely to finish.

Debbie says...

This is a great bag because it’s simple, small (but not too small) and spacious enough to fit the essentials

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FABRIC

1

2

STRETCH

yourself

Dive into Tilly's gorgeous new book with the Freya dress featuring a dainty rollneck and optional ruffle. We think it's simply frilling!

3

4

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Tilly and the Buttons: Stretch!

by Tilly Walnes

ÂŁ22.50, Quadrille

Fabric shopping Navy Floating Bouquets jersey, Cloud9 Your Heart Reverie, Reverie Fusions jersey, Katarina Roccella for Art Gallery Fabrics Thin Stripes Citron jersey, Cloud9 Boho Quest Night Indie Boheme jersey, Art Gallery Fabrics Fietsen Intense In Blue jersey, Art Gallery Fabrics Triangles Citron jersey, Cloud9 To find your local retailer for Cloud9 and Art Gallery Fabrics at www.hantex.co.uk/mystockist 38 www.lovesewingmag.co.uk

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Working on the ABOUT WENDY GARDINER As well as being Brand Ambassador for The McCall Pattern Company, Wendy is a published author and sewing teacher. Find her online courses at www.craftsy.com

BIAS

Bias-cut garments will follow your curves beautifully and are comfortable to wear. But what does bias-cut really mean? Wendy Gardiner, Brand Ambassador for The McCall Pattern Company, shares these useful tips keep in mind, as sewing stretchy fabric can be tricky.

Selvedge

Selvedge

T

he true bias is positioned at 45˚ to the selvedges and is the most stretchy direction of the fabric.

This means you can create a softly flowing garment with lots of stretch, which in turn often means you don’t need any fastenings and the garment will fit to your body better.

FINDING THE TRUE BIAS

To find the true bias, fold the cut edge of the fabric up so it is parallel with one selvedge – the diagonal fold is on the true bias. Note if you pull it along the diagonal, it will stretch much more than if you pull the fabric down the straight length or across the width.

A gorgeous bias-cut dress gently slides over the body (Vogue Pattern 1208)

1. Cutting out Secure the tissue to the fabric with plenty of pins to prevent it shifting and moving as you try to cut out. You can also try a sheet of plain tissue below the fabric for extra stability. Find plain tissue at www.sewdirect.com 2. Stay-stitch bias edges There are always edges that should not stretch, such as the neck edge, so secure the bias-cut edges of these as soon as possible with stay stitching. This is a row of straight stitching just inside the seam allowance, about 12mm from the raw edge.

For necklines, sew from shoulder to centre neck and then the other shoulder to centre neck rather than continuing to sew from shoulder to shoulder, which can result in stretching the fabric as you sew!

3. Stabilising stretchy areas Seams at shoulders and waistlines should not stretch. If they do, the bias-cut garment may lose its shape. Stabilise the seams by stitching seam binding or twill tape into the seams, or use stay tape (eg Vlieseline Edge Tape) that works well on lightweight fabric, knit fabric and curved edges (see below.)

ESSENTIAL TIPS

While a bias-cut dress can look amazing, there are a few tricks of the trade to

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Top tip!

4. Support fabric pieces This apples particularly to long dress sections. Don’t let them droop and hang over the table edge which can cause them to stretch out of shape before you even sew them!

Try to avoid handling the fabric too much to minimise the risk of it stretching

5. Use plenty of pins Pinning the seam edges will help prevent them stretching as you work. When sewing bias seams such as side seams, hold the fabric in the front and back of the presser foot and stretch it gently as you stitch. This will allow the seam to ‘give’ as you stitch, and it will also relax into a smooth seam when you are finished. Steam-iron it after stitching to leave a lovely, ripple-free seam.

6. Finishing seams If possible, use an overlocker with two thread or three thread to neaten the seam edge. Or use the over-edge foot and an over-edge stitch on your sewing machine, which closely resembles an overlocker. The fabric edge butts up against the guide on the right of the foot and the stitch has a straight stitch to the left with a zigzag that goes over the fabric edge to the right.

An asymmetrical bias hem looks great on this pull-on top (Butterick 6187)

Alternatively sew a double seam – sew a small zigzag stitch or second row of straight stitch close to the seam, then trim down the excess seam allowance close to the stitching. again. Stitch 6mm (¼”) from the fold.

Press to embed the stitches, then press neatened seam allowance to one side.

first seam allowance

the centre fold of the first seam becomes the outside edge

7. French seams This strong finish also works well on lightweight bias-cut fabric and adds a couture look to the inside of a garment.

The finished seam, which should be very narrow, completely encloses the raw edges of the seam allowances.

• With the WRONG sides together, stitch a 1cm (⅜”) seam. Trim the seam allowance to a scant 3mm (⅛”) and press them open.

• Fold fabric right sides together so the stitching is right on the fold and press

8. Hemming Hang the garment for at least 24 hours before hemming to let the bias seams droop if they are going to. Level the bottom edge before hemming by your preferred method.

Armed with these top tips for sewing bias-cut fabric, enjoy making one of the most comfortable garments you'll wear.

All the patterns mentioned here are available from www.sewdirect.com

Use French seams and a top-stitched hem on a dress where the underside shows easily (Butterick 6554)

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PATCHWORK QUILTING APPLIQUÉ FABRIC

B ritain’s N o.1 g uide to fabric & patchwork If you adore quilting and patchwork and love contemporary fabric, Quilt Now is your perfect companion. Each issue is filled with beautiful quilting projects from big bed quilts to must-have accessories, using the latest fabric and stash-friendly scraps.

FREE

8 ISSUSEA4LE ON W NO www.quiltnow.co.uk

6"-square quilting ruler with this issue!

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Order your copy today at www.moremags.com/qn48

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SWATCH SELECTOR

a i n n a t i r B l o o C Wave your flag loud and proud with our pick of patriotic prints LS52_Double Fat Jack colour.pdf

ABOUT

Kerry Kerry Green is co-author of 500 Quilt Blocks and is a contributor to many other books and magazines. Find sewing tips, free tutorials, patterns and more at Kerry’s blog www. verykerryberry.blogspot.co.uk

27/03/2018

15:04

T

his month I’m embracing the best of British, so whether you’re celebrating St George’s Day, the forthcoming Royal Wedding, or just warmer weather, I have a fabric selection in shades of red, white and blue and quintessentially British. I’ve included a range of Makower UK prints featuring London icons as well as imagery from Britain’s coastline and maritime heritage. I had to include some gorgeous Liberty Tana lawn. The Archive Lilac print is a classic Liberty design and ideal for spring tops and dresses. Flip Flap Fly B is from A Pocket Full of Memories, the Liberty childrenswear collection for spring/summer 2018 and was inspired by visits to the Natural History Museum. Vanessa Christenson’s OmbrÊ Confetti fabric add a little metallic sparkle, perfect for celebrations. This range is available in a rainbow of colours and has already proved popular with fabric fans.

I’ve turned to Lynne Goldsworthy for this month’s quilt block. She’s a modern British quilter with traditional roots. Her clever tutorial will help you make a large, Union Jack style block using fat quarters: www.lilysquilts.blogspot.co.uk/2011/05/double-fat-jack-tutorial

1

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Shopping list

3

Turn to page 65 to WIN a London Revisited bunting kit

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London Revisited, London Icons, Makower UK, ÂŁ6.50 per 0.5m, www.fabrics galore.co.uk Ombre Confetti border print in turquoise by Vanessa Christenson for Moda, ÂŁ3.80 per FQ, www.misformake.co.uk Liberty Tana Lawn Fabric Archive Lilac G Liberty Tana Lawn, ÂŁ5.20 per FQ, www.alicecaroline.co.uk Beach Comber Scenic Henley Design Studio for Makower UK, ÂŁ3 per FQ, www.plushaddict.co.uk London Revisited, Red White Blue Stripe Henley Design Studio for Makower UK, ÂŁ3 per FQ, www.plushaddict.co.uk London City Life in red, ÂŁ6 per 0.5m, www. fabricsgalore.co.uk A Pocket Full of Memories Flip Flap Fly B, Liberty Tana Lawn, ÂŁ5.20 per FQ, www.alicecaroline.co.uk Ombre Confetti border print, in Onyx by Vanessa Christenson for Moda, ÂŁ3.75 per FQ, www.fabrichq.co.uk

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15 MINUTES WITH...

Piece of THE ACTION We chat to Australian quilter Jodi Godfrey, the paper-piecing and hexie enthusiast behind Tales of Cloth Where do you find your design and piecing inspiration?

I have a Pinterest board full of bathroom tile designs that I refer to quite a bit! But mostly I just play with my paper shapes, finding new ways of putting the shapes together. After I’ve basted a bunch of shapes for a quilt I keep playing with new ideas because colour always changes the whole feel of a design. I’ve always been frustrated by computers and I love that I’ve found a way to design quilts that just uses my hands.

W

e chat to Jodi Godfrey about her passion for paper piecing and what inspires her quilt designs.

Hi Jodi, tell us, how long have you been quilting for? What first drew you to it?

A friend showed me Anna Maria Horner’s blog about 10 years ago. I’d never seen fabric like it here in Australia, and couldn’t imagine being able to buy it. So I just followed Four-point star paper pieces, her blog longingly! I had a $6.50 AUD (approximately £3.68) from www.talesofcloth.com quilting friend and I loved how she used all kinds of fabric that I would never choose, but the finished result was amazing. She was the ultimate scrap quilter and I wanted to ‘grow up’ and have a house full of quilts like her! When I first took up quilting I didn’t have many set expectations, and my ‘anything goes’ quilting friend gave me the courage to just try things and see how they went.

You specialise in English paper piecing (EPP). What is it you enjoy most about it?

Before I took up EPP, I had to be really clever at carving out sewing time. I think that’s a really good skill to learn when you’ve got young kids. But then I began working for Free Spirit, designing quilts for Quilt Market, and used all my creative time for work. So I started separating ‘work quilts’ and ‘play quits’ by method. Machine sewing was for my after lunch/rest-time stretch, and in the evenings I hand stitched. I really, really enjoy how portable and interruptible it is. I also just love how different it looks from traditional piecing. A whole new world of patterns opens up to you as soon as you’re not trying to break everything down to a square or rectangle for machine sewing.

What are your top tips for anyone looking to improve their EPP? I love using Bohin Milliners size 9 needles, Aurifil 50wt (thread the end that came off the

Jodi’s first-ever hexie quilt, made with Little Folks Voile

by Anna Maria Horner

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ABOUT

Jodi Godfrey Jodi is a modern quilter with a love of English paper piecing.

She designs quilts and sells her EPP pieces from her home in Victoria, Australia. Each piece is laser-cut by Jodi and her husband Tim and they come in all shapes and sizes, from hexies to jewels and even octagons! Follow Jodi’s latest quilt patterns and shop a wide range of EPP shapes at www.talesofcloth.com

Isosceles triangle paper pieces, $5.90 AUD (approximately £3.34) at www.talesofcloth.com

spool first, rather than the end you just snipped and you’ll get fewer tangles!), and supermarket glue sticks. Experiment and find tools you love to use and that keep you coming back. And then, when approaching your EPP design, think about how you can break it into blocks and rows like you do with machine piecing. Keep the work in your hands small for as along as possible.

It’s harder when there’s a heavy quilt top to wrangle!

EPP jewels used to make hexies

Can you recommend a quick EPP project to try over a weekend?

I offer single blocks of my Mandolin quilt. It’s a great block for having a go at fussy cutting.

It looks intricate but it’s actually really easy because you stitch in rounds, rarely having to break the thread to move to a different section.

And then, when you’re done, you can appliqué it to a cushion or wall hanging. My Hexie Shape Family is a little mixed bag of shapes that all relate to the hexagon. It’s a great pack for people who like to design their own quilts. You can arrange the shapes a certain way, snap a photo if you like it, and then try something new. I find it a whole lot more fun than graph paper or Adobe Illustrator. And my kids love it too!

Do you have any exciting plans for the next few months you’d like to share?

This year, I’m experimenting with mixed process quilts. I’ve been designing blocks that can be trimmed square and machine-sewn together, or appliquéd to squares or diamonds which can then be taken to the machine. I’m hoping it will encourage people who are new to EPP to give it a go. EPP blocks are so easy and fun and portable. By being able to finish them off by machine sewing, we get the best of both worlds!

Hexies and jewels create a stunning EPP design

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We love

STYLE

EARN your stripes

This exclusive design features dropped sleeves and a neckband, perfect for playing with striped fabric Project CLAIRE-LOUISE HARDIE Thrifty Stitcher Illustrations ROSIE MARTIN

Shopping list All striped jersey fabric shown is available from www.raystitch.co.uk. Prices start at £10 per metre

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Top tip

Draw a 20cm line on paper and cut a 10cm square of fabric. Without forcing things, if your fabric easily stretches to 12cm then it has 20% stretch!

CUTTING: 45"-wide with nap

60"-wide with nap FOLD

MATERIALS & TOOLS:

FOLD

SIZING:

FOLD

Bust

Finished bust

Finished back length

8

32� (81cm)

35� (89.05cm)

221⠄2� (58cm)

10

34� (86cm)

37� (94.24cm)

23� (58.65cm)

12

36� (91cm)

39� (99.4cm)

231⠄4� (59.3cm)

14

38� (96cm)

41� (104.64cm)

233⠄5� (59.95cm)

16

40� (101cm)

43� (109.84cm)

233⠄4� (60.6cm)

18

42� (106cm)

45� (115.04cm)

241⠄10� (61.25cm)

20

44� (112cm)

47� (120.06cm)

242⠄5� (61.9cm)

22

46� (116.84cm)

49� (125.44cm)

243⠄5� (62.55cm)

• 1.5m stretchy jersey fabric with at least 20% stretch • stretch or ballpoint needle • co-ordinating thread • templates downloaded from www.lovesewingmag.co.uk

NOTES: Seam allowance of 1cm is included unless otherwise stated This project is best sewn on an overlocker

HOW TO MAKE: Lay the front and back pieces RST.

Pin and sew the two shoulder seams either on the overlocker, or a with a zigzag stitch on the sewing machine, using a 1cm seam allowance. (See Pic A.) To use a zigzag stitch on a standard sewing machine your stitch should be 2mm wide and 2.5mm deep, but test these settings first.

Sew the neckline band into a tube by overlocking or zigzag-stitching the two short ends together. Press the seam open or to one side then fold the band in half widthways, ensuring the RS is facing out. (See Pic B.) Mark quarter and half points on both the neckband and the neckline of the garment with pins.

Match up the markers on the neckband and neck edge, then pin them together. The seam in the neckband should line up with the centre back of the neck edge. The neckband is slightly smaller than the neckline, so you’ll need to stretch it to fit the neck edge. (See Pic C.) Overlock/stitch in place with a 1cm seam allowance.

Press the neckband away from the top, so the seam sits neatly inside. This is essential for your tee to look professional.

Top-stitch or twin needlestitch next to the band to add a really professional finish.

Lay your top flat on the table with the RS facing up.

Pin each sleeve into its armhole flat with RST, starting

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A

B

C

D

E

F

at the centre of the sleeve and matching up all the notches.(See Pic D.) Sew the sleeves with a 1cm seam allowance on either an overlocker or the sewing machine.

Flip the bottom front of your top over to the bottom back with the RST. Pin the side seams and the underarm seam of the sleeves, matching up the notches.

Stitch the side seams with a 1cm seam allowance.

(See Pic E.) Press a 2.5cm hem on the bottom edges of the sleeves and the body of your tee, and pin into place from the RS. Sewing from the RS of your garment, sew the hems with a twin needle, using the 2cm seam groove on your machine to make sure your stitches are landing in the right place. (See Pic F.)

Dress HACK This classic boxy tee makes a great T-shirt dress too.

To extend the pattern, use your favourite T-shirt dress, folded in half along its length. Lay the dress on top of some pattern paper, lining up the folded edge to the edge of the paper.

Place the tee pattern over the top half of your dress, aligning the shoulders.

Trace around the lower part of your dress, and then stick this piece along the bottom of your tee shirt pattern. It’s a good idea to flare the lower half a little wider from the waist down, to allow for your bum!

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r i a h Red

THE GIRL WITH THE BRIGHT

ABOUT

Jade

Jade Earley was a finalist on The Great British Sewing Bee 2016 where she shared her love for sewing with the world.

Follow her sewing adventures at www.facebook.com/ thegirlwiththebrightredhair

H

ello everyone. I know lots of you like to sew for the little people in your life and it can be great fun as you don’t need a lot of fabric and there isn't the pressure to make everything perfect… children don’t spot wonky stitching like adults do! Well these three patterns are great makes for boys and girls of various ages. You can even get them involved by helping you pick fabric if they’re a little older.

Burda 9398 leggings Perfect for romping and crawling, these leggings are made from three pattern pieces. I made a pair for fellow Sewing

This issue Jade recommends her three favourite patterns for the little ones in your life Bee Angeline’s son Luke that were so cute. Although kids' patterns can involve a lot of small pieces, this one wasn’t too bad and didn’t need a lot of fabric; only half a metre for the 18 month (largest) size. You can buy the leggings pattern for £4.95 from www.simplicitynewlook.com Kwik Sew 3945 pyjamas These pyjamas come in different trouser lengths and include a button front, collar and pocket on the top. The steps are little bit trickier than the leggings, but I’ve demolished my copy of the pattern having made it multiple times.

The instructions are easy to follow and the pattern includes sizes XS-XL, which translates to chest measurements rather than ages. It’s almost teen sized as it goes from 23” for the XS to 31” for the XL chest. The trousers have an elasticated waist, which is a nice technique to try, and putting bright frills or chunky rickrack onto the collar and cuffs makes the pyjamas more fun for the little ones

wearing them. This pattern is £8.99 from www.sewdirect.com.

Love Sewing adorable baby dungarees Last but not least I wanted to let you know about an adorable set of dungarees you can make with a FREE pattern from Love Sewing.

Yep that’s right, it’s totally free! Get templates and instructions over on www.lovesewingmag.co.uk They originally appeared in issue 7, but are so good they’re worth trying now if you haven’t had chance to yet.

! g n i w e s y p p Ha

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The Old Stables 17-23 Poplar Road Kings Heath Birmingham B14 7AA T: 0121 443 5555 E: info@franknutt.co.uk

Three ways to buy - online

by telephone

or visit the shop

Lots of honest, helpful and friendly advice.

Around 100 sewing machines and overlockers on show, ready for demonstration.

We stock Bernina, Bernette, Brother, Elna, Husqvarna, Janome, Juki and Singer machines.

We have an extensive range of Horn cabinets and chairs on display.

We also do machine accessories, software, dress forms and workshops.

Free customer car park

www.franknutt.co.uk

INNOVATION IS OUR PASSION. We love to inspire you with our excellent ergonomic sewing tools.

Visit us on www.prym.com

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workshops STARTING 23RD AND 24TH APRIL Evening class, 10 weeks, 7.30pm-9.30pm

SEW SEW FABRICS Bexleyheath, Kent

If you’re thinking about learning to sew or perfecting new skills come along to a class.

Classes are limited to eight students to ensure everyone gets the most from the experience.

0844 807 3226 www.sewsewfabrics.co.uk info@sewsewfabrics.co.uk

SEW OVER IT

Islington and Clapham, London Founded by Lisa Comfort, Sew Over It is a friendly fabric shop with two locations in London. It holds super-fun sewing classes and also has its own range of sewing patterns! www.sewoverit.co.uk

10TH & 17TH MAY Alex Shirt & Dress – two threehour sessions, Clapham The Alex Shirt is a versatile, classic and effortlessly elegant shirt with two variations: wear it as a top or lengthen it into a dress, the choice is yours! If you have never made a shirt before, the Alex is the ideal place to start. With a flat collar, yoke, centre front button stand and three-quarter-length rolledup sleeves with tab fastening, there are loads of new techniques to learn.

Cost: £99

These dressmaking classes are suitable for all students with a desire to learn or develop their clothes-making abilities. Students may work on any project of their choosing although it is advisable to bring along a pattern utilising new techniques.

Cost: £125

Book yourself in to one of this month’s top workshops and expand your sewing horizons

29TH APRIL Free-motion embroidery Machines and all equipment are provided for this class that will go over the techniques required to get you started with free-motion machine embroidery with teacher Stacey Chapman.

Cost: £75

STARTING 25TH APRIL Daytime class, 10 weeks, 9.30am-12.30pm Can’t do evenings? These longer, three-hour sessions are great for completing lots of projects Cost: £170

15TH & 22ND MAY

23RD & 30TH MAY

Lottie dress – two three-hour sessions, Clapham

Ultimate Trousers– two threehour sessions, Clapham

Never be stuck for something to wear in summer with the brand-new Lottie Dress! This class focuses on those fiddly techniques that you might find tricky.

Learn how to make your own bias binding, which you’ll then use to finish the raw edges of the neckline as well as create the shoulder straps of the dress.

Once the dress is sewn you’ll learn how to get beautiful buttonholes every time.

Cost: £99

Made a few dresses but scared of attempting trousers? The Ultimate Trousers course is for you. Trousers are simple to make when you know how, but what is so important is that they fit.

The expert teachers will not only help you sew up your trousers but also help you fit them along the way.

Cost: £99

19TH & 20TH MAY Weekend dressmaking course On this intensive weekend-long beginner’s dressmaking course you will learn how to make two garments from start to finish, and leave with the knowledge of how to work from a pattern to create your own clothes.

Cost: £195

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SEW NEW

Northallerton, North Yorkshire Sew New is a family-run business with a wealth of experience in the textile industry. It stocks an extensive array of fabric, haberdashery and hosts a fantastic selection of workshops.

01609 531399 www.sewnew.co.uk

25TH APRIL Sew a skirt In this half-day course you will learn how to make a toile skirt. Learn how to choose the fabric, alter the pattern to fit you and insert a zip.

You will need to choose your fabric and there’s plenty to choose from in the shop.

Cost: £60

CRAFTY SEW & SO

St. Martins Square, Leicester Crafty Sew & So offers premium quality fabric and haberdashery, independent patterns, Brother sewing machines, kits and gifts for sewing enthusiasts and a wide range of sewing workshops.

0116 319 6930 www.craftysewandso.com

2ND MAY Dressmaking – simple shirt/blouse Learn how to make a shirt/blouse to fit you/your man/your child. Basic sewing skills needed. Master buttonholes, collar and more. This is a half-day course. Bring your own fabric or buy in store.

Cost: £60

16TH MAY Child’s dress class Make a child’s dress. Cotton fabric can be bought in store or you can bring your own if you wish.

Cost: £60

22ND & 29TH APRIL Shirt making – two-week course Make a smart or casual shirt in this twoday course. Choose from a selection of independent patterns and learn essential shirt-making techniques with demonstrations and advice from our tutor to make a shirt in a style of your choice.

Cost: £140

6TH MAY Pyjama bottoms Make a fun pair of men’s or women’s pyjama bottoms with an elasticated waistband. This is a great beginner’s dressmaking project!

Cost: £45

9TH & 26TH MAY Start as you mean to sew on (more dates available) Learn how to use a sewing machine in this introductory class for complete beginners.

Make a needle case and envelope cushion to show off your new skills!

Cost: £40

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New fabrics added every week

sewoverit.co.uk/shop £2.50 UK P&P 0207 326 0376 FREE for orders £75+ 54 www.lovesewingmag.co.uk

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BOOK OF THE MONTH

IN THE GOOD

BOOKS Our pick of this month’s new sewing and dressmaking books

The Sewing Book

by Alison Smith £25, DK

Hi Alison! Tell us, what inspired this new edition of such a much-loved book?

Myself and DK thought the book needed a makeover to bring it up to date; the new colour scheme for the book is just lovely. I also wanted to make some of the photographs clearer and emphasise the stitching as on the original edition it was sometimes difficult to see the stitching lines. Plus, i wanted to include new techniques such as a balanced dart, zip plackets and lining around a vent, which is so difficult to find in other texts.

What can readers expect to find inside?

The new edition has 10 fabulous projects, from a tote bag perfect to take shopping, to a toiletries bag, to a dress. The projects cater for sewists of all levels from beginner to more advanced and the patterns in the book can also be downloaded.

WIN

a signed copy!

Turn to page 65 to find out how

SEW CUTE The colourful new book, Sew Sweet Creatures, from Mariska Vos-Bolman showcases how to sew 12 cuddly characters, from Pippa Puppy to Miranda Mermaid.

Instructions are super clear and full-size templates included.

Pick up yours for £10.99 at www.searchpress.com

Alison What’s the most valuable piece of sewing advice you’ve ever been given?

I think the most useful advice, and something I often share with my students, is ‘If you don’t know what you’re doing, don’t do it’. In other words, if you are unsure of a technique, look it up in a book and practise before carrying out the technique on your garment.

What’s your favourite project and why?

My favourite is the dress. It’s such a flattering shape and perfect for spring.

Plus, it’s super quick and easy to make!

What can we look forward to from you over the next few months?

You can now see all my classes for this year at www.schoolofsewing.co.uk.

I have some very exciting projects scheduled for 2019 but these are still under wraps, so watch this space!

STITCHY SKILLS

CREATIVE QUILTING

Valerie Bothell shares 500 embroidery stitch combinations that you can use to jazz up your hand stitching repertoire for everything from hoop art to crazy quilting.

Joyful Daily Stitch is available now for £22.99 at www.ctpub.com

Quilted Throws, Bags & Accessories

by Sanae Kono is packed with 28 designs for you and your home, all inspired by traditional quilting techniques such as appliqué and English paper piecing. On sale now for £14.99 from www.searchpress.com

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We love

STYLE

AHOY there Time to whip up a nauticalinspired anchor-print dress in crisp, cool chambray. You'll love the contrast topstitching and in-panel pockets Project JULIA CLARIDGE Bobbins & Buttons

Shopping list Sevenberry anchor print chambray, ÂŁ16.40 per metre www.buttonsandbobbins.co.uk

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A

B

C

D

MATERIALS & TOOLS: • 2.5m (sizes 10-14) or 2.60m (sizes 16-18) 1.14m-wide medium-weight fabric • 22” dress zip • 50cm lightweight fusible interfacing • 2 spools of thread in a contrast colour for top-stitching • twin needle • templates downloaded from www.lovesewingmag.co.uk

NOTES: A 1.5cm seam allowance is included unless otherwise stated

LAYPLAN: 1

28/03/2018

12:58

45" LAYPLAN UPPER SIDE

FOLD LOWER SIDE

HOW TO MAKE:

SLEEVE

POCKET

1 With RST and raw edges matched pin the pocket bags to the lower side front panel, stitch the upper edge, turn to inside and press. Top-stitch the edge of the pocket in a contrast colour.

2 Place the upper side panel behind the lower side panel, with RST match the lower edge of the upper side panel to the lower edge of the pocket bag. (See Pic A.) Stitch the lower edge.

Neaten raw edges and press.

3 On the RS pin all three edges of the pocket together and machine-baste within the seam allowance to secure the pocket sides.

4 With RST pin the back panels together below the notch. Stitch, neaten raw edges and press open.

FRONT FACING BACK

FRONT

SIZING: BUST

WAIST

LENGTH

10

101cm

93cm

98cm

12

106cm

98cm

99cm

14

111cm

103cm

100cm

16

116cm

108cm

101cm

Press the facing to the inside Arrange the centre back of the garment. Turn the raw opening over the closed zip edges in at the zipper tape, to create a lapped zipper then slip-stitch the facing in finish and stitch in position. place by hand. (See Pic C.) 5 With RST and notches Discreetly hand-stitch the matched join the side front facing to the dress by attaching panels to the centre front the facing to the shoulder panel. Neaten raw edges, seam allowance. press the seams towards With RST pin and stitch the sides and top-stitch in a the front and back together contrast colour. (See Pic B.) at the side seams, neaten raw 6 With RST join the front and edges. With RST pin and stitch back together at the shoulder the sleeve underarm seam, seams, neaten raw edges. neaten raw edges. Stitch 7 With RST join front and two rows of long ease back neck facings at stitches over the shoulder seams, sleeve head. press seams With RST open. Neaten pin the sleeves the outer into the raw edge of If you don't want to try a armholes, the facing. twin needle, top-stitch matching 8 With RST using a regular needle notches and and shoulder with one or two rows seams. Pull seams of stitching the ease stitches matched pin slightly to achieve the neck facing to a good fit. Stitch and the neck edge. Stitch neaten raw edges. all around, stopping at the Neaten raw edges of sleeves centre back. Clip the curves and hem, turn a single turned and trim the seam allowance.

3cm hem on both sleeves and 9 Under-stitch the neckline, lower edge. Top-stitch and securing the seam allowance press to finish! (See Pic D.) to the facing.

Top tip!

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MASTERCLASS

TOPSTITCH SUCCESS A double row of topstitching in contrast colours is a great way to bring your garment to life and emphasise the seam lines and details.

Twin needles come in different sizes and this refers to both the needle size and the gap between the two needles. You can also get twin needle specifically for woven fabric. If in doubt, choose a universal needle.

Set up the second spool pin for your machine and run the threads through the hooks and guides before separating one thread to each needle. If your machine doesn't have a second spool, secure a pencil or chopstick to the side of your machine temporarily with Washi tape.

Make sure your machine is set to a straight stitch and if using thicker topstitching thread, select a slightly longer stitch length.

Take care when starting and stopping as back tacking may cause knots. Pulling threads through to the WS and knotting them is best.

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Enjoy

15% o

fabrics for the month of April with code: LOVE15

Online quality fabrics for dressmaking and crafting.

Dressmaking and sewing workshops in Leicester.

Bobbins and Buttons dressmaking pattern range.

www.bobbinsnbuttons.co.uk

Rooftop Fabrics are proud to offer an every expanding range of fabrics, including: Plush, Cottons, and other specialist items.

Tel: 01420 260036 Email: website@rooftopfabrics.com

www.rooftopfabrics.com

Sewing Machines, Overlockers and Embroidery Machines Free UK Delivery - order by phone, online or in store

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04/12/2017 29/03/2018 16:52 11:29

Shows you how to...

Claire-Louise Hardie

READ A PATTERN CIRCLE DOTS

These marks indicate construction details, such as zipper position, pleating, or the endof-stitching line, as set out in the instructions.

Some pattern companies will use triangles or squares in place of circle dots.

PATTERN CUTTING LINE

Each line relates to different size for the garment. There can be up to 10 sizes on a pattern sheet so you can either follow a single cutting line throughout or blend carefully between sizes to achieve a better fit.

GRAINLINE

The arrow on the pattern piece must be ‘on grain’ with the threads of the fabric so that it can hang, move and stretch correctly.

The grainline must always be parallel to the selvedge (the self-finished edges) of the fabric.

BUTTON & BUTTONHOLE PLACEMENT

The placement for a button is marked with an X. The placement for a buttonhole is marked with an edged line.

TUCKS/PLEATS

Transfer any tuck lines marked on the pattern PLACE ON FOLD LINE

This edge of the pattern piece is to be placed on the fold of your fabric, making it easy to cut out a mirror image at the same time. pieces to the RS (right side) of the garment.

Follow directional arrows where given.

ABBREVIATIONS DARTS

SA (SEAM ALLOWANCE)

Parts of the fabric to be folded for shaping, usually located at the bust, waist and neck.

Every project you sew has a set seam allowance.

This is the distance between where you sew and the raw edge of the fabric – essentially an invisible line around each pattern piece. These lines are occasionally included on vintage patterns. You must sew at the seam allowance in order for the pieces to line up correctly.

Most commonly this is 1.5cm, but check your instructions in case smaller allowances are being used. Sewing machines have marks for the seam allowance to the right side of the presser foot.

NOTCHES

Make a tiny snip or chalk mark at each notch location, within the seam allowance. These marks are used to match pieces together before sewing.

RS (RIGHT SIDE AKA FABRIC FRONT)

LAYOUT DIAGRAMS

These explain how to lay each piece onto the fabric to ensure that all of the pieces will fit on the fabric quantity suggested on the envelope. Remember to follow along with the correct view and size. Don’t forget to take care with directional prints; you wouldn’t want a floral print top with all the flowers upside down.

LS41.P68 Pattern Adjustments.indd 68

Instructions for placing right sides of fabric together will be written as RST. LENGTHEN OR SHORTEN LINE

This indicates exactly where to shorten or lengthen the pattern piece or garment to make changes for improved fit.

WS (WRONG SIDE AKA FABRIC BACK)

Instructions for fusing interfacing to the wrong side of fabric will be written as WST.

30/05/2017 15:01

ACHIEVE THE PERFECT FIT Draw a third horizontal line a little above the hem between Line 1 and the centre front of the pattern.

BUST ADJUSTMENTS

First, you need to work out how much additional space you require around the bust or what you’d like to remove. Here is a helpful chart to work out the amount: Small bust example

Full bust example

Full bust measurement

33�

38�

High bust measurement

32�

35�

Difference

1�

3�

Adjustment

1/2� SBA = half the difference

11/2� FBA = half the difference

Cut along Line 1 from the hem to the armhole, making sure not to cut all the way through the armhole. Leave a hinge so you can pivot the paper. The point of the dart has now swung away from its original position.

Cut through the line in the middle of the dart, again leave a little hinge at the tip of the dart so you can pivot.

The lower edge of your hem no longer meets at the bottom, as the side that has been adjusted is now longer. Cut the third line you drew, and spread apart until your hem is level.

Fill in the spaces created with tracing paper, and stick into place.

Using a ruler and pencil, draw a vertical line from the marked point to the hem. Make sure the line is parallel to the grainline on the pattern.

SMALL BUST ADJUSTMENT (FIG E) Draw in the lines as per an FBA adjustment.

This is essentially the same process in reverse.

From this line, draw a second line up towards the armhole, hitting the lower third of the armhole. Together, these lines are called Line 1.

Swing the darted side of the pattern across the other side, by the desired SBA amount.

The lower edge of the hem no longer meets at the bottom, as the side that has been adjusted is now shorter. Cut the third line you drew, and overlap until your hem is level.

Draw a second line horizontally through the middle of the bust dart, meeting Line 1 at the bust point.

1/3

1

B

2

apex

1

C

2

D

E

1

2 lap

3

3

Some patterns will come with an adjustment line for narrow or broad back drawn on. If your pattern doesn’t, you can easily do this yourself.

NARROW BACK (FIGS A – C) B

A

C

Line up the cut edges of Line 1 so they’ve been spread apart by the amount of your FBA. The edges should be parallel. You’ll notice that your dart has now spread apart too and become bigger.

FULL BUST ADJUSTMENT (FIGS A-D) Lay the tissue pattern against yourself to establish where your bust point is. Mark onto the pattern with a cross.

A

BACK ADJUSTMENTS

3

Draw a vertical line down from the shoulder, 3cm from the armhole to just below the bottom of the armhole. Draw a second line at a right angle from this point.

Cut along the two lines, and slide the armhole side overlapping the paper. Stick in place. A small Ÿ� adjustment is often enough. Play around with this amount as you develop your fitting skills.

Use a ruler and pencil to true up and re-draw the side seam and shoulder seam. Because we have only adjusted the upper back, the fit should remain the same around the waist. (See the orange lines on Fig B.) You’ll now need to make the front shoulder width a little shorter. Line up the notches on the shoulder ensuring sure the neckline is lined up. The front width will be a little longer than the newly adjusted back shoulder. Draw a new, narrower line from the back around the front, trimming a little of the front armhole away. Don’t forget to make sure your new curved line is smooth at the shoulder.

BROAD BACK ADJUSTMENT (FIGS D AND E) D

ADJUSTING FOR HEIGHT

E

A

SHORTEN A PATTERN (FIG A) Working at 90Ëš to the grain, make corresponding tucks across the front and back bodice, at bust and below armhole. Make corresponding tucks across the front and back of skirt below the hips. For sleeves, shorten above and below the elbow, avoiding the sleeve head curve.

LENTHEN A PATTERN (FIG B) Working at 90Ëš to the grain, cut across the front and back bodice, at bust and below armhole. Cut across the front and back of skirt below the hips. For sleeves, cut above and below the elbow, avoiding the sleeve head curve. Spread the pattern pieces as required and fill the spaces with scrap paper.

A

BELOW THE HIP ADJUSTMENTS (FIG A) To decrease the width, make a graduated tuck from the waist to the hem, tapering to nothing at the waist, indicated by the dotted line.

To increase the width, cut the pattern piece through the waist to the hem, place over scrap paper and spread to the required size.

LS41.P68 Pattern Adjustments.indd 69

Start in the same way as a narrow back adjustment drawing the two lines and cutting along them.

B

Instead of overlapping the cut pattern pieces, spread them. As before there are no hard and fast rules, but with a broad back a Ÿ-½� adjustment is about right. Fill in the space with some tracing paper and stick together.

Use a ruler and a pencil to true up and re-draw the side seam and shoulder seam. (See the orange lines on Fig D.) This time you’ll need to make the front shoulder a little longer. As with the narrow adjustment, line up the shoulder seams, ensuring the neckline is aligned.

Draw a curved line from the back shoulder down towards the front armhole, adding a sliver to the front shoulder and armhole.

Check that you’ve drawn a smooth line over the shoulder.

30/05/2017 15:01

We love KIDS

MATERIALS & TOOLS: • 16 print fabrics for octopus: maximum of 21x7½” (53.5x19cm) of each • wooden stick or chopstick for turning & stuffing • large bag of toy stuffing • 8 tablespoons dry rice • co-ordinating thread • templates downloaded from www.lovesewingmag.co.uk

Get your

SEA LEGS Made with bright happy fabric, this super-size octopus from Tilda will always be fun to play with!

Project TONE FINNAGER

NOTES: Finished size is approximately 9x25½” (23x65cm) 16 fabrics from the Sunkiss range were used for the head pieces Some of the same fabric was used randomly for the front and back of the legs. The eight fabric types used for the bottom of the octopus are the same as the back of the legs

HOW TO MAKE: 1 Cut a 3¾x21” (9.5x53.5cm) piece from each fabric. Pin two different fabric pieces RST. Draw the leg pattern on the fabric about ½” (1.3cm) from the edge of the fabric and sew on the line, leaving a gap where shown. Cut out with a seam allowance, turn through and press.

2 Fill the leg with a tablespoon of rice and then add the stuffing, very loosely.

The rice will make the leg heavier and so hang better.

3 Close the opening on top with a zigzag seam. (See Pic A.) Repeat this with other pairs of fabric to make eight legs in total.

4 Using the remaining fabric, mark one head pattern on each of the 16 fabrics and cut out the shapes with a ¼” (6mm) seam allowance all round. Match the head pieces in pairs and then sew each pair together along one long side RST, so

Shopping list Tilda Sunkiss fabric collection will be available at www.sewandso.co.uk later this month

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Lorna says...

A

Add some character to your octopus by adding eyes and a cheeky smile B

C

D

E

F

G

that you have eight paired head pieces.

Using the triangle pattern and selecting the same fabric used for the back of the legs, mark eight bottom pieces.

Cut out the shapes with a Ÿ�

(6mm) seam allowance all round. (See Pic B.) Pin a head pair and bottom piece RST with a leg in between. The side of the leg that you want facing outwards on the finished octopus should face the head piece. (See Pic C.) Sew the pieces together along the bottom line. Fold the leg and bottom piece down.

(See Pic D.) Repeat this until you have eight pieces.

To assemble, start by placing two sections RST. Sew from the top of the head to

Top tip

Use a shorter stitch length of about 1.5mm for robust seams that will be stuffed

the bottom of the bottom piece, keeping the legs out of the way. (See Pic E). Fold apart and sew the next section on. When sewing the last two edges together, all legs need to be inside the head. (See Pic F.) Sew along the head and stop about 1⠄8� (3mm) into the bottom piece and secure the thread. Begin sewing again, this time about 1⠄8� (3mm) from the centre of the bottom and secure the thread to leave a gap for turning through.

Bring all the legs out through the opening and turn the head through. Stuff the head well and stitch the

opening shut.

To cover the place where all the fabric ends meet on the top and bottom of the octopus, fold two pieces of fabric RST and draw two circles using the circle pattern. Sew all the way around. (See Pic G.) Cut out the circles with a small seam allowance and make a slit through one of the fabric layers.

Turn it out through the slit and press. To finish, sew the circles onto the top and bottom of the octopus, with the slit facing in towards the octopus.

ABOUT THE BOOK

Sunshine Sewing by Tone Finnager, ÂŁ12.99 www.sewandso.co.uk

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clothbound makers of exquisite pressing tools

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MATERIAL GIRL LAURA SN15.P68.indd 68

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Presenting a beautiful collection of fabrics and patterns from Sew Over It, Tilly And The Buttons, Atelier Brunette, Aime Comme Marie, Kimsa, Art Gallery, Lady McElroy, See You At Six, Soft Cactus and many more!

www.materialgirllaura.co.uk

clothspot.co.uk 01775 640996

New fabrics every Friday!

64 www.lovesewingmag.co.uk

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Pretty sewing goodies, patterns, tools and the chance to win some gorgeous fabric from your favourite suppliers

Worth over

£450

WIN A PFAFF

SEWING MACHINE FROM SEW ESSENTIAL

The team at Sew Essential is spoiling us this month by offering one lucky reader a PFAFF Passport 2.0 sewing machine. This light and compact machine features PFAFF’s original integrated dual-feed system and presser foot system, allowing for an easy setup and a smooth sewing experience. Choose from any of the 70 built-in stitches including utility, buttonhole and satin as well as a decorative appliqué pin stitch. The machine also boasts a handy start/stop button, automatic tie-off function and an extra-high presser foot option.

Sew Essential stocks an extensive range of sewing machines from all the top brands. Its expert team offers excellent before and after sales service, giving you full confidence in your sewing machine purchase. Visit the showroom in Derbyshire or online at www.sewessential.co.uk

Turn over for many more discounts & pri zes www.lovesewingmag.co.uk 65

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5

pairs to win

Claim 2-4-1 tickets by entering the code OV110 when ordering tickets at www.ichfevents.co.uk or phone 01425 277988.

Children under 16 go free when accompanied by an adult. All prices relate to a one day adult tickets bought in advance. Offer is not valid on the door.

WIN TICKETS TO THE CREATIVE CRAFT SHOW IN MANCHESTER!

Don’t miss the chance to win a pair of tickets to The Creative Craft Show Manchester taking place at EventCity, Manchester from 6-8th September 2018. The show is a craft heaven, featuring over 100 exhibitors with all the latest craft supplies, inspiration for spring projects, advice and top tips. At the show you’ll find a free programme of quick and easy workshops and talks, the latest products and creations from the world of creative craft and a host of stitching and dressmaking displays. Visit www.ichfevents.co.uk to save money on advance tickets and for the latest show information.

Standard Terms and Conditions apply. Travel costs and expenses to and from the venue are not included in the prize. Deadline for entries is 17th May, 2018. Prize has no monetary value and is not transferable. Visit www.ichfevents.co.uk to sign up to the free eNewsletters and stay up to date with the latest news from ICHF’s creative craft and cake shows

Worth over

£150

WIN A SEWING MACHINE BAG FROM GROVES If you’re in need of a bright and colourful new sewing bag we have just the thing. This month, we’re offering four lucky readers a beautiful matt PVC sewing bag. Transport your machine and sewing tools with style and ease with the help of the bag’s sturdy carrier handles and spacious zip around pocket. For stockist information, email groves@stockistenquiries.co.uk

WIN A FABRIC BUNDLE FROM GIRL CHARLEE

Worth £100

Stocking an extensive range of fabric, Girl Charlee has something to suit every dressmaking project.

One lucky reader will win a lovely bundle of fabric worth £100! Kick start your spring/summer projects by entering the competition to win this fantastic prize. To find out more about Girl Charlee, visit www.girlcharlee.co.uk

WIN A PATTERN BUNDLE FROM LIESL + CO. Expand your home-sewn wardrobe with these brandnew patterns from Liesl + Co. One lucky winner will receive a digital copy of the new Extra Sharp Pencil Skirt complete with side panels, back-yoke detail and back walking vent. Additionally, you’ll win a digital Terrace Dress pattern which is perfect for beginner sewists and those eager to master the simple and chic look. The team is also throwing in a digital copy of the Weekend Getaway Blouse and Dress; an easy-to-wear wardrobe staple. To see more of the lovely patterns stocked by Liesl + Co., visit www.oliverands.com

Exclusive discounts

15% discount at M is for make. Stock up on

some lovely new fabric by taking advantage of this amazing 15% discount from M is for make. Simply enter the code LOVESEWING between 14th April and 17th May to save. www.misformake.co.uk

SAVE 20% on selected fabric until 17th May at Croft Mill (see page 74 for details)

66 www.lovesewingmag.co.uk

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WIN A SET OF

PATTERN WEIGHTS

Holding your fabric in place is paramount if you want to create a truly professional finish. We have a set of lovely pattern weights to give away to one lucky reader. The weights are composed of durable and smooth material and are waterproof and scratch resistant. At 5mm thick, they’re easy to distribute and take with you to classes. For your local retailer, visit www.hantex.co.uk/mystockist

WIN A BUNTING KIT Celebrate the best of British with this bold union jack bunting kit from Makower UK. One lucky reader will receive pre-printed panels along with 1m of fabric for backing. To see more collections, visit www.makoweruk.com

5

to win WIN A NEEDLE THREADING BUNDLE FROM HEMLINE

Threading a needle can sometimes feel like a timeconsuming and fiddly task. To help get your sewing projects off to a flying start the team at Hemline is offering five lucky readers a needle-threading bundle. This nifty kit includes a LED threader which illuminates wire and needle eye for ease, a hummingbird threader and a threader for long and larger needles. Hemline products are available nationwide from haberdashery, knitting and craft stockists. For stockist information, email groves@stockistenquiries.co.uk

WIN a signed copy of The Sewing Book To celebrate the launch of Alison Smith’s new book we’re giving away a signed copy of The Sewing Book (DK, £25) to one lucky reader! The Sewing Book warrants a place on every sewist’s bookshelf and includes a host of useful hints and tips to help you make the most of your projects, whether you’re dressmaking or making soft furnishings. The book features sage advice on sewing tools, equipment and techniques, and helps you put this into practice with the inclusion of 10 lovely projects. To find out more about books stocked by DK, visit www.dk.com

1 to win

WIN A HOT HEMMER FROM CLOVER

6

to win

Protect your fabric whilst ironing with the new Hot Hemmer from Clover. Composed of 100% nylon, this 10x15cm ruler allows steam to penetrate through without the fabric retaining any heat. The ruler includes useful guidelines for mitred corners, a curve for shaping and turning through pockets as well as 0.8cm markings for seams so it’s ideal for measuring, marking, folding and pressing seams. We have six of these nifty tools to give away. For stockist information, contact Clover at clover@stockistenquiries.co.uk

HOW TO ENTER

For a chance to win any of this issue’s giveaways, enter your details along with the names of the products you would like to win at www.ppjump.com/lovesewing52 By entering these competitions, you accept that your email address may be passed on to sponsors for marketing activities.

Closing date 17th May 2018 unless otherwise stated

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th r o r W ove 25 .

8 1 £

SEW YOUR SPRING WARDROBE TODAY! Issue 20 on sale 26th April

FREE 2-IN-1 dress pattern Sophia top and skirt pattern

Spotty dog bed

In sizes 8-22

Kids’ contrast-cuff jersey tee

Order your copy today at www.moremags.com/sn20

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We love

STYLE

SEW and

SOW Show off your green fingers with this charming gardener’s apron and secateurs pouch made with fabric inspired by plants Project DEBBIE VON GRABLERCROZIER The Folk Art Factory

Shopping list We used the Sow & Sew collection from Cloud 9 Fabrics.

Find your nearest stockist at www.hantex.co.uk/mystockist

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MATERIALS & TOOLS: APRON: • 0.5m Sprouts Citron fabric • 0.5m Herb Garden Blue fabric • 40cm strip Thyme Ebony fabric • fat quarter Vlieseline H630 fusible wadding • fat eighth Vlieseline S320 fusible interfacing • 2.5cm swivel clip • 1 black Kam snap #20 • 2.5x10cm tan scrap leather • Berisfords Union Jack ribbon • fabric glue POUCH: • fat eighth Sprouts Citron fabric • fat eighth Thyme Ebony fabric • fat quarter Vlieseline #279 80/20 cotton-mix wadding • tan leather scrap for label & zip pull • black Perle 8 cotton • 23cm grey metal zipper • co-ordinating thread • manual die-cutting machine & oval die (optional)

• sentiment stamp • Jet Black Ranger Archival Ink • template downloaded from www.lovesewingmag.co.uk

NOTES: • Seam allowances are all 0.5cm (1⠄4�) unless otherwise stated

HOW TO MAKE: APRON Take the piece of leather and stitch down both sides to decorate. Fold in half around the swivel clip and secure the end. (See Pic A.) Cut a 25x46cm landscape rectangle from Sprouts fabric and a 6x46cm landscape rectangle from Herb Garden fabric. Align the pieces RST along one long edge and sandwich the key fob between, 8cm in from the right-hand side.

Press the seam open and fuse a piece of H630 to the

WS and top-stitch along both sides of the seam. (See Pic B.) The large pocket is made from Herb Garden fabric.

Cut two 18x46cm landscape rectangles. Fuse a piece of H630 to one piece, which will be the outer. With RST, sew the interfaced front to the pocket lining along the top seam only.

Press over and top-stitch with a narrow seam. Baste the sides and bottom and trim slightly.

There is a slip pocket on the front of the larger pocket.

Cut a 10x20cm piece of S320 and two 12x22cm pieces of Thyme Ebony fabric. Fuse the interfacing to the WS of one rectangle centrally.

With the pieces RST, sew along the very edge of the interfacing, leaving a turning gap at the bottom. Trim the

seam allowance to 0.5cm and clip across the corners to reduce bulk.

Turn the pocket the right way out and sew the Union Jack ribbon to the bottom right-hand corner. You can finish the edges of the flag with a bit of fray stopper.

Position the small pocket 3cm down from the top edge in the dead centre. Top-stitch in place. Divide the pocket in half with a vertical stitching line. (See Pic C.) Attach the assembled pockets to the front and segment with a few vertical seams. Choose the positioning based on your favourite tools. Baste the edges together and trim to neaten.

Add a snap fastener to the centre pocket.

Cut a 30x46cm landscape rectangle of Sprouts fabric for the apron back.

Cut two 10x70cm straps from Thyme fabric and fold each strap lengthways RST. Sew one end and the long edge then clip across the corner and turn RS out. Topstitch all around a few mm from the edge.

Attach the strap ends 0.5cm down from the assembled top and facing inwards. Sew them in place within the seam allowance.

Tuck the straps into a pocket for safety and arrange the assembled front RST with the back. Sew all around, leaving a turning gap at the bottom.

Clip the corners and grade the seam allowance to reduce bulk. Turn out through the gap and press flat. To finish the apron, top-stitch all

Bethany says...

This apron would make a lovely Father's Day present or gift for the keen gardener in your life

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A

B

C

D

E

F

G

H

around a few mm from the edge, which will close the turning gap at the same time.

POUCH Bind the zipper tape ends with straight binding 4cm wide and just a little longer then the zipper tape width.

(See Pic D.) Cut a piece of canvas a little larger all around than the template and pin to a piece of wadding. Quilt with co-ordinating thread using your favourite quilting pattern. Repeat on a second piece, flipped so it’s a mirror image of the first. When you have quilted both outer pieces, trim to shape.

(See Pic E.) Cut two pieces of lining from a folded piece of Thyme fabric using the template.

Make the label by cutting an oval using your die-cutting machine or by hand. Stamp with your chosen words.

Attach the stamp to the outer bag (the pouch opens from the left as shown).

Make a sandwich with one of the pieces of lining and the corresponding piece of outer.

These will be RST with the zip between. Sew along the zip from the edge of the binding on the zip end to the other bound end. (See Pic F.) Remember, only sew the zip and top-stitch from the

end of the bound edge of the zip to the other bound edge!

Turn out to reveal the zip and top-stitch alongside.

Repeat for the other side.

(See Pic G.) Open the zip halfway and, with the RST, pin lining to lining and outer to outer. Sew all around the edge, leaving a turning gap in the lining.

Turn out through the gap and close it. Stuff the lining into the bag.

Finish the zip pull with a 0.5x8cm strip of leather.

Thread it through the zip pull and make a hole right near the zipper pull going through both layers. Secure with black Perle cotton to finish! (See Pic H.)

Top tip

Double check the size of your secatuers against the template before getting started and resize if needed to avoid any heartache later on!

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ASK THE EXPERTS

THRIFTY

STITCHER

If you're looking for a sewing challenge but don't want to take on more than you can handle why not try a pyjama top? It will boost your skills in surprising ways I’ve rounded up all the reasons that pyjama tops are a good sewing skill booster:

SPECIAL SLEEVES

Attach sleeves using the easy laid-on method for shirts. Here you can install the sleeve flat because of the large amount of ease and low sleeve head being used. Once you try this technique you’ll be trying it on T-shirts too!

NOTCH COLLARS

Most pyjama shirts feature a notch collar, which is a great way to step into shirt making without having to try a classic collar band. The upper collar is trapped between the ends of the front facings and creates a triangle shape notch in the finished collar.

The Carolyn pyjamas are a modern take on a classic style

ABOUT CLAIRE-LOUISE Claire-Louise is an author, pattern designer, teacher and costumier.

We recommend Claire-Louise's latest course www.learntosewwithapro. com/ultimate-beginners Claire-Louise’s book, The Great British Sewing Bee: Fashion With Fabric, accompanied the third series of the show and is priced at £20 from www.quadrille.co.uk

LS52 thrifty.indd 72

I

f you’re ready to really up your dressmaking skills, and dive into shirt and blouse making, the pyjama shirt is the perfect intro. You’ll learn about collars and lapels without worrying about perfect topstitching and, since it’s a loose fit, you can relax and enjoy the process of making.

Not only are pyjama shirts great for lounging about in on Sundays, they also look great on the streets worn as shirts!

Made in bold prints and worn open over T-shirts and camisoles, they make an easy cover-up on a hot day.

FABULOUS FACINGS

Master the art of using the perfect weight interfacing for your fabric. With silky PJ fabric you don’t want a super-heavy interfacing ruining the drape of the button band. Remember we’re adding stability not weight!

PRACTISE YOUR PRESSING

The art of pressing a perfect pocket is something to be practised. Say that quickly 10 times! Make yourself a pressing guide out of cardboard and work hard to create an even-sized pocket you’ll be proud to wear on your chest.

PIPING POWER

Learn how to add piping to your pyjama top and create that classic look we know so well. It will literally go anywhere! Your

03/04/2018 16:07

skill focus SPECIAL Serrated scissors are a great help when it comes to slippery silk

collar, button bands, hems, cuffs and even on your little patch pocket! Simply install along the seam line with your zipper foot and tuck the ends out of sight.

TERRIFIC TOPSTITCHING

Get to grips with decorative topstitching by using a contrast colour to pull out your buttonholes, define your button bands and the hems.

Joanie Clothing shoes us how to layer a PJ top like a pro

SLIPPERY FABRIC

Ready for an extra skill-building lesson?

Try a super-slippery fabric like silk. It may need some extra care as you work but will feel great against your skin.

Try cutting out your fabric and pattern with a layer of plain tissue paper placed underneath. It will grip the fabric as you cut rather than wafting about. Serrated scissors are a great help with this too.

With sharp pins and a fresh small machine needle, you shouldn’t end up with any unsightly snags in your fabric either.

This silk-mix viscose from Til The Sun Goes Down would be a perfect match

PATTERNS TO TRY

Vintage styles are great for this look but if you'd rather try a modern pattern here are a few suggestions: • Lisette for Butterick 6296 is a classic pyjama pattern style with a wide range of sizes and you'll find the pattern in your local haberdashery.

• Independent patterns like the Carolyn pyjamas from Closet Case Patterns feature photo step-by-step images that are great for beginners.

• The Keana Piped Blouse from Named patterns includes nice details such as three-quarter-length sleeves and a back pleat to add shaping.

SEW WITH CLAIRE-LOUISE

Why not try the Intro to Shirts & Blouses: The Pyjama Shirt at ClaireLouise's studio in London? Visit her website for the latest course dates.

We love this set from Figleaves

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www.houseoffraser.co.uk

SAVE 20%

Croft Mill has a rich heritage in the textile industry, having started out as one of the first mail-order fabric suppliers. Since its inauguration in the 1940s, Croft Mill has grown into a well-established and respected fabric company, supplying sewists with unique fabric from both local and international designers.

on fabric number 5, 6 and 8 at Croft Mill using the code

LOVESEW52 Visit www.croftmill.co.uk to browse the extensive collection of beautiful fabric

*Offer valid from 19th April until 17th May 2018

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FABRIC

1

2

3

Into the WILD Take a walk on the wild side with our selection of tropical prints

4

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8

Fabric shopping Bali Coast lightweight cotton and rayon, ÂŁ8.50 per metre Benartex Buried Treasure 100% cotton, ÂŁ9 per metre Dee Light Coral Mustard 100% polyester, ÂŁ12 per metre John Louden Canvas Flamingos cotton canvas, ÂŁ18 per metre Taupe Sewing Room Going Bananas cotton poplin, ÂŁ6.95 per metre Sewing Room Safari cotton poplin, ÂŁ6.95 per metre JL Toucan Paradise cotton, ÂŁ10 per metre Sewing Room Suzi cotton poplin, ÂŁ6.95 per metre All available from www.croftmill.co.uk www.lovesewingmag.co.uk 75

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SHOP LOCAL DIRECTORY BASINGSTOKE

BEVERLEY

BEXLEY HEATH

Sewing supplies & fabrics all under one roof! North Bar Fabrics in Cherry Burton is one of the leading fabric stockists in the area. Visit our store today and you will ďŹ nd exactly what you are looking for.

Bernina and Janome stockists

BlueButtonDesigns djpproducts@msn.com Fabric, Wools and Haberdashery 07540 634 351 Buttons, Ribbons and Patterns Blue Make Buttons Designs Weekly Space Group Traders Outlet 39 Parsonage Street 3-7 Tatton Road, Dursley, Glos, GL11Sale, 5RG Cheshire, M33 7EB www.inchesfabrics.co.uk

The Courtyard, Burton Mount, Off Malton Road, Cherry Burton, Beverley, HU17 7RA info@northbarfabrics.co.uk Call: 01964 551 955

CLITHEROE

CUMBRIA

CHESHIRE

DUMFRIES

DURHAM

Romy's Sewing Rooms For all your haberdashery needs.

Sewing classes for all ages and abilities.

180 Irish Street, Dumfries, DG1 2NJ 01387250867

romyssewingrooms@gmail.com www.facebook.com/Romyssewingrooms

GLOUCESTERSHIRE

GRIMSBY

HALIFAX

HAMPSHIRE

Reads of Winchester From Fabrics and Haberdashery, to Wool, Knitting and Crochet Accessories, we have it all here at Friary Stitch.

Fabric, Wools and Haberdashery Buttons, Ribbons and Patterns Weekly Make Space Group 39 Parsonage Street Dursley, Glos, GL11 5RG www.inchesfabrics.co.uk

HAMPSHIRE

Come on in and take a look around!

2-4 Bethlehem Street Grimsby, DN31 1JU

Suppliers of sewing machines.

Janome, Elna, Bernina, Toyota, Jaguar Both new and reconditioned.

The Fabbadashery

Fabulous Fabrics, Beautiful Buttons and Truly Scrumptious Trimmings.

Craft Workshops Every Week!

Many machines on display demonstrations available.

Sales service repair haberdashery supplies

Tel 01962 850950

01472 357800

hello@thefabbadashery.com www.thefabbadashery.com 01422 647574

www.friarystitch.co.uk

10-12 Clare Road, Halifax, HX1 2HX

1 St Thomas Street, Winchester, hants SO23 9HE Open Monday to Saturday 9am to 5pm

HEREFORD

LINCOLNSHIRE

LONDON

Badder Fabrics of Hereford

SEW BUSY

Stockists of Michael Miller, Riley Blake, Makower, Stof, Tilda, Robert Kaufmann, Dashwood and others. Buttons, haberdashery, patterns, unique gifts and craft workshops.

Unit 18c The Hart Centre, Fleet Road, Fleet GU51 3LA Tel: 01252 444220 www.sew-busy.co.uk

One stop shop for all your dressmaking needs Patterns, fashion and bridal fabrics, dressmakingand alterations service Husqvarna sewing machine sales and repairs on all models Taking part in the Shop local giveaway campaign 36a Aubrey Street, Hereford HR4 0BU Tel 01432 379137 Email: badderfabric@gmail.com

A gathering place for friends, fabric and inspiration Fabrics . Haberdashery . Sewing classes Leanne's new sewing shop Lots of exciting plans Pop in to say 'Hi'!

Unit 8, Crown Walk, Bourne, Lincs PE10 9NE 01778 420464 www.gathernsew.co.uk

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Surrey KT8 9HA

Shop open 7 days a week 1000s of bolts, books, notions, buttons & beads and bag making accessories Classes & Workshops Secure Online Shopping

Beautiful fabrics and workshops where you will find a warm and friendly welcome.

SHOP LOCAL DIRECTORY

www.creativequilting.co.uk

Unit 66, Basepoint, The Havens, Ipswich IP3 9BF kisquiltingltd@yahoo.co.uk 01473 722888

LONDON

MERSEYSIDE

isabelle@creativequilting.co.uk 020 8941 7075

ULVERSTON NORTH DEVON

swansea MORPETH

www.thelittlekraftshed.co.uk

A Good Yarn Let us teach you the Art of Sewing.

With a variety of Bespoke Tailoring, Pattern Cutting and Garment Making courses, we can help tailor your sewing future Telephone 07399249471 Facebook SKB Tailoring and Training Centre Email skbtailoring@gmail.com We make learning easy

NORTH YORKSHIRE

Stockist of Brother, Janome & Toyota FULL SERVICE NOW £40 (NORMAL PRICE £60) We have a range of haberdashery, yarns, patterns and spare parts available in store. We specialise in repair and service of machines, with free local pick-up and delivery.

185 Hoylake Road, Moreton, Wirral, Merseyside CH46 9QA Tel: 0151 677 7755

Come and see us at Sew New Ltd., 1, The Fairway, Romanby, Northallerton, DL7 8AY Tel: 01609 531399 Email: info@sewnew.co.uk Facebook: www.facebook.com/SewNew.co.uk www.sewnew.co.uk

SCOTLAND

We run weekly classes and workshops.

We also stock wool.

No.1 St Teilo Street Pontarddulais Swansea, SA4 8TH 01792 886 986 melanie.1971@live.co.uk

NORTHALLERTONAmble Pin Cushion AdNORTHWICH Cheshire 46x50mm AW.indd 1 13/05/2016 Your NEW one stop sewing shop!

Sewing workshops in dressmaking and crafts for all ages and abilities, Singer sewing machine sales and parts , Fabrics and haberdashery, Patterns and in-house pattern cutter.

SOUTHAMPTON

The Sew Easy Sewing Shop Need haberdashery in Northwich?

Look no further than Sew Easy! We’ve a huge selection of fabric, needlecraft, sewing machines, patterns, and haberdashery products.

80 Witton Street, Northwich, Cheshire, CW9 5AE

07952709910 www.seweasysewingshop.co.uk

SWANSEA

WORTHING

A Good Yarn A friendly quilting and knitting shop,

Fabulous fabrics for patchwork, dressmaking & crafts.

2 Purlieu Court, Beaulieu Road Dibden Purlieu, Southampton Hampshire SO45 4PX Tel; 02381 783386 Monday – Friday 9-5pm Saturday 9-4pm www.newforestfabrics.co.uk

WEST SUSSEX

WORTHING

A family run business based in Ulverston, the Lake District, housing over 500 fabrics.

Running sewing classes from beginners to patchwork & quilting and lampshade making. Also making unique childrens clothing.

A friendly quilting and knitting shop, we have a large stock of quilting fabrics and notions.

• Servicing and repairs on all makes and we have a large stock of quilting models of sewing machines from £40 fabrics and notions.

• Local agent for Brother and Juki machines • Fabrics library and sewing accessories We run knowledgeable weekly classesservice and workshops.

• Friendly,

We also stock wool.

1 The Broadway, St Teilo Street Brighton No.1 Road Pontarddulais Worthing,Swansea, SA4 8TH BN11 3EG01792 886 986 T: 01903 200771 melanie.1971@live.co.uk E: katybobbin@gmail.com

SHEFFIELD

11-12 George Arcade, South Molton, Devon, EX36 3AB, 01769 574071 2 Market Street, Patchwork andUlverston, quilting supplies.

LA12 7AY Classes and247workshops.

07742 179 or 07815 691 258 Open 9am - 5pm Monday to Saturday thelittlekraftshed@gmail.com www.stepbystep-quilts.co.uk

08:42

PRESTON HAMPSHIRE ®

www.sewcreative.org.uk

fabulous fabrics, haberdashery, Welcome toworkshops my lovely craft emporium! & more We have lots of crafty goodies for sale 20-22 Lavant Street, PETERSFIELD, however support, inspiration and the GU32 3EW serviceHampshire, with a smile are free!

T: 01730 858020

Open 9.00am - 5.30pm E: info@sewcreative.org.uk Monday to Saturday 68 Berry Lane, Longridge, Preston, PR3 3WH 01772 780 883 www.itsofsewcrafty.com

TEWKESBURY

to advertise in call NOUNE on 0161 474 6997

ONLINE

42 www.quiltnow.co.uk

7 High St, Storrington, W Sussex, RH20 4DR 01903 746204 We stock a wide variery of patchwork and dressmaking fabrics, as well as wools, cottons, and embroidery silks. We also offer an extensive range of haberdashery products.

www.sew-something.co.uk

Sheffield’s newest independent sewing • Servicing and repairs on all makes and store. We stock a wide range of fabrics, models of sewing machines from £40 including QN34.P40.indd 42 Michael Miller, Riley Blake and • Local agent for Brother and Juki machines Tula Pink. We also offer classes in a • Fabrics library and sewing accessories variety of crafts.

• Friendly, knowledgeable service 1a Arundel Road Sheffield 1 The Broadway, S35 2RB Brighton Road 0114 2455996 handmadehappyhare Worthing, @yahoo.co.uk BN11 3EG

T: 01903 200771 E: katybobbin@gmail.com

www.handmadehappyhare.com

Molly Felicity Designs original designs made with you in mind Like our fabrics but want to make something yourself? Molly Felicity Designs are now offering vintage inspired fabrics and prints so you can create something wonderful yourself

www.mollyfelicitydesigns.com www.lovesewingmag.co.uk 77

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We love

HOME

MATERIALS & TOOLS: • 2x10� vinyl for the casing • 11� square vinyl for the outer • 11� square quilting cotton for the lining & outer pocket lining • 6x11� Vlieseline H630 or Pellon 987F low-loft fleece • 10� square fusible Vlieseline G700 or Pellon Shapeflex woven interfacing • 120mm flex frame • metal anorak snap (optional) • templates downloaded from www.lovesewingmag.co.uk

CUTTING: From casing fabric, cut: • 2 2x4ž� pieces From outer fabric, cut: • 2 5½� squares for main outer • 1 pocket • 1 pocket flap From fusible fleece, cut: • 2 2x4ž� pieces From fusible woven interfacing, cut: • 2 5½� squares for main outer • 1 pocket • 1 pocket flap

PENNY pincher These fab little snap pouches are great for storing loose change, a couple of cards and a key. They're great stash busters too, so are easy on the pocket!

Project KATY CAMERON The Littlest Thistle

A

B

C

D

E

F

NOTES: Finished size is 5x5½�

Seam allowance is Ÿ� unless otherwise stated

HOW TO MAKE: Apply fusible woven interfacing to the relevant pieces following the manufacturer’s instructions.

Take the casing pieces and fold the short ends over by Ÿ� towards the back of the casing piece. (See Pic A).

If using vinyl, baste the fleece to the back of the outer pieces with an 1⠄8� seam allowance. If using fabric, fuse following the manufacturer’s instructions.

For the large dimensional purse, cut a ½� square from

each of the bottom corners of the lining pieces.

Take the pocket flap and pocket flap lining pieces and place RST, matching all edges.

Leaving a 2� turning gap in the top edge, stitch together all the way around. Clip the curves,

turn RS out and use a chopstick or similar to poke the corners square. Repeat with the pocket piece. (See pics B and C.) Top-stitch the top edge of the pocket 1⠄8� from the edge, then take the male part of the snap and insert it in the

centre, ž� down from the top edge as per manufacturer’s instructions. (See pics D and E.) Place the pocket on one of the outer pieces, centred and 1� up from the bottom edge. Top-stitch around the side and bottom edges 1⠄8�

Katy says...

There are a lot of steps in these little purses, but once you’ve made one you’ll be making them for everyone! They're so handy for using up your favourite scraps

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G

H

I

J

from the edge. You can use Washi tape to hold the vinyl in place when stitching as you can sew over it and tear it away easily. A Teflon rolling foot when top stitching on vinyl is also useful.

(See Pic F.) Take the pocket flap and top-stitch around the side and bottom edges 1⁄8” from the edge. Take the remaining part of the snap and insert it 1” down from the top edge of the flap.

Snap the flap onto the pocket and, ensuring the top edge is aligned with the top edge of the outer piece, topstitch in place. This ensures that the snap will meet correctly. (See pics G and H.) Take one of the casing pieces and fold in half, WST. Centre it on the top edge

of one of the outer pieces sure to match the outer sides and then baste in place at and the lining sides. Leave a 1⁄8” from the edge. Repeat 3” turning gap in the bottom with the remaining casing edge of the lining, then sew and outer pieces. around the edges. (See pics I Take one outer and J.) Turn the purse through and one lining piece the turning gap that and place RST, you left, tuck the matching top lining inside raw edges the outer and and keeping press the the casing A roller foot can casing away tucked be helpful to avoid from both down the vinyl sticking as the lining between and the outer. the two, you feed it under Top-stitch then stitch the machine around the top together. edge of the main Repeat with the purse (not the casing) remaining outer and 1⁄8” from the seam. lining pieces.

Insert the flex frame into Open out the pieces the casings following the and finger-press the seam manufacturer’s instructions to towards the lining. Place finish the purse. the pieces RST, making

Top tip

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ASK THE EXPERTS

Unlined jacket

Sew-along Part 4

Alison Smith MBE finishes our latest sew-along for an unlined wool jacket; the perfect transitional spring piece!

I

hope you've enjoyed our latest sew-along. This is the final instalment and it’s now time to join the assembled facing to the jacket and finish everything.

You’ll remember in part 3 we joined the under collar to the front neckline edges, then clipped open the seam allowance and stitched the inner neckline seam. The allowances should have been graded and pressed open ready to attach to the jacket body. Are you ready to begin?

In this issue Alison shows us how to finish our unlined jacket flawlessly 80 www.lovesewingmag.co.uk

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Hand-sew sleeve lining into the armhole from above

Add interfacing to the hem before hand stitching

Pick up your copy of New Look 6035 from www.simplicitynewlook.com.

Priced £6.95, this multi-pattern pack includes options for two styles of jacket, top, trouser and a skirt FINAL ASSEMBLY

With right sides together attach the upper and under collar together first and then stitch around the front facings. Take care to pivot at the corners and dots for the rever and collar corners. Layer the seam allowances and clip the curves. To reduce bulk, trim the corners from the rever and collar at a 45˚ angle. Turn everything to the right side and press with a pressing cloth and tailor’s clapper if you have one (the clapper will hold the steam into the jacket, ensuring a neat press).

On the inside of the neckline, under the back lining, pin then hand-stitch along the seam line to hold the layers together, and prevent the under collar from rolling out.

FINISHING THE SLEEVES

Insert shoulder pads, lining up the edge of the shoulder pad to the armhole, and handstitch in place. These aren’t always necessary but help give the sleeve structure and prevents the fabric sagging in on itself.

Align the front facing and the back lining around the armhole and tack to the armhole, remembering to stitch through the shoulder pad to keep everything secure. All these raw edges will be covered by the sleeve lining.

SLEEVE LINING

Sew a row or two of ease stitching through the lining sleeve heads and manoeuvre the sleeve into position, matching the underarm seams and notches. Roll under the seam allowance and pin the lining sleeve in place around the armhole, pulling up the ease stitches as required. Hand-stitch, securing to the armhole seam allowance. Next, it’s time to construct our hems.

HEMS

Fuse a strip of interfacing through the hem of the jacket approximately 6cm wide.

Turn up the hem then steam into a soft fold. Heavy pressing would make the hem allowance show through on the right side of the garment.

Hand-stitch the hem into place using a catch stitch, secured on the edge of the interfacing.

This way the stitches and hem should not be too heavy or show on the right side. Repeat on the outer sleeve hem and then turn the lining hem to sit just above this on the inside and hand-stitch into position as before.

Sew through the seam layers to stop the collar rolling out

The finishing touch is to make a buttonhole and attach a special button! Give your jacket a final press before wearing and enjoying your completed garment.

ABOUT ALISON SMITH Awarded an MBE for her services to dressmaking, Alison is an industry expert in classic couture and a published author.

Alison has her own shop and line of patterns, and you can also learn with Alison at one of her exclusive workshops. Find out more on her site www.schoolofsewing.co.uk

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NEW!

Temptations Craft Boutique An Aladdin's cave full of fabrics including Cotton Poplins, Linens, Wool Tweeds & Polyesters 100% Cottons for Patchwork and Quilting Knitting yarn and haberdashery Courses and workshops Agents for Brother Sewing Machines Visit our shop or buy safely online 31 Main Street, Bentham, North Yorkshire, LA2 7HQ Tel: 015242 61868 www.temptationsbentham.co.uk For shop opening times please see our website

W W W. L I S A C O M F O R T. S H O P

01903 746204

www.sewcreative.org.uk

ÂŽ

fabulous fabrics, haberdashery, sewing machines, workshops & sew much more 20-22 Lavant Street, Petersfield, Hampshire, GU32 3EW

T: 01730 858 020 E: info@sewcreative.org.uk

7 High Street, Storrington, West Sussex, RH20 4DR

Facebook: /sewsomething haberdashery Sewing Courses Sewing Machine Repairs Dress Fabrics Patchwork Fabrics

STOP CUTTING PAPER PIECES START SEWING www.linapatchwork.com sales@linapatchwork.com 01304 239654 (9-12 weekdays)

- precut paper pieces - acrylic templates - pattern packs & EPP books - EPP sewing notions

The one stop shop for all of your English Paper Piecing needs!

Sew something is a haberdashery shop on the main high street in the beautiful village of Storrington.

We stock a wide variety of patchwork and dressmaking fabrics, as well as wools, cottons and embroidery silks. We also offer an extensive range of haberdashery products. Butterick patterns are available to order in store. In our own workshop we run a range of courses from the complete novice to the more accomplished crafters.

sew_something_storrington@yahoo.co.uk

www.sew-something.co.uk

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READERS'

Suernsdnaupss! yo

£25 TO WIN A

Get in touch letters@lovesewingmag.co.uk

Lorna asked you on Facebook…

DLE FABRIC BUN VA FROM MINER CRAFTS

If your sewing fairy godmother could grant you one wish would it be – Karen

Jayne

“Hello! I’ve attached a picture of my ruffle dress from issue 48.

I’m really pleased with how this turned out, and I’ve already worn it for a night out. The frill idea is great – gives you lots of options for contrasting! Hope you like it!” – We think it looks fabulous!

Star make

A NEW SEWING MACHINE 49%

A NEW OVERLOCKER 51%

Jayne has made this adorable elephant toy that we featured in issue 48, she said: “I thought I’d send you this picture of the elephant made by me and my granddaughter, Sienna, who is eight. It shows her design and the finished toy.”

Frances

Frances has mad e this adorable dress, sh e said: “I made this dress for my four-yea r-old granddaughter.

My mum taught me to se w and knit, I fell in love with sewi again after she die ng d six years ago.”

Katja

Katja looks lovely in her version of the Amelia tea dress from issue 28, she said: “I am very happy with how this dress turned out. The fabric that I found suits the pattern so well and I have received so many compliments on it.” Check out more of Katja’s lovely makes at www.withmyhandsdream.com

You said...

Sandra Jenkinson: “I've had my 'new home' sewing machine for over 30 years and it is still going strong apart from the back stitch! I would however like an overlocker as it would be so much easier to neaten edges.”

Patricia Torrie: “I would love a coverstitch machine, that would be my greatest wish. I have a Janome overlocker and an Elna sewing machine. Both are well used!”

Alison Russell: “My sewing machine is a Janome XL601, I love it but it's getting a bit worn. My overlocker is new (I only got it two months ago), it's a Janome 6234XL and I wish I'd bought one sooner!” www.lovesewingmag.co.uk 83

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PATTERN

Here's looking

AT NEW! Join us for a look at the newest releases from the Simplicity spring/summer collection

Amazing lace Simplicity 8599. Dreaming of a romantic evening, special event or just a night out with the girls? Cynthia Rowley has created a modern take on the classic little black lace dress by adding bell sleeves and a wide boat neckline.

Sitting comfortably?

Simplicity 8605. The paper-bag waist, fabric ties and flowing silhouette of this trouser and skirt pattern make them easy to wear and easy to sew! We love the maxi skirt option, perfect for breezy fabric like viscose or Tana lawn.

See the full collection of new patterns at WWW.SIMPLICITYNEWLOOK.COM now!

Prices start at ÂŁ8.25. P&P charges apply.

84 www.lovesewingmag.co.uk

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Mr Tee Simplicity 8613. Short on sewing time and looking for a quick make? Try the latest men's pattern from Mimi G. We love this placement of prints – it's perfect for scraps.

Co-ordinating couple's outfits anyone?

All wrapped up Simplicity 8612. Beautiful and simple, this multi-view wrap skirt pack from Project Runway star Ashley Nell Tipton is made special with clever pleating and frill details. Available exclusively in plus sizes.

Got it tied up

Simplicity 8601. Try a tie-front top with your jeans this spring. The slightly longer length means you won't be revealing more than you expect and this style will work in so many types of fabric and prints or plains!

Think pink

Simplicity 8591. Vintage lovers will swoon for this 1960s dress reissue with gorgeous ruffle sleeves, banded hem, self belt and optional Peter Pan collar. Simply frilling! www.lovesewingmag.co.uk 85

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To advertise please contact Noune on 0161 474 6997 or email noune.sarkissian@ practicalpublishing.co.uk

86 www.lovesewingmag.co.uk

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MACHINE

REVIEW

Franklins boasts a wealth of experience in the sewing industry, we take a look at some of its latest machines

BEST FOR NEW OVERLOCKER USERS

JANOME 9300DX If you’re ready to take your sewing to the next level the Janome 9300DX is a great introductory overlocker. This approachable and compact machine boasts a fantastic range of features including a colour-coded threading system, built-in easy roll hem conversion and differential feed so you can adapt the machine to the project you are working on. Easily adjust the cutting width, seam width and stitch length and enjoy hours of fluid stitching with the help of the electronic speed controller system. The machine also comes with an informative DVD to help you make the most of this fantastic machine.

Lorna

R UNDE

£600

BEST FOR THE ALL-ROUNDER

UNDER

£300

BEST FOR EXPERIENCED SEWISTS

BROTHER CV3550 DOUBLE-SIDED COVERSTITCH MACHINE Achieve professional results quickly with the Brother CV3550 coverstitch machine. This sophisticated model allows sewists to create a variety of double-sided coverstitches including a triple coverstitch and three additional top coverstitches. The machine features an impressive two-needle three-thread chain stitch ideal for hemming and top-stitching. You will be able to redistribute your fabric quickly with the help of the one-touch tension-release system which lifts the presser foot lever so all thread tensions are released simultaneously. The cover spreading threader will enable you to set the machine up quickly, and with a maximum speed to 1,000 stitches per minute, projects can be completed in no time. The machine also boasts a large workspace but is also lightweight and compact so you can take it with you on the go.

Bethany

BERNINA 1300 MDC COMBI OVERLOCKER AND COVERSTICH Why decide between an overlocker and coverstitch machine when you can have both? This groundbreaking model from Bernina features the patented micro-thread control system which allows you to easily manipulate the over-edge thread length for any of the 24 built-in stitches. Similarly, the Bernina’s patented front foot lift means bulky fabric can be easily positioned and allows you to work more efficiently. You can enjoy the luxury of a large workspace perfect for bulky projects. Sewists will also appreciate the automatic safety switch when opening the looper or free-arm cover, ideal when threading up or changing threads. The LCD screen clearly displays all the important details – from stitch parameters to recommended thread tension – at every stage of your project and your key settings will save automatically for next time.

Amy

ND AROU

£1,000 www.lovesewingmag.co.uk 87

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STITCHER'S STORY

Thread

THERAPY Skilled hand embroiderer and tutor Marna Lunt shares her stitching plans and explains how embroidery and taking time out for making can aid mental wellbeing 88 www.lovesewingmag.co.uk

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Marna

T

he Yorkshire Moors are a huge influence on me and my artistic approach. As my work is focused heavily on texture and colour, the landscape of the Moors has been the way I learnt about the many many layers contained in an image and how the subtlety of tiny details of colour are so important to the overall feeling of a piece.

Sadly I don’t live there any longer but it is my childhood home and my family still lives there.

I have my fingers in many pies but my main project is Guiding Lights, which is a collaboration with my best friend.

Together we are making a range of artwork focusing on the guiding lights of women that have empowered us. I am creating hand-embroidered portraits of incredible women stitched into lampshade frames with Andy Poplar from Vinegar & Brown Paper, etching clever phrases or quotes onto beautiful antique items. For example, I have stitched Sylvia Plath and he has etched a large bell jar with a quote from the book on it. When lit up, the jar lets the light shine beautifully through the stitches and really brings the piece to life. I have stitched Vivienne Westwood, Frida Kahlo and Amelia Earhart so far.

Marna's stunning Vivienne Westwood piece

ABOUT

Marna Lunt

Marna is a fine artist turned hand embroiderer based in North Yorkshire.

She offers online embroidery courses, downloadable patterns and relaxing embroidery retreats to soothe the soul. Find out more at www.embroiderycourse.co.uk

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The tactile nature of hand embroidery is the most exciting part. As a child we draw comfort from a quilt or soft toy and the feel of it is soothing and makes us feel safe. I still have my baby blanket and the wellbeing this piece of fabric brings is incredible. So from that comfort and my background in fine art it seemed a natural progression to go more into embroidery.

Hand stitching is so versatile – I use it as a new medium to paint with. I’m interested in the colours that can be produced, the different surfaces that different materials can create and the texture of the overall piece.

This is the last year of my retreats as I am taking a break from them due to ill health. They were designed on the concept of thread therapy – a place you can retreat to in peace. You can relax with likeminded people and stitch, be fed and meet new people.

Most of my workshops sell out very quickly so obviously many people feel they need a moment of piece and calm and are looking for the feeling of wellbeing that the repetitive nature of hand stitching can give us. I will still be giving private workshops from my home studio for small groups.

The tactile nature of hand embroidery is the most exciting part

I find mindfulness impossible; my brain sings loudly at me and I can’t relax, so I needed to find a different way to experience the inner peace meditation gives you.

Stitching has given me that – I need to feel calm yet still feel like I’m doing something constructive. People think you have to have a lot of patience to embroider but I have none; I think it’s more about the act of sewing and what you discover about yourself as you do it. My advice to beginners is to give it a go and, if you want to get better, come to one of my workshops!

Over the next few months I will be exhibiting at fairs. Later in the year I’ll be updating my website and have many venues planned to travel to to teach.

Another focus are my online courses, which have been a huge success. I plan to bring in lots more project-based courses to inspire my students. You'll also find me on BBC iPlayer in the recent BBC Four TV series MAKE! Craft Britain.

Hand stitching can create amazing texture

Embroidery is a learning process that takes time. Good embroiderers make it look simple so people think it must be easy. It’s not easy to create a work of art but it is easy to be involved and to feel good. It’s important to not be hard on yourself and to enjoy the process – see each piece as a journey that takes you a bit closer to where you want to go.

03/04/2018 16:16

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We love

STYLE

GREEN

with envy Loose fitting with two big side pockets and an elasticated back waistband, the Elsie wide-legged trousers are comfortable as well as practical Project FIONA HESFORD Sewgirl

Shopping list Pine laundered linen, ÂŁ19 per metre www.merchantandmills.com

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MATERIALS & TOOLS: • 1.5m (S & M) or 1.7m (L) of 150cmwide linen, chambray or similar weight woven fabric • 35mm-wide elastic cut to 29cm (S), 34cm (M) or 39cm (L) • 15cm lightweight fusible interfacing • safety pin or bodkin • templates downloaded from www.lovesewingmag.co.uk

NOTES: Use a 1cm seam allowance unless instructed otherwise Finish raw edges with a zigzag stitch or overlocker Finished length: 80cm from top of waistline

HOW TO MAKE: 1 Sew front pieces together RST at the CF curved edge.

Press to one side. Sew back pieces together RST at CB curved edge. Press as before.

2 On the RS pin the pleats at the top edge of the front pieces, using the template as a guide. Hand-tack in place and double-check the pleats are even across the assembled front. (See Pic A.) 3 Pin the pocket lining pieces to each front at the curved pocket edges RST. (See Pic B.) 4 Sew and turn to WS then press. Top-stitch on RS close to the edge.

5 Flip the pocket lining back up and pin the pocket to the lining and sew around the outer curved edge. Finish the raw edges. (See Pic C.) 6 Tack-stitch the pocket at the top and side edge to hold them in position. (See Pic D.) 7 Pin front to back at sides and sew together. Finish raw edges.

Stitching

PRETTY Using an overcasting foot is a great way to finish the raw edges of your fabric without an overlocker. You'll need to locate the right stitch on your machine and buy a foot specific to your model.

SIZING: 8-10

12-14

16-18

WAIST

26-27"

65-69cm

29-31"

74-79cm

33-35"

84-89cm

HIPS

35-37"

90-94cm

39-41"

99-104cm

43-45"

109-114cm

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LAYPLAN: 150cm-wide fabric without nap

A

B

C

D

E

F

8 Pin front to back at inside leg. Sew together and finish the raw edges.

9 Fuse interfacing to the WS of the front waistband.

With RST sew the front and back waistband together at the short ends, to make a ‘ring’. Press seams open.

Fold the waistband in half lengthways, matching raw edges and press a crease.

Sew elastic into the back waistband by sewing onto

the side seam allowance aligned under the fold line you created in the previous step. (See Pic E.) Pin the waistband to trouser waist, matching the side seams. Tackstitch to hold in place.

(See Pic F.) Sew then finish the raw edge. Remove tacking and press the band upwards.

Finish the leg hem raw edges. Press a single-fold hem and top-stitch to finish.

Top tip

Laundered linen continues to soften over time. You don't need to iron this fabric as it's meant to look worn, but you can tumble-dry it!

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A handpicked collection of fabrics... delivered to your door

www.misformake.co.uk www.lovesewingmag.co.uk 95

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Plus much more!

M7547

Inspiring articles, projects and guides: P Cool cats machine cover P Simple Sew petal-sleeve top P Perfect gifts for Father's Day P Custom-printed fabric masterclass with Jen Hewitt P Patrick Grant's TEDx talk

JEANS AND OVERALLS: Close-fitting jeans JEANS and overalls have faux fly ET SALOPETTES: Jeans front, lapped zipper side et salopettes moulants à fausse braguette opening, patch pocket, and devant, ouverture latérale leg variations. A, B, C: à fermeture sous-patte, poche plaquée et variations Carriers. C, D: Purchased de jambe. A, B, C: Passants. overall buckle kit.

C, D: Kit de boucle acheté pour salopette.

JEANS Y OVEROLES PARA JÓVENES Y SEÑORAS: Jeans dos con bragueta simulada y overoles ceñien el frente, abertura lateral con cremallera, bolsillo de parche y variaciones de pierna. A, B, C: Presillas de correa. C, D: Kit de hebilla comprada para overol.

Combinations: A5(6-8-10-12-14 ), E5(14-16-18-20-22) SUGGESTED FABRICS: Stretch Denim, Stretch Wovens, Twill, Denim.

SIZES 6 8 10 12 14 16 18 20 A 45"* 22 2≥ 2≥ 2≥ 2≥ 2≥ 2≥ 2≥ 2≥ 60"* 2≥ 2 2 2 2 2∑ 2∑ 2∞ 2∞ B 45"* 2∫ 2∫ 2∫ 2∫ 2∫ 2∫ 2∫ 2∫ 2∫ 60"* 2∫ 1∫ 1∫ 1∫ 1∫ 2 2∂ 2∑ 2∞ 2∫ C 45"* 1≤ 1≤ 1∑ 1∑ 1∑ 1∫ 1∫ 1≥ 60"* 1π 1 1∂ 1∂ 1∂ 1∂ 1∂ 1∑ 1∑ 1∑ D 45"* 2≥ 2≥ 2≥ 2≥ 2≥ 2≥ 3≤ 3≤ 60"* 3≤ 2∂ 2∂ 2∂ 2∂ 2∂ 2∞ 2∞ 2∫ FUSIBLE INTERFACING 2∫ A, B, C, D 18", 20" 1 1 1 1∂ 1∂ 1∂ 1≤ 1≤ 1∑ NOTIONS: A, B, C, D: One 7" Zipper, One ∫" Button.

C, D: One Overall Buckles with No-sew Buttons.

A

42∞ 44∞ 46∞ 48∞

23∞ 24 14∞ 15

42 39 13

42 39 13

Séries/Combinaciones: A5(6-8-10-12-14 ), E5(14-16-18-20-22) TISSUS CONSEILLÉS: Denim extensible, Tissus tissés extensibles, Twill, Denim.

TELAS SUGERIDAS: Denim extensible, Telas tejidas extensibles, Twill, Denim.

TAILLES/TALLAS 6 8 10 12 14 16 Yds. A 115cm* 18 20 22 2.60 2.60 2.60 2.60 2.60 2.60 " 2.60 2.60 2.60 m 150cm* 1.90 1.90 1.90 1.90 2.20 2.20 2.30 2.30 2.40 Yds. B 115cm* m 2.40 2.40 2.40 2.40 2.40 2.40 2.40 2.40 2.40 m " 150cm* 1.50 1.50 1.50 1.50 1.90 2.00 2.20 2.30 2.40 Yds. C 115cm* m 1.20 1.20 1.30 1.30 1.30 1.50 1.50 1.60 1.80 " 150cm* m 1.00 1.10 1.10 1.10 1.10 1.10 1.30 1.30 1.30 Yds. D 115cm* m 2.60 2.60 2.60 2.60 2.60 2.60 3.00 3.00 3.00 " 150cm* m 2.00 2.00 2.00 2.00 2.00 2.30 2.30 2.40 2.40 ENTOILAGE THERMOCOLLA m NT/ENTRETELA TERMOADHESI Yds. D 46, VA 51cm A, B, C, 1.00 1.00 1.00 1.10 1.10 1.10 Pair of MERCERIE: A, B, 1.20 1.20 1.30 m C, D: 1 Fermeture à glissière de 18cm, 1 Bouton de 16mm.

C, D: 1 paire de Boucles de salopette à boutons sans couture.

MERCERÍA: A, B, C, D: 1 Cremallera de 18cm, 1 Botón de 16mm. C, D: 1 par de Hebillas para overol con botones de aplicación sin costura.

MESURES DU VÊTEMENT FINI/MEDIDAS DE LA PRENDA Mesure aux hanches/Contor ACABADA no de caderas Ins. A, B, C, D 89 92 94 98 103 108 113 118 123 Largeur, chaque jambe/Ancho, cm cada pierna A, D 54 55 56 57 59 60 61 B, C 62 64 cm 31 32 33 34 36 37 38 Longueur - côté, taille à 40 41 cm l’ourlet/Largo del costado desde la cintura A, D 107 107 107 107 107 107 107 107 107 B cm 99 99 99 99 99 99 99 C 99 99 cm 33 33 33 33 33 33 33 33 33 cm ou Sans Sens " " "

42 39 13

" "

24∞ 25 15∞ 16

42 39 13

*Avec Sens **Sans Sens ***Avec

*Con Pelillo **Sin Pelillo ***Con

o Sin Pelillo

B6164

EASY/FACILE

M7547

FINISHED GARMENT MEASUREMENT S Measurement at hipline A, B, C, D 35 36 37 38∞ 40∞ Width, each leg A, D 21 21∞ 22 22∞ 23 B, C 12 12∞ 13 13∞ 14 Side length from waist A, D 42 42 42 42 42 B 39 39 39 39 39 C 13 13 13 13

13 *With Nap **Without Nap ***With or Without Nap

C

A

B

C

B

D

Copyright© 2017, The McCall

D

Pattern Co., 120 Broadway, New York 10271, All Rights Reserved.

Printed in U.S.A. Trademarks Reg. Sold for individual home use U.S. Pat. & TM Off. Marca Registrada only and not for commercial or manufacturing purposes. www.mccallpattern Reserve à un usage personnel. .com Utilisation commerciale ou industrielle strictement interdite.

A

B

BUTTERICK PATTERN, 120 BROADWAY,

C

NEW YORK 10271 © 2015 The McCall Pattern

SOLD FOR INDIVIDUAL HOME USE

Co.

• www.butterick.com

ONLY AND NOT FOR COMMERCIAL

• PRINTED IN U.S.A. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED.PURPOSE RESERVE Á UN USAGE PERSONNEL.

OR MANUFACTURING

M7547_ENV

A5/E5 ( 6 - 2 2 )

M7547

SIZE/ TAILLE

plissé, semi-ajusté, ROBE : Robe à corsage doublé, lined bodice tissu, taille haute, passants, DRESS: Dress has semi-fitted, pleated, pinces piquées sur l’endroit du fabric, raised waist, carriers, à et fermeture à glissière with darts stitched on right side of manches en deux parties et doublées, zipper. two-piece, lined sleeves, and back dos.

Séries: A5(6-8-10-12-14), E5(14-16-18-20-22) tissés de poid E5(14-16-18-20-22) et des tissus Combinations: A5(6-8-10-12-14), Créé pour des tricots stables and stable knit fabrics.

Designed for lightweight woven léger.

Peachskin.

Peau de pêche.

FABRICS: Challis, Crepe, Jersey, TISSUS: Etamine, Crêpe, Jersey, pas.

Unsuitable for obvious diagonals.

Grandes diagonales ne conviennent *With Nap. **Without Nap. *Avec Sens. **Sans Sens.

22 16 18 20 14 10 12 8 6 TAILLES 22 16 18 20 14 3.00 3.40 3.40 3.40 3.40 10 12 8 6 SIZES A 115cm*/** 3.00 3.00 3.00 3.00 3∫ 3∫ 3∫ 2.10 2.20 2.20 2.30 2.30 3≤ 3≤ 3≤ 3≤ 3≤ 3∫ A 45"*/** 150cm*/** 1.90 1.90 2.10 2.10 2∞ 2.90 2≤ 2≤ 2≤ 2∑ 2∑ 2∞ 2 2.60 2.60 2.60 2.90 2.90 2.90 2 2.60 2.60 60"*/** 115cm* B 3∂ 3∂ 3∂ 2.20 2.20 2.20 2.20 2.20 2≥ 2≥ 2≥ 2≥ 2≥ 3∂ B 45"* 115cm** 2.20 2.20 2.20 2.20 2∑ 2∑ 2∑ 2.20 2.20 2.20 2∑ 2∑ 2∑ 2∑ 2∑ 2∑ 1.80 1.90 1.90 2.00 2.00 2.20 45"** 150cm* 2∂ 2∂ 2∑ 2∑ 2∑ 2∑ 1.60 1.60 1.60 1.80 1.80 2 1π 2 60"* 150cm** 1.50 1.50 1.50 1.60 1≥ 1π 1π 1∫ 1∫ 1∫ 1≥ 1≥ 1≥ 60"** CONTRASTE B 0.80 0.80 1.00 1.00 1.00 CONTRAST B 115cm*/** 0.80 0.80 0.80 0.80 1 1 1 π π π 0.70 0.70 0.70 0.70 0.80 π π π 45"*/** 150cm*/** 0.60 0.60 0.70 0.70 π ≥ ≥ ≥ ≥ ≥ ≥ ∫ ∫ 60"*/** DOUBLURE A, B 1.00 1.00 1.00 0.80 0.80 0.80 0.80 0.80 0.80 LINING A, B 115cm 1 1 1 π π π 3.50 3.70 3.70 3.80 3.80 π π π 45" C 115cm* 3.20 3.40 3.40 3.50 4∂ 4∂ 4 3.00 3.50 3.50 3.60 3.60 3∞ 3∫ 3∫ 3≥ 3≥ 4 C 45"* 115cm** 2.90 2.90 2.90 2.90 3≥ 3π 3π 2.70 2.80 2.90 3.00 3.00 3∂ 3∂ 3∂ 3∂ 3≤ 3≥ 45"** 150cm* 2.40 2.60 2.60 2.70 3∂ 3≤ 3≤ 2.20 2.30 2.30 2.30 2.40 2∫ 2≥ 2≥ 2π 2π 3 60"* 150cm** 2.10 2.10 2.10 2.10 2∞ 2∞ 2∫ 2≤ 2≤ 2≤ 2≤ 2∑ 2∞ 60"** DOUBLURE C 1.50 1.50 1.60 1.30 1.30 1.30 1.30 1.30 1.50 LINING C 115cm 1∫ 1∫ 1≥ de 55cm, Agrafe, 1 Ceinture 1∑ 1∑ 1∑ 1∑ 1∑ 1∫ 45" MERCERIE: Fermeture à Glissière Eye, One Purchased Belt.

NOTIONS: 22" Zipper, Hook and achetée.

MESURES DU VÊTEMENT FINI l’ourlet FINISHED GARMENT MEASUREMENTS Longueur - dos, votre nuque à 104 105 105 100 101 102 102 103 103 Back length from base of neck 41 41≤ 41∞ A, B, C 39∞ 39≥ 40 40≤ 40∞ 40≥ A, B, C

Pleated day dress McCall's 7547 trousers & dungarees Butterick 6164 D

A B

C A B

C

A5/E5 ( 6 - 2 2 ) SIZE/ TAILLE

Butterick BODY MEASUREMENTS/MESURES/ME DIDAS DEL CUERPO SIZES/TAILLES/TALLAS 6 8 10 12 14 16 Bust 18 30∞ 31∞ 32∞ 34 36 38 Waist 40 23 24 25 26∞ 28 30 Hip 32 32∞ 33∞ 34∞ 36 38 40 Back Waist Length 42 15∞ 15≥ 16 16≤ 16∞ 16≥ 17

Poitrine/Busto 77 80 Taille/Cintura 58 61 Hanches/Caderas 83 85 Longueur dos/Largo espalda 39.5 40

B6164

20 22 42 44 Ins. 34 37 Ins. 44 46 Ins. 17≤ 17∞ Ins.

worth over £18

M7547

83 87 92 64 67 71 88 92 97 40.5 41.5 42

97 102 107 112 cm 76 81 87 94 cm 102 107 112 117 cm 42.5 43 44 44.5 cm

77 58 83

Poitrine Taille Hanches

6 30∞ 23 32∞

SIZES/TAILLES Bust Waist Hip

10 32∞ 25 34∞

8 31∞ 24 33∞

12 34 26∞ 36 87 67 92

83 64 88

80 61 85

18 40 32 42

16 38 30 40

14 36 28 38

97 76 102

92 71 97

102 81 107

20 42 34 44 107 87 112

22 44 37 46 112 94 117

B6164

Butterick

PATTERNS YELLOW MAGENTA CYAN

BLACK

YELLOW MAGENTA CYAN BLACK

TWO FREE T H E U K ’ S N O .1 S E W I N G M A G A Z I N E

Next month in

6-22 Sizes

ISSUE 53 ON SALE 10TH MAY 2018 Trousers and dungarees

SIZES 6-22

Pretty patchwork

LIBERTY ROSE

Red phone box

MOBILE CASE

See page 26 for our subscriber offer!

Printed-fabric

TUNIC DRESS y Gardiner Top tips and techniques from Claire-Louise Hardie P Expert guidance from Wend P In-depth articles from Wendy Ward P Clever tutorials from Elisalex de Castro Peake P Couture masterclass with Alison Smith MBE P Behind the scenes with Jade Earley *All contents subject to change.

LS52 Next Issue.indd 97

03/04/2018 14:05

We love

HOOPS

PRICKLY customer

This design is great for those who can’t keep a plant alive.

The spiky two-tone succulent looks clean and modern in its beautiful gold geometric terrarium Project RENEE ROMINGER

MATERIALS & TOOLS: • 8"-square cream medium-weight backing fabric • felt • 6" (15cm) round hoop • Vlieseline H640 fusible interfacing • FriXion marker • dark brown (primary), Dark Cocoa brown (secondary), medium green, light green & gold stranded embroidery floss • templates downloaded from www.lovesewingmag.co.uk

be using all six strands of the floss for the satin stitch. Leave the gold terrarium for last.

Stitch the dirt in a diagonal pattern, using lighter brown floss first. Come back in with a few lines stitched using the

ABOUT THE BOOK

NOTES: Stitch design with six strands of floss

HOW TO MAKE: Trace the pattern onto the fabric using a FriXion marker pen and a good light source.

The pattern is a great example of how you can use satin stitch in different ways, with the dirt in the bottom of the terrarium being stitched at an angle and two tone. We’ll

Edgy Embroidery

by Renee Rominger, ÂŁ16.99 www.pagestreetpublishing.com

darker shade of brown over your existing stitches.

Start with the front leaves of the succulent, working your way back.

Once you’re done with satin stitches, take a step back and look at them. If you notice any spaces, fill them in as needed.

For the terrarium, use all six strands of metallic floss to make long, clean back stitches. You want to connect the dots at the corners of the geometric pattern. Make sure the tension between your fabric and hoop is good since these are long stitches and you don’t want them too loose.

Finish the back of the hoop by drawing up the excess fabric with a gathering stitch and covering the back with a circle of felt.

MASTERCLASS

STITCH GALLERY BACK STITCH

SATIN A ATIN STITCH

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www.janome.co.uk

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NEW MODEL

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OFFER

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SEWIST 725S Easy to use...Make the right choice first time!

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The world’s leading sewing machine manufacturer

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