November 2012
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32-page guide
gear awards special the best kit from 2012 PLUS £1000 of winning gear to be won!
issue 308 secret lake district | britain’s best coast weekends | cadair idris | GPS Total guide | photography masterclass | david hempleman
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Britain’s best-selling walking magazine
Brecon Beacons Why the Hay Bluff Horseshoe is Britain's finest ridge-walk
Watership down
Climb the hill that inspired a classic adventure tale
tipsy trails
Walk to Lakeland ales, Scotch whisky and Somerset cider!
new skills
be INSPIRed!
l Spy on James Bond in the Highlands l Walk with wild swans l Conquer the newest hill in Britain!
Cross wild hills with confidence PLUS: Build strong knees in minutes
november 2012 £3.99
Tuscany in a weekend 25 great step-by-step routes Win a week on Skye
theview Miles of ideas for a brilliant month outdoors
N E WS
Britain's newest hill!
Meet Northumberlandia, the Goddess of the North – she's perfect for walkers…
S
he is 1,400ft long, 830ft wide, and her breasts swell almost 100ft into the sky. She is the Goddess of the North, the “world’s largest human landform”. Named Northumberlandia, the reclining female figure is set for a grand public opening on October 20th. She has been sculpted from 1.5 million tonnes of rock and earth in Cramlington, north of Newcastle. Her creation was part of the planning permission for a 6 COUNTRY WALKING NOVEMBER 2012
new open-cast mine, and her raw materials are the by-product of the mining operation. The effect is to create a miniature chain of artificial hills, complete with four miles of mazy footpaths which offer walkers big views west across the Cheviot Hills. The audacious figure, larger than seven football pitches, has cost £3 million to create, and American landform artist Charles Jencks hopes she’ll become as famous as the Angel of the North.
The statuseque outline of the reclining goddess. Inset: The swirling curves of Northumberlandia, as seen from the sky.
He says her curvaceous lines were partly inspired by the distant Cheviots: “The idea of borrowing the landscape, and miniaturising it, is an old one, although not quite as old as relating landforms to our bodies – humans have been doing this for thousands of years." For his next trick, Jencks is working on a £3 million landmark for the Scottish border, near Gretna, which again will be designed to be walked all over. Still in development, the ‘Star of Caledonia’ is a spiral hill topped by a giant star sculpture, 60m high and illuminated at night. Visiting Northumberlandia is free (northumberlandia.com). from the A1068 near the Snowy Owl pub (NZ240770).
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Photos: Banks Group
WALK HERE! There’s a car park, but you can also use the footpath running west
DESTINATIONS | WATERSHIP DOWN
On
Watership Down
In November 1972, Richard Adams’ tale about the heroic journey of a band of rabbits gripped the nation. Forty years later, we trace the paw-prints of Fiver, Hazel and Bigwig through the Hampshire countryside – and talk to Richard Adams about how his novel began. Words: Jenny Walters Interview: Nick Channer Photos: Tom Bailey
Leafy green woodland on the slopes of Watership Down.
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WALKS TO DO BEFORE YOU DIE
Edge of Glory HAY BLUFF HORSESHOE, HEREFORDSHIRE/POWYS
Toeing the line between Wales and England in the Brecon Beacons, Rachel Broomhead finds herself in the best of both worlds. Photos: Tom Bailey
DESTINATIONS | HEREFORDSHIRE/POWYS
I
F I DIDN’T know any better, I’d say I was on a movie set. It’s early morning and I’m walking in slow motion above the clouds, up the most beautiful ridge I’ve ever seen. In slow motion because I’m savouring every frame of this cinematic view, inching along like a befuddled tourist at the Uffizi. That said, the hill’s pretty steep, too. Striding Edge? Crib Goch? I hear you ask. Nope. I said I’m walking, not clinging onto a piece of granite by my fingertips as I stare into the abyss below. No, this little beauty goes by the name of Cat’s Back and, like its fellow feline crest in the Lake District, Cat Bells, it rewards the walker with stupendous panoramas without scaring the living daylights out of them. The Cat’s Back ridge, also known as Black Hill or
Crib y Garth, rather fittingly teeters on a knife-edge itself. Ten miles south of the literary haven of Hay-onWye, it’s balanced artfully on the border between England and Wales, right on the eastern fringe of the Brecon Beacons National Park. If we have to get down to the cold, hard facts, we’re technically in Herefordshire right now. But, with no disrespect to that fair English county of milk and honey (and, most importantly, cider), this scene is outperforming its West Midlands postcode. Reaching the crest of the ridge now, I can see the long, angular spine of Cat’s Back slinking off into the misty horizon, rising out of the valleys to form a delicious peak, like a solid, grassy bar of Toblerone. To my right, the ground falls away towards England »
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KNOWLEDGE | NAVIGATION
How to…
Cross wild hills
A little bit of extra skill with a map can unlock stunning scenery and make you feel more confident as a walker. Lazy navigator Nick Hallissey teams up with a proper expert to learn what textbooks could never teach him… Photography: Tom Bailey
I
T’S A HELL of an admission for someone in my position, but me and emergency navigating have never got on. I’m fine for the basics and the planning, but when things go wrong, I’m a bit at sea. And I’m spoilt by the fact that my regular companion, our photographer and tamed wildman Tom Bailey, is really good at it. Any time we realise we’ve gone wrong, he’s there with map and compass, wittering off bearings and magnetic variation, computing mileage by hayseed and navigating via sparrowhawks. The problem is, he just does it too quickly (and impatiently) for me to keep up.
THE EXPERT Mark Reid is the author of the Inn Way Guides, linking the pubs of our national parks with great walks. A qualified Mountain Leader, he also runs navigation courses for all abilities and provides team-building walks for business groups via his teamwalking website. A regular writer for CW's routes section, Mark is also the coordinator of the Boots & Beer Walking Festival in his beloved Yorkshire Dales. innway.co.uk, teamwalking.co.uk
48 COUNTRY WALKING NOVEMBER 2012
When I’m alone or leading friends, I can sort myself out – but it takes a long time, a lot of brain-pain, and the kind of frustration with my inadequacy that used to make me throw algebra textbooks at the wall. I also know that it’s not just about rescuing myself. A competent navigator can unlock whole new worlds by deliberately going off the beaten track, and I’ve always looked with envy on those who can disappear into the wilderness in confidence, rejoicing in the beautiful logic of compass-work, pacing and bearings, and delighting in the skill of DIY GPS. So it’s simple: what I need is an expert who can talk slowly. »
Wide open spaces: Mark Reid, left, with heroic hound Elvis, takes Nick to England's wild heart. PLEASE NOTE: ELVIS IS NOT MILLIE!
NOVICE NAVIGATOR
Nick knows his way around a map, but when things go wrong he gets flustered and relies on his mate. Sound familiar?
SADDLEWORTH MOOR
An expanse of ecologically diverse upland adjoining Black Hill on the border of Kirklees and the Peak District.
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Welcome to the
COUNTRY WALKING GEAR REVIEWS We always feel a sense of anticipation as we slip into autumn and, eventually, winter. There is something about being in the hills on a crisp, cold day that just can’t be beaten; and in a strange way, there’s also something rewarding about being out there battling against the elements. Just ask Ranulph Fiennes. But to survive the season, it’s essential to have a good waterproof, and that’s where we train our sights this month, with a round-up of 14 jackets that will make even the worst winter days feel that little bit better. We also take a look at windshirts – garments that can make you feel more comfortable at any time of the year. And the ‘Gear Doctor’ offers his wisdom on capes, breeches and boot-fitting for diabetics. Enjoy the weather!
Tom Hutton & Steph Duits Country Walking gear testers
CONTENTS Men’s waterproof jackets ..........page 58 Women’s waterproof jackets ...page 60 Six of the best windshirts .........page 62 Gear Doctor ...........................................page 63 Long-term test ....................................page 64 Plus... CW's Gear Awards for 2012!
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Waterproofs AS THE DAYS GET colder (and dare we suggest wetter), you’re likely to spend more time wearing your waterproof and less time carrying it. Suddenly the emphasis shifts: weight and packability are less of an issue; comfort, protection from the elements and durability become the new wish list. Of course, breathability is still key – perhaps more so if you are wearing your jacket all day, but today even the heaviest jackets come tailored for good venting, to keep perspiration down. Other features you’ll be thankful for include extra pockets and fuller hoods with much stiffer peaks.
WHAT TO LOOK FOR... FABRIC The jackets tested in the following pages are all made from waterproof, breathable fabrics. In most cases they feature either a Gore-Tex or eVENT waterproof/breathable membrane, trapped between a face fabric and inner lining – these are known as 3-layer fabrics. There are some 2-layer fabrics too. These differ slightly: instead of an inner fabric bonded to the membrane, they feature a separate lining – usually mesh or similar. The Páramo jacket is different again: it uses a combination of inner and outer fabrics that expel water vapour and a treated outer that blocks rain by repelling it. For total waterproofness, all seams should be taped. When comparing jackets, it’s worth remembering that softer face-fabrics will feel more pleasant and rustle less.
FIT Your jacket should be roomy enough for you to move freely, and should fit over the top of your insulation layers. But it really doesn’t want to be too baggy: this can lead to perspiration condensing inside the jacket before it’s had a chance to escape. It will also make it feel like a wing suit on a windy day.
COLLAR, CUFFS AND HEM Hems are usually longer on this kind of jacket, so they won’t ride up too easily. The sleeves need to be long enough to cover your wrists, with cuffs big enough to go over your insulating layers yet adjustable so that they won’t mind going inside a glove. To prevent water coming in and warm air escaping, the collar should fit snugly beneath or even over the chin – over feels great in really bad weather, but check that it’s got a soft fleecy feel or it will chafe.
MAIN ZIP The main zip needs to be either completely waterproof or protected by a storm flap – an internal or external layer of fabric that prevents ingress through the zip. External storm flaps should fasten securely with Velcro and/ or pop-studs.
HOOD Check that this covers your whole head, wrapping round onto your face; and that it is easy to adjust for a really snug fit. It should be possible to fine-tune the drawcords so that the whole hood moves with you as you turn your head. A wired or stiffened peak will stay put in a strong wind, too.
POCKETS
Photo: Tom Hutton
Check that the main (handwarmer) pockets are high enough to remain accessible when the waist belt on your pack is done up. A pocket big enough for a map or guidebook is particularly useful, as is a zipped one inside for valuables.
BIG WEEKENDS
Tipsy trails
Autumn's in full swing, which means harvest time in the hop farms, barley fields and cider orchards of rural Britain. And whatever your favourite tipple, we've found a bountiful walking break where you can sample the season.
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A shaken-down crop of Katy apples ready to be made into mouthwatering cider at Thatchers in Somerset.
Speyside
Autumn... a brilliant time to Lake District hit the breezy hilltops and put an apple in your cheeks – then retire to a nearby hostelry and Somerset defrost your nose in a glass of something frisky by the fireside. We've planned three walking weekends with a tipsy theme, where you can do just that. One word of warning, though: navigation can get a bit tricky after your fifth pint of Old Leg Over.
THE WEEKENDS 70 THE ALE TRAIL, LAKE DISTRICT With more than 30 little microbreweries now mashing up their own artisan ales, Cumbria has become the beer-lover's capital of Britain. Here's how to sample the best, on a frothing-good weekend in the fells.
74 THE CIDER TRAIL, SOMERSET For autumn in a glass, nothing beats fizzing farmhouse scrumpy tapped straight from the barrel. Our on-foot guide takes you to the finest orchard brews – and don't you dare try putting ice in them!
78 THE WHISKY TRAIL, SPEYSIDE
Photo: Cephas Picture Library/Alamy
Speyside is Scotland turned up to 11 – ripe with salmonfishing and shortbread, plus an all-star cast of famous single malts. This weekend combines a dram or three of the good stuff with walks on the tartan-patterned hills.
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TOTAL GUIDE | TUSCANY
82 COUNTRY WALKING NOVEMBER 2012
TOTAL GUIDE: TUSCANY
On the
grapevine Rachel Broomhead hits the footpaths rather than the bottle, and drinks in the views in Tuscany’s Chianti region.
Clockwise from main picture: a typically idyllic scene in the hills surrounding Greve; Malvasia grapes traditionally make up 15% of Chianti wine; Santa Croce church holds some important art, including a 14thcentury fresco; a doorway in bloom in Montefioralle.
Photos: Travelstock.ca/Alamy; Rachel Broomhead
T
HE CHIANTI REGION is not merely a pretty, wine-producing Mecca for borderline alcoholics. Greve in Chianti, the northern gateway to these famous hills, was also the birthplace of the explorer Giovanni di Verrazzano, whose ocean-hopping exploits included the discovery of New York Bay. Not many visitors have heard of poor old Giovanni, however. They are too busy enjoying the intoxicating red elixir flowing from Tuscany’s famous vines. Like Verrazzano, I am journeying in the spirit of adventure, not inebriation. I’m here to explore the great traveller’s homeland on foot – an intimate, rolling countryside cross-stitched with vines and cypress trees. First of all though, I need to find my way out of Florence. It’s 7pm, I’m hopelessly lost and without a map to my name. The train station is approximately 50 yards to my left and the bus station, my destination, is apparently about 100 yards to my right. A jolly yet imprecise customer service assistant has waved me happily in this direction and a young Florentian couple have told me in broken English that a bus will ‘probably’ come past ‘eventually’. With my thoughts turning rapidly to the red stuff of Chianti, I’m finally led by an amused American couple into an inauspicious passageway and bundled onto a coach. Stepping cautiously onto the dark, quiet streets of Greve an hour later, I stop an elderly gentleman and venture ‘Piazza?’ in a thick, pleading Midlands accent. Miraculously, his whiskered face lights up and, chuckling, he steers me gently down a narrow road. And at last I find myself in the triangular square of Piazza Matteotti, disoriented and five hours late. A statue of Verrazzano judges me silently from the shadows. I might not be a natural-born explorer, but by morning, I don’t care a jot where I go or if I'm lost, so long as I get out in the hills. In the fresh morning light, the Chianti countryside is unfolding vine by vine, villa by villa, like petals turning to the sun. It looks irresistable. Today I’m meeting up with Marco Antonio Pacenti, my guide for the morning and a local walk leader with Discovery Chianti. He greets me, smiling broadly, »