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Walk all winter! 8
adventurous destinations for snow-shy explorers
SNOWDONIA
Three routes to bag the best of Wales’ toothiest region
TENERIFE... FOR MOUNTAINEERS! the one that didn’t go bang but did almost get eaten by a stag
The awesome 3700m volcano begging for your boots
DESTINATION: WILDERNESS
Exploring the empty Howgills Bothying in Galloway
FEATURING...
Lake District valley epic Torridon’s wild coast North Wales waterfall walk SW Coast Path TOUGH KIT FOR THE COLD
4-SEASON BOOTS DUVET JACKETS
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Playing with pumice on Tenerife.
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TOM BAILEY
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Cosy down jackets, by budget.
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BEN WEEKS
Vital accessories to make bothying more bearable.
Scotland’s Ring of Steall will test your mettle.
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SKILLS
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Dream peak
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Shelf life
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The Ring of Steall, for memories of pure gold
Winter: what better time to curl up with a book?
Mountain Inquisition
10
Mountain Guide
13
A month of outdoorsy things to put in your diary
70
Spotting UK winter wildlife; how mountains are measured; long-lasting litter; scalds and burns; down vs synthetic PLUS the good and bad points of shock-absorbing poles; making the most of winter Munros; Welsh as it is spoke
YOUR TRAIL
Sophie Radcliffe, a cycling-obsessed Alpinist
High lights
ADVENTURES Below the snow
22
Galloway
32
Snowdonia
40
Locations less likely to get a full-on flurry of flakes
To south Scotland, for hills with a horrible history
A National Park that’s all ruggedness and charm
In Box
16
Rhinogs
48
The world of hillwalking, according to you lot
The astonishing feature that is Bryn Cader Faner
Out There
18
Howgills
54
Your top mountain moments, caught on camera
East of the M6 lies a range you really should visit
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Welcome to the side of Tenerife the tourists miss
Everest, courtesy of 1920s artist Edward Norton
WHERE THIS MONTH’S ISSUE WILL TAKE YOU White Laggan: ‘the perfect Scottish bothy’?
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‘IT’S THE KIND OF PLACE YOU CAN TURN OFF YOUR PHONE AND COMPLETELY VANISH FOR A FEW DAYS’
ONE REASON GALLOWAY APPEALS TO TRAIL
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Introducing MSR’s wind-beating stove.
GEAR GUIDE
ROUTES
Top-end 4-season boots 78 Footwear for proper winter conditions
Best for your budget
Cosy down jackets, presented by price tag
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1 2 3 4
Ice axes and crampons
86
Implements to help you stay safe on snowy going
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Kit for bothying
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Gear for those frequenting stone-built shelters
First Test
^ Peninsula: likely to see less snow. Wales’ Llyn
© GRAHAM BELL / ALAMY
p22
91
An MSR stove built to be at home on blustery hills
What’s in your rucksack? 93
7-9 10-12 CLASSIC ROUTE
Dunnerdale Shining Tor Mynydd Du Snowdon Glenmore Forest Glen Kendrum Skiddaw Forest Arrochar Alps Ring of Steall
101 103 105 107 109 111 113 117 122
Team Trail appraises its most-worn kit
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Adventure photographer Ben Winston reveals all
Used & Abused
CLASSIC ROUTE
Choose your route and go hillwalking!
Go: UK winter walking Do: hedge your snowy bets
BELOW
22 TRAIL JANUARY 2015
Winter above the Ullswater Valley, Lake District: not every winter walk needs to be white.
TOM BAILEY
THE SNOW Not a fan of ice-plastered summits? Here’s your guide to the British hills, valleys, islands and coastlines that (usually) avoid the white stuff. WORDS JEREMY ASHCROFT AND SIMON INGRAM
JANUARY 2015 TRAIL 23
BELOW THE SNOW
The weird sandstone cliffs at St Bees Head.
Capturing the drama of being close to the mountains without actually being in them, St Bees Head has additional resonance as a destination in that it is the classic termination point (or beginning) for Alfred Wainwright’s Coastto-Coast route. This is also the point where Lakeland falls to earth, in a series of dramatic red sandstone cliffs popular with climbers. Comprised of two prominent points – the north and south heads – a moor, a lighthouse and several hummocky hills, the head can be circumnavigated in a delightful little 9 mile walk from St Bees village, which you can combine – if the weather plays ball – with a few descents down the cliffs to the rocky shore.
© CRAIG EASTON / ALAMY
ST BEES HEAD, CUMBRIA
‘COASTAL LOCATIONS PROVIDE SOME OF THE
TORRIDON COASTAL PATH, NORTH-WEST SCOTLAND
TOM NAILEY
A stunning region of Scotland in all seasons, this frayed coastline – particularly the stretch between Upper Diabaig and Redpoint – allows amazing views of the often frozen Torridon mountains from a distance, before opening out at the secluded, amazingly tucked-away beach of Redpoint with views across to Skye and the hills of its Trotternish peninsula. The road between Diabaig and Torridon is usually gritted so access to the start of the walk should be possible – and there’s a well-appointed bothy halfway at Craig if an overnight stop is on the cards. In a place like this on short winter days, you’ll definitely be tempted.
28 TRAIL JANUARY 2015
The stunning Aber Falls make an adventurous destination in winter.
© PHILIP BIRD / ALAMY
ABER FALLS, SNOWDONIA
MOST RELIABLY SNOW-FREE DESTINATIONS’ Beinn Alligin, plastered with a thick winter coat, from the coastal trail near Craig.
Seeking other objectives besides summits is a smart way to give low-level walks a high level of achievement – and what could be better than a gushing (or even frozen, if you’re really lucky) waterfall in a secluded Snowdonian valley? Located in the northern Carneddau at the end of a mile-long path, the 120ft Aber Falls (Rhaeadr Fawr) dispense the water running off the high mountains of northern Snowdonia into a valley that has been occupied by humans for over 2000 years. The falls are elegant and grand: the place itself is atmospheric and is usually accessible year-round by a good track through beautiful countryside. Catch Aber Falls on a snow-silenced winter morning and you’ll feel like Indiana Jones.
5 TOP TIPS FOR DODGING THE SNOW
Head south
Latitude plays its part, and even across the modest distances of the UK the northern half of Scotland has noticeably lower average temperature than the south-west counties of England. This is no foolproof rule – Dartmoor and Exmoor have had some horrendous snowfalls – but statistically, heading south for the winter will stack the odds more in your favour than heading north.
Hit the coast
Coastal locations, with the warming influence of the sea nearby, provide some of the most reliably snow-free destinations, along with lower altitudes inland. Many mountains are within eyeshot of the sea – and typically the coast sees far less snow. So for a mountain experience without the mountains, pick a coast with good paths (or no cliffs) and take a wander.
Walk around a lake
Finding a nice loch or lake – provided it’s not frozen and snow-covered – to trot alongside is a good idea principally because navigation is likely to be a cinch. And theoretically, if you keep walking you’ll end up where you started...
Trek through a valley
As well as often being linear features themselves, valleys tend to have paths running through their lowest point. Avoid steep-sided valleys or high passes such as the Lairig Ghru, as these can often be prone to avalanches or can funnel weather through them. But valleys like Ennerdale and Langstrath in the Lake District are beautiful prospects when the mountains are white.
Go alternative
Don’t fancy a summit? Bag a tarn or a waterfall. Instead of linking ridges together, find valleys that do the same. And if all else fails, go artficial: climbing the ice wall at the Ice Factor at Kinlochleven, the Ratho climbing arena in Edinburgh, the Honister via ferrata, the Blaenau Ffestiniog slate mines and zip wires – there are plenty of mountain-shaped man-made attractions around if the weather really isn’t playing. Don’t knock ‘em till you try ’em!
JANUARY 2015 TRAIL 29
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Go: southern Scotland Do: the Galloway Hills
THE
HIGHLANDS OF THE LOWLANDS
High, wild, rocky and defned by a dark and bloody past, Trail discovers the remote hills of Galloway are a fascinating place to lose yourself for a few days. WORDS OLI REED PHOTOGRAPHS TOM BAILEY
32 TRAIL JANUARY 2015
Galloway’s Murder Hole (left) derives its name from the tale of 50 weary travellers who were allegedly robbed, killed and thrown into the pool many years ago – hence our speedy getaway.
JANUARY 2015 TRAIL 33
Go: north Wales Do: the best of a National Park
40 TRAIL JANUARY 2015
SNOWDONIA
BRITAIN’S MOUNTAIN PARKS
BBB
Llyn Llydaw and the Snowdon Miners’ Track backed by the shattered crags of Y Lliwedd.
JANUARY 2015 TRAIL 41
© ALAN NOVELLI / ALAMY
The angriest of the UK’s National Parks, Snowdonia’s rugged and beautiful charm makes it the playground of choice for lovers of the rough stuff...
Go: Rhinogs, north Wales Do: a hidden stone circle
LOST CROWN S N O W D O N I A’ S
Think you know the Rhinogs? You won’t believe you’ve missed this... WORDS SIMON INGRAM PHOTOGRAPHS TOM BAILEY
48 TRAIL JANUARY 2015
Bryn Cader Faner, standing alone and remote on the flanks of the Rhinogs.
I
f you learn anything from this, make it these two important lessons: (1) maps lie; and (2) the scratty fringes of mountain ranges hide secrets. Look at an OS sheet and your eyes are drawn up over the contours to the summits. You trace valleys and routes towards them, crave their height, feel compelled towards their emptiness. But important things on the fringes are missed, or hide within unfamiliar words in the shadow of bigger things. Take the Rhinogs. Rhinog Fach and Rhinog Fawr are the obvious gravitation points here, and they’re well-proven as knotty and rough playgrounds for summit-hunters. Ten you have the lesser-known but still familiar tops of Difwys, and the one with the funny, vaguely atheistic name: Moel Ysgyfarnogod. But not far from the latter, in a part of the Rhinogs range you probably wouldn’t go to fnd wonderful wildness, there is a trio of Welsh words that most won’t recognise or think anything of. �
asdasdasd
JANUARY 2015 TRAIL 49
Go: north-west England Do: a forgotten range
Climbing a rising ridge above the waterfall of Black Force, in the western folds of the Howgill Fells.
54 TRAIL JANUARY 2015
CUMBRIA Not a lot of people know about the Howgills. Even fewer folk walk there. Can you keep a secret? WORDS DAN ASPEL PHOTOGRAPHS TOM BAILEY
JANUARY 2015 TRAIL 55
Go: Canary Islands Do: Spain’s highest peak
TENERIFE’S
SLEEPING DRAGON Gorgeous scenery, massive tallest volcano in the world: WORDS & PHOTOGRAPHS BEN WEEKS
Sunrise at 3718m on the summit of a volcano. Now be honest – this isn’t the view you picture when you think of Tenerife, is it?
62 TRAIL JANUARY 2015
views and a smouldering ascent of the third welcome to Tenerife, adventurer-style.
I
f you thought Tenerife was all inebriated tourists staggering from bar to beach to bar with a straw donkey under one arm and football-shirtstencilled sunburn marks across their torso bellowing ‘Viva España’, welcome to the club. Turns out, though, we were wrong. Well, mostly. Tere are resorts that pride themselves on ofering a slice of distinctly British culture with better weather, but that’s but a tiny part of this Canarian island. A far bigger chunk is the ruddy great volcano that sticks out the middle of it. At 3718m tall, Mt Teide is Spain’s lofiest peak and the highest point above sea-level of all the Atlantic islands. And that’s not the whole story. Teide’s base lies some 3800m below sea-level on the Atlantic foor. Its total bottom-to-top measurement of some 7500 metres
makes it the third tallest volcano on the planet, with only the Hawaiian peaks of Mauna Kea and Mauna Loa besting it. When a 2-mile-high lump of rock sits in the middle of a 50-mile-wide island, it’s going to get noticed. Te earliest settlers on Tenerife – the Guanches – believed that Pico del Teide held up the sky. Maps from the 14th and 15th centuries refer to the island as Isla del Inferno in reference to Teide’s volcanic nature. And today its image is everywhere. Teide’s likeness is painted on café walls, printed on beer bottle labels and incorporated into the island’s coat of arms. And, for any climber of mountains, bagger of peaks or walker of hills, to see it is to want to stand on the top it. Te conversation with my brother had gone a little like this: “Do you fancy coming to Tenerife to climb a 3700m volcano which may or may not be active?”
JANUARY 2015 TRAIL 63
GUIDE
WHERE TO SPOT...
WINTER WILDLIFE
HIGHLANDS CRESTED TITS The pine forests of the Scottish Highlands are home to one of our most distinctive songbirds. In early winter crested tits will be busily gathering seeds, which they store for later when food supplies may be short. Feeding stations and woodlands are great places to see these jolly little birds frantically flying back and forth.
The UK’s mountains can be harsh and unforgiving in winter but they’re still home to a rich variety of wildlife, as RSPB wildlife expert Richard James explains… SCOTTISH ISLANDS GOLDEN EAGLE There are few sights in nature as spectacular as a golden eagle soaring above the mountains, especially as they’ve suffered serious declines in the past. They’ll be hunting for rabbits, hares, birds and even small deer, so watch along ridgelines and cliffs. Mull and Skye are great places to see them and their larger cousin the white-tailed eagle.
SNOWDONIA RAVENS Ravens are the UK’s largest crow species, and their distinctive ‘cronk’ call lets you know when they’re near. In flight, you can tell them apart from carrion crows and rooks thanks to their diamondshaped tail. Watch for birds returning to roost in trees as the sun starts to set – if you’re lucky enough to get a sunny winter’s day the sheen on their feathers is stunning.
BRECON BEACONS GOSHAWKS These secretive hawks make a rare public appearance in late winter. The male and female perform display flights above their woodland habitat, and the swoops and climbs are known as a ‘skydance’. These powerful birds are capable of hunting prey as big as a rabbit.
© CHRIS GOMERSALL / ALAMY
UNLESS STATED OTHERWISE, ALL WILDLIFE IMAGES WWW.RSPB-IMAGES.COM
MOUNTAIN
EXPERT ADVICE: PLAIN AND SIMPLE™
70 TRAIL JANUARY 2015
LAKE DISTRICT ROOSTING WATER BIRDS The Lake District is a haven for water birds, with the large expanses of water providing safe places to roost. Thousands of gulls, ducks, geese and swans spend the night floating on the lakes in winter, so watch just before sunset to see them zipping in to land.
DARTMOOR SALMON SPAWNING In winter salmon make their annual swim upstream to spawn – and the high reaches of Dartmoor’s rivers are great places to spot them. Leaping adults return to the river they were born in, and fight against torrents of water to reach spawning grounds. Early winter is the best time to witness this spectacle.
Graham Thompson
Rob Johnson MIC
Lyle Brotherton
Jeremy Ashcroft
GT has been Trail’s technical editor for over 20 years, and he’s our walking gear guru.
Rob is an international expedition leader and a highly qualifed mountain instructor.
Navigation expert Lyle is one of the world’s leading search and rescue authorities.
Trail mountaineering editor Jeremy has a lifetime of outdoors experience in the UK and abroad.
CAIRNGORMS PTARMIGAN
© JOHN GOODAY / ALAMY
The Cairngorms in winter is one of the most inhospitable yet beautiful places in the UK. Ptarmigan have adapted brilliantly to the snowy conditions, and in winter these grouse relatives moult into an all-white plumage, which helps keep them hidden from predators.
NORTH PENNINES RED GROUSE Red grouse spend most of their time hidden among heather on upland moorland and are well-camouflaged, but they will stick their heads up above the plants to keep an eye out for predators. Look among exposed rocks for birds trying to get a better vantage point, and listen for their fast clucking calls from within the heather.
YORKSHIRE DALES DIPPERS Dippers live by fastflowing rivers. They hunt for aquatic invertebrates and small fish by standing on exposed rocks then, as the name suggests, dipping in to the water to grab their prey. They leave telltale signs of their presence in the form of white droppings on the rocks.
© LES GIBBON / ALAMY
PEAK DISTRICT MOUNTAIN HARES This is the UK’s only native lagomorph (the group of animals that rabbits and hares belong to). They’re exclusively found more than 500 metres above sea-level and, like ptarmigan, they moult into a white winter coat to help them hide in the snow from predators. However, if there’s little snowfall then they become easy to spot against the brown moorland.
For more info on where to see great wildlife spectacles visit www.rspb.org.uk/reserves
JANUARY 2015 TRAIL 71
GEAR›
BEST WINTER BOOTS 78
BUYING KIT? THIS IS YOUR GUIDE...
HOT NEW KIT This month's spanking new objects of outdoor desire
ICEBREAKER HELIX HOOD £220 As the name suggests, the main constituent of the MerinoLOFT insulation as found in the Helix Hood jacket is merino wool. What’s more, 10 per cent of that wool comes from recycled offcuts from Icebreaker’s factory floor. Although its design is more lifestyle than technical, the Helix Hood is claimed to be Icebreaker's warmest layer ever and works well as an insulating mid layer under a shell. Unlike down, maintains its insulating properties even when wet. We say: It can’t match more heavy-duty jackets for sheer warmth in tough conditions, but as an extra layer in cool, if not freezing, environments it functions brilliantly. www.icebreaker.com
KATADYN GRAVITY CAMP 6L £90 Although not available until spring 2015, we’ve had a chance to get our hands on one of these in advance. The Gravity Camp is a 6 litre dry bag with a screw-in filter for treating water as it flows from the bag, and a transparent window for monitoring the contents. The newly developed filter can treat 2 litres per minute, reliably filtering bacteria, cysts and sediment to make water safe to drink. An optional shower attachment lets you wash in clean water too, although the lack of a ‘hot’ setting might make it a rather chilling experience. We say: For base camp sharing of safe, clean water, the Gravity Camp 6L is great for small groups. Need more capacity? A 10 litre Base Camp Pro will also be available. www.katadyn.com
76 TRAIL JANUARY 2015
KLEAN KANTEEN GROWLER 40oz £35 Rather than listing the things that this 1182ml steel bottle is not named after, let’s clarify the eyebrow-raising moniker immediately. In the USA, the home of Klean Kanteen, a ‘growler’ is a vessel for transporting carry-out beer. That and the flip-top pressure-maintaining lid gives an indication of its intended use, but it’s an excellent container for any liquids, be they lemonade, liquor or Lipton’s iced tea. We say: It’s been named after a brewery jug, comes equipped with a lid that keeps the contents fizzy and will hold exactly two pints of liquid. We guess you could use this for water, but… www.whitbyandco.co.uk
GEAR
CHOOSE THE RIGHT ICE AXE & CRAMPONS 86 DOWN JACKETS BY BUDGET 82
TESTS YOU CAN TRUST
KIT FOR BOTHYING
88
FIRST TEST: MSR STOVE
91
WHAT'S IN YOUR RUCKSACK?
93
TEAM TRAIL'S KIT RATED
94
WIN GREAT OUTDOOR GEAR
97
ALPKIT BRUKIT £35 Compact integrated cooking systems are hugely popular. With everything stored in one pot they’re easy to transport and, because it’s all designed to work together, they’re fast and efficient too. The BruKit ticks all these boxes with style and quality, but has one enormous difference over other similar stoves: a stunningly low price tag. It’s hard to see how Alpkit did it, but they have and they should be applauded for it. We say: With these features at this price (gas canister not included), the challenge will be getting your hands on a BruKit before they sell out. You’d be crazy not to want one. www.alpkit.com
SCRUBBA WASH BAG £40 Washing machines are heavy. On multi-day treks it’s easier to carry changes of clothes than a Hotpoint. But the Scrubba weighs just 145g and, thanks to its hundreds of ‘Scrubba nodules’ (an internal washboard of sorts) offers a quality clean in just 3 minutes – with a bit of elbow grease. We say: Overkill for a weekend wild camp, but its compact size and light weight make it a great idea for longer treks or extended camping trips. www.thescrubba.com
JANUARY 2015 TRAIL 77
TEST OF THE BEST Where top hill kit goes head to head
TESTER PROFILE Jeremy Ashcroft Trail mountaineering editor Foot size UK11/ Euro 46 Foot shape normal width, normal volume
4-SEASON BOOTS
PHOTOGRAPH TOM BAILEY
Winter boots must be able to withstand the harshest conditions Britain’s hills can throw at them, be stiff enough for crampons, yet be comfy enough for long days walking... ANKLE CUFF
MIDSOLE STIFFNESS
The ankle cuff helps prevent mud and grit from entering the boot. It also protects the ankle against being scraped on rocks. The stiffness in the cuff reduces the strain on the ankle when traversing slopes by adding extra support, which makes it less tiring and easier to get a stable foothold on snow slopes.
Grab the boot by the toe and heel, bend the toe towards the heel, then twist the toe while holding the heel stationary. The harder it is to bend the boot in these two directions, the better the boot will perform on snow and ice and be compatible with crampons. As a rule of thumb 4-season boots are among the most rigid footwear on the market, but depending on design there will be some degree of flex and roll.
CRAMPON COMPATIBILITY You can easily spend all day in crampons in winter, so it’s crucial that 4-season boots are able to accommodate them without impairing your walking action. Stiffer crampons rated at C2 are most appropriate, and all 4-season boots should meet at least this standard. Other more rigid designs may even be able to take C3-rated crampons.
78 TRAIL JANUARY 2015
GEAR
TEST OF THE BEST
BOOT CLASSIFICATION A boot can be rated as B0, B1, B2 or B3, and this relates to how stiff the sole is. Most boots in this test are rated as B2, with B0 and B1 being more flexible and B3 stiffer. B2 relates to semi-rigid boots designed for mountaineering and easiergraded winter or Alpine climbs. B3 indicates fully rigid boots suited to technical mountaineering and high-grade winter and Alpine climbs.
£210/1836g (size 11)
m n
Mammut Magic GTX
Salewa Raven Combi GTX
+ flex reduces performance on Ð softer challenging terrain
+ and support Ð more stitching on the upper
www.mammut.ch
price; light weight; comfort for walking
OUTSOLE LUGS Deep, widely spaced lugs will bite into snow and mud without clogging while also providing many years of wear before they’re too shallow to give a good grip on soft ground.
FEATURES
If you want your boots to last as long as possible look for uppers with minimal stitching and a full rubber rand. On a normal winter’s day walk you’re likely to encounter constant damp, rock, mud, scree and of course snow and ice. Design features that resist the action of these elements – like high cuffs, tough materials and resilient lacing – are all very important.
price; light weight; balanced flex
Highly wear-resistant and brightly coloured synthetic textile combined with 2mm PUcoated leather form the uppers. Full wraparound rubber rand. Padded one-piece tongue linked to a high ankle cuff with an elasticated extra cuff. Internally a high-cut Gore-Tex liner offers waterproof protection. The Vibram New Mulaz sole has moderate lugs and semiautomatic crampon fitting. B2 rated. 4/5
This boot comes in sizes 6½ to 13 for men, and 4 to 9 for women. It has a nicely snug mid-volume fit that holds both the ankle and arch without being too restrictive. The toe box profile is ideal for walking and general mountain duties, while the ankle cuff is at the softer end of what you would expect for a B2 boot. 4/5
Available in sizes 6 to 13 for men and 3 to 9 for women), this is a mid-volume boot, which is snug without being restrictive around the ankles and arch, but with a moderately roomy toe box. The nicely structured ankle cuff offers good support and the lacing system is very easy to adjust. 5/5
The slightly softer upper of this boot makes it instantly more comfortable than most here. But that comfort may not be so good when more support would be of benefit, as the sole and upper aren’t quite as supportive as others. In other words this is great for general mountain walking, but perhaps less comfortable on more challenging terrain. 4/5
A structured boot with a high ankle cuff and a well-padded upper that’s ideally suited to protecting your feet over very rough terrain. Good insulation and a high-cut waterproof liner make it warm and dry in tough winter conditions. Despite its high level of protection this boot doesn’t feel clumsy. 5/5
IN USE
The flex both longitudinally and laterally is softer than on some other boots, and the highly structured uppers allow a fair amount of movement. These features combined make for a lovely boot to walk in, but on more challenging terrain all the comfort adds up to a slight lack of sensitivity. 4/5
A very capable boot, well-suited to action above and below the snowline. Good longitudinal and lateral flex in the sole allows a nice rolling gait while walking, yet it’s stiff enough to deal with small holds on rock and kicking steps in snow. The closure around the tongue and elasticated cuff keeps snow and mud at bay. 5/5
VALUE
Fantastic value if you’re looking at a winter boot aimed at walking rather than tackling challenging terrain. 5/5
At £220, the Raven Combi GTX is a great price for a good all-round B2 boot. 5/5
A very comfortable boot best suited to walking rather than challenging terrain.
A tough and comfortable boot that will take on all mountain challenges.
FIT
DURABILITY
www.salewa.com
Highly stitched upper made from a mix of velours leather and Dropstop synthetic textile. One-piece padded tongue with a high padded ankle cuff. A full rubber rand affords protection around the edge while the sole is a deep-lugged Vibram Maton unit. Internally there is shaped ankle padding and a full-height Gore-Tex liner. Semi-automatic crampon fitting. 4/5
FIT
No boot is worth having if it does not fit, and the inside should be around 13-15mm longer than your foot, which you can gauge by putting the boot on without the laces tightened up and then placing your forefinger down the inside of the boot at the heel. Better outdoor stores will measure your feet. The upper should be snug and comfy across the foot.
m n
£220/1848g (size 11)
COMFORT
VERDICT
4.2/5
4.8/5
JANUARY 2015 TRAIL 79
THE BEST HILLWALKS WRITTEN BY EXPERTS
ROUTES WALK HERE THIS WEEKEND! p117
© ROD MCLEAN / ALAMY
Loch Lomond and the Arrochar Alps, seen from Ben Lomond.
WHERE TO WALK THIS MONTH... Welcome to Trail’s routes section: your cut-out-and-keep guide to the best days in the UK hills. Whether it’s an airy mountain scramble, a classic Lakeland fellwalk or a multi-day backpacking epic, you’ll fnd it here... written by experts, walked by you. EDITED BY DAN ASPEL (DAN.ASPEL@LFTO.COM)
CLASSIC ROUTE
RING OF STEALL 10 ULTIMATE WEEKEND 11 12 ARROCHAR ALPS
5
6
GLENMORE
GLEN KENDRUM
7 ULTIMATE WEEKEND 8 9 SKIDDAW 1 4
DUNNERDALE
SNOWDON 2
3
SHINING TOR
MYNYDD DU
Trail Routes 1-12 use OS mapping and gradient profles, and are available to download at lfto.com/routes
SNOWDONIA
10.9km/6¾ miles
ROUTE
4
WINTER CLIMB STRENUOUSNESS NAVIGATION TECHNICALITY WELSH 3000ers TRAIL 100 COUNT
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Walking near point 2, with the Horseshoe behind.
Snowdon Horseshoe
It’s an undisputed classic in normal conditions, but according to Tom Hutton the Snowdon Horseshoe’s even better in winter!
T
he Snowdon Horseshoe is just about as perfect as a mountain day can be. It starts with an easy scramble onto an airy summit (Crib Goch), continues along a daunting knife edge that looks worse than it really is, then slowly gains the summits of the highest two peaks in the land, with some super scenic walking in between them. The retreat down the south ridge maintains the slightly technical feel without ever throwing up too much difficulty, and the descending traverse into
Bwlch y Saethau feels exposed but safe. The whole thing is polished off with a delightful up and over of Y Lliwedd – a spectacular and much understated peak – before an easy exit via the Miners’ Track. Now add some snow and ice underfoot, some banked-up drifts that transform jumbled rocks into airy white walkways, and of course the sight of Wales’ highest peak in the grandeur of its full winter coat, and an already amazing outing just got better. Care is needed in winter conditions,
though; and an axe, crampons and the ability to use them are absolutely essential if snow and ice are about. Carefully picking a path along Crib Goch.
TOM BAILEY
ing An amazroved p route, im
BOOK EARLY TO AVOID
DISAPPOINTMENT!
HOLIDAY IDEAS
FROM LONG WEEKENDS IN EUROPE TO EPIC TREKS ACROSS THE GLOBE SHORT BREAKS
ESCAPE THE GRIND ON A LONG WEEKEND
SEVEN-DAY WONDERS
BIG ADVENTURES JUST A COUPLE OF HOURS AWAY
TRIPS OF A LIFETIME
START PLANNING FOR YOUR DREAM HOLIDAY
PLUS
DON’T FORGET THE GEAR ESSENTIALS YOU CAN’T LEAVE HOME WITHOUT
WELCOME
Jasper National Park in the Canadian Rockies
Welcome AS OUTDOORS lovers, we really lucked out with the UK. Our scenery is varied, beautiful and never too far away. So why bother with the check-in queues and awkward interrogations by the conveyor belt? It might have something to do with the thrill of the journey itself or perhaps the extra headspace which comes from being thousands of miles away from responsibility, but I’d wager that what most of us are looking for is something completely, wildly diferent. Our mountains – beautiful as they are – only go so high, our wilderness only stretches so far and the snow only comes in temperamental fts and bursts – usually in December when we’re totally unprepared for it, or in March when it melts before you can say snowman. Across the pond, across the equator and even across the Channel, there are landscapes with which we have nothing to compare. Think of the twisted spires of Patagonia, the green fash of the aurora borealis in Norwegian skies or the jungle-clad mountains of southeast Asia. Foreign landscapes are wider, taller, hotter, colder, more extreme versions of the outdoor world we already love. To see a world so diferent to our own is to fall in love with nature all over again. So if you’re planning on leaving the loveliness of the UK behind in 2015, let us help you fnd something a little bit special. It might be the experience of pulling on over-sized shoes and skipping over fresh snow, or it might be the challenge of climbing above 3,000 metres for the frst time and swinging an ice axe like you mean it. However big or small your adventure and however far you choose to travel, we hope you will fnd inspiration in these pages. Enjoy your trip! Rachel Broomhead Overseas Adventures Editor
Contents
ON THE COVER
Eiger Trail, Switzerland
04 NEW DESTINATIONS Discover the stunning new walking and trekking hotspots joining the scene this year
vichie81
09 SHORT BREAKS A whistle-stop tour of the spectacular places on your doorstep, perfect for a long weekend 13 SEVEN-DAY WONDERS Accessible destinations in Europe and North Africa for high-level day hikes or multi-day treks
WORDS RACHEL BROOMHEAD DESIGN TRACEY RADNALL
by Simon Ingram
PRODUCTION TIM UNWIN
You could even follow the Bear Trail! Turn to page 9... hbrizard
ADVERTISING HEATHER SMITH
16 TRIPS OF A LIFETIME Now’s the time to start organising a long haul holiday to one of the most amazing places on the planet 21 YOUR PHOTOS A selection of your pictures from exotic destinations around the world 22 GEAR The must-have equipment and gear for overseas explorers
Map key
EUROPE
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19 21 02
12 08 11 1820 04 17 10 03 16
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NEW 7 DESTINATIONS
SHORT 10 BREAKS
SEVEN-DAY 5 WONDERS
TRIPS OF 5 A LIFETIME
OVERSEAS ADVENTURES
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New Horizons Broaden your walking horizons with an adventure in one of these emerging destinations. Book now and you’ll have these unspoiled locations to yourself!
1
Azores
EXPLORE A REMOTE VOLCANIC PARADISE
Photonaj/Thinkstock
The Azores ofer excellent opportunities to walk in an archipelago which recently became the world’s frst destination to be awarded the Platinum ‘Quality Coast‘ Award. The volcanic landscape includes crater lakes and verdant tropical forests, exceptional territory for discovery on foot. Azores Island Hopping ofers walking through unique landscapes, rich in unusual geology, dormant volcanoes and hillsides full of fowers and vineyards. From £695 per person including seven nights B&B accommodation, airport transfers and transfers between accommodation, whale watching tour, and comprehensive route notes and information. ¦ www.macsadventure.com T: 0141 530 1950
Sao Miguel – the largest island in the Azores – has plenty of unforgettable views.
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OVERSEAS ADVENTURES
NEW DESTINATIONS
OVERSEAS ADVENTURES
5
Win your ultimate
CHRISTMAS
Every kit piece of 22 ext on the n ld be u pages co yours!
27 PRIZES over
£2,600 OF GEAR 1 WINNER! TURN OVE R TO FIND OUT HOW YOU CAN WIN THE LOT...
WIN! A LIFETIME OF OUTDOOR KIT
With so much outdoor gear available these days it’s tough to know what to buy, and even harder to find the cash you need to fill your ultimate adventure wardrobe. So this Christmas we’ve gathered together a huge selection of kit, packed it all into the next 20 pages, and we’re now ready to give it away to one lucky reader. That’s right, ONE PERSON will win every prize on offer! All you need to do to enter is answer the question below, at www.lfto.com/xmas
To be in with a chance of winning every prize in this competition, simply visit www.lfto.com/xmas and answer this question: On which Scottish island would you find the Old Man of Storr? 1 Rum 2 Skye 3 Mull TERMS AND CONDITIONS Closing date 29 December 2014. To see our terms and conditions please visit the website www.bauerlegal.co.uk/competition-terms.html
Merry Christmas!