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13 HILL ROUTES WEST HIGHLAND WAY BOWFELL & ESK PIKE CARNEDD LLEWELYN GLEN COE MUNROS
LIVE FOR THE OUTDOORS MARCH 2013
R
WITH FULL OS MAPPING
WWW.LIVEFORTHEOUTDOORS.COM
MARCH 2013 £3.99
LAKE DISTRICT HORSESHOE WALKS
7 INCREDIBLE ROUTES! 61 UNMISSABLE SUMMITS!
EVEREST
SNOWDONIA
You've NEVER seen it like this: p12
TRYFAN
Why Wales’ shark fin is SO special
PLUS...
THRILLS ’N’ CHILLS ON SCAFELL’S MOST INFAMOUS 100FT
IVE V
2PAG8EIST
DICT
Latest covers.indd 1
GEAR TESTS Insulated jackets, daysacks
NIT
ER
The one that secretly structures all its winter hill days around a really good pub
BROAD STAND
Ten 2000ft+ crackers – outside the Lakes!
DEFI
PACK SPARE PANTS...
ENGLAND’S SILENT GIANTS
THE
UK'S BEST SUMMIT VIEW SIGNAL FOR HELP AVOID AVALANCHES NAVIGATE WINTER HILLS
OF K
and winter sleeping bags
16/01/2013 14:41
CONTENTS OUT THERE SKILLS
Where this month’s issue will take you...
ADVENTURES
10
Trail Skills
Hands-on snowy action on a Welsh classic
Explore Everest...
12
Winter navigation (including bad visibility, bearings, compass quirks) and avalanche sense PLUS Q&A: muscle cramp, in-tent lighting, leapfrogging and not eating snow
Dream peak
14
Behind the picture
16
YOUR TRAIL
Ooh! The view!
Vote for your favourite in our panorama poll
...from your armchair, in astonishing detail The curved ramparts of Beinn Achaladair
Bill Tilman, an English explorer without equal
63
Out there
Tryfan in winter
20
Alternative giants
30
Lakeland horseshoes
44
Climbing the walls
54
Big English hills outside the Lake District The best way to enjoy scenery and peaks
4
Trail tackles Broad Stand, a ‘true obstacle’
Your best mountain moments, on camera
Trail talk
18
The world of hillwalking, according to you lot Subscribe and get a Silva headtorch!
Subscribe and save!
p30
28
Sign up for Trail, get a Silva headtorch (left)
Last gasp
146
A ridiculously spectacular photograph of a climber who’s quite literally on the edge
p20
Takes one to know one! Exploring English giants.
‘IF ANYTHING BEST SUMS UP A WINTER DAY ON A MOUNTAIN SUMMIT IT’S THE SILENCE’ TACKLING TRYFAN, MINUS THE TOURISTS
TOM BAILEY
p28
p54
SUBSCRIBE NOW! YOU’LL GET A SILVA NINOX HEADTORCH
Broad Stand in winter: not for wimps.
SEE PAGE 28
???
ROUTES
GEAR Gear news
76
Garmin Fenix
78
The must-have hill kit that’s coming soon
A hi-tech watch that’s a GPS receiver too
Insulated jackets
80
Warm on-the-hill wear with a synthetic filling
25-35 litre rucksacks
88
Winter sleeping bags
96
The ideal sacks for shorter mountain routes Six great cosy cocoons for camp kippage
p88 Eight of the best load lifters.
Yorkshire Dales
111
Peak District
113
Snowdonia
115
Snowdonia
117
Route 1 Ingleborough A gem best enjoyed as a walk in its own right
Route 2 Derwent Edge Less-travelled bog between ‘Edges’ beckons
Route 3 Tryfan’s south ridge A ‘thrilling but very doable ascent’ in snow
Route 4 Carnedd Llewelyn Visit a valley with the elegance of a Scots glen
Lake District
119
Isle of Mull
121
Route 5 Coniston Old Man A classic mountain needing no introduction
Route 6 Dun da Ghaoithe A circular route with spectacular sea views
Ambleside
Route 7 Loughrigg Fell Route 8 Wansfell Pike Route 9 Fairfield Horseshoe
125
Take a trip to the Lakeland town that has everything a hillwalker could wish for
Bridge of Orchy
131
Lake District
137
Route 10 Beinn Achaladair Route 11 Beinn Mhanach Route 12 West Highland Way Maybe take the train, base yourself here, tackle four Munros and a bit of the WHW
Route 13 Bowfell & Esk Pike Our Classic Route takes you on a classic traverse slap-bang in the centre of the Lakes that’s a feast of exploration and navigation
Classic Route
with 3D maps MARCH 2013 TRAIL 9
out there dream peak
Beinn Achaladair south highlands Linking arms with its four brother Munros, Beinn Achaladair (A-ka-la-dare, if you were wondering) stands among a clustered fortress of rock known as the ‘Great Wall of Rannoch’. It’s a fittingly grand title. This natural mountain breakwater marks the limits of the southern Highlands’ softer slopes and the start of Scotland’s taller, wilder, rougher peaks. Just as spectacularly, the Wall hides the expanses of Rannoch Moor from view until its vastness is upon you, making a ridgeline wander along the 1038m summit of Achaladair’s curved rampart a rare thrill. On a clear day, views extend from the dark forests of the lowlands to the nearby mountains of Glen Coe and the Black Mount. Whether you bag the entire circle of peaks – a full day, even by Scottish standards – or simply nab ‘the hill of the hard water’ (as the Gaelic translation goes) is up to you. Whatever your route, you’ll find something very special here on the shores of Loch Tulla.
do it this month! ›› turn to page 132
14 Trail march 2013
dream it, do it!
A snow-covered Beinn Achaladair range, seen from near Bridge of Orchy. Š Picade LLC / Alamy
march 2013 Trail 15
out there
A sublime summit
Bill Tilman lived an inspired life of travel, adventure and achievement. But perhaps his finest moment came on the summit of India’s tallest peak, as Trail reveals. Words Dan Aspel Photograph Noel Odell
n
anda Devi is a beautiful name. So beautiful that it’s tempting to leave it in its original Hindi, where the tongue-tripping shape it makes in the mouth can remain forever a mystery. But if curiosity proves too powerful, it can be translated in two ways: ‘bliss-giving Goddess’ or ‘beyond earthly imaginings’. However you refer to this 7816m twin-peaked massif of rock and snow, one thing is clear: it is a mountain of sublime experiences. It certainly was for English climbers Bill Tilman and Noel Odell in 1936. On reaching the summit in the golden glow of the afternoon’s light, they were overwhelmed by a powerful sense of serenity and joy. “After three-quarters of an hour on that superb summit,” Tilman would write, “a brief forty-five minutes into which was crowded the worth of many hours of glorious life, we dragged ourselves reluctantly away, taking with us a memory that can never fade and leaving behind ‘thoughts beyond the reaches of our souls’.” So moving was the experience that the two men expressed themselves with just a handshake. It was a brief glimpse of perfection. Like all first ascents, it had been hardwon, and Tilman’s eloquent, self-effacing recollections make gripping reading:
“Scenically the position of the bivouac was very fine,” he said of their camp high on the Indian peak, “but residentially it was damnable. It was backed on two sides by rock, but on the others the snow slope fell away steeply, and the platform which had been scraped out in the snow was so narrow that the outer edge of the tent overhung for almost a foot”. He casually adds: “necessity makes a man bold.” Nor does he attempt to disguise the unsentimental pains of life at high altitude. “It was bitterly cold…” he said of their summit bid. “What mugs we were to be fooling about on this infernal ridge at that hour of the morning! And what was the use of this ridiculous coil of rope, as stiff as a wire hawser, tying me for better or for worse to that dirty-looking ruffian in front!” The work was demanding – “like trying to climb cotton wool” – and every step demanded “six to eight breaths,” but as the spectacular roof of the mountain neared, “the demands of the climbing became more insistent, grievances seemed less real, and that life was still worth living was a proposition that might conceivably be entertained.” In climbing the tallest mountain in India Tilman and Odell (the latter had, in 1924, watched Mallory and Irvine disappear forever into the clouds on Everest) had remarkably reached the loftiest summit yet in human history. It brought the pair fame, but it was something Cheshire-born Tilman never sought. He was content to immerse himself in the world’s remote places and – in the words of biographer JRL Anderson – “contrived to live a life on a physical scale unmatched by anyone in this century”. This is no hyperbole: he was a ravenous explorer. Alongside collaborator Eric Shipton, he climbed across the world, from Kilimanjaro and Mt Kenya to lesser-known
“After three-quarters of an hour on that superb summit we dragged ourselves reluctantly away… taking with us a memory that can never fade and leaving behind ‘thoughts beyond the reaches of our souls’.” 16 Trail march 2013
and exotic mountains such as Gori Chen, Zaghouan, Rakaposhi, Paldor and Muztagh Ata. His brushes with officialdom and fame were considerable – he was both a decorated war hero and leader of the 1938 British Everest expedition – but were far from the focus of his life. His years were characterised by a benign independent streak: one that respected duty, but sought solitude and adventure outside of it. His style was always minimal, in the belief that “the simple life was a gateway to higher things” and it was said that “in his dealings with ordinary
behind the picture
ROYAL GEOGRAPHICAL SOCIETY
Bill Tilman on the summit of Nanda Devi in 1936. He is regarded as “the greatest individual explorer of the twentieth century”.
people there was a quality of real kindness and gentleness”. Fortunately for future generations, he was a prolific writer. His total stands at one book about Africa, six about the Himalayas and Asia, and seven about the oceans. The latter grouping grew from the final third of his life: purchasing discarded craft in the Mersey, he sailed them hundreds of thousands of miles to the globe’s far reaches. He visited Greenland and the Arctic islands on nine successive summers, and it was said that his crews “were carefully nursed through severe conditions without strain
or fuss”. It was on the ocean he ended his days, vanishing in the South Atlantic aged 80 in 1977. Tilman is credited with saying that, “Any worthwhile expedition can be planned on the back of an envelope.” It was a sentiment echoed by those who knew him best. Fellow mountaineer Peter Lloyd wrote of the explorer: “Simplicity was the characteristic of all his journeys. He crossed Africa on a bicycle. The equipment for his Himalayan travels was of the simplest. He preferred to dispense with such devices as wireless sets, crampons, oxygen…”
On Nanda Devi in 1936, he was at his very finest. “We started off as a group of 8 climbers including some more experienced and others more technically skilled…” wrote Lloyd. “As we approached the serious business of tackling the mountain and the need for a recognised leader became evident, Bill was so obviously the man for the job that the question resolved itself with perfect ease. He was indeed a great man.” T �� Further reading The Seven Mountain-Travel Books by HW Tilman, pb Diadem march 2013 Trail 17
Where? Snowdonia What? An icon, frozen Tryfan is the scrambling walker's playground extraordinaire. But is that still true in winter?
20 Trail march 2013
Tryfan under snow Been up this Welsh icon in summer but yet to tackle it in the chilly months? Let Trail show you the way to the top… Words Phoebe Smith Photographs Tom Bailey
S
now is an amazing substance, and it changes everything. It can make the dullest of landscapes into a picture-perfect winter wonderland – transforming lakes into panes of glass, dying shrubbery into sparking crystalline rime sculptures, and meagre hills into ‘proper’ mountains. Under a coating of snow even fairly innocuous grassy bumps can morph into much more serious prospects. But when you come to something as jagged and scrambly as Tryfan – which even in summer requires extra thought – it suddenly demands a whole lot more in the way of competence. Especially when this mountain is the closest thing to a vertical labyrinth you're likely to find... �
march 2013 Trail 21
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ALTERNATIVE GIANTS
STUFF THE LAKES!
© DAVID TAYLOR PHOTOGRAPHY/ALAMY
They may have the reputation for being a little dumpy, but many of England's hills over 2,000ft outside the Lake District National Park are well worth exploring. Here's 10 of the best... WINDY GYLE 619m/2,031ft NORTHUMBERLAND
Technically the summit of this Cheviot hill is in Scotland – though the OS map shows the border passing right through the trig point, suggesting the promise of arranging yourself on it in an almost limitless number of novelty poses. Sadly the reality is that Windy Gyle’s highest point is a few metres north of the rather lacklustre fence that separates England from Scotland. But as the choice approaches are from the English side, we're bending the rules (a bit) and putting it on this list. Stand on its summit and you’re six miles from a village and around three from a road, and it’s not hard to imagine the days of lonely violence and lawlessness between English and Scots in this place. At least one of these ended in murder on this very summit, symbolised by Russell’s Cairn, which marks the spot where Lord Francis Russell was slain and buried in 1585. These days it’s a lovely spot for a sandwich. Summit grid ref NT855152
38 TRAIL MARCH 2013
© DAVID FORSTER / ALAMY
© PHOTOLOCATE / ALAMY
BUCKDEN PIKE 702m/2,303ft NORTH YORKSHIRE
Reposing at the head of Wharfedale and offering superb views of the heart of the Dales, Buckden Pike summit is marked with a cross – rare for a UK hill – whose foundations are fortified with the remains of a Wellington bomber, which clipped a wall nearby and went down in a severe snow storm in 1942. There was one survivor – Joe Fusniak – who followed fox tracks to the safety of a farm, and decades later completed the cross. It’s a high-feeling, atmospheric place that is almost the loftiest thing around; Great Whernside (not the Whernside of Three Peaks fame, but a smaller one, despite its name), often linked to Buckden Pike by walkers, is a mere 2m higher.
MICKLE FELL 788m/2,585ft COUNTY DURHAM
Mickle Fell is situated in the same exciting area of the Pennines that includes the canyon of High Cup and the striking spire of the Nichol Chair. A few miles south of the Pennine Way in a conspicuously treeless area known as the Lune Forest, the bleak slopes of this quite prominent hill are enlivened by limestone escarpments, plus the access enemy of military firing ranges – watch out for those red flags! – and the aircraft wreckage that seems ubiquitous on these wild summits. Try linking the fell with a mammoth circuit from High Cup over Little Fell. Summit grid ref NY804243
Summit grid ref SD960787
MARCH 2013 TRAIL 39
❯
LAKE DISTRICT
7 TOP LAKELAND
HORSESHOES Classic valley 'rounds' are the quintessential walkers’ way to explore the hills – but which have the biggest wow factor? Try these for starters...
The stunning spectacle of the Fairfield Horseshoe from Rydal Head. You'll feel like God.
44 TRAIL MARCH 2013
A classic first walk for many, being as it is the closest to and best walk from Ambleside and Rydal with a stonking great big prize at the end of it: Fairfield, and the kaleidoscopic view from it. There’s also a bit of cultural interest: the leafy walk along the ‘coffin trail’ between Ambleside and Rydal is a marvellous way to warm up, and you also pass the door of Rydal Mount – Wordsworth’s former residence. This is the Lakeland horseshoe most faithful to the term, being almost symmetrical and beautifully formed. The long limbs of Heron Pike and High Pike mirror each other across Rydal Beck, and on a clear day if you position yourself at the head of the horseshoe above Rydal Head and stand with your arms outstretched, you will feel like God. ❯❯ DO IT! This walk is this month’s Route 9
START/FINISH
PHOTO: TOM BAILEY
Start/finish Ambleside Hoof nails Heron Pike, Great Rigg, Fairfield, Hart Crag, Dove Crag, High Pike, Low Pike Best tackled clockwise Trail rating
ORDNANCE SURVEY MAPPING © CROWN COPYRIGHT. CREATED WITH MEMORY-MAP. LICENCE MEDIA089/12 PHOTO: STEVEN FRANCIS/ALAMY
T
ake an alien (or even a green-gilled mate) on a hillwalk with the intention of impressing them, a horseshoe route would be the way to go. The generic name for anything that involves a circular ‘round’ of peaks, on a horseshoe you can see where you’re going and where you’ve been, and – with a courtesy uncommon in large pieces of mountain geology – they seem made for convenience as they usually start and finish in the same place. Is there a more civilised way to knock off multiple summits with comparable ease? None we know of. So here’s Trail’s run-down of the seven Lakeland horseshoes that pack in the most for their miles…
FAIRFIELD HORSESHOE 17km/10 miles
❯
MARCH 2013 TRAIL 45
broad stand
then came the reassuring schwink sound of an axe biting solidly into ice...
group test What you need to know To paraphrase Brad Pitt’s weird new perfume advert, an insulated layer is your confidence, your safety, your comfort: indispensable. When the temperature dips lower than expected, you get wet or you find yourself chilling down to uncomfortable levels during a snack stop, having something in your backpack that is robust, reasonably weather-resistant, easily stowed and with high thermal integrity to throw on (either on top of or beneath your waterproof) is a great asset. While the jackets featured here all do a similar job, they differ from down jackets in that they are filled with synthetic insulation – which doesn’t lose its thermal properties when it gets wet in the
same way feather-filled products do. The result is something warmer yet lighter than a fleece, and more weatherproof than a down jacket. They come in all shapes and sizes – smocks, jackets with hoods, jackets without hoods – and lots of different weights. They are also a particularly popular product to cross over into your non-mountain day-to-day life too – an increasingly important consideration when shelling out all that cash. Presuming you only have the budget for one versatile piece of kit, the jackets we’ve selected here are what we have deemed the most suited for general use in the British hills throughout the year.
features
What to look for Weather resistance These jackets are designed for insulation, so most of them will be water-resistant/-repellent and windproof – so okay for light mizzle or in snow – but not waterproof.
How Trail did the test Manufacturers were asked to send in insulated layers (jackets or smocks) designed to provide a synthetic warmth boost either as an over layer, mid layer or both. We received 20 products, which were whittled down to the best eight here. They were tested during December’s cold/wet snap.
Hood
Pockets
This will help conserve your body heat, but ideally you want one that’s well-fitting or adjustable. Check adjusters don't flap.
These are great for keeping your hands warm, so make sure they accommodate yours comfortably and that the zips are easy to open with gloves on. If you want to wear the jacket with a rucksack or harness, check you can still access the pockets while wearing these items. Space for a map is useful.
Draught exclusion Check that the wrists and hem fit snugly, otherwise draughts will get into the jacket. Elastic can work well, as can Velcro adjusters on the wrist or drawcords at the hem.
Fit A specific women’s or men’s jacket is likely to fit you better than a unisex version. When trying it on make sure it fits you well – lift your arms above your head and bend over to check it won’t ride up at the cuffs or waist; also look for an adjustable bottom hem to improve fit.
insulation The synthetic fill material should remain reasonably warm even when wet. It might be the manufacturer's own, or a third-party product such as Primaloft.
82 Trail march 2013
Front zip Look for a draught excluder behind or in front of the main zip to keep out cold air. A fleecy chinguard is also key for comfort as it stops the zip scratching you when done up.
insulated jackets Sprayway Reactor £90 This brand new jacket is a decent effort from Sprayway, and it hits a number of pleasing chords – the sweetest being in the wallet, as it’s half the cost of the priciest here. An adjustable hood with a stiffened peak and a massive pocket with room for an OS map (one of only two jackets here that do), which also serves as a packaway pouch, are touches with obvious appeal. Reflective decals on the chest and back are useful for winter road-walking, and Sprayway has really piled in the insulation, with areas of the body packed with up to 100g / square metre (gsm) of its InsoTherm polyester fill. Bulk doesn’t necessarily equal warmth any more, and pricier jackets may pack more efficient materials that deliver the same warmth with less fill – but this is
m n still among the warmest jackets here. It’s therefore excellent for rest stops but less so for activity, as the fabric isn’t the most breathable and you may cook. There are also a few finesse issues: sleeve length is stingy, which restricts reach, the hood cords are flappy, and its on-theheavy-side weight will warrant a moment of consideration to carry along ‘just in case’ – but overall this is a solid jacket at a great price.
Trail verdict
Too hot for heavy activity, but a great budget throw-over layer. ratings features design comfort performance value
✱✱✱✱ ✱✱✱ ✱✱✱ ✱✱✱✱ ✱✱✱✱✱
overall
✱✱✱✱
Montane Prism £100
MAGAZINE
BEST VALUE
Long a stalwart of good kit and prices, Montane’s Prism is another example of kit purpose-built for the UK. Insulation is Primaloft Eco, which – while not as soft or thick as Premium Primaloft One – uses 50 per cent recycled fibres. It’s still good, warm and adds a pleasing earthy tick, and a weather-resistant Pertex Microlight outer offers further value. Two high-set pockets take an OS map and also serve as a pack-pouch, while other features include Scotchguard reflective decals, an excellent hood with a wired peak and a chinguard, and a robust stormflap behind the zip. A few elements let the Prism slip: the cuffs are of the chafey elasticated variety, so they can be pushed up the arms to aid venting, but they are
MAGAZINE
BEST VALUE
m n aggressively elasticated (I found them too tight) and aren’t adjustable. The pocket zips have tabs to pull on, but the main zip tab is small and difficult to wrangle with gloves. Fit balances baggy and slim nicely, which means it works as either an over layer or a mid layer; but those tight sleeves are also quite short, which restricted my movement a little. But if this jacket fits and is comfortable, it offers unbeatable value.
Trail verdict
A purposeful, versatile jacket at an unbeatable price. ratings features design comfort performance value
✱✱✱✱✱ ✱✱✱✱ ✱✱✱ ✱✱✱✱ ✱✱✱✱✱
overall
✱✱✱✱
march 2013 Trail 83
GROUP TEST MAGAZINE
BERGHAUS Bioflex Light 35 £100
BEST IN TEST
The Bioflex Light 35 features a lighter version of the standard Bioflex system to allow improved freedom of movement via a rotating hipbelt. The back system also has an adjustable back length, which allows the shoulder straps to move up or down on a pair of alloy bars. I did find adjusting the back length a little messy compared to other designs, but once adjusted the extra movement in the hips is a real advantage, particularly for scrambling. The hipbelt is very wide, which makes this sack ideal for carrying heavier gear, such as a full load of overnight backpacking kit. To store that gear you get a single main compartment with a short snow-lock
MAGAZINE
BEST IN TEST
extension and a lid that provides good coverage of the main opening. The lid has a large external pocket that's ideal for maps or guidebooks. There are mesh wand pockets on the sides and a pair of compression straps, but these don’t get quick-release buckles. There’s a stretch stash pocket on the front and a bungee but no other external pocketing, which some may feel is too limiting. The main drawback of the Bioflex Light is that it is quite heavy at 1447g.
TRAIL VERDICT
A unique back system improves comfort and freedom of movement; but the drawback is the extra weight of the pack, which makes this best suited to use with full loads rather than lighter day trips.
RATINGS FEATURES DESIGN COMFORT PERFORMANCE VALUE
✱✱✱✱✱ ✱✱✱✱ ✱✱✱✱ ✱✱✱✱✱ ✱✱✱✱
OVERALL
✱✱✱✱
25-35 litre rucksacks comparison guide
MAGAZINE
BEST IN TEST
Your at-a-glance guide to the main features of each rucksack, and how the products stack up against each other.
MAGAZINE
BEST VALUE
Vango Trail 35 £28
CAPACITY WEIGHT INTERNAL COMPARTMENTS EXTERNAL ZIPPED POCKETS WAND POCKETS RAIN COVER BACK LENGTHS WOMEN'S BACK LENGTHS WEBSITE FEATURES DESIGN COMFORT PERFORMANCE VALUE OVERALL RATING
94 TRAIL MARCH 2013
35 litres 796g 1 1 no no one size no www.vango.co.uk ✱✱✱ ✱✱✱✱ ✱✱✱ ✱✱✱ ✱✱✱✱✱ ✱✱✱✱
Sprayway Octane 30 £50
Montane £80
Salewa Ascent 30 £85
32 litres 958g 1 1 yes no one size no www.montane.co.uk ✱✱✱✱✱ ✱✱✱✱ ✱✱✱✱ ✱✱✱✱ ✱✱✱✱ ✱✱✱✱
30 litres 1194g 2 2 yes yes one size no www.salewa.com ✱✱✱✱✱ ✱✱✱✱ ✱✱✱✱ ✱✱✱✱ ✱✱✱✱ ✱✱✱✱
MAGAZINE Medusa 32
BEST VALUE
30 litres 1054g 1 1 no yes one size no www.sprayway.com ✱✱✱✱ ✱✱✱✱ ✱✱✱✱ ✱✱✱ ✱✱✱✱✱ ✱✱✱✱
m n
MAGAZINE
BEST VALUE
25-35 LITRE RUCKSACKS CAMELBAK Highwire 25 £110 The CamelBak Highwire comes fitted with a 3 litre hydration system worth £30, so when this is taken into account you're effectively getting a rucksack for £80. The rucksack has a stiffened panel that allows the sack to sit close to the body and flex, but is stiff enough to resist items of gear bulging into your back. There’s a thin layer of mesh over this panel that provides comfort and allows airflow, and the combination works well. The hydration bladder is fitted into a dedicated zipped pocket behind this back panel, which can be accessed without having to enter the main
compartment of the sack. The main compartment has a zipped top opening. There's also an additional zipped pocket that is ideal for snacks, guidebooks or maps, although it is a notch smaller than some. Stretch material is used for the front stash pocket and the two side wand pockets. Compression straps are also provided so trekking poles can be easily attached to the sides, and there are bungee cords for ice axes or trekking poles. There are a lot of great sacks around £80 and if you use a hydration system this is an excellent option for all-round outdoor use.
TRAIL VERDICT
The Highwire is ideal for those who prefer hydration systems to water bottles, and at 1004g it's light enough for biking and fast hiking, but can also be used for general hillwalking. RATINGS FEATURES DESIGN COMFORT PERFORMANCE VALUE
✱✱✱✱ ✱✱✱✱ ✱✱✱✱ ✱✱✱✱ ✱✱✱
OVERALL
✱✱✱✱
MAGAZINE
BEST IN TEST
Osprey Talon 33 £85
Deuter ACT Trail 32 £90
Berghaus CamelBak Bioflex Light 35 MAGAZINE Highwire 25 £100 £110
33 litres 870g 1 1 yes no S/M and M/L no www.ospreypacks.com ✱✱✱✱✱ ✱✱✱✱ ✱✱✱✱ ✱✱✱✱ ✱✱✱✱ ✱✱✱✱
32 litres 1301g 1 2 yes yes one size yes (ACT Trail 28 SL) www.deutergb.co.uk ✱✱✱✱✱ ✱✱✱✱ ✱✱✱✱ ✱✱✱✱ ✱✱✱ ✱✱✱✱
35 litres 1447g 1 1 yes yes adjustable (men's) adjustable (women's) www.berghaus.com ✱✱✱✱✱ ✱✱✱✱ ✱✱✱✱ ✱✱✱✱✱ ✱✱✱✱ ✱✱✱✱
BEST IN TEST
25 litres (inc. hydration system) 1011g (inc. hydration system) 1 1 yes no one size no www.zyro.co.uk ✱✱✱✱ ✱✱✱✱ ✱✱✱✱ ✱✱✱✱ ✱✱✱ ✱✱✱✱
MAGAZINE
What the scores mean We’re all for transparency and consistency in our gear tests, so our scoring is done by a simple star grading system. The stars tot up to form an average star grade, to make the overall rating. POOR BELOW AVERAGE AVERAGE GOOD PERFORMANCE THE BEST IN ITS CLASS
✱ ✱✱ ✱✱✱ ✱✱✱✱ ✱✱✱✱✱
Next month’s featured gear
BEST IN TEST
Sleeping mats and trekking poles
Check it all out in next month’s Trail (April issue, on sale 20 February).
MARCH 2013 TRAIL 95
13 route lake district Lairg
Ullapool
Inverness Shiel Bridge
classic route Aviemore
nverie Invergarry
Aberdeen
Braemar
rt William Oban
facts
Edinburgh
cross-shelter cross shelter
STRENUOUSNESS ■■■■■ Berwick-upon-Tweed NAVIGATION ■ ■ ■ ■ ■ Ayr Jedburgh■ ■ ■ ■ ■ TECHNICALITY
SLE ARRAN
7 Esk Hause
Tongue Head
6
ntrae
Dumfries
Newton Stewart Stranraer
Newcastle -upon-Tyne
Carlisle Keswick
Penrith
Northallerton Esk Pike
Ingleton Bentham
8
Rossett Ros Crag s et t Gill
Hanging Knotts
5
Leeds Liverpool Rhyl
Manchester Conway Distance 13.5km
M Sheffield
Bodelwyddan (8¾ miles) Betws-y-Coed TotalLlangollen ascent 1005m
Time 6 hours
Derby
Bowfell
Barmouth Aberystwyth
digan
Pembroke
Bodmin
Start/finish Langdale, Birmingham NY285060
Nearest town Hay-on-Wye Ambleside Brecon
Jet trails over Esk Pike.
footbridge
Ore Gap
York
Skipton
Rossett Pike
Angle Tarn
Middlesbrough
Windermere Kendal
Lancaster
© Stewart Smith / Alamy
Glasgow
Peterborough
Bowfell Links
Accommodation Elterwater Youth Hostel 0845 371 9017; Patterdale Youth Hostel 0845 371 9337; National Trust Campsite Langdale (tents, yurts and pods) (01539) 463862, www. nationaltrust.org.uk Public transport trains to Windermere with buses to Langdale via Ambleside: Traveline (buses) 0871 200 2233; National Rail Enquiries 08457 484950 Guidebooks Pictorial Guide to the Southern Fells by A Wainwright, pb Frances Lincoln Tourist info Ambleside (015394) 32582, www.golakes.co.uk
138 Trail march 2013
NY285060 There is a large car park beside the Old Dungeon Ghyll Hotel, but Langdale is a popular valley and it soon fills up. Further parking exists down the valley at the National Trust car park by the Stickle Barn. Alternatively a regular bus service from Ambleside runs to the start. From the car park turn right onto the valley road and follow it a short distance to the Stool End access track, which is then followed to the farm. Head through the yard and join the path on the other side, which leads to the foot of The Band.
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NY275056 The Band for some reason gets a bit of bad press as a sweaty slog, but considering the major height gain it makes, it is actually a well-graded ascent route. The secret is to maintain a moderate pace and enjoy the views rather than trying to rush it. The Band is Bowfell’s eastern ridge, and it merges with the main mass at a craggy shoulder. The path follows the crest to the shoulder then swings west, avoiding
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Three Tarns
Gloucester
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Terrain valley lane, farmOxford the mountains access track, well-graded Swansea ridge path, col, Cardiff broad Bristol Bowfell scree path and rake, 902m/2,959ft craggy summit, rocky Minehead ridge, narrow cols, broad Southampton Esk Pike Brighton double col, packhorsePoole 885m/2,904ft Exeter track, cirque tarn, narrow ghyll, pitched bridleway, Plymouth valley track Maps OS Landranger (1:50,000) 90; OS Explorer (1:25,000) OL5; Harvey Superwalker (1:50,000) Lakeland Central; British Mountain Maps (1:40,000) Lake District
Hard Crags Bowfell Buttress Cambridge Crags Great Flat 4 Slab Crags
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Old OldDung Dun H
White Stones Buscoe T H E
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Stool End
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E A L N D E O X
the crags, in a traverse to the easier ground at the col of Three Tarns. NY248060 From Three Tarns dramatic views open up into the remote and lonely upper reaches of Eskdale. Across Lingcove Beck and Great Moss the distinct notched profile of Scafell and Scafell Pike fills the horizon. On the north side of the Three Tarns col the gully-cut crags of Bowfell Links provide an interesting distraction close at hand. Among these crags are a few challenging scrambles, and in winter the gullies and buttresses give good winter climbs. Three Tarns is where Bowfell first shows its real mountain teeth. In benign conditions the onward path climbs clearly to the north, exploiting a weakness between crags; but in mist or snow you need your wits about you to find the right line. Climb the scree path and then the open ramp, which leads north-west onto the castellated summit rocks.
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NY244064 It’s famine or feast with Bowfell’s
summit: in summer sunshine its rocks are a glorious place to bask and take in the world, but in the cold or damp it can be dour. If you are lucky enough to be there when it’s clear but cold resist the temptation to scarper; instead throw on another layer because from its lofty perch you get unsurpassed views of Langdale, Langstrath and Eskdale. To
continue, head north from the summit and pick your way down the main ridge to reach the high col at Ore Gap. NY240071 The distinct red hue of the rocks at Ore Gap is derived from the mineral haematite, found in a vein that crosses the col. If bad weather catches you or you want � to cut the walk short,
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N L A
© Stewart Smith / Alamy
tom bailey
always take a map out with you on the hill
START/ FINISH
ngeon Gill geon Ghyll Hotel
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Head up Bowfell for unsurpassed views.
e ik sk E
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B L E National Trust D A Campsite G N
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Bowfell Bowfell Buttress Cambridge Crag
Crinkle Crags
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The Langdale Pikes at dawn in winter, from The Band.
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5 Great Slab Flat Crags
crossshelter
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Angle Tarn
© Stewart Smith / Alamy
os se ttt G il
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MILES KILOMETRES
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Langdale via Mickleden (& footbridge)
Langdale
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1400 1200 METRES 1000 ABOVE 800 SEA 600 LEVEL 400 200
Langstrath
Buck Pike
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GRADIENT PROFILE
RossettAngle Pike Tarn
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Hanging Knotts
Hell Gill & Whorneyside Force
The
Esk Hause
Ore Gap
Three Tarns
Shelter Crags
ag Cr d oa ag Br l Cr Il
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The Great Slab with Langdale in the distance (seen from just beyond point 4).
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Rossett Gill
Langdale
Mickleden
Ore Gap
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march 2013 Trail 139
snowdonia
route
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15.4km/9½ miles STRENUOUSNESS NAVIGATION TECHNICALITY Welsh 3000ers TRAIL 100 COUNT
Carnedd Llewelyn
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On the summit plateau of Carnedd Llewelyn (point 4).
tom hutton
Summit t wo We lsh 3000ers
With the elegance of a Scottish glen and with Snowdonia’s third highest peak at its head, Cwm Eigiau is a true gem of a valley. Tom Hutton leads on.
T
and east are equally as he Carneddau are impressive and yet see far the gentle giants fewer footsteps. of Snowdonia’s Cwm Eigiau is the high peaks, with rounded best of these. It’s long summits and whaleback and steep-sided and in ridges that contrast places feels more like sharply with the boulderScotland than Wales. This strewn Glyderau and walk explores the valley the jagged tops of the by first wandering deep Snowdon range further into its heart, where the south. But step for step, atmospheric remains of they contain much more slate quarries add interest, land above the 3,000ft and then by taking a steep contour line than the other and scrambly path up onto ranges and are therefore the ridges that confine it. considerably more Carnedd Llewelyn is the challenging than they may high point, but the walk’s first appear. Looking to Carnedd Llewelyn, Yr Elen and Cwm Caseg from Foel Grach (point 5). more about new places The head of the range is approached from the west or south, and new perspectives than plain peak Carnedd Llewelyn: a massive rock-topped bagging, so even the final descent has monolith propped up by ridges that radiate where the A5 provides easy entry to some � lovely valleys. But the cwms to the north plenty to offer. away in all directions. It’s most commonly march 2013 Trail 117
MULL
Oban
JURA ISLAY
4
Glasgow
ISLE OF ARRAN
snowdonia
Edinburgh
route
Berwick-upon-Tweed
Ayr
Jedburgh
Ballantrae
Dumfries
Newton Stewart Stranraer
Penrith
Windermere Kendal
Middlesbrough
Northallerton SH732663 Climb the stile at the top of the car parkYork and continue Lancaster Skipton along Leeds the well-surfaced track for over 2km to the Liverpool Manchester austere-looking walls of Llyn Rhyl Conway Eigiau’s dam. Bear left, still Sheffield Bodelwyddan on the track, to flank them, Betws-y-Coed and cross the reservoir Llangollen outflow Derby before arriving at a Barmouth fork. Take the lower track Aberystwyth here and follow itPeterborough around Birmingham the hillside to a gate. Turn Hay-on-Wye Cardigan right, over a stile, leaving the Distance 15.4km Brecon Gloucester main track, and follow the (9½ miles) faint wet path along the lake Oxford Total ascent 830m Pembroke shores until it ‘tees’ back Swansea Time 6-7 hours into the main track. Bear Cardiff Bristol Start/finish Cwm Eigiau, right and follow this down SH732663 Minehead to a bridge that spans the Afon Eigiau. Nearest town Llanwrst Southampton
facts
continue along the track to the spooky quarry ruins.
1
Ingleton Bentham
Terrain rough tracks Exeter and faint paths over high Bodmin mountain tops; some Plymouth trackless sections across grassy hillsides; two steep, scrambly sections; navigation would be difficult in poor visibility Ordnance Survey mapping © Crown copyright. Created with Memory-Map. Licence MEDIA089/12
always take a map out with you on the hill
Newcastle -upon-Tyne
Carlisle Keswick
Belfast
15.4km/9½ miles
Maps OS Landranger (1:50,000) 115; OS Explorer (1:25,000) OL17; Harvey Superwalker (1:25,000) Snowdonia North; British Mountain Maps (1:40,000) Snowdonia
A snowy Carnedd Llewelyn, seen from Pen yr Helgi Du.
SH702636 To continue, keep straight ahead and cross the Afon Eigiau on a quarry track that leads to spoil heaps on the opposite hillside. Upon reaching the spoil heaps, bear right to pick up a faint path that continues up the west bank of the stream. Follow this uphill towards the foot of the crags and aim for the lowest point on the left-hand side where you’ll pick up a clearer path that cuts back sharp left. Now follow the steep and scrambly path all the way up into Bwlch Eryl Farchog. Bear right to walk along the narrow ridge, enjoying easy scrambling on the step that leads onto the summit of Craig yr Isfa. Now continue easily onto the top of Carnedd Llewelyn.
3
Brighton
Poole
Stay 2 SH718640 on the main path and continue up the grassy shoulder, passing impressive inclines that once belonged to the quarries, and a remote cottage. Continue into Cwm Eigiau, where you’ll get a good view of the impressive Craig yr Ysfa at the head of the valley. The path that leads to the summits actually cuts back on the left-hand side of the crag. To get there,
SH683643 A cairn and a couple of shelters mark the 1064m/3,491ft summit. Bear right (northeast) from here to locate a clear path that heads down over rocky ground into a
4
shallow col and then up easily again to the 976m summit of Foel Grach.
5
south-east, and cross a grassy plateau to join the top of a grassy spur. Drop down this and you’ll pick up a faint path that can be seen dissecting the ridge of Cefn Tal-y-Llyn Eigiau. Now follow this easily for over 2km, until you pass a small pond and some rocky outcrops to your right. Just beyond these, you’ll meet a fence, which you should keep to your right, and it will handrail you to a wall. Now follow the wall easily north-east and join a good track that rises up from Melynllyn Reservoir. Now follow this track over a couple of stiles and around to the right where it drops back down to the car park.
SH688658 Leave this summit to the
Accommodation Youth Hostel at Rowen 0845 371 9038; camping and B&Bs at Betws-y-Coed Public transport trains to Betws-y-Coed; Virgin trains serve Llandudno Junction regularly 08457 484950, www.travelinecymru.info
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5
Guidebooks Day Walks in Snowdonia by Tom Hutton, pb Vertebrate Graphics Tourist info Betws-yCoed (01690) 710426
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In association with
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To get this route and maps on your phone now, go to www.viewranger.com/trail Route code TRL0350 GRADIENT PROFILE
Start
1400 1200 METRES 1000 ABOVE 800 SEA 600 LEVEL 400 200 MILES KILOMETRES
Carnedd Llewelyn
1 0 0
118 Trail march 2013
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3
4
2 2
6
Finish
5 6
4 4
Foel Grach
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last gasp
Ridiculously spectacular
image of the month
Half Dome Yosemite, USA
Jimmy Chin/National Geographic
Free climber Alex Honnold has a ‘moment’ midway through his free solo ascent of the 3,000ft north-west face of Half Dome, El Capitan in 2011. No ropes, no parachute – just skill. And sheer balls. That’ s all well and good, but what would he make of Crib Goch in the rain? Hm?
146 Trail march 2013