NOVEMBER 2015
The perfect weekend in the Lake District READY-MADE PLANS: TWO BLISSFUL AUTUMN DAYS ON BLENCATHRA
November 2015 £4.20
KIN VALE ◆ CEREDIGION ◆ TIBET, SCOTLAND ISSUE 347 NEW OS BOSS ◆ INSIDE AUTUMN ◆ THRELKELD WEEKEND ◆ CIDER COUNTRY ◆ YEWS OF KINGLEY
Britain’s best-selling walking magazine
WHERE TO WALK, WHAT TO SEE The inside story of Britain’s most beautiful season
27 ROUTE CARDS
STUART MACONIE
Brilliant autumn walks near you
‘I’ve realised I like striding out more than Striding Edge’
30-40L RUCKSACKS REVIEWED
• GREEN CHILDREN • GREY MEN • MISSING
Big enough for warm winter layers (and the lunch you deserve)
PLANES AND MORE...
Amazing walks in
ancient woodlands ‘PAPER MAPS TREASURES OF WILL NEVER DIE’ MID-WALES Why you’ll love Ordnance Survey’s new boss!
Beautiful trails in hills once mined for precious metals
PERFECT PEACE IN SCOTLAND
www.livefortheoutdoors.com
Cider country
walks of ultimate refreshment Walk in hills so peaceful th they
built a Tibetan monastery tthere
THE INSIDE STORY The countrywide carnival of autumn reserves its most thrilling sights for those on foot. Here’s where to walk and what to see, in the season of flaming leaves, roaring deer, flying fish and sleeping butterflies... 28 COUNTRY WALKING NOVEMBER 2015
DISCOVER Autumn
WORDS: JENNY WALTERS PHOTO: © AGE FOTOSTOCK/SUPERSTOCK
INTO THE WOODS Step into the fairytale world of an autumn wood now before the winter cold snuffs out the the e brilliant b a t colours. co ou s
Bittersweet
ymphony
FORESTS PAVED WITH GOLD Ancient beech, yew, lime, ash and hazel trees crowd Lower Wyndcliff Wood, spilling their golden hues into to the t e Wye Valley Va ey below. be ow
DISCOVER The Welsh Marches
Relish the best of autumn on a walking weekend through cider orchards and crisp woodlands in the Welsh borders W O R D S : J E N N Y WA LT E R S PHOTOS: TOM BAILEY
Saturday cider walk: Much Marcle
Forest of Dean
Sunday woodland walk: Tintern
INSET PHOTO: ALAN LAGADU/THINKSTOCK
NOVEMBER 2015 COUNTRY WALKING 39
SHADES OF RED Low autumn sun brings out the deep hues in the wet bark of the of t e gnarled g a ed yews. yews
HILLS OF GREEN The dark, evergreen yews stand out among the broadleaf branches branches a c es of o Bow ow Hill.
DISCOVER Ancient woods
Blood
& CHALK
Kingley Vale is one of the oldest yew forests in Europe, a mysterious grove in the chalk hills of Sussex where myth entwines with evergreen needles, blood-red berries and copper broadleaf woodlands.
B
WORDS: KEITH FOSKETT
RITAIN’S NATIVE TREES each have their own, individual characters. The oak imparts strength and invincibility. The silver birch is pale and graceful, yielding gently to the breeze. The yew, Taxus baccata, is a different beast entirely. Gnarled, twisted trunks grow like art installations and branches contort and claw like giant hands. Dense, toxin-packed foliage darkens the ground at its roots, while the tempting red of its berries – or more properly arils – disguises deadly poisonous seeds. Yew woods are hauntingly beautiful, but devilish too. Nestling in the ripples and undulations of the South Downs National Park, is one such ancient wood. Kingley Vale, just north of Chichester, has 30,000 yews and is the largest and oldest forest in Britain, one of the finest examples in the whole of Europe in fact. It mesmerises walkers with tales of bygone battles, majestic views across southern England to the Isle of Wight, and the yew tree’s unique, spellbinding presence. The vale is memorable at any time, but it saves its best for autumn. Whilst the yews grow evergreen all year, Kingley is also home to deciduous trees and come October, the slopes flare with fall colour. From the charming village of West Stoke, a wide, stony path eases you north. Kingley is visible
PHOTOS: TOM BAILEY
directly ahead, perched impressively across the hilltop. Once at its southern tip, two main paths climb more steeply, offering glimpses into the dark recesses of the wood where the sunlight struggles to reach and little can grow in the deep shadow of the yews. Nobody knows how many centuries have passed since these immense trees, some now five metres round, were seedlings. The yew grows in layers and its inside is gradually hollowed out by rot, making it impossible to count the rings to age the tree. Some think these have lived here for two millennia; some argue that they were planted to honour Viking warriors in 849AD; some suggest they spread during the 14th century, when the plague wiped out the local farmworkers and the yews were no longer held in check by agriculture. What is certain is that the trees you’re looking at now have twined their roots into the chalk for at least 500 years, and that the dynasty of Kingley yews stretches back even further into the mists of the past. It is a miracle that this forest has survived at all. The iron-hard wood of the yew was a favourite material for Medieval longbows and trees were felled across Britain to provide weapons for battle. World War II saw the trees bombed and shot at by army units in training – you can still see bullet holes in some of the trunks. And in between those times, this grove of yews had its fringes grubbed up u
“Kingley Vale has 30,000 yews and is the largest and oldest forest in Britain.”
NOVEMBER 2015 COUNTRY WALKING 49
FADE TO GREY Former silver and lead mines dot the hills of Ceredigion, giving walkers a riveting insight into the county’s industrial dust a past. past
DISCOVER Ceredigion
e Spirit of e
For hundreds of years the lure of copper, silver, zinc and lead drew miners to the remote hills of Ceredigion. Now the remains they left behind make a fascinating focus for a wild autumn walk WORDS: JULIE BROMINICKS
NOVEMBER 2015 COUNTRY WALKING 57
PHOTO: Š CHRIS HOWES: WILD PLACES PHOTOGRAPHY/ALAMY STOCK PHOTO
MINERS
Finding Tibet* in a Scottish valley Untrodden hills, calm rivers and a night in a Tibetan monastery: could this be the ultimate walking escape? WORDS: NICK HALLISSEY
PHOTOS: TOM BAILEY
*Europe’s largest Tibetan monastery is tucked away in this quiet Scottish valley. Don’t believe us? Turn the page…
CLOSER TO HEAVEN The hills of Eskdale, a place where big skies and Tibetan philosophy philosophy osop y meet. eet
DISCOVER Tibet in Scotland
NOVEMBER 2015 COUNTRY WALKING 65
Expert advice on the kit that makes a difference YOUR COMPLETE BUYING GUIDE TO
OUR TESTERS
for big days out
T
HE rucksack world divides pretty neatly into two categories as far as country walking is concerned. The 15-25 litre packs are perfect for day-walks, especially in summer; they’re light, compact and can carry all the basics. Then we have 30-40 litre packs for the days when you want to carry a lot more. This includes autumn and winter walks, when you want a waterproof, hat, gloves and perhaps a chunky padded jacket, as well as heartier food and hot drinks; and multiday walks at any time of year, when you need to carry everything, including a wash bag and change of clothes. These larger packs are also great for family walks, when you may be stuffing in a picnic, kids’ stuff, including raincoats, Hello Kitty/Lego hats and invariably the ‘Toy That Must Be Taken Everywhere’. And it’s this larger category that we’re looking at this month: big, sturdy, robust but surprisingly lightweight, and adaptable from day-walk to trail-hike. Rucksacks don’t stop at 40 litres, of course, but generally rucksacks of 40-70 litres are more aimed at habitual longdistance travel-trekkers, wild campers and DofE adventurers. So for this test we packed 14 30-40 litre rucksacks from across the market with all the kit we could, then took them out in all winds and weathers to see how they’d cope.
76 COUNTRY WALKING NOVEMBER 2015
About our reviews Our two testers have tried out seven rucksacks each, across a price range from £30 to £130. Both Nick and Sarah tried some unisex packs as well as those designed for men or women specifically. It’s not a comparative test; instead our aim is to explain what you should expect for your money at each price-point. We don’t pick a winner as no single option will suit every walker; instead we try to match each pack with the kind of walking it suits best.
qTAKING THE STR AIN A good larger rucksack should give you plenty of support. The huge hip-fins on this one take the weight and keep you comfy. NB: WE ALWAY SPECIFY THE RECOMMENDED RETAIL PRICE (RRP) FOR CONSISTENCY. YOU MAY SEE THESE ITEMS SOLD FOR CONSIDERABLY LESS IN STORES AND ONLINE.
Country Walking always tests products for both men and women. Our reviewers Nick Hallissey and Sarah Ryan have notched up thousands of miles on foot, so they know the value of good kit at the right price. This test took them to the North York Moors, the Peak District, the Highlands and the Norfolk Broads.
RUCKSACKS
Buying Guide Large rucksacks CAPACITY
HYDRATION STORAGE
How much can it carry, and where do you put it all? Some packs have one vast compartment, others as many as eight. Having more compartments spreads the weight and makes it easier to find things in a hurry. Where you see figures like 26+4, it means the pack has expandable pockets for when you’re taking a lot of stuff.
Almost all packs have space for a bladder-and-hose hydration system. When trying them on, ask if the store can provide you with a full system so you can see how it affects weight and storage. Also ensure the hole for the hose is wide enough (oddly a more frequent issue than it should be).
OPENING Most larger packs use a buckle-closing lid and a drawcord to close the main compartment, rather than zips, as used on smaller packs. These make it easier to open the pack wide and stuff in bulky items. Some packs allow extra zipped access into the bottom of the pack for storing footwear or wet gear.
COMPRESSION STRAPS These make the pack secure and stable when it’s full. They can also shrink the pack right down to a much smaller size if it’s nearly empty because you’re wearing everything. A common problem is an excess of strapping – try trimming the excess when you’ve set the pack to its fullest load.
POCKETS There should be pockets for a flask or bottle, and there are usually pockets in the lid – often one internal and one external. Hip-belt pockets help you access a phone or GPS easily without taking the pack off, and you may find a mesh flap like this one. Usually there’s a pocket for a rain cover, too.
HARNESS Shoulder straps should be well-padded to prevent rubbing, but also have a degree of breathability. Most packs have a fixed harness with straps for adjustability, but some offer a sliding harness, which can move up and down the pack to give you a perfect fit for your height. The crucial point is that the waist-belt should take most of the weight, not the shoulder straps.
BACK SYSTEM
GENDER The majority of rucksacks on the market are still unisex, but we’–re seeing a broader variation into dedicated men’s and women’s rucksacks. Men’s packs have broader, straighter shoulder straps and a wider body; women’s packs are generally narrower, with S-shaped shoulder straps to fit around the bust and more feminine styling. Take note, Deuter usually give you a flower, ladies…!
Suspended systems push the load away from your back to allow air to circulate freely and prevent your back overheating – but they can affect the weight distribution and your balance. A ribbed channel system keeps the load close and lets air escape down the sides. Padded panels are the simplest idea, but they can run hot.
Turn over to read the tests… NOVEMBER 2015 COUNTRY WALKING 77
27 ROUTES with Ordnance Survey Maps
Britain’s best
NOVEMBER 2015
WALKS s Theree’ar one nu! yo
SOUTH WEST
SOUTH EAST
PHOTO: © TONY BOYDON / ALAMY STOCK PHOTO
MIDLANDS
EAST
NORTH WEST
TIDES OF CHANGE Autumn transforms the hills around the Mawddach Estuary. Turn to Walk 22 to discover d scove this t s view. v ew
Golden season Haunted hills above Loch Lomond l A waterside Gormley in Warwickshire l A cracking day out in Somerset’s Quantocks... and more great walks!
NORTH EAST
WALES
SCOTLAND
IRELAND
Britain’s est
WALKS
SOUTH WEST SOUTH EAST
Find a great walk near you...
MIDLANDS EAST
01 Somerset Crowcombe Circular
NORTH WEST
02 Dorset Melbury Abbas
26
03 West Sussex Kingley Vale & Bow Hill
NORTH EAST
04 Kent Golden Green
WALES
05 Oxfordshire Chipping Norton 06 Hertfordshire Thundridge
SCOTLAND
25
FAMILY WALK
IRELAND
07 Herefordshire Much Marcle 08 Warwickshire Henley-in-Arden 09 Derbyshire Padley Gorge
24
10 Leicestershire Burton Lazars
20
16 17
11 Cambridgeshire Hardwick
19
15
12 Suffolk Santon Downham 13 Cheshire Lion Salt Works 14 Greater Manchester Stalybridge 15 Cumbria Firbank Fells 16 Cumbria Blencathra
23 CHALLENGE WALK
13
14
18 09 10
22
17 Cumbria Low Rigg & High Rigg
12
08
18 West Yorkshire Wessenden Moors
11
07
19 North Yorkshire Carlton Bank & Moors
05
21
06
20 Northumberland Allenheads Moor 01
21 Gwent Caerphilly Mountain
25 Stirling Beinn Chabhair 26 Moray Randolph’s Leap
WALK INFORMATION An estimate of how long the route will take, based on a pace of about two miles per hour, with allowances made for slower, hilly routes.
A B
NAVIGATION: Good map-reading and compass skills required in places. DISTANCE: Route is between 8-12 miles from start to finish. TERRAIN: 3,000ft+ with sustained steep ascent/descent; possible scrambling.
W
N
S
E
92 COUNTRY WALKING NOVEMBER 2015
E
TRAILZILLA ID (on reverse of card) We upload all our walks to Trailzilla.com so subscribers can use the unique code displayed on the back of each route card to download and print the route.
TERRAIN: Min 2,000ft ascent, sustained steepness and rocky or boggy ground. S
GRADIENT PROFILE Check the ascent and descent (hilliness) of the route with a quick glance at this profile.
GRADE Our routes are graded easy, moderate, challenging or occasionally extreme, depending on distance, terrain, elevation and ease of navigation. Easy and moderate walks are usually less than 8 miles with relatively gentle gradients. The table below shows how we grade our more challenging walks:
W
ABBREVIATIONS We have abbreviated left to L and right to R.
If you spot a route which needs updating, email cwroutes@bauermedia.co.uk
N
OUR EXPERTS All our routes are written by experienced and knowledgeable walkers who are experts at finding the best walks in their area and describing them clearly.
CLASSIC ROUTE
u Fridaythorpe, October 2015, Walk 18 – The correct Trailzilla ID is TZID27864. u Old Durham, October 2015, Walk 21 – The direction arrows on the bottom part of the route should point clockwise.
challenging
24 Dumfries & Galloway Wisp Hill & Grey Hill
Route updates
extreme
23 Denbighshire Ruthin
How to use your routes
04 03
27
22 Gwynedd Barmouth
27 Cornwall Tintagel
02
A B
NAVIGATION: Sound navigation skills required; route may be trackless. DISTANCE: Route is more than 12 miles from start to finish.
MAPS (on reverse of route card) Follow the red route marked clearly on the map. It’s essential to take the relevant Ordnance Survey map with you in case you get lost and inadvertently leave the area covered by our map.