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Upskill!

SKIRT GUIDE F MATCHING STRIPES F KNITS SPECIAL F EXPLORE PLEATS APR 2018 ISS 109 £5.99

The UK’s Best-selling Sewing Mag!

11 Easy-Sew Wardrobe Styles SIZES 8-20 NO PATTERN NEEDED! ESSENTIAL BRETON TOP

CLASSIC TOP & SKIRT SET MASTER KNITS AND STRIPES!

Gift ideas! FLORAL HOOP · LIBERTY HEN · SPEEDY QUILT · BABY BIBS

trust your free pattern

SEW APRIL 2018 master_SEW 23/02/2018 12:24 Page 2

Hello... April

Hello you! How is your stitching going for 2018? If it hasn’t quite got off to the flying start you’d hoped for, don’t stress. It’s never too late to turn over a new leaf, and this month’s FREE New Look pattern is sure to inspire – with five irresistible dress styles. Whatever your abilities, we all need a little expert advice sometimes. Sew columnist Tilly Walnes shows us how to match stripes on p24 – perfect for our no-pattern Breton top (p26). Over on p36, designer and author Wendy Ward sheds light on jersey fabric. Her insights are invaluable! This issue, nearly all of our dressmaking patterns are available in sizes 8-20 – and from now on, we’re aiming to offer this range in every issue of Sew. Make sure you take advantage of this by visiting sewmag.co.uk/templates to download all of this month’s patterns. If you’re looking for inspiration, you’re in good hands. We bring expertise on pleats (p47) and skirt-making (p32), plus learn about the evolution of cross stitch with Jamie Chalmers (AKA Mr X Stitch) on p76. Elsewhere, our stitchy pets special is not to be missed – whether you have a dog of your own or are stitching for an animal-lover. After, sit back and enjoy reading about a wonderful pattern brand that designs for children with SPD (p60), find out the winners of the British Sewing Awards 2017 on p58, then discover how the Queen’s elegant sense of style has never faltered (p90). We always love seeing what you’ve been making, so be sure to send your photos in to the team at editorial@ sewmag.co.uk – you could be featured on our Sew Social pages.

20% off !

Happy sewing!

Jenny

Jenny Ward, Sew editor

FIVE FAB STYLES!

Get 20% off EVERYTHING at Ray Stitch discount – including this pretty barkcloth from our top and skirt set (p41). Turn to p06!

Winner

The Sew team loved meeting the winners of The British Sewing Awards 2017 (p58)

Find out the name for 2018’s Sew Saturday mascot on page 6 – it’s very apt!

sew

free template download

sewmag.co.uk /templates

HAVE YOU GOT YOUR FREE DOWNLOADS? Look out for our FREE templates and patterns, then download and print them at

sewmag.co.uk/templates

Claim your discount off viscose fabrics at Dragonfly Fabrics over on p7.

Get in touch! Share your creations, tips and views

Highly Commended

editorial@ sewmag.co.uk

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Sew Magazine, 1 Phoenix Court, Hawkins Road, Colchester, Essex, CO2 8JY

sewmag.co.uk Welcome 109.indd 2

23/02/2018 15:48

sew

in your April issue... FIVE-PAGE PET PULLOUT

IN EVERY ISSUE 03 Welcome

What's trending in the sewing world

15 Sew social

You've been sharing your makes

39 Sew wishlist

The team's top picks for April

48 Sew & learn

TEA BREAK 52 Stuart Hillard

Come and say hello!

06 Who, what, wear

Our pick of sewing classes and tools

Our columnist gets stitchy inspiration from his garden

60 Designing for happiness

Ruth Maddock helps kids with an overwhelming condition

68 Confessions of a sewing addict

87 The books we're loving

The latest must-reads

89 Next month

Our May issue's out on 5th April

Discover this year's winners!

84 Your sewing guide Sewing jargon explained!

We love!

58 British Sewing Awards 2017

Corinne Bradd likes all aspects of her crafting to be bright!

76 How cross stitch became cool

Jamie Chalmers aka Mr X Stitch talks needlework

90 Style icon: The Queen

71 Mother Hen

KIDS

GIFTS

We examine 65 years of her regal wardrobe

61 Burp cloths & carry pouch

Keep your littl'un (and yourself!) clean

Our latest mascot is a real spring chicken!

55 Dog lead

Going for walkies has never been more stylish

56 Sidekick cape

Make fancy dress for heroic hounds!

57 Dog tug toy

Transform old T-shirts into a fun plaything

65 Everlasting bouquet

Sew a special Mother's Day gift

70 Petal drawstring bag

Fill pretty pouches with Easter treats

71 Princess crowns

Create royal headbands

78 Wildflowers hoop

Meet our mascot!

Embroider a floral hanging

83 Planter pincushion

Keep your pins safe and secure

HOME

54 Patchwork dog bed

Give your pup a comfy spot for snoozing

62 Garden pillow

Try Stuart Hillard's bright design

70 Half-hexagon quilt

Make a colourful cover

72 Susie's Stitch School

Craft a handy shopper

74 The fabric edit

Get creative with vibrant floral prints

sewmag.co.uk Contents 109.indd 4

23/02/2018 14:07

FREEBIES & OFFERS

Dressmaking 38

Sew something for a special occasion with your FREE pattern

18 Lori top

You'll love this fabric's pretty lace detail

20 Lovely lawn

Check out the new collection from Sew Over It

06 20% OFF The Sewing Cafe Get money off their great fabrics!

06 20% OFF Ray Stitch Enjoy 20% off EVERYTHING!

26 Britta Breton

Create this wardrobe staple from Ponte Roma

28 Indie pattern news

Our top picks this month

30 Stitch the look

Why have cotton when you can have satin?

31 Lauren Guthrie’s top tools ...for making skirts

32 Sewing SOS

22 Gina jacket

Combine gorgeous fabrics with your free gift for instant glamour!

pages of fashion, garments & more!

09 Five occasion dresses

20% of!*

FREE THIS MONTH!

Sew a waterfall coat from faux suede

24 Sewing with Tilly

Discover how to pattern match your stripes

The low-down on sewing your own skirts

34 Paula skirt

Make our panelled A-line design from wool felt

36 Get to know knits

20% off!*

Fall in love with stretch fabrics

41 Dotty top & skirt masterclass

Create a matching two-piece

44 Love your machine

07 20% OFF at Dragonfly Fabrics

Top sewing machines from Husqvarna Viking

Claim 20% off viscose rayons

47 Debbie Shore's show & tell

63 1 5% OFF Create and Craft Get 15% off the

51 Simplicity preview

A sneak peek at the latest designs for spring

Accuquilt GO! Baby Fabric Cutter Starter Set

66 S ubscribe today

Receive a 24 pack of assorted Coats sewing threads FREE!

80 WIN with Sew

We've got more than £1,250 worth of prizes to be won!

82 SAVE 50% reader offer

Get three craft books, six patterns and two kits for just £15!

£1,250+

PRIZES TO WIN! Enter online at

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Master the perfect pleat

Subscribe today... 24 PACK FREE OF COATS GIFT ASSORTED COATS SEWING THREADS FREE*

24,000 YARDS! SEE PAGE 66

22 FREE NEXT MONTH!

WOW! Sizes 4 to 26 EASIEST-EVER DRESSES

sewmag.co.uk Contents 109.indd 5

23/02/2018 14:11

wear

who what

The sewing world is a hub of excitement – keep up!

MEET OUR MASCOT We’re thrilled to introduce our mascot for this year’s Sew Saturday event, happening nationwide on 6th October. Our cute unicorn will be a fun project for stitchers of all generations to work on together, so we’ve named it after what we love most about the sewing community… say hello to Spirit!

Animals in Embroidery

*Code valid 8th March to 16th April 2018 on fabric only. Cannot be used in conjunction with any other offer or with a gift voucher. One use per customer.

20% off fabric!

20% OFF EVERYTHING AT RAY STITCH

What would you buy with 20% off^ your entire basket at Ray Stitch? We would start with New Look 6533 babydoll dress, top and leggings (£6.95) plus this terracotta viscose marl (£17 per metre) to make it up in. After, we’d spend hours choosing haberdashery, trims, kits and gifts… Use the code SEWMAG20 at raystitch.co.uk

20% off!^

Have you checked out The Sewing Cafe’s fabric range recently? With designs from Disney, Art Gallery Fabrics, Riley Blake and more, there’s bound to be something you’ll fall in love with. Use our discount code SEWMAG20 to get 20% off* at thesewingcafe.co.uk or pop into the shop in Hinckley, Leicestershire and show the team this page!

^Code valid 8th March to 5th April 2018. Cannot be used in conjunction with any other offer or on bargain lots.

This RSN exhibition will feature a parade of more than 80 hand -embroidered animals in a flock of different techniques. Animal -lovers can rejoice in seeing all creatures great and small, from cute dogs and a peckish chipmunk to a wild tiger and flamboyant flamingo. It opens 18th April at Hampton Court Palace in London, with tours available from £16 – pre-booking is essential at royal-needlework.org.uk.

Get 10% off ** with code SEWMAG10

Sewing subscription How would you like a box of beautifully curated dressmaking and craft fabric and habby items delivered to your front door each month? Choose to receive the mini, classic or luxury box and receive up to 3.5m and five fat quarters of fabric, an indie sewing pattern plus buttons, ribbons, pins and more. Head over to sewhayleyjane.com and use the code SEWMAG10 for up to £10 off your first box! 06

**Code valid 8th March to 8th April. One use per customer. £5 off first mini box, £10 off first classic or luxury box.

sewmag.co.uk

Who What Wear 109.indd 6

23/02/2018 10:38

if you buy one pattern... Danish one-stop creative shop Stoff & Stil have launched their SS18 range and we’re pretty excited. As well as having free templates for home projects and kids’ garments, the budget-friendly adult dressmaking patterns (pre-cut in your size) are quirky, stylish and fun. One of our favourites is the oversized sweatshirt (£4.75) with optional hood and frills, which also looks great as a top in lightweight materials. Check out the collection at stoffstil.co.uk

want it, need it, BUY IT!

The new B540 machine makes sewing easier than ever, with great features like the adjustable foot pressure for different fabric weights, automatic thread cutter, and the ability to wind a bobbin and sew at the same time! There are over 1,000 utility, decorative and quilting stitches built in, 14 styles of automatic buttonholes and 50 embroidery designs. £1,995, bernina.com

Mini Sewing Retreat

20% off!*

Here’s bliss: a three-day sewing retreat at Guthrie & Ghani HQ, where you’ll make lots of friends and a jacket or coat of your choice. Your garment-making skills will be boosted with expert tutelage on pattern adaptation, how to draft your own lining and lots more, plus guest demos from Lauren, and dinner with her too. Prices from £250, check available dates at guthrie-ghani.co.uk

NEW FABRICS! Dragonfly Fabrics has a new range of printed viscose rayons, perfect for stitching up a luxurious summer dress with plenty of drape. Better still, you lucky lot can get 20% off using the code SEW109RAYON at dragonflyfabrics.co.uk

*Code valid 8th March to 31st May 2018, Cannot be used in conjunction with any other offer.

sewmag.co.uk

Who What Wear 109.indd 7

23/02/2018 10:38

SEW APRIL 2018 master_SEW 23/02/2018 12:24 Page 8

STITCH IT WITH

dress

the

making

collection

sew cover star

Use your FREE New Look pattern to stitch one of five dresses, then build your wardrobe – and your skills – with some everyday wear. Try our pretty ruffle blouse, sew a faux suede waterfall jacket, create a classic Breton top, or stitch a matching set! Lori top, p18

Gina jacket, p22

Dotty top & skirt, p41

Paula skirt, p34

Turn the page and get started today!

get stitching

help

here to

Britta Breton, p26

your free pattern

TILLY WALNES

LAUREN GUTHRIE

LISA COMFORT

JAMIE CHALMERS

Learn how to pattern match striped fabrics perfectly.

Her pick of tools for making your own skirts.

Discover how to add a skirt lining with ease.

Mr X Stitch's shares his top tips for cross stitching.

P24

P31

P33

P76

sewmag.co.uk StyleIntro109.indd 2

23/02/2018 14:26

STITCH IT WITH

of your FREE

your free pattern

potential

Discover the

pattern

This month, your FREE New Look pattern, worth £6.95, is for FIVE FLATTERING DRESSES. Create your perfectly fitted bodice with princess seams, insert an invisible zip, choose your favourite sleeve style, then opt for SMART TAILORING or a fit-and-flare style with inverted box pleats. Whatever your occasion, this garment calls for that SPECIAL FABRIC you’ve been saving!

We colour-matched with Starfish and Fuschia Mettler Seralon universal threads. £1.59 each, minervacrafts.com

hidden TREASURE

A surefire way to make the Bargain pleated views even more FABRIC special is to add a peekBUYS! a-boo underlay (that’s the fabric behind the folds) in a different colour or print. You can cut a separate panel halfway between each fold and centre line (remember to add seam allowances) Polyester brocade in oriental or ‘cheat’ by stitching ready-made pink and turquoise, £8.99 per appliqué pieces to the main fabric. metre, minervacrafts.com

pick your THREAD

Sew-all thread is the most commonly used type because it is suitable for the majority of materials you’re likely to use. If you want decorative stitching to stand out, use specialist topstitching thread, which is a little thicker and often has more lustre too.

master ZIPS

Invisible zips have a bit of a reputation for being fiddly, but if you have the right presser foot for the job they’re easy to stitch. With this type, it’s best to insert the zipper, press, then sew the remainder of the seam allowance without leaving any gaps for a neat finish.

choose a NEEDLE

Never forget to use the right type of needle for your fabric. Denser and more lightweight wovens will need thin, sharp needles, while knit fabrics require ones with a rounded tip. We used a size 80 universal needle with both our fabrics.

cut SMART

let’s FACE it

The deep facing at the bottom of the pleated versions softens the base of the folds into a full skirt and helps flare out the hem, as if wearing a petticoat underneath. For the best results, cut this from the same fabric as the main skirt or one with a similar weight and drape.

The fabric requirements given on the envelope back are for materials with a nap (that can only be laid in one direction) and that are 1.15m wide. If you’re planning to buy a special fabric for these dresses, cut the pattern pieces and lay out as if on fabric and calculate how much you’ll need to avoid wastage.

Prym size 80 universal needles, £2.49 for five, minervacrafts.com

Mark ‘reversible’ fabrics on the wrong side to avoid subtle differences between panels. Prym dressmaker’s chalk slabs, £2.29 for two, minervacrafts.com

Cotton brocade in pink and red floral, £10.99 per metre, minervacrafts.com

Heavier-weight fabrics can distort when pinned, so opt for pattern weights like these sweet treats. £24 for 12, kiddylizzy.etsy.com 10

sewmag.co.uk

STITCH IT WITH your free pattern

style selector

Head to p47 for Debbie Shore’s tips for

perfect pleats

Can’t choose which to stitch first? It’s a tough decision but it has to be made!

style a

OFFICE CHIC Understated and elegant, this cap-sleeved pencil dress means business.

style B

WEDDING PARTY From vintage day dos to glamorous soirées, you’ll be perfectly dressed in this style.

style c

BIG CELEBRATION Add extra interest with contrast panels whenever you need to steal the show.

style D

LUNCH DATE This sleeveless fitted kneelength dress could be taken from day to evening effortlessly.

why we made STYLE B

Even the brightest poplin prints are made instantly chic through the flared skirt! The result is a versatile piece that can be taken straight from holiday to a wedding.

style e

RETRO STYLE How could you possibly resist a party-ready dress with a built-in corsage? 11

sewmag.co.uk

the perfect

size

the right

STITCH IT WITH

fit

your free pattern

what’s your size?

fabrics Heavyweighplt ea skirt create a fuller ted

Remember to use your body measurements to find your pattern size, NOT the ready-to-wear size that you’d buy in high street shops. Visit simplicitynewlook.com to find out more about taking accurate measurements and getting the right fit for your shape.

bigger busts

If you have a C-cup bust or larger, you’ll get a better fit by making a full bust adjustment. Luckily, this is really easy with princess seams and there are lots of really helpful tutorials online - we particularly like Sew Over It’s sewalong guide at tinyurl.com/sewbusty

EXTRA TIPS FOR SEWING BROCADE

sitting pretty

The V-shaped basque waistline of this dress elongates the waist and accentuates an hourglass silhouette. For the best fit, use the shorten/lengthen lines on the bodice pattern pieces to ensure it falls just above your hip bones at the side.

3 Although the fabric is doublesided, it’s best to choose one of them as the right side. Use safety pins or removable marks to identify the wrong side. 3 If using a particularly slippery material, tack seams by hand before taking to the machine, and work slowly to avoid puckers. 3 Brocade fabrics can be natural, synthetic or a blend, so always check washing and ironing instructions before preshrinking or pressing.

keep in shape

Every pattern piece is marked with a double-ended arrow that should be placed parallel to the lengthwise grain the warp - of your fabric. It is important to match this accurately, because even a small tilt towards the bias can cause your finished garment to stretch out of shape. 12

sewmag.co.uk

your way

STITCH IT WITH

dream

make it

machines £249

SAVE innov-is 15 With sleek, modern styling, this model combines high levels of functionality with ease of use. Beginner stitchers will find everything they need, with 16 stitches including three automatic buttonhole styles, a quick-set bobbin, speed control slider and a great range of accessories.

£449 TURN TO P84 FOR MORE USEFUL FITTING AND MEASURING ADVICE

UPGRADE

innov-is 55 fashion edition Ready to take your dressmaking to the next level? With 81 stitches, ten automatic buttonholes and a monogramming function, plus onehanded needle threading, stitch combination memory, and lots of other customisation settings, this model will be like a personal assistant in your studio.

Visit brothersewing.co.uk

Next month’s FREE pattern 13

sewmag.co.uk

GET HOLIDAY READY

with a super 70s jiffy cover up – no fastenings needed!

In sizes 4-26

SEW APRIL 2018 master_SEW 23/02/2018 12:24 Page 14

sewmag.co.uk

sew YOU!

This was my first time working with sheer fabric, using Simplicity 1467 that was a free gift in Sew –I need to adjust the fit slightly but overall I’m really happy!

Winter sewing is officially over, woohoo! We’ve been asking for three-word descriptions of your stash – the answers are amazing!

Christine Larkin

Lee DeTolve “Sort of organized!”

Here’s my 11-year-old son getting ready toe surprise his valentin … and the result! Lucy Picksley

I couldn’t wait to try out New Look 6213 that came free with the March issue of Sew, so I used a fabric from my stash that draped really well, but the fraying made it a bit of a challenge! I’m pleased with the result though, and looking forward to wearing it in the summer.

All ready for a trip to Disneyland, I’ve finished this Mickey Mouse print dress, plus a little boy’s waistcoat from the same fabric!

Carol Clancy

Mel Byrne

p71

I’m taking a well-deserved day off from sewing after finishing my Rumana coat from By Hand London! Eleanor Thomson

chosen by you

Each month on Facebook, we ask you to help us choose a name for our issue’s mascot. Say Hello to Mother Hen! Claire has won a set of “I thought the name Mother Hen was quite fitting Aerofil sew-all as my Mum taught me to sew and we love stitching threads from Say Hello together. She is my Mother Hen!” madeira.co.uk to Mother Hen! Claire Tomlinson, Sew reader Help us choose a name for next month’s toy at facebook.com/sewhq

Continued overleaf

sewmag.co.uk

SewSocial 109.indd 3

23/02/2018 15:43

social

Read more on page 60

Yates coat

by Grainline Studio Difficulty:

Tick Tock

Fun fact: this elegant mid-thigh-length coat was originally drafted for designer Jennifer Beeman’s wedding! It’s a really well put-together piece of outerwear, with classic tailoring like the collar notches given a modern twist through the oversized lapels and stylish pockets in the horizontal seam line. The double-breasted hidden closure offers an effortlessly sleek look when buttoned up, but looks great open too. The full lining is made up with dedicated pattern pieces, creating a coat that will last for years to come. £13/£14.50, grainlinestudio.com

by Ruth Maddock Difficulty:

SI Z

This loose-fitting dress allows children to play freely. Designed to be worn over a T-shirt, it features large side pockets with tags to fasten very precious items onto. There’s also no ‘wrong way round’ to wear it, as the front and back are the same! It’s especially great for those with Sensory Processing Disorder (find out more on p60), who will appreciate the fact that the seams – which can otherwise feel irritating on the skin – are on the outside, reducing sensory overload. £9.50, ruthmaddockmakes.com

4-22

The SIZES

team LOVES

Cinnamon trousers

by CocoWawa Crafts Difficulty:

Proving that wardrobe staples certainly do not have to be basic, these comfy semi-fitted trousers give you the chance to add ruffle or pleat trims to the hems and front inset pockets. The mid-rise straight -leg bottoms are closed with an invisible zipper in the side seam (no front fly!) and fitted with elastic at the back of the waistband, making this an easy-fit pattern suitable for trouser newbies. There are also two fitting options – close and loose – to suit your body shape and preferences. Grab your favourite woven fabric (even ones with a little stretch) and go! £10, cocowawacrafts.com 29

sewmag.co.uk IndiePatternNews 109.indd 2

23/02/2018 10:27

WHY NOT TRY

Stitch the Look

DREAMY SATIN

Bargain

FABRIC BUYS!

You might think that satin is similar to silk but unbeknown to many, the term satin actually refers to the weave of the fabric – which is minimally interlaced to form its characteristically smooth surface. Because of this, satin isn’t a fabric type as such, and can be made up in anything from cotton and silk through to synthetic fibres such as polyester. This means that you can find the material in all kinds of guises, giving stitchers the luxury of silk but without the price tag!

Trousers, £26, dorothy perkins.com

5 1 John Kaldor - Santa Cruz, £18 per metre 2 Vicky, £5 per metre 3 Golden Pond, £10 per metre 4 Silk Like - Mink, £6.50 per metre 5 John Kaldor - It Is No Exaggeration, £16 per metre All of the featured fabrics are available at croftmill.co.uk

sewmag.co.uk

Fashion forecast.109.indd 1

23/02/2018 10:39

sew LEARN

Lauren Guthrie’s

TOP 4forTOOLS making skirts 1

ith such a huge variety of styles and designs to choose from, skirts are a great dressmaking project for beginners through to more seasoned stitchers. If you’re thinking of making a skirt or always on the lookout for ways of streamlining your stitching experience, here are the tools I think any aspiring skirt-maker will find useful in their stash!

See it on page 39!

Vilene’s waist-shaper interfacing helps to prevent waistband from stretching over time – the perforated lines act as a sewing guide and help you get a sharp, accurate edge!

1 HEM MARKER

This freestanding gadget is a great way to even out a hem. You can use it as you’re wearing a skirt too! Adjust to your desired length (plus hem allowance), then squeeze the puff ball to dispense chalk as you slowly turn around. £21.42, adjustoform.com

2 ZIPPER FOOT

When inserting a zip, I much prefer the sleek, professional finish that an invisible zip gives – to get it looking nice and neat you will need a special invisible zipper foot for your machine. These can vary, so it’s best to check what one is right for your machine! brothersewing.co.uk

3 HAND GAUGE

This handy ruler is great for helping you press back an even hem allowance. The indents along one side also help you to mark your fabric at an even distance if you prefer marking before pressing. It’s available in two sizes. £1.20 (4cm) or £1.45 (10cm), guthrie-ghani.co.uk

4 SKIRT PATTERNS

The Tilly and the Buttons Dominique skirt is a lovely choice for beginners. For a more dramatic look, you could try the high-waisted Fumeterre maxi from Deer and Doe with its fly front zip and panelled pockets. £12.50 (Dominique) or £15 (Fumeterre), guthrie-ghani.co.uk

sewmag.co.uk Lauren's top tools 109 .indd 2

22/02/2018 15:06

sewing

SoS

Our experts give us the low-down on making skirts

I ’d like to try sewing my first skirt – can you suggest a design that would suit a newbie like me?

Jemima Pollard

Tilly says

A skirt is a great project for novice stitchers – you’ll want to look out for a design that has minimal seam Winner lines and no fiddly fastenings. I designed our Dominique pattern with beginners in mind... it’s the perfect project for practising straight stitching and learning the essentials of garment construction. If you feel like you need more guidance, sign up for my online video workshop Learn to Sew Skirts, where I show you how to construct the Dominique skirt from the comfort of your own home! Once you’ve got to grips with the basics, you could progress onto a skirt pattern with an invisible zip, such as the Delphine skirt featured in my first book Love at First Stitch. This is an A-line design that also shows you how to create a fitted waistband and apply interfacing, plus it has the option to add belt loops. You could also try sewing a skirt with buttonholes, such as our Arielle pattern which can be made up as an asymmetric pencil or mini skirt, both with a button opening to one side.

Paper Highly Commended

Dominique pattern, £9.50 (PDF)/ £12.50 (paper), tillyandthebuttons.com

I found a pencil skirt in a charity shop that I love, but it’s a bit too big for me. Can it be adjusted to fit?

Susan Francis Practise buttonholes with this FREE Cath Kidston skirt pattern at

sewmag.co.uk/ templates

Kate says

The short answer to this is yes! It’s hard to say without seeing the skirt but my advice would be to try it on inside out – this way you can pin or mark how much fabric you want to remove. Bring the skirt in at the seams, then give it a good press once you’ve stitched it. Once you have got your basic shape, you can make any tweaks to the darts in the second round of sewing. Whenever I adjust ready-to-wear garments, I try really hard not to take out the zips if possible – the manufacturers often trim them down, so they end up fraying and are really hard to sew back in. If you have to remove the zip however, it’s generally best to replace it with a new one. If a skirt is too big for you, it can usually be adjusted to fit 32

sewmag.co.uk Sewing SOS April.indd 32

22/02/2018 15:07

here to

help

TILLY WALNES

KATE UNDERDOWN

LISA COMFORT

Award-winning indie pattern designer and sewing tutor who offers a range of online video tutorials.

The co-founder of The Fold Line, a stitchy social network to share your makes and find expert advice.

With a love of sewing, Lisa enjoys designing her own patterns and sharing her knowledge through workshops.

tillyandthebuttons.com

thefoldline.com

I’ve got a lovely circle skirt pattern but it’s unlined – would it be possible to add a lining and if so, how can I?

Gail Cameron

Lisa says

Circle skirts are probably Winner the easiest type of skirt to add a lining to, as there is no extra bulk to worry about at the waist that is often created by pleats, darts or gathers. It’s a great skill to have and means you can have lots of fun with fabrics too – such as using lace or broderie anglaise for your outer skirt. When lining a circle skirt, cut out the front and back pieces from the lining fabric, then sew up the side seams as normal, remembering to leave an opening where the zip will be. Stitch up the outer skirt fabric and insert the zip as normal, stopping before you reach the waistband stage. At this point, tack the outer skirt and lining together at the waistline with wrong sides facing. Then, working as if these two layers were one, attach the waistband as normal. Slip stitch the lining around the zip tape to stop it catching, and voilà! I recommend leaving your skirt to hang for a couple of days unhemmed to let the fabric drop – you’ll then need to level both the lining and the outer fabric of the skirt. Once that’s done, trim the lining an inch or two shorter than the outer fabric and hem so that it isn’t visible from the outside. Hem the outer skirt as normal and you’re good to go.

top 4

sewoverit.co.uk

Skirt Essentials

Feeling inspired to create a me-made skirt? Seek out a pretty fabric, then stock up on good quality thread a nd Highly Commended fusible webbing tape, which is always handy for achieving professional hems. To make your garment really special, finish it with a decorative zip!

Fab fabric Flutter Flutter cotton in pink, £15.50 per metre

Matching thread Aurifil 50wt cotton thread in pale pink, £8.25

Pretty detail Little Lacie zipper, 8” in light pink, £2.20

tip! Full Circle Skirt pattern, £7.50 (PDF), sewoverit.co.uk

Make a toile from inexpensive fabric so you can make any adjustments before sewing your final skirt.

Perfect hemming Bosal Splendid Tape 1/2” fusible web, £2.20 for 10yds

FIND ALL OF THESE PRODUCTS AT SEWHOT.CO.UK

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Stitch with wool felt to create a smart

PAULA SKIRT An A-line skirt is a wardrobe essential – the shape is so flattering and suitable for either casual or smart office wear. Amanda Walker’s version is made up of stylish panels that add subtle interest to the classic design. The project is a great choice for those who have never added a lining or inserted a concealed zip. What’s more, the wool felt used for this design doesn’t fray – so the hem of the skirt can be left raw to incredibly chic effect. Get started

• Wool felt, 1m (1.4m wide) • Lining fabric, 1m • 23cm concealed zip

Sizes 8-20

Cutting guide

Note: cut along the line at the hem of each of the panels as indicated on the pattern. Centre-front: cut one pair each from wool felt and lining fabric Centre-back: cut one pair each from wool felt and lining fabric Side: cut two pairs each from wool felt and lining fabric 1.5cm seam allowance used throughout.

the zip notch – the other side seam can be stitched all the way to the waistline. Press the seams open.

Fold and press the seam allowance along the two sides of the side opening. Open out the seam allowance and, with the fabric right side up, place the opened zip face-down, matching the teeth to the crease line in the seam allowance.

Pin and stitch one side of the zip, using either a zipper or concealed zipper foot (see Core Skill panel). Back stitch, then stitch the other side of the zip in the same way. Carefully thread the zip pull through to the right side and pull up to close.

sew a

PANEL SKIRT

Download and print the pattern at sewmag.co.uk/templates. Cut out all the pieces according to the cutting guide. Pin the two centrefront fabric pieces right sides together and stitch along the long straight edge. Repeate for the centre-back. Match the notches of the fabric centre-front panel to a side piece. Pin, stitch, then press the seams open. Add the other side panel in the same way. Repeat for the back.

Match the side seams of the front and back, right sides together. Sew one of the seams from the base to

Make up the lining in the same way, omitting the zip, then neaten the seam allowances together by overlocking or using a zigzag stitch. Neaten the base of the lining, press a 1cm hem, pin, then edgestitch. Turn the skirt right sides out, then place the unturned lining over the top, aligning the panel seams. Stitch around the waistline. Press the waistband towards the lining, then understitch. Place the lining inside the skirt, then press the waistline. Fold the edges of the lining in either side of the zip, press, then hand stitch.

At the top of each seam around the waistline from the lining side, catch the lining with a few hand stitches to the seam allowances of the skirt to ensure that it sits inside it.

Use sharp scissors to ensure crisp edges - then there’s no need to hem! 34

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sew DRESSMAKING

Core skill:

sew

CONCEALED ZIPS

free pattern download sewmag.co.uk /templates

If you are using a concealed zipper foot, place the teeth of the zip into the groove before you begin. As you stitch, the foot will uncurl the teeth and the stitching will appear alongside the teeth. If you are stitching with a normal zipper foot, you will need to uncurl the teeth with your fingertips as you go; sew to the top of the side seam.

sew

SHOPPER ************************

POWDER PINK We used this wool felt in light powder melange. ÂŁ17.75 per metre, stoffstil.co.uk ************************ thank you for shopping!

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Get to know KNITS C

hances are you’ve heard the term knits bounced around a lot in the last year. If you’re new to sewing and haven’t, don’t sweat - these fabrics are great for all abilities and should by no means be ruled out. Here, Wendy Ward tackles the knitty gritty questions that can get in the way of any stitcher’s love affair with knits… once you’ve got to grips with the basics you’ll have opened the door to a whole new wardrobe of possibilities.

The Knits Striped collection by Art Gallery Fabrics is out now! For stockist details visit hantex.co.uk/agf

Wendy Ward is a designer, blogger and author, recently publishing the wonderful new book A Beginner’s Guide to Sewing With Knitted Fabrics. Here, she reveals all you need to know to get started...

Tell us, what is a knitted fabric?

The main quality of a knit is that it stretches much more than wovens – even those that contain Spandex (elastane). The difference between them is in the construction. Wovens have two lots of threads at right angles to each other – if you look closely you will see a grid pattern, formed by the threads going over and under each other. Knitted fabrics however are made from interlocking loops – think of it as hand knitting on a tiny scale!

How do you tell the right side from the wrong side?

This depends on the fabric type, as some knits look almost identical on both sides – but there are clues! Single jersey (typical T-shirt fabric) looks like hand-knitted stocking stitch and has tiny V-shaped stitches on the right side, then tiny wavy ones on the wrong side. If your fabric has a knitted stripe (as opposed to a printed one), you’ll also be able to see a tiny line of both colours on the wrong side where the colour changes. A print instantly gives the game away as the fabric will be plain on the wrong side. For fabrics that initially look identical on both sides (such as interlock or Ponte Roma), see if one side looks more uneven or rougher – that is usually the wrong side. The smooth, even colour is on the outside of the garment. Some bouclé or boiled wools may also look almost identical; usually they have a slightly more textured side and this is commonly used as the right one. Fabrics such as loopback or brushed back sweatshirt fabric

and French terry have a pile or textured side, which is usually used as the wrong side for warmth. Single jersey tends to roll along the cut edges and selvedges, which can also help you identify the right and wrong sides. Almost always, cut edges along the width of single jersey will roll towards the right side and the selvedges will roll towards the wrong side.

How do you identify the straight grain and selvedges?

Knitted fabrics have a straight grain (grainline) that runs along the length of the fabric. It’s even more important to get this right in knits than in wovens as knitted fabrics tend to stretch most across the width – which is the part of your finished garment that will wrap around your body and exactly where you need most of the stretch! The selvedge runs parallel to the grainline along the fabric length, so if your fabric has a visible one, you’ve found the grainline. Identifying the grainline depends on the type of knit. Sometimes you can see or feel blobs of glue along the selvedges; lots of knitted fabrics are manufactured as a tube on circular knitting machines and this is where the tube has been cut. However, beware with cut circular knits, as the cut might not necessarily have been

made perfectly straight along the grainline. On knitted fabrics like single jersey, interlock, Ponte Roma, scuba and French terry you can see the grainline. Look for the vertical lines in the rows of knitting that run along the fabric length. Again, the selvedges of single jerseys will roll towards the wrong side – so if this happens, you’ve found the straight grain! Some knits are ‘flat knitted’ rather than being ‘circular knitted’ then cut. Ponte Roma tends to be flat knitted and so has very obvious selvedges.

V-shaped stitches on the right side

Wavy stitches and knitted stripe on the wrong side

FABRIC NAMES

COMMON FIBRES USED

BEST USED FOR

Single jersey Interlock Rib/ribbing

Cotton, viscose, silk, wool, Tops and dresses in draped and Spandex (elastane) fitted styles, drapey skirts and pants. If making sportswear, look for fabrics with a Spandex content of 10%+, labelled as ‘4-way stretch’ fabric

Sweatshirt or brushed back Sweatshirt/French terry Ponte roma Scuba Boiled wool Bouclé wool

Cotton, viscose, wool, polyester, Spandex (elastane)

As some of these fabrics have less stretch and are often referred to as ‘stable’ knits, they’re great for more structured/boxy styles such as loose-fitting garments like jumpers, dresses, and outerwear

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Can you explain stretch percentage?

Stretch percentage is how much crosswise stretch a fabric has – that’s how much it will stretch across its width. This is important as not all knitted fabrics stretch the same amount and some garments require a fabric to have more than others, depending on how close-fitting the style is. For example, fabric with at least 50% stretch is recommended for the cuffs of the lounge pants project in my new book to allow the fabric to stretch over the heel and still be a snug fit around the ankle. To work out the stretch percentage of a fabric, cut a piece of the fabric that measures 4” (10 cm) along the width. Holding each side of the fabric firmly, stretch it as much as you can alongside a ruler and note the measurement it reaches. Using this formula, calculate the stretch percentage of your fabric: Stretched length - original length = A A÷ original length x 100 = stretch percentage E.g. Original length = 4” (10 cm) and stretched length = 6” (15 cm) 6” - 4” = 2”. (A)/15 – 10 cm = 5 cm (A) 2 ÷ 4 x 100 = 50% (5 ÷ 10 x 100 = 50% ) A fabric that stretches from 4” (10 cm) to 6” (15 cm) has a stretch percentage of 50%.

What is stretch recovery?

Stretch recovery means how quickly a fabric goes back to its original size or shape after stretching. A fabric that contains even just 3% Spandex will have much better stretch recovery than fabric with none in it, and will keep its shape much better – meaning fitted styles won’t ‘bag’.

GIVE KNIT FABRICS A GO!

So, if you’re new to knits and haven’t given the fabric type a try – or have kept to the same ones – don’t be afraid to explore them! More stable versions such as Ponte Roma and scuba are great for beginners, whilst the many other versions are rewarding to work with once you’ve understood some of their properties. You never know, it could be the best thing you ever did for your me-made wardrobe!

Turn the page for the essential knit tools!

get the

book Make sure you get your hands on a copy of A Beginner’s Guide to Sewing With Knitted Fabrics by Wendy Ward. £12.99, makeetc.com

Be sure to share your knit makes via social media, or by emailing editorial@sewmag.co.uk

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THE

STITCH IT WITH

Work Room

Some stitchers are weary about knits but like with any craft, the best tools make the fabric a pleasure to work with. First off is your needle… look out for jersey, knit or stretch versions, or opt for a ballpoint one – twin needles are a good option for topstitching and hemming only. Unless they’re more stable and heavy weight, knits tend to move around a bit, so weights are a good option for keeping both paper and fabric in position. As for the cutting out, a rotary cutter means you don’t have to lift your material as you cut plus has a constantly moving blade – grab one of these along with the biggest cutting mat your craft space will allow!

3 2

Sew like a pro!

Tack pattern pieces together with a long running stitch or use fabric clips to hold them together, keeping them in place as you stitch.

4 Products: 1) Stretch needles No 75-90, Stretch double needle No 4,0/75, Stretch double needle No 2,5/75, Jersey needles No 70-90 2) 45cm x 60cm pink cutting mat 3) 30cm x 45cm green cutting mat 4) Fixing weights 5) 45mm Comfort rotary cutter and Maxi rotary cutter. For stockist details, visit prym.com 38

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Wish Lis t

. . . m r o f n O

On p31, Sew columnist Lauren Guthrie sings the praises of a chalk hem marker – the clever gadget is going to make uneven skirts a thing of the past. £21.42, adjustoform.com

Game Chang er

The team’s top picks for April When you’re involved in the stitchy world, it’s only natural that beautifully designed and crafted products go with it. If your heart rate rises upon seeing a gorgeous fabric, exciting new pattern, or gadget that will streamline your process, then welcome to the club! Here’s what’s been catching our eye... We’ve been eyeing up the Hot Patterns range, which the brand’s UK distributor Sewbox stock more than 100 of! You’ll be able to find any garment you could ever wish to sew, plus the extra large packaging allows for savvy storing. £14.50, sewbox.co.uk

C o oelr cu t t

Charlotte is the latest pattern designed by Lisa Comfort of Sew Over It. The kimonosleeved dress with faux wrapover front has a relaxed fit, making it comfortable to wear yet still elegant. £7.50 (PDF), sewoverit. co.uk

These gold edition tailor’s shears by Prym tick all of our boxes. prym.com

NEW!

Ultimate sewing box

If you’re short on space like us,settle on a craft room in a wardrobe! We’ve got our eye on the Chocolate Knotty Adler, pictured here. From £1762, theoriginalscrapbox.co.uk

L ush !

Sew Creative, a sewing shop based in Petersfield, don’t just offer a great range of workshops…you’ll also find a massive choice of fabrics. sewcreative.org.uk

Tell us your favourite products by emailing editorial@sewmag.co.uk 39

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YOU WILL LEARN: 3 Bust darts 3 Neck and waistband facings 3 Setting in sleeves 3 Lining a skirt

sew DRESSMAKING

sew masterclass

Double the fun in our

DOTTY CO-ORDS Matching separates have been popular for a while - you get to make a statement by wearing an all over print, whilst the separates create an interesting silhouette. Here, Fiona Hesford’s top and skirt combo are simple enough for beginners - so all abilities can give them a go today! Get started

• Fabric, 2.8m* (1.1m wide) • Anti-static lining fabric, 50cm (1.5m wide) • Lightweight fusible interfacing, 40cm x 75cm • 18cm invisible zipper * Top requires 1.5m, skirt requires 1.3m

Sizes

Bust (cm)

Hip (cm)

100

106

Note: finished length of top is 60cm and skirt is 50cm (sits 2.5cm below natural waistline)

Cutting guide MAIN FABRIC TOP Front bodice: cut one on the fold Front neck facing: cut one on the fold Back bodice: cut one pair Back neck facing: cut one pair Sleeve: cut two SKIRT Skirt front: cut one on the fold Front waistband facing: cut one on the fold Skirt back: cut one pair Back waistband facing: cut one pair

Note: iron interfacing onto the reverse of all facing pieces

LINING FABRIC Skirt front: cut one on the fold Skirt back: cut one pair

Note: cut lining pieces below dashed line on pattern

1.5cm seam allowance used unless otherwise stated.

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stitch a TOP AND SKIRT Sewing the bodice pieces

Fiona Hesford’s top tips for STITCHING & FINISHING Visit sewmag.co.uk /templates to download and print the pattern, then transfer any markings. l When topstitching, extend the stitch length to 2.8mm then sew roughly 4mm from the seam line on the right side, using a contrast colour thread to accentuate it. l You’ll need a poking tool when pressing out the seams of the neck facing. l When stitching darts, the trick is to fold, pin and press precisely beforehand. Back tack at the beginning, sew towards the point of the dart and continue right off the edge of the fabric. Leave long tails of thread and tie these in a double knot to secure your dart. Press with lots of steam over a tailor’s ham - a rolled-up towel works too. l Remember that a 1.5cm seam allowance is used throughout. l When using a woven fabric that frays, don’t forget to finish any raw edges with a zigzag stitch and overcast foot, or an overlocker. l

Sew the bust darts on the front bodice, then press down. Pin the back pieces right sides together, stitch the centre-back up to the marker, then press the seam open.

Pin the front and back bodice pieces right sides together. Sew at the shoulder seams, then press them towards the back and topstitch down.

Join the facings at the short edges, then pin around the neckline, right sides together, aligning the shoulders. Tack the facing down, then sew around.

Stitching the facing & sleeves

Snip the curved allowance. Turn the facing inside the bodice, then press. Topstitch around the neckline, 4cm from the edge. Pin the side seams right sides together, stitch, then press open.

Fold each sleeve in half, right sides together. Stitch the long raw edge, then press the seam open. Set a row of gathering stitches within the seam allowance of the sleeve head.

Place the sleeve head inside the armhole, right sides together, pulling the gathering stitches to make it fit. Pin, tack in place, then sew around slowly to avoid puckers in the fabric.

Making the skirt

Stitch the waist dart in each back skirt piece as indicated. Attach the invisible zip to the top of the centre-back seam allowance, then sew the seam below it.

Pin the front and back skirt right sides together, stitch the side seams, then press open. Pin the lining pieces to the bottom of each facing piece, right sides together, then stitch.

Sew the side seams, right sides together, then press them open. Pin then stitch the centre-back seam of the lining, beginning at the zip point indicated on the pattern.

Joining the lining and hemming

Don’t be tempted to skip tacking the facing and sleeves before stitching. It helps you get much neater results!

Match the skirt outer and facing right sides together, pin, then tack. Sew around the waistband and down the facing edges. Trim across the corner then snip the curved seam allowance.

Turn right sides out, push out the corners, then press. Fold and press a double 1cm hem at the lining base, then stitch. Secure the lining with hand stitches at the side seams.

Fold and press a 2cm hem at the sleeve edge, then topstitch around. Fold the same hem at the base of the skirt, securing with small hand stitches on the wrong side.

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sew DRESSMAKING

sew

free pattern download sewmag.co.uk /templates

20% off

everything at Ray Stitch! Use the code SEWMAG20 at raystitch.co.uk

sew

SHOPPER

************************

DARKEST NAVY PEBBLES This cotton/linen barkcloth by Kokka is robust and heavyweight, yet still breathable to wear. £20 per metre, raystitch.co.uk

*Code valid 8th March to 5th April 2018. Cannot be used in conjunction with any other offer or on bargain lots.

************************ thank you for shopping!

Dream

MACHINE PHOTO FINISH Featuring an automatic 4-step buttonhole, plus adjustable stitch length and width, fashion sewing is made easy with Singer’s Talent 3321 model! It comes with lots of accessories too. £179, singerco.co.uk 43

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r u o y Love

! E s t l u N s e I r l a n H o i s s C e f o A r p e v M Achie DESIGNER TOPAZ 40

Sew, quilt, embroider & more with

This sewing and STITCH & embroidery machine EMBROIDER offers an easy-to-use colour touch screen, plus a basic design positioning feature that enables you to join large embroideries with perfect placement. The exclusive sensor system senses your fabric’s thickness for even feeding, while the sewing advisor selects the best stitches for you and provides on-screen advice. Price: £2,199

OPAL 690Q

A computerised model with 208 stitches including utility, decorative and quilt ones, it also offers four programmable alphabets and up to 7mm stitch width. Other features include an automatic thread cutter, a sensor to alert when the bobbin thread is about to run out, electronic self-adjusting thread tension, plus a long arm and 20cm sewing surface for larger projects. Price: £979

SEW, EMBELLISH & QUILT

GOOD ALL ROUNDER

EMERALD 118

Packed with practical features such as easy stitch selection, a built-in needle threader, easy-to-use speed adjustment and a one-step buttonhole foot, this is a reliable machine for all types of sewing. It provides 17 stitches that include utility, decorative and tri-motion for knits and reinforcing, whilst the needle up/down feature is perfect for pivoting with appliqué. Price: £319 44

sewmag.co.uk

sew SHOPPING

“This new sewing and quilting machine combines high performance with top features” The Epic 980Q machine has so much to offer, including a large touch screen that’s easy to navigate, plus a generous, brightly lit working area for bigger projects. The JoyOS Advisor feature will instantly set the best stitch, stitch width and length, thread tension and presser foot pressure for the technique you’ve chosen, plus you get a free mySewnet account – connecting to WiFi and automatically updating so you can easily access files from multiple devices. There are more than 1,000 built-in stitches, plus exclusive techniques such as Dimensional Stitches that let you add fabric or sequins, while Theme Stitches lets you randomly select stitches from the same family.

KEY FEATURES:

3 1,000 built-in stitches 3 Interchangeable dual feed 3 Needle up/down 3 Automatic thread cutter 3 29 needle positions 3 Straight stitch plate and sensor 3 Two USB ports Price: £4,499, husqvarnaviking.com, 01527 519480

SHOP

Stitch X Stitch in Stowmarket, Suffolk has been open for business since 2015, being authorised dealers of Husqvarna sewing machines and overlockers. The shop also stocks Horn Furniture sewing cabinets and a wide range of fabrics from wellknown brands including Moda, Lewis & Irene, Michael Miller, Riley Blake and many more. There’s also a huge range of haberdashery in stock, and the shop is currently the sole UK stockist of the Screw-B-Do, the world’s best miniature screwdriver designed for maintaining your sewing machine.

WHAT’S ON OFFER?

of the

MONTH

3 Authorised Husqvarna

dealers

3 Free tuition with every

machine purchase

3 Sewing machine and

overlocker servicing

3 Wide range of sewing classes

Visit Stitch X Stitch, 24 Bury Street, Stowmarket, Suffolk, IP14 1HH. Alternatively, visit stitchxstitch.co.uk or call 01449 257077

h s a t myrset... sec

HUSKYLOCK S15

Built for fabulous 2-3-4 thread results for all kinds of fabrics from stretch to sheers, this overlocker can seam, overcast and trim excess fabric or seam allowances in just one step! The extra presser foot lift makes it easy to overlock thick fabric layers and quilts, plus the electronic speed control lets you overlock at any speed with full needle piercing power. Price: £359

EDITOR’S PICK!

Sew reader, Alison Webb says...

“My husband bought me a Husqvarna Viking Huskystar C20 just over 10 years ago and its been used almost every day! I adore this machine and it has enabled me to make hundreds of gifts for people as well as producing all the costumes for various school shows.” 45

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SEW APRIL 2018 master_SEW 23/02/2018 12:24 Page 46

With the NEW EPIC™ 980Q every detail big and small has been thought through. With patented design and exclusive market leading features, you’ll see there are no limits to your sewing.

Features include:

JoyOS ADVISOR™ Automatic needle threader Exclusive stitch techniques Large illuminated work area Market’s largest display with capacitive touch

husqvarnavikinguk

www.husqvarnaviking.com

sew LEARN

Winner

Folding and stitching pleats is a great way of adding interest or volume to a garment, and there are lots of different kinds - knife, accordion and box to name just a few. Natural fibres hold a sharp crease much better than synthetics, which create a softer fold, so consider this when choosing your material - I’ve demonstrated with a polycotton blend here. A little spray starch can help with finer fabrics.

Highly Commended

Congratulations Debbie Shore!

Highly Commended for Best Sewing Blog and Most Inspirational Sewing Personality, plus Winner of Favourite Sewing Book for Half Yard Vintage in the British Sewing Awards 2017!

Pleats are really easy to make, just ensure you mark and press everything precisely for a professional finish!

Debbie Shore’s SHOW & TELL

PERFECT PLEATS

old school Box pleats are made by taking two equal folds of fabric away from each other. They keep the fabric flat whilst adding a bit of flare below, making them more flattering around the waist than gathers!

reverse it An inverted box pleat uses the same technique, but moving the folds towards each other. You’ll mark the right side of the fabric, so check your chalk or marker comes off easily or consider tailor’s tacks.

make your mark Most patterns have straight lines for the folds and a dashed line where the pleats meet. Transfer these accurately to your fabric, using a soluble marker or tacking stitches and following the instructions in your pattern.

time to fold On garments, it’s easier to sew the hem before folding pleats. If you’re unsure which direction to fold in, check your pattern for arrows. Crease along the straight lines, bring them to the dashed line, then pin.

keep it sharp If you think your material won’t keep the crease as sharp as you’d like, which is more common especially when working with heavier synthetic fabrics, edgestitch along the fold before bringing it into the centre.

finishing touches Tack across the top of the pleats (within the seam allowance) to hold it in place, taking extra care when coming to folds made in the direction of your needle. For a professional finish, topstitch down the top of each pleat.

For more great tips from Debbie, visit debbieshore.tv 47

sewmag.co.uk

Crafty Sew & So, Leicester APRIL

SUN

A-Line Skirt With My Handmade Wardrobe Patterns

Make a neat A-line skirt using a pattern from Crafty Sew & So’s exclusive new range. This class is suitable for beginner dressmakers and includes essential techniques such as inserting a zip. The pattern, equipment and notions are included in the price, although you will need to bring 1.5m-2m of fabric – denim, corduroy or quilting weight cottons are recommended for beginners. Price: £60

APRIL

22 & 29 SUN

Shirt Making Two Week Course

&learn

Stitch

Visit craftysewandso.com

Over this twoweek course, students will be taken through the process of making either a ladies’ or men’s shirt, using their choice of patterns. These classes are recommended for dressmakers with some experience of making garments. The price includes the pattern, equipment and buttons – you will need to bring 2m-2.5m of suitable fabric, such as cotton lawn or shirting material. Price: £140

ALLINCLUSIVE PRICE!

MAY

WED Start As You Mean To Sew On If you’re completely new to sewing and want to learn the basics, this ultimate beginner’s introduction class is for you! During the three-hour session, you’ll be shown how to use a sewing machine before going on to make a needle case then an envelope cushion cover with your new skills. All materials and equipment are included in the price.

Learn how to sew garments, create your own patterns and more in our brand new monthly class review!

Soft Byte Ltd

Visit softbyte.co.uk Fittingly Sew 2 If you’ve experienced the frustration of buying a ready-made pattern that doesn’t fit well, this computer software will enable you to draft your very own made-tomeasure designs before printing them out full size. It has some very powerful tools to start you off, with a set of basic sloper patterns and templates that you can use as a starting point for your original creations. However, you also have the option to draft your own patterns starting from rectangular blocks, just as you would with paper, pencil and a ruler. The on-screen editing and use of the clipboard makes the construction process accurate and simple to do. Fittingly Sew’s emphasis is on freedom to design rather than on ready-made garments. The built-in pattern and body blocks are all women’s, but you can adapt any of them to use for men’s or children’s clothes, or even for dolls. This program also allows you to trace pattern pieces from background images, which may be photos of existing garments, scans of patterns from other sources – and even screen captures from other pattern design software. Price: £159

Price: £40 48

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Janome Centre, Stockport

MAY

Visit janome.co.uk/sewing-courses APRIL

Working With Your Overlocker

Get confident using a Janome overlocker to construct and finish your garments, then learn decorative effects with the help of this one-day workshop with Gill Arnold. A booklet is provided and samples are produced on your overlocker working on various weights of cloth that cover many essential stitching techniques including threading, changing tensions and cutting distances. Lunch is included in the price.

Necklines and Their Variations

MON

Sewing tutor Celia Banks will take you through the many types of neckline design that can be applied to a garment, explaining the effect that each one can have on the overall look and how to sew them perfectly using a Janome machine. Celia has been sewing for over 35 years and her aim is to teach the techniques to produce wellfitting and well-made garments.

WED

Price: £70

APRIL

Painterly Embellishments

This popular one-day workshop taught by Dionne Swift demonstrates how to create designs on fabric with a Janome embellisher/ needle punch felting machine. You will effectively be ‘painting’ and ‘drawing’ with your machine, creating an embellished cloth that can be used as a wall hanging, part of a quilt/patchwork or any other project. Use of the machines and a buffet lunch are included in the price.

WED

ONE DAY COURSE

Price: £70

London College of Fashion

JULY

Visit arts.ac.uk/fashion MARCH

Lingerie Making

This practical course will instruct you in the processes of Mon-Fri constructing several styles of lingerie including briefs, French knickers, plus a camisole and basque – focusing on one of these styles each day. Over the five days the tutor Linda Wing, a lingerie industry expert, will guide you in making each garment from start to finish. Best for intermediate and advanced stitchers.

2-6

Couture Tailoring

This five-day course focuses on the specialist hand-stitching skills needed to construct a tailored Mon-Fri woman’s jacket. You’ll learn the step-by-step stages using the appropriate materials to complete a half jacket, as well as build an extensive reference file of notes and illustrations covering various techniques. Advanced sewing skills are required and you should expect to do some of the work in your own time.

19-23

Price: £575

APRIL

9-13

Professional Sewing Techniques

If you’re considering a career in sewing, this five-day course will help you to develop your basic machine skills to a professional standard. The lessons focus on how to make lightweight garments for women, looking at the techniques used in top-quality ready-to-wear pieces. Techniques covered include cut-work organisation, garment assembly, and handling methods, which are crucial in saving time and ensuring a professional finish.

Mon-Fri

Price: £550

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Make my garden pillow using the AccuQuilt GO! Baby Fabric Cutter on p62

I love Tilda’s Lemon Tree range! To find your local stockist email groves@stockistenquiries.co.uk

Easter offers some great sewing opportunities, sainsburys.com

At home with...

STUART HILLARD This month my stitchy plans and my gardening are coming to fruition!

Spring has finally sprung here in Yorkshire and I’m surrounded by growing things!

The seeds I planted are shooting up and the garden is filled with beautiful crisp greens and gorgeous bright pastel crocus, with the promise of tulips by the end of the month. I love this time of year for its colour, promise and overwhelming sense of rebirth everywhere I look. I’ve fallen head over heels in love with Tilda’s new spring fabric collection, Lemon Tree. It’s a delicious mix of sherbert colours and retro florals that take me right back to the summer of 1979! I’ve already made a quilt and pillows with it, and next I’ll be running up some bunting to decorate the garden for my annual Easter party. All my friends’ children are so grown up now but I know the promise of chocolate hidden in the shrubbery is enough to make a child of anyone. This year I’m making fabric baskets that are stiffened with Vilene Decovil… it’s a fantastic and very firm My cute Easter bunny gift bags interfacing that

makes it perfect for baskets and boxes – plus it’s easy to sew! I’ve also been making some adorable drawstring bags from soft buff coloured Essex linen, with little bunny faces embroidered on the fronts and a pair of floppy Tilda ears poking out of the top! How cute is that? Keep your fingers and toes crossed for fine weather… we don’t want soggy bunnies! BLOSSOMING PLANS I’m working hard on some exciting projects for later in the year and next year too... I had a wonderful time launching my first fabric range last year, the Sewing Bumble Bee. It was a big hit with quilters, crafters and dressmakers and I’m thrilled to say I’ll have another fabric range out for early autumn plus some fabrics for Christmas too! I’ll be sharing it with the Sew readers as soon as I can, and of course there will be lots of inspiration and free patterns to support you too.

“Teaching workshops and hearing from stitchers allows me to create patterns that you want to make.” I’m also busy working on a new book which I can’t wait to share… writing books is intense and much of it is done shut away in my studio,

I cannot wait to help judge Dressmaker of the Year again!

but teaching workshops around the UK gives me a chance to share what I’m doing and hear your feedback. It’s the best way to create patterns that other stitchers really want to make. JUDGING TIME! I’m getting myself ready for judging this year’s Dressmaker of the Year competition, and can’t begin to tell you how excited I am or how impressed I’ve been by the standard of entries I’ve seen! A few years ago the home dressmaking industry and fabric crafting in general had seen some seriously better days, but one benefit of leaner economic times is always a shift away from buying and a move towards making. Now, we are enjoying a complete renaissance and the creativity, joy of making and vitality that is out there has quite literally put the life back into the craft I love! I’m super excited to get together with the other judges – it will be great to catch up with Tilly and Portia and to meet Vicky and Libby… we are going to have a tough job but I know it will be fun too. Have a wonderful April and enjoy all the colour, freshness and joy that’s out there this month!

Stuart x

You can check in with Stuart on createandcraft.com channels Virgin 748, Freeview 23, Freesat 813 and Sky 674 or visit stuarthillard.com 52

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23/02/2018 15:33

• PET SPECIAL • PET SPECIAL • PET SPECIAL • PET SPECIAL • PET SPECIAL • PET SPECIAL •

your essential guide to

SEWING FOR PETS Transform your furry friend into a superhero on p56!

We all enjoy sewing nice things for ourselves, plus our loved ones – so why not make a special gift for (wo)man’s best friend as well? Our canine companions lavish us with so much love and attention – give something back by stitching a project they’re sure to appreciate! The patchwork dog bed is perfect for a midday snooze then afterwards, your pooch can go for walkies in style pulling a smart lead. We’ve also got this fun superhero cape (as pictured above) that they can wear, plus a matching child’s version as a bonus online project so your little one can join the fun. And if you’ve got some old T-shirts you’d like to recycle, you can whip up a quick and easy dog toy in no time at all.

Share your makes with us on social media @sewHQ

! Essential guide to pets.indd 2

sewmag.co.uk 23/02/2018 14:55

• PET SPECIAL • PET SPECIAL • PET SPECIAL • PET SPECIAL • PET SPECIAL • PET SPECIAL •

sew

Designer: Corinne Bradd

free template download sewmag.co.uk /templates

Dolly

Martha

Cutting an indent from the front of the dog bed makes it easier for small dogs to climb into

Get started • Two cotton prints (A and B), 1m each • Plain cotton, 2m • 2oz quilt wadding • Toy stuffing • Pillow • Bias binding • 50cm zip

Cutting guide PLAIN COTTON Bed base: cut two 42cm x 62cm rectangles Zip reinforcer: cut one 7cm x 62cm strip Ties: cut sixteen 4cm x 30cm strips Patchwork cover: cut eight 8cm x 12cm rectangles PRINT COTTON Outer bed: cut two 22cm x 42cm and two 22cm x 62cm rectangles from print A Inner bed: cut two 22cm x 42cm and two 22cm x 62cm rectangles from print B Patchwork cover: cut eight 8cm x 12cm rectangles from print A and seven 8cm x 12cm rectangles from print B

Size Interior size: 40cm x 60cm Height: 20cm 1cm seam allowance used unless otherwise stated.

Sew a patchwork dog bed

Download and print the templates at sewmag.co.uk /templates, then cut the pieces according to the cutting guide. Pin the zip reinforcer strip along the centre of one of the plain bed base rectangles and draw a 50cm pencil line down the middle. Stitch around it, 3mm from the line on either side. Cut along the pencil mark, turn the strip through the hole and press. Pin the zip under the slit and topstitch in place, taking care to reinforce the ends of the hole. Place the set of four outer bed rectangles with the zipped rectangle, and the inner bed set with the unzipped rectangle. Use the bed front template to cut an indent centrally from one larger rectangle of each print. Stitch the rectangles around the edges of the plain fabric panels, right sides together, stopping 1cm from each end of the seam. This will form two fat cross shapes. Unzip the zip slightly and place the two crosses right sides together, matching the indent on the bed front. Fold each of the tie strips in half lengthways, right sides together, then sew down the long edge and across one end

with a 5mm seam allowance. Turn each tube right sides out and press. Sandwich the strips between the crosses so the ends of two strips sit on each side seam, one 3cm from the top edge and the other 10cm. Pin in place. Stitch all around the cross shape, making sure the loose ends of the strips aren’t caught in the seam. Turn the fabric through the zip and press. Lay the bed flat and topstitch along the seams, leaving a 10cm gap in the centre. Stuff each resulting pocket, then sew closed with a neat running stitch through both layers.

Dream

MACHINE

STITCH PAWFECTION The Pfaff Quilt Ambition 2.0 is perfect for patchwork, quilting and embroidery projects, offering a large sewing area, wide variety of built-in stitches and an even fabric feed from the top and bottom, thanks to the exclusive IDT system. The bobbin thread sensor alerts when it is running low and the presser foot pressure can easily be adjusted. £969, pfaff.com

23/02/2018 14:56

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6 7

Fit a pillow into the bed base through the zip opening and close. Fasten the ties on the sides of the padded pockets to keep the sides of the bed upright. Sew the patchwork cover rectangles right sides together in a 5 x 5 block with a 5mm seam allowance. Press the panel and layer right side up onto a 40cm x 60cm piece of wadding and plain cotton. Pin together, topstitch along the seam lines to quilt, and trim the wadding and backing to the same size as the patchwork. Bind the edges of the mini quilt with coordinating bias binding and lay over the padded base of the bed.

• PET SPECIAL • PET SPECIAL • PET SPECIAL • PET SPECIAL • PET SPECIAL • PET SPECIAL •

Get started • Five cotton prints, 20cm x 35cm each • Heavyweight interfacing, 1m • Strong thread • One D-ring, 40mm • Dog lead clip with straight edge loop, 30mm

Size Custom-sized

Cutting guide Lead: cut two 10cm x 35cm strips from each fabric 1cm seam allowance used unless otherwise stated.

Stitch a dog lead

Interface the reverse of all five fabrics, then cut out the pieces according to the cutting guide. Cut a selection of lengths from these strips, ranging from 10cm to 35cm. Stitch alternate strips right sides together along the short edges to make one long piece. Sew each seam twice, then press open. Fold the lead in half lengthways, right sides together, then gently press. Pin then stitch down the entire length of the raw edge and short edges twice, leaving a 5cm gap at one end. Turn right sides out. Press again before topstitching down each side with a 5mm seam allowance. Position the D-ring buckle over one end, 5cm down. Fold a 1cm hem inwards on the raw edge, then stitch a rectangle shape through these folds with a cross through the centre for extra reinforcement. Place the clip on the opposite end of the lead, 8cm down from the top. Fold a 2cm hem inwards on the raw edge, pin in place and stitch from this hem up to the top, directly underneath the clip loop and back down again. Stitch a rectangle, again with a cross.

Use the blunt top end of a knitting needle to help gently push the lead right side out

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Paws for thought... • For extra strength, thread a length of 12mm rope or cord through the centre of the lead before attaching the ring and clip. • Whip up a simple matching tote bag for an ‘on-the-go’ treat and baggy holder. • Make the patchwork pieces smaller to use up leftovers from your stash.

! Essential guide to pets.indd 4

Designer: Chloe Hailwood 55

sewmag.co.uk 23/02/2018 14:56

• PET SPECIAL • PET SPECIAL • PET SPECIAL • PET SPECIAL • PET SPECIAL • PET SPECIAL •

Get started • Two medium-weight cottons, 90cm (1.14m wide) each • Felt, two colours (lightning bolt) or four colours (shooting star), 30.5cm of each • Twill tape, 90cm • Water-soluble pen

Download and print the templates at sewmag.co.uk /templates. Cut out the cape pieces according to the cutting guide, then select which appliqué you want to use.

Sizes

Star & star flare appliqué

COLLAR TO HEM Small: 23cm-30.5cm Medium: 30.5cm-40.5cm Large: 40.5cm+

Cutting Guide Outer cape: cut one on the fold from cotton Cape lining: cut one on the fold from contrast cotton Star (optional): cut one each from main and contrast felt Star flare (optional): cut one each from main and contrast felt Lightning bolt (optional): cut one each from main and contrast felt

Create a sidekick cape

Cut out the centre portion of the flare from the top layer, 3mm from the stitching, to reveal the lower layer. Pin the star over the flare, with the star overlapping the flare by 6mm.

Lightning bolt appliqué Pin the lightning bolt templates on the felt or trace around them using a water-soluble marker. Cut out the shapes directly on the marked outlines. Lay the smaller bolt centrally over the larger one, pin and topstitch together.

Cut out the shapes according to the cutting guide, leaving 1cm all around the flare pieces. Pin or fuse the smaller star centrally over the larger one, then topstitch around the edges. Layer the flare pieces, then trace the dashed lines from the template onto the top layer using a water-soluble pen. Pin the two pieces together and stitch along the dashed lines, then around the outside edges. Trim close to the stitching around the outside edges.

Assemble the cape

Topstitch your chosen appliqué in the centre of the outer cape, sewing 3.2mm from the cut edge. Pin the cape and lining right sides together then stitch around the

Find the matching child’s superhero cape at sewmag.co.uk

outside edge, leaving a turning gap as indicated on the template. Trim the seam allowances except for at the opening. Turn the cape right sides out through the gap, using a thin tool to smooth the edges and form crisp corners. Press the edges of the opening to the inside. Topstitch around the entire cape, closing the opening as you stitch. Press the top of the cape towards the lining at the foldline. Stitch the top edge of the cape in place to create a channel for your dog’s collar. You can also add a set of 2cm-long buttonholes within the channel so that you don’t have to remove the collar to attach the cape. To keep the cape from spinning when your dog goes for a run, stitch a piece of twill tape either side so you can tie it in place. Try the cape on your dog first to find the best position for the ties.

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Get the

book Find more fun makes in Superhero Sewing by Lane Huerta. £16.99, quartoknows.com

sew

free template download sewmag.co.uk /templates

Designer: Lane Huerta

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• PET SPECIAL • PET SPECIAL • PET SPECIAL • PET SPECIAL • PET SPECIAL • PET SPECIAL • Designer: Jenelle Montilone

Get started • Old T-shirts, assorted colours • Cutting mat • Rotary cutter

Sizes Custom-sized Note: this makes a toy for a large dog. For smaller breeds, use shorter lengths of T-shirt yarn and fewer pieces.

Make a tug toy

Spread a T-shirt on your cutting mat, smoothing out any creases. Fold in half widthwise, bringing the side edges and sleeves of the garment together. Place a straight-edged ruler just above the bottom hemline. Cut through all four layers using a rotary cutter. When you pick up this fabric it will be a loop that you can cut to the desired length. Cut the T-shirt into several 2.5cm wide loops, then cut these into 50cm lengths. Repeat with other T-shirts to create 20 lengths of T-shirt yarn in different colours. Lay the pieces together in two sets of 10 and twist each set separately in opposite directions. Next, twist the two sections together and tie a large, tight knot securely at each end.

2 3

Get the

book Find more projects for repurposing old tops in The Upcycled T-shirt by Jenelle Montilone. £16.99, searchpress.com

BEST IN SHOW Debbie Humphreys of Redhound for Dogs offers a wide range of patterns and kits to make coats and gifts for your furry friend. Here are her five top tips to sew that perfect dog coat... Measure your dog first! It sounds obvious but you will need some basic

! Essential guide to pets.indd 6

actual coat. This allows you to make any alterations and get the perfect fit before cutting up your fabric. Take your time when cutting the cloth, making sure the grainlines are correct and that you have matched up any checks or stripes. Don’t rush your sewing as this is when mistakes are made. If binding the edges, sew it to the wrong side so your topstitching will be on the right side where it will be neatest.

measurements such as the neck circumference, length from collar to where you want the coat to end, chest circumference and around the body where the strap will go. Choose your fabric carefully. If your pet likes to roll in mud – or something smellier! – you will NEED something that's washable! However, for more demure dogs who love to show off, it may be worth investing in some wool tweed. Always make a toile in calico or old curtain fabric before starting on the

TOGS FOR DOGS Check out Debbie's collection of patterns and kits for dogs of all shapes and sizes at redhoundfordogs.com

sewmag.co.uk 23/02/2018 15:02

Meet the winners of

THE BRITISH SEWING AWARDS 2017

BEST NEW PRODUCT FOR 2017

FAVOURITE SEWING BOOK 2017 Winner Half Yard Vintage by Debbie Shore

Highly Commended • Girl With A Sewing Machine by Jenniffer Taylor • Use Scraps, Sew Blocks, Make 100 Quilts by Stuart Hillard

Winner Clover Mini Wonder Clips

Highly Commended • Fiskars Rotating Cutting Mat • Creative Grids Non-Slip Rulers

BEST THREAD BRAND

Winner Gütermann Highly Commended • Aurifil • Madeira

BEST UK CHAIN STORE

Highly Commended • Hobbycraft • Sew Over It

Winner Liberty of London Highly Commended • Moda Fabric • Makower UK

“I was so excited to receive the Favourite Sewing Book 2017 award for Half Yard Vintage. It was one of my favourite books to write, with projects inspired by the linens and lace my Grandma would have sewn with. Thank you so much to all who voted, I really appreciate it!” Debbie Shore

BEST INDEPENDENT HABERDASHERY SHOP NORTHERN IRELAND Winner Craftswoman Fabrics, Carrickfergus

WALES Winner White Gecko Craft Lounge, Dinas Powys

MIDLANDS Winner Guthrie & Ghani, Birmingham

SOUTH OF ENGLAND Winner Lady Sew and Sew, Henley-on-Thames

Highly Commended • Sew Unique Fabrics, Bangor • Mrs Sew ‘n’ Sew, Portadown

Highly Commended • The Cotton Patch, Birmingham • Sew Me Something, Stratford-upon-Avon

Winner John Lewis

BEST FABRIC BRAND

SCOTLAND Winner The Dress Fabric Company, Edinburgh Highly Commended • Mandors Fabric Store, Glasgow • Butterfly Fabrics, Inverurie

Highly Commended • Lee Mill Fabrics, Swansea • Butterfly Fabrics, Cardiff

Highly Commended • The Village Haberdashery, London • Sew Creative, Petersfield

NORTH OF ENGLAND Winner Fabworks Mill Shop, Dewsbury

Highly Commended • The Fat Quarters, Newcastle upon Tyne • Dolly’s Haberdashery and Sewing School, Warrington

Find your nearest haberdashery store at sewmag.co.uk/local-sewing-shops 58

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FAVOURITE SEWING MACHINES BERNINA Winner Aurora 440 QE Highly Commended • 770 QE • 830

BROTHER Winner FS130QC

Highly Commended • Innov-is 350SE • Innov-is V3

HUSQVARNA Winner Sapphire 870 Quilt Highly Commended • Rose 600 • Designer Jade 35

JANOME Winner DC3050

Winner Simplicity Highly Commended • Vogue • McCall’s

“We’re delighted that Simplicity has won the Best Major Pattern House category for 2017, especially as this award is chosen by Sew's readers – making it an extra special moment for the team. It’s always been our mission to design patterns that people love to sew, from making sure the instructions are simple to follow, to choosing designs that inspire stitchers to get creative – whatever your sense of style.” Simplicity’s Sales & Marketing Director, Jeremy Taylor

BEST EXHIBITION /EVENT 2017

Highly Commended • Atelier 5 • DKS100

JUKI Winner MO-1000

Highly Commended • Exceed HZL-F600 • HZL-DX7

PFAFF Winner Creative 4.5 Highly Commended • Quilt Expression 4.2

BEST MAJOR PATTERN HOUSE

• Performance 5.0

SINGER Winner Confidence 7465

Highly Commended • Stitch Sew Quick • Confidence 7463

TOYOTA Winner Oekaki Renaissance

Winner Festival of Quilts, NEC Birmingham Highly Commended • The Knitting & Stitching Show, Olympia • Hobbycrafts, NEC Birmingham

MOST OUTSTANDING SEW SATURDAY EVENT 2017 Winner Guthrie & Ghani, Moseley, Birmingham

Highly Commended • The Little House of Patchwork, Chichester • Hollies Haberdashery, Newcastle-under-Lyme

Highly Commended • RS2000 • SLR4D MK2

TOP SEWING WORKSHOPS/COURSES Winner Sew Over It, London

Highly Commended • Sew Creative, Petersfield • Lady Sew and Sew, Henley-on-Thames

“We are delighted to have won the Top Sewing Workshops/Courses category! It feels fantastic to be recognised for what we love to do; spreading the joy of sewing, sharing our skills, and empowering others to get creative with their wardrobes. Thank you!” Alex Whatley, Sew Over It

MOST INSPIRATIONAL SEWING PERSONALITY Winner Tilly Walnes

BEST ONLINE RETAILER

Highly Commended • Debbie Shore • Lisa Comfort

Winner Minerva Crafts Highly Commended • Sew Over It • Jaycotts

BEST SEWING BLOG

Winner Tilly and the Buttons Highly Commended • Debbie Shore • Sew Over It

BEST INSTAGRAM

Winner Tilly and the Buttons Highly Commended • Sew Over It • Lauren Guthrie

“Thank you to everyone who voted Minerva Crafts for the Best Online Retailer award. We are absolutely delighted to have won this again and will continue to provide the best choice of products, the best customer service, and lots of inspiring projects and ideas for you in 2018.” Vicki Herron, Minerva Crafts

BEST INDEPENDENT PATTERN HOUSE

Winner Tilly and the Buttons Highly Commended • Sew Over It • Sew Me Something

“We’re delighted to have won four British Sewing Awards for our patterns, blog and Instagram, plus Best Sewing Personality! It means so much to myself and the team to have our hard work recognised by so many people – thank you to everyone who voted for us!”

Tilly Walnes, Tilly and the Buttons

sewmag.co.uk British sewing winners.indd 2

23/02/2018 11:45

Designing for

HAPPINESS

Ruth Maddock uses her sewing skills to change the lives of children with an overwhelming condition

Fun to wear!

Words by Emma Thompson

ry to imagine that all of your clothes are made from extremely rough fabric, full of harsh chemicals and have the rock-hard seams of a Victorian corset inside. That pain and discomfort is all too real and extremely distressing for as many as 1 in 20 children who suffer from Sensory Processing Disorder (SPD), even with seemingly good-quality clothing. However, as Hereford-based knitting and sewing pattern designer Ruth Maddock discovered, it doesn’t have to be that way. Ruth first learned about SPD from her husband, a special educational needs teacher who saw students struggling to learn because of the discomfort and pain they were in from this condition – which is often linked to autism and causes significant problems Lets kids learn!

Outside seams aren’t scratchy

dealing with everyday sensations like touch, sound and balance. At the time, Ruth was studying for a master’s degree in Creative Craft at Hereford College of Arts, where she pattern-cut and constructed garments with a theme of Designing for Happiness. “It became clear that here was a group of children whose lives could be improved just by changing their clothes,” Ruth tells Sew. “They could be made happier and possibly more engaged with their education and society.”

CHEERFUL DRESSING “The aim of the collection was to improve the quality of life for both the children and their carers,” Ruth explains. “Their wellbeing absolutely hangs on the reduction of sensory overload that they experience.” Children with SPD often find seams and labels inside their clothes irritating and painful, so Ruth created a collection of sewing patterns with external seams (worked similar to the flat-felled technique) Non-restrictive fit that are smooth on the inside. Ruth also found that tight necklines, fiddly fastenings and distinguishing the front and back of garments were problematic, so all patterns are loose, FUN TO WEAR pull-on and reversible. As well as taking away irritating The result of this thoughtful components, Ruth came up with a few research was a T-shirt, loose trousers, other features to make these clothes harem pant-inspired shorts and extra special, such as large pockets dresses, plus seam-free knitted items with tags for attaching precious items - and the simple modifications made and even a pocket full of fidget toys to them had a phenomenal impact. “My son couldn’t wait to put them on,” that can have a calming effect, improve concentration and encourage the use of pattern-testing mum Ruth Zuleika fine motor skills. The sewing patterns Cameron-Swan reviewed. “I showed will have a significant effect when made him the ‘clothes designed and made up in any organic cotton knit but Ruth’s especially for people who don’t like edges or labels or scratchy bits like you’ fabric collection, Are We Nearly There and he gave the ‘great clothes that don’t Yet?, was designed especially for these patterns to further engage the children hurt’ a rating of 100%!”

Shop the patterns at ruthmaddockmakes.com 60

sewmag.co.uk

No wrong way

wearing them. A couple of the great design details include a treasure map that can be solved and a QR code that leads to instructions for building a Lego truck. The patterns are also easily customisable according to the needs of the individual child and can all be whipped up by an enthusiastic beginner, thanks to the step-by-step photo instructions. They’re currently available as PDF patterns, with paper versions coming soon. Ruth’s work isn’t done yet, as she’s hoping to release a new collection each year, including a range of school uniforms that will truly help children with SPD to enjoy their best life possible.

Get started • Soft towelling fabric, 68.5cm x 74cm • Printed cotton, 68.5cm x 89cm • Wadding, 23cm x 68.5cm • Double-fold bias binding, 1.3m (1cm wide) • Magnetic clasp

Sizes Cloth: 28cm x 49.5cm Pouch (closed): 19cm x 23cm

Cutting guide Cloth: cut two 25.5cm x 51cm pieces from towelling fabric Cloth back: cut two 33cm x 56cm pieces from cotton Pouch: cut one 23cm x 68.5cm piece each from towelling, cotton and wadding 1.2cm seam allowance used throughout.

BE PREPARED ON THE GO WITH

sew gifts

burp cloths & carry pouch Every parent knows it's vital to have a steady supply of absorbent materials to get through the day, so Debbie Shore’s simple-sew set is a great gift for new families. Using a soft towelling fabric will ensure it’s snuggly against baby’s cheek. You could also add a waterproof layer from an old umbrella for extra protection when out and about – and even fit a nappy in the handy pouch pockets!

Stitch handy cloths

Pin a cloth piece centrally onto the right side of a cloth back, matching one long edge, then sew. Repeat on the opposite long edge to create a tube. Flatten this so the towelling piece is centred with an even cotton border on each side, then press. Stitch across each short edge, leaving a 10cm gap for turning. Turn right sides out, then press. Tuck the seam allowance inside the turning gap, press, then topstitch all around the edge to close. Repeat to make a second cloth.

Make a storage pouch

Lay the wadding pouch piece onto the wrong side of the cotton one, fold each short end by 15.25cm towards the wadding, then press. Open out, measure 2.5cm away from the centre of the fold, then mark. Apply one half of the magnetic clasp on the mark, then repeat on the opposite side. Place the towelling piece onto the wadding, sandwich each short edge inside a strip of bias binding, pin, then sew. Refold the short edges by 15.25cm, then pin. Add bias binding to the edges as before, tuck the edges under to neaten, then sew to create a pouch with two pockets.

get the

book

Find more cute projects in Sew Baby by Debbie Shore (Search Press), £9.99, searchpress.com

Storage pouch

sewmag.co.uk Burp cloths.indd 2

23/02/2018 10:21

Transform fabric scraps into Stuart Hillard’s

GARDEN PILLOW

Whip up a lovely floral accent pillow in record time using the AccuQuilt GO! Baby Fabric Cutter and dies. This project is a great way to try patchwork, quilting and appliqué on a small scale. Use the codes in the Get Started list below to buy what you need online from Create and Craft – and see the next page for a 15% discount off the AccuQuilt GO! Baby Fabric Cutter Starter Set!

Get started

• Cotton prints: light pink floral, aqua, green polka dot, golden yellow, pink floral, red • Plain white cotton, 24.2cm square • Backing cotton, one fat quarter • Fusible webbing (271504) • Polyester wadding (243284) • AccuQuilt GO! Baby Fabric Cutter Starter Set (360199) • AccuQuilt GO! dies: Tumbler, Flower, Owl (360098), Strip Cutter - 2.5 Inch 2 Strips (360190) • Cutting mat: 6” x 6”, 6” x 24” (360207) • Cushion pad, 18” (319461)

Size 43.3cm square

Cutting guide

Flower die: cut one from pink floral and one from red fabric Tumbler die: cut one from aqua fabric Owl die: cut two large circles from golden yellow and four wings from green polka dot fabric Outer border strip: cut two 6.3cm x 106.6cm strips from aqua fabric Inner border strip: cut one 6.3cm x 106.6cm strip from light pink floral fabric Inner border squares: cut four 6.3cm squares from green polka dot fabric 5mm seam allowance used throughout.

The large circles from the owl template will be used to form flower centres and the wings will be leaves

Make a colourful cushion

Iron fusible webbing to the reverse of the cotton prints you’ll be cutting your appliqué pieces from. Once cooled, cut out the pieces according to the cutting guide, using the AccuQuilt GO! Baby and dies, or draw and cut the motifs by hand. Peel the paper backing away. Arrange the flowerpot elements as pictured onto the 24.2cm white square, then fuse in place. Trim the light pink floral strip into four 24.1cm lengths. Sew two of the strips to two opposite sides of the white square. Press the seams towards the strips. Sew a 6.3cm green polka dot square to each end of the other two strips, pressing the allowances towards the strips. Sew the strips with the corner squares to the last two sides of the appliqué centre. Press the seams towards the strips each time.

2 3

Trim two of the aqua strips to a 34.2cm length and another two to 44.4cm. Sew the shorter strips along the top and bottom of the panel and press the seams towards the aqua strips. Sew the longer strips to the sides, again pressing the seams towards the aqua strips. Pin the cushion front on top of a 50.8cm square of quilt wadding. Quilt the panel, sewing 2.5mm within each of the appliqué shapes and around each of the borders. After, trim the panel to 44.4cm square. Cut a 44.4cm square panel from plain cotton for the cushion back. Lay the panel on top of the cushion front, right sides together. Sew around all four sides, leaving an 20.3cm gap on one side for turning. Clip the corners to reduce bulk. Turn to the right side and press carefully. Insert a cushion pad through the opening, then slip stitch the opening closed by hand.

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Join Create and Craft Live Everyday from 8am-10pm on Sky 674, Freeview 23, Virgin 748, Freesat 813, Apple TV and Amazon Fire, or visit createandcraft.com 62

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23/02/2018 10:25

! E R V E SI FF U L RO C EX ADE RE

CREATE AND CRAFT SPECIAL

Get 15% OFF the AccuQuilt GO! Baby Fabric Cutter Starter Set Create and Craft is offering Sew readers this exclusive online discount when you buy the AccuQuilt Go! Baby Fabric Cutter Starter Set, using the code 15GOBABY

Accurately cuts up to six layers of cotton fabric at a time!

Buy the

AccuQuilt GO! Baby Fabric Cutter Starter Set (360199)

Includes the Flower and Tumbler dies and 6” x 6” cutting mat used in this project!

£129.99

at createand craft.com Club members pay £116.99

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SNIP AND STITCH FELT INTO AN Get started • Felt: light and dark green, yellow, blue, pink, orange, red, white • Eight 1.5cm felt balls • Four wooden skewers

Cutting guide

Small stem leaf: cut six from dark green felt Large stem leaf: cut six each from dark green, white and yellow felt Daisy stem leaf: cut 60 each from dark and light green, and yellow felt Daisy: cut one each from green, blue, pink, orange, red and yellow felt Small chrysanthemum: cut five from white and four from orange felt Large chrysanthemum: cut five from red and four from blue felt

everlasting bouquet

We all love the splash of colour and vibrancy that a fresh bunch of flowers brings to our homes, but they never last quite as long as we’d like. Achieve the same cheerful effect on a permanent basis with this easy hand-sewing project by Chloe Hailwood. Daisies and chrysanthemums symbolise new beginnings and friendship, making this a heartfelt gift that will be cherished forever.

sew

free template download

Create the foliage

sewmag.co.uk /templates

Download and print the templates at sewmag.co.uk/templates, then cut out the pieces as indicated in the cutting guide. Wrap the bottom edge of a small stem leaf around the top of a skewer and secure with a couple of stitches. Add two more, working at a different angle each time. Repeat with the large stem leaves, alternating between colours, before finishing with the last three small ones, finishing 5cm from the bottom of the skewer.

Stitch flowers

To make the flower stems, wrap the bottom edge of a dark green daisy stem leaf around the top of a skewer and secure as before. Add another to face the opposite direction, then repeat so that all 60 create a herringbone effect, finishing 5cm from the bottom of the skewer. Repeat with yellow and light green leaves to make two more stems. Sew a line of 5mm-long running stitch along the bottom of a daisy piece, 5mm from the edge. Pull to gather, then secure with a couple of stitches. Sew a contrasting felt ball to the centre. Repeat to make five more. Stitch three daisies to each flower stem at different heights. Place a small white chrysanthemum petal on top of a large red one, matching the inner points. Pinch these points together and make a couple of stitches across to secure. Repeat with the other four red and white petals, plus the orange and blue ones. Stitch the petals together, then add a felt ball to the centre. Stitch both onto the remaining flower stem.

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Make for Mother's Day!

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FOUR WAYS WITH

Liberty

Cottage Garden Get started • Cotton: assorted prints, plain dark pink, white, pink and green • Pale pink felt • 2oz quilt wadding • Toy stuffing • Light blue embroidery thread • Ricrac trim • Ribbon: 10mm wide, 25mm wide • Pom-pom trim • Gold braid • Pink, yellow, and blue 10mm buttons 5mm seam allowance used unless otherwise stated.

Cottage Garden is the latest offering from Liberty, featuring forget-me-nots, bluebells and anemones in warm shades of dusty pink and coral, mixed with lavender, denim and cornflower blue. Sew ’s Corinne Bradd has used this quintessentially English collection to design some suitably retro style projects. These include a sashed half-hexagon quilt, petal drawstring bags, pretty crowns for your little princess, plus an adorable chicken for Easter!

To find your nearest Liberty fabrics stockist, visit eqsuk.com 69

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sew

free template download sewmag.co.uk /templates

size of You can increase the make to s are squ g the startin needs! ur yo t sui to g ba r ge a big

Stitch a vibrant quilt

Sew a drawstring bag

Size: 87cm x 1.3m

Size: 10cm x 13cm (medium), 13cm x 14cm (large)

Download and print the 14.5cm wide hexagon template at sewmag.co.uk /templates, cut it out from card and snip in half. Trim 6.5cm wide strips of seven different cotton prints and trace down the angled sides of the template on the reverse of each to cut the strips into half-hexagons. Cut several 2.5cm wide strips of plain dark pink cotton and join them end-to-end to make sashing. Place the long edge of one half hexagon right side down on the sash, leaving at least 2cm excess at the beginning of the strip. Sew together on the long edge, fold out and finger press the seam to the sash side. Place a ruler along the angled sides of the half-hexagon and use a rotary cutter to trim the sashing strip in line with the halfhexagon. Sash all the other shapes in the same way, then press. Lay a sashed half-hexagon on the left side of your work surface, long edge down and tilt slightly anti-clockwise. Place a second piece with its long bottom against the right-hand angled edge, lining up the top of the first piece with the left side of the second. Flip the second piece

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face-down along its long edge and stitch to the right-hand angled side of the first piece. Unfold and finger press. Lay the joined half-hexagons flat and place a third piece along the combined top and side edge of the first two pieces. Flip over face-down on its long edge and sew to the first two pieces. Unfold and finger press. Continue adding sashed half-hexagons in the same way to build up a ‘plaited’ strip with 28 of them. Use a rotary cutter and ruler to cut straight across the bottom of the plait and stitch the offcut to the top to create neat ends to the strips. Make three more plaited strips in the same way and join together with sashing strips into a quilt top. Add a border of sashing to the quilt top and press. Layer the quilt top out face-up onto 2oz wadding and the white cotton backing fabric. Pin and hand sew the layers together using a coordinating thread at the uppermost corner of every third half-hexagon. Bind the edges of the quilt by joining more 2.5cm wide strips of plain pink cotton end-to-end and sewing as you would with bias binding.

Cut a 26cm or 30cm square each from patterned and plain cotton, then pin right sides together. Stitch around the edges, leaving a 4cm gap in the centre of one edge. Clip the corners and turn right sides out. Fold in the raw edges of the gap and press the square. Topstitch the sides of the square, 2mm from the edges. Measure a third of the way along one side, then fold in and finger press the corner at this mark. Repeat for the other corners to make crease lines at 45° to the square. Topstitch parallel lines 5mm either side of the crease lines to make a channel. Snip a small hole in the lining at the end of each channel. Attach a length of 10mm-wide ribbon to a small safety pin and pass through the channels, fastening the ribbon to itself once back at the beginning. Thread another length through the channels, starting opposite the first drawstring, then tie.

Seal the ends of a length of ricrac braid by holding them close to a flame (but making sure it doesn’t touch and burn) to stop them fraying. Hand sew the ricrac around the inner ‘petals’ of the bag formed by the corners. Pull both drawstrings in opposite directions to close the bag.

Tips for bag-making l Avoid using squares under 20cm unless you are making them from fine lawn fabric – otherwise the gathers will become too bulky for such a small bag. l Use a contrasting patterned fabric for the lining to make a completely reversible bag. l Invest in a bodkin if making lots of these bags – this blunt-ended needle makes light work of threading drawstrings through the channels.

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sew gifts Thanks to Claire Tomlinson for helping us name our mascot! We hope you enjoy your prize – a set of for Madeira threads! Help us with suggestions next month’s toy at facebook.com/sewhq

sew

free template download sewmag.co.uk /templates

sew

free template download sewmag.co.uk /templates

Fashion a crown headband

Make Mother Hen

Size: 9.5cm x 24cm (excl. ties)

Size: 24cm x 30cm

Download and print the crown templates at sewmag.co.uk/templates, then choose one of the two designs and trace it onto the reverse of patterned cotton. Pin the fabric face-down onto plain pink or green cotton but do not cut out just yet. Sew along the drawn line, pivoting at each angle but don’t stitch along the bottom curved line. Trim the fabric to 5mm from the stitching and clip all angles. Turn right sides out, then press. Trace around the crown template onto thin card and cut out 3mm inside the lines. Insert the card crown into the fabric one, carefully pushing the points in one by one to avoid creasing the card.

Run a glue stick along the inside bottom edge of the lining fabric and fold up over the bottom of the card stiffener to secure in place. Finger press the hem at the bottom edge of the patterned fabric in line with the card and slip stitch to the lining. Decorate the crown with rows of pom-pom trim, gold braid, buttons and ricrac trim, sewn by hand through the top layer of fabric only. Cut two lengths of 25mmwide ribbon, hem one end of each and oversew to the back of the crown at either side. Clip the loose ends of the ribbon at an angle to prevent fraying – you could also add a dab of clear nail varnish for added security.

Download and print the hen templates at sewmag.co.uk /templates. Cut one pair of body pieces, adding a 5mm seam allowance around. Cut a body gusset from coordinating fabric and stitch one side to a body piece between the crosses. Sew the remaining body piece to the other edge of the gusset. Stitch the rest of the body pieces together, leaving a gap at the top of the head and tail. Turn the body out through the head gap and stuff firmly. Turn in the raw edges of the gap and finger press, but don’t close yet. Cut two cockscomb pieces from contrast fabric and sew right sides together, leaving the bottom flat edge open. Clip all curves and corners, turn right sides out and stuff lightly. Tack the bottom edge closed, slip the comb into the top of the head, then slip stitch the gap closed. Cut five pairs of tail feathers from assorted fabrics and pair up right sides together. Pin onto wadding and sew around the feathers, leaving the straight edge open. Trim the wadding to size, then turn out.

““These crowns would be great to make for a princess-themed birthday party – the guests can then take them home afterwards in their goodie bags! You could also use the Liberty fabrics to make matching napkins and party bunting”

Corinne Bradd, sew designer

Use two strands of light blue thread to sew running stitch around the edges of the feathers, pulling taut in places to gently curl each one. Gather the feathers in a bunch and sew together at the raw ends. Fit into the gap at the tail and slip stitch closed, so the feathers fan out. Cut two pairs of wings from contrasting fabrics and pair up right sides together onto wadding. Pin and stitch through all layers, leaving a gap along the top straight edge. Trim the wadding to size and turn out. Turn in the edges of the gap and pin. Sew running stitch around the edges of the wings, closing the gap as you go. Pin and slip stitch the wings to either side of the body, leaving the top edges open to use as pockets for treats or sewing supplies. Cut two beak pieces without a seam allowance from pale pink felt, and sew together with running stitch, leaving the curved part open. Lightly stuff and oversew to the front of the head. Add two 10mm blue buttons for eyes.

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LEARN HOW TO FLY STITCH AND EMBELLISH

Susie Johns’ TOTE BAG

An easy embroidery technique to master, fly stitch is very versatile and can be used by itself, to form rows, or to fill in spaces – either scattered or close together. Here, we’ve used the stitch to embroider a message onto a practical cotton bag quickly and easily, using a scattering of fly stitches, then running stitch to outline the letters.

Get started • White cotton drill, 55cm x 65cm • Orange cotton, 66cm x 84cm • Embroidery thread, light orange, medium orange, dark orange • Petersham ribbon, 1.1m (3cm wide) • Erasable marker pen • Crewel needle • Embroidery hoop

Size

30cm x 40cm

Cutting guide

Front/back: cut two 33cm x 42cm rectangles from cotton drill Lining: cut two 33cm x 42cm rectangles from orange cotton Handle: cut two 5cm x 55cm strips from white fabric 1.5cm seam allowance used unless otherwise stated.

Embroider a message

Download and print the motifs at sewmag.co.uk/ templates. Cut out all the pieces according to the cutting guide, draw the design onto one of the white rectangles using an erasable pen, then place the fabric in an embroidery hoop. If the design is too large to fit, embroider one area then move the hoop to another section. Using two strands of thread, outline the large letters in running stitch. Fill in the areas around the words with individual fly stitches (see panel opposite), evenly spaced and facing in different directions. Start with the darkest shade of orange close to the letters, then change to a lighter colour towards the edges of the fabric. If there are any obvious gaps between the fly stitches that are too small to fit another, embroider a single straight stitch instead. Use two strands of light orange to work the small lettering in satin stitch, covering the lines you have drawn.

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loop can either The tying stitch that secures thestitch resembles be short so that the completed like a Y a V, or longer to look

Sew a shopper

Press the embroidery on the reverse to get rid of any creases. Place the bag back and front right sides together, match the edges, then stitch the side seams and base. Make up the lining in the same way. To create a gusset on the two lower corners of the outer bag, open out each corner and flatten, so that the end of the seam is in the centre and

the side and base seams line up. Press, then stitch across each corner, 2cm up from the bottom. Repeat for the lining. Turn the bag right sides out. Press 1.5cm along the top edge to the inside and repeat for the lining. Slip the lining inside the bag. Fold over and tack 1cm on the long edges of each handle towards the centre of the strip. Lay a length of ribbon down the length of a

handle, covering the raw edges of the folds. Stitch down both sides, 2mm from the edge. Repeat for the second handle Insert the ends of the handles between the main bag and lining – the side edges should be 7.5cm from the side seams. Tack in place, then topstitch through all the layers, 4mm from the top edge of the bag.

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sew gifts

Fly stitch

sew

This can be worked singly or in groups, overlapped, or evenly scattered. It can also be worked in rows, both horizontally and vertically. You can alter the look of a single fly stitch by varying the spacing and the length of the anchoring stitch, which is usually referred to as extended fly stitch.

free template download sewmag.co.uk /templates

Bring the needle out at A, hold the thread down and insert the needle a little to the right at B (level with A). Bring the needle back out at C, below and halfway between A and B.

Keeping the thread under the needle, pull the thread through. Insert the needle at D to make a small tying stitch in the centre.

â&#x20AC;&#x153;Fly stitch is best worked with the fabric stretched taut in a hoop. Unless you are stitching a neat row, there is no need to draw guidelinesâ&#x20AC;? Susie Johns, Sew designer

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the

FABRIC EDIT Tilda Cottage, tildasworld.com

We’re huge fans of Tilda’s beautiful fabric ranges here at Sew HQ, which are often packed with rich designs and colour. The Cottage collection is a particular favourite of ours, featuring large and small floral patterns that could have come straight from an heirloom quilt, combining bright red and blue shades with soft green.

Fireworks Red

Botanical Plum

Task table lamp in Swedish green, £59, cuckooland.com

Minnie Red

Red Bouquet coin purse, £3.95, dotcomgiftshop.com

Berry Leaf Sage

Normann Copenhagen Analog magazine rack in red, £97, amara.com

Peony Blossom bedding, £75, cathkidston.com Vintage Daisy tea towel, £4.95, dotcomgiftshop.com

Sigrid Blue Green Regency teacup, £8.95, dotcomgiftshop.com

Sigrid Dove White

Find Cottage and other Tilda collections at createandcraft.com

Tilda Cottage Dove White

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SEW APRIL 2018 master_SEW 23/02/2018 14:21 Page 75

www.online-fabrics.co.uk

388-394 Foleshill Road, Coventry, West Midlands CV6 5AN

Tel: 02476 687776 | Email: info@online-fabrics.co.uk

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THE NATIONWIDE CAMPAIGN SUPPORTING

HIGH STREET STITCHING & HABERDASHERY SHOPS

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How became cool

Jamie Chalmers, aka Mr X Stitch, reveals how today’s designers are giving this historic technique a contemporary edge Words by Melissa Hyland

ention the words ‘cross stitch’ and what often comes to mind is an image of a young Victorian lady stooped earnestly over a traditional floral pattern. Whilst such designs are still readily available, these days you can also see more contemporary creations inspired by the latest pop culture, with people selling their own patterns on the crafty online marketplace Etsy that are quirky, sassy, and even downright rude! It’s a far cry from the earliest versions of cross stitch, which is believed to have its origins in blackwork, brought to England by Catherine of Aragon in the sixteenth century. The technique was used in samplers, which were originally created as a reference for embroidery stitches before becoming decorative objects in their own right during the 18th century. Although needlework is traditionally seen as something for women, the methods were developed very early on by male craftsmen – and today we can see people of all genders – and age groups – taking up this needlecraft.

A WHOLESOME CRAFT

One of the best-known cross stitchers is Jamie Chalmers, who is also known as Mr X Stitch. Having discovered cross stitch 16 years ago, he is on a mission to share the benefits of this

Pop culture provides great sources of inspiration for Jamie’s designs!

technique – and subvert any lingering notions of it being old-fashioned or only for women. “It all began when I was looking for something to do on a long haul flight to Canada and saw a cross stitch kit in a haberdashery shop,” he tells Sew. “Imagining the reactions of the other passengers when they saw a man of my size doing cross stitch made me laugh, so I bought it. I didn’t do it on the plane in the end, but when I got to Canada I gave it a go and instantly fell in love with the technique.”

Cross stitching on top of Mount Snowdon!

“One of the things I like so much about cross stitch is that it makes me feel really relaxed and peaceful” For Jamie, it was the meditative aspect of cross stitch that he enjoyed most, providing an antidote to the hectic pace of everyday life. “There’s a repetition to the stitch that slows you down. You’re caught up in the moment, creating something and not really thinking about anything else,” Jamie explains. “One of the things I liked so much was that it made me feel really relaxed and peaceful – the complete opposite to playing video games, which used to wind me up something rotten!” After that first kit, Jamie searched for more designs that he was interested in. Back then, there wasn’t such a wide variety available and so he gravitated towards patterns and kits based on historic artwork. “Then one day, I discovered a piece of computer software for creating your own cross stitch patterns! It was so very liberating because I could suddenly make designs that reflected my personal tastes,” Jamie explains. “In 2008, I launched an Etsy store to sell some of my patterns plus a blog alongside, and called myself Mr X Stitch. Then in 2011, I appeared on Kirstie’s Handmade Britain. Since then I’ve built up a successful brand via social media, teaching workshops and having a stand at shows.”

Try some of Jamie’s designs in his book! £12.99, searchpress.com

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Pick up a hoop, some Aida and threads, then you’re good to go!

Find the project to make Jamie’s Fleur de Couleur design at sewmag.co.uk

JAMIE’S CROSS STITCH’S TIPS • If you’re just starting out, buy a kit to try it first – it’s like a practise run. • Don’t worry about the back – if it looks messy, you can always hide it. • Good lighting is important – always make sure you can see properly, because headaches aren’t fun. • Remember to stretch every now and again. It’s easy to get caught up in your cross stitch – before you know it, you’ve been doing it for five hours without a break! • Enjoy the process and don’t beat yourself up if it’s not perfect first time.

CROSS STITCH COMMUNITY

When Jamie first launched himself as Mr X Stitch ten years ago, he was inspired by the popularity that cross stitch was already enjoying in the US and Australia. “There were already a few craft movements at that time, plus a documentary called Handmade Nation about people who were into crafts,” Jamie recalls. “Then I found a website called craftster.org which was a big game changer for me, because it was somewhere for people to share their creations. It was great to see and I thought that one day soon, cross stitch will become pretty cool over here in the UK as well.” Today, the cross stitch community is thriving both here and overseas – as Jamie points out, sites like Pinterest provide a great resource for ideas, while Instagram offers a platform to share what you’ve made. “I think that proportionally, the UK has done a better job of helping cross stitch evolve than a lot of other countries because we’re so condensed – making it easier for crafters to connect with one another and share ideas,” Jamie continues.

This cross stitch recreates Nirvana’s classic album cover

“In the UK you only have to travel three hours to go to a good show like the Knitting & Stitching or the Sewing Bee Live, whereas in the US and Australia you often have to cross time zones in a plane. Those countries may have more people doing cross stitch but I reckon that in the UK there’s more interesting stuff coming through naturally.”

TEACHING & SHARING

Jamie has contributed a lot to the UK cross stitch scene himself – in addition to his patterns, he has recently published a book last year, The Mr X Stitch Guide To Cross Stitch (£12.99, searchpress.com) which is packed with contemporary designs. His website also celebrates the work of other designers and features regular articles such as Stitchgasms and NSFW (Not Safe For Work!) Saturdays “We’re taking it seriously but not too seriously. I guess we’ve got a unique selling point from that, and also because I’ve put my hand up and said, ‘Look, I’m a man who enjoys cross stitch and embroidery,’” he says. This year, Jamie plans to redesign his website and set up a YouTube channel, plus he’ll be holding a cross stitch exhibition at Camden House in Sussex, featuring a variety of artists. If you’d like to learn from him directly, he’ll be teaching a workshop at the Handmade Fair at Wragley Hall in May, with more to come later on. “I’ve taught hundreds of people how to

Interested? Why not try a Mr X Stitch workshop?

cross stitch and I love that moment when they settle into it and you can see their soul being soothed by what’s happening,” he says. “It’s like the trend for adult colouring books – both are mindful activities, but cross stitch is better because you can give your handiwork as a present that will be treasured forever.”

To find out more about Jamie’s latest projects and events, visit mrxstitch.com You can also purchase his patterns at etsy.com/shop/mrxstitch 77

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WORK VARIOUS STITCHES TO EMBROIDER A

Get started • Linen fabric, 23cm square • DMC embroidery thread: coral (351), ecru, golden olive (832), hunter green (895), peach (754), moss (580), straw (3820), topaz (780) • Erasable marker pen • Embroidery hoop, 13cm • Backing fabric • Hot glue gun

Size 13cm diameter

wildflowers hoop Designer Cristin Morgan has combined several basic stitches in this colourful nature-themed design, rather like a traditional sampler. If you’re new to embroidery, this is a great project to learn a number of techniques – use Cristin’s guide (right) to recreate her design or experiment with other stitches to create your own unique version.

sew

Embroider a hanging

free template download

sewmag.co.uk /templates

Download and print the template at sewmag.co.uk /templates. Transfer the motifs onto the linen using an erasable marker, then secure it centrally into your hoop. For the leafy fronds in moss, work fern stitch with four strands. For the topaz branch, backstitch the stem and use detached chain stitch for the leaves, working with four strands. Work the daisy petals with four strands of ecru and lazy daisy stitch, then add French knots in the centres with six strands of straw. Work the roses with woven wheel stitch in four strands of coral. For the large golden olive branch, use straight stitch for the leaves and stem stitch up the middle, working with four strands. Use hunter green to create the foliage with four strands in granitos stitch, then work French knots for the buds with four strands of peach. Remove the work from the hoop and cut backing fabric to the same size. Place the backing and embroidery wrong sides together, then secure in the hoop. Trim the backing fabric close to the edge of the hoop. Trim around the embroidery, leaving 2cm excess all around. Use a hot glue gun to apply a line of adhesive to the inner edge of the hoop. Allow to cool for a few seconds, then press the fabric around the edge of the hoop and over the glue. Continue to work around the frame until the fabric has been completely secured.

2 3

4 5

get the

book Find more embroidery projects in Hoop Art by Cristin Morgan. £12.99, searchpress.com

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sew LEARN

Embroidery STITCH GUIDE USE THESE TECHNIQUES TO BEAUTIFUL EFFECT Embroidery allows you to create all kinds of decorative motifs onto fabric, using just a needle, thread and a few clever techniques. Here is a guide to some of the basic stitches featured in Hoop Art by Cristin Morgan – try using them to make the wildflowers hoop on the left!

FRENCH KNOT FIG A: 1 Bring the needle up at 1. Holding the thread taut with the finger and thumb of your other hand, tightly wind the thread twice around the tip of the needle.

STEM STITCH FIG A: Bring the needle up at 1, down 1 3 at 2 and 5 4 up at 3, 2 halfway between 1 and 2, above the stitch. Bring the needle down at 4 and up next to 2 (at 5), above the stitch. Repeat to the end of the line. Each stitch should be the same length, and begin halfway along the previous stitch.

DETACHED CHAIN & LAZY DAISY STITCH

FIG B: For a broader line, angle the needle slightly so that it is inserted below the required line and brought out just above it, a tiny distance above the end of the previous stitch.

Bring the needle up at 1 and insert it next to the same place, leaving a loop of thread on the surface of the fabric. Bring the needle up at 2, inside the loop, and down at a point outside the loop, making a tiny stitch to hold it in place. 1 Repeat as required. 2 When worked in a circle, this is called ‘lazy daisy stitch’.

2 5

4 7

GRANITOS STITCH 1

Bring the needle up at 1 and down at 2. Repeat, always coming up and going down next to the same holes. Continue as required, until the stitch is the desired size.

FIG B: Still holding the thread, insert the needle very close to 1 and pull it through to the back of the work, so the twists are lying neatly on the surface of the fabric. Repeat as required. For a smaller French knot, wrap the thread around the needle just once in Fig A. For a larger knot, wrap the thread three or four times.

WOVEN WHEEL STITCH FIG A: Mark the fabric 1 with a circle, then divide the circle with an odd number of evenly spaced dots. Work an odd number of radiating stitches, or ‘spokes’, by bringing the needle up through each outer dot and in through the circle. Bring a blunt needle up at 1. FIG B: Weave over the first ‘spoke’ and under the next. Continue 2 weaving as required, until you reach the ends of the spokes. Pull the first few rounds of weaving tightly to close up the centre, but make later rounds looser so that they lie flat. When the weaving is complete, insert the needle under the previous round of weaving (e.g. at 2)

FERN STITCH Bring the needle up at 1 and down at 2 to make the centre stitch in the required direction. Bring the needle up at 3, down at 2, up at 4 and down again at 2. Repeat as required. The three stitches in each group can all be the same length, with equal angles between them, or they may be varied to create foliage effects as required.

1 4 2

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enter online at sewmag.co.uk/giveaways Mini backpack kit

This kit contains all the materials you need to make your very own mini backpack, which is much easier than you might think. The super cute bag by craft kit startup Craftess comes in a choice of all-over denim or with a pink zipper and lining, and even has a handy card-size zipped pocket on the front. Buy the kit from craftess.com We have four kits to give away. To enter, tick CRAFTESS

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Specially adapted from a painting by Cindy Lass that hangs in the Queen’s private quarters, this large printed canvas needlepoint kit will be a joy for experienced needlepointers. Using Appleton’s crewel wools, you will tent stitch Her Majesty’s beloved pooches on 14-count colour printed canvas, creating a beautiful decoration for your home. Kits available from cindylass needlepoint.com We have one kit to give away. To enter, tick CORGIS

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Head over to spenceroggpatterns.etsy.com where you will find some of the most ingenious accessory patterns available – like the family passport holder, which allows you to carry up to six passports together safely! The lined Switch backpack has a large feature pocket on the front and another in the main zipped compartment, plus transforms effortlessly into a messenger bag. We have 13 of each PDF pattern to give away. To enter, tick PASSPORT or SWITCH

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Never lose sight of your suitcase on the carousel again with the help of this luggage tag, made from real leather by Maid In China. Its perforated grid is ready to be stitched with initials, a country flag or bespoke design, using the adorable plane-shaped travel threads to create a personalised label. Available in brown and grey at maidinchinadesign.com We have six luggage tags to give away. To enter, tick LUGGAGE

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sew gifts

LEARN ENGLISH PAPER PIECING TO MAKE A

Get started • Patterned fabric scraps • Fusible webbing • Stuffing • Planter or similar pot • Glue

Size

Custom-sized

planter pincushion

How many loose pins are dotted around your sewing space, having rolled off the table never to be seen again? Here, English Paper Piecing, the technique of folding and hand-stitching fabric over a template then joining the numerous shapes, has been used for this cute flower-adorned pincushion by Kerri Horsley. This one sits inside a vintage planter but you can have fun seeking out the perfect vessel around your home.

Sew a pincushion

Cut seven hexagons from our templates below, making all seven the same size. Pin each one to the reverse of a different patterned fabric square. Trim, leaving a 1cm border around the paper. Fold the fabric over one side of a hexagon and tack through the paper, then repeat with the other sides. Fasten off, then repeat with the remaining six hexagon shapes. Place two hexagons right sides together, then whipstitch along one edge with small, close stitches through the fabric only. Repeat along the next edge of one of the hexagons with another piece, then add the rest so there are six around it in a honeycomb formation. Whipstitch the adjacent sides of the ‘petals’ as for the centre, right sides together, then press. Remove the tacking and paper inserts. Cut fusible webbing slightly smaller than this piece, then iron to the reverse. Cut two pieces of fabric that are 6.5cm larger than the planter opening (e.g. for a 7.5cm x 10cm planter, cut a 14cm x 16.5cm piece) and sew the appliqué flower to the centre of one of them for the front, stitching close to the edge. Pin this right sides together to the other piece, then stitch around, leaving a 5cm gap. Turn right sides out and push out the corners. Stuff, then slip stitch the gap closed. Place more stuffing inside the planter, then glue around the top edge and place the pincushion inside.

2 3

4 5

template that Choose the hexagon r best fits your containe Hexagon templates

1.3cm

1cm Note: enlarge template if desired to suit the size of your containers

get the

book

Find more scrapfriendly projects in Lovely Little Patchwork by Kerri Horsley. £14.95, tuvapublishing.com

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who does what... Editor, Jennifer Ward jennifer.ward@aceville.co.uk 01206 505420 Deputy Editor, Melissa Hyland melissa@aceville.co.uk 01206 505423 Editorial Assistant, Emma Thompson emma.thompson@aceville.co.uk 01206 505917 Publishing Director, Helen Tudor Group Editor, Lynn Martin Advertisement Sales Hannah Suttling hannah.suttling@aceville.co.uk 01206 505495 Anna Spilsbury anna.spilsbury@aceville.co.uk 01206 505932 Sarah Collins sarah.collins@mspublications.co.uk 01206 506255 Jackie Weddell jackie.weddell@mspublications.co.uk 01206 506221 Jo Bluck jo.bluck@aceville.co.uk 01206 506253 Art Director, Phil Dunham Designers Gemma Eales & Cat Morton Ad Production, Angela Scrivener Photography CliQQ Photography, cliqq.co.uk Models Abbie L, Chloe H, Gingersnap, Kelsey, Rachel Haddon, Nevs Fashion stylist, Boo Hill Hair and Make up, Dottie Monaghan Accounts, Denise Bubb 01206 505958 Subscription Enquiries/Back Issues 0330 333 0042 Website Enquiries webmaster@sewmag.co.uk

your

SEWING GUIDE

Get to grips with the dressmaking basics! THE PERFECT FIT

The key to successful fitting is taking accurate body measurements to ensure you get the right size for you. Pattern sizes aren’t the same as high street clothing sizes, so don’t be tempted to skip this stage. Once you’ve taken your measurements, compare them to those on the pattern envelope. You can then make any alterations that are necessary. Cut out the tissue paper according to the size closest to the measurements you have selected, choosing the best fit (for dresses, blouses and jackets) in the bust and shoulder, as this area is harder to adjust. If your waist or hip measurements are out of proportion according to the standard pattern size, then simply graduate in or out to reach the relevant waist or hip lines to your size.

l Measure yourself in your underwear, preferably in the bra you will be wearing. l Use a new tape measure as they can distort out of shape over time. l Ask a friend to help you, especially with tricky measurements such as your back-neck to waist, and height. l Be honest with your measurements and remember that pattern sizes are totally different to ready-to-wear high street sizing. l Use your measurements to help you adjust the pattern to fit your shape, not forgetting to take the required amount of ease into account.

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TAKING YOUR MEASUREMENTS

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HIGH BUST FULL BUST Published By Aceville Publications Ltd 21-23 Phoenix Court, Hawkins Road, Colchester, Essex CO2 8JY © Aceville Publications Ltd. 2018 Toy safety: please note that toys with small parts are not suitable for children under three years of age. If making a toy for a very young child omit any buttons and embroider the details instead. Babies should be supervised when playing with toys. All projects from this issue and the FREE online patterns are for personal home use only and cannot be sold or used for commercial purposes. All patterns that are featured in Sew are reproduced in good faith that they do not infringe any copyright. The publishers are not responsible for any safety issues arising from any items created from projects contained within Sew magazine. While all possible care has been taken to ensure the accuracy of all projects, we are not responsible for printing errors or the way in which individual work varies. Please read instructions carefully before starting construction.

WAIST HIPS

Measure while wearing the usual underwear you will be wearing and hold the tape measure comfortably snug, but avoid pulling tight.

HEIGHT Standing against a flat wall without wearing shoes, measure from the floor to the top of your head. HIGH BUST Measure directly under the arms, straight across the back and above the bust. FULL BUST Take the tape measure around the fullest part of your bust and straight across the back. WAIST Tie a length of narrow elastic around the waist and let it settle naturally at your waistline, then measure over it. Keep the elastic handy for future garments. HIPS Measure around the body at the fullest part. This is usually 18-23cm below the waist.

Find this yoke dress pattern for FREE at sewmag.co.uk

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IN ASSOCIATION WITH

wear with

EASE

‘Ease’ is the amount required in a garment so you can move readily. Consider the fit you want – are you looking for a loose or close-fitting garment? “Wash your fabric before you sew to allow for any shrinkage, then press as you go. Don’t cut facings on the bias.” CAROLINE BOARDWELL REID, CROFT MILL

PREPARE YOUR PATTERN

Your pattern pieces can easily become crumpled when stored in the envelope, so it’s a good idea to give them a press before starting. This can be done as individual pieces or as one big sheet before cutting out. Use a cool setting on your iron, being careful not to burn the paper. Pressing the pattern will help ensure your fabric pieces are accurately cut.

CONSIDER YOUR FABRIC

SELVEDGES

FOLD

MULTIPLE SIZE CUTTING LINES These lines indicate dress sizes. Highlighting yours can help with cutting.

BUST/HIP INDICATORS Located at the bust and hip points on the pattern – make any necessary adjustments if yours don’t fall there.

TUCKS AND GATHERS Bring these lines together before stitching.

GRAINLINE Align this mark with the grain of the fabric i.e. parallel to the warp (see below).

.LENGTHEN/SHORTEN HERE This is an opportunity to customise the pattern to your preferences.

BUTTON / BUTTONHOLE PLACEMENTS These indicate where buttonholes should be made on a garment.

FOLD LINE This mark indicates that the pattern piece should be positioned along the fold of the fabric, creating a larger ‘mirrored’ piece.

MISCELLANEOUS MARKINGS These come in a range of sizes and are used as points of reference on a pattern to indicate where pieces should be placed.

NOTCHES Match two pieces of fabric together at these points.

“When making your yoke dress (opposite), work two rows of gathering on the right side of your fabric where instructed on the bodice with the largest machine stitch. The first row is on the fitting line and the second is 6mm away on the seam allowance. Pin the dress to the yoke, right sides together. The bobbin threads of the gathering stitch will now face you and be easier to pull up – don’t forget to wind one pair of thread ends round a pin to stop them escaping.” MAY MARTIN, SEWING PERSONALITY

UNDERSTAND YOUR FABRIC

PLACING YOUR PIECES

Getting to grips with your fabric is a fundamental part of sewing. Before you start, familiarise yourself with:

With the paper pattern pieces facing up, place them onto the fabric. Some pieces will need to be placed on the fold of the fabric (where it’s folded in half, giving you a mirrored piece), which will be indicated on the individual pattern pieces themselves. Most patterns offer stitchers a layout guide for the placement, according to the width of your fabric. This helps you get the most from your fabric, and avoids wastage. Tissue paper patterns allow the motifs of the fabric to show through, which helps with pattern matching so you can adjust if necessary. Pattern pieces that are not indicated to be placed on the fold need to be placed on the material with the grainline arrow running parallel to the selvedge. Measure the distance from one end of the arrow to the selvedge, repeat for the other side of the arrow, and move the pattern piece slightly until both measurements are the same. Once you’re happy with the placement of your pattern pieces, carefully pin to secure.

WARP These are the yarns that run the length of the fabric. They are stronger than weft yarns and less likely to stretch.

WEFT These run over and under the warp threads across the fabric from selvedge to selvedge. BIAS The bias grain runs 45° to the warp and weft of the fabric. Cutting garments on the bias creates a finished piece that will follow the contours of the body. SELVEDGE The non-fraying, woven edges that run parallel to the warp grain is the selvedge

S BIA

Before you begin to cut out pattern pieces, it’s a good idea to wash your fabric first. This means that you will know how the material reacts and also reduces the chance of shrinkage in your completed garment. Once the fabric has been washed, press it with an iron using a suitable heat setting. After, lay out your fabric on a large surface, ready to begin pinning and cutting.

READING A PATTERN

The basic markings you will find on commercial dressmaking patterns are important to familiarise yourself with. These marks indicate various techniques or steps and are best transferred onto your fabric pieces once you’ve cut them.

Hojo lilac poplin, £6.95 per metre, croftmill.co.uk

WARP

WEFT

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**ALL SEWN UP classified APRIL 18_ALL SEWN UP 22/02/2018 16:12 Page 86

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sew BOOKS

the BOOKS we’re loving... Our favourite titles to unwind with this month

Vogue On Dolce & Gabbana

by Luke Leitch and Ben Evans What does it take for a two-man design startup to become a multi-billion-pound international fashion superbrand? This tiny tell-all tome charts the creative partnership between Domenico Dolce and Stefano Gabbana, two men with a deep understanding of clothing and how it can make women feel beautiful and powerful. Quadrille Publishing, £16.99, quadrille.com

Flowerbomb!

by Hannah Read-Baldrey Very possibly the prettiest paperback we’ve ever laid our eyes on, with the purpose of creating ‘a decorative explosion of flowers across your home’, this colourful book is sure to brighten your day. It features 25 creative projects, from a giant felt floral wreath to a gorgeous rose-inspired skirt, with sweet treats and home makes galore in between. Pavilion Books, £14.99, thegmcgroup.com

Tilly And The Buttons: Stretch! by Tilly Walnes

The entire sewing world has been impatiently awaiting the release of Sew contributor Tilly Walnes’ latest release, and for good reason. Full-size patterns are included so even knit newbies will be able to make six of the comfiest, cutest, me-made garments of their lives in no time at all - thanks to Tilly’s awardwinning explanations! Quadrille Publishing, £22.50, quadrille.com

Pattern Cutting: The Architecture Of Fashion by Pat Parish

This new edition of a popular and inspirational sourcebook is a must-have for all budding designers. You’ll quickly get to

grips with basic blocks and learn how to make 2D pieces come to life as 3D designs with advice on cutting, draping and construction based on three decades of fashion and textile education experience. Bloomsbury Publishing, £32.99, bloomsbury.com

The Art Of Stripes by Libby VanderPloeg

Not strictly sewing related, but this beautifully illustrated guide to everything from the humble Breton to the sleek pinstripe will inspire you to invite even more of the chic print into your wardrobe. Take style inspiration from Alexa Chung, Coco Chanel and Sarah Jessica Parker – and wear your stripes with pride. Hardie Grant Books, £9.99, hardiegrantbooks.com

Expert guidance for skill-seekers!

Embroidery: A Maker’s Guide by V&A

Flipping through the pages of this book is almost as good as walking through the V&A museum, except that beside each ancient artifact from around the world is a beautiful step-by-step project inspired by the original. Journey around the globe in your crafts room, from the intricate goldwork of England to the beetle-wing embellishment of India, then develop your own rich designs using your newfound skills. Thames & Hudson, £16.95, thamesandhudson.com

One-Patch Quilts by Carolyn Forster

If you still haven’t caught the quilting bug, prepare to get wide-eyed and inspired. Although it may seem small, this mighty book unveils the potential magic of shapes as simple as the hexagon, triangle and square. By playing with prints, colour and tessellation, Carolyn Forster creates 20 lovely quilt designs using only one shape each meaning easier cutting out! Search Press, £4.99, searchpress.com

Easy intro to quilting!

sewmag.co.uk

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