Trail magazine July 2013

Page 1

L I V E

F O R

T H E

O U T D O O R S

LIVE FOR THE OUTDOORS

3 PEAKS SNOWDON SPECIAL 54km. TWO DAYS. ONE BIG TWIST...*

JULY 2013 £3.99

JULY 2013

ACROSS THE LAKES The hidden mountain route you MUST discover!

R

THE WILD NORTH

Scotland’s peaks of a lifetime PLUS

GEAR TESTS

SIERRA NEVADA Spain’s 3400m secret!

Solo tents Waterproofs

14 HILLWALKS

▲ Helvellyn’s silent ridge ▲ Classic Glen Coe ▲ South Wales trio

+ FREE! 32-PAGE CAMPING GUIDE the one that went straight for two days and kind of liked it

SNOWDON

+

9-PAGE ULTIMATE ROUTE GUIDE

rt zone Boost your scrambling comfo posed! take better photos hill people ex

*...or not! All is revealed on page 22


contents ‘Running between the peaks of Harrison Stickle and Pavey Ark, its looming mound looks much grander than our first challenge’ grade 2 scrambling above stickle tarn

base camp skills

adventures 67

Dream peak

10

Trail Skills

Out of this world!

12

How to take better outdoors photos, PLUS hill grub, choosing boots for yearround action, rucksack sizing explained

Crib Goch: there ain’t no easy way up it

The UK’s mountains, as seen from space

The Mountain Inquisition 14 Film-maker Alastair Lee spills the beans

Thank you from Nepal

16

You donated gear. Here’s what happened

High Lights: July

Your month of mountains, sorted

17

your trail Out There

4

Your best mountain moments, on camera

In Box

20

The world of hillwalking, according to you lot

Subscribe to Trail

56

Sign up and get a Sigg bottle or lunchbox!

subscribe and get a choice of sigg gifts!

ed godden

tom bailey

p50

p22

Behind the picture

18

Walking the 09 Line

22

The longest day

34

Another level

50

Sierra Nevada

77

It’s north Wales’ hills, in a subway map stylee Across the Lakes, without (much) deviation ...on the northernmost Munro, Ben Hope

Trail gets to grips with Grade 2 scrambling

p56

Spain has so much mountain fun on offer that even Grumpy Oli enjoyed himself


WHERE THIS MONTH’S ISSUE WILL TAKE YOU Stac Pollaidh and Suilven from Sgurr an Fhidhleir at sunrise.

p42

© DAVID ROBERTSON / ALAMY

ROUTES

GEAR Incoming!

84

Yorkshire Dales

115

Fjällräven Akka View

86

Lake District

117

Waterproof jackets

88

Snowdonia

119

One-person tents

98

NW Highlands

121

Central Highlands

123

South Highlands

125

Newlands Valley

129

The must-have hill kit that’s available soon

A spacious two-person tent for all seasons

Lightweight outer layers for warmer months Shelters for soloists, under 2.1kg and £220

Camping food

106

Which ready meals tickled our tastebuds?

MATTHEW ROBERTS

p98

Route 1 Gordale Scar Route 2 Helvellyn Route 3 Crib Goch Route 4 Ben More Coigach Route 5 Glen Coe south

Route 6 Stuc a’ Chroin & Ben Vorlich Route 7 Newlands Round Route 8 Coledale Round Route 9 Cat Bells

Black Mountains

135

Lake District

141

Route 10 Pen y Gadair Fawr Route 11 Hay Bluff Route 12 Waun Fach Route 13 Snowdon

3 PEAKS

COLLECTOR’S EDITION

JULY 2013 TRAIL 9


BASE CAMP

OUT OF THIS WORLD!

The British mountains as you’ve never seen them before, courtesy of the coolest tweets of all time...

Helvellyn

Skiddaw

Scafell Pike

Chris Hadfield @Cmdr_Hadfield

4 Mar

The English coast at Workington and Whitehaven, with the Lake District proving picturesque from any altitude.

Mount Brandon

Thunder Rock

Chris Hadfield @Cmdr_Hadfield

9 Apr

Thunder Rock, at the very western edge of Ireland, can see the Marina at Dingle.

View the full gallery, and look out for a bizarre remake of David Bowie’s Space Oddity video, by following Chris Hadfield on Twitter @Cmdr_Hadfield

12 TRAIL JULY 2013

© STEVE BLOOM IMAGES / ALAMY

W

e’re not totally sure how we’d kill time if we were stuck on the International Space Station (ISS) for five months, but it would probably revolve around reading back issues of Trail while chugging crates of Yewbarrow Ale. That’s probably why we don’t work for NASA and Commander Chris Hadfield does, because fortunately for the rest of the world he put his time on board the ISS to good use. The Canadian astronaut became an internet sensation and amassed almost 1 million Twitter followers by tweeting hundreds of fascinating images from space before returning to Earth on 13 May. His photographs ranged from the volcanoes of Hawaii to the bright lights of Dubai, but what really caught Trail’s eye was his British mountain collection. It showcased the diversity and unique geology of our islands, and proved that we have some of the most spectacular scenery on the planet. And if that’s still not quite enough for you, check out the final shot of the mighty Himalayas stretching around the globe. Commander Hadfield, we salute you!


happenings from high places OUTDOORS INDOORS

Ben Lomond Beinn Ime

Loch Lomond

Chris Hadfield @Cmdr_Hadfield

27 Feb

Scotland – from Prestwick to Glasgow, past Loch Lomond to Inveraray.

Trotternish Ridge

Red Cuillin

Black Cuillin

Chris Hadfield @Cmdr_Hadfield

27 Feb Isle of Skye, Scotland, with February snow on the peaks. Mist and mountains – a stirring landscape.

TWITTER IMAGES COPYRIGHT NASA

Get your mountain fix without leaving the sofa. This month… ...read this Wild Swimming If cooling off in lakes or rivers after a sweaty day on the hill is your thing, then this is the book for you. The second edition of Wild Swimming features 300 British wild swim locations, 150 of which are brand new. Packed with safety tips, spectacular photos and useful maps, it’s perfect for outdoor dippers. BUY IT FROM www.centralbooks.com (£16.99)

…WATCH THIS SteepEdge – download adventure This website’s mission is to make the best outdoor films available to watch whenever you want, wherever you are. You can buy or rent dozens of online movies, ranging from mountaineering and bouldering to Polar adventure and BASE jumping. We’d also recommend the very handy ‘free movies’ section. WATCH it ONLINE AT www.steepedge.com

...download this Hill Lists Walkers who are obsessed with lists will love this app, which has been fully updated for 2013. Your £1.49 buys facts and figures for 7,315 hills in the UK and Ireland, and even divides them into established tick-lists such as Wainwrights, Munros and the Trail 100 – so you can keep track of what you’ve climbed. DOWNLOAD IT FROM The App Store (£1.49)

…MAKE A BREW IN THIS Striding Edge mug The mug you drink from usually says quite a lot about your personality. This Striding Edge collection, which covers eight iconic Lake District locations, is currently brightening up desks all over the Trail office, which tells you pretty much everything you need to know about us. BUY THEM FROM www.lovethelakes.net (£10.99 each)

Better than a champagne fountain any day of the week.

Chris Hadfield @Cmdr_Hadfield

25 Feb Tonight’s finale: The Himalayas to the horizon, gives me such a feeling of wild grandeur. july 2013 Trail 13


base camp Your month of adventure starts here...

10 Trail july 2013


Sunrise over Crib Goch, standing proud in its own right – a little-seen view from the shores of Lyn Cwmffynnon. © ANDY TEASDALE / ALAMY

DREAM PEAK

CRIB GOCH SNOWDONIA If you’re in the market for a peak that takes you just that little bit out of your hillwalking comfort zone, look no further than Crib Goch. Despite being the second lowest of the famed Welsh 3000ers, the ‘Red Ridge’ is every inch a mountaineers’ mountain. The serrated edge leading to the spire at its 923m summit is the very definition of a ‘knife-edge’ arête, and the easiest route to the top is classed as a Grade 1 scramble. To put it bluntly, there ain’t no easy way up Crib Goch. You’ll need to be able to handle yourself in knee-tremblingly exposed situations, while possessing a composed head for heights and a good sense of balance. If we haven’t put you off yet, you’ll be pleased to hear that the daredevil ascent is well worth the effort. The still waters of Llyn Llydaw shimmer below the grandiose north face of Y Lliwedd to the south, while the imperial outline of Snowdon dominates the skyline to the west. This is what mountains are all about.

DO IT THIS MONTH! ›› TURN TO PAGE 119

JULY 2013 TRAIL 11


GO: The Lake District DO: Walk straight across!

WALK THE WOR DS PHOT TIM MA JOR O ED G GRAPHS ODD EN & TIM M AJOR

22 TRAIL JULY 2013

09 LINE


An a cc Welc ident of m ome to Th apping o r a po e 09 Line t – pos ential cl as sibly the g sic trave rse o reate f st ro ute y the Lake ou’ve D neve istrict? r hea rd of .


“Although not a major peak, Gummer's Howe is an ideal short walk from a car park so it attracts a variety of visitors. This couple had been given the kiddy carriers as a gift when their twins were born. It was the first occasion they had been used.“

PEOPLE OF THE HILLS

”I met up with a Duke of Edinburgh's group that was visiting the Lake District. Although the teenager in the picture looks apprehensive and has a clenched fist, he was very accommodating. He said he enjoyed the outdoors because ’It is fun and exciting to explore the hills. And when you live in a city it is fun to be in a calm environment.‘”

In a unique project, photographer Henry Iddon set out to capture what he calls ’the contemporary individuals who engage with the upland environment’. The resulting images form a unique cross-section of the characters who can rightly be called Britain's hill people. “This was a scorching midsummer day, and I'd neglected to pack any sun cream. Two young women were coming down the path towards me and kindly offered me some, and were happy to pose.“

58 TRAIL JULY 2013


“I was keen to reflect the popularity of the Remembrance Day service on Great Gable, with hopefully people wearing poppies. I met a group of men and took a variety of pictures; this is the one that worked for me. I had no idea if there was anyone specific in their thoughts.“

“These were students, with the rucksack carried and boots worn by the experienced walker as he introduced his pals to the pleasures of the Lake District. The sunburned man on the left seems particularly proud of his efforts – seemingly reminiscent of a Victorian explorer.“

“Not only do we see the upland landscape but we also experience it: the temperature, abrasion of the wind, textures underfoot, and the sound. This image shows a couple having virtually all their senses stimulated.“

“This was the first image in the series and is the only image of someone I already knew. My friend was doing a recce for the Helvellyn Triathlon. Unfortunately it was pouring with rain at the time and I had to be quick before he began to get cold.“

JULY 2013 TRAIL 59


GO: Nothern Scotland DO: 7 unmissable peaks

Beasts of the

Ben Hope isn’t the only mountain worth making the trip north for. Luckily, Scotland’s wild edge is home to the most astonishing mountains in Britain. Here are seven of the most essential… Words Simon Ingram

42 Trail july 2013


northern wild STAC POLLAIDH 612m

Small but striking, Stac Pollaidh is enormous fun if you like a bit of engaging scrambling and stupendous views. The qualities of both belie its modest height, but the structure of the mountain means that its crest is surprisingly labyrinthine, comprised of columns of broken rock and buttresses criss-crossed with gaping cracks and gullies filled with scree. Bagging the true summit involves a crux of great difficulty – Grade 2 – and requires supreme care, so don’t let anyone ever tell you Stac Pollaidh’s an easy hill. While anyone can get in among it and have a good old explore, this is a mountaineer’s mountain at heart.

© Richard Childs Photography / Alamy

Stac Pollaidh (front), Suilven (middle) and Quinag (rear) in morning light from Ben Mor Coigach. Get this view: see Route 4, page 121!

july 2013 Trail 43


3

PEAKS TOOLKIT

Snowdon via the Pyg Track FACTS STRENUOUSNESS NAVIGATION TECHNICALITY WELSH 3000ers TRAIL 100s

■■■■■ ■■■■■ ■■■■■ 1 1

Distance 10.6km (6½ miles) Total ascent 890m Time 4 hours Start/finish Pen-y-Pass (SH647556)

Ascending away from Pen-y-Pass. Snowdon

Bwlch Main

Crib y Ddysgl

Bwlch Glas

zigzags

Crib Goch

Bwlch Goch

N

ib

Rid

t

h

Glaslyn

t

s

in

d Ri

Gr

Ea

Y

or

cairn

West Peak Y Lliwedd East Peak Lliwedd Bach

© JULIAN CARTWRIGHT / ALAMY

Summary Skirts Crib Goch’s southern slopes high above the beautiful waters of Llyn Llydaw and Glaslyn. The over-zealous techniques used to reconstruct the zig-zag path below Bwlch Glas tend to detract from the wild setting through which the Pyg Track passes.

TOM BAILEY

Terrain rocky slopes, craggy corries, steep head wall, exposed col and broad summit ridge; easy-to-follow paths and tacks with some steep sections. The zigzags are prone to hard snow and ice in winter

ge

Pyg Tra ck

Miners’ Track

west as the path skirts across the southern slopes of Crib Goch to a junction with the Miners’ Track high above Glaslyn. From the junction climb the steep zigzags west up the head wall to Bwlch LA Glas. At Bwlch Glas the NB E path joins the Llanberis Path The Horns R I S (bridleway), which is taken PA SS south then south-southeast to Snowdon’s A4 08 summit. 6

Ascent From Pen-y-Pass take the Pyg Track westsouth-west to Bwlch y Moch. Cross Bwlch y Moch and continue westBwlch y Moch south-west then L

ge

Llyn Llydaw

Cwm Dyli

Creig Craig Llyn Teyrn Llyn Teyrn

NO

RT

Gallt y Wenallt

NH

Mi ne

148 TRAIL JULY 2013

YHA

rs’ Track

START/ FINISH

Pen-y-Pass


best for... quick ascent

Descent From the summit station take the bridleway north-north-west to Bwlch Glas. At the stone marker turn

GRADIENT PROFILE

METRES ABOVE SEA LEVEL

east and descend the zigzags towards Glaslyn. Midway down the corrie head wall the path splits. Take the left-hand

fork (the right is the Miners’ Track) and follow it east then east-north-east across the southern slopes of Crib Goch

Bwlch y Moch

Pen-y-Pass

Snowdon

1400 1200 1000 800 600 400 200

MILES KILOMETRES

Bwlch Glas

0 0

1 1

2 2

to Bwlch y Moch. Continue east-north-east across Bwlch y Moch then make the final descent to Pen-y-Pass.

3

Bwlch Glas

4 5

Pen-y-Pass

Bwlch y Moch

3 4

The stone pillar at the head of the Pyg Track at sunrise.

6

7

5 8

6 9

10

july 2013 Trail 149


GO: Lake District DO: Grade 2 scrambling

50 Trail july 2013


Steph gets hands-on in Langdale, one of the Lake District's top scrambling spots.

ANOTHER LEVEL No ropes, no paths, no worries. Could Grade 2 scrambling be your ticket to rockbound bliss? Trail grabbed an expert instructor and found out. WORDS DAN ASPEL PHOTOGRAPHS TOM BAILEY

T

o begin with, some wisdom: “Learn to walk off-path and you’ll develop a skill for reading mountain routes and the shape of a hill,” veteran guide John Mason tells me. “That way you’ll start to understand the architecture of a mountain.” I drink it in. Clearly there’s more to Grade 2 scrambling than meets the eye. I’ve come to Great Langdale – that central Lakeland festival of spires and scree – to tackle tougher routes than a novice could attempt alone. What I’ve found is a lesson in something deeper, something that goes beyond mere technique. Basic scrambling, I’d had an inkling, is nothing more than instinct. It means using your hands for support on a steep route that strays beyond the comfort zone of general hillwalking. Think of Sharp Edge on Blencathra or Jack’s Rake on Pavey Ark – exposed, thrilling, and potentially hazardous, but essentially routes of clarity and ❯

JULY 2013 TRAIL 51


Soaking up southern Spain’s mixture of sunshine and snow – and not a straw donkey in sight.

T

Approaching 3085m with Mulhacén, mainland Spain’s highest mountain, looming large in the background

78 Trail JULY 2013

Grabbing some much-needed shade and admiring the decorations in an abandoned military lookout.

here’s nothing quite like the act of discovery. My personal favourites include stumbling into an unfamiliar pub, or getting my hands on a boxfresh ice axe (I’m weird like that). But this month Trail has gone one better: we’ve found ourselves a new mountain range. The Sierra Nevada is truly unique. It’s the kind of place where you can stand on a 3000m summit in the morning and still have time to hit the beach in the afternoon. Somewhere you can lose yourself among gargantuan peaks for days on end without seeing another soul, yet still cross the entire range in less than a week. It’s a land where griffon vultures and golden eagles patrol the skyline; where you’ll be strapping on snowshoes one minute then slapping on sun cream the next; and if that’s still not good enough, it just happens to be western Europe’s highest range outside the Alps. Throw in the fact it’s only a short drive from the bars and clubs of Spain’s infamous Costa del Sol, and you realise you’re staring our continent’s best-kept secret square in the face. This forgotten world of limestone giants has been ignored by hillwalkers and mountaineers for decades, but it’s out there waiting for you to explore right now. Let’s kick off with some facts about Spain’s mysterious mountains. The ‘snowy range’ was formed some 65 million years ago when the African and Eurasian continental plates collided. Its highest peak, Mulhacén (3479m), is the tallest mountain in mainland Spain. Although the whole group only stretches around 75km from west to east, there are more than 30 peaks standing taller than 3000m, most of which can be bagged in a spectacular four-day trek. The region is home to over 1,700 species of plants, and in 1998 its combination of rugged mountains, green valleys and exotic wildlife gained official recognition when it was granted National Park status, yet still the area remains ignored by both locals and tourists. What Trail wanted to know was: why? So we headed to Stansted Airport, hopped on a two-hour budget flight to Malaga, then completed the 75-mile drive through Andalusia’s charming mix of Mediterranean coastline and abundant olive groves to the historic spa town of Lanjarón, nestled high on the southern slopes of the range. We’d left home at 6am and had reached our destination by lunchtime. This sleepy Spanish settlement, with its narrow streets, ruined Moorish castle, pure mountain air, sea views and tapas bars is a perfect mountain base camp. And,


southern spain unlike overcrowded tourist honeypots like Chamonix or even Ambleside, we virtually had the entire place to ourselves. But we weren’t there to sightsee: we were there for adventure. Richard, our guide for the weekend, knows the enigmatic Sierra Nevada better than most. He first explored the area on a holiday from his UK-based accountancy job in the 1990s, before returning to England long enough to quit his job, pack his bags and return to southern Spain. He’s lived in Lanjarón ever since and his guiding company provides activities for anyone wanting a piece of the Sierra Nevada. Our plan was to discover the hidden secrets of these mountains in one long weekend. Could it be done? Richard’s answer was an emphatic yes. He devised a thrilling three-day schedule that involved trekking to a 2500m mountain hut (worryingly referred to as a ‘ruin’ in his emails) on the afternoon of our first day. We would spend the night there before making the push to a 3100m summit the following morning. From that peak we would drop into a vulture-infested valley before snowshoeing our way over fast-melting snow bridges towards Lanjarón. If we were up for it, we would spend the following morning scrambling on the jagged limestone cliffs of the 1900m ‘Peak of the Dead’ before heading back to the airport. We were most definitely up for it, so we chucked our gear in the back of Richard’s 4x4 and began a white-knuckle jeep journey that bypassed the Sierra Nevada’s dusty foothills and deposited us around 500m below the snowline in an intensely aromatic pine forest. We’d been on the move for less than 10 minutes and already I was falling in love with the place – the variety of landscapes and terrain was astonishing. There we were, at 2000m in blazing sunshine and 20 deg C heat, strolling through a forest that wouldn’t look out of place in southern England, but with views to match anything on the planet. Our route climbed steadily through a secluded valley that exploded with wildlife. Curious ibex stalked us through the trees, alpine swifts screamed around our heads, deadly processionary caterpillars stared out silently from their nests among the pines (seriously, look these things up) and golden eagles soared above us. After a couple of hours on undulating tracks, we crossed a thunderous mountain river, then headed off-piste across steep scree slopes as the Sierra Nevada’s highest peaks unfolded in front of us. We had to keep reminding ourselves we were just two hours from England, not thousands of miles from home � in the Himalayas or Canadian Rockies.

Scrambling on the Peak of the Dead; we didn’t ask how it got its name.

juLY 2013 Trail 79


GROUP TEST

ONE-PERSON

TENTS Solo backpacking tents needn’t break your back or the bank, as this selection – all coming in under 2.1kg and £220 – proves…

TEST GRAHAM THOMPSON PHOTOGRAPHS MATTHEW ROBERTS

C

amping and backpacking solo is perhaps the ultimate wilderness escape – though you may also want a solo tent to sleep in when you go with a mate, to escape their snoring! With any one-person tent the weight has to be kept to a minimum because you need to be able to carry it comfortably; but there are limits on how small the tent can be, as it still needs to be big enough for you and your kit. Weight is most easily reduced by using lighter fabrics, but they can be expensive, so in this test we are concentrating on the more affordable price range of £120 to £220, which, while not cheap, does allow you to get a tent weighing 2.1kg or less. On offer are tents of all different shapes and sizes, and not surprisingly in this price bracket there are compromises that have been made along the way with all these models. Living space is one factor that is easily trimmed when saving weight so it is important to think about how much room you really need. Then there is the choice between single-skin tents, which tend to have more problems with condensation, or more conventional two-skin designs, where the flysheet has an inner tent inside. Finally of course there is cost, and the lightest tents often have the highest price tags, so you may find you are more prepared to ❯ compromise on weight or features to save some cash.

98 TRAIL JULY 2013


one-person tents what we tested Aztec Rapido £120 Karrimor X Lite X1 £120 Robens Starlight 1 £120 Gram-Counter Gear Litehouse Solo £143 Nordisk Svalbard PU £150 Wild Country Zephyros 1 Lite £180 Kelty Gunnison 1.2 £200 Force Ten Helium 100 £220

july 2013 Trail 99


group test What to look for in a

one-person tent

Flysheet

Headroom

This provides protection against the rain, and it is made from nylon or polyester that is treated with polyurethane or silicone to make it waterproof. Broadly speaking the heavier the fabric the longer it will last, but lightweight nylons are often treated with ultraviolet (UV) light inhibitors to improve their long-term performance. A flysheet that reaches the ground around the edges will keep more rain out, while a fly with a big air gap around the base will help reduce condensation.

You cannot sit up in all tents, as lighter often means smaller! To be sure you can sit up, get a friend to measure your height when sitting, then compare this to the maximum internal height of the inner tent.

How Trail did the test Manufacturers were asked to send in products that matched our criteria of being a one-person tent priced between ÂŁ120 and ÂŁ220. We received nine tents, and they were whittled down to the top eight finalists featured here. They were used in the Lake District.

Inner tent You sleep inside the inner, and it protects the occupant from the condensation that will inevitably form on the underside of the flysheet as well as midges that will easily fly under it! Some inner tents have large mesh panels to improve airflow while also reducing weight, but they can be colder and draughtier.

Weight

Porch

Pitching

Guy lines

Manufacturers supply weights but it is not always clear what these weights include. All weights in this test are for the tent inner and outer, poles, pegs as well as stuffsacks. Some weights provided by manufacturers do not include the stuffsacks, or all the pegs. Additional weight you may need to consider will be for repair kits, spare pegs and additional guy lines for stormy weather.

This space outside the inner but under the flysheet is ideal for stashing rucksacks and wet gear, and to act as a cooking area. If this is too small or non-existent you’ll have to think carefully where you are going to store your wet gear.

Inner-pitched-first designs save weight, are more stable and are ideal for pitching in dry conditions. Outer-pitched-first designs are better if camping in the rain, as the inner can be protected from the rain while pitching.

A set of cords are sometimes provided to help stabilise a tent in high winds. Again to save weight the manufacturer may not supply these but they may provide tie-on points for them. Some tents need fewer guy lines than others, as some designs are mechanically stronger due to clever design.

100 Trail july 2013


one-person tents Aztec Rapido £120 The Rapido is more of a basic shelter than a conventional tent, as you get just a single-skin design with no inner and no porch. But there is lots of space inside and you get all that for just 1745g and £120, which is very appealing. There is just one main pole and so it pitches easily with this sliding through a sleeve around the outside of the tent. You then have to get inside to fit a short pole that goes inside the tent at one end. Pitching would be even easier if the pegging points had additional bungees or cords to allow pegs to be positioned in a wider range of locations to avoid any small rocks. Once erected, the Rapido is pretty stable, although others do shed wind better. The only door is on the side and this has double zip pulls so you could vent the top

of it if needed; inside this there’s a zip-out midge door. There is an acre of space inside, which is important, because you’ll need to bring all your kit inside as there is no porch. Condensation and damp gear could mean the inside is not fully dry though, so care will be needed; but it’s superb for saving weight and having lots of living space.

Verdict

An extremely spacious shelter that has room for two inside plus gear, but the drawbacks are that it’s a single-skin design and it has no porch. ratings features design weight performance value

✱✱✱ ✱✱✱ ✱✱✱✱✱ ✱✱✱ ✱✱✱

overall

✱✱✱

Inserting the short vertical pole inside the tent (left); the outer door has a convenient separate midge door (right) to allow venting.

Karrimor X Lite X1 £120 It’s the innovative configuration of the pre-assembled flexible pole set that gives this tent the edge. The poles are shockcorded together and to pitch the tent all that is needed is to locate the colour-coded pole ends into their matching eyelets on the webbing at the corners of the inner tent, with a final red pole clipping to an eyelet on top of the inner. The fly goes over the top and is fastened with quick-release buckles while ladder-lock webbing allows it to be tensioned. This gives a stable dome with a front porch. The outer door has double zips so it can be opened from the top for ventilation and to peek outside, or from the bottom to fully open it. Once opened you get a spacious porch with room to enter the tent easily as well as to cook in and store a rucksack. The inner tent also has decent

headroom that extends a decent distance from the centre giving space to move around, making this a very comfortable option. There is no ventilation, apart from airflow that comes up from the base of the flysheet and by opening the top of the door, so condensation may be an issue, while the weight of 1956g is relatively heavy. But at this price it’s a bargain.

Verdict

A very well-priced tent that is also spacious and stable; but there are lighter options, and other tents have mesh inners or vents to improve condensation control. ratings features design weight performance value

✱✱✱✱✱ ✱✱✱✱ ✱✱✱ ✱✱✱✱ ✱✱✱✱

overall

✱✱✱✱

The unique interlocking pole set provides a taut and spacious inner (left); there is a good headroom and porch space too (right).

july 2013 Trail 101


USED & ABUSED What kit do you need to tackle southern Spain’s 3000m peaks? Trail has the answers…

PODSACS Ultralight stuffsack multipack £18.50 I’ve always used bulky rucksack liners in the past, but I can honestly say that switching to a selection of smaller dry bags is one of the best decisions I’ve made with outdoor kit – mainly because it’s finally allowed me to bring some organisation to my usually chaotic rucksack. The Podsacs multipack contains three bags – 7 litre, 4 litre and 2.5 litre – allowing you to separate things like food, gadgets and clothing, while also making sure your gear stays dry. ❯❯ www.podsacs.com

108 TRAIL JULY 2013


TRIP REPORT T R I P R E P O RT

OLI REED Sierra Nevada See page 77 JULBO Tensing sunglasses £35 I used to spend a fortune on sunglasses, then either lose or break them within a fortnight. One particularly painful memory involves watching a £200 pair of Oakleys disappear into the distance on a Greyhound bus in California. Ever since that day I’ve constantly searched for budget shades that do the often overlooked job of protecting my eyes, without making me look like too big a tool (not an easy task). These Julbos, with their flexible frame and Spectron 3+ polycarbonate lenses, certainly passed the first test; I’ll let you decide on the second. ❯❯ www.julbo-eyewear.com/en

MONTANE Hyena jacket £140 This is the hardest trip I’ve ever had to pack for because although we tackled deep snow and dodgy ice slopes, we also had to deal with temperatures soaring above 30 deg C. What I needed was a soft shell that would keep out the wind while providing decent insulation when the sun dropped, and this was perfect. I also specifically chose the Hyena because it doesn’t have a hood. It’s not that I’ve got anything against hoods, but they always seem to get in the way when I’m wearing multiple layers. The hoodless collar also helped reduce weight in my pack when I wasn’t wearing the jacket and kept my neck cool in the baking heat. ❯❯ www.montane.co.uk

FIZAN Aconcagua Concept trekking poles £70 Never mind the years of intensive research and thorough testing that’s gone into developing Fizan’s Concept locking system: what really impresses me about these poles is that I’ve got a personalised pair with my name emblazoned on them. And if, like me, you like looking flash in front of your walking buddies, you can do the same by emailing sales@allcord.co.uk and requesting an order form. ❯❯ www.fizan.it

The biggest compliment I can pay these boots is to say that for three days I totally forgot I was wearing them. They were sturdy enough to tackle the winter elements of our trip, such as kicking steps in snow and walking in crampons, but were also light and flexible enough to help me scramble easily to the top of the terrifyingly named Peak of the Dead. La Sportiva’s website says “This boot makes you feel like a wood nymph bounding through the mountains.” I’m not quite sure I’d go that far, but they did make me feel pretty good. ❯❯ www. lasportiva.com

BERGHAUS Bioflex Light 50 £120 I got off to a bad start with this rucksack. In defence of the Bioflex it’s hardly designed to have bulky plastic snowshoes lashed to it, but that’s exactly what I tried to do – and I paid the price when a side compression strap ripped while I was loading it up. That early setback aside, it carried everything I needed for three heavy days on the hill, and was amazingly comfortable thanks to the pivoting waistbelt. It’s probably more suited to lightweight summer camping gear than heavy-duty winter kit, and I wish it had some external webbing so I could stash more gear on the outside of the pack, but if you’re looking for a big rucksack that won’t weigh you down too much, you won’t find many better. ❯❯ www.berghaus.com

PHOTOGRAPH BEN WEEKS THE PRICES GIVEN ARE THE ORIGINAL COST OF THE ITEM

LA SPORTIVA Trango S Evo GTX £235

JULY 2013 TRAIL 109


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Ullapool

12.5km/7¾ miles

Inverness Shiel Bridge Aviemore

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A new view at every turn

Aberdeen

Braemar

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FACTS

Glasgow

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Edinburgh

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Newlands Round

NY233194 From the car park in Little Town Dumfries head north-west up the road Newcastle Newton Stewart a short distance to the start -upon-Tyne Carlisle ranraer of the Hause Gate bridleway Penrith Keswick on the right. This ancient Middlesbrough packhorse route climbs Northallerton Windermere Kendal steadily across the fellside Ingleton to gain the notch on the Bentham York ridge between Cat Bells and Lancaster Skipton Maiden Moor. Maiden Moor Leeds is the first real summit on the Distance 12.5km Liverpool Manchester main horseshoe walk and is Rhyl (7¾ miles) Conway reached from Hause Gate Sheffield Bodelwyddan Total ascent 925m by following the main crest Betws-y-Coed TimeLlangollen 5-6 hours south. The first bit is fairly steep but it soon eases back Start/finish Little Derby Barmouth to give a pleasant climb and Town, near Keswick Peterborough Aberystwyth is blessed with wide-ranging NY233194 Birmingham views in all directions. Ayr

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uninteresting slope. Dale Head is the highest peak of the round and it’s also a fantastic viewpoint.

Dalehead Tarn, Launchy Tarn and High Scawdale Tarn. Dalehead Tarn is the largest and with its surrounding rocks it makes a sheltered place to stop, but it’s also worth taking in the other two as their settings are stunning. The ascent to the summit of Dale Head from the shoulder is the hardest of the day. It’s a slog up a uniform and rather

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crest with lofty drops but without the exposure you normally get in such places, as it’s just a lofty walking path rather than a rocky scramble. At its western end Hindscarth Edge merges into a raised dome with two ridges splitting off. Littledale Edge continues west and is ignored; the onward route is via the northern ridge to the summit of Hindscarth. The path down off Hindscarth is fairly obvious, but its course is worth checking on a compass, particularly in poor visibility, as it’s easy to confuse it with the subsidiary ridge leading to the precipitous craggy ground of Squat Knotts.

NY214157 Hindscarth Edge has the excitement of a narrow

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Nearest town Keswick Hay-on-Wye

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Terrain village Gloucester roads, Brecon NY237181 The packhorse track, broad summit of Maiden Oxford cols, steep fellside, high Moor is a little nondescript Swansea mountain ridges, narrow and to get the best out of it Cardiff Bristol cols, shapely summits you need to explore its edge

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Maps OS Landranger Minehead (1:50,000) 90; OS Explorer OL4; Exeter (1:25,000)Poole Harvey Superwalker (1:25,000) Lakeland Plymouth Central; British Mountain Maps (1:40,000) Lake District

to take in its surroundings. The next leg towards High Brighton a little Spy only involves height gain and is a real delight along an elevated crest. The views are good on both sides; but perhaps the most dramatic are down into the upper reaches of the Newlands Valley, so if it’s clear, it’s worth walking along the narrow path on that side of the ridge rather than the main path on the crest. However there are steep crags directly below the edge path, so take care not to venture too far west.

Southampton

Guidebooks A Pictorial Guide to the Lakeland Fells The North Western Fells by A Wainwright, pb Frances Lincoln In association with

To get this route and maps on your phone now, go to www.viewranger.com/trail Route code TRL0412

GRADIENT PROFILE

MILES KILOMETRES

130 TRAIL JULY 2013

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Scope End rises up with Hindscarth behind and Robinson to the right.

NY231152 From High Spy a gentle descent leads down to a scoopedout shoulder on the eastern side of Dale Head. This unusual feature is a mix between col, hanging corrie and moorland. It’s another area worthy of exploration and also makes a fine spot for lunch. Scattered across the shoulder are three tarns: High Spy

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NY217174 Above High Crags the path swings north-east and descends Scope End. At the foot of the ridge turn sharp right and follow the path through a zigzag to the farm at Low Snab. Now follow the track to the church then turn right along the lane to join the road back to the start at Little Town.

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© STEVE HARLING / ALAMY

ORDNANCE SURVEY MAPPING © CROWN COPYRIGHT. CREATED WITH MEMORY-MAP. LICENCE MEDIA089/12

Pembroke

Bodmin

ALWAYS TAKE A MAP OUT WITH YOU ON THE HILL

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Hindscarth High Crags

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LAKE DISTRICT 17km/10½ miles

ALWAYS TAKE A MAP OUT WITH YOU ON THE HILL

Wainwrights galore

Coledale Round

NY186218 From Sand Hill descend south-south-east to the deep col of Coledale Hause. From here Crag Hill can be climbed direct by heading south-south-east. If you want to also visit Grasmoor, head instead in a southsouth-west direction alongside the beck and gain the broad higher col between Crag Hill and Grasmoor. From here a path climbs easily west across Grasmoor’s summit plateau to the summit cairn. The best views lie a further few hundred metres west. Take care not to go too far because the slopes fall away to steep crags.

Above the cloud on Grisedale Pike .

Distance 17km (10½ miles) Total ascent 1500m Time 7-8 hours Start/finish Braithwaite, NY231236 Nearest town Keswick

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NY198202 From Sail descend to the next col in an east-north-east direction. The col is a junction of paths. Take the one that descends north-east and skirts the steep

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NY174203 From Grasmoor return east to the col and continue over it to gain Crag Hill. The descent to the southern ridge of the Coledale Round is the most precipitous part of the walk. It’s down a narrow arête with steep slopes on both sides. It isn’t scrambling as such because the path is pretty good, but care should be exercised – particularly in strong winds. This section is short-lived and you soon arrive at a narrow col. From here continue east up the short climb to Sail.

NY220219 You can descend back to the valley from Stile End but this misses out the fine whalebacked summit of Barrow. To climb Barrow descend south-south-east

TOM BAILEY

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Grisedale Pike

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fellside to gain the broad col/moss on the south-west side of Outerside. Ignore the path that branches off right; instead continue north-east and climb to the top of Outerside. Cross the summit then descend east-north-east to yet another col at Low Moss. Cross this and climb the little summit of Stile End.

Ascending Grisedale Pike.

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Hopegill Head

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to the col at Barrow Door then turn east then east-north-east for Barrow. This final summit makes a fitting end to the walk because it offers fine retrospective views of key parts of the day’s walk and also affords a high-level peek at Keswick and Derwent Water. From its summit the descent is a simple task of dropping north-east down the main ridge then following the path though Braithwaite Lodge then back to the village. Finish

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To get this route and maps on your phone now, go to www.viewranger.com/trail Route code TRL0413

Sail

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Maps OS Landranger (1:50,000) 90; OS Explorer (1:25,000) OL4; Harvey Superwalker (1:25,000) Lakeland Central; British Mountain Maps (1:40,000) Lake District

In association with

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Terrain village roads, steep fellside, high mountain ridges, narrow cols, broad cols, shapely summits, short rocky arête

Guidebooks A Pictorial Guide to the Lakeland Fells The North Western Fells by A Wainwright, pb Frances Lincoln

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JULY 2013 TRAIL 131

ORDNANCE SURVEY MAPPING © CROWN COPYRIGHT. CREATED WITH MEMORY-MAP. LICENCE MEDIA089/12

NY231236 From Braithwaite follow the B5292 towards Whinlatter, and after 300m there is a path on the left. Join it and follow it as it climbs steeply through a bend then heads west to gain the first summit, Kinn. This establishes you on the crest of the main ridge, and this is followed south-west first to Grisedale Pike then to Sand Hill and Hopegill Head.

FACTS STRENUOUSNESS NAVIGATION TECHNICALITY WAINWRIGHTS

© STEWART SMITH / ALAMY

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ROUTE


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