MARCH 2013
AS SEEN ON TV: Dramatic walking weekends in superstar locations www.livefortheoutdoors.com
ISSUE 312 COMPLETE GUIDE TO THE COTSWOLDS | GREAT GABLE | TV LOCATION WALKS | HOW TO GET KIDS WALKING | FLEECE TEST | KILIMANJARO | HELEN SKELTON
BRITAIN’S BEST-SELLING WALKING MAGAZINE
The complete
Cotswolds From world-famous views to well-kept secrets: your ultimate walking guide
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NEW WALKS WITH MAPS THERE'S ONE NEAR YOU!
GET KIDS WALKING
How to make every walk a great adventure
CLARE BALDING
"Take on the biggest challenge walk of 2013"
HELEN SKELTON
"The South Pole is okay... but I prefer the Pennines!"
MARCH 2013 £3.99
Climb Kili
How you can reach the roof of Africa
Lake District icon Take our classic route to the top of Great Gable
l MEN'S & WOMEN'S FLEECES TESTED l THE UK'S BEST CITY WALKS – AS VOTED BY YOU!
theview Miles of ideas for a brilliant month outdoors
t START The zip-wire would swing into action from Black Star cliff face below Fleetwith Pike, just to the left of our image...
N E WS
Lakeland zip-wire plan thrown out again
P
lans for a kilometre-long zip-wire at Honister Slate Mine in the Lake District have been thrown out by the national park’s planning authority. Plans for an even longer aerial runway were refused in 2011, but the mine company resubmitted a new bid for a shorter zip-wire last year. This too has been rejected, on the grounds of its impact on the landscape of Honister Crag and Fleetwith Pike. Supporters of the zip-wire say the site has been in industrial use for hundreds of years and thus could not be “spoilt” by the installation. They also claimed it would bring badly needed revenues from a new and untapped tourism market. The objections were led by the parish councils of Borrowdale and Buttermere and conservation group the Friends of the Lake District. But mountaineer Sir Chris Bonington – vice-president of the Friends –
spoke in favour of the plans, saying the economic boost was vital and the ecological impact minimal. He has now resigned from his role with the Friends. A poll on CW’s Facebook page revealed broad support for the zip-wire. John Turner posted: “The Lake District is gradually getting more and more windfarms, while they continue to discriminate against a viable outdoor attraction on an already established tourist destination and museum site. Shame on them.” But WainwrightWanderings said that the objections of the two parish councils, as the voices of the local community, had to be respected. The mine's owners say they intend to appeal against the decision, so keep an eye on our website lfto.com for developments. You can read the full arguments put by Friends of the Lake District at fld.org.uk
FINISH ...ending at the Honister Slate Mine buildings, a total distance of 1,200m from start to finish.
Jack Ellerby, Friends of the Lake District
Photo: Tom Bailey
The zip-wire conflicts with the national park's planning policies of protecting the spectacular landscape and promoting sustainable tourism. It is wrong for this location.
The complete guide to the
COTSWOLDS It’s England’s largest Area of Outstanding Natural Beauty with 2,000 square kilometres of lush hills and limestone villages, wild escarpments and ancient hillforts. Our local expert, Damian Hall, reveals the best walks and biggest views in this irresistible landscape...
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GORGEOUS WALKS PLUS FULL PLANNING GUIDE
Walk here this weekend – the Gloucestershire village of Snowshill. Photo: Adam Burton/Alamy
GREAT BRITISH CLASSIC
Lakeland’s finest GREAT GABLE, CUMBRIA
Lake District first-timer Rachel Broomhead discovers what she’s been missing with a trip up a walking icon – Great Gable. Photos: Tom Bailey
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The view over Kirk Fell, the High Stile range and Hay Stacks from Great Gable.
BIG WEEKENDS
As seen on TV Three perfectly planned walking weekends in places that became superstars when the TV cameras rolled…
See any fish out of water? Hang around Port Isaac long enough and you might see one in the cantankerous form of Doc Martin…
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"Ooh – where's that, then?" It's a cry that TV location scouts delight in forcing from their audiences, and Downham they're damnably good at it. Great Portmeirion landscapes and quality TV drama have gone hand in hand for years, and this happy marriage has coaxed many Port Isaac walkers off the sofa and into the great outdoors in search of the places they've seen. We've lined up three mini-breaks in three stellar locations, so get your autograph book ready: it's time to meet some superstars…
THE WEEKENDS 50 PORTMEIRION, GWYNEDD The cult classic: This fantasy of architecture on the coastal fringe of Snowdonia was the real star of Sixties confuse-athon The Prisoner, but it has also played host to Doctor Who and Jools Holland. On our weekend you'll explore ‘The Village’ and escape beyond…
56 PORT ISAAC, CORNWALL
Photos: Gary Eastwood Photography/Alamy; nobleIMAGES/Alamy; Colin Bennett /Alamy; Premier/Alamy; Ian Woolcock/Alamy; Andy Stothert
The national treasure: Thanks to its lead role alongside Martin Clunes in Doc Martin, Port Isaac is the star performer of the Cornish coast. On this weekend you can potter among the streets of ‘Portwenn’ and explore one of the finest legs of the South West Coast Path.
60 DOWNHAM, LANCASHIRE The northern star: This multi-talented village in the shadow of Pendle Hill has lent its beauty to several landmark dramas, such as Born and Bred, Whistle Down the Wind and most recently The Secret of Crickley Hall. Come with us and discover its own secrets… MARCH 2013 COUNTRY WALKING 49
Fleeces Welcome to the
COUNTRY WALKING GEAR REVIEWS The mixed weather we’ve experienced this winter has proved ideal for testing clothing, in particular fleeces, which we’ve been able to wear as both mid and outer layers and even against the skin at times. From freezing days in the Mid Wales hills to soggy rambles around the New Forest, neither of us has been seen in much else recently. Our verdict is that fleeces are still one of the most versatile items of outdoor clothing you’ll ever own – but read on to see which ones we liked best. We’ve also had a look at waterproof trousers, and there’s a new boot that aims to catch the ‘crossover’ market...
Tom Hutton & Steph Duits Country Walking gear testers
CONTENTS Men’s fleeces .......................................page 66 Women’s fleeces ...............................page 68 Waterproof trousers ......................page 71 Test winners at a glance .............page 72
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Fleece has had a lot of competition in recent years and you’d be forgiven for believing that the iconic outdoor fabric has finally had its day. But nothing could be further from the truth, as a quick look at the jackets here will prove. The fluffy fabric is still as versatile as anything out there: it copes with just about any weather you can throw at it. And weight- for-weight, it provides bucketloads of warmth without ever compromising breathability. The latest fabrics last longer than their predecessors – and they look better too.
WHAT TO LOOK FOR... FIT Snug is best: too baggy and it doesn’t trap warm air very well; but too tight and you’ll struggle to slip extra layers underneath it in really cold weather.
FABRIC The key thing here is that generally the heavier the fleece – measured in grams per square metre (g/m2 or gsm) – the more insulation it offers. The fleeces tested here range from around 100gsm to 200gsm. Some fleeces have tighter knit fabrics to help resist wind penetration but these shouldn’t be confused with ‘windproof’ fleeces which tend to use less breathable fabrics.
STYLE The fleeces tested are a mix of full-zip and half-zip. As a rule, full-zips work better when they are worn as outer garments but half-zips edge it beneath another layer. Fullzips are obviously easier to get on and off, but half-zips are less bulky and tend to keep the heat in better. Both are pretty versatile, though, and it’s down to personal choice in the end.
MAIN ZIP Good quality zips keep cold air out and are less likely to fail than cheap ones. A decent pull-tab will also make them easier to pull up and down when you are wearing gloves.
POCKETS More important on full-zip fleeces as they are more often likely to be your outer layer. They should be positioned for easy access when wearing a rucksack and zipped for security.
HEM, CUFFS AND COLLAR
Photo: Tom Hutton
These are really your temperature control. An adjustable hem can let heat out or seal it in, as required. Cuffs (ideally elasticated) should be reasonably tight on your wrists, but still ‘give’ enough so you can roll the sleeves up. A snug collar will also keep warmth in. Check the hem covers your lower back and that the sleeves extend beyond your wrists.
KNOWLEDGE | INSPRING LITTLE LEGS
How to…
Get kids walking
How do you get a small person to want to trade a Wii controller for a genuine adventure in the big wide world? Just add thrills, risk – and birds… Words: Nick Hallissey Photography: Tom Bailey
Q
UICK, CALL A doctor – the biggest malaise plaguing our young ones isn’t Norovirus or flu or chicken pox. It’s NDD: Nature Deficit Disorder. Oh, alright: NDD isn’t a recognised medical condition, and you won’t get far trying to sell it to the school secretary. But it’s a handy phrase coined by conservationists to describe the disconnection between today’s children and the world beyond their walls. They are shut off from the countryside, living life on a screen. They don’t know what’s out there. They aren’t interested in it. They’re scared of it. That is, of course, a generalisation, and it’s one that may not apply to your home. You’re a walker; chances are any small people with whom you share a roof are walkers too. But the issue itself is fascinating, and it’s possible you might know a grandchild, niece, nephew or family friend who needs a bit more convincing. So read on, and you can either: a) feel even better about the life you’re giving your offspring; b) find new ways to make the outdoors magical for them; and/or c) be inspired to switch on a new young mind to the wonders of what we do.
LEARNING TO BE BRAVE
“We need our children to climb more trees – and ideally fall out of them,” says psychologist Emma Kenny. “You’ll often find that the cleverest people in any workplace are the ones who fell out of trees as kids. The ones who found out what fear was by reaching for a slightly higher branch, or walking along a precarious clifftop, or 74 COUNTRY WALKING MARCH 2013
OUR EXPERTS Emma Kenny is a psychologist who lends her skills to The One Show and ITV’s Tonight , and was a resident psychotherapist on Big Brother. She’s also a mum-of-two who loves walking and has raised her children in the hills of Greater Manchester. ekenny.co.uk Simon Rummery is a Lead Field Teacher for the RSPB, based in Lincolnshire. A teacher for more than 30 years, he now puts his skills to good use helping children get into bird-watching. rspb.org.uk/getoutdoors
turning over logs to find spiders and woodlice. They’re the ones who know how to manage fear, embrace risk and try what they haven’t done before. In today’s climate these are the commodities that really matter.” Emma knows what she’s talking about. As well as being the go-to thinker for dozens of TV shows, she’s also a mum who has raised her children in the countryside. Now she has teamed up with the RSPB to front a campaign – titled Get Outdoors – which is urging more families to, well, get outdoors. “The childhood playground translates directly to the adult one: being active in the countryside forges resilience and robustness – it makes you better at coping with life,” she says. “It also makes families work properly. If you take the time to have family experiences outdoors, children understand so much better what it’s »
“You’ll often find that the cleverest people in any workplace are the ones who fell out of trees as kids.”
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DESTINATIONS | TANZANIA
TOTAL GUIDE: MOUNT KILIMANJARO
The Roof of Africa
Kilimanjaro is one of the most famous peaks in the world and a trek to its summit is the ultimate hillwalking adventure. Get ready to gasp for adjectives (and oxygen)... Words: Andy Cremin
The view that's graced a million postcards – the iconic, conical outline of Kilimanjaro. Photo: SuperStock
I
’VE ALWAYS HAD a yearning to climb something bigger than a Lakeland summit. The problem is I have no technical mountaineering expertise. In fact, I know little more than how to put one foot in front of the other. Fortunately, the highest mountain in Africa, also the tallest free-standing mountain in the world, can be conquered without ropes and belays, so I persuade some similarly non-proficient friends that we should tackle Mount Kilimanjaro. Although it’s not a technical climb – not by any stretch – Kili isn’t something you can knock off in an afternoon and get back in time for tea and cake. For one thing, it’s in Tanzania, which takes a bit of getting to. Secondly, the summit sits 5,895m above sea-level, where the air is thin and altitude sickness is a real risk. Preparations, although far from Olympian, are necessary.
We study pre-trip advice. We build up cardio-fitness by climbing every hill we find, wearing a rucksack and the boots we’ll be taking. We visit London’s Altitude Centre for tests and tips (see more on p85). The only suggestion we somehow overlook is the one about giving up beer. We gather our kit together – nothing too specialised, more a comprehensive range of regular walking gear, with plenty of warm layers. A down jacket and a second fleece will prove invaluable, as will a spare pair of gloves. Despite weeks of walking round the house pretending to be Ranulph Fiennes, it isn’t until the flight into Kilimanjaro airport that it suddenly feels very real. Up in the clouds, above our light aircraft, towers the snowcapped Kibo cone, the highest of Kilimanjaro’s three summits. The giggling and squabbling on the flight stop. We stare dumbstruck from the window. »