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£9.99 | Issue 32 March 2018

20 ALL NEW OUTFITS

To wear in sizes

6-28 APPROX UK SIZING

*

Pattern Pull-out:

4 SKIRT SPECIAL

start making today!

Easy Stitch

TWO-IN-ONE Create Your Style for Summer

Simple top

in two-hours!

FOR ANY SHAPE k 5 quic n patter s hack ! inside

SEWING ROOM

Secrets

KNOW YOUR NAP CONTOUR DARTS TRICKY FABRICS MASTERED

MAKE IT TODAY ISSUE 32_MAKE IT TODAY 22/02/2018 11:11 Page 2

ISSUE 32

Welcome…

This issue is sure to put a spring in your step: we’ve packed the following pages with plenty of gorgeous ideas for the perfect transitional wardrobe, all sure to have you dusting off the sewing machine ready for action. Our freebie pattens will help get you ready for summer, with versatile all-in-ones (p13) and classic shift dresses (p25) offering plenty of flattering options, whether you are at work or play.

We’ve also got a chic Chanel-style box jacket (p51) that you can slip over a smart dress or team with a shirt and jeans, so when friends ask, ‘Where did you get that?’ you can say, ‘Why, I made it myself!’

Alongside these project gems, we’re celebrating the country’s finest designs in our Fabric Love section to inspire your next creation. Working with light, silky fabrics is a bit of a bugbear for readers, so we’ve also asked our industry pros to share their insights on how to master this sometimes problematic area of dressmaking (p32).

There are plenty of treats in this issue, too, with a bumper skirt pattern pack in our exclusive pull-out. Plus, we’ve got sewing kits, thread bundles and books to win (p46). Check out the snazziest tools for your workroom (p11) and the pick of the best overlockers to buy (p40).

From me and the team, tuck in!

Sarah

Contents YOUR FREE GIFT

13 Easy Jumpsuits Join forces with a fuss-free top and trews combo 25 Classic Shift Frocks away, with this pretty dress pattern 19 Four Season Skirts Use your free pullout for easy fits guaranteed

BONUS MAKES

30 Waist-Tie Top The capsule essential you can stitch in three hours 48 Button Midi Skirt We’re all in a twirl, thanks to this dreamy figure-pleaser 42 Tie-Belt Dress Gorgeous crepe drape with a no-pattern pullover frock 51 Chanel Jacket Stitch your homage to the queen of couture 60 Raglan Sweater Embrace your soft side with a jersey classic 62 Patchwork Tote Sew all your cherished scraps into one corking carrier 67 Tulip Top Amanda Walker’s tribute to a popular seasonal bloom

RELAX AND READ

4 Sew Central Stitches that are quite simply out of this world!

8 News Animal jersey, dungaree patterns and pineapple gifts

32 The Luxe Factor Read our glossy guide to silky sewing with help from some truly smooth operators 44 Sewing Detective Home-made broderie anglaise with Lorna Knight 55 Workshops Get the better of bulky seams with this denim dream team 71 The Practicals Our experts show you how to adapt a pattern 74 Interview: Melissa Fehr Galvanising pattern designer springs into action

SHOWCASES

18 Simplicity Catwalk Ready Seams delightful with a slinky skater dress 28 Simplicity Pencil Pretty Heather Jacks on the definitive wardrobe winner 58 Simplicity Easy Wear Trousers Relaxed flares and cigarette styles with pockets and pleats

REGULARS

5 Your Free Gift 11 Essential Kit 38+56 Fabric Love 40 Tools on Test 46 Giveaways 54 Reader Offer 70 Coming Next Month

Sarah Crosland, Editor

Meet our experts!

ANEKA TRUMAN Dressmaking teacher and creator of Made to Sew

KRISTIANN BOOS Victory Patterns designer, seamstress and instructor

TILLY WALNES Beloved dressmaking personality, writer and pattern guru

Special offers 13 Free pattern: Simplicity 1355 All together wow, thanks to this romper, maxi and jumpsuit pattern 25 Free pattern: New Look 6022 Elegant binding and pleating with a four-way frock and bag combo 16 New Look 6378, 50% off High-low, full-length or fringed, this kimono pattern has it all covered 16 New Look 6346, 50% off Work your A-line with easy fastenings: instant picks for travel hits

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Be inspired

ONLINE

Established in the industry for over 40 years, Sew Creative is your online stop for top-of-therange sewing machines from your favourite brands.

Stocking Bernina, Janome, Singer, Pfaff and Husqvarna models, it offers something for everyone. If you’re ever in the Cambridge or Norwich areas, don’t forget to pay Sew Creative a visit and discover all the fabulous fabrics and sewing accessories available.

The staff members pride themselves on being knowledgeable about all of the items stocked. sewcreative.co.uk

SEW

l a r t n ce

OUR I N T E R E ST FAV E S Out of this World

Your chance to show us how it’s done

Vibrant hues, fitted silhouettes and statement prints are all on our sewing radar this season, and now that the sun is shining we can dare to be bolder with fashion choices. We’ve got our eyes on fabulous printed fabrics that are just longing to be made up into sensational garments to don at barbecues and parties. Can you tell we’re excited? Don’t forget to share your fabulous makes with us via email, Twitter or Facebook to be in with the chance of winning a prize!

Instantly update your wardrobe with an appliqué moon patch. etsy.com/shop/ WildflowerandCompany

W E H E A RT. . .

Happy 25th birthday to one of the nation’s best loved brands, Cath Kidston! To mark the occasion, the team is kicking off the celebrations in true style with a fabulous limited edition collection inspired by the brand’s history. You’ll find a fresh take on the stylish designs it’s become famous for over the past decade and a half, including: a birthday stripe that pays homage to its British heritage, a stunning painterly floral print and sweet characters who have been created especially. See the full collection at cathkidston.com

Over to you

ON FACEBOOK AND TWITTER, WE ASKED YOU... WHAT ARE YOUR FAVOURITE EMBELLISHMENTS?

“I love trying out funky buttons: they can alter a garment completely” WENDY FORD “Pearls and diamantés are my guilty pleasure at the moment” LUCY HILLS “My little girls are making me stitch fun patches on all their clothes!”

CHERYL LAMBOURNE

FOR NEXT TIME:

If you could be a master of another craft, what would it be and why?

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Your latest makes

I made this jacket and skirt using patterns which previously came free with Dressmaker.

The jacket is made from a light synthetic woven fabric and I adapted the skirt to a pencil shape.

Joanna Gavriel, via Facebook Wow, great use of our free patterns!

Simple embroidery and fringing transforms a sheet of fabric. homemaker magazine.co.uk

Revamp a plain top into a dazzling wonder with space motifs! whatkatiesews.net

How to get in touch

I’ve stitched knee length shorts in preparation for the warmer weather.

I edged the anchor fabric with a contrast gingham.

Annette Pilmoor, via email Gorgeous, and soon you will be able to wear them!

Write to the team: Sew Central, Make It Today, 1 Phoenix Court, Hawkins Road, Colchester, CO2 8JY Email: Send your pictures to elena.thompson @aceville.co.uk Tweet: @makeittodaymag or visit twitter.com/ makeittodaymag Follow: instagram.com/ makeitdressmaker

YO U W I N . . .

Join our sewing hub at facebook.com/ makeittodaymag

Readers with featured makes win a Long Island fat quarter bundle and thread from Gütermann. gutermann@stockistenquiries.co.uk

Browse our boards: pinterest.com/ makeittodaymag

9ee patterns fr SPRING SAVVY LOOKS WITH YOUR

This Month’s patterns

What’s your size?

This duo offers breezy basics for spring strolls and seasonal soirees.

Get started with Simplicity 1355, which will have you jumping for joy with its selection of all-in-one pieces, while New Look 6022 exudes minimal chic with simple-silhouette shifts. Which one will you make first?

When selecting a pattern, it is important to use your body measurements, not your ready-to-wear size. The style of the garment will also determine the fit, so check your proportions against the pattern’s chart. If you are between sizes, opt for the smaller one if you’re small-boned or would like a close fit, and the larger one if you prefer a loose fit. Find out how to take accurate measurements, increase the size of a dart, and view size charts at simplicitynewlook.com.

We’ve added key techniques from our dressmakers to help you create the perfect garments makeittoday.co.uk

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YOUR FREE

PATTERNS

Simple Seasonal Style

The promise of sunnier days is on the horizon; it’s finally time to start paring back the layers and digging out the lightweight fabrics for floating frocks and pretty playsuit ensembles. Get in the mood for spring with Simplicity 1355, an easy-to-sew pattern with four options to perfectly suit your body shape. Choose from a flowing maxi with a dramatic slit, or statement jumpsuits with two neckline variations: plunging v-neck or sultry scoop. New Look 6022, meanwhile, offers four chic dress options, each with a delicately pleated front. Shimmy in a dropped hem with sweet capped sleeves, and cinch in your waist with a sophisticated sash. Don’t forget to finish your outfit with a drawstring bag, just big enough to stash all of your essentials.

NEXT MONTH’S FREE GIFTS...

GET YOURS ON 12TH APRIL 2018

Pompom Special 45 PROJECTS AND EXCLUSIVE GIFT

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Pom-pom kit worth £10!

MAKE IT TODAY ISSUE 32_MAKE IT TODAY 22/02/2018 11:12 Page 7

GOOD FOR THE SOUL

© DAVID BUTLER

Jubilant and jewel-soaked, this ethnic-inspired fabric collection from Amy Butler sparkles with vivid hues redolent of Indian travels. Soul Blossoms delights the senses with a passionate palette of dreamy rayon, voile and corduroy prints, from Disco Flower Tangerine to Peacock Feathers Blush, and all with Amy’s trademark treasure box of swirls and clusters. Blooming marvellous! amybutlerdesign.com

Dungarees Company

Fellow devotees of the chic dungaree will adore the latest pattern from Tilly and the Buttons – a playful homage to an enduring fashion faithful.

Mila gives a satisfying fit at the hips, with cute side-button openings and ever-ready pockets, for a relaxed yet confident fit in medium-weight stretch denim or needlecord. £12.50, shop.tillyandthebuttons.com

Make it, buy it, love it

Toucans and llamas and pandas, oh my!

CLEVER THREADS Looking to bring a flash of personalised perfection to your dressmaking project? Embroidery specialist Jessica Pile’s fascinating exploration of couture techniques, covering everything from monogramming to tambour beading, is a lustrous medley of achievable embellishments designed to help you raise your stitching game. Truly catwalk clever!

Fashion Embroidery, £25, pavilionbooks.com

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C H A R L OT T E SUBLIME

Flamingo Road

Calling all animal lovers! You’ll want to flock to the astonishing silk shading and crewelwork on display in the new exhibition by the Royal School of Needlework. Blending the familiar and fantastical, Animals in Embroidery at Hampton Court Palace brings all manner of bird and beast to life in a mind-blowing menagerie of exquisite hand stitches.

From 18th April, royal-needlework.org.uk

Settle in with an instant faux-wrap figure winner, as Lisa Comfort’s latest pattern blends a lapel collar, wide waistband, roomy pockets and also kimono sleeves for a graceful throwback with an oriental twist. Sew Over It’s Charlotte Dress promises to make it even easier to reinvent the hourglass for truly elegant fashion fusion in sizes 8-20. £7.50, sewoverit.co.uk

Pick up a Pineapple

Why not try?

Animal JERSE

Y

CREATURE COMFORTS FROM LUXURY MASTERS STOFF & STIL

LIGHT POWDER WITH LLAMAS

G DUSTY BLUE TOUCAN

If spring has got you yearning for sultry far-flung climes, you’ll adore these tropical treats from Trimits. Perfect for holding fabric and tissue in place as you work on your next masterpiece, these patchwork-pretty pineapple weights are sure to brighten up your work space. We just love the tufty felt leaves! £12.99 for two, groves@stockistenquiries.co.uk NATURE WITH PANDAS

E D ITO R ’S C H O IC E N AT U R E ’ S WAY

We dressmaking gals are all about keeping it real, so Fashioned From Nature is a genuine delight, placing our clothing in the context of mother earth. Tracing 400 years of textile innovation, using materials as diverse as fruit fibre to recycled bottles, it promotes responsible attitudes to clothing whilst celebrating styles with a natural high. From 21st April, £12, vam.ac.uk

Soft and sublime, these fresh jersey prints promise endless springtime snuggles from Stoff & Stil. Presenting a joyous showcase of stretch and organic knits, this inspired collection means you can easily put together comfy pieces festooned in your favourite wildlife. These delightful animal crackers include the Pop Art pastel prettiness of Dusty Blue Toucan, the cheeky creamy subtlety of Nature with Pandas, and the candy-kissed quirky charms of Light Powder with Llamas.

Exotic mischief with the gentle touch!

From £12.25 per metre, stoffstil.co.uk

A N D F I N A L LY…

Doing her bit for children who struggle with shop-bought clothes, designer Ruth Maddock has created a pattern range to help those who are sensitive to fabric tightness and scratchiness. Along with the patterns, which aim to boost well-being in young wearers, she has set up a range of fabric designs with uplifting motifs such as vintage maps and dandelion clocks. ruthmaddockmakes.com

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MAKE IT TODAY ISSUE 32_MAKE IT TODAY 22/02/2018 11:12 Page 10

With the NEW EPIC™ 980Q every detail big and small has been thought through. With patented design and exclusive market leading features, you’ll see there are no limits to your sewing.

Features include:

JoyOS ADVISOR™ Automatic needle threader Exclusive stitch techniques Large illuminated work area Market’s largest display with capacitive touch

husqvarnavikinguk

husqvarnavikinguk

www.husqvarnaviking.com

Forever Tools 1

We can guarantee these haberdashery items will last you a lifetime

3

S

o much time and dedication is put into creating beautiful garments, it’s only right that we indulge ourselves with some keepsake sewing tools to lend a helping hand.

It’s always worth spending a little extra on top-quality products that will withstand years of dressmaking, and there’s nothing worse than a notion breaking just as you’re nearing the end of a project. That’s why we’ve rounded up a selection of haberdashery essentials you’ll always have faith in.

2 5 4 6

7 8

1 Liberty Mamie Multi pear pin cushion, £11.39, woolwarehouse.co.uk 2 Tailor’s awl, £3.50, merchantandmills.com 3 Fiskars rotary cutter geometric 45mm, £14.99, crafterscompanion.co.uk 4 Liberty print laundry buttons, £5.50 for 10, clothkits.co.uk 5 Clover bias tape maker, £9.99, clover@stockistenquiries.co.uk 6 Prym needle fairy hand-sewing needle threader, £4.40, guthrie-ghani.co.uk 7 Prym easy grasp pins, £5, guthrie-ghani.co.uk 8 The Golden Rule tailors and designers curves by Lutterloh System, £39.99, createandcraft.com 9 Red extra sharp scissors 10in, £53, merchantandmills.com

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MAKE IT TODAY ISSUE 32_MAKE IT TODAY 22/02/2018 11:14 Page 12

YO U R SEW WITH THE FLOW

Easy Jumpsuit

FREE

Pattern

Together forever all-in-ones to wear this weekend

As spring heralds the promise of sunshine breaks, you’ll want to be able to pack light without compromising on fashion points, and this relaxed all-in-one pattern gives you the chance to celebrate a statement style that speaks to all body shapes. Playful, sophisticated and versatile, Simplicity 1355 taps into the iconic drape of Diane von Fürstenberg and the practical chic of Stella McCartney, with the option of a full-length jumpsuit and a halter-neck romper, as well as a relaxed maxi with front seam split. Create a flattering cinched silhouette with a choice of neckline details, plus pockets, elastic casings and tie fastenings in challis, soft linen, interlock or sateen – perfect for dynamic event wear as well as a fetching travel set. For sensational seasonal walkabouts? Let’s jump to it!

Jayne Cordle

YOUR FREE PATTERN WITH FOUR FAB PIECES

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YO U R

FREE

Pattern

Tape That Accentuate your silhouette with option D’s halter style and cinched waist

OPTION D

For the top binding, pin the tape to the armhole edge, right sides together, 1cm from the raw edge. Sew, trim and clip the curves. Press the tape out and under-stitch, then turn to the inside and press. Tack close to the inner edge, then topstitch the outside. Tuck the upper edge of the bodice to the inside and press under 6mm on the raw edge, then sew close to the inner edge.

Stitch the notched ends of the neck tie using a 1cm seam, then fold the tie in half lengthwise, right sides together. Sew in a 1cm seam, leaving an opening, then trim.

Turn out and press, then slip-stitch the opening edges.

1355

FA B R I C

Pocket Wisdom Apply pockets to the side edges of the front and back as follows. With right sides together, pin the pocket piece to the trousers or shorts, checking raw edges are even and using a 1cm seam.

Press the seam towards the pocket, then pin the front to the back at the sides. Sew the side seams, leaving an opening between the large dots. Stitch the pocket edges from the side seam to the upper edge. Clip the back allowance at the lower end of the pocket. Press the seam open below the clip, then press the pocket towards the front and tack 6mm from the upper edge.

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September Sunrise Cotton Lawn

Simplicity 1355’s cropped option D, with its relaxed draping and gathering, is ideally suited to subtle, whimsical florals. This crisp cotton lawn partners delicate turquoise foliage and intricate monochromatic petals with a universally flattering mustard yellow for a fresh seasonal hit. £14.50 per metre, guthrie-ghani.co.uk

YO U R

FREE

Pattern

Shoulder On For neat shoulder straps, first apply interfacing to the wrong side of the fabric. Fold each strap in half lengthwise, right sides together, matching the small dots. Use a 1cm seam allowance, leaving the ends open. Turn the shoulder straps out and press.

On the outside, pin the straps to the front pattern piece, matching the small and large dots, then tack. After applying interfacing to the wrong sides of the front and back facing sections, edge-finish the lower un-notched edge, sewing 6mm from the edge. Clip at the inner corners, then turn under along the stitching, or use zigzag stitches or overlocking over the edge.

OPTION A 1355

Better Belting This pattern includes instructions for making a belt with options A and B. First, stitch the notched ends of the tie belt sections using a 1cm seam allowance. Fold the belt in half lengthwise, right sides together. Sew in a 1cm seam, leaving an opening to turn, then trim the seam and corners. Turn the belt out, then press.

Slip-stitch the opening edges together. Make the thread carriers at the side seams, starting at the waistline and extending 2.8cm above the waistline.

why NOT try?

Choose option A for a shapely leg extension and enhance with a tie fastening

Springtime Daisies and Butterflies

As an alternative to crisp batik cotton, select a crĂŞpe de chine, sateen, lycra blend or interlock jersey for a flattering drape.

Choose chunky blooms with Floral Print Stretch, the silky petal rainbow of Italian Geometric Slinky, or the punchy fruit salad combo like Retro Butterfly Stretch. From ÂŁ6.99 per metre, minervacrafts.com

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Date: December 11, 2014

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6378

***with or without nap *without nap **with nap

CINQ TAILLES JEUNE FEMME: PATRON CINCO TALLAS SEÑORITAS: PATRÓN IN ONE TG/XG G MISSES’ FIVE SIZES M P XL TP/XP L 6 PIECES/PIEZAS 22-24 M 18-20 S 14-16 XS 10-12 22-24 Métrages et instructionsà 6-8 18-20 50-52 Tailles / Tallas 14-16 46-48 10-12 42-44 de couture en Français 6-8 38-40 48-50 44-46 48-50 Françaises 34-36 40-42 de l’enveloppe. Sizes 44-46 l’intérieur 36-38 40-42 In Taille 36-38 6 PIECES/PIEZAS 44-46 European Size 32-34 40-42 Europeas 32-34 36-38 102-107 112-117 cm 92-97 " Tallas Busto 78-80 30˘-31˘ 32˘-34 83-87 37-39 " Bust 32-34 / 94-99 28-30 81-89 25-26˘ 71-76 " Poitrine 23-24 64-67 Métrages et 46-48 58-61 Waist 42-44 Taille / Cintura 38-40 32˘-33˘ 34˘-36 instructions Hips Hanches / Caderas 107-112 117-122 " 97-102 88-92 de couture 17ˆ-17˘ " 83-85 Back-neck to waist 16˘-16¾ 17-17¼ 15˘-15¾ 16-16¼ (escote a cintura) en Français cm 44-44.5 Dos (encolure à Taille) / Espalda 43-44 40.5-41.5 42-42.5 à l’intérieur Yd 39.5-40 3 A m 3 2.80 3 2.70 2¯ de l’enveloppe.

2.70 " 2¯ 2.70 3 " 45"** 2.60 3 2.70 2˜ 2.70 A 115cm** 2˜ 2.40 2ˆ 2.40 2.10 60"** 150cm** m 3.00 2.80 2.70 Yd 2.60 3¼ " B 2.50 3ı 2.70 3 2.40 2¾ 2.30 " B 115cm** 2¾ 2.00 2¯ 1.70 45"** 2˜ 150cm** m 2˘ B 2.50 2ı 2.50 1¯ 2.40 A 60"** 2.30 " 2.10 2.10 2.10 1.90 Yd C 115cm** 1.30 2¾ 1.30 C 2¾ 150cm** m 2˜ 1.80 2˘ 1.80 " 2¼ 1.70 2ˆ 45"** 1.70 2¼ " 1.40 2 1.50 1.30 1˘ D 115cm** 0.90 1ˆ 0.90 60"** 0.90 150cm** Yd 2 D 2 1¯ légères, Crêpe de 1¯ " TISSUS SUGGÉRÉS 1˜ 1˜ Mousseline, Linon, Cotonnades 45"** 1ˆ 1 Prévoyez davantage Batiks, Étamine, Charmeuse, 1 1 Toile de Lin, Tissus Soyeux, Voile.

60"** Chine, Crêpe Georgette Double, TS ou les rayures.

GARMENT MEASUREMEN pour raccorder les écossais C of neck: In de tissu 49˘ 49 Finished back length from base48 Un paquet de 48˘ " MERCERIE simple 1.3cm de large. C: 47˘ 46˘ A 46 deux paquets de ruban de biais biais simple de 45˘ 45 " Fil, A,B: 44˘ D: Un paquet de ruban de 33˘ B 33 biais simple 1.3cm de large.

32˘ 32 " ruban de 31˘ de 16.5cm de large.

20 C 19˘ 19 1.3cm de large, 1.70m de frange 18˘ 18 D Algodones ligeras, Crepé de TELAS SUGERIDAS Muselina, Linón, Mezclas de Cotton Types, Crepe D SUGGESTED FABRICS Velo. Se necesita tela Chiffon, Cotton Lawn, Lightweight Voile. Allow extra Batik, Chali, Charmeuse, Tela de Lino, Telas Sedosas, Batiks, Challis, Charmeuse, Types, Chine, Crepé Georgette Doble, Lightweight Linen Types, Silky rayas.

De Chine, Double Georgette, extra para casar cuadros o stripes. fabric for matching plaids or MERCERÍA de ancho. C: Un paquete cinta de bies sencillo de 1.3cm REQUIREMENTS cinta de bies sencillo Hilo, A,B: dos paquetes de ˘" wide single fold bias tape. de ancho. D: Un paquete de Thread. A,B: Two pkgs. of de cinta de bies sencillo de 1.3cm de 16.5cm de ancho. fold bias tape. flecos C: One pkg. of ˘" wide single wide fringe. de 1.3cm de ancho, 1.70m de fold bias tape, 1¯yd. of 6˘" o sin pelusa D: One pkg. of ˘" wide single *sin pelusa **con pelusa ***con sans sens

U.S. XS-XL FR. TP-TG EUR0.

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SIZE / TAILLE / TALLA

6378 A

A

B

B

D

Complete Your Collection info@simplicity.com

Mark the front and back of the garment before assembling the pieces. For the bodice back opening edges, snip the seam allowance on the fold line for the casing to help the fabric fold along the casing line.

Both trousers and shorts may need to be clipped carefully at regular intervals along the curved area.

This can be reinforced with any leftover bias tape used for the armhole edges.

The waist casing is snug; stick to the measurements.

You may also prefer to use a narrower elastic. It’s also a good idea to try the suit on before cutting the elastic to the required length.

Shape Smart

Whatever your natural body line, Simplicity 1355 fits to flatter. Option A’s subtle V-neck helps to de-emphasise a larger bust, whilst gently elongating petite frames.

Meanwhile, the flared trouser leg and chunky strap helps to balance proportion with hourglass frames, and the fabric tie-belt and elasticated band creates the illusion of a slimmer waistline in apple shapes. With their naturally draping bodice shapes, both A and D create gentle curving on straight frames. Smaller busts can also benefit from the neckline ruching and tie detail of romper option D. This cropped playsuit style with its halterneck effect also helps pear shapes to balance out the hip area by accentuating the collarbone and drawing the eye up towards the shoulders.

PATTERNS © 2015 SIMPLICITY PATTERN NEW YORK, NY 10016, USA. SIMPLICITYCORONATION STREET, STOCKPORT,

•

6378 BIN / PANIER / ESTANTE

C

12/23/14 1:17 PM

Get New Look 6378 and New Look 6346 for just £3.50 (RRP £6.95), plus 85p P&P, from simplicitynewlook.com and quote codes MIT6378 and MIT6346 respectively. Offer valid 8th March to 11th April 2018 inclusive.

50% OFF!

S P EC I A L D E A L

GET THE LOOK! CROPPED PLAYSUIT: BAG £16.99, TKMAXX.COM. SHOES £45, MISSSELFRIDGE.COM. BRACELETS £6 EACH, ACCESSORIZE.COM pinterest.com/simplicitypins

92 ALL RIGHTS RESERVED.

@tweetsimplicity PRIVÉ USO PRIVADO ING PURPOSES. / TAOUUSAGE DE PRODUCTION EN SÉRIE.O/ PARA DE PRODUCCIÓN EN SERIE. À DES FINS COMMERCIALES SEULEMENT ET NON CO. INC. CON PROPÓSITOS DE COMERCIALIZACIÓN SIMPLICITY PATTERN SOLAMENTE, NO SE PUEDE UTILIZAR CO. MFD FOR / FAB POUR / FAB PARA PTY. LTD. 25 VIOLET STREET,

261 MADISON AVENUE, LTD., P.O. BOX 367, MARCA REGISTRADA. 2212, AUSTRALIA. SIMPLICITY REVESBY, NSW• PRINTED UNE MARQUE DÉPOSÉE. / ES UNA / IMPRESO EN USA. IN / IMPRIMÉ/ TOUS A REGISTERED TRADEMARK. / EST SK5 7WZ, UK. / TODOS DERECHOS DROITS RÉSERVÉS. NEW LOOK IS RESERVADOS.

NEW LOOK 6378 Featuring four striking options with a variety of sleeves and hemlines along with fringing, this relaxed kimono pattern is the perfect extra for your jumpsuit, cutoffs or a shift.

NEW LOOK 6346 Choose from three hem lengths for a chic and practical everyday skirt with a flattering A-line flare and the option of a button-front closure or back zip – the ideal accompaniment to your weekend wardrobe. facebook.com/simplicitypatterns

YO U R

FREE

Pattern

J AY N E ’ S TO P T I P S

MAKE IT TODAY ISSUE 32_MAKE IT TODAY 22/02/2018 11:33 Page 17

Sh owc ase

Runway Ready Heather Jacks, brand ambassador for Simplicity, on a fashion-forward frock

If it’s a flirty dress which oozes style that you’re after, then you’ll love the Simplicity 8048 pattern, inspired by hit TV show Project Runway.

With sleeve, neckline and hem variations, it provides you with total control over the finished look you wish to create.

Play around with different fabrics such as a soft satin, or perhaps overlay your dress with a contrast georgette, lace or eyelet.

With a choice of four designs, the option of princess seams, various sleeve lengths, bodice lining and a straight or asymmetric skirt, this is a great pattern to develop your dressmaking skills and master new techniques. £8.95, visit simplicitynewlook.com for size details.

GET IT RIGHT: All in the Details Take note of the dart down the front – if using patterned fabric, check that it won’t look distorted once the dart has been sewn.

When using fabrics such as velvet or a loose weave tweed, use an overlocker or zigzag finish around the edges to stop fraying.

To ensure elegance, aim for accuracy of dart stitching and pressing. Pay attention to symmetry and topstitching.

For petite sizes, when shortening a zip, use strong thread to make overcast stitches across the zipper teeth just above where you trim.

patterns are available from all good sewing shops and websites.

Visit simplicitynewlook.com or call 0161 480 8734 for stockist information.

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Fabric focus

Lady McElroy Poly Georgette Yellow Floral On Pink, £14.49 per metre, doughtysonline.co.uk

Puff Daisy Gingham Blue, £6.50 per metre, empressmills.co.uk

John Kaldor Floral Slinky Satin, £17.99 per metre, minervacrafts.com

Satin Finish Finishing seams is an important step when working with satin, as it is prone to fraying. Be aware that satin and seam rippers do not go together and are likely to cause holes, so if you are nervous about making a mistake it’s best to create a muslin version first.

Underlining the garment will reduce strain on the seams and give a smoother appearance when worn.

QUICK FASHION STAPLES FOR EVERY SHAPE

Four Season Skirts

Your free PAT T E R N PULL-OUT!

Keeping yourself kitted out in the perfect skirt all-year round just got a lot easier! Whatever the weather, whatever your taste, you’ll find a classic fit here that works with every figure and, better still, these flattering everyday styles include easy fit techniques for every level of ability, as well as a range of simple and stylish fastenings. So grab your free pattern pack and get stitching – it’s going to be a beautiful year...

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19

1

Using the pull-out pack, cut out the pattern pieces. Stitch the darts into the back skirt and press towards the centre back.

Position the pocket linings along the slanted edges at the top of the front skirt pieces, right sides together.

2

Match the notches, then pin and stitch across. Turn the pocket linings to the wrong side of the skirt, tease out the seam and press flat. On the right side of the skirt, edgestitch and sew another row of stitching, 1cm from the first.

side. Press flat, ensuring the original pressed edges are laying exactly in line with each other. Slot the open side of the waistband over the waistline of the skirt, pin in place, then edge-stitch through all the layers, continuing across the two ends and along the top of the waistband.

6

Fold and press the neatened hem of the skirt in line with the base of the front opening.

Edge-stitch, then make another row of stitching, 1cm above the first. Make a buttonhole in the right-hand Position the pocket back side of the waistband, then pieces behind the pocket add five more, evenly placed linings, matching the curves of down the opening. Stitch the the pocket bags and making buttons to the corresponding sure the sides run smoothly places on the left-hand side of from below the edge of the the opening. pocket. Pin and stitch from the top waistline around the Cut four 2cm x 8cm pocket bag to the side seams, strips of contrasting neaten the edges, then press fabric and neaten one side the pockets flat. From the on each. Fold and press in wrong side, stitch another the raw part of each strip, row, 1cm away from the first. then fold the neatened edge Neaten the back and front over the top of them. Edgeside seams. Match the stitch to secure the folds. Fold front and back skirt pieces and press in each end of the together, pin and stitch, then belt loop and position one press the seam allowances edge in line with the top of the open. Neaten around the waistband and the other to hem of the skirt. the places indicated on the pattern pieces, two on the Fold and press 1cm along front and two on the back. one of the straight edges Edge-stitch to finish, backtacking at the top and bottom of the front opening facings, to secure the loops in place. then match and pin the remaining long edge along each of the front opening edges of the skirt. Pin and stitch down the length of the skirt across the width of the facing. Trim away the bulk from the corners at the base of the skirt, then turn the facing to the wrong side. Tease out the seams and press flat.

Edge-stitch the folded edges of the facing to the skirt.

3

7

Button-up Skirt ESSENTIAL KIT Fabric, 1.1m Contrast fabric, 50cm Fusible interfacing Coordinating thread Buttons, six Sizes: 8-20

CUTTING GUIDE FRONT SKIRT: Cut one pair BACK SKIRT: Cut one on fold POCKET BACK: Cut one pair in contrasting fabric POCKET LINING: Cut one pair in contrasting fabric WAISTBAND: Cut an 11cm x 90cm, then adjust to your size FRONT OPENING FACING: Cut two 6.5cm x 61cm strips in contrast fabric 1.5cm seam allowance used throughout.

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4

Exposed Zip Midi

5

Fuse the interfacing to the waistband. Fold and press in the 1.5cm seam allowance on both long edges of the waistband. Fold the band in half lengthways, with the right sides of the fabric inside, then stitch across each end. Trim the bulk from the corners and turn the waistband to the right

ESSENTIAL KIT Upholstery fabric, 80cm (140cm wide) Note: if using 115cm wide fabric, you need 1.3m Lightweight fusible interfacing, 20cm Metal zip with ring pull, 18cm Sizes: 6-18 Finished length: approx. 49cm

Darts & Zip

Fiona Hesford’s top tips for STITCHING & FINISHING � You will need a zipper foot attachment for your machine and one 18cm metal zip with a ring pull: we got ours from from Armory Auctions on eBay.

1

Fold the fabric (skirt back) to match up the marks at the top of the darts, then sew to the point (make two darts).

Press to the centre. Stay-stitch the top edge of all the main skirt pieces (see tips, left).

2

Finish all raw edges before you start. Sew the front pieces together at the centre-front seam up to the zip marker point (transferred).

Reinforce the seam at the zip end, then press open.

3

Press over an extra 4mm on the seam allowance at the zip section to accommodate the exposed teeth. Pin the zip on the wrong side of the front pieces so it’s neat on the right side.

� Finish the raw edges with a zigzag stitch or using an overlocker. � Stay-stitching is a line of straight stitching worked 1cm from the edge, which revents stretching at the curved edges. � Under-stitching is when you sew a line of stitching close (roughly 3mm) from the seam on the right side to secure the seam allowance, preventing it from rolling to the front. � When hand-stitching the overhanging parts of the facings, make sure that the zip is still able to open.

4

The teeth and ring should both be exposed on the right side. Tack, then attach a zipper foot to your machine.

5

6

8

9

Sew around the zip as closely to the edge as possible. Press, then remove the tacking stitches.

With right sides together, sew the skirt front to the back at the sides. Once joined, press the seam open.

� You can hem the skirt as you please, but using seam binding will reduce bulk and help maintain the maximum length.

Facings

7

Sew each back waist facing piece to one short edge of the front waist facing piece. Press the seams open, then finish the outer raw edge all around.

Pin the facings to the skirt at the top raw edge, leaving a 1.5cm overhang at each end.

Tack, then stitch. Press the facing up, with the seam allowance pressed up to the facing.

Under-stitch on the facing side (see tips, left), then press the facing to the reverse of the skirt. Tuck the overhang under at the far ends, then hand-stitch in place.

Hemming

Make a 2cm hem as required at the lower edge or use seam binding to hem your skirt as shown below.

CUTTING GUIDE FRONT: Cut two BACK: Cut one on fold FRONT WAIST FACING: Cut two BACK WAIST FACING: Cut one on the fold Note: iron interfacing to the reverse of both waist facing pieces 1.5cm seam allowance used throughout.

To attach seam binding to the edge of the fabric, unfold one binding edge and pin it to the right side of the fabric at the raw edge. Sew with a 1cm seam allowance. Press the binding and seam allowance

upwards on the reverse. Fold the binding over to the reverse to encase the raw edges. Pin, then stitch in the ditch on the right side, making sure the binding is secured on the reverse. Press.

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Heritage Pencil

1

6

2

7

Use the pattern pull-out to cut out all the pieces as indicated in the cutting guide.

Use an overlocker or zigzag stitch along the selvedge edges of the boucle to neaten and prevent fraying.

ESSENTIAL KIT Boucle fabric, 1m Lining fabric, 1m Petersham ribbon, 1m Concealed zip, 23cm Coordinating thread Sizes: 8-20

CUTTING GUIDE FRONT: cut one on fold each in fabric and lining BACK: cut one pair each in fabric and lining 1.5cm seam allowance used, unless otherwise stated.

Stitch the darts at the top of the boucle front, then press towards the centre.

Repeat for the two back pieces, then lay them right sides together and stitch the centre seam, beginning at the base of the zip notch and ending at the top of the kick split. Reinforce with a few extra stitches.

3

Fold and press the seam allowance at the openings for the zip and back slit. Open it out again at the zip opening, then lay the open zip, matching the teeth with the seam allowance crease. Pin in place.

4

Change to a zipper foot on your machine and secure in place, stitching as close to the teeth as possible.

Reinforce with a few extra stitches, then repeat with the other side of the zip. Thread the zip pull through to the right side and close.

Place the lining, right sides facing inwards, inside the right-side-out boucle, matching the side seams and raw waist edges.

Stitch around the waist edge to secure the lining and skirt together.

Fold and press a 1.5cm seam allowance at the top of the waistband. Tuck the end of your Petersham over the top edge of the zip and back on itself, then pin it along the top edge of the skirt, matching the lower edge to the crease of the seam allowance. Stitch in place, then fold and press inside the skirt. Hand-stitch the Petersham to the lining at the zip opening, side seams and darts.

8

Create a 1cm hem on the right-hand side of the kick split, then turn and press a 3cm hem at the skirt base.

Fold the left side of the kick split in by 5cm so it is in line with the centre back seam and press.

9

Tuck the lining into the folded seam, then secure at the top of the kick split, beginning at the centre back seam and making a 4cm Lay the skirt front and diagonal line of stitches back right sides together, through all layers of the then sew both side seams and boucle and lining. Handpress open. Sew together the stitch the pressed hem lining fabric pieces as for from the corner of the back the boucle, then fold and slit, with a hemming stitch, stitch the seam allowance at finishing on the opposite the openings for the zip and side of the slit and up the back slit. Create a 1cm double 1cm pressed line. hem at the base of the lining.

5

CORE SKILL: Petersham ribbon

SEE P51 FOR THE JACKET PROJECT 22

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This stiff, ribbed ribbon has a scalloped edge so that it can curve slightly and is commonly used to reinforce waistbands. It is straightforward to sew into your garment: simply line up with the waist on the wrong side and stitch across.

Embroidered A-line ESSENTIAL KIT Chambray fabric, 1.5m Elastic, 1m (2.5cm wide) Seam binding, 3m (2.5cm wide) Fusible interfacing, 20cm x 40cm Stranded embroidery thread, various colours Embroidery hoop Crewel needle Sizes Waist (cm) Hips (cm) S (8-10) 65-69 90-94 M (12-14) 74-79 99-104 L (16-18) 84-89 109-114

Waistband

1

2

Sew the waistband together at the short sides, leaving a 1.5cm opening at one side for feeding elastic.

Press the seam open.

Fold and press the waistband in half, with the wrong sides together.

4

5

6

8

9

11

12

With right sides together, sew the skirt front to the skirt back at the sides. Finish the raw edges, then press.

3

CUTTING GUIDE FRONT AND BACK: Cut two on fold WAISTBAND: Cut two POCKET: Cut two Note: if adding flower details, embroider the fabric before cutting the pocket pieces 1cm seam allowance used throughout.

Pin the raw edge of the waistband to the skirt at the top edge, aligning the side seams with the opening at the underside. Tack in place.

Sew a 1cm seam around.

Finish the raw edges.

Attach a safety pin to the elastic end and insert through the opening. Feed it around and out through the same opening.

Pin the elastic ends together. Try the skirt on, adjust to fit, then stitch the elastic ends together with a 1cm overlap. Hand-stitch the opening closed.

Hemming Pocket Embroidery

1

Transfer the motif from the pull-out onto the fabric, then place it in an embroidery hoop.

Use the picture as a colour guide to embroider the flowers and leaves.

Thread a crewel needle with three strands of embroidery thread and fill each flower petal using satin stitch, working the stitches across the width of the petal.

When each petal is complete, embroider the stems in stem stitch and leaves in satin stitch. Using two strands of pale pink, add some straight stitches radiating out from each larger flower centre.

Using two strands of yellow, embroider a French knot in the centre of each flower (using green thread for the pink flowers) and a few single French knots around the edges.

Remove the fabric from the hoop, place wrong side up on a folded towel, press lightly with a steam iron, then cut out the pocket shape using the pull-out pattern.

2

3

7

Attach seam binding to Press the binding the skirt hem. Pin one upwards, and the seam unfolded edge to the right side allowance upwards on the of the fabric at the raw edge. reverse. Fold the binding over Sew a 1cm seam allowance. to the reverse side to encase the raw edges.

Pin the folded binding, then ‘stitch in the ditch’ on the right side of the skirt, making sure that the binding is secured on the reverse side. Press.

Pockets

4

10

Repeat the above process to attach seam binding to the top edge of each pocket piece.

Finish the three raw edges of each pocket.

Fold over and press 1cm.

Pin each pocket to the skirt front and tack.

Topstitch all around the three edges, 3mm from the edge. Remove the tacking, then press.

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MAKE IT TODAY ISSUE 32_MAKE IT TODAY 22/02/2018 15:37 Page 24

• • • •

Sewing Machine Sales Servicing • Repairs Haberdashery Supplies Clothing Repairs and Alterations

Bernina

Elna

Get in touch today!

Janome

Toyota

www.reads-of-winchester.co.uk 01962 850 950

YO U R

FREE

Pattern

REINVENT THE

Classic Shift

How do you refresh this timeless frock? Let us count the ways!

Effortlessly blending comfort with style, New Look 6022 offers four loose-fitting garments that can be donned as daywear, or powered up to first-rate glam with a few basic accessories. Choose from three different sleeve options with playful pleat details, a tied sash for figure-hugging finery, plus a chic dropped hem to give the illusion of elongated pins. Catwalk, anyone? If you’ve got a metre to spare, finish off your look with a drawstring pouch in a complementary hue; it’ll hark back to vintage vibes and – more importantly – offer plenty of room to stash your essentials.

Sarah Oecken

YOUR FREE PATTERN WITH FIVE UNIQUE DESIGNS

Continues overleaf makeittoday.co.uk

25

YO U R

FREE

Pattern

FA B R I C OPTION A 6022

Sixties trinity Audrey, Twiggy and Jackie O may have popularised this go-to garb, but the straight up-and-down shift isn’t just for slim, boyish figures – its body-skimming shape befits all shapes and sizes. New Look 6022 offers plenty of scope for tailoring this classic to your physique: the sleeveless style of variation C and D will balance out an inverted triangle frame, while horizontal capped sleeves exaggerate the enviable hourglass by drawing emphasis up to the bust line.

Highlight your waist with a loose tied sash and you’re good to go!

Why not complete your outfit with a practical drawstring bag?

Choose a contrasting cord for added impact

Bias Binding Basics The bias-cut neck facing on this pattern is quite fabric thirsty.

You could consider a shop-bought bias, or piece together strips from your offcuts, rather than cutting into a separate length of fabric. Cut at a 90° angle, then stitch together on the diagonal to maintain the bias until you reach the desired length. When marking these strips, use a pencil – chalk can be messy. It’s also a good idea to use a clear ruler so you can measure each new length using the previous pencil line as a guide.

26 13

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Liberty Capel Turquoise

A true Liberty classic, Capel is a Tana Lawn fabric with a refreshing pastel twist.

Combining cooling aqua with a muted white print, this material is light and silky to wear with a beautiful drape – perfect for warmer days. £15 per metre, sewbox.co.uk

GET THE LOOK! Bolero, £15, Bracelet from a selection at Ben de Lisi, Shoes from Faith, £29, debenhams.com. Bag £39.99, tkmaxx.com

Shape Smart

YO U R

FREE

Pattern

OPTION B 6022

SA R A H ’ S S L E E V E TRICKS Mark up the subtle pleats on the cap sleeve using carbon paper and a tracing wheel; you can then copy the pattern markings directly onto the fabric.

Take your time to make the pleats perfect as they can be tricky for beginner dressmakers to master. It may be helpful to mock up a toile and practise both sleeves before getting started.

Once you’re ready to sew the final garment, tack your sleeves in place to check you’re happy with placement. Keep your stitches just within the seam allowance, so you don’t sew over them.

The inverted pleats across the front of the dress depend on careful marking and tacking

Loop the Loop Finish off your dress with a small buttonhole loop. Cut a piece of bias strip, fold the edges in half, then again, and stitch down. This can then be inserted into the neck bias recess and secured into place – just remember to check that the loop fits comfortably over your chosen button before you fix it into position.

“The hem on this dress is a simple double-turn of the fabric. You can use a heatproof ruler and iron to assist you with this. If you’re confident, take it straight to the machine without pins” SARAH OECKEN, DESIGNER

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27

Sh owc ase

Pencil Pretty

Heather Jacks, brand ambassador for Simplicity, on simple elegance When women talk about fundamental fashion, the streamlined pencil is usually ranked as one of those timeless essentials, and with good reason – it’s versatile, it’s neat, and it’s universally flattering.

With New Look’s 6217 pattern, you’ll find out just how easy this ubiquitous skirt is to make. With its simple lapped zip, twill tape waistband and tidy hem slit, option C is a study in casual elegance and an instant classic. Being quick to sew, it’s a perfect go-to for work and leisure, whether you opt for supple crêpe de chine, sand-washed silk or formal brocade, and it also gives you a chance to master your topstitch skills and tackle French seams. The pattern even comes with options for a kimono style jacket, extended-sleeve tee and side-zip trousers. For a look that is sure to endure, wardrobe staples simply don’t come easier than this! £6.95, visit simplicitynewlook.com for size details.

GET IT RIGHT: Clean and comfy lines Always pay attention to laying your fabric out as straight as possible, preferably on a non-slip surface.

Make sure you use new pins frequently, as they can wear out pretty quickly if you do a lot of sewing.

If you are working with more silky fabric, you might find it helps to try a steam iron down the grain before you start.

Aim to finish the hemline slit first, before you turn up the hem.

patterns are available from all good sewing shops and websites.

Visit simplicitynewlook.com or call 0161 480 8734 for stockist information.

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Fabric focus

Cheetah Jacquard Gold, £11.99 per metre, minervacrafts.com

Crepe Mountainscape Citrus, £14 per metre, sewoverit.co.uk

Silk Poppy Crêpe de Chine, £16.50 per metre, stonefabrics.co.uk

French Fancy Widely acknowledged as one of the most effective techniques for finishing less-stable sheer and silk fabric, the French seam is stitched twice: once on the right side of the fabric and then again on the reverse, enclosing the first seam. To make it, simply stitch 5mm from the edge, wrong sides together. Trim the seam slightly, then press open.

Fold right sides together and machine-sew the join using a 1cm seam allowance. Press flat on the right side to finish.

MAKE IT TODAY ISSUE 32_MAKE IT TODAY 22/02/2018 15:37 Page 29

Beginnproejrect

STEAL THE SHOW IN A

Waist-Tie Top Flaunt your figure in this chic design

This loose-fitting pattern works well in virtually any fabric, but when stitched in the elegant triple crepe used by Amanda Walker, it makes for a great party piece. It is simply cut, so it’s perfect for beginners and any stitcher looking for a quick-sew project. You could also easily lengthen it to create a shift dress, tapering the skirt slightly to suit your body shape.

ESSENTIAL KIT Fabric, 1.5m

CUTTING GUIDE FRONT: Cut two (quarter of hip plus 24cm) x 72cm rectangles BACK: Cut two (quarter of hip plus 24cm) x 72cm rectangles NECKBAND: Cut one 5cm x 74cm strip on the bias CUFF: Cut two 10cm x 45cm strips BELT: Cut one 14cm x 152cm strip BELT LOOPS: Cut two 3cm x 10cm strips 1.5cm seam allowance used unless otherwise stated.

Y THE ONL E C N DIFFERE THE N E E BETW AND FRONT CES IE BACK P HE N LIES I T E NECKLIN

30

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Amanda Walker

Chic Blouse Download the diagram

1

at makeittoday.co.uk.

Cut out all pieces according to the cutting guide. Pair up two front and back pieces, right sides together, then transfer the markings from the diagram for the front neckline. Repeat with the second pair and the back neckline. Snip the front and back pieces, then neaten the centre and shoulder seams.

2

Pin the back pieces, right sides together, then stitch down the centre seam and press it open. Lay one front piece on top, right sides together, then pin and sew the shoulder. Press the seam allowance open. Repeat with the second front piece.

3

Fold the neckband in half lengthways and press.

Match the raw edges to that of the neckline and pin in place, beginning at the centre-front seam and working around the back to meet in the centre again.

Stitch with a 1cm seam allowance, then neaten the raw edges. Press the seam downwards, then trim any excess neckband from the centre front seams.

Beginnproejrect

4

Pin the front pieces, right sides together, then stitch the centre front seam, being careful to match the neckband into a neat ‘V’ shape. Lay the front and back pieces with right sides together, then pin and sew the side seams. Trim the seam allowance to 7.5mm to reduce bulk and neaten or clip along the curve of the underarm.

5

Fold a cuff piece in half widthways, right sides together. Stitch along the short edge to form a ring, then fold in half lengthways, wrong sides together. Press, then place this around the ends of a sleeve, matching the raw edges and lining up the seams. Pin in place, sew with a 1cm allowance, then neaten the raw edges. Repeat this for the other sleeve.

6

Neaten the bottom edge, then press up a 4cm hem and stitch in place. Fold the belt strip in half lengthways, right sides together, then snip each end at an angle. Sew around, leaving a gap in the centre.

Turn right sides out through the gap.

Press, then slip-stitch the gap closed.

Neaten one long edge of a belt loop, fold each long edge in by 1cm and press. Lay the neat edge on top of the raw one, then stitch. Fold each end in by 1cm, pin onto the top beside a side seam, 15cm up from the base. Sew across each end to secure.

FA B R I C

Triple Crepe in Shell

This luxe triple crepe hangs and drapes beautifully, and has a slightly crinkled texture. Choose from rich royal blues and fresh fuchsia pinks, or go for neutral shell to match our model. £16.99 per metre, minervacrafts.com

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31

Luxe THE

FAC TO R

If sewing silky fabric makes you fret, fear not as we explain how easily luxe can thrill WORDS BY JANEY GOULDING

Whoever coined the phrase ‘smooth as silk’ certainly had a sense of humour, or so it seems as you face a familiar creative quandary: you’ve seen (and stroked) a silky fabric and it’s undeniably lush, but who needs the hassle of slip-sliding away, right? Look, we’re with you; we know how it feels to caress an impulse charmeuse treat with girlish Carrie Bradshaw glee and imagine your own slinky homage to Valentino... only to stare blankly at pattern tissue or machine settings as panic sets in. We can’t bear the thought of destroying something so lovely with the wrong pins or distressed seams, and if it all results in a badly fitting, unsightly sheen drawing attention to the wrong places, forget about it. Still, before you retreat back to the comfortable confines of cotton, let our industry experts smooth things over with their silky secrets to mastering those slippery slopes with grace. As Armani declared, true elegance is not about being noticed but being remembered. A little luxury is a terrible thing to waste, so let’s boss the gloss, because it’s time to shine.

THANK YOU TO OUR CONTRIBUTORS...

HAYLEY HOWELLS, SEWHAYLEYJANE.COM KATIE MARCUS, WHATKATIESEWS.NET JEN WALKER, GINGERTHREADGIRL.CO.UK ANEKA TRUMAN, MADETOSEW.COM

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Sheen Savvy

NAMED CLOTHING’S LAURA HUHTA ON SMART SILKY STARTERS VISCOSE is an easy, inexpensive introduction to slippery fabric and ideal for everyday garments. Both this and rayon provide beautiful drape for slip dresses and blouses. Just bear in mind that it is prone to wrinkling and shrinks a lot, so pre-washing is key!

CRÊPE DE CHINE has a lovely light texture, which makes it easy for newbies to manipulate.

It has great durability and excellent wrinkle resistance. Mid-weight silk variants offer a slinky drape and subtle pebbled sheen which creates exquisite movement for smart tops and dresses.

FA B R I C

TAFFETA is a stiff, stable plain weave which is relatively simple to handle. As it is firm and crisp, it is excellent for evening gowns, which generally require a little more weight as well as lustre. Their structure works well with any projects where big skirts are a feature. namedclothing.com

Rise and shine

STAY SMOOTH, AS WE PRESENT YOUR GUIDE TO A LUXURY GLIDE…

Making a Splash...

Perhaps you’ve been told about the perils of introducing water to luxe fabrics? Yet the best way to prevent marks or distortion from errant splashes is to wash before you cut anything.

As Hayley Howells, creator of Sew Hayley Jane points out, plenty of silks are fine in the washing machine (the same goes for polyester satin and nylon taffeta), so you can confidently run them through a gentle cycle in cold water.

Just use common sense, adds Aneka Truman of Made to Sew, who points out some fabrics still require hand-washing.

Furthermore, you’ll find a timely spritz can reap dividends when getting your pattern pieces in hand, as Katie Marcus, owner of What Katie Sews, points out. “It’s a good idea to pretreat fabric with a starch spray, so it’s less susceptible to distortion and easier to handle while sewing,” says Katie. You’ll find the extra stability helps to simplify the process of cutting, as Gingerthread Girl founder Jen Walker notes. “The most helpful tip I had with sheer slippery fabric like chiffon is to temporarily stiffen it with starch spray.

Best advice ever!”

Are You Cutting It?

Possibly the biggest challenge you’ll face will be the few seconds before you make that first incision. “Take your time at the cutting stage,” says Katie. “If you cut wonky pieces, there isn’t really any going back.” As pattern

designer Jennifer Lauren notes, the major issue with slippery material is that it tends to move off grain during cutting so the garment doesn’t fit right.

“You might find it easier to re-trace any fold pattern pieces so they are one whole, and cut from that,” she suggests. If you do cut on the fold, says Aneka, you can stabilise the material by layering it between two sheets of tissue or calico.

Place the folded fabric, right sides together, on paper. Rest a second layer of paper above it, pin your pattern on top, then cut. “This creates a safe fabric sandwich, protected between stable elements, which helps prevent slips,” says Aneka. She also advises a nap layout, with all pieces facing in the same direction, so you don’t get light inconsistencies.

Opinion is divided on whether to use scissors or a rotary blade. Unless you’re stabilising, a rotary is best to keep emerging pattern pieces flat and snagfree. “Even slipping a scissor blade under a lightweight fabric can distort things,” says Hayley. Where you do use scissors, make sure they are as sharp as possible, preferably with a micro-serrated edge.

Dull scissors always make cutting tricky, but it’s especially true with slippery fabric, says Victory Patterns creator Kristiann Boos, adding, “It should feel like a hot knife cutting through butter!”

Blossoms and Botanicals From sun-kissed petals to moodier blooms, Beckford Silk’s selection of satin, crêpe de chine, georgette and dupion shot present a symphony of variations for luxury stitching, from Deco-inspired Country Garden Peony to the watercolour swirls of Meadow Sweet Cherry Blossom and the liquid mallow of Botanical Misty. From £30.50 per metre, beckfordsilk.co.uk

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33

Power of the Pins

60-70 Sharps, advises Hayley, but test on a scrap of similar fabric to make sure you’re happy. It’s incredible how quickly needles get blunt, says Kristiann, so always start a fresh garment with a new needle. You may need to adapt the size, as Aneka points out. “Fine silk, georgette or chiffon is better with a smaller needle such as a 60/8, but for a medium weight silk, go for a 80/12,” she says. “With certain densely woven fabrics, use a Microtex needle to pierce the weave effectively.”

Hand sewing also requires fine sharps, not to mention a well-lit workspace. In her blog Did You Make That? Karen Ball describes the process with amusement: “You’ll want a teeny sharp, and a thimble. Possibly a magnifying glass... definitely a head torch!”

Curiously, silky stitchers have mixed preferences when selecting thread. While cotton options blend remarkably well with silk fabric, Kristiann and Aneka recommend a fine embroidery silk thread, which slides easily without leaving holes. “As a rule, the thread should be weaker than the fabric,” says Aneka.

“So cotton is ideal for 100% silk fabric, while polyester thread is fine for man-made fibres.”

Laura and Saara of Named Clothing advise

One thing all our silky stitchers agree on is the importance of pinning to secure the layers and details. “Pins are your friends so use plenty,” declares Jen Walker. Extra-fine or ultra-fine glass head and silk options are less likely to leave a noticeable puncture and will glide beautifully through the fabric, lessening the heartbreak of unsightly snags. When it comes to attaching the pins, Aneka highlights a few points that are especially effective with light and diaphanous textures: pin in the selvedge to prevent puckering, and stick within the seam allowances where possible.

“It’s also beneficial to pin parallel to the seam line when you’re working with silk,” she explains. “Pinning horizontally to the seam may cause the point to catch and tear the closely woven fibres.”

Even allowing for this, says Kristiann, slippery fabric can distort along its edge in ways that might surprise you if you are used to more sturdy woven styles. Being less stable, one side may stretch more than the other as you work so, when pinning, take time to align and realign the edges carefully. And once your fabric is secured, says Hayley, find a scrap piece of tissue paper and pin it under the first couple of inches; this helps protect the fabric when you make those first stitches.

Swimming with Sharps

If all that talk of pins didn’t have you eyeballing the carpet for errant silver, there’s also the matter of needles. For delicate projects, the preferred types are slim-size

Shape up with Silk...

KRISTIANN BOOS ON FLATTERING CONTOURS WITH LUXE FABS My work as designer of Victory Patterns is informed by a love of fabrics that move with the body. Since silky material falls closer to the skin, I lean towards this for designs with more drape; I love the shaping with a slinky rayon challis or crêpe de chine. My Trina dress, with its full sleeves and skirts, has gorgeous movement with luxe; the properties of texture and light interact in an elegant yet easy way.

Trina combines a traditional kimono sleeve with a wrap dress, romantic yet contemporary, for which silky texture is well suited. Art Deco is a key influence, adding a

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THE TRINA DRESS IN A LIGHT SILK CHARMEUSE

touch of drama, but also poise: think of the Hollywood starlet in her silk robe. A slinky wrap flatters all shapes, and a silky drape only enhances that. Trina looks great with all kinds of luxe fabs – my grandma had a version made from georgette in her collection for decades, and it’s one of my favourites.

Fine fabric such as chiffon, georgette, charmeuse, crêpe de chine or rayon challis catapults this style into something enigmatic yet unforgettable. victorypatterns.com

against polyester thread for silk, though; because it is stronger, it will eventually cut into the fibres. Silk thread is also useful for tacking, where darts, pleats or curved seams are required.

Setting the Sheen

Something seems to happen to sewing machines around silky fabric: your trusty friend might start to act like it’s feeding time! Given the flimsy and reactive nature of slippery and lightweight materials, you’re urged to test-sew on scraps to gauge proper feed, says Jen Walker: “Best to let the scraps be scoffed, rather than your garment pieces!”

Try a throat plate with a tiny hole for straight stitch, as this will prevent finer, silky textures getting sucked through the gap. “If your machine begins to nibble, place a small strip of tissue paper under the material at the start to reduce the chance of chewing,” suggests Hayley. “Once you’ve finished, you can just rip the tissue paper away.” Stabilising fabric is important, notes Aneka, and you may require this on the whole seam, or just to help you get started.

Aneka advises sewing with a smaller stitch length; delicate fabrics work best at the 1.5mm-2mm setting. As a general rule, the lighter the fabric, the smaller the stitch length required. Again, test a sample first,

and don’t be afraid to adjust both tension and stitch length. For fine textures, a three-step zigzag doesn’t tend to pucker like regular zigzag. Katie also suggests using a walking foot for even feeding. This will all help pull the fabric through the machine, as it can be difficult to get a rhythm going at first. You may find it helps to pull gently on the needle thread and bobbin thread until the fabric moves smoothly. Just take care not to stretch it. “Your hands will serve as a wonderful tool for getting the fabric to behave,” Kristiann says. “They just need time to get used to it.”

Fazed By Frays?

Just when you think you’re getting the hang of this silky stitching lark, you may find things literally falling apart at the seams, since slippery textiles such as satin and viscose have a tendency to fray. You can try an overlock stitch at the cutting or washing stage, or fuse strips of 3-6mm fusible interfacing along all the pattern edges to preserve seam allowances. What matters here is finishing, and for this, Hayley’s advice is to use French seams.

“This is the surest way to extend the life of a garment,” she notes. As Laura adds, it also gives structure to delicate lines.

Experts also swear by rolled hems for a neat, barely-there effect; try one with or without a rolled hem foot, or even by hand.

If you’re working on a lining or a layer of polyester, says Aneka, you can sew a rolled hem on an overlocker. Just remember before you hem to let the garment hang for 24 hours; this allows the grain line to fall into its natural place, says Kristiann. “The shape of our bodies can also dictate a hemline adjustment,” she says. “It might be higher in the back of the garment, due to the fullness of our friend back there!”

Recruit a friend to help with these crucial adjustments.

Stop… Press!

A hastily applied iron can be traumatic.

With fine silks like dupioni and shantung, pressed creases are difficult to reverse.

“When pressing seams, test your iron to make sure the temperature is right and won’t leave marks,” Hayley suggests.

To protect from the dreaded limescale spew, Aneka recommends a low heat and a pressing cloth made from organza, which can withstand high temperatures and is sheer so you can see what you’re pressing.

Aneka adds that a little understanding of the property of the fibres will help refine your pressing technique. A natural fibre such as 100% silk can take a good amount of heat, but does not work well with steam, whilst a man-made alternative such as polyester requires a cooler temperature, as it is famously prone to melting if you don’t take care. Apart from that, says Hayley? “Take a deep breath -– and keep a big supply of tea handy!”

Silky Psychology JENNIFER LAUREN ON PSYCHING YOURSELF FOR SILKY SUCCESS We’re all guilty of fumbling some aspect of silky sewing on our first attempts, usually because we’re in a hurry: I remember hemming a stunning fifties rayon dress in a rush, using the wrong pins, not testing my stitch settings ­– all the things I now know are crucial. And because little accidents seem magnified with slippery slip-ups, it can put people off. Which is a shame, because silky stitching is so gratifying.

Really, it boils down to attitude: keep your cool, and always be patient.

Honestly, going into the process knowing that it will take you longer sets you up for a happier experience. Any sudden movement

at the cutting stage can throw off grain, seam allowances and special markings.

Allow for a different pace, and try to relax.

It’s a labour of love, but the rewards will be so worth it. I also think choosing a simple pattern with fewer pieces can boost confidence. Choose designs that allow you to focus on how the fabric moves, rather than construction, before building towards fitting techniques. Take your time, be gentle and listen to the luxe. You are the fabric whisperer! jenniferlaurenvintage.com

Glossy Girls 1

DEVELOP YOUR SILKY SKILLS WITH THESE SHINY HAPPY PEOPLE CARING FOR SATIN Get to grips with the basics of satin, with this chatty overview on the weave, different variations and common handling issues. sewguide.com/satin

SILK Delight in 2 CUTTING the control that comes with

cutting through paper, with this guide to preparing a silk sandwich for charmeuse, habotai and organza. grainlinestudio.com ON THE BIAS 3 WORKING Follow this sympathetic

approach to a cunning subject, and get to grips with the properties and potential of a classic technique. seamwork.com SLIPPY FABRIC 4 SEWING All the tools and tricks you

need to score a silky showstopper, with this comprehensive guide to mastering trickier textiles. madetosew.com makeittoday.co.uk

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PATTERNS EVERY ISSUE

FA B R I C

Simply British

It’s a wonderful time to be a Brit; with a third baby for Kate and William due any day and two weddings to look forward to later this year, there’s plenty of celebrating to be had. We’re kicking the party off early with a fantastic showcase of the very best iconic designers and the most desired fabrics produced in dear ol’ Blighty. There’s something from all your favourites, such as Dashwood Studio and Cath Kidston – and, of course, we couldn’t leave Liberty out of this sensational collection. Relax with a clotted cream-draped scone and piping hot cuppa, and enjoy this great British feast of fabric goodness.

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1. ROYAL BLUE: Liberty Cobalt Blue Plain Tana Lawn Cotton, £16.95 per metre, libertylondon.com 2. PRIM & PROPER: Dashwood Studio Flurry Red Poppy, £12 per metre, printstopolkadots.co.uk 3. ENGLISH GARDEN: Lady McElroy Cotton Lawn Blush Vine Pink, £14.49 per metre, doughtysonline.co.uk 4. PICNIC PERFECT: Linton Tweeds Peach Piece Dye, £26 per metre, lintondirect.co.uk 5. FULL BLOOM: Cath Kidston Island Bunch Cotton, £20 per metre, cathkidston.com 38

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GET THE LOOK! Jacket, Shirt and Trousers all bonmarche.co.uk

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MAKE IT TODAY ISSUE 32_MAKE IT TODAY 22/02/2018 11:25 Page 39

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Unlike most pattern making software of its price range, Fittingly Sew’s emphasis is on freedom to design rather than on ready made garments. The built-in pattern and body blocks in Fittingly Sew are all women’s, but you can adapt any of them to use for men’s or children’s clothes, or even for dolls.

New in version 2 is the ability to trace pattern pieces from background images, which may be photos of existing garments, scans of patterns from other sources, or even screen captures of other pattern design software.

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This robust model unites ease of use with the specialised functions of an advanced serger and can produce beautifully unique two-thread edging, perfect for finer fabrics and lingerie.

Switching from standard overlocking to rolled hemming just requires a flick of a switch – it’s that easy! Plus, threading is a breeze thanks to colour-coded guides and a self-threading lower looper. If you’re an experienced sewer looking for a mid-range machine to give the perfect finish, this is the choice for you. janome.co.uk

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Great all-rounder 3. JAGUAR 487

This superbly engineered overlocker is a popular choice amongst sewing enthusiasts due to its Easy Threading System which allows the front of the machine to open 180 degrees. This serger provides a professional finish on all types and weights of materials, whilst coping with stretch fabric effortlessly. The robust device comes pre-threaded and cuts as it sews, making it capable of reaching a maximum speed of up to 1,300 stitches per minute! jaguarsewingmachines.co.uk

MAKE IT TODAY ISSUE 32_MAKE IT TODAY 22/02/2018 11:25 Page 41

Beginnproejrect ESSENTIAL KIT Fabric, 2.2m x 1.5m Coordinating thread

CUTTING GUIDE NOTE: Start by taking your hip measurement DRESS: Cut two 1.05m x (half of hip plus 80cm) rectangles NECKBAND: Cut one 5cm x 72cm strip on the bias BELT: Cut one 12cm x 1.4m strip Use 1.5cm seam allowance, unless specified otherwise

WEAR THIS EVENING

Tie-belt Dress

Draft your own chic slinky number This effortless beauty of a dress by Amanda Walker is comprised of two nearly identical pieces that are finished with an easy neckband. You don’t even need to shape the body as this is done with a tie-belt, and the design can easily be modified to suit your figure. For added interest, make the neckband and belt in a contrast fabric or, if you prefer a more narrow sleeve, you can adjust the pattern with our helpful tips.

Amanda Walker

Tie-belt Dress Cut out all the pieces

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according to the cutting guide at makeittoday.co.uk.

Fold one dress piece in half lengthways, right sides together, and transfer the markings onto it as indicated, drawing the front neckline.

Repeat for the second piece, this time drawing the back neckline. Cut out both, then neaten the raw edges of the shoulder and upper sleeve.

2

Lay the front and back right sides facing, matching the shoulder and upper sleeve seams.

Pin, stitch, then press the seam allowances open. Fold the neckband in half, right sides together, then sew across the short edge. With wrong sides facing, fold the resulting circle in half lengthways and press.

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3

Match the joining seam of the neckline to the centre back, lining up the raw edges and stretching the neckband slightly. Stitch around with a 1cm seam allowance, then neaten all the raw edges. Press the seam downwards so the neckband sits flush with the main dress.

4

Place the front and back right sides together.

Match and pin the lower sleeve and side seams, then sew each in one continuous line. Trim the seam allowance to 7.5mm, then neaten or clip along the underarm curve.

Turn in by 3cm at both the sleeve cuffs and base hemline, then press and stitch.

5

Fold the belt strip in half lengthways, right sides together, then snip each end at an angle. Stitch the raw edges with a 1cm seam, leaving a gap in the centre.

Trim the bulk from the corners, then turn the tie out through the gap. Push out the corners, then press and slip-stitch closed.

FA B R I C

Beginnproejrect

NO-PATTERN

make

Leopard Polyester Crepe

Choose a fabric with great drape for the best results, like this polycrepe in patterned blue and mauve. ÂŁ8.99 per metre, minervacrafts.com

A D J U ST I N G SLEEVES If you prefer close-fitting sleeves, this pattern can easily be modified to suit. Measure around the widest part of your upper arm, divide that number in two and add 6cm for ease.

Extend the straight side seam higher and shift the underarm curve up so that the width matches your measurement rather than 30cm.

makeittoday.co.uk

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g n i w e S e v i t c e t e D The inside scoop on sewing secrets with Lorna Knight, our dressmaking expert Although I always try to follow the lines exactly when I sew darts, they never look right.

What am I doing wrong?

ASK THE DETECTIVE !

CONSIDER YOUR CURVE BEFORE SNIPPING OR NOTCHING

ISOBEL, WIGSTON Darts are often drawn onto pattern tissue as a straight line, like a triangle, but our bodies are curvy, so straight darts are unlikely to shape over the contour of our hips, waist and bust in a fully representative way. The trick is to use the basic line and position from the pattern tissue, but curve the dart slightly so that the stitching runs along the fold of the fabric when you reach the point. This means sewing from the wide part of the dart towards the point and then, just before you reach the end, curving very slightly and sewing on the fold before veering off and tying the thread ends. That way, the rounded point of the dart will sit smoothly over the curve of your figure and won’t leave a little bump or dimple when the garment is finished. The final step is to iron it lightly over a tailor’s ham using a pressing cloth to protect your work.

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Fix your dressm ak machine bugbea ing dilemmas, rs, tailoring troub les and more! Writ Sewing Detecti e to Lorna at ve, Dressmaker, 1 Make It Today Phoe Hawkins Road, nix Court, Colchester, CO2 8JY or em ail jane.goulding@ aceville.co.uk

How do I know whether to snip or notch a curved seam to make it lie flat, and do you have any tips on clipping curves?

Any tips on making a reversible jacket so it looks good on both sides, and which seams or edges are most suitable?

KAREN, SOUTHPORT

EMILY, PADSTOW

This is a good question, and if you get it right, your clothes will look much more professional. On a concave curve, snip into the seam allowance, close to the stitching; this allows the turned and pressed seam to open out and lie flat. On a convex curve, cutting notches into the seam allowance means the ‘V’ shapes close up when the seam is turned through and ironed flat.

If you cut snips in a convex seam, the layers would fold over each other and be bulky.

An even better way to do this is to stagger the snips and notches on each layer of seam allowance to reduce the chances of weakening the seam. A final consideration is to trim both allowances to a minimum if your fabric doesn’t fray. This cuts away all the bulk and is much quicker than snipping or notching, but only works if you trust the fabric not to fray.

First of all, consider your fabric. You could choose a double-faced cloth made of two layers bonded together, or a cloth that looks good on both sides. If you find a bonded fabric with two faces, tease the layers apart at the edges, so you can join panels by sewing one side as a plain seam, then tucking the cut edges of the other half under and then slip-stitching to bind them; this gives an invisible join. If you find a cloth which cannot be separated and looks good from both sides, join the panels with flat-fell seams or, if using particularly thick cloth, lapped seams. These give a flat join, which looks neat from both sides. For edges and hems, binding is an excellent choice. You could choose a colour to match with one side and contrast with the other, or pick a third colour. Use on the hem, cuffs and collar for a practical and decorative finish.

D I S COV E R MORE TIPS

As I’m new to dressmaking, please can you explain what the ‘with nap’ reference means in the pattern instructions?

You’ll find plenty more technique tips by picking up a copy of The Dressmaking Technique Bible (£15, David & Charles) fwcommunity.com

EMMA, CANTERBURY Any fabric with a brushed surface or pile will have shading differences, depending on the direction at which the light catches it. This effect is described as nap and, if a fabric has one, it requires a little more consideration than a flat-surfaced fabric when cutting.

Examples of napped fabrics include brushed cotton/flannelette or velveteen, where there are fluffy fibres on the face of the cloth.

Fabrics such as velvet, polar fleece or faux fur are said to have a pile, since the surface fibres are longer, but they should still be treated as having a nap. Imagine stroking a furry pet: there is an obvious way to run your hand over its coat, from head to tail. If you brush velvet, as if it were a cat or dog, the fibres will lie flat and the fabric will appear lighter; if you stroke the opposite way, it will be deeper, as the fibres are lifted and you look into the shadow of the pile.

Essentially, this means a fabric with a nap or pile has a direction, so it’s important to cut all the pattern pieces in the same way to prevent shading differences. Make a decision about the way you want your material to hang, then mark the top of the fabric length with a safety pin or chalk. When placing your pattern onto the fabric, make sure the top of each panel is at the marked end. This means that the waist of all skirt panels, shoulder seams and sleeve heads are at the same end, so everything faces the same way. If you can’t decide whether your material has a nap then just assume it has – if you have enough fabric.

It’s better to do that than realise too late that there was a nap after all!

Take it further...

Working with Nap

If I want to finish the hem of a dress for my two-year old daughter with a broderie anglaise style finish, how do I attach it?

GABRIELLE, HORNSEA Instead of buying some to sew on, why not make your own? Modern sewing machines have lots of fancy stitches and if you sew a mixture together, you can quickly create your own lacy trim. The most appropriate stitches are scallops, swirly curves, leaves, flowers and traditional eyelets that can be opened up and punched. You can use cotton thread on a 100% cotton fabric, or a shiny polyester or rayon embroidery thread on a matt cloth.

First, press your cotton lawn or poplin with spray starch. Test some preprogrammed stitches to see if they will work and sketch out a plan, then stitch them in neat rows with a solid scallop-style stitch closest to the edge. Cut away the excess with sharp scissors to highlight the shape. If you have included any eyelet stitches, use a punch or tailor’s awl to open up the holes; leave these open or thread fine ribbon through them for an interesting effect. When your trim is completed, fold over a tiny hem at the top raw edge towards the right side and place under the hem of your skirt. Adjust the amount of trim visible, then pin. Using a matching thread, topstitch or hand-sew to the inside side of the hem allowance.

MAKE SURE YOU HEAD IN THE RIGHT DIRECTION WITH THESE TIPS Stroke the material and examine it carefully to establish if there is a nap or direction to the length.

Decide which end of your fabric length is to be the top, then make sure all the pieces are laid on the fabric in the correct direction.

When sewing with velvet or cord, use the downward nap (stroke from top to hem) for a lighter shade and hard-wearing clothes; for a richer colour, turn the pieces the other way.

Use the grain lines printed on your pattern and make sure that these are parallel to the selvedge edges.

Pin, tack or clip to hold the layers together when sewing seams; if the fabric has a longer pile, the layers tend to slide apart while you stitch. Wonder clips are great for this.

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C L OT H S P OT FA B R I C S E T S

Top up your stash to even greater heights this month with a magnificent fabric selection from ClothSpot. Three winners will receive all the material they need to get started on their spring/summer wardrobe: a lightweight cotton for shirts or blouses, a length of dress material, plus a bonus lucky dip treat. Three ClothSpot Fabric Bundles, worth £50 each, clothspot.co.uk

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M I N I B AC K PAC K S E W I N G K I TS

We love nothing more than a quick-stitch make, which is why we’ve teamed up with Craftess to offer five readers a mini denim backpack kit. This cute bag is easily portable and comes with a handy front pocket, plus plenty of room in the main zipped compartment too. Even better, this fun project can be made in just an afternoon!

Five Mini Backpack Sewing Kits, worth £25 each, craftess.com

Giveaways Enter for your chance to win sewing goodies!

THE CRAFTY MASTERMIND SEWING BUNDLE

makeittoday.co.uk

Spark your imagination with a bumper bundle from fabric boutique The Crafty Mastermind. One lucky winner will get their hands on a deluxe pair of Tula Pink Rainbow Shears, a Maker’s Workbook with space enough for 25 projects, plus two patterns from indie brands, Named and Tilly and the Buttons.

The Crafty Mastermind Sewing Bundle, worth £81, thecraftymastermind.co.uk

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CO P I E S O F S E W YO U R OW N AC T I V E W E A R

Marathon runner and sewing expert, Melissa Fehr has combined her two loves in new-release title Sew Your Own Activewear. This comprehensive book offers a whole host of unique garments to perfectly suit your workout, from stretchy yoga pants and crop tops to slouchy leggings for post-exercise lounging.

Five copies of Sew Your Own Activewear

by Melissa Fehr, worth £16.99 each, fwmedia.com

T H E AV I D S E A M ST R E S S PAT T E R N S

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Independent sewing pattern company The Avid Seamstress is launching two brandnew designs: The Coat and The Gathered Dress. Compounding on its minimalist appeal, the patterns include elegant yet practical silhouettes to cater for a wide range of shapes and sizes. Winners will each receive one coat or dress pattern.

Five New The Avid Seamstress Patterns, worth £16 each, theavidseamstress.co.uk

HEMLINE H A B BY PA R C E L S

Get hem happy with Hemline’s trio of gauges, which measure pleats and buttons, too. The point turner will ease out collars, pockets and cuffs for a crisp finish, while the button gauge sizes up shank depth for perfect placement. Each prize has been topped off with a fat quarter bundle.

Five Hemline Habby Bundles, worth £20 each. For stockists, email groves@stockistenquiries.co.uk

More than £1,000 worth of prizes

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S E W E A SY CIRCLE RULERS

Create perfect circles with a Sew Easy Slash-N-Circle Ruler. This handy ruler features semi-circle slots, thick enough for rotary cutters, to help you cut the ideal shape from fabric. You’ll also find detailed instructions inside to help guide you through the process.

Six Sew Easy Circle Rulers, worth £22 each. For stockists, email groves@stockistenquiries.co.uk

Don’t miss out!

Enter by 12th April 2018

T H I M B L E T I DYS Is your craft desk in need of a spring clean? There’s

no better way to clear up than with a giant golden thimble tidy! This sturdy little pot will easily store your pens, rulers and scissors, while fitting right at home with the ambience of your sewing room. Eight lucky winners will get their hands on one.

Eight Flamingo Gifts Thimble Tidys, worth £10.99 each, flamingogifts.co.uk

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GÜTERMANN THREAD PAC K S Whether you’re a machinist or prefer the handsewn touch, reliable high-quality thread is essential for achieving that professional finish. This practical set of 100% polyester threads, includes 11 spools in neutral tones, plus a stitch counter and seam ripper.

Eight Gütermann Thread Packs, worth £19.50 each. For stockists, email gutermann@stockistenquiries.co.uk

makeittoday.co.uk

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Beginnproejrect

DRAFT A MIDI

Button Skirt Flattering fit with crepe georgette

Join the heavyweights in style with this gorgeous easy make from Amanda Walker: a sweeping, structured crepe georgette midi that skims the mid-calf with a bright and breezy flounce. It uses the full width of your fabric for minimal waste and, even better, it’s pattern-free!

You only need to work out a few simple measurements to create a perfect fit: just stitch together some cute pockets and button work, and you’re all set. For a really flattering length, position the hemline on the most narrow part of your calves – instant midi a la mode!

Amanda Walker

ESSENTIAL KIT Heavyweight fabric, 150cm Coordinating thread Fusible interfacing Buttons, six

CUTTING GUIDE SKIRT: Cut one rectangle, 150cm x (desired length plus 4.5cm) WAISTBAND: Cut one strip, 10cm x (waist measurement plus 8cm) in fabric and interfacing POCKET: Cut two rectangles, 21cm x 23cm Use 1.5cm seam allowances throughout

Button Skirt Download and cut out

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all the pattern pieces as indicated in the cutting guide. Fuse the waistband interfacing to the wrong side of the fabric piece, plus a 3cm-wide strip of interfacing along the wrong side of each skirt selvedge edge. Neaten the raw edges, fold the selvedges in by 3cm and press.

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Neaten one short edge of a pocket piece and fold over by 3cm to the wrong side, then the other edges in by 1cm, then press. Sew across, 2.5cm down from the upper pocket edge. Clip the corners, then pin 18cm down from the upper edge of the skirt, so each pocket is 20cm in from the folded selvedge.

Edgestitch around the sides and bottom.

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Work two parallel rows of long stitches, 5mm apart, along the upper edge of the skirt. Gently pull the threads, evenly distributing the gathers, until the width is 5cm more than your waist measurement.

4

Pin the waistband to the gathered edge of the skirt, right sides together, with 1.5cm overlap at each selvedge edge. Pin, stitch in place, then fold in half lengthways and sew across each short end.

Tuck over inside the skirt and pin in place, then stitch in the ditch to secure.

Beginnproejrect FA B R I C

T RY T H I S alternative PRINT! NO-PATTERN Woven Crepe Watercolour Flowers

make

We love our charcoal and crimson Stoff & Stil fabric, but for an alternative that is in stock, try this heavyweight crepe georgette, artfully blending pastel splashes. ÂŁ8 per metre, stoffstil.co.uk

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Neaten the lower hemline with a zigzag stitch or overlocker, fold a 3cm hem and press. Tuck up the bottom of the front facing, then sew the ends along the pressed line of the hem. Clip the corners and secure the facing with hand stitches.

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Beginning at the top of one selvedge edge, sew the facing and hemline 2.5cm down from the fold, working down the facing and up the other side. Sew a buttonhole on the right-hand side of the waistband, plus five more at 10cm intervals down the right-hand front facing.

Add corresponding buttons on the left to finish.

THE KNOWLEDGE

The following is based on a size 10 (72cm waist) with a desired length of 87cm: Skirt: 150 x (87 [length] + 4.5* = 91.5) 150cm x 91.5cm Waistband: 10 x (72 [waist] + 8** = 80) 10cm x 80cm *Extra 4.5cm length is for the hem (3cm) plus waistband seam allowance (1.5cm). ** Extra 8cm width is for ease (2cm), overlap (3cm) and seam allowances (3cm).

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MAKE IT TODAY ISSUE 32_MAKE IT TODAY 22/02/2018 12:29 Page 50

Beginnproejrect ICONIC STYLE MADE SIMPLE

Chanel Jacket Lifelong fashion kudos you can stitch in an afternoon!

Doyenne of practical fashion, Chanel adapted a mainstay of menswear for the feminine shape with her legendary box jacket. Amanda Walker’s project shows you how to make your own comely classic in a beautiful textured knit. Stitched in boucle, wool mix or tweed, and equally stylish as a smart business piece or a sassy accompaniment to jeans and a shirt, this jacket is quickly fashioned with pockets, shoulder pads and a supple lining. Legend has it that the original had a chain stitched into the lining to weigh it, but you don’t need to go to those lengths: just add a braid trim in matching or contrasting fabric, and you’ll make fashion history!

Amanda Walker

DOWNLOAD THE PATTERN FROM

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Beginnproejrect

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Position the pockets on the base side edges of the front jacket pieces.

Match the raw edges with the open edges of the pockets on the side and base. Pin, then edgestitch the front sides of the pockets; the remaining edges will be caught in with the side seams and lining insertion. Lay the front jacket on top of the back, right sides together. Pin and sew the shoulder edges, press the seams open and repeat for the lining. Match the side seams on the front and back side edges, stitch and press the seams open.

ESSENTIAL KIT Textured knit, 1.2m x 1.5m Lining, 1.2m x 1.5m Matching thread Shoulder pads Buttons, two Braid, 2.5m

CUTTING GUIDE FRONT: Cut one pair in both main fabric and lining BACK: Cut one on fold in both main fabric and lining SLEEVES: Cut one pair in both main fabric and lining POCKETS: Cut two in both main fabric and lining 1.5cm seam allowances are used throughout.

Under-stitching used on neckline and centre front edges.

3

Chanel Jacket Download and cut out

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the pattern from makeittoday.co.uk. Lay the lining pocket on top of the fabric pocket and pin, right sides together, then stitch across the top and down one side. Trim the bulk and turn out. Tease out the corner and seams, then press. Repeat for the other pocket, stitching the opposite way round. Cut a length of braid slightly longer than the top of each pocket and hand-stitch in place, folding the raw end onto the wrong side.

Adjust the stitch length to 5 and sew gathering stitches around the head of the sleeves, working from the front notch to the back.

Match, pin and stitch the underarm sleeve seams, right sides together. Press the seams open. Pull the gathering threads up, then place the sleeves into the armholes. Match the side seams and underarm seam, pin and stitch the sleeves.

Fold and press up the 4cm hem and hand-hem, then sew a pad into each shoulder.

Make up the sleeve linings in the same way, then stitch into the body of the lining.

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Turn the jacket out, but leave the lining unturned.

Match the neckline and front edges, pin and sew. Clip around the neckline and trim the bulk from the corners.

Turn the lining inside the

FA B R I C Ultramarine Boucle

Cool statement jackets deserve a bold fabric design. Stone Fabric’s highly textured cotton wool and viscose boucle knit has a magnificent handle, with a vivid lapis lazuli pigment. Code 5347, £19.50 per metre, stonefabrics.co.uk

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Beginnproejrect jacket, then under-stitch around the neckline and down each front edge. Match the ends of the sleeve linings to the jacket sleeve, then hand-stitch around each cuff.

GET THE LOOK! Look One: Dress £24.99, tkmaxx.com. Shoes £35, Faith at debenhams.com. Look Two: Shirt £16.99, Shoes £19.99, both tkmaxx.com. Jeans £25.99, new look.com

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Turn the lining and jacket inside out. Match the base of the main fabric and lining, then stitch, leaving a gap in the centre back of the jacket; the base of the pockets will be caught into this seam.

Trim the bulk from the corners, then turn the jacket out through the gap and slip-stitch closed. Hand-sew braid across the base, up the centre front edges and around the neckline. Stitch two buttons to the pockets, then press the jacket to finish.

“If you don’t have shoulder pads, you can cut a pair of pads from a small piece of wadding and stitch them into the shoulder in the same way to create a slightly softer shoulder line” AMANDA WALKER, DESIGNER

why not try?

TRIM TIP These classic lines suit heritage prints. Try a sugar-pop coral tweed (8292), bobble-ripe magenta wool and boucle blend (8593) or sixties-inspired mono puzzle checker-twist (8688). From just £14.50 per metre, stonefabrics.co.uk

As a design adaptation, you can easily swap the braid with a frayed edging trim. Stitch frayed boucle strips, 3cm wide, between the lining and outer layers of fabric, as you would for piping. This frays naturally on the selvedge, but you can enhance the fraying by snipping 2cm in at regular intervals along its length.

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5M Gold Satin Fabric

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Denim Daze

It’s time to tackle this heavyweight head on

Jeans, jeggings, jackets – we can’t get enough of these closet classics. But when it comes to making our own, it’s easy to see why us dressmakers can find denim daunting. There’s lots to delve in and learn about, from the importance of choosing the correct needle to mastering pockets and dealing with bulky seams, not to mention decorative topstitching for that authentic ‘Levi’s look’. Fortunately, there’s classes aplenty to help make stitching with denim a doddle; we’ve picked out three to get you started, covering the crème de la sewing crème: a pair of jeans.

Guthrie & Ghani BIRMINGHAM

Have you always wanted perfect fitting jeans? Are you an experienced dressmaker looking to develop your skills?

Learn how to make a pair that matches your body measurements in this fun two-day workshop with experienced tutor Layla Totah. Choose Closet Case Ginger Jeans, which are designed for stretch denim and can be made as either a comfortable low-rise with narrow stovepipe legs or high-waisted with a tummyslimming pocket stay. Alternatively, go for the mid-rise Morgan, a slim boyfriend pattern perfect for non-stretch and selvedge denim. In addition to the pattern, attendees will also receive access to all the equipment needed to get started, plus there’s a 10% discount on all the supplies you require, including fabric and notions, plus a voucher for a local cafe, serving delicious lunches and hot drinks nearby.

SAVE THE DATE: Make Your Perfect Fit Jeans, from 20th April 2018, £145, guthrie-ghani.co.uk

More to explore...

DENIM DELIGHTS ACROSS THE UK

The Stitchery Studio, Glasgow

Led by founder Cassandra Macindoe, The Stitchery Studio’s four-day workshop will introduce you to the process of making a wearable jeans toile and using what you learn from this to adjust your paper pattern and achieve a better fit.

You’ll also learn a number of beyondbeginner techniques, such as: sewing a front fly, belt loops, flat-felled seams, patch and slash pockets, and waistbands.

SAVE THE DATE: Making Jeans Workshop, 9th June-7th June, £330, thestitcherystudio.com

Ray Stitch, London

Suitable for experienced sewers, Ray Stitch has pulled together four half-day sessions to guide you through all the techniques you need to construct your perfect pair of Ginger Jeans. As well as offering up a skinny fit for women, men can pop along and stitch the Jedediah Pants by Thread Theory, a classic chino style.

SAVE THE DATE: Men’s and Women’s Fit: Jean Workshop, 17th April 20188th May 2018, £245, raystitch.co.uk

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FA B R I C

h s i t i r B f o t s e B

From Land’s End to John o’ Groats, we’ve scoured the country for the finest fabrics and designers

Lewis & Irene Bumbleberries Multi Greens and Blues, £9.96 per metre, woolwarehouse.co.uk

TIPS FOR CRÊPE DE CHINE Weigh down the corners with weights before cutting to prevent it from moving, or try laying tissue paper beneath the fabric to stop it slipping.

Use a pressing cloth when working with silk to reduce the chance of any accidents occurring between the iron and fabric.

Til the Sun Goes Down Silk Crêpe de Chine Molly Spot, £36 per metre, bloomsburysquarefabrics.com

Deep Fuchsia Pink Pure Wool Crêpe (5813), £26.50 per metre, stonefabrics.co.uk

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Test your pins on a scrap of fabric to check that they easily pierce it without dragging or leaving a hole.

Dashwood Life’s Journey Dash, £11.96 per metre, woolwarehouse.co.uk

John Kaldor Blossom Print Blue, £30 per metre, johnlewis.com

“Sundance is my vibrant new floral collection with Makower.

It features a bold selection of pinks, yellows, oranges and turquoise set against both black and ivory backgrounds to create two very contrasting but equally vibrant colourways” BETH STUDLEY, DESIGNER

Patterns to try PICK A PATTERN FROM ONE OF THESE FABULOUS BRITISH DESIGNERS

Linton Tweeds Pale Pink Piece Dye, £30 per metre, lintondirect.co.uk

Heidi Meadow Tana Lawn Cotton, £22.50 per metre, libertylondon.com

By Hand London Elisalex Dress, £9.50, byhandlondon.com

Lady McElroy Cotton Twill Lobella Bloom, £14.49 per metre, doughtysonline.co.uk

Coppice Camel and Smoke Green Checked Wool, £14.50 per metre, clothspot.co.uk Gather Mortmain Dress, £14, fabricgodmother.co.uk

Beth Studley for Makower Sundance Dashes Yellow, £12 per metre, bigbobbin.com

Makower Katie Jane Rose Pink, for stockists visit makoweruk.com

Mila Dungarees, £12.50, shop.tillyandthe buttons.com

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Sh owc ase

R A E W EASY

rT ousers

Stitching advice from Heather Jacks,

Flattering drape with

Your fit Flatter ultimate your curves

SIMPLICITY 8457 SIZES 10-28W, £8.95 Tailor a trouser to your personal shape with this Amazing Fit pattern, offering a choice of cropped or full length leg, a wide waistband and double pleats for a flattering fullness, plus separate pieces for slim, average and curvy figures.

For pleat uniformity and accuracy, aim for the same amount of stitches in each section.

Make sure you under-stitch the pocket facing as this will help to ensure that it doesn’t pop out.

Bear in mind that a tight weave such as gaberdine will have less give than a loose one such as wool crepe.

Keep trying on the garment, particularly as you are putting the waistband together; it’s easier to adjust and correct as you go.

Three-hour make

Easy fit fastenings

NEW LOOK 6271 SIZES 10-22, £6.95 Embrace comfort in style with this long and floaty number.

With minimal pattern pieces and an elasticated drawstring waist, it gives great flexibility for event and silhouette, plus a choice of shorts and a maxi skirt with a contrast hem band.

Always use the adjusting lines provided to lengthen or shorten the leg: never cut off the bottom!

If you opt for more diaphanous or slippery fabric, use weights to keep everything stable whilst you pin your pattern.

Using micro-serrated scissors on silky fabrics will ensure a clean cut, which is essential when matching up your pieces.

Finish seams with either an overlocker or a narrow zigzag stitch, and be sure to press the seams as you go.

patterns are available from all good sewing shops and websites.

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ase owc Sh

“With the three patterns this month, all the bases are covered, including pockets, pleats and turn-ups”

Simplicity brand ambassador

These patterns feature international sizes, which differ from ready-to-wear sizing. It is essential that you take your exact body measurements and compare with the sizing charts on each pattern.

comfy flares Slimming style

Perfect for knits NEW LOOK 1203 SIZES 10-28W, £8.95 Stretch yourself with an interlock trouser and accompanying knit vest top, part of a five-way pattern that flatters plus sizes and creates a streamlined leg. Choose a button-down style with or without contrast lower band, plus a pocket option.

You’ll find a walking foot makes it a lot easier to sew jersey or interlock material; be sure to check presser foot tension.

Use a scrap of fusible interfacing on the back of the side seam allowance at the waist to facilitate elastic insertion.

When putting in the pocket, make sure you feed the fabric carefully to avoid stretching.

Don’t forget to choose the correct needle and remember to use a twin needle for the hemline.

Feeling comfortable is a lifelong mission, and as we acquire confidence with technique we never stop looking for quick pieces that offer versatility of movement and ease of wear. When choosing a trouser pattern, this is doubly important as these garments need to withstand added seam pressure around key areas.

This month’s showcase options flatter slim and curvy figures with a choice of hem widths, details and fastenings, ensuring a comfortable fit for every occasion, from chic office lines to sunshine staples.

All the bases are covered, including pockets, pleats and turn-ups, along with invisible zips and elasticated waistbands. Explore high or low waistlines with Simplicity 8457, wide or narrow shapes in New Look 1203, and a drawstring with New Look 6271. The Amazing Fit option also offers a tutorial to help you. Choose the right fabric for continued comfort – lightweight linen for 8457, two-way stretch for 1203, or soft and silky for 6271.

Have fun applying classic techniques to these flattering fits, and put some wowser in your trouser!

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ST I TC H I N G E S S E N T I A L S

Take a little time to lay your pattern straight on your fabric; measure the grain line arrow at each end to the selvedge, and adjust if necessary. This will help you avoid twist in the leg.

Accurate crotch depth measurement is critical to a comfortable fit so, if in doubt, make a toile up from cheap polycotton; you need just enough fabric as would be required to make the shorts.

It’s always wise to make two rows of stitching through the crotch, with the second row 6mm away from

2

3

the first, to give reinforcement in a key area. Use a stretch stitch to do this as it’s designed for movement.

Correct choice of fabric is important for the overall success of your make, as is the correct weight of interfacing for the waistband. Generally speaking, the lighter the fabric weight is, the finer the interfacing has to be.

Always make a note of your alterations, both written and photographed, and keep this information in the pattern envelope as it will help you when you come to make another pair.

4

5

About our expert...

After winning The Great British Sewing Bee in 2014, lifelong stitcher Heather is passionate about sharing her knowledge, giving regular lectures and workshops nationwide and setting up the Go Sew project to teach children to sew. As well as designing a range of fabrics for the Craft Cotton Company, she loves to accurately interpret patterns to create beautifully crafted garments.

Visit simplicitynewlook.com or call 0161 480 8734 for stockist information. makeittoday.co.uk

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G R EAT FOR B EG INNERS F ROM TI L LY WA L NES, ST RETCH!

EASY KNIT STYLE

Raglan Sweater ESSENTIAL KIT Single knit jersey, 0.75m x 150cm or 1.5m x115cm Contrast single knit, 0.75m for long sleeves or 0.6m for three-quarter length Neckband jersey, 7cm Coordinating thread

CUTTING GUIDE FRONT BODICE: Cut one on fold BACK BODICE: Cut one on fold SLEEVE: Cut two NECKBAND: Cut one on fold Seam allowance 1.5cm, unless otherwise instructed See the measurement guide online for pattern size

Create a classic baseball T-shirt in your favourite jersey

1

the pattern from makeittoday.co.uk. Lay the front bodice and sleeves flat, right sides up, matching the sleeves to the raglan seams.

Flip one sleeve over the bodice, right sides together, then pin the seam; repeat for the other sleeve. Sew or overlock both sleeves to the bodice with a narrow zigzag stitch. Press the allowances towards the sleeve.

2

Place the front bodice right sides uppermost and fold the sleeves away.

Lay the back bodice over one of the sleeves at the seam, right sides together, then pin.

PUT THE NEEDLE ON IT For medium-weight fabrics such as jersey, use a 60/8 or 70/10. You’ll need a ballpoint or stretch twin needle if you want to try twin needle topstitching. Alternatively, you can use a zigzag topstitch. Remember to test your settings on a double scrap of fabric before you sew.

makeittoday.co.uk

Tilly Walnes

Get your groove on with a sporty seventies staple, stitched in a practical, comfortable single knit. Beloved Sewing Bee star Tilly Walnes has fashioned a simple relaxed fit that you can make with just five pattern pieces, giving you a chance to flex your fingers stitching a round neckline, a curved hem, and a choice of full-length or three-quarter raglan sleeves.

Practise fitting adjustments and topstitching whilst you mix and match jersey fabrics for endless sweet sweater satisfaction. Good vibes guaranteed!

Raglan Sweater Download and cut out

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P RO J EC T DESIGNER

Pull the back across to the other sleeve and pin the other seam, right sides together.

Stitch or overlock both sleeves to the bodice, then press the seam allowances. Try the top on, and adjust the seams if needed.

short ends and restitch them closer together, then tack the band to the bodice and sew to the neckline using a 1.5cm seam allowance. Trim the allowances if you didn’t overlock them.

3

6

4

7

Fold the neckband in half widthways, right sides together, then pin the short ends. Sew or overlock the seam, trim the allowances if you didn’t overlock, then press them open. Fold the neckband in half lengthways, wrong sides together, then press the fold.

With the bodice and sleeves laid flat, right sides uppermost, pin both raw edges of the folded neckband to the right side of the bodice neckline, aligning the neck seam line with one of the back raglan seams. You’ll need to stretch the neckband slightly to fit; keep the stretch evenly distributed around the neckline and don’t stretch the bodice neckline.

5

Tack the neckband to the bodice neckline, using a long zigzag stitch and 1cm allowance, then press. If it looks loose, unpick the tacking, cut the neckband near the seam joining the

Press the allowances to the inside of the bodice, then press the band away from the bodice. With the bodice right side up, topstitch the allowances to the bodice, close to the seam line; keep the topstitching an even distance from the neckline seam. Press the neckband, so that if it’s stretched out, it will shrink so it sits flat.

Lay the front bodice over the back, right sides together. Pin the underarm

and side seams, starting where the sleeves meet the bodice, matching the notches and pinning the rest. Sew or overlock in one continuous line from the sleeve hem along the underarm and down the side.

Trim the seam allowances if you didn’t overlock them, then press them open.

8

Overlock the raw edge of the hem and each sleeve.

Fold the bodice hem 2cm to the inside of the garment, press and pin. Topstitch the hem, then fold the hem of each sleeve under to the inside of the top by 2cm, wrong sides together. Press, then pin in place. Topstitch each sleeve hem using a 1.5cm seam allowance, then press the hems to finish.

GREAT FO R B EG I N N E R S FRO M TI L LY WA L N ES , STR ETCH!

D I S COV E R MORE MAKES

© Ellie Smith & Fanni Williams

You’ll find loads more cute knit projects in Tilly and the Buttons: Stretch! by Tilly Walnes (£22.50, Quadrille), hardiegrant.com

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Corinne’s BAG

OF THE MONTH

Patchwork Tote Carry around your essentials in this easy-make number

Get ahead of the curve with a sumptuous roundbottomed bag, complete with comfortable shoulder-length straps. Our designer Corinne brings the X-factor with patchwork pretty style that’s great for busting your scrap stash, although this practical accessory can also be whipped up in simple patterned cotton, too.

P RO J EC T DESIGNER

ESSENTIAL KIT Assorted cotton prints Cotton lining, 75cm 5mm seam allowance used throughout

Patchwork Tote Download and print

1

the template from makeittoday.co.uk. Follow the Make Your Own Patchwork panel (over the page) to create the outer fabric. Cut two bag pieces and two reversed from both the patchwork fabric and lining.

Fold the fabrics, right sides together, at dart E and stitch to point F. Trim away the excess fabric. Place the outers and linings right sides together and sew along the handles from A to B and C to D. Clip the curves, turn the handles right sides out, and press the seams.

2

Open out the lining from the outer and pair up the bag halves, right sides together along the centre seam, matching up the join accurately. Stitch all the way along this seam on one pair but leave a 10cm gap in the

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Corinne Bradd middle of the lining fabric on the other pair.

3

Overlap the raw ends of the handles by 5mm and topstitch down the centre of the overlap. Clip away any loose threads before concertina-folding 1cm of the handle on each side of the seam, over and underneath the join. Topstitch to create the look of a flat-fell seam.

4

Open out the outers from the lining. Pin and stitch the outers together from the base of the handle at C to the other side, matching up the darts and making sure the handles do not get caught up in the seam. Repeat for the linings. Turn the bag out through the gap left in the centre lining seam. Fold in the raw edges of the gap and topstitch closed. Place the lining inside the bag outer.

Press the handle seams neatly and topstitch 2mm from the edge.

GET THE LOOK! Outfit from a selection at Uniqlo, uniqlo.com

M A K E YO U R OW N PATC H WO R K Want to recreate Corinne’s chic accessory?

Cut strips of fabric, 6cm x 16cm, and sew end to end with a 5mm seam allowance.

Stitch the strips together, offsetting the blocks halfway to create a brickwork pattern. Press all the seams to one side before cutting out your bag pattern pieces, then add an extra 1cm seam to ensure that your patchwork is secured together before you sew the pattern pieces together.

FA B R I C

Geometric tribal prints delightfully clash with warm-toned bohemian florals in Art Gallery Fabrics’ Love Story collection – perfect for punchy patchwork! Visit hantex.co.uk/agf for stockist details.

DOWNLOAD THE PATTERN FROM

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Beginnproejrect

SPONSORED BY

BLANKET STITCH THAT’S CHILD’S PLAY

Embroidered Smock

Traditional detail with a sweet stitching embellishment Smocks give kiddie winks plenty of comfort and room, but that shouldn’t mean they can’t look cute as well! This fundamental stitch is a popular decorative embellishment; it’s similar to buttonhole stitch, except the stitches have spaces in between rather than being close together. Simply work across the surface of the fabric, then along the edges, for a simple, striking stitch to rock that smock!

ESSENTIAL KIT Child’s dress with yoke Erasable marker Transfer pencil Embroidery thread Embroidery hoop

Stitched Smock Download the template

1

from makeittoday.co.uk.

If the yoke of the dress is thin enough, tape the paper to a window, place the fabric on top and trace with an erasable pen. For heavier fabrics, trace over the pattern on the wrong side, place on the fabric and press to copy the design. Place a section of fabric in an embroidery hoop.

2

Thread a crewel needle with three strands of red embroidery thread and work

why NOT try?

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blanket stitch around the heart and birds, repositioning the hoop for each area. Bring the needle up through the fabric on the upper line, down on the lower line, a little to the left, then out again on the upper line, directly above, with the needle tip under the loop.

Pull the thread through to form the first stitch, then repeat. Pass the needle through the fabric once on each stitch.

3

For details within the shapes, and to outline leaves on either side, use back stitch or stem stitch. For the line underneath the birds, use running stitch. Add rows of running stitch around the hem of the dress, then work blanket stitch around the edges of the dress, highlighting the straps and neckline.

Normandie by Zweigart

Stitch your dress in a soft cotton and linen fabric to give the embroidery work real pop! High-quality needlework fabric Normandie

by Zweigart, available in white (100) and beige (53), creates a pleasing contrast to cheerful thread colours. zweigart.de

MAKE IT TODAY ISSUE 32_MAKE IT TODAY 22/02/2018 11:27 Page 65

*p066 MAKE IT TODAY CLASSIFIEDS_MAKE IT TODAY 22/02/2018 15:03 Page 66

Make it THE ESSENTIAL AREA DIRECTORY FOR YOUR SEWING NEEDS

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From stretch and rigid allover laces, edging lace, collars and motifs.

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On-line stockists of Liberty Lawns, Liberty Needlecord and Liberty haberdashery plus designer dressmaking patterns.

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today!

Beginnproejrect

KEEP IT SIMPLE

Tulip Tunic Perfect to slip on in warmer weather

It’s time to rejoice! We’re approaching that season where we can take off our jumpers and embrace cropped sleeves and shorter lengths. Of course, this calls for a brand-new top in your handmade wardrobe, and we simply adore Amanda Walker’s design, which consists of just four pattern pieces. Featuring pleats below the bust and a figure-shaping tulip hem, this is a simple tunic to make with plenty of detail. Pair it with jeans and a statement necklace for evening attire, or keep it simple with leggings for daytime chic.

Amanda Walker

DOWNLOAD THE PATTERN FROM

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Beginnproejrect

ESSENTIAL KIT

CUTTING GUIDE FRONT: Cut one on fold BACK: Cut one pair BIB: Cut two on fold SLEEVE: Cut one pair BACK NECK BINDING: Cut a bias strip, 4cm x 35cm Use 1.5cm seam allowances throughout

and pin the base to the front gathered area, then stitch between the small dots.

Pivot the bib on the cut corner, then pin and sew up to the shoulder edge. Repeat on the remaining side.

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Match the shoulder edges of the front and back.

The front shoulders will be 1.5cm longer than the back.

Pin the back to the front, leaving the 1.5cm protruding from the front neck edge.

Stitch the shoulder seams, then neaten and press towards the front. With right sides together, match the neckline of the remaining bib to the stitched one and sew.

Turn the bib to the inside of the tunic, then tease out the seam allowance and press flat.

4 Tulip Tunic Download and cut

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out the pattern at makeittoday.co.uk. Fold and press in 1cm on either side of the bias strip, then position one side around one of the back necklines. Pin, then stitch along the fold line. Turn the strip over onto the wrong side of the neckline and position the remaining folded edge over the stitching line.

Pin and edgestitch in place, sandwiching the raw edge inside the bias binding. Trim any excess, then repeat on the back.

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Make two cuts towards the small dots indicated on the front pattern piece. Sew two rows of gathering stitches within the seam allowance.

Pull up the threads and distribute the gathers evenly to fit the base of the bib. With right sides together, position

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Press in the seam allowance on all the edges of the inner bib. Pin along the stitching line of the front bib, so the fold line is just covering the stitching. From the right side, edgestitch around the three sides so the inner bib is caught as you sew.

Slip-stitch the two areas across the shoulders, then neaten the side edges. Match the side seams together, pin, then sew and press open.

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Neaten the underarm edges of the sleeves. Sew a row of gathering stitches around the head of the sleeves starting from the front notch and finishing at the back.

Pin and stitch the underarm sleeve seams, right sides together. Press open, then turn out. Pull the gathering threads up slightly and place the sleeve into the armhole of the tunic.

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Match the side and underarm seams of the sleeve. Position the notch in the centre of the sleeve to the one at the end of the shoulder seam, then adjust the gathers to fit the armhole.

GET THE LOOK! Necklace, ÂŁ18.50 Wallis at debenhams.com

Fabric, 2.4m x 112cm Concealed zip, 22in Coordinating thread

Beginnproejrect FA B R I C

Kokka Navy Weave Print

Constructed from a woven cotton and linen blend, this fabric features a weave print and is wonderful for creating contemporary tops and dresses. ÂŁ16 per metre, johnlewis.com

Pin and sew in place. Neaten the seam allowances around the armhole. Fold and press in 1cm, then another 2cm around the base of the sleeves. Pin and edgestitch in place.

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Lay the centre back seam as far as the zip notch and stitch from the base of the tunic up to this point. Sew the concealed zip into the back opening, then fold and press the seam allowance along the two sides. With right sides together, open out and place face down, then pin. If using a concealed zipper, leave 3cm of the base unstitched.

Backstitch, then sew the other side. Thread the zip pull through to the right side at the top of the centre back seam and close.

8

Fold the pleats into the base of the tunic on both the back and front, then stitch 10cm up into the pleat. Centre them over the stitching lines and press flat to form small inverted pleats. Fold and press in 1cm, then another 2cm around the base of the tunic. Pin and edgestitch the hem in place.

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THE PRACTICALS

We’d all love to have that particular shape that’s completely in tune with the pattern envelope of our dreams.

You know the one we mean: every dart working in harmony with our curves, every notch and circle combining to describe our unique shape. But here in the real world, sooner or later we all have to face the inevitable and start deconstructing those sacred tissue pieces. If you’re contemplating some changes, don’t panic – dressmaking is about making these patterns work for you, not the other way round.

To help you switch it up in style, Tilly Walnes explains the essential adjustments and points out, with the help of her Martha Dress pattern, how to get started. Meanwhile, designer Jennifer Lauren uses her Bronte Top to guide you through the process of adapting a bodice pattern piece, while Amanda Bowden shows you how to adapt your favourite vintage patterns by perfecting the core skill of tracing off. Follow our lead and take it from us, a change is as good as a rest.

Work those skills!

PRACTISE THE TECHNIQUES DEMONSTRATED HERE WITH ONE OF OUR FREE-TO-DOWNLOAD PROJECTS, AVAILABLE AT MAKEITTODAY.CO.UK

DRAPED TOP EVE RYDAY TEE Fix excess pooling with a back t -prin duo a of th leng Adapt the or bodice adjustment staple to create a shift

PAR ISIE NNE TUN IC Loosen a fitted hemline for a gently flared adaptation

SWITCH IT UP: QUICK ADJUSTMENTS TO YOUR PROJECTS

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How It Works: Exposed Zips AMANDA BOWDEN EXPLAINS HOW TO ADAPT VINTAGE PAT TERNS GET TO GRIPS WITH THE KEY SKILL OF TRACING OFF

ALL CHANGE: TILLY’S MARTHA PATTERN CAN BE ADAPTED EASILY

© Fanni Williams

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TILLY WALNES EXPLORES CORE AREAS FOR PATTERN ADJUSTMENT

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VISIT FELIXSTOWESEWINGSCHOOL.CO.UK FOR MORE TOP TIPS

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Drag lines, tightness or rippling at the bust may indicate that the curve going over your bust is too long. If so, pinch away the excess fabric horizontally and cut this off the corresponding pattern pieces. If it is too short, causing drag lines, slash the bodice open horizontally, patching it up with extra fabric, and cutting and adding paper to your pattern pieces to match.

If you have wide or narrow shoulders, adjust the shoulder seams on the pattern so the sleeve starts at the point where you feel the socket move. Move the armhole end of the shoulder seam line in or out, then re-draw the armhole curve to meet this point, making sure the corner is a right angle.

VISIT TILLYANDTHEBUTTONS.COM FOR FULL ADJUSTMENT GUIDES

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Tracing off a vintage pattern will preserve the pattern and give you more robust version for alterations. Rather than pin the original to the new paper, use dress weights and a pencil or tracing wheel to mark the edge.

Large perforations or marks should indicate the grain line of the pattern piece. Refer back to the instruction layout and draw the grain line so it is clear.

Seam allowances differ between manufacturers on vintage patterns, so refer to the instructions and either write the seam allowance on the pattern piece or, better still, use a ruler to draw in the stitching lines.

These can often differ on vintage patterns, so be cautious around necklines and armholes, as smaller seam allowances are often used at these points.

It’s also extremely helpful to draw in the placement of pockets, as well as any areas that require easing, the dart ‘heads and legs’, and zip/placket positions, whether the piece requires interfacing, and where garments need to be cut on the fold. You will find it also helps to make a toile of the garment to test for fit before cutting into the fashion fabric.

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FINESSE THOSE SEAMS, CONTOURS, HEM LENGTHS OR WAISTLINES WITH CONFIDENCE “We’re all looking for that beautiful fit and, while the Martha dress has a fitted bodice, all our bodies are different shapes. This is one of those patterns where it’s definitely worth considering some useful fitting alterations. Here I’ll outline some of the main adjustments you can make on your pattern tissue in conjunction with a toile, giving you an opportunity to adjust fit according to your shape, before you cut into your nice fabric. Come on, let’s make that change!”

If you have a long or short torso, use the ‘lengthen or shorten here’ lines on the bodice pieces. If you want to shorten a skirt without losing fullness, or lengthen a knee-length option without making the panels too flared, you can use these same lines on the skirt pieces instead of adding or removing at the hem.

Seam panels too loose or tight? The princess seam panels on the bodice make it easy to fit, as you can pin them in or add extra fabric as needed. Try the bodice on, and pin out any excess. If it feels tight at the sides or princess seams, unpick and add in extra fabric. Transfer the changes to your pattern: redraw the seams, using the pins as a guide for stitching lines and adding 1.5cm allowance.

If you have a particularly curved lower back, you may notice excess fabric pooling at your back waist. This is easily removed by pinning out the extra material on your toile, measuring how much you’ve pinned out and trimming this off the back bodice pattern pieces accordingly.

“If you have ever picked up an old vintage pattern, you might be surprised at how the pieces look. Patterns were usually bought according to a lady’s bust size, and only one size was contained per packet, with any design variations kept to a minimum. There were also a lot of assumptions made by the manufacturer: the home dressmaker would be expected to make their own facing patterns, know how to create a placket and also how to grade. You can certainly use a vintage pattern to recreate the fashions of the past, but it requires a bit of careful preparation first.”

Style Challenge: A D J U ST A B O D I C E JENNIFER LAUREN ON THE LONG AND SHORT OF THIS KEY PATTERN ALTERATION 1

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“Lengthening or shortening a bodice is an easy flat pattern technique that can teach you a lot about construction and your shape, and really set you on your way towards having more confidence originating your own creations. We’re using my Bronte Top here as an example, but this method is the same for any pattern you wish to alter. This knit top pattern includes a lapped shoulder and neckline detail, with the back pattern piece sweeping over the shoulder. However, although it has these design elements, it is reasonably easy to adapt the pattern at the early stages with a ruler, scissors, tape and extra paper.”

1

Cut out your size from the pattern. On the front bodice piece, locate the ‘Lengthen/ Shorten’ line and cut along it. To lengthen the pattern piece, take your extra sheet of paper and draw a straight line down one side. Place the extra paper underneath the top of the separated piece, lining up the straight line you drew with the ‘Place on Fold’ of the pattern piece, then tape in place.

From the bottom of the taped pattern piece, measure out and mark the extra length you’re after – here, we’re adding 5cm.

Draw this line in, then match up your bottom pattern piece with the line you just drew and the ‘Fold Line’ of your pattern piece, and tape in place.

Correct or ‘true up’ any sections of the pattern that need it (for Bronte, you’ll need to re-draw in a small section of the waist at the side). You can either use a ruler or go free hand for this. Remember to trim any excess paper, and then repeat for the back bodice.

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VISIT JENNIFERLAURENVINTAGE.COM FOR CORE PATTERN TUTORIALS

EDITOR: Sarah Crosland sarah.crosland@aceville.co.uk DEPUTY EDITOR: Janey Goulding jane.goulding@aceville.co.uk CONTRIBUTING EDITOR: Lucy Jobber REGULARS EDITOR: Elena Thompson GROUP EDITOR: Lynn Martin lynn.martin@aceville.co.uk ART DIRECTOR: Sarah Mayes DESIGNERS: Charlotte Weatherley, Clare Brasier MODELS: Louise D (Gingersnap) Rachel Haddon (Nevs Models) Kelsey (Nevs Models) STYLIST: Boo Hill HAIR AND MAKE-UP: Dottie Monaghan PHOTOGRAPHY: CliQQ 01206 855477, cliqq.co.uk 1 PHOENIX COURT, HAWKINS ROAD, COLCHESTER, ESSEX CO2 8JY

Class Act CHANGE THINGS UP WITH THE BEST SUPPORT POSSIBLE If you’ve mastered the dressmaking basics and are looking for some straightforward ways to improve the figure-flattering potential of a pattern, this workshop will show you how it’s done. Perfect Fit: Adjusting Sewing Patterns helps you alter the foundations of any design, and it’s ideal if you can sew simple garments but often struggle with achieving a good fit on your projects. If you have a fuller or smaller bust, full thighs, a broad back or narrow shoulders, this Cambridgeshire-based class is a quick way to address some of the core adjustments you can master in order to fine-tune any pattern to your particular needs, and all with tea and cake! Saturday 22nd September 2018, £60, stitchstudio.co.uk

PUBLISHING PUBLISHING DIRECTOR: Helen Tudor SUBSCRIPTION ENQUIRIES: 0330 333 0042 makeittoday@servicehelpline.co.uk MARKETING MANAGER: Andrea Turner, 01206 505961 andrea.turner@aceville.co.uk SENIOR BUYER: Jodie Lee, 01206 506250 jodie.lee@aceville.co.uk HEAD OF ADVERTISING: Martin Lack, 01206 505940 martin.lack@aceville.co.uk GROUP ADVERTISING MANAGER: Samantha Kirby, 01206 505425 samantha.kirby@aceville.co.uk NEWSTRADE SALES: Marketforce 0203 148 3300

Make it Today! is published by Aceville Publications Limited. Co. 21/23 Phoenix Court, Hawkins Road, Colchester, Essex CO2 8JY. Printed in the UK by William Gibbons. All rights reserved.

Garments, projects and accessories made from designs in Make it Today! are for personal use only and cannot be sold. Multiple copies of any part of this publication may not be made, and no part of this publication whether in its original form or a reproduction thereof may be sold.

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ervi ew I nt

“I saw a chance to create patterns that were fashionable and functional” Activewear specialist Melissa Fehr on her extraordinary athletic output, overcoming illness and living on a boat

Maker Profile DESCRIBE YOUR CREATIVE SPACE? Small, cosy, organised and free from distractions.

WHAT’S YOUR EARLIEST SEWING MEMORY? My mum making me a Halloween costume I’d dreamed up, including a pink zipper.

MOST AMUSING FASHION FAUX PAS? In last year’s London marathon, I included five big pockets in my shorts: all the gels, phone and battery pulled them down as I ran!

WHICH PIECE OF MUSIC BEST SUMS YOU UP? Galvanize by The Chemical Brothers!

BEST ADVICE YOU EVER RECEIVED? Nothing’s as bad as you imagine it will be (given by a patient at the start of my treatment).

HOW WOULD YOUR BEST FRIEND DESCRIBE YOU? Insanely hard working and busy, but the best partner in crime a girl could want.

IF YOU WERE A PIECE OF FABRIC, WHAT WOULD YOU BE? Definitely flexible and adaptable!

HOW WOULD YOU BEST LIKE TO BE REMEMBERED? As someone who cared.

HOW DID YOU DEVELOP YOUR PASSION FOR ACTIVEWEAR?

After I was made redundant from my tech job in 2013, I wanted to try something new. I’d been making my own activewear, and digital sewing patterns seemed a natural move.

There were a few basic activewear designs out there, but I saw a huge opportunity to create patterns with great lines that looked fashionable and functional. It was important for me to road-test every pattern I made: I’m proud to say I’ve run all seven of my marathons in self-sewn gear.

WHAT ARE THE CHALLENGES IN PRODUCING PATTERNS FOR ACTIVEWEAR?

The single biggest difference from casual or formal wear is movement! All the patterns out there assume everyone stands still with their arms down all day. In reality, we’re constantly in motion – walking, sitting, reaching, jumping, twisting! Making sportsspecific patterns means breaking down the shape the body makes, the range of motion the limbs go through, and the repetition and contact that might occur, then designing the clothing to adapt to this.

IN WHAT OTHER WAYS DOES YOUR LOVE FOR SPORTS INFORM YOUR WORK ETHIC?

Going for a run in the morning gives me more hours in the day; I’m calmer, more focused and get more done if I go out on the road first.

I also tend to solve a lot of problems while running. Cycling is the quickest and cheapest way for me to travel to my office job and get around town, but I don’t love it in the same way as running. I also enjoy bouldering when I get the chance; a friend calls it ‘danger Pilates’, but it’s really just solving puzzles with your hands and feet!

WHICH OTHER DRESSMAKING INTERESTS DO YOU HAVE?

As well as sewing all my own jeans for over 10 years, I made my wedding dress, refashioned from my grandmother’s 1949 gown. Over the years, I’ve sewn everything from bras to fur coats to leather handbags, and I recently made my first pair of shoes. Last spring, I started making my own socks, too. There’s not much I haven’t sewn: all I really wish for is more time!

My To Sew list is far longer than the days allow and I’d just love to spend more time creating.

TELL US ABOUT YOUR LIFE ON THE THAMES?

My husband James and I bought a huge, rusty Dutch barge called Hendrik about 11 years ago, which in a former life had been a floating canoeing hotel. We spent nine years on the Thames at Tower Bridge, but we moved to west London in 2016 and have no immediate plans to move. In the long term, though, we’d like to get our careers location-independent, so we’d have the freedom to take the boat through France, Belgium or Germany and beyond while we work.

HOW HAS YOUR BONE MARROW TRANSPLANT AFFECTED YOUR PURSUITS?

When I fell ill in 2008, I was the fittest person: you know, the girl who’s always at the gym and eats organic! It was frustrating to go from that to not being able to walk up stairs within weeks, jealous whenever a runner went past.

I knew my hair would grow back, but rebuilding my strength took longer. Now I have more patience, but I also try to do way too much, so I’m constantly disappointed if I only achieve 10 things instead of the 20 in my head.

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Reader offer Sew Your Own Activewear just £11.99 quoting MIT118 at 01206 255777

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