Country Walking magazine March 2015

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ROUTE CARDS THERE’S A GREAT SPRING WALK NEAR YOU!

THE BIGGEST VIEW IN THE MIDLANDS... AND WHY YOU NEED TO SEE IT NOW! WALK THROUGH 2,000 YEARS OF HISTORY ON YORK’S ANCIENT WALLS

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the 10 best day-walks Your complete guide to walking it all – plus

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SEA to SUMMIT

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MARCH 2015 £4.20

ISSUE 338 PENNINE WAY ◆ THE WREKIN ◆ CRIFFEL ◆ YORK ◆ AMALFI COAST ◆ WINTER FLEECES ◆ VOLUNTEERING ◆ #WALK1000MILES

B R I TA I N ’ S B E S T- S E L L I N G WA L K I N G M A G A Z I N E

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MARCH 2015

JULIA BRADBURY: “Where I’d love to go walking next”

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PLUS: EXPLORE ITALY’S AMALFI COAST ◆ RESCUE A FOOTPATH ◆ JOIN OUR 1,000-MILE CHALLENGE


D E S TI N ATI O N S York

u THE VIEW

FROM THE WALL

Looking across York to the great towers of its Minster, from up on the city walls near Lendal Bridge.


WALK T H E

WALLS

York’s city walls encompass beautiful parks, twinkling rivers and ancient buildings, and there’s no better time to walk the parapets than during the annual Jorvik Viking Festival. W O R D S : J E N N Y WA LT E R S

PHOTOS: TOM BAILEY

MARCH 2015 COUNTRY WALKING 21


D E S TI N ATI O N S Th e Pe n nin e Way

The Pennine Way turns 50 this spring and there’s never been a better time to walk all 268 miles from the Peak District to Scotland. Here’s the definitive guide to planning your big adventure, plus 10 top days out to sample the trail’s highlights. WORDS: DAMIAN HALL

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t BEST OF

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The Pennine Way treads past some of the nation's finest views including the glacial trench of High Cup (main pic), the limestone cliffs of Malham Cove (top), the tumbling waters of Low Force and the ancient stones of Hadrian's Wall (bottom). PHOTOS: TOM BAILEY; © IWEBBTRAVEL/ALAMY; © CLEARVIEW/ALAMY


Make a

DIFFERENCE Show your love for walking and the beautiful British countryside this spring by volunteering your energy and expertise. W O R D S : J E N N Y WA LT E R S

54 COUNTRY WALKING MARCH 2015


F R E S H I D E A S G iving back q WALKING FOR WILDLIFE

Take a hike in a nature reserve and help the Wildlife Trust conserve the nation's wild places. PHOTOS: MATTHEW ROBERTS / THE WILDLIFE TRUSTS

GET BACK TO NATURE Look after Britain's wildlife Picture a woodland in spring, the floor bright with bluebells and the branches full of birdsong. Imagine an upland heath in summer, with bees humming across the purple heather. These are the landscapes walkers treasure and you can help The Wildlife Trusts to protect them. The 47 trusts manage more than 2,000 sites across the UK and host regular work parties at nature reserves from the Isles of Scilly to Orkney. Tasks are varied and will teach you a host of new skills including hedge-laying, land management and how to create habitats for wildlife. And it’s not all hard work – there are regular breaks to chat and enjoy your bucolic surroundings. There are specific opportunities to tempt walkers too. You can volunteer as a walking warden in your local nature reserve, reporting sightings of wildlife or problems like overgrown vegetation or broken signs. Or you can join a new initiative called Wild Walks, run jointly by The Wildlife Trusts and the British Ornithological Society. Simply register on the website, go for a walk in a nature reserve, then record your route and all the birds, bugs, plants and animals you spotted. You can create your own walk or follow ones already mapped on the website. Anna Guthrie from The Wildlife Trusts explains: “By recording sightings of plants and animals along a Wild Walk people can help The Wildlife Trusts to build up a picture of how our work to restore nature is affecting local wildlife. If walks are repeated, records will help us track how wildlife changes and responds to conservation management over time.” There are no set times – just whenever you’re out walking in your local reserve or further afield. “It’s a way to enjoy the wonders of nature,” says Anna, “while helping it at the same time.” More info: www.wildlifetrusts.org; www.wild-walks.org MARCH 2015 COUNTRY WALKING 55


D E S TI N ATI O N S S olway C oast

FROM SEA TO SUMMIT

Coast and mountain are two of our favourite landscapes. And in a few magical places they combine magnificently. We’ve tracked down Britain’s six finest seaside peaks, starting with one that likes to play hide and seek… WORDS: NICK HALLISSEY

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p HERO HILL

Rising high above the Solway Firth on the Galloway Coast, Criffel is the perfect example of a seaside mountain. PHOTO: © NOBLEIMAGES / ALAMY

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D E S TI N ATI O N S Shropshire


WORDS: NICK HALLISSEY

PHOTO: DAVE PORTER/ALAMY

There’s a hill in the middle of England which offers views of the Cotswolds, Snowdonia, the Pennines and the Peak District in the same panorama. And right now that view is at its best. Welcome to the mountain at the heart of the nation…

MARCH 2015 COUNTRY WALKING 71


Siren

call

Ulysses knew to steer clear of the temptations of Amalfi’s coastline – and 2,500 years later, the danger is still there... WORDS: MARK SUTCLIFFE

LAND OF THE SIRENSu Looking west along the rugged Amalfi coastline towards the Li Galli isles. PHOTO: THINKSTOCK


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GEAR

OUR TESTERS

Country Walking always tests products for both men and women. Our reviewers Nick Hallissey and Sarah Ryan have notched up thousands of miles on foot, so they know the value of good kit at the right price. This test took them to the Lake District, the South Downs and a very blowy, breezy Snowdon.

No-nonsense reviews for real walkers

YOUR COMPLETE BUYING GUIDE TO

FLEECES A

GOOD FLEECE ISN’T JUST something you appreciate, it’s something you love. What else in your gear cupboard is as cosy and warm as a fleece; or as adaptable? Soft shell may be more robust, but for simple comfort, there’s no comparison.

Here we are looking at half-zip and full-zip options that you can wear as a mid-layer in winter and an outer in spring and summer. Our reviews aren’t comparative tests; instead we offer a buyer’s guide to a wide range of products found on the high street and

online. We explain what you can expect for your money at each price-point. We don’t pick an overall winner, as it can be like comparing apples and oranges and no single option will suit every walker. Instead we focus on the kind of walking that each product suits best.

FEATURES TO LOOK FOR FABRIC The basic fabric of fleece is polyester but the warmth of the top will depend on the density of the knit. Many brands bring in proprietorial fabrics like Polartec or Gore to provide warmth, breathability and stretch. Weight isn’t always a bad thing: a heavier fleece can provide better insulation against the wind.

ZIP A half-zip pullover is more compact in your rucksack and works well as a throw-on layer. The sleeves on half-zips are also easier to roll up if you want to cool down. A full-zip is a more adaptable outer layer – just be sure the zip is windproof: an internal stormflap underneath the zip will to keep out draughts.

CUFFS Some have just a simple cuff which can be rolled up easily on warmer days. Others use elastic or an internal barrier to focus on keeping the cold out. And some feature thumb loops which help secure the sleeves to your arms.

NB: In all reviews we specify the Recommended Retail Price (RRP) for consistency. Discounts may be available online and in stores.

POCKETS Pullovers tend to have just a slim chest pocket. Full-zip jackets usually have more pockets as they more often function as your outer layer. The main torso pockets will often have a ‘handwarmer’ lining. Just be sure you can access the zips when wearing your rucksack harness.

FIT Your fleece needs to be snug. Too tight and it will trap unwanted heat and possibly restrict your arm movements; too baggy and it won’t lock out icy winds. Look for points of adjustment, such as drawcords, that will help you fit it perfectly.

HEM Pullover tops tend to have simple hems, while full-zip jackets will generally use a wire or a drawcord to help you lock out draughts. Always check that the hem covers the whole of your lower back, and preferably a good portion of your posterior too.

TURN OVER TO READ THE TESTS...


27 ROUTES WITH ORDNANCE SURVEY MAPS

Britain’s best

ON

E TH NE ER AR E ’ S YO U

WALKS

SOUTH WEST

SOUTH EAST

MIDLANDS

EAST

NORTH WEST NORTH EAST

Spring surprises

MARCH 2015

WALES

SCOTLAND

IRELAND

I N SI DE TH I S MONTH . . . u Peace and quiet in the Howgills u Walk Speyside’s ‘Whisky Way’ u A literary stroll on the south coast

and more of Britain’s best walks...

The sun sets on rocks at Curbar Edge, Derbyshire (Walk 12). PHOTO: © ED RHODES / ALAMY

WE PROMISE MORE WALKS IN MORE PLACES THAN ANY OTHER MAGAZINE

READY TO USE!

POCKETSIZED A5 CARDS

!


Britain’s Best Walks FIND A GREAT WALK NEAR YOU...

SOUTH WEST SOUTH EAST MIDLANDS

01 Cornwall Boscastle

EAST

02 Somerset Wimbleball Lake

NORTH WEST

03 Wiltshire Fovant Badges

NORTH EAST

04 Isle of Wight Ventnor

WALES

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05 Isle of Wight Ventnor 06 East Sussex Isfield & Barcombe

SCOTLAND

07 Oxfordshire Cornwell & Chastleton

IRELAND

08 Hertfordshire Odsey to Royston 09 Shropshire The Wrekin 10 Warwickshire Henley-In-Arden

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11 Northamptonshire Abthorpe 24

12 Derbyshire/S Yorkshire Froggatt Edge 13 Cambridgeshire Cambourne

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14 Norfolk Brampton to Wroxham 15 Lancashire Glasson 16 Cumbria The Howgill Fells

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FAMILY WALK CHALLENGE WALK

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17 Cumbria Beda Fell 18 South Yorkshire Castle Hill 19 North Yorkshire Pen-y-ghent

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CHALLENGE WALK

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20 East Yorkshire Rudston

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21 Pembrokeshire Stackpole

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22 Powys Penegoes

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23 Conwy Little Orme 24 Dumfries & Galloway Criffel

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25 Isle of Arran Goatfell

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26 Moray Craigellachie

WALK INFORMATION An estimate of how long the route will take, based on a pace of about two miles per hour, with allowances made for slower, hilly routes.

A B

NAVIGATION: Good map-reading and compass skills required in places. DISTANCE: Route is between 8-12 miles from start to finish. TERRAIN: 3,000ft+ with sustained steep ascent/descent; possible scrambling.

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TRAILZILLA ID (on reverse of card) We upload all our walks to Trailzilla.com so subscribers can use the unique code displayed on the back of each route card to download and print the route.

S

GRADIENT PROFILE Check the ascent and descent (hilliness) of the route with a quick glance at this profile.

TERRAIN: Min 2,000ft ascent, sustained steepness and rocky or boggy ground. W

ABBREVIATIONS We have abbreviated left to L and right to R.

GRADE Our routes are graded easy, moderate, challenging or occasionally extreme, depending on distance, terrain, elevation and ease of navigation. Easy and moderate walks are usually less than 8 miles with relatively gentle gradients. The table below shows how we grade our more challenging walks:

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OUR EXPERTS All our routes are written by experienced and knowledgeable walkers who are experts at finding the best walks in their area and describing them clearly.

If you spot a route which needs updating, email us with the details at cwroutes@bauermedia.co.uk

CHALLENGING

How to use your routes

CLASSIC ROUTE

EXTREME

27 Devon/Dorset Lyme Regis

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NAVIGATION: Sound navigation skills required; route may be trackless. DISTANCE: Route is more than 12 miles from start to finish.

MAPS (on reverse of route card) Follow the red route marked clearly on the map. It’s essential to take the relevant Ordnance Survey map with you in case you get lost and inadvertently leave the area covered by our map.


CORNWALL 01 BOSCASTLE

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The beautiful coastal views from Beeny Cliff.

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Start Following the devastating 2004 flood, the subsequent clean up, regeneration project and flood defence scheme took four years to complete. Widening the river bank to increase capacity and providing a permeable surface for the car park were just two of the many works undertaken. Go through the gate at the far end of the car park and continue along the path signed for Newmills and St Juliots. At the NT Newmills sign go up the steps and along the path to pass a white cottage and continue along the drive to a lane. (If you have time, continue up the valley another 1km to visit St Juliot Church, to where Hardy came as a young architect to

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GRADIENT PROFILE

8

Bude

Liskear

Tavi

Launceston

Wadebridge

Boscastle Tintagel

PLAN YOUR WALK

Padstow Bodmin

ROUTE

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Start/parking Boscastle car park, grid ref SX101913 Is it for me? There are a few steep ascents and descents. Easy wooded valley path to start; country lanes; and coastal paths Stiles 3

PLANNING Nearest town Camelford Refreshments The National Trust café adjoining the Boscastle Visitor Centre and Boscastle Farm Shop & Café, off the Coast Path near Pentargon Public toilets Boscastle – at car park Public transport Bus service 584/595 from Wadebridge to Bude via Camelford and Boscastle. Maps OS Explorer 111; Landranger 190

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assess its restoration. It was here he met Emma Gifford, whom he later married.)

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SOMERSET LAKE 02 WIMBLEBALL

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Wimbleball from Hadborough Hill.

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GRADIENT PROFILE

8

12

4.9km/3 miles Turn L over the bridge and follow the lane uphill for 150m.

3

1.7km/1 mile Turn L and follow track with river on your L. Keep R ‘Public Bridleway Bury’ at next two path junctions. Reaching Bury, follow tarred lane to Old School House.

2

Start Walk back towards the road (B3190) from Haddon Hill car park. Turn L through gate Follow the tarred track downhill towards Wimbleball. Continue past dam to path junction. Follow ‘bridleway’ ahead with river on your R. Cross two bridges to path junction.

1

on

Lynmouth

Tiverton

South Molton

aple

ngton

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16

Axm

Cha

Ilmins

Taunton Wellington

Honit

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Turn L ‘Bridleway Haddon Hill’. Reaching Haddon Farm, continue ahead ‘Bridleway Haddon Hill’ for 500m.

Nearest town Dulverton Refreshments Pubs and tearooms nearby at Dulverton Public Toilets At start. Public Transport None to start Maps Ordnance Survey Explorer OL9 or 114; Landranger 181

PLANNING

Start/parking Haddon Hill car park on the B3190, grid ref SS969285. Is it for me? Bridlepaths, footpaths and tracks, well signed. There is one long steady descent and ascent. Stiles 1

ROUTE

C dit

Burnham-on-Se Minehead Watchet Bridgwate

PLAN YOUR WALK

uDistance: 8.2km/5¼ miles uTime: 2¾ hours uGrade: Easy

2

CHOSEN BYÉ ROBERT HESKETH Haddon (Hadborough) BeaconÕs trig pillar is the high point of this walk at 355m (1,172ft), offering views of Brendon and Exmoor. Southwards, over an ocean of rolling green hills, is the dramatic profile of Dartmoor. Wimbleball reservoir lies to the north. At 151 hectares, it is one of the largest man-made lakes in the West Country. It melds attractively into the landscape and is popular with anglers and birdwatchers as well as walkers. In contrast to the breezy open-ness of Haddon Hill, the lower half of this walk follows the deep and wooded Haddeo valley to BuryÕs arched bridge.

600 400 200 0 km 0

SOUTH WEST

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uDistance: 8.75km/5½ miles uTime: 3 hours uGrade: Moderate

4

metres

SOUTH WEST

600 400 200 0 km 0

2

CHOSEN BYÉ FIONA BARLTROP North CornwallÕs magnificent coastal scenery is hard to beat. For those whoÕve never experienced it, you have a treat in store, while those who have will need no excuse to return. If forced to pick just one place to sample it would have to be Boscastle. This circuit combines a stretch along the coast with an outward leg along the lovely, wooded Valency valley, providing a walk of great contrasts. There are literary associations, too, since it was these paths that Thomas Hardy and his wife-to-be Emma walked when they met and fell in love in the 1870s.

metres

PHOTO: FIONA BARLTROP

PHOTO: ROBERT HESKETH


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