october 2013
must-do walks! 25 with easy-to-follow maps PLUS where to eat & stay
issue 320 lake district in autumn | plynlimon | surrey hills | west highland way | jurassic coast | waterproof jackets | settlE weekend
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r ecl a i m
autumn special
the hills
Lake District • Scottish Highlands • Yorkshire Dales
gorgeous glens
Plus
Walk the West Highland Way and see Scotland at its wildest
uSuperb Yorkshire Dales weekender uDiscover Britain’s newest footpath!
Golden peaks
Six Lake District walks that make the most of the season
THE jurassic coasT PATH
Walk the stunning Devon shores where dinosaurs roamed
october 2013 £3.99
in search of the source
Climb the hill where the nation’s greatest rivers are born
waterproof jacket TEST We put 14 of the best through their paces
Autumn alchemy in the
Lake District Lakeland looks fantastic at any time of year, but walk here in autumn and you'll discover an enchanting palette of bronze, copper and gold. Editor Mark Sutcliffe asked six local experts to reveal the best walks of the season – and starts with his own personal favourite‌
22 Country Walking october 2013
The colour of the bracken signifies the passing of the seasons in the Lake District. The glorious auburn hues of autumn stand in stark corntrast to the bright greens of the pasture on the lower slopes of the fells.
october 2013 Country Walking 23
Photo: Š Ian Badley/Alamy
pbracken above buttermere
pictorial guide
The Jurassic
coast
The south Devon coastline is both outstandingly beautiful and a world-class geological wonderland. Discover its magic on a walk from the picturesque village of Branscombe. Words: Jenny Walters
34 Country Walking october 2013
This spectacular view along the Hooken Undercliff from Beer Head is just one of this walk’s highlights...
Photo: Š Sebastian Wasek/Alamy
uhooken undercliff
destinations cambrian mountains
40 Country Walking october 2013
The hill where
are born Plynlimon is the highest peak in the Cambrian Mountains, a remote, empty massif where three of Britain’s great rivers – the Severn, the Wye and the Rheidol – rise to begin their journey to the sea. Words: Jenny Walters Photos: Tom Bailey
october 2013 Country Walking 41
48 H
URS IN‌
settle
This pretty market town is a brilliant base for car-free walking in the Yorkshire Dales – especially if you hitch a ride on the spectacular Settle to Carlisle railway. Words and photos: Andy Latham
national trails west highland way
SCOTLAND's
WILD frontier
The West Highland Way is the perfect route for exploring wildest Scotland without serious mountaineering. And with the crowds gone, the rivers in spate and the forests turning gold, autumn is the perfect time to do it. Words: Hanna Lindon
qdevil's staircase
Photo: © Stewart Smith/Alamy
The pass at the top of the Devil’s Staircase is the highest point on the West Highland Way at 548m/1,797ft. The climb is less fiendish than the name would suggest and the views – here looking across Glen Coe to Buachaille Etive Mor – are heavenly.
pwaymarker A white thistle inside a hexagon is the symbol of the West Highland Way and regular waymarks guide your steps along the entire route.
W
Photo: © David Lichtneker/Alamy
estern Scotland is one of the UK’s wildest wild places; a landscape of vertiginous topography and harsh extremes, where nature is at its most hostile and even the weather seems designed to beat back interlopers. The razorback ridges of the West Highlands blur the line between walker and mountaineer; exploring these high places takes high levels of physical endurance, as well as a Bear Grylls-style grasp of navigation and some serious mountain mettle. But before you decide that this wild place might not be for you, we’d best add a proviso. There is a way for walkers to stroll right into the heart of this Highland stronghold and admire the spikiest scenery in Scotland without scaring themselves silly by scaling it. It’s the West Highland Way; a 96-mile long-distance route that links the town of Milngavie north of Glasgow with adrenaline capital Fort William. Scotland’s most popular long-distance trail attracts more than 80,000 walkers every year. From a pedestrian start in the main precinct of Milngavie (that’s ‘mull-guy’, for anyone struggling with the pronunciation), it strikes out towards the Campsie Fells and soon loses itself in the forests and moors that encircle Loch Lomond. By the time the Way reaches Glen Coe, it has become a triumphal march through the very best of western Scotland, complete with connoisseur views of the country’s most rugged mountains. And there’s a sting in the tail of this snaky route, as tradition dictates that you end with an ascent of 1,344m-high Ben Nevis. It takes between five and ten days to walk the full 96 miles, and 40 per cent of Way walkers choose to tackle the whole thing. If you’re restricted to a shorter itinerary, however, then we’ve picked out a day-walk and an epic weekender based around the route’s scenic highlights. u october 2013 Country Walking 55
destinations surrey hills
THE ROAD THAT It’s England’s newest footpath, and it has restored the stunning Surrey Hills to their
Words: Nick Hallissey Photos: Tom Bailey
Photo: © Peter S Noyce/Alamy
DISAPPEARED fullest glory. After more than a century, Mother Nature has finally reclaimed the A3…
october 2013 Country Walking 65
GEAR Men’s jackets CRAGHOPPERS
LOWE ALPINE
Sizes: S-XXL Fabric: Aquadry Weight: 975g Women’s version: Madigan II Contact: 0161 749 1300; craghoppers.com
Sizes: S-XXL Fabric: Triplepoint Eco 3-layer Weight: 550g Women’s version: Yes Contact: 01539 740840; lowealpine.com
The Kiwi sets its stall out quite clearly as a winter waterproof – perfect for those who like to step out of the door already wearing solid protection from the elements. But it’s far from ideal if you want to carry it in a pack, weighing in at close to 1kg and taking up most of the space in a 25L pack. The traditional styling will suit some, with a high collar, low gusseted pockets and a very long hem. It certainly keeps rain out, and it’s also quite warm – perfect for less strenuous outings.
A great winter waterproof that looks good and offers plenty of protection from the elements. It’s a good length and boasts an excellent hood, with three-way adjustment and good wired peak. The pockets don’t vent and they aren’t huge either, but they do the job. The sleeves are a good length and adjust with Velcro tabs, and the main zip has a good external stormflap. The Triplepoint fabric stayed waterproof throughout the test.
Kiwi Jacket £90
Teton Jacket£200
VERDICT
VERDICT
A classically styled jacket that’s best worn rather than carried.
Excellent hillwalking waterproof with a great hood.
6/10
7/10
SPRAYWAY Phantom II £180
best for value
MONTANE
Direct Ascent £240
best
LIGHTWEIGHT
option
Sizes: S-XXL Fabric: Gore-Tex Weight: 670g Women’s version: Yes Contact: 0161 366 5020; sprayway.com
Sizes: S -XXL Fabric: eVENT Hurricane 3-layer Weight: 465g Women’s version: Yes Contact: 01670 522300; montane.co.uk
A great compromise between full winter protection and reasonable weight/ packability. It boasts deep handwarmer pockets that are big enough to swallow a map and also double as vents, a zip-access internal chest pocket, and a highly adjustable rollaway hood with a wired peak. The cuffs fasten with Velcro and the hem, which is longer than most, adjusts with a drawcord. The two-layer Gore-Tex fabric is soft and easy to move around in and the mesh lining feels good even against skin. It kept rain out throughout the test.
The lightest of the men’s selection but still a pretty resilient waterproof. The eVENT fabric is lovely and soft which makes it easy to move in and a fleece protector over the main zip at the top means no chafing. The pockets are innovative: big enough for a map, with little mesh panels high up above the openings, which means that they vent and are waterproof at the same time. The hood is excellent: threeway adjustment and a stiffened and wired peak. The hem is quite short and adjusts with a drawcord, as does the waist.
VERDICT
VERDICT
Superb value waterproof.
A lightweight take on a full-on winter waterproof.
9/10
9/10
82 Country Walking OCTOBER 2013
KARRIMOR
BERGHAUS
Sizes: S-XXL Fabric: eVENT® 3-layer Weight: 575g Women’s version: No Contact: karrimor.co.uk
Sizes: S-XXL Fabric: 2-layer Gore-Tex Weight: 735g Women’s version: No Contact: 0845 607 2477; berghaus.com
A good technical waterproof, the Alpiniste is very much in the style of modern mountaineering jackets with high pockets that are easily accessed when wearing a pack, and a tough, permanently attached hood with plenty of adjustment. The pockets are huge and double as vents – perfect for strenuous going – and the cuffs are a good length and adjust with Velcro tabs. The eVENT fabric is softish and easy to move in, and proved waterproof and breathable. It’s a good weight and packs down well.
The Mera Peak is almost the definitive winter waterproof and the latest version has raised the game again. It’s no lightweight, but it is absolutely watertight. The 2-layer fabric is breathable and the mesh lining is comfortable, even over a shortsleeved base. The hood, which pops away, is cavernous and easy to bury yourself in. The peak is a little floppy, though. It has a good selection of pockets including two large handwarmers which vent and will take a map with no trouble.
Elite Alpiniste II £200
Mera Peak £250
VERDICT
VERDICT
Great value waterproof ideal for strenuous going.
The latest version of a superb winter classic.
8/10
8/10
MARMOT Nabu £260
Sizes: S-XL Fabric: Polartec Neoshell Weight: 650g Women’s version: Yes Contact: 015395 63616; marmot.eu
Polartec’s Neoshell fabric feels a lot like soft shell but offers superb waterproofness and breathability. It’s supertough yet stretchy and comfortable to wear too. The Nabu is a little heavier than some tested, but that can be reassuring in foul weather, and it packs down small due to the soft nature of the fabric. The hood is excellent, with three-way adjustment, but the peak could be stiffer – perhaps the jacket’s only real weakness. It has two well-placed handwarmer pockets that will take a map and double as vents; and smaller pockets on the chest (one inside and one out) for other items. The sleeves fasten with Velcro tabs and the hem cinches with a single-handed drawcord. Expensive but excellent.
Best in test
The hood adjusts three ways.
VERDICT A superb winter jacket made from a top-notch fabric.
9/10
Pockets have waterproof zips.
october 2013 Country Walking 83
south west
01
cornwall botallack & cape Cornwall
Bude
Boscastle Tintagel
uDistance: 8.5km/5¼ miles uTime: 2½ hours uGrade: Moderate Padstow
plan your walk
Botallack mine Crowns engine houses on their precarious perches.
Wadebridge Bodmin
Newquay
CORNWALL St Austell
St Agnes Truro Redruth Camborne St Mawes Falmouth Penzance Helston St Ives
St Just
Sennen Land's End
Lizard
Scilly Isles
Route
1
Start Turn R out of car park. Walk past headgear. Turn L onto Coast Path. Look down to Crowns engine houses. Continue south on Coast Path.
2
1.8km/1 mile Kendijack Castle is an Iron Age promontory fort. Parts of the defensive banks built to protect it from landward attack remain. Coast Path continues over stile and down to track. Turn L and, after 150m, R down path. Follow uRoute available to download and print at: lfto.com/routes
3
3.9km/2½ miles Enjoy views. Retrace your steps for 250m, keeping to track. Rejoin Coast Path opposite white cottage. Follow it down steps and uphill as signed to tarred lane. Leave Coast Path and follow lane for 100m to Ballowall Barrow.
Don’t miss... The lower pump house on Crowns Cliff. Built in 1835, it weighs 1,200 tons and has no foundations – the rocks are bolted and mortared into place.
Planning Nearest town St Just Refreshments Queens Arms, Botallack; refreshment van, Cape Cornwall (seasonal) Public toilets Cape Cornwall Public transport Bus 10a runs regularly between Penzance and Botallack Maps Ordnance Survey Explorer 102; Landranger 203 uBuy maps at: ordnance survey.co.uk/mapshop
1
4
4.9km/3 miles Continue along lane past mine workings and chimney for 600m. Turn L over stile. Follow waymarks to Ballowall Farm. Follow path through hamlet as signed. Continue along track to lane. Cross lane and stile. Follow footpath through fields and over stiles to lane by Boscean Farm.
2
6
5
6.7km/4¼ miles Turn L. Take R fork into valley. Reaching lane, turn R and after only 10m L. Follow track uphill. Continue between farm and engine house. Continue forward over stiles and footpath.
6
7.5km/4¾ miles At next engine house, turn R then immediately L along track. When track bears R, go straight ahead over stile and between cottages. Join track. At road, turn sharp L past Botallack Manor. Follow lane back to mine.
uDownload Ordnance Survey maps to your PC, GPS, iPhone, iPad and Android for just £12.50
© Country Walking October 2013
5 3
4
Start
✁
Trailzilla ID: TZID18751
signed Coast Path to cross Kendijack Valley by footbridge. Turn R at T-junction, signed ‘Cape Cornwall’. Reaching track turn R. Follow Coast Path to chimney on Cape Cornwall.
Start/parking Botallack mine, near metal headgear, grid ref SW365333 Is it for me? Coast Path, footpaths and quiet lanes. Several short, steep slopes Stiles 24 (some high)
Ordnance Survey mapping ©Crown Copyright in association with Memory-Map/Bauer Media’s Media Licence number 073/13
Photo: Robert Hesketh
chosen by… ROBERT HESKETH This walk combines stunning cliff scenery with poignant views of tin mines which were operating as recently as 1914. Amongst the chimneys, headgear and spoil heaps is a dramatic view of the iconic Crowns engine houses. Perched halfway down the cliff, they served Boscawen mineshaft. This descended diagonally 32.5 degrees beneath the sea and half a mile from shore to a depth of 250 fathoms (1,500ft). En route is Cape Cornwall, a superb viewpoint – watch for marine mega fauna, including sharks. We also visit Ballowall Barrow, a large and dramatic Bronze Age funerary monument. Two concentric drystone walls enclose stone-lined pits and chambers which yielded Bronze Age pottery and burnt bone.
Laun
Looe Fowey