december 2013
NEW best ever 26 ROUTE CARDS!
walks from around the uk inside!
✓ compact n ✓ clear directions n ✓ OS Maps n ✓ tough n
issue 322 winter walking weekends ◆ the sugar loaf ◆ marlborough downs ◆ tyneham ◆ satellite navigation ◆ new zealand
www.livefortheoutdoors.com
b r i ta i n ’ s b e s t- s e l l i n g wa l k i n g m a g a z i n e
10
gREAT walks & PLACES TO STAY
Festive walking weekenders
◆ Lake district ◆ Yorkshire Dales ◆ Peak District ◆ cotswolds ◆ snowdonia ◆ west highlands & more...
in search of doctor who in the wilds of wiltshire
wales’ secret mountain
W h at m a k e s t h e S u g a r loa f s o s p e c i a l?
D-DAY IN DORSET wal k t h r ou g h T h e v i lla g e w h e r e C h r i s t m a s wa s cancelled
Handheld or Smartphone? h ow to b u y a g p s plus: is A tablet the ultimate navigation device? december 2013 £3.99
PLUS: Inspired stocking fillers ◆ Walker’s Guide to New Zealand ◆ Essential kit for winter walks
The View
news an d e v ents f rom the worl d o f walking
1,300 MILES ACROSS THE PEAK DISTRICT
PICTURE PERFECT ON PEN Y FAN
A ‘WALK OF ART’ IN THE LAKE DISTRICT
pag e 1 0
pag e 12
pag e 14
NEWS
Lavish landscapes The annual Landscape Photographer of the Year awards yielded the customary collection of jaw-dropping images. Here we round up some of the very best entries…
W
HEN confronted by such a smorgasbord of sensational images, it’s easy to conclude that the landscape photographer’s job is one of the best on the planet. But this wonderful gallery of stunning pictures represents only the tiniest tip of a very substantial iceberg. The fraction of a second when the shutter closes to capture an award8 Country Walking december 2013
winning image is an infinitesimal fraction of the time it takes to get the sort of image that wins its creator the prestigious title of Landscape Photographer of the Year. The awards celebrate the landscapes of the United Kingdom, showcasing our richly diverse country through the work of both amateur and professional photographers. From salt marshes, chalk cliffs and ancient woodland, to historic villages, parklands and the iconic structures of
Britain’s industrial and urban landscapes, these awards aim to highlight the connection between people and landscape. Shortlisted entrants will have spent hours poring over maps and days researching and recce-ing potential locations before taking a single shot. As any long-suffering landscape photographer will tell you, this usually involves miles of hiking over inhospitable terrain – often in appalling weather.
It’s then a case of waiting… sometimes for days on end, for that perfect moment to materialise. Often returning, tired, cold and wet without having pressed a shutter in anger. This year’s winner, Tony Bennett from Derby, rose before dawn to take his winning shot at an incredibly evocative Crummock Water, in the Lake District. “The photograph was taken during those magical minutes of an autumn dawn when the rising sun began striking through the tops of trees and breaking through to the surface of the lake,” said Tony. “Every second the scene was changing, creating a hundred memorable images, but this moment particularly caught my attention. The still night mist began rolling and tumbling, as if in protest, as the heat of the sun vaporised and dispersed it forever. Within a minute it was over: a moment in time, never to be repeated but always remembered.”
pOUR
FAVOURITE
Parkhouse and Chrome Hill, Peak District, Derbyshire. © Steve Tucker
t and the
wINNER IS:
Mist and Reflections, Crummock Water, Cumbria. © Tony Bennett
WANT TO SE E MORE IMAG E S LI KE TH E SE? Photography enthusiasts can see all the winning entries plus a selection of the judges favourite images in an exhibition at the National Theatre opening on December 7th. Details on 020 7452 3400/www.nationaltheatre.org.uk/exhibitions. uFor those who can’t make it to the exhibition, a 224-page coffee table book, Landscape Photographer of the Year: Collection 7 is available from AA Publishing at: theAA.com/shop, price £25.
december 2013 Country Walking 9
Wonderful winter
walking weekends
As winter’s icy gown descends over the countryside, freezing the ground solid and glazing the trees with a million twinkling crystals, make the most of this sparkling winter wonderland by planning a weekend walking adventure now. W o r d s : m a r k s u t c l i f f e & j e n n y wa lt e r s
T 22 Country Walking december 2013
december 2013 Country Walking 23
Photo: jamespictures
The snow lies deep and crisp and even in the Peak District’s Wolfscote Dale where the River Dove flows below Peaseland Rocks. Turn to p31 to find out more.
he great indoors can be an appealing place when it’s cold outside, with its toasty log fires, cosy sofas and steaming hot baths. Yet staying inside all winter means missing the great outdoors at its very best, dressed in a glittering finery of hoar frost and snow beneath skies of deepest blue. You only have to take a look at any landscape photographer’s portfolio to see how the fiery dawns and sunsets, the golden mists and sparkling light bring an intense beauty to the British countryside. And the best thing is, that many people are reluctant to leave the fireside so the busy honeypots of summer are blissfully quiet and the hotels and holiday cottages are a bargain. Read on to discover ten top walking weekends across the nation where both the outdoors and the indoors are magical and you can enjoy big mountains and deep bathtubs, wild coast and four-poster beds, sweet hills and mouthwatering food... u
d e s ti n ati o n s Loc ation nam e
D-Day in Dorset
Seventy years ago, the 225 inhabitants of Tyneham in south Dorset packed their bags and left, never to return. Today, only the abandoned landscape is left to tell the story‌
40 Country Walking december 2013
lost nam world d e s ti n ati o n s LoqcThe ation e
This spectacular section of the Jurassic Coast was closed to the public for 32 years, but visitors can now glimpse its rare beauty during weekends and public holidays.
t an iconic summit
pictorial guide
The striking cone of the Sugar Loaf has led many to think it might be an extinct volcano. Sadly not; it’s a heap of pure sandstone left behind when a retreating glacier split around it.
THE
Photo: © Chris Howes Wild Places Photography/Alamy
SUGAR LOA F High above Abergavenny at the southern gateway to the Brecon Beacons, this hidden peak must count as one of the finest little mountains in Britain. Here’s your complete visual guide to the hill and how to walk it. Words: nick hallissey
50 Country Walking december 2013
december 2013 Country Walking 51
on the trail of
t h e T I M E LO R D As Doctor Who celebrates its 50th anniversary, we revisit the location where the BBC filmed one of the Doctor’s greatest adventures for a spine-tingling walk back in time... words: nick hallissey
uALDBOURNE , WILTSHIRE The beautiful village of Aldbourne was the setting of a bizarre alien invasion in the classic Doctor Who adventure The Daemons, in which Jon Pertwee faced off against horned giants and his old nemesis, The Master.
december 2013 Country Walking 59
wa lk e r s ’ g u i d e N ew Zealan d
The Land of the
Long White Cloud
Few countries on Earth (or Middle Earth) can compare with New Zealand. Here’s why the wild wonderland down under tops many walkers’ bucket list and six of its very best trails...
I
t’ll be quicker to get the bad news about New Zealand out of the way first: 11,000 kilometres is a long way to go. Now that’s done, we can get to the good news: New Zealand is awesome. It’s only small – a shade bigger than Britain – yet it jams in every kind of scenery as if a walker with a wish list had ticked off lush green hills, deep fjords, high Alpine mountains, hot pools, fuming volcanoes, mighty glaciers, dense rainforest and golden beach. Its two main islands – North and South – are surrounded by smaller ones, and the archipelago sits in a remote spot in the south-western Pacific Ocean, a thousand kilometres from its nearest neighbour. Its isolation means the country is home to a strange and wonderful panoply of endemic species including the flightless kiwi and plump kakapo, and the mischievous Alpine parrot, the kea. People first arrived 800 years ago when the Māori journeyed by canoe from Polynesia and named the
country Aotearea – Land of the Long White Cloud. The first European explorer to see the islands was Abel Tasman in 1642; the first to land was Captain James Cook in 1769 and New Zealand is now home to 4.5 million people. That’s not many for a country this size – compare it with the UK’s 63 million – which means there’s a whole lot of wilderness for walkers to explore. And New Zealanders love their outdoors; 12,000 kilometres of track criss-cross the country and 1,000 backcountry huts offer overnight shelter where you can watch the Southern Cross kindle out of the deeply dark sky. It’s friendly too – we know our sides ached with laughter as much as our legs ached from climbing to the chin-scraping views. You could happily walk here for a year but for those with a bit less time – three or four weeks say – we’ve picked the finest of the nation’s famous trails and locals’ favourites. Pick and mix the ones you like or pack them all into one unforgettable trip… u
A view worth travelling for: trampers at Sealy Tarns in the Southern Alps with Aoraki/ Mount Cook on the skyline. photo: Preben arentoft
december 2013 Country Walking 69
b u y i n g g u i d e yo u r wi nter war d ro b e
comp l e t e me n’s ou t f it OUR TESTER Andy Cremin is a hugely experienced gear expert who has written for a host of magazines and websites, and is the former gear editor of CW. For this test he had additional input from current gear editor Nick Hallissey and routes editor Rachel Broomhead who modelled the outfits and advised on fit and comfort.
Are you ready for winter?
W
inter walking really is all about staying comfortable. On a summer’s day the costs of not getting your gear right can be simply measured in sweat and scent. In winter, getting it wrong could be a bit more serious than that. The number one priority is staying comfortably warm: too hot can be as bad as being too cold, with cooling sweat causing the body to chill down too far once your effort levels fall. A typical scenario which will be familiar to all hillwalkers involves labouring up a steep incline and overheating and then really feeling the chill on an exposed summit as your perspiration rapidly cools. The trick to maintaining comfortable levels of warmth revolves around layering. By wearing several thinner layers of clothing, you can regulate your temperature. As you warm up, you can simply remove a layer. If you find yourself too cold, simply throw another on. We’ve set out complete his and hers winter wardrobes. Most walkers will already have many of these items, so it’s simply a case of topping up their wardrobe for winter. But for absolute beginners, after a decent pair of boots, a good base-layer and a breathable outer shell are essential.
WARM Hat
OUTER JACKET
Mid-layer
Base-layer
A lot of heat is lost through your head, so keeping it warm remains a priority. A subtle beanie is often fine, but a bit more sophistication will really ensure you keep the balance between warmth and breathability. The Lowe Alpine Mountain Cap (£30) is a classic design with clever touches that really make it suitable for a range of conditions. The fold-up ear flaps protect your ears when necessary, the peak deflects rain, hail, snow or even sunshine, and the whole thing is lined with Gore-Tex to make it waterproof while staying breathable. lowealpine.com Other good options: Regatta X-ert Mountain Hat (£16), The North Face High Point hat (£28).
A hard-shell jacket will help to keep you warm by blocking the wind and trapping in heat but these can be less breathable. Many people can find the unique way that Páramo clothing works a little too warm at some times of the year, so it is ideal for cooler temperatures. Here we’ve chosen the Heiki jacket, which is costly at £230 but worthwhile for absolute peace of mind. The pump liner under the waterproof outer fabric really helps to drive moisture out of the garment and makes this one of the most breathable jackets on the market. paramo.co.uk Other good options: Jack Wolfskin Mandu jacket (£280), Marmot Nabu jacket (£260).
By mid-layer we mean a warm jacket, either fleece or soft shell, which does the insulating job while the outer waterproof works to keep you dry. When it’s really howling down and bitterly cold, you may need more than a traditional mid-layer to help retain warmth. The Belay Advance from Keela (£73) is ideal. Again it uses man-made lofting fibre from Primaloft to trap warmth without being too big or bulky, so it will sit comfortably under an outer jacket when it’s wet out. keela.co.uk Other good options: Mammut Ultimate Advanced jacket (£200), Salomon Darbon Stretch jacket (£100).
A decent base-layer is your first line of defence against the elements. Not only will it add some warmth to your outfit but it will, more crucially, draw moisture away from the skin and reduce the risk of you becoming chilled by sitting moisture. The NTS top from SmartWool (£85) is made from merino wool which has great wicking and antibacterial properties which cancel out unpleasant odours. The medium weight of the fabric means it also functions well in more temperate climes, meaning it adapts for year-round use. smartwool.com Other good options: Odlo Warm half-zip (£55), Bergans of Norway Fjellrap half-zip (£55).
WINTER Boots
Socks
A stiff full-leather walking boot will see you through the harsher months of the year, and will cope with heavy rain, ice and wet rock much more comfortably and robustly than a fabric boot. The Scarpa SL Activ (£230) is a classic of the genre, with a tough 2.7-2.9mm thick leather upper. It’s lined with Cocona technology which attracts humidity vapour and absorbs your body heat. The stiff design gives them good support on rougher terrain and also means you can slip on a pair of crampons should you really feel the need. scarpa.co.uk Other good options: Zamberlan Vioz Plus (£175), Brasher Ahklun GTX (£175).
Warm socks are a must, but what about fighting off the wet stuff? Even the best boots and socks will occasionally be susceptible to water ingress if you’re doing a sustained moorland walk in the rain. So consider socks which are built to survive a wetting. SealSkinz lead this market and their Mid-Weight Mid-Length sock (£30) uses a waterproof and breathable membrane to stay dry. Not only will the lining keep your feet dry on wet terrain, but it will also help keep your tootsies warm in the cold. women’s winter gear sealskinz.com over the Other good options: Lorpen page Midweight Hiker (£17), Brasher Hillmaster (£15).
Trousers
Winter safety essentials u PHONE Always have a charged phone with you in case of emergencies. In an emergency, dial 999 and ask for police.
Gloves
u EXTRA FOOD More calories are needed in cold weather – pack additional supplies of chocolate, nuts and dried fruit.
u HAT AND GLOVES The easiest way to warm up quickly – they also take up very little room in your pack. uTORCH & BATTERIES Don’t get caught out by the shorter days – a torch is vital to find your way or signal for help.
78 Country Walking december 2013
Photos: tom bailey
u EXTRA LAYERS Take more layers than you think necessary. If you have to stop – wrap up before the cold creeps in.
Gloves are essential if you plan on walking without your hands in your pockets for any length of time. You also want a pair that allows you to stay reasonably dexterous so you can access items from your rucksack, check compass or GPS, or use your camera. Our recommendation is the Prism glove from Montane (£35). These Primaloft-insulated gloves use man-made insulation so they stay warm even if wet (natural down loses its heat more quickly in rain) and they pack down into a tiny stuff-sack for storage. montane.co.uk Other good options: Black Diamond Pilot glove (£45), Outdoor Designs Bora (£18).
A decent pair of walking trousers is, as you might expect, essential. Fitting with the layering concept, you don’t really want to be wearing a pair of bulky insulated trousers for most walking in the UK. We recommend the Iceland Pro from Fjällräven (£100), created by Swedish wizards who know a thing or two about dealing with the cold. They use a unique G-1000 fabric that can be made waterproof and windproof with a simple wax application rubbed onto the outside (you will usually be sold the wax either when you buy them in store or online). fjallraven.com Other good options: Rohan Winter Bags (£87), Karrimor Elite Crux trousers (£60).
december 2013 Country Walking 79
b u y i n g g u i d e G P S NAVI GATI O N
The complete guide to GPS
buying advice
features to look for...
GPS is still the biggest source of questions to Country Walking gear experts. So in this special report, we sum up everything you need to know about electronic navigation… THE GPS MARKET has moved – and is moving – at a blinding pace. As the smartphone giants race to create the most seamless interfaces and combine the most products in a single tiny package (including digital navigation), so the dedicated GPS market has either had to leap forward and try to match it, or stick to a product that doesn’t try to emulate a smartphone and stays dedicated to its one major purpose: that of showing you where you are, and where you are going. Which product you choose (and whether you choose a dedicated GPS at all) depends on which of those options you favour. In this report we will consider four of the most reliable GPS units on the market, and four of the most impressive smartphone apps, as well as the protective cases that help to turn the latter into something like the former. We’ll also ask a very big question: is it in fact the tablet, not the phone, that is about to become the ultimate tool for digital navigation?
A NOTE ON ‘ENTRY-LEVEL’ GPS With so much to talk about, we have (this time) held back from reviewing the very basic non-mapping GPS units, such as the Garmin eTrex range. We have reviewed them before and feel their usefulness is well understood. But if you’d like to read up on them, see the reviews at lfto.com/GPS.
ACC U R AC Y
OUR TESTERS Andy Cremin is a hugely experienced gear expert who has written for a host of magazines and websites, and is the former gear editor of CW. For this test he worked with current gear editor Nick Hallissey and editor Mark Sutcliffe to create an in-depth report on the GPS world for walkers.
All GPS units are theoretically accurate to around 15m, and on most models this is much higher (usually around 1m). But if you’re in a built-up area or woodland it will be less reliable (and the unit will take longer to locate you).
M E M O RY Most units will store plenty of routes, tracks and often geocaches in their internal memory, but also have slots for memory cards to add more. Worth asking how many waypoints, routes and tracks a unit will hold before you buy.
batterY LI F E
MAGELLAN EXPLORIST GC
MEMORY-MAP ADVENTURER 3500
SATMAP ACTIVE 10
garmin oregon 600
apps
gps receivers
the products w e tested
OUTDOORS GREAT BRITAIN
viewranger
84 Country Walking december 2013
memory-map
OS MAPFINDER
S C R E E N S I Z E and clarity
robustness
It’s a test you should try before you buy: just how big, and how sharp, is the screen? This is vital on units which use mapping; it gets frustrating if you’re forever zooming in and out to fix your location and objectives. Newer models usually have more pixels, giving a sharper image.
This is the key area where almost any GPS beats a smartphone. Dedicated GPS units are built to be waterproof and shockproof; smartphones will require beefing up with a case (and a case that does both of those things will cost a fair bit).
interface GPS units are operated either by touchscreen or button/joystick. Touchscreens are easier in good conditions (and are the only option on a smartphone), but can be less reliable in rain and impossible with gloves on, while button systems are usually more fiddly. The best test is, how easy is it to plot a route?
EASE OF N AV I G ATI O N Here we mean navigation around the screens and functions of the unit. How many operating screens does your unit have, and how easy is it to switch between them? Almost always confusing at first, but gets easier as you get used to the system.
This is crucial; the last thing you want is for your device to die midway through a big walk. Most devices still guzzle battery (especially a smartphone, if you are using it to track your walk). Check if the device has an internal battery like a lithium-ion one (easy to plug in and recharge) or if it relies on AAs.
compatibility MAPPING Entry-level GPS units are simple location-fixers which show your route or track with no context of what’s around you. Higher-spec units can be loaded with mapping (or come pre-loaded). You’ll pay a premium for Ordnance Survey mapping rather than own-brand topographic maps, but OS remains the best option for obvious walking reasons.
For planning or downloading new routes and archiving the ones you’ve done, you’ll want your device to talk to your PC (or Mac) easily. This is an area where a dedicated unit scores over a smartphone, as they either communicate automatically or via a quick, free software download, whereas downloading to a smartphone is a bit more complicated.
OVER THE PAGE: HAND-HELD GPS UNITS
26 routes with ordnance survey maps
Britain’s best
on
e th e ne r ar e ’ s yo u
Walks
South west South east
midlands
east
North west North east
First frost Rediscover the magic of winter with these 26 brand new walks. Turn the page to get started...
december 2013
Wales
Scotland
Ireland
new format!
doublesided A5 cards
i n si de th i s month . . . Crisp sea views on the South Downs u A wildlife walk in Lincolnshire u Enchanting Bolton Abbey u Skye’s family-friendly paths and many more superb walks... Photo: © Jon Sparks/Alamy
we promise More walks, in more places, than any other magazine!
!