W NE OK! LO
STEP-BY-STEP GUIDES QUICK MAKES FOR MOTHER′S DAY
INSPIRING ISSUE 18
BRIGHT IDEAS
Make our kitty bag tonight!
to stitch & share Pretty Liberty pillow Tilly′s guide to jersey Gift ideas for gardeners Flattering skirt in sizes 6-20
Stash-busting cushion
Sweet & simple tea cosy SN18.P01 v3.indd 1
Your 5-in-1 pattern
ISSUE 18 UK £9.99 www.sewnowmag.co.uk
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COLLECT THEM ALL TO CATER FOR EVERY SEASON!
BRAND NEW EMBROIDERY TRANSFER SHEETS
AVAILABLE NOW!
Each set includes six reusable transfer sheets featuring sentiments, embellishments, borders, an alphabet, plus an embroidery stitch guide!
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WELCOME
Hello
58
With spring just around the corner we’ve got a bumper pattern issue for you packed with gorgeous fabric inspiration for your spring wardrobe, alongside plenty of quick-and-easy projects for your family and home. With no less than �ve garments, your free McCall’s 7122 pattern (page 10) o�ers something for every occasion you can think of. With simple day dresses featuring a variety of hem and sleeve lengths, an essential tunic and even leggings, we’re de�nitely making this our go-to spring pattern. Stride into the new season with a modern classic and sew with your free Simple Sew Palazzo Trousers pattern (page 18) in your favourite fabric. Easy to �t and simple to sew, they’re ideal for a beginner and great for the holidays ahead.
44 18
After the dreary winter months we’re helping you �ll your home with cheerful, upbeat colours – try your hand at our Liberty lace pillowcases (page 54), Rainbow Hex cushion (page 40) or Busy Beehive tea cosy (page 24). And as the sun starts to warm us, why not combine your hobbies and make our superuseful Get Gardening set (page 27) that will make being outdoors even more enjoyable? As always, Sew Now is full of tips and techniques to improve your sewing, the latest news and patterns and plenty of prizes to win!
Sam
Editor sam.sterken@practicalpublishing.co.uk P.S. We love to see what you’ve been making so don’t forget to share your makes using #sewnowmag on social media
SHARE YOUR THOUGHTS
We’d love to hear your thoughts about Sew Now. Find and follow us on:
www.facebook.com/sewnowmag www.twitter.com/sewnowmag
www.instagram.com/sewnowmag www.pinterest.com/sewnowmag
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INSIDE THIS ISSUE OF
34 14
Get your next 3 issues for JUST £12 Turn to page 22 for details of how to subscribe!
INSPIRATION
REGULARS
13
6 61 66
NEWS What’s new in sewing SEWING WORKSHOPS Learn new skills and make new friends
5 MINUTES WITH… We speak to Celia Banks about her amazing sewing career
TUTORIALS
14 38
TILLY’S TOP TIPS FOR JERSEY Tilly Walnes shares her tops tips
SEWING FOR CURVACEOUS FIGURES Wendy Gardiner provides expert advice for sewing plus-size patterns
57 www.facebook.com/sewnowmag
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62
MASTER YOUR MACHINE Find out what all the buttons mean
www.twitter.com/sewnowmag
WEAR IT WITH Make the most of your free pattern with our how-to-wear inspiration
17
CHERRY-PICKED FABRIC Fabric picks from two suppliers in the know
20
WEAR THE TROUSERS Create trousers worth talking about with our top fabric choices
53
CREPE DE LA CRÈME Stock up on some gorgeous crepe fabric from Minerva Crafts
57
MUM’S THE WORD We pick out the perfect gifts for Mother’s Day
www.instagram.com/sewnowmag
www.pinterest.com/sewnowmag
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CONTENTS
24
MEET THE TEAM: Editor
Sam
40
PROJECTS
Editorial Assistant Stylist
10
FREE TUNIC, DRESS AND LEGGINGS PATTERN Tips for styling and sewing your free pattern
18
FREE TROUSERS PATTERN Your guide to creating �oaty, easy-to-wear trousers
Lorna Seamstress
24
BUSY BEE TEA COSY Create a buzz at breakfast with this fun tea cosy
27
GET GARDENING PLANTING SET Kick-start your spring gardening with these lovely accessories
Jeanette
34
HI-LO POCKET TOP Master the simple and chic look with this pretty top
Photographer
40
RAINBOW HEX CUSHION Add a pop of colour with a fun unicorn and rainbow cushion
54
44
CLAMSHELL CLUTCH BAG Get carried away by this stylish Minaudière clutch
54
LACE TRIM PILLOWCASES Rest easy with these gorgeous silk- lawn cushions
58
BUTTON-DOWN PENCIL SKIRT We show you how to create a staple panelled skirt
Exclusive discounts! 50 Enjoy our fantastic discounts and giveaways, including 20% o� at Dragon�y Fabrics and 10% o� at Alice Caroline 53 SAVE 20% on crepe fabric at Minerva Crafts
50
Renata SKILL LEVEL GUIDE Beginner Adventurous beginner Intermediate Advanced
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What’s
new?
The patterns, events and sewing goodies on our radar this month A LIT TLE B I RD TOLD M E …
We were delighted to discover that the newest collection of fabric, adapted from the beautifully stylised wildlife prints of Charley Harper, has taken �ight. This stunning new collection entitled ‘Bird architects’ brings to life Harper’s 1959 artwork, which casts an intricate focus on the architectural endeavours of birds. The colourful and modest depictions of wildlife showcase some of illustrator’s most exquisite work and are an absolute must for any sewist’s fabric stash. Fabric is 100% organic cotton and available at a variety of stores including www.misformake.co.uk and www.etsy.com.
Learning zone Expand your creative skills with our pick of workshops Introduction to crochet at Ministry of Craft If you’re looking to learn to crochet but don’t know how to get started then look no further. This Introduction to Crochet workshop is the perfect initiation to this addictive craft! It's ideal for beginners or those that just need a gentle reminder and you’ll learn several crochet stitches and techniques – before you know it you’ll be hooked!
Learn with
Hi! I’m the Sew Now editorial assistant, Lorna. I absolutely love working for Sew Now but I am relatively new to the world of sewing and eager to learn more about dressmaking. So, to make sure my sewing skills are top notch, I have decided to embark on a dressmaking course. Every issue I will be telling you lovely readers what I’ve been sewing and o�ering some useful hints and tips that I have picked up along the way – stayed tuned!
Week 1: Worth the weight
I hope to evoke a collective nod of agreement when I say I really underestimated the importance of fabric weights. Despite turning up to my �rst lesson with buckets of enthusiasm Polymer clay rainbow cake pattern weights, and a neatly folded £17 www.etsy.com bundle of fabric, I soon realised the importance of sewing tools and which ones are indispensable, no matter the project. Our �rst task this week was to measure and cut the fabric for a reversible bag. My lovely co-sewists let me borrow some fabric chalk, a tape measure and scissors, however, I soon realised holding fabric in place with your free arm doesn’t quite cut it. Of course, cans of soup can work a Trimits pineapple weights are available treat but if you want some nationwide from sewing and craft shops pretty and practical sewing weights, here are my top picks. Donut pattern weights, £26.99 www.etsy.com
DATE: Sat 14th April 2018, 10.30am – 1pm VENUE: Fred Aldous, 37 Lever Street , Manchester M1 1LW COST: £32.50
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NEWS
pattern picks
What you’ve been
sewing... Each month’s star make will receive a bundle of fabric, handpicked by Mark at Girl Charlee
£25 WIN A
FABRIC BUNDLE FROM
Catherine Haslam Catherine made this lovely baby bib from issue 16, she said: “I have a new baby nephew, so with some fat quarter fabric and some flannel for an inside layer, I started my first ever sewing project on New Year’s Eve. I’m thrilled with how it turned out, the instructions in the magazine were really clear, and I can’t wait to complete my next make – the circular cushion from the same issue is next on my machine, but I’m sure I’ll be asked to make more of these bibs!” Add a touch of glamour to your wardrobe with this elegant maxi skirt from Just Patterns. Suitable for more experienced sewists, this pattern can be adapted for a smart or casual look and it is recommended you use light to mid-weight woven fabric with drape such as silk, wool crepe, linen twill or rayon. This sewing pattern is available in sizes 34 to 46 and is priced at £6.23. Visit www.just-patterns.com for more information.
Say hello to this cosy oversized sweater from new indie pattern company Pipe Dream Patterns. The design features simple lines so it is easily achievable for beginner sewists and is a great staple loungewear piece. The PDF pattern is priced at £8.50 and available at www.pipedreampatterns.co.uk Master the simple and chic look with this lovely Leschi blouse from Straight Stitch Designs. The top features a deep V-neck collar, ¾ length sleeves and a stylish high-lo hem. Available in a range of sizes, in paper and PDF format, this is the perfect project for experimenting with style and fabric. Priced at $12 (approximately £8.60) from www.straight stitchdesigns.com
STAR MAKE
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Every month Laura Victoria shares what’s been going on with the #SewMyStyle project
Laura
This year I’ve joined the team of international sewing bloggers leading #SewMyStyle for 2018, headed up by team leader Jessica Lorraine. Using 2017’s feedback, we have put together a varied schedule for anyone wanting to add a range of versatile patterns to their handmade wardrobe. Each month’s pattern comes with a discount, and if you liked the monthly #wardrobebuilder giveaways, you’ll love the participant prizes for this project! The Sunny dress/top
The first project on the schedule was the Sunny dress and top by Friday Patterns. It was our pick to start with because it creates modern, minimalist patterns that are easy to sew and donates 5% of its sales to charity. The Sunny is a simple knit dress and top, with a scalloped hem and sleeves. There have been a few hacks popping up with interesting tweaks like contrasting bands, rolled up cuffs, maxi-length skirts and sleeveless Rumana coat versions. A lot of advice and inspiration is coming through on the #SewMyStyle 2018 VIP Facebook group, so if you have a question on any of the projects, head over there.
Ponte Jacket
What I love about the Sunny is that it’s one of those patterns that you can really go to town on with prints. Inspired by Pantone’s Ultra Violet Colour of the Year I went for a solid plum, but there have been stripes, leopard, squids…basically any excuse for finally being able to use that Art Gallery knit that we’ve been lusting after!
Best wardrobe basic The classic tee is an absolute must for your spring/summer wardrobe. This woven T-shirt with capped sleeves and scoop neck is a perfect project for beginner sewists and is a great opportunity to practise bias binding, setting sleeves and basic hemming. Visit www.grainlinestudio. com for more information.
A C C E S S O R I E S
P R E T T Y PA S T E L S Complete your spring wardrobe with these pretty pastel accessories
Scarf, £32 www.oliver bonas.co.uk
Necklace, www.primark.com
Beret, £12 uk.accessorize.com
Pouch, £19.50 www.oliverbonas.co.uk
Next on the schedule is a double feature; the By Hand London Rumana coat and the Style Arc Estelle Ponte jacket. You can still sign up and receive codes for the rest of the year’s projects over on www. jessicalorraine.com. Tag your makes on Instagram with #SewMyStyle2018 and show us what you’ve been making! Earrings, www.debenhams.com
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Floral shoes, £19.99 www.deichmann.com
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NEWS
Crafty Sew & So
SHOP OF THE MONTH
Sarah and Freya
This month we speak to Freya at Crafty Sew & So in Leicester. This independent shop stocks a fabulous selection of carefully curated fabric, haberdashery, independent patterns, kits and gifts and hosts a range of sewing workshops Hi there! How are you and what are you up to at the shop today?
We’re very well, thank you! Today, as every day, I'll be welcoming customers into our world of beautiful fabric and helping them find everything they need for their next sewing projects. Sarah is making samples of our new Action Pack athleisure garments following the successful launch party for our own range of ‘My Handmade Wardrobe’ dressmaking patterns.
Tell us a bit about how you came to own your own shop
In 2014 I attended one of Sarah’s dressmaking workshops and we shared the ambition to own a sewing shop and to share our love of sewing through workshops. I have a background in retail and Sarah has a degree in Fashion Design. With heaps of help and support from our friends and families, we opened the Crafty Sew & So shop in the centre of Leicester in 2015 and now we look forward to coming to work, running workshops and selling all things sewing related, with the help of our small but growing team.
Which sewing machine would you recommend for a beginner, or an experienced sewist?
We love the range of machines Brother make and use them in our in-store workshops. The Innov-is
15 is perfect for beginners, it’s easy to use and has some really great features. For more experienced sewists, the Innov-is F420 or 1300 are fantastic. They have strong feed dogs which make sewing a dream and allow you to sew through anything!
Is there anything new or exciting coming up that you’d like to tell our readers about?
We are most excited about our new pattern brand, ‘My Handmade Wardrobe’ that we launched with four patterns just last month! Later this year we’re planning to add more patterns to our range. We are working hard to bring something
new to the independent pattern market, with a focus on wardrobe staples to help our customers create a wardrobe that is unique and easy to wear. Visit Crafty Sew & So at St. Martins Square, Leicester Email: info@craftysewandso.com Telephone: 0116 319 6930
IN OUR GOOD BOOKS SEW... The GarmentMaking Book of Knowledge by Barbara Emodi (Search Press, £24.99). In this new book from sewing instructor and blogger Barbara Emodi, you will find an abundance of useful hints and tips to help get your sewing journey off on the right foot, and refine your skills. With a wealth of experience in garment making, Barbara offers sage advice on a variety of topics, from basic but essential techniques, as well as the overall benefits of sewing. Be sure to grab yourself a copy when it’s released in May!
Practice your handsewing skills with this lovely collection of embroidery projects. Stitch & Sew: Beautifully Embroider 31 Projects by Aneela Hoey (C&T Publishing, £22.99) features 31 beautiful designs to help you hone your needlework skills and create a variety of accessories including a drawstring bag, clutch, flex case, change purse, and zipper pouch. Perfect for beginner to advanced crafters, each project will help you experiment with different threads and colours.
Bring a bit of Scandinavian spring into your home with this lovely new pattern book from renowned designer Tone Finnanger. Taken from the Tilda spring collection, Tilda Sunshine Sewing (SewandSo) features a variety of vibrant projects including two full-size quilts, pillows, soft toys and fabric bowls. All 12 projects are themed around the summer coast and countryside, with motifs of lemons, fruit trees, birds, octopuses, mermaids, jellyfish, narwhals, starfish and more.
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YOUR
FREE PATTERN
FOR MORE TIPS ON SEWING JERSEY SEE TILLY’S ADVICE ON PAGE 14
Take
FIVE
Crescent cross-body bag £69, www.marks andspencer.com
Update your wardrobe using these versatile patterns, perfect for activewear as well as days out! Photography RENATA STONYTE Model CHARLOTTE for BOSS Hair and make-up NINA ROCHFORD for CREATIVES
Get the look
Idle Wild Knits by Riley Blake Triangles in Blue
Colourful and bright, this 112cmwide 100% cotton geometric print is perfect for adults and children alike! £18 per metre
www.simplysolids.co.uk
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Hope Mimosa yellow mid-heel courts £98, www.boden.co.uk
Charlotte is 5’ 8” and a dress size 10
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All events
covered!
Your free pattern is suitable for everything from a knockout summer dress to a new yoga kit – the possibilities are endless! DON’T FORGET YOU CAN MIX AND MATCH THE LENGTH AND SLEEVE CHOICE TO SUIT THE SEASON OR OCCASION!
Spring into action!
Why not use your free M7122 tunic, dresses and leggings patterns to sew your own activewear? The tunic top has hems vents on the seams, making it suitable for yoga or gym workouts, and the leggings have just one pattern piece and no side seams. Try sewing with sports fabric such as Lycra or Spandex activewear. Available at www.ukfabricsonline.com and www.sewingchest.co.uk. If you’d prefer to stick to jersey, pick a contrasting fabric for the sleeves to create a sporty look.
Try this Disco Lights
Available in two di�erent base weights, this bold printed polyester/Lycra mix stretch fabric is sure to get you noticed! £18 per metre
www.funkifabrics.com
Bind it!
If you �nd making your own jersey bias tape a little daunting, Minerva Crafts’s luxury stretch satin bias binding tape is a great way to �nish your dress neckline. By using a stretch stitch on your machine, the binding will stretch with your fabric and won’t be restrictive when pulling the garment on or o�. A gem of a �nd for dressmakers, the binding is available in a wide range of colours and the satin �nish will add an extra-special touch to your dress.
Try this Luxury stretch satin bias binding tape
This is a great way to �nish a garment £3.19 per metre www.minerva crafts.com
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INSPIRATION
Wear it with... Complement your free dress pattern with finds from some of our favourite high-street stores
Scarf, £24
Satchel, £179
OLIVER BONAS
HOBBS
www.oliverbonas.com Pouch, £19.50
www.hobbs.co.uk Trench coat, £269
Bag, £149 Earrings, £18
Sandals, £65
Mules, £139
Earrings, £12 Double-breasted blazer, £38
Sunglasses, £15
ACCESSORIZE
uk.accessorize.com
Cross-body bag, £22
DOROTHY PERKINS www.dorothyperkins.com
Earrings, £10
Heeled mules, £27
Tassel bucket bag, £22
Mini handle bag, £30
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Tilly’s top tips for
jersey
Sew a Bibi pinafore in Ponte Roma
Sewing stretch fabric can be a breeze with just a little know-how and the right tools. We asked Tilly Walnes for her top tips for sewing jersey
Tilly
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About the book Toppling the myth that jersey is hard to sew, Tilly’s new book Tilly and the Buttons: Stretch! is perfect for those wishing to take the next steps on their sewing journey. Crammed with easyto-follow photo step-by-step guides, patterns, inspiration and customisation ideas, this book will have you sewing stretch with confidence in no time. WHAT WILL YOU LEARN? Everything from which fabric to buy to testing for stretch, cutting with confidence and preparing fabric ready for sewing is covered. Whether you’ll be sewing stretch fabric on a regular sewing machine or using an overlocker, you’ll be able to get the best out of your machine. WHAT ABOUT PATTERNS? Tilly has your stretch wardrobe covered! The patterns range from basics such as rollnecks and joggers through to glamorous dresses and they come with a range of top tips and customisation ideas such as cool appliqué and alternative necklines. The Freya Sweater Dress is our favourite for its versatility and fun-filled options! WILL IT INSPIRE ME? With Tilly’s gorgeous imagery, clear step by steps and smiling faces, this book can’t help but make you want to sew stretch.
INSPIRATION Add a frill to the superversatile Freya sweater dress
1
You don’t need an overlocker to sew jersey – you can use the zigzag stitch on your regular sewing machine. This will allow the garment to stretch without the stitching popping. I use a narrow zigzag to join seams (1.5mm wide x 2.5mm long), and an even zigzag for topstitching (2.5mm x 2.5mm).
2
When choosing jersey fabric, stretch it along the crosswise grain and see how easily it pings back down to its original size. If the fabric stays stretched out, you may end up with rippled seams and saggy shoulders – avoid! If it recovers well, your garment is less likely to stretch out during sewing and wear – buy it!
Try satin ribbon instead of stay tape
4
To prevent wavy-looking seams, reduce the presser foot pressure (see your sewing machine manual), and invest in a walking foot or dual feed foot attachment. These will help feed both layers of fabric through the machine at the same speed so one doesn’t stretch out and cause rippling.
3
Stabilise seams that could otherwise stretch out over time, such as shoulders and pocket openings. I like to use woven satin ribbon instead of stay tape, as it’s easy to come by, comes in pretty colours and does the job just as well. Zigzag stitch it just inside the seam allowance before joining the seams.
5
Jersey is much easier to fit than woven fabric thanks to the stretch – hooray! Tack the seams before stitching so you can try your project on and adjust if you prefer a closer or looser fit. Do this each time you sew up the same pattern, as the amount of stretch in fabric will varies so the same pattern can feel tighter or looser.
Clash colours with the everyday Frankie top
Tilly and the Buttons: Stretch! by Tilly Walnes (Quadrille £22.50) Photography: Ellie Smith & Fanni Williams
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INSPIRATION
Cherry-picked FABRIC We asked two of our fabric suppliers to pick their favourite prints for spring FABRIC GODMOTHER
Josie
This online fabric shop stocks a wide range of beautiful dressmaking fabric and sewing patterns, specially selected to enhance Fabric Godmother's reputation for style and quality at great prices. www.fabricgodmother.co.uk
ABAKHAN
Ann
Abakhan is a family-run company specialising in fabric, haberdashery, crafts and more! It has nine stores across the north west of England and north Wales. www.abakhan.co.uk
Green Bloom scuba £10 per metre Scuba is a popular fabric trend right now, and vibrant bright green would make a stunning dress.
Coral geometricprint viscose £5.99 per metre This bright print viscose fabric has a luxurious silky hand �nish and superb draping quality, making it suitable for any dressmaking item.
White Maggie stretch satin £9 per metre The contrast of these bold �orals on a feminine stretch satin is perfect for a wedding or party out�t.
Italian-made boucle/wool blend £14.99 per metre This wool blend multicoloured boucle fabric would make a stunning classic-style jacket or skirt.
Royal Blue Daisy jersey £15 per metre This daisy-print jersey screams spring – bright �orals are great fun and an instant pick-me-up.
Italian �oral-print cotton sateen spandex £24.50 per metre This print from the Lux collection, with 97% polyester and 3% spandex, is perfect for most dressmaking projects.
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YOUR
FREE PATTERN White V-neck blouse £25, www.asos.com
Sew a classic This month’s free pattern with concealed zipper and simple waistband is perfect if you haven’t sewn trousers before Photography RENATA STONYTE Model CHARLOTTE for BOSS Hair and make-up NINA ROCHFORD for CREATIVES
FOR MORE TIPS ON SEWING JERSEY SEE TILLY’S ADVICE ON PAGE 14
Get the look
Heavy triple-crepe dress fabric
This top-quality heavyweight polyester crepe fabric with a textured appearance and a slight give will drape and sew beautifully
M&S Collection black tassel tote bag £35, www.marksand spencer.com
£16.99 per metre
www.minervacrafts.com
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Sewing with
SLIPPERY FABRIC
Gorgeous, floaty and easy to wear, the Palazzo Trousers lend themselves to crepe, viscose, rayon and even silk, ready for the summer ahead
Cutting tools
Sharp dressmaking scissors can be used to cut slippery fabric, but to ensure that you minimise the lift caused by the bottom shear and prevent uneven edges, always cut your pattern from the left. Now would be a good time to consider investing in a rotary cutter – the extra-sharp blade combined with even pressure gives a clean cut on all fabric. Remember to use a selfhealing cutting mat underneath to protect your work surface. Pattern weights are handy for keeping your pattern in place. You can make your own by following Sewing Bee contestant Make your own pattern weights to Rumana’s handy match your sewing room step-by-step tutorial at www.thelittle pomegranate.co.uk/ a-little-pyramid-pattern-weight
Pins and needles
It’s time to invest in some bridal or lace glass-headed pins. These are long with a super-sharp point and will glide into slippery fabric without snagging. Don’t skimp when pinning pattern pieces – leaving too many gaps can allow the paper to slip. A Microtex needle has a sharp point to pierce the fabric easily.
Prepping your fabric
After washing and drying, hang your fabric over a drying rack or washing line and apply spray starch. This helps the fabric stiffen, making it easier to cut. This ecofriendly version is a good choice.
Earth Friendly Spray Starch £3.60, www.natural collection.com
Cutting
If your fabric is very slippery, cutting your pattern in single layers will result in a better cut and a clean edge to work with. If you have pieces that need cutting on the fold, trace them onto folded baking paper and then open it out and cut as one piece. Laying a cotton sheet on your cutting table will help stabilise your fabric and stop it from moving – make sure it’s an old sheet just in case you catch it with your scissors!
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YOUR
FREE PATTERN
Wear the
trousers Follow Corrine's step-by-step guide to a perfect pair of trousers www.applebymakes.wordpress.com
Use your free Simple Sew pattern to create trousers worth talking about
Mauve heavy triple crepe dress fabric £16.99 per metre, www.minervacrafts.com
Medium-weight polyester viscose check suiting fabric £6.73 per metre, www.abakhan.co.uk
Moonstone Blue printed viscose Є19.90 (approximately £17.49) per metre, www.atelierbrunette.com
Sweet Dreams by Anna Maria Horner £15 per metre, www.thecraftymastermind.co.uk
Tropical Flowers Mint rayon challis £8.75 per metre, www.dragon�yfabrics.co.uk
Salso �oral linen £14.99 per metre, www.remnantkings.co.uk
We love this smart navy pair
Find The Fabric Wranglers' pattern review at www.simplesewblog.com
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Busy beehive
TEA COSY
Create a buzz at breakfast with this fun beehive tea cosy. It’s easy to make and includes cute little felt bumblebees – a lovely gift idea for a bee-loved friend!
DOWNLOAD YOUR
FREE TEMPLATE
We used
Camelot Fabrics Kate Neat Poplin £4.99 per metre
www.minervacrafts.com
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Fiona Project FIONA HESFORD Sewgirl Photography ALEX WRIGHT teneight
13/02/2018 16:33
HOME SKILL LEVEL: MATERIALS: •• 30x70cm honeycomb printed cotton fabric •• 30x70cm cotton lining fabric •• 30x70cm 4oz polyester wadding or use a double layer of quilter’s wadding •• 12cm-square dark grey cotton fabric •• 12cm-square Bondaweb •• 1m dark grey bias binding •• small piece of black & grey felt (bees) •• pale yellow & black hand-embroidery thread •• walking foot (or you can hand-quilt the cosy if necessary) •• templates downloaded from www.sewnowmag.co.uk
A
B
C
D
E
F
G
H
HOW TO MAKE: Cut out two pieces from the tea cosy template in the honeycomb fabric, two pieces in lining and two in the wadding. Trim off 1cm from outer curved edge only of wadding pieces.
1
2
Mark horizontal lines 4cm apart with a light pencil (or invisible fabric marker) on the RS of front and back outer pieces as shown on the template.
3
Cut out two pieces in Template (A) in black felt and one piece in Template (B) in grey felt for each bee required.
4
Using the paper side of the Bondaweb, trace off the hive door shape as shown on the template with a pencil. Bond to the reverse side of the grey fabric piece with a hot iron for about six to seven seconds. Cut out the shape following the pencil line and peel off the paper backing. Place in position on to one of the hive front fabric pieces and iron to fix in place. Stitch around door shape with a machine blanket stitch or satin stitch. Use an appliqué foot on your machine if you have one, this will give you better visibility. (See Pic A.)
5
Place the front hive piece on top of the wadding piece WST. Pin then tack-stitch all around by hand or machine (with a walking foot). Sew along marked lines with a straight stitch by machine with a walking foot or by hand with a small running stitch using hand-embroidery thread. Reduce your embroidery thread thickness to two strands. Trim all loose ends at the side. Press lightly. Repeat for back. (See Pic B.)
6
9
7
10
Once both your front and back hive pieces have been quilted, it's time to attach the lining pieces. Place the lining piece on top of the wadding WST. Pin then tack all around close to outer edge. Place front and back pieces RST. Pin then sew 1cm from curved edge only. Remove tacking. Finish raw edges with a zigzag stitch or overlocker.
Clip curved seam allowance, it’s a bit tricky as it’s quite thick but small cuts will be fine. Turn to RS. Press.
8
Take your length of bias binding; unfold one long edge all around. Starting at one side seam, pin to the lower raw edge of the cosy RST overlapping at the ends by approximately 1cm. Sew all around 1cm from edge. (See Pic C.) Press binding up and fold over to the reverse side. Pin then hand-stitch with a small slip stitch all around. (See Pic D.)
Place the two black felt oval shapes together and stitch by hand all around with a fine strand of black thread, leaving an opening. Stuff with a little scrap of wadding then continue sewing up the bee body. (See Pic E.) Sew four bands of yellow using embroidery thread and don’t forget to give your little bees tiny stitched dots for eyes. (See Pic F.) Gather up the centre of the wing piece with a few small stitches of black thread. (See Pic G.) Attach to your little bees’ back with a few stitches. (See Pic H.) Sew on to the hive in desired position. There you have one bee-utiful tea cosy! Invest in a share of a beehive for £29.99 a year, you will receive honey, flower seeds and a certificate and help save our endangered bees and hives in the UK. Find out more at www.adoptahive.co W WW.SEWNOWMAG.CO.U K
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LS51 HOUSE AD.indd 26
13/02/2018 11:28 E OINS FACIL AVERAGE/M
corselet es et ferpoitrine, à ante sur la manches court ge froncé, E: Robe moul front ROB et dos en forme, corsa dress has nt gh the bust sleeves, and deva à glissière dos. -fitting throu short meture at bodice, 8-20-22) DRESS: Close lure: ff, gathers 4), E5(14-16-1 Chine, Linon. Doub shaped midri -8-10-12-1 e de and back Séries: A5(6 Crêpe, Crêp ine, r. 22) back zippe TISSUS: Etam -16-18-20-12-14), E5(14 . Lining: Lining Tissus de doublure. ne conviennent pas. ns: A5(6-8-10, Crepe de Chine, Lawn nales 22 Combinatio . 18 20 Grandes diago Challis, Crepe . **Sans Sens 10 12 14 16 FABRICS: *Avec Sens 8 6 — Fabrics. diagonals. 2.70 — TAILLES for obvious 22 2.40 2.40 2.10 18 20 Unsuitable 2.10 2.20 Nap. 2.00 2.00 ROBE 14 16 **Without 2.10 2.10 1.80 1.80 */** 10 12 *With Nap. 1.60 1.60 8 115cm 6 1.60 1.60 — 2.30 2π — SIZES 2.20 2.30 150cm*/** 2∫ 2∫ 2≤ 1.90 2.20 E 1.90 2≤ 2∑ 2∂ 2∂ DRESS 1.90 DOUBLUR . 2≤ 2≤ 1π 1π 1.90 1.90 ère de 55cm 1≥ 1≥ 45"*/** 115cm eture à glissi 1≥ 1≥ Ferm 2∞ 1 E: 2∞ 60"*/** T FINI MERCERI 2∑ 2∑ 2 DU VÊTEMEN 2 229 2 LINING 2 219 224 MESURES 2 209 214 l’ourlet 45" 200 204 Zipper. Largeur à MENTS 195 197 let : One 22" 105 NOTIONS T MEASURE nuque à l’our 104 105 Robe GARMEN 90≤ - dos, votre 102 102 103 103 86≤ 88≤ FINISHED Longueur 82≤ 84≤ r edge 100 101 Width, lowe 76≥ 77≥ 78≥ 80≤ Robe 41∞ of neck 41 41≤ Dress h from base 40 40≤ 40∞ 40≥ Back lengt 39∞ 39≥ Dress
B6380 F
Order your copy today at www.moremags.com/ls51 Contents and gift subject to change *Template sheet features magazine project patterns
l Pattern Co. 2016 The McCal
ick.com
butter • www.MANU FACTURING
ERCIAL OR K 10271 © NOT FOR COMM AY, NEW YOR ONLY AND 120 BROADWFOR INDIVIDUAL HOME USE PATTERN, E PERSONNEL. SOLD VE Á UN USAG BUTTERICK ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. SE RESER
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Tilly Walnes's jersey sewing tips Simply adorable baby bonnet tutorial Try our stylish wrap skirt project Meet millinery expert Emma Fozard Travel anywhere patchwork holdall A5/E5 ( 6 - 2
22ND MARCH ON SALE ISSUE 51
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80 61 85
77 58 83
12 34 26∞ 36
10 32∞ 25 34∞
8 31∞ 24 33∞
6 30∞ 23 32∞
Butterick
14 36 28 38
92 71 97
16 38 30 40
97 76 102
18 40 32 42
102 81 107
20 42 34 44
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Get gardening
planting set With spring around the corner this pretty set will kick-start your gardening plans! Project DEBBIE VON GRABLER-CROZIER www.sallyandcraftyvamp.blogspot.co.uk
Debbie
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Gardener's TOOL BELT Keep your tools and seeds to hand with this stylish gardening apron
PUT A DAB OF FRAY STOPPER (OR CLEAR DRYING FABRIC GLUE) ONTO THE END OF THE BAKER’S TWINE TO STOP IT FROM COMING AWAY
SKILL LEVEL: MATERIALS: •• 35x112cm Home Grown Delicate Petals fabric •• 55x112cm Cottontail Spring Garden fabric •• 50cm Vlieseline H630 fusible wadding •• 20cm matching metal zip •• 20cm black & white baker’s twine •• 8x2.5cm scrap tan leather •• alphabet stamp set •• Jet Black Ranger Archival Ink NOTES: Seam allowance for all three projects is 0.5cm unless otherwise stated
28
CUTTING: For the back section, cut: 2 31x46cm pieces Home Grown Delicate Petals 31x46cm wadding For the front section, cut: 2 23x46cm Cottontail Spring Garden 23x46cm wadding For the zip pocket lining, cut: 2 25x40cm Cottontail Spring Garden For the strap fabric, cut: 7x70cm Cottontail Spring Garden HOW TO MAKE: Choose a suitable phrase and use the stamp set and black ink to stamp it onto the leather label.
1
2
Fuse wadding to the wrong side of one of the Home Grown Delicate Petals pieces. Put the other aside for the lining.
3
Find the vertical centre of the interfaced panel and the lengthways centre of the zip pocket lining piece by marking or creasing. Lay the zip pocket lining onto the front of the interfaced panel with right sides together. The top of the pocket lining will be flush with the top of the panel.
4
On the wrong side of the pocket lining 3.5cm down from the top, mark a 1cm deep x 20cm long box – this is the sewing line for the zipper. Mark another line
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HOME & GARDEN
A
D
E
horizontally down the middle of it with an angle at each end – this is the cutting line. (See pics A and B.)
the pocket. Thread the piece of baker’s twine through the zipper then pull and tie it firmly, (See Pic C.)
5
Sew around the sewing line, cut along the cutting line and then ‘post’ the zipper box lining through the hole and smooth everything out on the back. Press and top-stitch the zipper in.
7
6
8
Bring up the other short end of the pocket lining to meet the first and then sew the sides and top to complete
If the pocket is too
deep for your tools, trim away thr bottom edge to reduce the depth. Have your garden tools to hand so you can get the dimensions just right
F
G
To make the front pocket, which has sections for tools, take a piece of Cottontail Spring Garden fabric for the outer and fuse the interfacing to the wrong side of it. With the right sides together, stitch along the top edge of the pocket panel. Flip the two pieces over and press the edge neatly. Top-stitch along the panel. Press the pocket panel and stabilise the edges with a basting stitch. Trim if necessary. (See Pic D.)
9
Top-stitch the leather label about 4cm down from the top edge, in the centre. (See Pic E.)
10
Attach the pocket section to the zip section, lining up the bottom edges, and baste. Lay the other piece of peach fabric that you put aside earlier, on top with right sides together. Pin.
11
Divide the pocket with a couple of vertical seams, ensuring you lift the zip pocket lining out of the way!
12 Sam
C
B
Pin a strap on the top of the peach panel, 0.5cm down from the top on each side to allow for the seam. Sew the straps. (See Pic F.)
13
Roll up the straps and clip them out of the way. Lay the back apron piece right sides together on top of the apron front. Pin and sew around the outer edge, leaving a turning gap in the bottom. Clip across the corners to reduce bulk and turn out through the turning gap.
14
Press the apron and top-stitch all the way around, closing the turning gap at the same time.
15
Fold strap pieces lengthways right sides together. Sew along the length and one short end, leaving the other end open. Turn out through the open end and press the edges neatly. Top-stitch along both sides and across the end. (See Pic G.) W WW.SEWNOWMAG.CO.U K
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Planting MAT
Cutting a larger base piece means that if the fabric creeps while you are quilting you have fabric to play with. The layers will be trimmed back after quilting
Debbie
Keep your knees dry and warm when planting your precious seedlings with this useful mat
30
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HOME & GARDEN
SKILL LEVEL: MATERIALS: •• 50cm Home Grown Apples & Pears fabric •• 50cm Vlieseline 266 wool-mix wadding •• fat quarter Vlieseline Style-Vil foam interfacing •• 1.5m bias binding •• 35cm 2.5cm-wide black cotton webbing •• 35cm black and white ribbon •• 2 5x4cm tan leather scraps •• 2x7cm leather scrap •• alphabet stamp set •• Jet Black Ranger Archival Ink •• walking foot & leather needle
A
B
C
D
E
F
smaller foam in the core means that the binding will not be too bulky.
if necessary and round the ends with a teacup or similar. (See Pic C.)
2
4
Sew a seam vertically across the centre to bind all layers together. Measure 5cm each side of this centre line and repeat. If you don’t have a walking foot try increasing your stitch length and loosening your tension to quilt the lined sections. Prepare a small section of all of the layers to practise on. (See pics A and B.)
3
Continue until you have reached the end of the mat on each side. Trim
To make the handle, pin and sew the ribbon to the webbing strap. Make a leather label by stamping a word or short saying onto the leather. Sew this to the middle of the handle. (See pics D, E and F.)
5
Bind the mat edges with bias binding and attach the handle on one end. Position a piece of scrap leather over one end of the handle. Top-stitch the edges to finish.
CUTTING: For the top of the mat, cut: 35x45cm Home Grown Apples & Pears For the bottom of the mat, cut: 45x50cm Home Grown Apples & Pears From the wadding, cut: 36x46cm 46x51cm From the Vlieseline Style-Vil, cut: 33x43cm HOW TO MAKE: Position the interfacing between the two wadded layers (all the wrong sides should be facing inwards towards the foam). Clip or pin so that no movement is possible. The slightly
1
W WW.SEWNOWMAG.CO.U K
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Fabric PLANT POTS
Perfect to show off your hard work, these planters are just the thing when you bring your herbs indoors
SKILL LEVEL: MATERIALS: •• 70x112cm Home Grown Funky Cactus fabric •• 70x112cm Black/Grey Chain Dots Modern Geometric fabric •• 70cm Vlieseline H630 fusible wadding •• 10cm-square tan leather scraps •• alphabet stamp set •• leather hole punch •• light orange Perle #8 coton •• Jet Black Ranger Archival Ink
32
CUTTING: For the small plant pot, cut: 2 25cm square Home Grown Funky Cactus for the outer 2 25cm square Chain Dots Modern Geometric for the inner For the large plant pot, cut: 2 48x29cm Home Grown Funk Cactus for the outer 2 48x29cm Chain Dots Modern Geometric for the inner
Fun slogans for your planter Water me! Grow already! Bad hair day Free hugs (for a cactus) Leaf me alone
FINISHED SIZE : Small planter (folded down by 5cm) Base 12.5x11cm, height 12.5cm Large planter (folded down by 9cm) Base 15x13cm, height 23.5cm
WWW.SEWN OWMAG .CO.UK
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HOME & GARDEN
A
B
D
E
HOW TO MAKE Both pots are made in the same way. The small planter has a starting size of 25cm square and the larger planter has a starting size of 30x40cm. We’ll make the small planter and the larger one will follow the same instructions.
1
8
2
9
Interface both outer pieces with fusible wadding. Don’t interface the lining pieces. This step gives the plant bag body and allows you to position it and make it stay put.
To make the label, cut a 2.5x7cm leather scrap and create a hole in each end using the leather hole punch. Use the stamp set and ink to add the wording of your choice and sew it to what will become the front of the planter using Perle cotton. (See pics C, D and E.) Repeat the above steps to create the larger version.
C
If your leather is a little shiny for the ink, sand it a bit of fine-grade sandpaper to make it a little more ink- friendly
Sam
We used
3
With right sides together, sew the outer sides and bottom, and also the lining sides and bottom. Leave a small turning gap in the base of the lining, keeping it well away from the corners.
4
Cut a 5cm square from each of the bottom corners for the outer and the lining. (See Pic A.)
5 6
Pinch the corners to box them and sew across. (See Pic B.)
Spring Garden Cottontail Cotton
Home Grown Funky Cactus
With the outer the right way and the lining inside out, pull the lining on over the outer and line up the seams. Sew around the top edge, leaving no gaps.
7
Turn the whole thing the right way through the gap in the lining and close the gap. Stuff the lining down into the outer and top-stitch around the top edge.
Home Grown Apples & Pears
Home Grown Delicate Petals
All £11.98 per metre www.crafterscompanion.co.uk
Black/Grey Chain Dots Modern Geometric £11.99 per metre www.higgs andhiggs.com Find Vlieseline products at www.six-penny. com and www. ladysewandsew.co.uk For ribbon stockists’ details, visit www.berisfordsribbons.co.uk
W WW.SEWNOWMAG.CO.U K
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Hi-lo
POCKET TOP
DOWNLOAD YOUR
FREE TEMPLATE
This top is perfect for teaming with skinny trousers or leggings and creates a stylish party garment when made in luxurious silk Project LAURA CASEY www.sewdifferent.co.uk Photography RENATA STONYTE
Clever circular pocket detail
We used
Kipling pale green and blue Liberty silk twill shirting £23.50 per metre
www.libertylondon.com
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STYLE B
C
A
B F
E
D
D
My favourite feature is the oversized semicircle pockets at the front, perfect for plunging your hands into. It works well in most light to mediumweight fabric such as cotton and linen
E
NOTES: Seam allowance is not included We recommend adding about 1.5cm for the seams, or 2cm if the fabric frays easily
1 3
2
With RST sew together each of the pocket fronts to the pocket backs around the largest curved edge. (See Pic A.)
4 1
2
8
5 6
Laura SKILL LEVEL: 10
1 Front 2 Pocket top 3 Yoke 4 Sleeve 5 Back facing
F
HOW TO MAKE: Before you start putting your pattern pieces together it is important to stabilise the curves on your pieces. Sew a stay stitch along the curved edges of every piece just inside the seam allowance (approximately 1cm in from the edge of the fabric).
CUTTING:
7
MATERIALS: •• 1.8m (small & medium) or 2m (large) 145cm-wide silk, cotton lawn, gingham, chambray or poplin(boucle, tweed, coating) or similar medium-weight woven fabric •• 25mm button •• templates downloaded from www.sewnowmag.co.uk
C
9
6 Front facing 7 Trim front 8 Trim back 9 Pocket back 10 Pocket front
3
Turn the pockets inside out. With RST, align the dots on the pocket front and the front panel and sew together around the inner curve. (See Pic B.)
4
Snip notches into your curve so it lies flat. Turn the pocket back the right way and iron the curve in place. SIZING: Size
To fit UK size
XS
8-10
S
10-12
M
12-14
L
16-18
XL
20-22
W WW.SEWNOWMAG.CO.U K
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5
With RST sew the front hem G band to the front. You will have to ease these two curves together as you sew. (See Pic C.)
H
6 7 8
With RST sew the back hem band to the back as above. (See Pic D.) Sew in the darts to the front panel. (See Pic E.)
Make the tuck in the back panel between the marked lines and tack in place close to edge of the fabric. The width of the back panel should now fit the width of the yoke. (See Pic F.)
9 10 11
With RST, sew the yoke to the back panel and press. (See Pic G.) Join the front and the back panels across the shoulders. (See Pic H.).
With RST, stitch the sleeve into the I and press. armhole. Snip the curves (See Pic I.)
G
H
I
J
J
12
Pin the front to the back, carefully aligning the hem bands on the front and back panels. Sew up the sides of the front and back from the bottom of the hem band all the way to the underside of the sleeve. (See Pic J.)
13
Sew the front facing to the back facing along one edge and use this continuous strip to finish the neckline. Don’t forget to clip around your curves to make them lie smoothly. Turn the facing to the inside and iron. (See Pic K.)
14
Finish the sleeve edges and the bottom of the tunic with a small roll hem.
K
K
36
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Fabric Patterns Workshops
www.leicestershirecraftcentre.co.uk
W WW.SEWNOWMAG.CO.U K
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We’re all unique, in a combination of sizes and shapes. Wendy Gardiner, Brand Ambassador for The McCall Pattern Company, provides some helpful tips on sewing plus-size patterns
Wendy
Princess seams are easier to adjust for fuller busts, simply re-curve the bust seams by adding a quarter of the extra width needed to each side of the seam
SEWING FOR
curvaceous
figures
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TUTORIAL THE FIRST RULE IS TO FORGET YOUR HIGH STREET SIZE – IT WILL NOT BE THE SAME AS YOUR PATTERN SIZE
WHICH SIZE TO MAKE It is vital to take accurate measurements and then use these to pick your pattern size. It is best to take measurements wearing underwear only (or a lightweight T-shirt and leggings if a friend is helping). Take bust, high bust/chest, waist and hip measurements. BUST – around the fullest part of the bust and straight across your back. HIGH BUST/CHEST – above the bust, underarm and straight across the back. WAIST – tie a string or ribbon around your middle and bend side to side. Where the string naturally settles is your waist. HIPS – around the fullest part, usually 7-9” from your waist WHY IS THE HIGH BUST SO IMPORTANT? Most patterns are designed for B cup. So if you are a C cup or above, you need to choose the pattern by your high bust measurement and then make a full bust adjustment to tailor the �t. Doing this means the pattern will �t so much better across the shoulders, back, chest and torso and then can be adapted for your fuller bust. You can �nd steps to make a full bust adjustment on page 94. DETERMINING EASE Using your measurements take a look at the sizing
on the pattern envelope and highlight the measurements nearest your own. Most women are a combination of two or more sizes so feel free to grade between the sizes as you cut out. Just remember to keep track where you adjust so that the seams still match up. For a top, jacket or dress, choose from your bust size or high bust size as mentioned above. For trousers and skirts, choose from your hip size. You can alter the patterns for your waist if necessary. PATTERN SHOPPING There are many patterns designed speci�cally for fuller �gures and these are sized accordingly. Patterns with di�erent pieces for di�erent cup sizes are ideal for curvy �gures as they don’t need additional bust adjustments to be made. To determine your pattern cup size, take the bust measurements mentioned above and subtract the high bust from the full bust measurement. If the di�erence is 2.5cm or less, you are an A cup, 3.2-5cm then a B cup, 5.7-7.5cm di�erence makes you a C cup, and if 8.2-10cm that’s a D cup and if more than 10.7cm, I think you get the gist! LOOK FOR THE CLUES! FIT – not only does the envelope have the sizing by measurements, there is also a description on the back about the type of �t it is designed for. A close �tting garment will have as little as 2-4cm ease. A �tted garment will have between 7.5cm and 17cm ease in the bust area depending on whether it is a dress, jacket or coat whilst a very loose �tting garment may have 20.533.5cm ease.
A loose-�tting garment will have plenty of wearing ease built in so check the �nished garment measurements and cut a smaller size if needed
GARMENT SIZE – as well as standard notches and notations, there are markings to denote the �nished garment size at bust, waist and hip. Again, check these and compare with your own measurements before
Omit side-seam pockets if you have fuller hips. Or, if you must, make them in a lightweight lining fabric to minimise the bulk
cutting out the fabric (remembering that these measurements will include the ‘ease’ required for a comfortable �t). Use my tips for determining the ease and �t you need, then pick your size. Err on the side of generous as you can always take something in. BUST POINT – check the bust point (marked on the tissue). Hold the tissue pieces against yourself and pin at shoulder (don’t forget to allow for a 1.5cm seam allowance). Is the bust point in the right position for you? If not you may need to lower it so that the curve of the garment is in the right place. Do this by cutting horizontally across the tissue from below the armhole to centre seam. Add spare tissue by the amount needed. You will have increased the length too, so to take out the excess length, fold up the tissue below the bust dart by the same amount you added.
As well as being Brand Ambassador for The McCall Pattern Company, Wendy is a published author and sewing teacher. Find her online courses at www.craftsy.com
ber Enjoy your sewing – and remem the size is just a number! W WW.SEWNOWMAG.CO.U K
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DOWNLOAD YOUR
FREE TEMPLATE
RAINBOW
HEX CUSHION Shari
Shari Butler has a simple way to dress up your little girl’s bedside! Who doesn’t love unicorns and rainbows? Project SHARI BUTLER
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HOME SKILL LEVEL: MATERIALS: •• 5” square Pink Unicorn Rainbow fabric •• 5” square Pink Unicorn Deco fabric •• fat quarter Pink Unicorn Main •• fat quarter Pink Unicorn Glitter •• ¹/₃ yard Pink Unicorn Stripe •• ¹/₂ yard Off White Riley Blake Solid •• 12 buttons (in four different colours to match fabric) •• 500g polyester toy stuffing •• template from www.sewnowmag.co.uk •• lightweight card FINISHED SIZE: 16¼” diameter CUTTING: From the Off White Riley Blake Solid, cut: 2 19” squares from From the Pink Unicorn Stripe, cut: 2 5” x WOF strips Hexagon cutting – cut the fabric hexagons at least ¼” larger all the way around From the Pink Unicorn Main, fussy-cut: 2 hexagons From the Pink Unicorn Glitter, cut: 5 hexagons From the Pink Unicorn Rainbow, cut: 1 hexagon From Pink Unicorn Deco, cut: 1 hexagon From Pink Unicorn Stripe, cut: 5 hexagons From lightweight card, cut: 12 hexagon templates HOW TO MAKE: Use your favorite English paper piecing method to baste all the hexagons around the paper template.
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Unicorn Diagram One
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Arrange your hexagons into a flower, following Diagram 1 and Diagram 2.
Whip-stitch the glitter hexagon to the unicorn centre hexagon. Whip-stitch the stripe hexagon to the glitter hexagon and then whip-stitch the stripe to the unicorn. Repeat until all hexagons are sewn together in a flower shape.
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Press the hexagon flower gently using a dry iron and carefully remove the paper templates, without removing the basting stitches.
Unicorn Diagram One
DIAGRAM 1
Unicorn Diagram Two
DIAGRAM 2
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Buttons are decorative but can also hide not-so- matching points!
Lorna ATTACHING THE FLOWER TO THE WHITE BACKGROUND Centre one hexagon flower onto one 19” white square. Pin all around the flower.
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Machine-stitch ¼” around the inside edge of the hexagon flower. Machine-stitch a second line of stitching close to the inside edge.
Stitch ¼” on inside seam of the centre hexagon. Repeat for second flower. (If your sewing machine has a twin needle you could use that for this step!)
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Hand-sew buttons on each point of the centre hexagon, alternating colours. Trace and cut out the 16½ ” circle template onto paper or card and
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place on top of one of the flower hexagons, sides together. Start anywhere and work making sure the centre of the flower is your way around, easing or stretching central to the template. Pin and cut out a slightly as necessary. 16½” circle. Repeat with the second hexagon flower. These are the front and back. Sew all the way around the edge using a ½” seam allowance. CUSHION CENTRE Sew the two 5“ x WOF strips right Align the cushion back to the front, sides together using a ½” seam to right sides facing together and pin create one long strip. Press open. the opposite edge of the gusset to the back, right sides together. Measure and cut so the strip measures 5x50”. Sew along the edge using a ½” seam allowance and leaving Sew the ends of the strip right sides a 4” gap. together with a ½” seam allowance to create a large circle (referred to as the Clip around the curved edges and gusset). Press seams open. turn the cushion right side out.
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ASSEMBLING THE CUSHION Pin one edge of the gusset to the edge of the cushion front, right
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Stuff with polyester toy stuffing. Finish by sewing the opening of the cushion either by hand or machine.
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The Old Stables 17-23 Poplar Road Kings Heath Birmingham B14 7AA T: 0121 443 5555 E: info@franknutt.co.uk
Three ways to buy - online
by telephone
or visit the shop
Lots of honest, helpful and friendly advice. Around 100 sewing machines and overlockers on show, ready for demonstration. We stock Bernina, Bernette, Brother, Elna, Husqvarna, Janome, Juki and Singer machines. We have an extensive range of Horn cabinets and chairs on display. We also do machine accessories, software, dress forms and workshops. Free customer car park
Come and see us at Sewing for Pleasure 15th-18th March
www.franknutt.co.uk
A handpicked collection of fabrics... delivered to your door
The world’s most innovative fabrics
Linton Tweeds design and weave luxury fabrics for the world’s most exclusive fashion houses See our website for the Linton Direct collection Use discount code
lovesewing10
www.misformake.co.uk
www.lintondirect.co.uk W WW.SEWNOWMAG.CO.U K
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Lisa
Glamorous clamshell
CLUTCH BAG
Did you know? These snappy little clamshells are known as Minaudière clutches, a design that first appeared in the 1930s! Project LISA LAM www.u-handbag.com Photography ALEX WRIGHT teneight
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ACCESSORY
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SKILL LEVEL: MATERIALS: •• Aleene’s Tacky Glue & stiff brush •• Gütermann Tex Bond Glue •• purse strap/chain (to desired length) •• small flat-head screw driver •• sandpaper •• 2 20cm-square quilt weight fabric for exterior •• 2 20cm-square quilt weight fabric for lining FINISHED SIZE: 16.5x13cm HOW TO MAKE: You will make a pattern based on your Clamshell clutch. Take one of the plastic shells and measure its depth. Place the shell right side up onto your fabric. Draw and cut an outline around the shell that is approximately 2.5cm larger then the shell top surface and depth combined. (See Pic A.) The outline shape does not need to be exact. It just needs to be large enough to leave plenty of wiggle room. Cut two in lining fabric as well as two in exterior fabric.
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Check the plastic shell surface. Is it smooth inside and out? If not, use sandpaper to smooth down any bumps or rough edges that could potentially be felt through the fabric.
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Place the shell onto a mug or similar. Raising the shell off the table makes it easier to work with. Apply Aleene’s glue to the outside of one the plastic shells.
(See Pic B.) Don’t overdo it. As this glue is gloopy, it’s easier to add more than it is to remove.
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Use the brush to spread the glue evenly all over the shell outer surface. Take extra care to ensure all parts of the shell are covered. Let the glue dry for two minutes. The glue needs to be dry enough so it won’t seep through the fabric, but wet enough so the fabric will bond well to the shell (yet be movable, if needed).
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Find the shell exterior centre point – if you like you can mark it with a light fingerprint on the glued surface. Take one exterior fabric piece and fold it in half by bringing the long edges RST. Place the fabric folded edge onto the shell centre point. This makes a difference if you don’t want a wonky print! (See Pic C.)
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Use a fabric scrap to smooth the fabric evenly over the shell top surface. You will need one hand to hold the shell steady and move it around as you smooth the fabric over the shell, try not to press anywhere on the shell with your bare fingers (as this can leave ‘glue fingerprints’ in the fabric) – instead, treat the folded fabric scrap as a pad. To avoid bubbles, work outwards in every direction from the shell centre. Smooth down the shell top surface before working on the shell side edges. (See Pic D.) Aim for as few wrinkles as you can. To get the fabric to lie-flat onto an irregular shape shell you will need to make scissor nicks in the
fabric close to (but not into) the shell edge. (See Pic E.)
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With a bit of care and patience you can manipulate the fabric to flatten itself over the shell sides and corners with minimal or no fabric wrinkling. At a shell corner or wrinkled side edge, grab the fabric and gently wiggle it back and forth over the curved corner or until the wrinkle eases itself out. (See Pic F.) You can also flatten fabric bumps by rolling the case sides/corners on the table! You may be left with bit of fabric wrinkling at the shell edge, but as the edge will be concealed by the metal frame (on the finished clutch), that won’t matter. The fabric should be smooth and (almost) wrinkle free all over the shell surface and sides. (See Pic G.)
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Wait for the glue to dry then trim off the excess exterior fabric all around the shell. (See Pic H.) Be reasonably neat, but don’t worry too much.
You are not going to believe how fun and easy these professional-looking clutches are to make. This tutorial explains how to Lorna use any shape of clamshell clutch W WW.SEWNOWMAG.CO.U K
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Tutorial
BANISH THOSE WRINKLES!
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We used... Kitty clamshell 6½” clutch frame $17.50 (approximately £12.63) www.supply4bag.com
Contrast stitch 51" cross-body strap £9.50
Aleene’s glue £4.10
Gütermann textile glue £4.95
All from www.u-handbag.com
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Lining the shell is always a bit trickier because, when lining, we have to push the fabric into the inner shell side and corners and this is harder than pulling the fabric over when covering the shell exterior. That said, if you take your time it’s not too bad. Repeat the glue steps above, lay the lining fabric into the shell and smooth down into the flat surface (not the side edges) as in Step 6. (See Pic I.)
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Smooth the fabric down on all around the shell sides. There will be wrinkling, but try to keep the wrinkles small and evenly distributed. (See Pic J.) To smooth out the wrinkles, gently dig your thumbnails either side of the wrinkle and carefully pull it apart until it flattens.
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Let the glue dry and trim the lining fabric as before.
Now we are going to glue the plastic shell into the metal frame. Notice the long cut-out/notch
Lisa gives us her quick-fire list of ways to eradicate fabric wrinkles during this project •• At a shell corner or wrinkled side edge, grab the fabric and gently wiggle it back and forth over the curved corner or until the wrinkle eases itself out. (See Pic F.) •• You can also flatten fabric bumps by rolling the case sides/corners on a table! •• You can gently dig your thumbnails either side of the wrinkle and carefully pull it apart until it flattens. •• You can tightly stuff fabric scrap into irregular shaped parts (as in the Kitty Clutch ears). (See Pic K.). •• You can also use a rounded tool handle to press wrinkles flat. (See Pic L). on the shell top edge (one or both shells will have a notch). The notch needs to sit over the spring button mechanism. Begin by applying glue to the groove in the frame side that houses the button mechanism. Apply Gütermann glue all around the side and top edges of the metal frame. (See Pic M.) Then take a shell (which has a notch cut-out) and immediately apply glue all around the thin shell edge (See Pic N.) Leave the glue to dry and go tacky on both the frame and shell for six to eight minutes. The glue needs to be touch dry, yet still wet enough to wobble when touched.
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Lower the shell into the metal frame so that the shell cutout notch sits over the frame spring button mechanism. You may find that it's a tight fit, especially at the corners where there can be a few fabric wrinkles. If things are too snug, use your screwdriver to gently ease the plastic shell into the metal frame side of the frame. (See Pic O). Repeat for the other shell and frame side and you’re done.
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WAY ST Y L E , YO U R S E W I N G YO U R
To advertise in Sew Now, call Noune on 0161 474 6997 W WW.SEWNOWMAG.CO.U K
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SHOP LOCAL DIRECTORY BANBURY
BEVERLEY
BEXLEY HEATH
Banbury Sewing Centre 57 Parsons Street, Banbury, Oxon OX16 5NB
enquiries@banburysewingcentre.co.uk
Open 9-5 Mon-Sat
Supplying Fabrics, including Designer, Disney and Quilting. Patterns,Haberdashery, Lace, Trims, buttons and things. Knitting & Crochet accessories and yarns. Classes.
Free Meter of fabric for the first 5 customers to place an order
Sewing supplies & fabrics all under one roof! North Bar Fabrics in Cherry Burton is one of the leading fabric stockists in the area. Visit our store today and you will find exactly what you are looking for. Bernina and Janome stockists
Telephone orders welcome 01295 262344
The Courtyard, Burton Mount, Off Malton Road, Cherry Burton, Beverley, HU17 7RA info@northbarfabrics.co.uk Call: 01964 551 955
CHEPSTOW
CHESHIRE
BIRMINGHAM
Birmingham City Centre Sewing Studio & Tuition 212 The Jubilee Centre, 120 Pershore Street, Birmingham B5 6ND Fabric and Haberdashery Shop specialising in amazing jerseys and luxury cotton lawns. Dashwood Jerseys now in stock Tel 07917 536 220 www.sewcoolandcrafty.co.uk
CLITHEROE
DUMFRIES Romy's Sewing Rooms For all your haberdashery needs. Sewing classes for all ages and abilities.
17 Moor Street, Chepstow, NP16 5DB 01291 627 056
An abundance of haberdashery awaits you. Fabrics, patterns, gutterman threads, DMC embroidery threads, gorgeous ribbons and buttons and more... alterations and curtain making too!
GLOUCESTERSHIRE
180 Irish Street, Dumfries, DG1 2NJ
BlueButtonDesigns
01387250867
djpproducts@msn.com Fabric, Wools and Haberdashery 07540 634 351
romyssewingrooms@gmail.com www.facebook.com/Romyssewingrooms
Buttons, Ribbons and Patterns Blue Make Buttons Designs Weekly Space Group Traders Outlet 39 Parsonage Street 3-7 Tatton Road, Dursley, Glos, GL11Sale, 5RG Cheshire, M33 7EB www.inchesfabrics.co.uk
GRIMSBY
HALIFAX
HAMPSHIRE
Reads of Winchester From Fabrics and Haberdashery, to Wool, Knitting and Crochet Accessories, we have it all here at Friary Stitch.
Fabric, Wools and Haberdashery Buttons, Ribbons and Patterns Weekly Make Space Group 39 Parsonage Street Dursley, Glos, GL11 5RG www.inchesfabrics.co.uk
Come on in and take a look around!
HAMPSHIRE
2-4 Bethlehem Street Grimsby, DN31 1JU
Suppliers of sewing machines. Janome, Elna, Bernina, Toyota, Jaguar Both new and reconditioned.
The Fabbadashery
Fabulous Fabrics, Beautiful Buttons and Truly Scrumptious Trimmings. Craft Workshops Every Week!
01472 357800
hello@thefabbadashery.com www.thefabbadashery.com 01422 647574
www.friarystitch.co.uk
10-12 Clare Road, Halifax, HX1 2HX
HEREFORD
LINCOLNSHIRE
Badder Fabrics of Hereford
SEW BUSY
Stockists of Michael Miller, Riley Blake, Makower, Stof, Tilda, Robert Kaufmann, Dashwood and others. Buttons, haberdashery, patterns, unique gifts and craft workshops. Branksomewood Road, Fleet, Hampshire GU51 4JS Tel: 01252 444220
www.sew-busy.co.uk 48
One stop shop for all your dressmaking needs Patterns, fashion and bridal fabrics, dressmakingand alterations service Husqvarna sewing machine sales and repairs on all models Taking part in the Shop local giveaway campaign 36a Aubrey Street, Hereford HR4 0BU Tel 01432 379137 Email: badderfabric@gmail.com
A gathering place for friends, fabric and inspiration Fabrics . Haberdashery . Sewing classes Leanne's new sewing shop Lots of exciting plans Pop in to say 'Hi'! Unit 8, Crown Walk, Bourne, Lincs PE10 9NE 01778 420464 www.gathernsew.co.uk
Many machines on display demonstrations available. Sales service repair haberdashery supplies
Tel 01962 850950 1 St Thomas Street, Winchester, hants SO23 9HE Open Monday to Saturday 9am to 5pm
LISKEARD
.PAINTERS.
We stock fabric from Moda, Stoff, Lewis & Irene, Makower, Kaffe Fassett, and Free Spirit with threads from Gutermann, Mettler, Madeira and Marathon. We have Jacquard dyes and paints, Pebeo and lampshade kits. Felting supplies, haberdashery, children’s crafts, Woodware and Hunkydory papercrafts. Art materials from Winsor & Newton, Liquitex and Faber Castell. 7 Fore Street, Liskeard, PL14 3JA 01579 347 237 www.craft-box.com painters@craft-box.com
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Surrey KT8 9HA
Beautiful fabrics and workshops where you will find a warm and friendly welcome. Unit 66, Basepoint, The Havens, Ipswich IP3 9BF kisquiltingltd@yahoo.co.uk 01473 722888
Shop open 7 days a week 1000s of bolts, books, notions, buttons & beads and bag making accessories Classes & Workshops Secure Online Shopping
www.creativequilting.co.uk
support your local sewing shop swansea NEWARK
ULVERSTON NORFOLK
A Good Yarn
www.thelittlekraftshed.co.uk
MORPETH
A friendly quilting and knitting shop, we have a large stock of quilting fabrics and notions.
Home of Crafty Betty
We run weekly classes and workshops. & The Fabric Daisy We also stock wool. Services we offer are: Workshops, No.1 and St TBirthday eilo StreetParties, Arts Courses, Hen Pontarddulais Award, After School Clubs, plus we have Swansea, a retail area whereSA4 we 8TH sell fabric and 01792 886 goods. 986 handcrafted melanie.1971@live.co.uk www.newarkcrafthub.co.uk
01636 705909
NORTHALLERTON
Amble Pin Cushion Ad 46x50mm AW.indd 1
13/05/2016 08:42
NORTHWICH Cheshire
The Sew Easy Sewing Shop
Your NEW one stop sewing shop! Sewing workshops in dressmaking and crafts for all ages and abilities, Singer sewing machine sales and parts , Fabrics and haberdashery, Patterns and in-house pattern cutter.
Need haberdashery in Northwich? Look no further than Sew Easy! We’ve a huge selection of fabric, needlecraft, sewing machines, patterns, and haberdashery products.
Come and see us at Sew New Ltd., 1, The Fairway, Romanby, Northallerton, DL7 8AY Tel: 01609 531399 Email: info@sewnew.co.uk Facebook: www.facebook.com/SewNew.co.uk www.sewnew.co.uk
80 Witton Street, Northwich, Cheshire, CW9 5AE
07952709910 www.seweasysewingshop.co.uk
ST WORTHING AUSTELL
SOUTHAMPTON
Fabulous fabrics for patchwork, dressmaking & crafts. 2 Purlieu Court, Beaulieu Road Dibden Purlieu, Southampton Hampshire SO45 4PX
isabelle@creativequilting.co.uk 020 8941 7075
• Servicing and repairs on all makes and models of sewing machines from £40 • Local agent for Brother and Juki machines • Fabrics library and sewing accessories 1 Biddicks Court, • Friendly, knowledgeable service
St Austell, PL25 5EW
Tel; 02381 783386 Mon - Sat 10AM - 4PM www.newforestfabrics.co.uk
1 The Broadway, Tel: 01726 75385 Brighton Road Email: sewandfabric@yahoo.co.uk Worthing, BN11 3EG us on Facebook T: 01903Find 200771 E: katybobbin@gmail.com
TEWKESBURY
YORKSHIRE
NORTH YORKSHIRE
A family run business based in Ulverston, the Lake District, housing over 500 fabrics. Running sewing classes from beginners to patchwork & quilting and lampshade making. Also making unique Haberdashery childrens clothing.
Fabrics and Sewing patterns in stock Ribbon, Lace and Trimmings Alterations Sewing classes workshops 2 Marketand Street, FreeUlverston, friendlyLA12 advice 7AY
07742 247 179 or 07815 691 258 thelittlekraftshed@gmail.com
01366 387147
1 Lynn Road, Downham Market, Norfolk PE34 3SB
PRESTON HAMPSHIRE
SCOTLAND ®
www.sewcreative.org.uk
fabulous fabrics, haberdashery, Welcome to my lovely & craft emporium! workshops more We have lots of crafty goodies for sale 20-22 Lavant Street, PETERSFIELD, however support, inspiration and the Hampshire, GU32 3EW service with a smile are free! T: 01730 858020 Open 9.00am - 5.30pm E: info@sewcreative.org.uk
Monday to Saturday
68 Berry Lane, Longridge, Preston, PR3 3WH 01772 780 883 www.itsofsewcrafty.com
STOKE-ON-TRENT
to advertise in call NOUNE on 0161 474 6997
SURREY
Sweet Seams Sewing Academy specialises in teaching people of all abilities to sew. Young sewers from 8 years. Teenagers group and Adult classes. Small classes + friendly environment = happy creative customers Fabrics, haberdashery, patterns and handmade gifts. 41 Walton Road, East Molesey, Surrey, KT8 0DH www.sweetseams.co.uk 07954 326495
ONLINE
42 www.quiltnow.co.uk Sheffield’s newest independent sewing store. We stock a wide range of fabrics, QN34.P40.indd 42 Michael Miller, Riley Blake and including Tula Pink. We also offer classes in a variety of crafts. 1a Arundel Road Sheffield S35 2RB 0114 2455996 handmadehappyhare @yahoo.co.uk
www.handmadehappyhare.com
Molly Felicity Designs original designs made with you in mind Like our fabrics but want to make something yourself? Molly Felicity Designs are now offering vintage inspired fabrics and prints so you can create something wonderful yourself
www.mollyfelicitydesigns.com
WAY ST Y L E , YO U R S E W I N G YO U R
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DISCOUNTS &GIVEAWAYS Lovely sewing goodies and patterns to win, plus generous discounts to help fill your fabric stash
WIN A TAPE MEASURE BUNDLE
5
TO WIN!
A retractable tape measure is a staple item for any sewing basket. This month we’re o�ering �ve lucky readers a Hemline tape measure bundle that includes a tape measure with key ring, a tape measure with lanyard and an extra-long double-sided tape measure. These nifty tools are ideal when you’re out and about shopping for fabric or home furnishings, and the tape measure with lanyard also features a magnetic back so it can double up as a needle minder when you’re sewing. Hemline products are available nationwide from all good haberdashery and sewing suppliers. For stockist information, contact Hemline – email: groves@stockistenquiries.co.uk or telephone 01453 883581.
WIN A PATTERN BUNDLE FROM SEWBOX
The lovely team at Sewbox is o�ering one lucky reader the chance to win this incredible collection of patterns. Among the bundle of goodies, you’ll �nd two Hot Patterns, a vintage-inspired top pattern from Rosie & Me as well as a By Hand London pattern. Sewbox is an online shop stocking a fantastic selection of fabric, haberdashery and sewing patterns, make sure you pay a visit to www.sewbox.co.uk
5
TO WIN!
50
WIN A GÜTERMANN FAT QUARTER BUNDLE Dive in and let your gaze sweep the far horizon with a colour palette that brings the great outdoors inside. Sand dunes, surf, wind and big skies are the inspiration behind the Long Island fabric collection from Gütermann. We have �ve fat quarter bundles to give away which are perfect for quilt making, sewing and crafting. For stockist information, contact gütermann@stockistenquiries. co.uk or call 01453 883581.
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DISCOUNTS & GIVEAWAYS WIN A FABRIC AND PATTERN BUNDLE FROM DRAGONFLY FABRICS
Dragonfly Fabrics is offering one lucky reader an amazing fabric and pattern bundle! The team at Dragonfly has a wealth of experience working in the fashion industry and stocks a fantastic range of patterns, fabric and haberdashery. Visit www.dragonflyfabrics.co.uk to browse the great selection of products.
WIN A RILEY BLAKE FAT QUARTER BUNDLE
Featuring a mix of cheerful florals and inspiring sentiments, the Riley Blake Heart & Soul range is a must for any crafter’s fabric stash. We have five fat quarter bundles to give away to five lucky readers. To find stockist information, visit www.eqsuk.com
TOTES AMAZING
SAVE 20% on the Sew Liberated pattern range at Dragonfly Fabrics with the code SEWNOW18. Offer valid until 22nd March
1
TO WIN!
Keep your dressmaking rules in check with this hand-printed cotton tote bag from WoahTherePickle. Made from 100% cotton and available in natural cotton lilac or mint, these bags are perfect for carrying around all your sewing tools and fabric stash. Make sure you check out the store at www.etsy.com/uk/shop/WoahTherePickle
DISCOUNTS
SAVE 10% at Alice Caroline with the code SewNow18 at www.alicecaroline.co.uk SAVE 20% on crepe fabric at Minerva using the code SEWNOW18 at www.minervacrafts.com *All discounts valid until 5th April
To enter, go to www.ppjump.com/sewnow18
Closing date: 5th April 2018. Only one entry per person. Open to UK residents only. By entering these competitions, you accept your email address may be passed on to sponsors for marketing activities W W W.SEWNOWMAG.CO.U K
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01903 746204 7 High Street, Storrington, West Sussex, RH20 4DR
Facebook: /sewsomething haberdashery Sewing Courses Sewing Machine Repairs Dress Fabrics Patchwork Fabrics Sew something is a haberdashery shop on the main high street in the beautiful village of Storrington. We stock a wide variety of patchwork and dressmaking fabrics, as well as wools, cottons and embroidery silks. We also offer an extensive range of haberdashery products. Butterick patterns are available to order in store. In our own workshop we run a range of courses from the complete novice to the more accomplished crafters.
sew_something_storrington@yahoo.co.uk
www.sew-something.co.uk 52
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Crepe de la crème
SAVE 20%
on crepe fabric at Minerva Crafts
Stock up on some fabulous fabric with this exclusive offer from Minerva Crafts
Abstract-print polyester crepe, £2.99 per metre
Floral-print polyester crepe, £8.99 per metre
John Kaldor �oral-print crepe, £13.99 per metre
Heavy triple crepe, £16.99 per metre
Birds & Flowers-print poly rayon crepe, £4.99 per metre
Dress, www.hobbs.co.uk
John Kaldor abstract-print crepe, £11.99 per metre
Layered leaves-print crepe, £5.99 per metre
Spanish �oral print stretch double crepe, £13.99 per metre
From 1st March until 5th April you can save 20% on all crepe fabric at Minerva Crafts using the code SEWNOW18, visit www.minervacrafts.com W WW.SEWNOWMAG.CO.U K
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Lace-trim
PILLOWCASES Soft, silky lawn is perfect for a place to lay your head. For a pretty, boho look, embellish with coloured lace trim Project AMANDA RUSSELL & JULIET BOWDEN R&B Designs Photography ANTONIA ATTWOOD
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HOME
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R&B Designs says... 2 We bought white and light-coloured cotton lace from Abakhan and coloured it using Dylon hand dyes to complement our fabric. Check out the range of pre-dyed Chantilly, Etienne, Morlaix and Clermont cotton laces at www. craftyribbons.com
SKILL LEVEL: MATERIALS: •• 1m Liberty lawn fabric •• pillowcase (from which to copy the measurements) •• lace •• sewing thread •• tape measure •• dressmaking pins HOW TO MAKE: Measure the pillowcase and add 1cm seam allowance to each side. (See Pic A.)
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Measure the depth of the flap and add seam allowance to each side. (See Pic B.)
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Get the look
Cut a front and a back in one fabric and cut a flap in contrasting fabric.
Neaten one long side of the flap by turning under 0.5cm and the same again, sew with a running stitch. (See Pic C.)
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Sew one piece of trim along the neatened edge of the flap. With RST, sew the flap onto one narrow side of the back piece of fabric. Press the seam flat. (See Pic D.)
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Turn one narrow side of the pillowcase front fabric under, and under again. Press, pin and sew on a piece of lace. (See pics E and F.)
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With RS facing, pin the pillowcase front to the pillowcase back so that the front opening reaches up to where the flap is. Sew with a running stitch.
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Fold the flap over, where you have just sewn so that the front of the flap faces the WS of the pillow front. Pin the sides of the flap to the sides of the pillow and sew with a running stitch. Turn through so that the fabric is the correct way round.
Danjo Liberty Tana Lawn £22.40 per metre
www.sewbox.co.uk
Liberty Tana Lawn - Betsy in Pink £22.60 per metre
www.sewbox.co.uk
Margaret Annie Liberty Tana Lawn £18 per metre
www.shaukat.co.uk
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INSPIRATION Silk scarf £22.50, www.marksandspencer.co.uk
Liberty pepper-print Victorian sewing box £24.95, www.johnlewis.com
Cotton Bookbag £16, www.cathkidston.com Di�user £28, www.saramiller.london
Mum’s the
word Celebrate Mother’s Day with our selection of lovely gifts
Water bottle £26, www.anthropologie.com
English Herb Garden Basket £42.50, www.winterinvenice.co.uk
Printed scarf £29.50, www.oliverbonas.com Mug £19.95, www.emmabridgewater.co.uk
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Button-down
skirt This panelled A-line skirt is an easy-wear wardrobe essential. Stretch your skills with buttonholes and topstitching on denim or make a pretty floral cotton version for spring Project CLAIRE GARSIDE www.simplesewpatterns.com Photographer RENATA STONYTE Model CHARLOTTE for BOSS Hair and make-up NINA ROCHFORD
DOWNLOAD YOUR
FREE TEMPLATES
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Claire
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STYLE
C
fold over
d stban wai g n 1.5cm rha ove
nd
a aistb m w ng 1.5cverha o
d ban aist m w ng 1.5cverha o
fold over
fold over
d stban wai g n 1.5cm rha ove fold over
centre front line
celdnotrveefrront line fo
B
fold over
centre front line
A
fold over
fold over
fold over
D
SKILL LEVEL:
NOTES: A 1.5cm seam allowance throughout unless otherwise stated CUTTING: 45” wide FOLD
2
4
5
1
3
1
6
8
10
12
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16
18
20
Waist
24”
26”
28”
30”
32”
34”
36”
38”
Hips
34”
36”
38”
40”
42”
44”
46”
48”
FABRIC TYPES: Medium-weight wovens; cotton, denim, corduroy and cotton sateen
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Classic stitching!
HOW TO MAKE: With RST and matching hip notches, attach one front skirt to its corresponding front side skirt piece. Press the seams open. (See Pic A.)
Mimic branded jeans with topstitching in subtle orange thread
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2
With RST sew the front side skirt to the corresponding back side skirt along the side seam. Press the seams open. (See Pic B.) Continue around the skirt until all panels are attached, pressing seams open as you go. (See Pic C.)
FOLD
2
Finished measurements
3
60” wide
3
F
SIZING:
MATERIALS: • 1.45m 45”-wide (112cm) or 60”-wide (150cm) fabric • 6 (mini) or 8 (knee length) 1.5cm buttons • co-ordinating thread • templates downloaded from www.sewnowmag.co.uk
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and aistb m w ng 1.5cverha o
E
fold over
centre front line
centre front line
nd
a aistb m w ng 1.5cverha o
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Fold the skirt front along the �rst fold line and press. Fold over again at second fold line and press. Baste closed or top-stitch along the length of the placket if desired. (See Pic D.)
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Fold the waistband with WST and press to form a crease, then unfold.
982 Orange Gütermann 100m Sew-all thread £1.85 www.remnantkings.co.uk
With RST pin one raw edge of your waistband to the upper edge of the skirt. Start at the centre back and end with 1.5cm of waistband hanging over the centre fronts. Sew in place. (See Pic E.)
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Press the seam upwards, then fold the waistband in half so its right sides are together, sandwiching the skirt between. Sew the short edges of the waistband, being careful not to catch the body of the skirt in your stitching line. (See Pic F.) W WW.SEWNOWMAG.CO.U K
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G
H
I
7
Turn the waistband through to the RS again and press. On the RS of the skirt sew along the waistband seam, catching the reverse of the waistband as you go (this is called stitching in the ditch). (See Pic G.)
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Sew the buttonholes on the righthand side front skirt, following the placement markings. Then sew the buttons in the corresponding positions on the left-hand side. (See Pic H.)
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Hem the skirt by turning up the hem by 2cm and stitching all the way around. (See Pic I.)
Get the look
Indigo denim A solid fabric for any wardrobe, this rich indigo denim will work all year round and give a crisp finish to your skirt ÂŁ13 per metre
Classic orange stitching adds a stylish finishing touch
www.remnantkings.co.uk
Antique brass 17mm jeans buttons Stamped with a pretty floral design, these brass non-sew buttons are great for skirts, jeans and jackets ÂŁ3.50 for a pack of 8
www.jaycotts.co.uk
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WORKSHOPS
Sewing
WORKSHOPS Brush up on the basics or learn something new at a workshop near you
HAPPY HARE
Chapeltown, Sheffield Happy Hare is an independent sewing store based in Chapeltown, Sheffield. It stocks a wide range of fabric including Michael Miller, Riley Blake and Tula Pink, and also offers classes in a variety of crafts. Materials will be provided for all workshops. For sewing workshops you must be able to use a sewing machine with a reasonable level of skill. www.handmadehappyhare.com
ABAKHAN
There are plenty of exciting classes coming up at the Abakhan stores. The family-run company sources top-quality fabric, accessories and haberdashery for sewists nationwide. www.abakhan.co.uk 24TH MARCH Make your own activewear (Liverpool) Gym bunny? Aerialist? Dancer? Fed up with high prices and a poorquality kit? Make your own! Here you will make a sports top and either cropped leggings or shorts in our amazing sportswear Lycra. Saving money, looking awesome? You can’t afford to miss this one! Cost: £45
10TH MARCH Bedtime story cushion Make a large cosy cushion for reading your bedtime stories on. Cushion pad and book included. Cost: £25 10TH MARCH Skye wrap (Coolcrafting Workshops pattern) The wonderful Skye wrap is made from pure wool and contrasting cotton lawn, with large decorative buttons. Easy to sew, but so effective! Cost: £40
20TH – 21ST APRIL Tailoring techniques 2-day course with Celia Banks (Mostyn) This two-day course will give you the opportunity to learn speed-tailoring techniques while working on one half of a small jacket. You will be introduced to modern, fusible interfacing and learn how to stabilise the major areas of the jacket to get a professional finish. Then you will make a double welt pocket, mitre the corner of a sleeve hem and learn just how to get the perfect notch on a collar. You will also learn the difference between sleeve heads, shoulder pads and sleeve rolls. The class includes lots of tips and tricks for marking, basting and sewing tailoring fabric. Worksheets will be provided for future reference. Cost: £100 27TH APRIL Make a pair of capri trousers with Paul from TGBSB (Mostyn) As featured in season 3 of The Great British Sewing Bee, these cotton trousers
17TH MARCH Introduction to sewing machines Learn the basic skills of using a sewing machine. You can then sign up for any other sewing classes. Cost: £20 24TH MARCH Craft Saturday Bring along your craft projects to work on in a sociable environment. Buffet lunch included – please advise of any special dietary needs prior to the day. Cost: £12.50
are well-fitted and can be made to suit whatever length you want. You will learn how to fit a zip, waist darts, French seams and waistband fitting with an option of facing or bias binding. A lovely comfortable summer standard that could be adapted to a heavier weight fabric for cooler weather. Cost: £45 23RD MAY Sewing club (Altrincham) Are you struggling with a pattern? Do you need help with a sewing technique or guidance with fitting issues? If so, bring your project and sew for the day with others and enjoy expert help on hand. Whether you are making trousers, a dress or a jacket, Celia will help you create a garment to be proud of. Cost: £25 W WW.SEWNOWMAG.CO.U K
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Master your
machine
Each machine model offers a range of features and functions, but all have the fundamental elements in common. Use this handy guide and you’ll know your way around yours in no time 1
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THREAD GUIDES
1
Two threads make up each stitch – the top thread and the bobbin thread. The top thread from the spool of cotton passes through the thread guide, which regulates the tension of the thread before it’s fed through the needle.
SPEED CONTROLLER
2
A slider that sets the speed the machine will work at when the pedal is pressed, allowing control and precision when sewing.
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REVERSE FUNCTION
3
Use this to set the machine working in a reverse direction, to move backwards across a stitched line. This function is used when securing the threads at the start and end of a line of stitching.
3
NEEDLE AND NEEDLE CLAMP
4
The needle is removable to allow you to select from a variety of types and sizes to suit your project. The needle is held in place by the clamp. Most machines include a tool for tightening and loosening the clamp to access the needle.
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PRESSER FOOT LIFTER
5
For lifting and lowering to hold the fabric in place while you sew. Release it to remove the fabric from the machine.
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BOBBIN CASE
6
Inside the removable cover is the bobbin case, which houses the bobbin. The bobbin is wound with thread and provides the second thread for each stitch.
FEED DOGS
7
These moving parts lie underneath the needle plate. With spiked teeth that protrude from the opening, these help to move the fabric through the machine.
8
PRESSER FOOT PRESSURE DIAL
9
Used for releasing/increasing the weight of the foot on the fabric, for example when working appliqué. You can release the pressure to enable you to turn the fabric smoothly.
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5 7
8
6
NEEDLE PLATE
The metal plate directly below the needle and presser foot. The small opening allows the thread from the bobbin to pass through while the needle enters to make the stitches. On the plate are guide markings to assist straight sewing and measure seam allowances.
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“If you're struggling with the threading on a new machine, practise with red thread until you get the hang of it”
Jeanette
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TUTORIAL BOBBIN WINDER
Trouble with tension?
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Winds thread from the cotton spool onto the bobbin, ensuring that the thread is fed evenly onto the bobbin and maintains the correct tension.
Check that both the machine and bobbin are correctly threaded. If these aren't exactly right, this can cause incorrect tension. Also check that the thread on the bobbin is wound correctly. If it's too tight or too loose, it won't feed through the machine and make even stitches. Another good tip is to use the same thread in the machine and the bobbin – even slightly di�erent threads can unbalance the tension
SPOOL HOLDER
11
This pin runs through the centre of a spool of thread, allowing it to feed smoothly through the machine.
SCREEN
11
12
Displays the relevant information regarding the stitch style, width and length that has been selected.
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HAND WHEEL
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12
13
2
Manually operates the mechanics of the machine, moving the needle up and down and engaging the feed dogs. Newer, computerised machines also have a needle up/ down button which can be programmed to stay in the down position – ideal for pivoting on corners.
STITCH SELECTOR
15
14
Allows you to select from the di�erent stitches on the machine and includes a menu from which you make your selection. The stitch is selected by pressing the relevant button and the number will appear on the screen.
STITCH LENGTH AND STITCH WIDTH SELECTORS
15 14
Use to increase or decrease the length or width of your stitch. The shorter the stitch, the more stitches are worked across the line of sewing, making it stronger. The width applies to stitches where the needle moves from left to right, such as a zigzag stitch. Adjusting the width button will also move the needle position, which is important when sewing in zips and piping etc.
FREE ARM
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This is a narrower working space created when the accessory box is removed. This is perfect for sewing smaller items or inserting sleeves.
ACCESSORY DRAWER
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Use to store alternative presser feet, spare bobbins and maintenance tools.
START/STOP BUTTON
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This allows you to operate the machine without the foot pedal.
THREAD CUT BUTTON
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This will cut the threads after sewing and is highlighted in the screen with the thread cutter mark. W WW.SEWNOWMAG.CO.U K
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IN THE NEXT ISSUE OF
YO U R WAY S E W I N G YO U R ST Y L E , Easy lace sweatshirt
FREE 6-IN-1 dress, skirt, top, jacket and trousers pattern Anneka tunic in sizes 6-20
Zippered crossbody bag
UK SIZES 6-22
See page 22 for details of how to subscribe
Patchwork hanging pouch
ISSUE 19 ON SALE 29TH MARCH 2018 EDITORIAL Editor Sam Sterken Editorial Assistant Lorna Malkin Senior Art Editor Sher Ree Tai Art Editors Craig Chubb, Andrew Baird Senior Sub-Editor Justine Moran Sub-Editors Kayleigh Hooton, Chantelle Salkeld Senior Product Photographer Tym Leckey Photographers Renata Stonyte, Amy Worrall Contributors Juliet Bawden, Shari Butler, Laura Casey, Debbie von Grabler-Crozier, Fiona Hesford, Wendy Gardiner, Claire Garside, Lisa Lam, Amanda Russell, Tilly Walnes ADVERTISING Senior Account Manager Noune Sarkissian noune.sarkissian@practicalpublishing.co.uk Advertising Consultant Amanda Paul amanda.paul@practicalpublishing.co.uk PUBLISHING Group Buying Manager Olivia Foster Buying Assistant Rachael Edmunds Production Executive Anna Olejarz Distribution Manager Lauren Murray Subscriptions Manager Daniel Tutton Head of Design, Photography & Video Jennifer Lamb Managing Editor Kate Heppell Head of Content & Positioning Gavin Burrell Head of Softcrafts Ruth Walker Financial Director Chris Dunbar Strategy & Insights Director Dave Cusick Managing Director Danny Bowler Group Managing Director Robin Wilkinson Subscription enquiries 01858 438899 practicalpublishing@subscription.co.uk Other enquiries 0844 561 1202 customerservice@practicalpublishing.co.uk DISTRIBUTION Seymour Distribution Ltd CONTACT Practical Publishing International Ltd, Suite G2 St Christopher House, 217 Wellington Road South, Stockport SK2 6NG info@practicalpublishing.co.uk www.practicalpublishing.co.uk Tel: 0844 561 1202 Fax: 0161 474 6961 Sew Now (ISSN: 2398-9610) is published by Practical Publishing Int Ltd. All material © Practical Publishing Int Ltd. The style and mark of Sew Now is used under licence from Practical Publishing International Holdings Ltd. No material in whole or in part may be reproduced without the express consent of Practical Publishing Int Ltd. The publisher welcomes contributions from readers. All such contributions and submissions to the magazine are sent to and accepted by the publisher on the basis of a non-exclusive transferable worldwide licence unless otherwise agreed in writing prior to first publication. Such submissions are also subject to being used, reproduced, modified, published, edited, translated, distributed and displayed in any media or medium, or any form, format or forum now known or hereafter developed, for any purpose, in perpetuity. DISCLAIMER The views expressed by contributors are not necessarily those of the publisher. Every care is taken to ensure that the contents of the magazine are accurate, but the publisher accepts no responsibility for errors. While reasonable care has been taken when accepting advertisements, the publisher cannot accept responsibility for any resulting unsatisfactory transactions, but will investigate any written complaints. Stock images provided by Shutterstock Inc
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INTERVIEW
5 minutes with…
Celia Banks Celia Banks took time out from her busy schedule to chat to Sew Now about her career in sewing You have a wealth of experience in the sewing industry, can you tell our readers a little bit about your background and what inspired you to start sewing? Celia I come from a long line of dressmakers and grew up with sewing always going on around the home. I had sewing lessons for two years at school but unfortunately was not able to study needlework to exam level so have been mainly self-taught. I can’t remember a time when I didn’t sew most of my own clothes, and I made a wedding dress for a neighbour when I was just 19. In later life I gained City & Guilds Level 2 in Tailoring and Lingerie and then quali�ed as a specialist �tting teacher with Pati Palmer of Palmer/Pletsch in Oregon. Since 2011 I have been fortunate enough to take couture workshops with Claire Shae�er in Palm Springs. You have a very busy schedule teaching around the UK and running Sewfest events in Denmark, how often do you �nd time to sew for yourself? I always seem to have about half a dozen projects on the go but rarely get a
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concentrated period for personal sewing. I am often able to use my personal projects as teaching points so all my projects are at di�erent stages of completion. A lot of couture work is hand sewing and I can sometimes �nd time to do that in the evenings, and I can enjoy listening to audiobooks while I sew.
“I can’t remember a time when I didn’t sew most of my own clothes” Are you working on anything in particular at the moment? Yes, I am trying to use up my rather enormous stash and sew things before the new season is upon us. I have a couple of skirts on the go and a classic jeans jacket, both using fabric from www.sto�stil.co.uk You’ve studied and worked with Claire Shae�er for some time, what have learned? It has been such a wonderful experience. I have studied with Claire each year since 2011 and have had the privilege of being one of her classroom assistants for the last three. It was wonderful to be able to
examine genuine couture garments from the 1950s onwards and then learn how to replicate them. Overall it has taught me to slow down and take more time to enjoy the sewing experience. I now prefer to make fewer items but use better quality fabric and not rush the job. What is on your sewing schedule for the year ahead? I will be running a variety of workshops at the Abakhan stores in Mostyn in North Wales and Altrincham in Greater Manchester ranging from teaching absolute beginners to use a sewing machine, through to advanced couture classes and specialist �tting courses available for people who want to know how to make any commercial sewing pattern �t their body. I will be teaching lots of masterclasses at the Janome UK centre in Stockport in Greater Manchester, including making and using half-scale dress forms. Later in the year I will be hosting a sewing retreat in Carlisle.
Keep an eye out for Janome masterclasses at www.janome.co.uk
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