26
pocket-sized route FREE cards with maps! 24-page
overseas WALKING guide
Peak district, lake district, yorkshire, cornwall & more
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b r i ta i n ’ s b e s t- s e l l i ng wa l k i ng m a g a z i n e
Little hills with
massive views Easy walks for short winter days
PLUS
RICHARD HAMMOND
PLAN YOUR WALKING YEAR!
Walk 1,000 miles in 2014
february 2014 £3.99
“My soul belongs in the Lakes”
HarrierS GROUNDED
Michael south downs Morpurgo weekender
Why these iconic birds are fleeing the Forest of Bowland
War Horse writer on Where to walk, eat and the walks he loves sleep – all planned for you
The View
n e w s a n d e v e n t s f r o m t h e w o r l d o f wa l k i n g
Where’s this? Here’s a perfect little ridge for a winter hillwalk, offering easy paths among much loftier hills. But where could it be?
H
ills, water and sky: a perfect partnership, and at their very best on a crisp, winter’s day. Our latest mystery picture has brought us to a modest height on a ridge leading up to bigger peaks for a stunning view over a snaking sheet of water. But where exactly are we? Using your skill and judgement, the more eagle-eyed among you should be able to get to within a few yards of the actual location. Turn to page 85 to find out exactly where this is – and for the winner of the last ‘Where’s this?’ competition, which appeared in our September issue.
take the high road to find this view
HAMMOND hits the slow lane
how to clock up 1,000 MILES this year
pag e 1 0
pag e 13
pag e 15
February 2014 Country Walking 9
Little hills
for short days six little hills with massive views
Winter days burn bright and quick, and often it’s the little hills which make the most of them. We’ve scoured the country and found those special peaks which deliver mountainous views in hill-sized packages. First up, a Yorkshire icon... words: Rachel Broomhead photos: tom bailey
24 Country Walking february 2014
u mini matterhorn It's only 320m tall but Roseberry Topping has all the character of an Alpine giant. Its distinctive shape is owing to the collapse of an ironstone mine on its south-western slope in 1912 (seen on the right here).
last flight of the
s ky da n c e r ? In the Forest of Bowland, an iconic bird of prey is struggling to maintain HIDDEN treasures a foothold. Mark Sutcliffe roams this remote upland wilderness in search of the increasingly scarce hen harrier.
40 Country Walking february 2014
Photos: © Topix/Alamy; © Justin Kase ztwoz/Alamy
I
MAGINE how difficult it would be to rename some of Britain’s most popular brands if the iconic animals associated with them were to die out. Where would confectioners be without penguins or lions to help them move millions of chocolate biscuits every year and what would the WWF do if the panda became extinct? Yet this is precisely the dilemma facing one of England’s most striking landscapes: in just a couple of years, it could be looking for a new logo. The Forest of Bowland supports one of England’s largest populations of hen harriers – large birds of prey which wheel and soar above the moorland and perform a spectacular ‘sky dance’ in late spring – in which they p upland icon exchange tokens of affection in mid-air to attract and then The hen harrier is emblematic of the Forest of bond with their chosen mate. Bowland – adorning the signs which welcome This distinctive raptor adorns the Forest’s official logo, visitors to this remote moorland wilderness. but unless current population trends pick up, the hen harrier could suffer a worse fate than the red kite, osprey and peregrine – all of which were persecuted to the brink of extinction until conservationists stepped in to save them. u
q valley of the
sk y dancer The infant River Hodder tumbles down from the moors towards the Cross of Greet Bridge.
february 2014 Country Walking 41
“Without walking, a lot of my books simply wouldn’t get written.” Award-winning author Michael Morpurgo on walking, writing and War Horse… and where his boots take him.
profile Michael Morpurgo is the award-winning author of over 120 books, including Why the Whales Came, The Butterfly Lion and War Horse. His book Where My Wellies Take Me is a celebration of walking that will have you reaching for your walking boots (or indeed wellies).
p ro f i le M icha e l M orp urgo
I
don’t think I’m the first person to say it, but there are very few problems that cannot be solved with a good walk. But it’s so true. I can’t think of an instance of writer’s block or other creative problem that hasn’t been sorted out by locking it in the house and going out into the Devon countryside around my home. If you have the strength to stand away, get out and hear the swallows and smell the grasses, your mind is utterly transported, and your perspective changes. You divert your attention, your thoughts flow more freely, and you will invariably be surprised by something: a new tangent that helps you around the problem. You come back to it and find you treat it in a whole different way. That has happened more times than I can count. I live in the village of Iddesleigh, about ten miles north of Okehampton. It’s field country rather than upland but that suits me. I mainly do short walks, often just out and back along the Tarka Trail, a longdistance path which comes right through the village, but I will do them in all weathers. What I really enjoy is doing the same walk over and over again and seeing the changing of the seasons. You can wander the River Torridge in early spring and watch the trees greening up, and jolt yourself by remembering how they looked in February. I also like Dartmoor, which isn’t far away. My favourite walk on Dartmoor is Wistman’s Wood, which is the perfect reminder that Dartmoor was once a forest all over. The hand of man has made the moor quite bleak and open, but a pocket of its natural form exists here. It’s very beautiful and, just for a moment, you can be quite completely lost in this tiny bit of ancient forest full of gnarled, stunted oaks and damp lichen, with just the wrens in the trees for company. Connecting with the landscape like that has always been an important part of my work, particularly through the eyes of young people. Most of my books involve a very specific geographical landscape and a
young character walking through it, as War Horse does. But I was able to address it even more directly in a book of poetry that I worked on recently with my wife, Clare, called Where My Wellies Take Me. I’d been asked to create an anthology of countryside verse but I was struggling, because there are so many of them already. I kept thinking, who would buy another one? And why? I knew I had to find another way. At the time, Clare and I were looking back at all the ways we had worked together – she reads and edits for me, and we work together on our charity, Farms for City Children, which helps young people from urban environments to come and experience the countryside. But we had never worked on a book together. So we began it as a story about her, as a little girl, walking in the country. When she was seven her father would take her to the Duke of York pub in Iddesleigh and leave her there with friends for a week at a time. She loved the freedom, and best of all was putting on her wellies and going off wherever they took her; just walking and walking and walking, into
p bestseller
TO box office sensation
War Horse was inspired by a chance meeting at the Duke of York pub in Iddesleigh. It tells the story of Joey, a Devon farm horse who is taken away to the battlefields of the Great War. It has been staged at the National Theatre and became a hit film in 2011, directed by Steven Spielberg.
u
Photos: © Jim Wileman/Alamy; © Pictorial Press Ltd/Alamy; © CBW/Alamy; © John Gregory/Alamy
u on the tr ail OF TARK A I love the footpaths of the Tarka Trail, which winds its way through Devon between the rivers Taw and Torridge. The trail traces the journey taken by the hero of Henry Williamson’s celebrated book, Tarka the Otter.
february 2014 Country Walking 49
48 H
U RS I N t h e …
s o u t h d ow n s Kick off 2014 with a walking weekend in Sussex and discover the hills of Britain’s newest national park in winter whites… W o r d s : j e n n y wa lt e r s
Photos: © James Barrett/alamy; © Travel Pictures/Alamy; tom bailey
gear no-nonsense reviews for real walkers
this just in...
Scarpa bAltOro GTX BOOT £145 our gear tests
SCARPA already deliver hard-wearing boots which also manage to be hugely comfortable for most walkers. So when they claim that the new Gore-Tex-lined Baltoro – an update of their popular but less catchily named ZG65 – is their “most comfortable lightweight boot yet”, it’s worth a look. At the heart of it is the Activ Fit system, which offers plenty of padding and an ergonomic design without adding
too much weight. So while it’s very robust, you’ll find softer material enclosing tender areas such as heel, ankle and Achilles tendon. The padding also keeps the lacing and tongue away from the prominent bones and veins on top of the foot. It’s a narrower fit, so it could be a great option if you have narrow feet and struggle with tender spots or old injuries. scarpa.co.uk
coming up: soft shell trousers ◆ android-powered gps ◆ long-term test
Photo: katie wilkinson
All our gear reviews are tested written by in the real walkers field who try out the kit in real-world conditions over a variety of different landscapes and weather conditions.
Italian masters unveil their “comfiest-ever” lightweight boot…
b u y i n g g u i d e so f t s h ell tro us ers buying advice
Trousers that love a shower
features to look for...
Technical trousers aren’t usually the most stylish examples of outdoor attire but a good pair is your passport to warm, dry and adventurous winter walks… Soft shell trousers were invented on an annoyingly rainy day. You know the type – not quite a downpour, but more than a quick dousing. The kind we have a lot of in Britain. The kind that used to make us stop, heft off the rucksack, dig deep for the unlovely waterproof trousers, and spend minutes fighting to get them on – by which time we’d got wet anyway. Soft shell trousers aim to eliminate that two-layer system. They should survive everything except hours of persistent rain, and some will even survive that. They should also keep high winds and snowy blizzards at bay, and stretch in harmony with your legs, giving you more freedom of movement. But there’s huge variety in the designs and fabrics, and in terms of the balance between comfort, flexibility, robustness and warmth. So read on, and we’ll explain the market and show you what to expect for your cash.
FIT Look for a close, snug fit: the average soft shell fabric is both stretchy and breathable, so a close fit means they will stay comfy and perform well over a wide variety of terrain.
WARMTH
How we did our test We chose eight pairs across a range of budgets. Some have a more casual look, others look and feel a bit more specialised. We tried them on low-level and high-mountain walks, and in rainy conditions from drizzle to downpour (as well as dry days) to see where their limits lay. They’ve been over rock and through mud, scrub and foliage and even through a few banks of thistles, thorns and nettles.
our testers
Soft shell trousers are mainly focused on repelling water, but some will keep you warm too. Trousers that are lined with a warm internal fabric will help keep you toasty on winter walks – but they can make it tricky to vent heat when you need to.
Gear editor Nick Hallissey and feature writer Rachel Broomhead have notched up thousands of miles on foot and understand the importance of good kit at the right price. This test took them to the Lakes, the Howgills, North Wales, the Shropshire Hills and the Pentland Hills near Edinburgh.
men’s styles
t e st ed in the f ie l d thi s month...
Craghoppers Steall £60
Keela Scuffers £70
Rohan Dry Explorers £105
PÁramo Velez Adventure £145
Result R132F Tech Performance £48
Karrimor Elite Transition £60
Columbia BLack Beauty Passo Alto Heat £80
Berghaus Patera £130
NB: We specify the Recommended Retail Price (RRP) for consistency. Discounts may be available online and in stores.
74 Country Walking february 2014
Photos: tom bailey
wo m e n ’ s st y l e s
ANKLE CUFF More relaxed options have regular cuffs with no adjustment. These avoid looking too specialised but they can flap a bit, risking water or mud ingress. Trousers aimed more at hillwalking will have adjustable hems, usually via a zip, Velcro and/or drawcord on the hem. Velcro is most common, as a drawcord needs a pulley fastener which adds weight and can get in the way.
POCKETS
VENTS
Most soft shell trousers skimp on pockets to minimise water ingress; you rarely find anything other than basic hip pockets, and they are usually quite shallow (and sealable with a zip). Very few offer cargo pockets but some may have small pouch-pockets for basic valuables.
These zipped gaps can help you release heat around the thighs – especially useful on sustained ascents on warmer days.
STRETCH The stretchier the face fabric, the more it will move with your legs, allowing them to move more freely on steep ascents or the occasional little scramble. Test the stretchiness by cinching a patch between your fingers and thumbs and pulling them outwards. Stretch tends to add cost, of course – but you might agree it’s worth it.
REINFORCEMENT
WASHING NEEDS Soft shell trousers usually come with specific washing needs due to their DWR (durable water repellent) or other water-resistant coating, which may be a factor if you already resent having to wash waterproofs, baselayers and other specialised items separately. But usually a simple Nikwax or Granger’s washing or reproofing lotion will help make the process simple.
How tough do you need your trousers to be? Some soft shell trousers consist of one moderately robust face fabric; more technical options reinforce the knees, seat and ankles with a tougher fabric to help you tackle rocky or abrasive surfaces – or to resist tears if you use crampons in snow.
turn over to read the tests...
Britain’s Best Walks
Welcome...
south west south east
to Britain’s Best Walks, Country Walking’s fantastic routes section. Packed into the next 30 pages you’ll find 26 day-walks all over Britain, complete with OS maps, step-by-step directions and all the info you need to plan your next adventure outdoors. They’re sorted into nine geographical regions for easy filing: cut them out, collect them and enjoy brilliant walks for years to come.
midlands east North west 26
North east wales Scotland 25
ireland
20 24
Chosen by experts
17
routes you can
19
trust
15
All of our routes are written by local experts with an intimate knowledge of their area. To ensure they’re as easy to follow as possible, we print detailed step-by-step directions as well as an OS map with the route and waypoints marked on it.
18
16 14
10 23 09 07
13
11
22 21
12
08
06
02
There’s a great walk near you... 01 Cornwall Maenporth 02 Devon Welcombe 03 Dorset Broadmayne 04 Hampshire Micheldever 05 East Sussex Firle Beacon 06 Essex Gunpowder Park 07 Shropshire Merrington Green 08 Worcestershire Bredon Hill 09 Staffordshire Froghall 10 Derbyshire Win Hill 11 Rutland Empingham 12 Cambridgeshire Wimpole Estate 13 Norfolk The Wensum Way 92 Country Walking february 2014
challenge walk
family walk
05 03
04
01
14 Greater Manchester Piethorne Valley 15 Lancashire Bowland Knotts 16 Lancashire Whin Fell 17 Cumbria Red Tarn 18 North Yorkshire Kilnsey Crag 19 North Yorkshire Roseberry Topping 20 Northumberland Wether Cairn 21 Powys Brecon 22 Ceredigion Pen y Garn 23 Gwynedd Moel Faban & Moel Wnion 24 Dumfries & Galloway Almorness Point 25 East Lothian Dunbar 26 Highland The Falls of Truim
HOW TO USE YOUR ROUTES
double-sided format
Grade
One route on one card, front and back. Find all the planning information on the front and the map on the back.
Our routes are graded easy, moderate, or challenging, depending on distance, terrain, elevation and ease of navigation. Easy walks are usually short and contour-free. Challenging or extreme routes require fitness and map-reading skills.
walk information An estimate of how long the route will take, based on a pace of about two miles per hour, with allowances made for slower, hilly routes.
Maps
our experts
The red route marked is the one to follow. Maps are based on Ordnance Survey Landranger (1:50,000) and Explorer (1:25,000) maps and each square represents 1km x 1km. It’s essential to take the relevant Ordnance Survey map with you (we recommend the Explorer series) in case you get lost and leave the area covered by our map.
All of our routes are written by experienced and knowledgeable walkers who are experts at finding the best walks possible, and describing them clearly and accurately.
gradient profile You can check the ascent and descent (hilliness) of the route with a quick glance at this new gradient profile.
✁
cut-out and-keep Cut out your routes and file by region, building your own collection month-bymonth.
trailzilla id Country Walking uses Memory-Map digitalmapping software to create our routes. You can use this unique number code to download and print the route.
route updates Please check here every month to keep up to date with our published walks. We’ll print any rights of way issues, path closures or corrections. If you’ve encountered a problem with any Country Walking routes, please send your updates to us at: cwroutes@bauermedia.co.uk
uSedlescombe, East Sussex August 2011, Route 6 POINT 2: There is a path diversion in place about 100 yards before the instruction “at field corner, cross stile and footbridge.” However, it does lead back onto the route so it can be followed until it rejoins the path.
Abbreviations We have abbreviated left to L and right to R.
more great routes online! Download and print this month’s walks and many more at trailzilla.com uRead how to do this at the end of the routes section on page 121.
subscribe & get a compass & MaP case worth £48 turn to page 38 for full details
february 2013 Country Walking 93