The complete
guide to
Snowdonia UNLOCK THE FINEST WALKS, GREATEST SIGHTS AND WILDEST PL ACES IN WALES’ MOST SPECTACUL AR NATIONAL PARK
THE COMPLETE GUIDE TO SNOWDONIA
100
Explore From summiting Snowdon to seeking solitude: adventures for everyone!
pages of thrilling photography, insider secrets and expert-written routes
£6.99
FROM THE MAKERS OF
MAGAZINE
Snow Welcome to
Snowdonia
THE ANGRIEST OF THE UK’S NATIONAL PARKS , SNOWDONIA’S RUGGED AND BEAUTIFUL CHARM MAKES IT THE PL AYGROUND OF CHOICE FOR LOVERS OF THE ROUGH STUFF. Words Simon Ingram
High above the Ogwen Valley, with the glacial scoop of Y Garn’s immense eastern cwm to the left and the pyramidal outline of Pen yr Ole Wen to the right. TOM BAILEY
donia S
splintery, elemental version of the British mountain song. It’s a hard place, built differently, and battered with the scars of dead industry that it wears like a badge. Whereas the Lake District is defined by its lake-drowned valleys, for Snowdonia it is the ranges that dominate – each of a specific character that makes this area such a dramatic lure for the mountain lover. Moving north to south, Snowdonia begins with, to use the local terms, the Carneddau (high and rounded); then come the statuesque ridge-drawbridged Glyderau; the swirling, cloud-smothered
▲
nowdonia is Hyde to the Lake District’s Jekyll. Whereas the English National Park’s claims to fame are generally suffused with a cuddly and gentle aesthetic, the second you step over Snowdonia’s borders the knives are out. Here lie sharp rocks, heavy weather and ridgelines you could shave your legs on. Lake District means, um, ‘district of the lakes’. Snowdonia – in its proper Welsh, Eryri – means ‘place of eagles’ if the generally accepted translation is believed. Another translation is, simply, ‘high place’. If it isn’t either of these, nobody knows where the name came from. Regardless, there’s no competition in the enigmatic stakes. But the great thing is that Snowdonia’s different. When you’re here the air is charged with a different brand of electricity, painted from a particular palette of colours, and sings its own distinctively
Cadair A night on
IT’S THE MOUNTAIN WITH EVERY THING… INCLUDING CROWDS . HERE’S HOW TO CAMP, SCR AMBLE AND BUSHWHACK ACROSS ITS SLOPES TO PROVE ADVENTURE IS STILL ALIVE AND WELL ON CADAIR IDRIS . Words Dan Aspel Photographs Ben Weeks
Idris C
of Harlech, for instance, will reveal mentions of ‘tongues of fire on Idris flaring’). But most importantly it’s one of the finest single mountainscapes you can visit either side of Offa’s Dyke. If you haven’t already, you need to climb Cadair, and it’s fair to say that you’ll never truly know Wales until you do. The obvious bummer is the presence of 50,000 other walkers busying its slopes. Even in the Victorian age, an enterprising salesman would travel from Dolgellau
▲
adair Idris isn’t the highest mountain in Wales. Not even close. In fact, depending on how finely you split hairs, it only just scrapes into the top 20. It’s not a 3000er, it’s barely in Snowdonia and most people outside of the hillwalking world will look at you blankly if you tell them you’ve climbed it. So, what has Cadair got going for it? The short answer is: everything. In 2013 an estimated 49,235 walkers trod its slopes, a mere ninth of the hordes that summited Snowdon. This makes it popular… but not too popular, and it remains a mountain for those with developed tastes. Its sense of exclusivity is heightened by the unusual wealth of myth and fable it boasts – even by Welsh standards; and if you look hard enough you’ll find poetic references to Cadair in surprising places (singing certain versions of Men
Cadair Idris
Setting up a stunning wild camp outside the Cadair Idris summit shelter.
Walking into history THE SECRET CROWN OF THE RHINOGS A stone circle of mystery and atmosphere... Bryn Cader Faner
Bryn Cader Faner, standing alone and remote on the flanks of the Rhinogs.
f you learn anything from reading this, make it these two important lessons: (1) maps lie; and (2) the scratty fringes of mountain ranges hide secrets. Look at an OS sheet and your eyes are drawn up over the contours to the summits. You trace valleys and routes towards them, crave their height, feel compelled towards their emptiness. But important things on the fringes are missed, or hide within unfamiliar words in the shadow of bigger things. Take the Rhinogs. Rhinog Fach and Rhinog Fawr are the obvious gravitation points here, and they’re well-proven as rough playgrounds for summit-hunters: the previous pages should tell you that much. Then you have the lesser-known tops of Diffwys, and the one with the odd, atheistic name: Moel Ysgyfarnogod.
I
back
THINK YOU KNOW NORTH WALES? YOU WON ’T BELIEVE YOU ’ VE MISSED THESE HISTORIC GEMS HIDING IN PL AIN SIGHT...
Words Simon Ingram & Ben Weeks Photographs Tom Bailey
underplaying the significance of something that should be a hell of a lot more famous than it is. Because, in its own modest way, this is an icon: the Stonehenge of Snowdonia. And you almost missed it. This part of Snowdonia is visually exciting already. Seemingly in a hinterland between the sea and mountains, the whole of the northern ranges stretch out across the horizon, tapering into the Llyn Peninsula, beneath which the sea creeps into the view in a beautiful and dramatic bay. Look at this quarter of north Wales on a map and the coast strikingly resembles a figure in profile, finger pointing down into the Irish Sea. Anglesey is the head, the slash of Malltraeth Sands the mouth, Holy Island a kind of Pharaonic topknot. The Llyn Peninsula is the outstretched arm, and this rugged area of mountains is the muscled torso. Bryn Cader Faner you could call a kind of ceremonial tattoo – one put there nearly 3,000 years ago. It is an almost perfect stone circle, but one of such singular drama, once seen it never leaves your memory. Firstly, this thing feels remote. ▲
But not far from the latter, in a part of the Rhinogs range you probably wouldn’t go to find wonderful wildness, there is a trio of Welsh words that most won’t recognise or think anything of. On the map, whatever this thing is, cartographically it looks like it’s in a messy place. Dropped casually within a squid of paths, nestling innocently between a dirt track and a jumble of frantic crags. No archaic writing, no cross-hatched outline or blue-hued information decal. Just a generic black star – signifying the beckoning-sounding ‘visible earthwork’ – and that name: Bryn Cader Faner. Then you see a picture of it, and suddenly you get angry. Angry with the map for
Secret su EVEN REGUL AR VISITORS TO THE NATIONAL PARK CAN GET STUCK IN A RUT, SO LOOK BE YOND THE CL ASSIC S TO A WHOLE NEW WORLD OF WILD WALKING ...
Words Ben Winston Photographs Tom Bailey
’m going to tell you something you already know. Something so obvious that you don’t think of it very often, yet has the potential to revolutionise your walking life. Grab hold of something sturdy, because this is it: Snowdonia has many mountains. Now... who didn’t already know that? Yet for some reason, most of us work on a subconscious belief that Snowdonia has only 14 mountains, all over 3,000ft. We come here for the classics: Snowdon, the Glyders, Tryfan, the Carneddau – and we happily climb them time and again. And yet, beyond those main ranges, hundreds of smaller peaks await. Sadly, I am as bad a pioneer as the next walker. I always end up on the same old reliably brilliant routes. And I’m not alone. Any
I
mmits beautiful Y Lliwedd. Moelwyn Mawr (770m) looked a bit more interesting, but I still couldn’t escape the feeling that I was travelling a long way to walk up something obscure when I could be scrambling a favourite line on the Glyders. Or discovering yet another new route up Snowdon. The first hint that our leftfield approach might work was on the drive from Capel Curig in
Moelwyns & Arenigs
▲
weekend this year, people will crowd to classics like Bristly Ridge, Adam and Eve or the Snowdon Horseshoe. They’ll be out in force on the Glyders. But what about Arenig Fawr? Ever heard of Moel Siabod, where you can see 13 of Snowdonia’s highest without having to turn your head? Or how about Moelwyn Mawr, where a superb secret scramble awaits? These are just some of the hidden stash of Welsh mountains that will enrich your walking life. Searching just such enrichment, we packed our walking boots and loaded our rucksacks, then headed for north Wales. For my part, I was mildly sceptical. I’d checked out 854m Arenig Fawr on a map (it’s near Bala), but found my gaze drifting across to the greater peaks: the stunning ridge of Crib Goch and the
Dawn breaks over Llyn Stwlan on Moelwyn Mawr. A long way from the madding crowds.
Mountain
Icons Glyders
YOU MIGHT HAVE SEEN THEM BEFORE, BUT WHEN THE Y ’RE ALL THAT’S BEST ABOUT NORTH WALES , MAYBE YOU SHOULD SEE THEM AGAIN… Words Ben Weeks Photographs Matthew Roberts
P
This particular adventure began in Pinnacle Stores in Capel Curig, where we were eyeing up the postcards. Among the chocolate-box landscapes and closeups of sheep, a handful featuring iconic Snowdonian landmarks leapt off the rack. The Cantilever in silhouette, Castle of the Wind at sunrise, Bristly Ridge in profile, Adam and Eve at dawn, the Cannon Stone from the side. These images intrigued and enticed, the subjects demanding to be explored and the viewer craving to be there in place of the anonymous figure in the photographs. What’s more, all ▲
opularity is not necessarily a reliable indication of quality; the music charts are a prime example. Often, then, the more popular something is, the less likely we are to be interested. This applies to mountains, too. As walkers and climbers we’re always keen to find somewhere away from the crowds – a secretive peak that only a handful appreciate. And, just like that band we were a fan of before anybody else, when they’re discovered by the masses and no longer just for us, we’ll turn our backs on them while shouting accusations of ‘selling out’ over our shoulder and go in search of the next great unknown. However, sometimes, just sometimes, the masses get it right and a subject’s popularity is a deserved reflection of how awesome it is.
Admiring the view to Snowdon from the spectacular rock formation of Glyder Fach’s Castell y Gwynt.
SNOWDONIA’S SCARIEST RIDGE Teetering on the crest of Snowdonia’s most infamous rock crest, with the south-western slopes of Glyder Fawr behind.
Crib Goch Could YOU walk this ridge?
IT ISN ’T JUST YOUR SCR AMBLING SKILLS THAT GET PUT TO THE TEST ON CRIB GOCH – IT’LL LEAVE YOU QUESTIONING YOUR SANIT Y. Words Hanna Lindon Photographs Tom Bailey
T
▲
his is it. I’m going to die. And there’s still an uneaten goat’s cheese quiche in my backpack. That’s the kind of thought that pops up and punches you in the gut halfway across Snowdonia’s gnarliest knife-edge ridge. By this time, of course, it’s already too late: the only thing that’s going to get you to your quiche or sandwich or whatever defines the sweetness of life for you at that moment is a hairy downclimb or the willpower to gird your trembling loins and press on. By the way – that downclimb? Unless you fancy becoming a mountain rescue statistic then don’t even try. And, when you think about it, that really leaves you with just one option… Crib Goch. There are only two reasons why those pithy monosyllables wouldn’t strike the fear of God into your soul. Either you eat Alpine ridges for breakfast and wash them down with a spot of deep water soloing, or you haven’t heard of it. If you fit into the latter category, then allow me to introduce a mountain that’s been around for a long, long time and stolen many a man’s soul and faith. If Snowdon is a grouchy old grandpa surrounded in a
Crib Goch
Ever Britain’s
BEFORE EVEREST THERE WAS SNOWDON: TR AINING GROUND FOR GENER ATIONS OF HIMAL AYAN HEROES . AND THE T WO PEAKS HAVE MORE IN COMMON THAN YOU MIGHT THINK .
Words Dan Aspel Photographs Tom Bailey
ever offer a mountaineer a free drink; it was nearly the ruin of the Rum Doodle. That’s Kathmandu’s favourite post-expedition watering hole, by the way, which promised free ‘refreshments’ to any Everest summiteer who made it back their way to celebrate. The fault was underestimating their thirst, and it wasn’t a good way to stay in business. This cautionary tale comes courtesy of Alan Hinkes, the first Briton to climb all 14 of Earth’s 8000m mountains, and partial to a real ale himself. But we’re not in that bustling city of the east, we’re in the wood-panelled Pen-y-Gwryd Hotel at the foot of Snowdon. Within this charming refuge is a wealth of Himalayan memorabilia. “How could you walk in these?” wonders Alan. He’s holding a vintage mountaineering boot in his hand, the weight of just one of these iron-clad bowling balls defying the laces by which they’re strung to the ceiling. Surrounded by similar pairs, and guarded by alpenstocks and oxygen sets, they’re just the tip of the iceberg. The owner has much more to show us. To start with there’s the ‘Everest Room’. Aside from the glorious open fire and heartily carved benches it has one major feature: the signatures of a century of mountaineers on its ceiling. Look up and they spread in every direction, ranging from Noel Odell to Bill Tilman to Sir John Hunt. It has this in common with the Rum Doodle. Many of the names written here are mimicked in the Nepalese bar, 6,000 miles to the south-east.
N
▲
Snowdon’s sheer north-east face, seen from the upper slopes of the Pyg Track.
Snowdon
est
CLASSIC ROUTES
Snowdon Horseshoe
6
THERE ARE MANY ROUTES UP WALES’ HIGHEST PEAK , BUT THIS ONE SETS THE PULSE R ACING LIKE NO OTHER .
Illustration Jeremy Ashcroft
s soon as you catch sight of Snowdon there can be no doubt about its status as the highest peak in Wales. Majestic and refined, the impressive proportions of its pyramidal lines are instantly recognisable. Often described as having five ridges and five cwms in a star-like symmetry, this description is apt – but only tells half the story. The ridges have numerous spurs and crags, while the corries are twisted and multi-levelled. Snowdon covers an area greater than that of the Glyders, and almost the size of the entire Carneddau range. Snowdon’s crags and ridges are intertwined with the history of Welsh mountaineering. From the early days of climbing on Y Lliwedd’s north face to modern routes on Clogwyn Du’r Arddu, and from the highway-like Llanberis Path to the secretive scramble of the Clogwyn y Person Arête, it is a mountain that provides adventure for all who step on it. But one route above all others tops every wish list – and that is the Snowdon Horseshoe.
A
Snowdon
TOM BAILEY
Keeping high on Crib Goch, the first section of the horseshoe.
94 CO M P L E T E G U I D E TO S N OW D O N I A
IS IT FOR ME?
5
Very strenuous and with several steep and exposed sections: confident scramblers only with particular caution required on Crib Goch.
4
3
2
Route stats Distance 12km (7.5 miles) Total ascent 1170m Time 6-8 hours Start/finish car park at Pen-y-Pass (SH647555) Terrain a high-level mountain walk with some sections of very exposed but technically simple Grade 1 scrambling on the ascent of Crib Goch, its subsequent traverse and the continuation to Garnedd Ugain Maps OS Landranger (1:50,000) 115; OS Explorer (1:25,000) OL17; Harvey British Mountain Map (1:40,000) Snowdonia Accommodation Youth Hostels: Pen-y-Pass 0845 371 9534, Bryn Gwynant 0845 371 9108 Tourist info Machynlleth (01654) 702401 Public transport park and ride on Snowdon Sherpa bus from Nant Peris, Capel Curig or Beddgelert: www. snowdoniagreenkey.co.uk Guidebooks Scrambles and Easy Climbs in Snowdonia by Jon Sparks, Tom Hutton and Jerry Rawson, pb Greystone Books
The route Pen-y-Pass is a 1 SH647555 popular place to park, so arrive early if you want to be sure of a space or get the bus up from Llanberis. Head out from the top of the car park onto an obvious path, marked as the Pyg Track. Follow this easily across the hillside, climbing steadily as you go until you arrive at the deeply cut saddle of Bwlch y Moch. SH633552 Scramble Turn right and follow the clear path along the crest of the saddle towards the obvious blunt nose of Crib Goch ahead. Make as direct an assault here as you feel comfortable with, and after the opening steep section the grade eases and you are left with a delightful staircase of small blocky holds that enable easy progress up the eastern summit.
2
SH625552 Scramble There’s little chance of going wrong now, as the narrow ridge ahead is the only option. Scramble carefully along it, using the crest itself for holds when the going gets steep. Continue like this to the first of the pinnacles, which can be scrambled easily enough or bypassed on clear paths, before a second similar pinnacle soon blocks your progress. This too can be scrambled easily enough or bypassed on a narrow path. Now continue into Bwlch Coch.
1
3
SH621551 Ahead now lies Garnedd Ugain, which offers more scrambling for those who want it, or a good path for those who have had
4
enough. Either way, continue along the ridge to the 1065m trig point and keep ahead to drop into Bwlch Glas, where you meet the main path from Llanberis and the railway line. Head left to Snowdon’s summit. SH609543 To descend, continue in the same direction to follow the south ridge until you reach a tall standing stone, where you turn left to follow an awkward, loose path down into Bwlch y Saethau. Now follow the good path towards Y Lliwedd and then, as it bears right, keep ahead to follow the crest of
5
the ridge. This soon jacks up into a steep, scrambly path, leading onto Y Lliwedd’s west peak. SH622533 Continue over the east peak and follow the escarpment along over Lliwedd Bach before the path bears left to descend steeply to join the Miners’ Track by the shores of Llyn Llydaw. Turn right onto this and follow it easily back down to the car park at Pen-y-Pass.
6
CO M P L E T E G U I D E TO S N OW D O N I A
95
SUBSCRIBE!
Sign up for a year of adventure WHEN YOU SUBSCRIBE TO TR AIL MAGAZINE Why subscribe? uEach copy will be delivered directly to your door, so you’ll never miss an issue.
uYou’ll get 13 issues packed with over 200 walking routes written by outdoor experts!
uYou’ll receive exclusive discounts on shop prices, plus special gifted offers.
uSubscribers receive free digital Ordnance Survey mapping for an entire year!
Visit greatmagazines.co.uk/trail or call 01858 438884 to sign up for a year of Trail! 96 CO M P L E T E G U I D E TO S N OW D O N I A
Every month Trail is packed with...
Inspirational outdoor writing and award-winning photography
The best walking routes for all abilities on the UK’s most exciting mountains
Expert reviews on all the latest outdoor gear and gadgets
All the skills and tips you need to stay safe and enjoy Britain’s high places
13 ISSUES PLUS GEAR GUIDE! Terms & conditions Subscriptions will start with the next available issue. The minimum term is 13 issues. Calls from a BT landline will cost no more than 4p a minute. Call charges from other landline providers or mobile phones may vary. Order lines open 8am-9.30pm (Mon-Fri), 8am-4pm (Sat). UK orders only. Overseas? Phone +44 1858 438884. Calls may be monitored or recorded for training purposes.
CO M P L E T E G U I D E TO S N OW D O N I A
97