Trail magazine - Spring 2015 by Trail magazine

13 mountain routes you have to walk this spring

LIVE FOR THE OUTDOORS

The UK’s best-selling hillwalking magazine

LIVEFORTHEOUTDOORS.COM SPRING 2015 £3.99

SPRING 2015

3 PEAKS

CHALLENGE The skills, routes and gear you need for...

SNOWDON SCAFELL PIKE BEN NEVIS the one that embraced the dark side and boldly went where no spider has gone before

8 PAGE FOLD-OUT GUIDE!

S E G A P 0 2 KofIjaT OatF ckets erpro

●W budget for every s on test le o p g in k ● Trek

WALKING THE SPIDER

Tackle a NEW Lakeland epic!

THE TWILIGHT ZONE Stunning sunsets & silent summits – guaranteed

CONTENTS

TOM BAILEY

ANDY KIRKPATRICK

YOUR 18-PAGE GUIDE TO THE NATIONAL THREE PEAKS CHALLENGE BEGINS ON PAGE 56

p24

Park and stride: how a motorhome can deliver you to the heart of the hills.

p68

Andy Kirkpatrick (seen here with the BBC’s Alex Jones): not one of life’s 9-to-5ers.

BASECAMP

SKILLS

Climb... Carrauntoohil

To Kerry, where Ireland’s highest mountain awaits

Stay out all night!

Wild camping: the very essence of the hills

The UK’s ultimate route 10

Mountain Guide

ADVENTURES 74

Understand your map; get ﬁt for the 3 Peaks; pimp your poles; why cotton’s not on; PLUS are avalanche airbags useful for walkers?; the skills needed for ‘compleating’ the Munros; do I need GLONASS on my hand-held satnav?

High lights

A month of outdoorsy doings to bob in your diary

p34

TWO VANGO GIFTS!

The Spider

Introducing a unique new way to cross the Lakes

Camping in sub-zero Scotland: why would you?

YOUR TRAIL

Trail cross-questions ﬁlm-maker Terry Abraham

Wake up with mountains outside your window

Stac Pollaidh in winter 40

Vote today for your favourite mountain walk!

Mountain Inquisition

Slioch – by motorhome

In Box

The Twilight Zone 20

Enter the weird world of a people-free Crib Goch

The world of hillwalking, according to you lot

A day in the life of...

Out There

...the YHA’s ever-popular Pen-y-Pass hostel

Your top mountain moments, caught on camera

Behind the picture

Subscribe to Trail

The gent who established the Pennine Way

...and you’ll receive a Vango rucksack and mug!

National Three Peaks

54 56

Charity challengers and others: please read this!

Andy Kirkpatrick

Trail chats with the ‘climber/author/comedian’

WHERE THIS MONTH’S ISSUE WILL TAKE YOU

‘WE CLIMBED INTO AN EVENING THAT GREW CALMER AND QUIETER AROUND US’ FINDING SOLITUDE IN THE TWILIGHT ZONE p44 Trail practises scrambling moves on a pleasingly crowd-free Crib Goch. BEN WINSTON

GEAR GUIDE Trekking poles

ROUTES 82

The eight best pointy-ended perambulation aids

Waterproof jackets

Rain-repelling tops to suit a wide range of budgets

Duffel bags

10-12

Glaramara Malham Cove Llech-Ddu Spur Waun Fach Beinn an Lochain Ben Cruachan Dartmoor Forest Kerry’s ridges

105 107 109 111 113 115 118 125

CLASSIC ROUTE

Brecon Beacons

130

1 2 3 4

Capacious kit carriers: which suits your needs?

Kit me out for the 3 Peaks 92

The gear you’ll need for THAT national challenge

7-9

First Test

A lightweight tent from Netherlands brand Nigor

What’s in your rucksack? 97

1 2

3 10-12

CLASSIC ROUTE

Top guide Paddy Cave lets us have a rummage

Used & Abused

Team Trail appraises its most-worn gear

Choose your route and go hillwalking!

7-9

BASE CAMP The Lake District, but not as you know it. Wild camping on Raven Crag at twilight, overlooking the 6km reservoir of Thirlmere.

DO IT THIS MONTH

SLEEP UNDER THE STARS Tell the people you work with that you’re planning to spend your Friday night camping on top of a mountain, and they’ll look at you like you’re insane; but show them the photos on Monday morning and they’ll treat you like a hero. Even if you aren’t someone who enjoys the clutter and chaos of campsites, nothing beats the experience of waking up somewhere truly wild, at a time of day when you’ve no real business being there. Tere are downsides, of course. Firstly you’ll need to haul a heavy rucksack full of gear into the hills, then you’ll spend a good portion of your evening hunting for something resembling fat ground to camp on. Even on a good night you’ll probably be woken at various intervals by anything from a stif

8 TRAIL SPRING 2015

neck to animals invading your sleeping quarters; and there’s a very good chance you’ll get wet – even if it isn’t raining. But when you crawl out of your sleeping bag at frst light, unzip your tent door and gaze down on the world below, you’ll wonder why you haven’t been doing it your whole life. You’ll watch the sun slowly sneak above the horizon, casting long shadows and vivid explosions of colour across a deserted landscape; and you’ll feel the day’s frst ficker of warmth wash over you as the chill of the previous night lifs from the valleys. But the overwhelming memory you’ll come away with is one of absolute silence. Te kind of silence only waking up miles from anywhere and anyone can create. Be careful, though; it’s very addictive.

SPRING 2015 TRAIL 9

BASE CAMP VOTE FOR

THE UK’S ULTIMATE MOUNTAIN ROUTE!

Trail has compiled a defnitive list of the fnest single days you can have in the British hills. The question is… which one is the best?

hichever way you look at it, we’re spoiled for mountain ANATOMY OF A GREAT landscapes here in the MOUNTAIN DAY UK. England’s uplands 10% ascent 4% lunch!! extend from the vast granite cap of 3% reascent 13% descent Dartmoor to the dramatic Edges of 5% drizzle 2% map and 5% clag compass work the Peak District to the limestone 7% sudden inspiring 5% scrambling terrain views 3% navigational outcrops of the Yorkshire Dales and 2% squally showers errors on to the dense and glorious fells of 5% summit fever 5% sweat 6% rain 3% silence the Lake District. Wales is a defnitively 4% snack stops 2% beer thirst mountainous country, with peaks of all 1% hail 2% exposure 11% gusts 2% altitude shades rising from the Brecon Beacons to the sharp peaks of Snowdonia. Te Scottish Highlands and islands positively bristle with wild and mysterious hills and spires that would take a lifetime to explore in their entirety. We’ve even got secretive, seldom visited and deceptively spectacular hills across the Irish Sea too, courtesy of the Mournes in County Down. Which leaves the British hillwalker with a conundrum: how to ft so many adventures into a fnite number of hill trips per year. Wouldn’t it be handy if those key days – the ones that capture a mountain’s character perfectly or reveal the true nature of a range – were arranged into one handy Top 25 list and published in the UK’s best-selling hillwalking magazine? We think so too. Tat’s why we’re giving you the chance to vote for the best day walks in our mountains. Simply make your selection from the 50 classics we’ve thrashed out in the Trail ofces and we’ll do the rest. Once the votes are in we’ll publish the list, revealing to you the full Top 25 with key information about each one. Which one will take the coveted top spot in the poll? We can’t wait to fnd out either… vote now! Rob above his favourite walking spot of Cwm Idwal No wonder he’s smiling!

www.lfto.com/25bestroutes

123,810 10 TRAIL SPRING 2015

The number of signatures currently land in the Lake District and Yorkshire of by the Government. To add your

Scrambling on Great Gable, and looking down to Wasdale.

HAPPENINGS FROM HIGH PLACES Graham Thompson Trail tech editor, picks...

Great Gable traverse … including threading Napes Needle and scrambling up to the top of Great Gable. If you do it at the right time of day you don’t see anyone and you can make it as hard or as easy as you like (relatively speaking – you are on the side of a mountain!). When you f nally scamper up to the top, you emerge onto the summit with everyone else who’s walked up the less interesting way. And from there you get one of the best views in Britain over to the Scafells and across to Wast Water. What more do you want?!

THE TOP 10... OS EXPLORER MAPS These are the best-selling 1:25,000 Ordnance Survey maps of 2014. Is your favourite walking area here? 1

OL17 Snowdon

OL7

OL24 The Peak District: White Peak

OL6

OL1

The Peak District: Dark Peak

OL4

The Lake District: north-western

OL2

Yorkshire Dales: southern & western

Jeremy Ashcroft

Trail mountaineering editor, loves...

OL15 Purbeck & South Dorset

OL5

Braeriach via Angel’s Peak This is a long day, but a doable one. You start in the Sugarbowl car park and head up the Lairig Ghru via the Chalamain Gap. From there you’re up the north-east ridge of Angel’s Peak (a dead simple Grade 1 scramble that’s good in both summer and winter) and then round the corrie, over Braeriach and down by Sron na Lairige. The beauty of this route is Garbh Choire; it’s one of the few places I’ve ever experienced total silence. No sound of anything at all, which is actually quite rare. The area in general remains pretty untouched, there’s not even any sign of ancient agriculture and the whole arctic plateau is pristine. There’s an other-worldly feel to it. You really do feel like you’re in the Arctic.

The English Lakes: south-eastern The English Lakes: south-western

The Lake District: north-eastern

10 OL22 New Forest North Wales, anyone?

Record breaker!

Ecuadorian-Swiss mountain guide Karl Egloff has smashed the record for a speed ascent of Aconcagua Ð the highest peak in South America at 6962m Ð by running a 25 mile route up and down the mountain in 11 hours 52 minutes. EgloffÕs time was almost an hour quicker than the benchmark set by Kilian Jornet less than two months earlier.

Rob Johnson Mountain guide, chooses...

TOM BAILEY

Cwm Idwal circuit My favourite day walk isn’t a long and demanding one, and it doesn’t involve any technical climbing: it’s a circuit of Cwm Idwal with my wife and kids! I love the natural mountain architecture of the area, the stream and the beach at the end of the llyn, hopping from rock to rock by the water’s edge and the views of the Idwal Slabs and the soaring Devil’s Kitchen, which rises up onto the Glyders with r.avens wheeling above. All of this, and it’s still so accessible with a great cup of tea at the end!

on an online petition attempting to stop large sections of Dales National Parks (including Stickle Tarn) being sold name to the petition, visit tinyurl.com/parksale

Where’s Oli?

Every month we take pleasure in sending TrailÕs grumpiest staffer all over the UK in the name of locational speculation. This time OliÕs in the Peak District (with his sis); but can you name the summit theyÕre showing off on? Answer on page 14.

SPRING 2015 TRAIL 11

Go: the Highlands Do: a road trip with a twist

The great mountain ranges of Scotland can often feel frustratingly inaccessible, but waking up with them on your doorstep is easier than you might thinkâ&#x20AC;Ś

ON A ROAD WORDS OLI REED PHOTOGRAPHS TOM BAILEY

Settling down for the night beneath the shadowy outline of Slioch...

24 TRAIL SPRING 2015

TO NOWHERE T ...then bagging its 981m summit in blazing sunshine the following day.

he problem with north-west Scotland – unless you live up that way, of course – is that it’s a very long way from everywhere, and it takes a hell of a long time to get there. And when we say north-west Scotland we aren’t talking about Loch Lomond or Glen Coe or Ben Nevis; we’re talking about real wilderness – the kind of place you have to f ll up your tank two or three times to reach. Keep motoring north on the A82, leaving behind the grey roofops of Fort William and the action-packed slopes of Britain’s highest mountain, and you’ll unlock landscapes you can scarcely believe exist. Te glens get longer, quieter and wilder; the mountains get more remote, more bulky and more statuesque; the skylines are dominated by the soaring outlines and piercing calls of eagles; the hillsides reverberate with the roar of red deer; and the telltale signs of modern civilisation diminish with every passing mile. You’ll encounter the odd lonely inn, whitewashed school or dusty petrol station along the way, but mostly it’ll just be you and that immense scenery. And it’ll make you realise that for all the photographs you’ve drooled over and guidebooks you’ve thumbed through, you � don’t really know the Scottish Highlands at all.

SPRING 2015 TRAIL 25

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Go: Lake District Do: a unique crossing

ADVENTURE ON THE

WORDS AND PHOTOGRAPHS TIM MAJOR Great Gable and Green Gable, separated by the col of Windy Gap, make an obvious target.

et’s face it: most people are sheep. Not literally, of course. Just in the way they approach outdoor adventures and, especially, walking challenges. Each year, thousands fock to our most popular peaks and passes to test themselves against one of the numerous recognised gruelling objectives that this great land has to ofer. Whether for a good cause, an enormous sense of self-achievement or just a desire to cultivate their own blister collection, each will aim to add their name to the long list of individuals who have already achieved their chosen goal. Tese challenges ofer an exciting opportunity to be part of an exclusive club – one that can only be joined by stepping out of our cosseted everyday comfort zones and into the unknown. You can’t ignore their appeal. If you scratch the surface, though, there’s a crucial ingredient missing: most are devoid of the creativity and spirit of discovery that inspired the pioneers who 34 TRAIL SPRING 2015

Looking over Buttermere towards the end of the route.

dreamt them up: the Bill Cowleys, Alfred Wainwrights and Tom Stephensons of this world (creators of the Lyke Wake Walk, Coast to Coast and Pennine Way respectively). In embarking on most modern walking challenges, we follow the same A to B as thousands before us and, as a result, create overburdened pathways across the UK’s National Parks. We’re also taking for granted that the route we are walking is the best and only way to go. In the case of the Coast to Coast or Lyke Wake, for example, the founding fathers didn’t intend for that to be the case – it’s just become convention to walk their route. I’m not saying that these challenges don’t have their place or that it’s not a huge achievement to complete one. But a cover version is rarely as good as the original. And if you prefer singing your own tune, it turns out there’s a more innovative and environmentally sustainable way of getting your outdoor kicks...

Tired of following the crowds? Then get ready for a unique new walking challenge. ItÕs called The Spider, and itÕs really got some legs... START

MURRAH

FINISH

LOWESWATER

SPIDER’S ROUTE Distance 73.6km (45¾ miles) Time 3 days Maps OS Explorer (1:25,000) OL4, OL5, OL6 & OL7; OS Landranger (1:50,000) 89 & 90 Start Murrah, near Mungrisdale (NY376315) Finish northern tip of Loweswater (NY116225)

Passing Sprinkling Tarn below Great End, with Great Gable ahead.

It all started with a cofee in Ambleside. My friend Andrew had excitedly called me and said he wanted to meet to discuss a new idea. “It’s very simple,” he explained as we sat staring out at the rainy high street. “All you have to do is start walking from a point on the border of the Lake District, pass through Grasmere in the centre and fnish somewhere on the boundary of the National Park. Te rest is entirely up to you.” I smiled at the thought. "Te beauty is that anyone can take these basic principles to create their own route and still be part of a wider community of people doing the same thing.” I imagined an intricate network of hillwalking routes, every one a unique challenge but together transforming the Lake District into a masterpiece of countless criss-crossed lines, each weaving to the centre and out again. It would be a giant web of epic adventures. With that, Te Spider was born.

Now we just had to put theory into practice. We agreed on a route that would take in some of our favourite Lakeland peaks and places: Blencathra, Helvellyn, Grisedale Tarn, Grasmere (the central point, which we labelled ‘Te Fly’ to continue the Spider theme), the Langdales, Great Gable, Buttermere and fnally the National Park boundary at Loweswater. It had all the hallmarks of a classic Lake District crossing. To add some spice to the already mouthwatering prospect, we agreed to set a time limit. “You don’t have to,” said Andrew as he supped on his second brew. “You can make it as diﬃcult or as relaxed as you like. Of course, if you’re totally mad, you might want to do it in a day.” We agreed a weekend would be challenge enough. Now all we had to do was give our route its very own name. "How about the Trail-antula?" I suggested. Cue awkward silence and imaginary tumbleweed…



SPRING 2015 TRAIL 35

Go: Stac Pollaidh Do: a winter camp

MISSION FOR

MADMEN Ben Winston opts for a night on a ‘pretty damned cold’ mountain, so you don’t have to. PHOTOGRAPHS BEN WINSTON

40 TRAIL SPRING 2015

An incredible moment before the mountains of Coigach, including the shapely Sgurr an Fhidleir (centre).

SPRING 2015 TRAIL 41

Go: Snowdonia Do: unpeopled peaks

44 TRAIL SPRING 2015

High on Crib Goch in fading light, heading towards Garnedd Ugain (right) and Snowdon (left).

You are about to enter another dimension, a dimension not only of hills and mountains, but of space. A wondrous land of empty summits and deserted ridges. It is an area that we callâ&#x20AC;Ś

WORDS DAN ASPEL PHOTOGRAPHS BEN WINSTON

SPRING 2015 TRAIL 45

YHA HOSTELLING

A DAY I N T H E L I F E Y HA

It’s one of the YHA’s best-known hostels and a key feature of the Snowdonian landscape.

SN OW DON P E N -Y-PASS

Trail sat down with guests at Pen-y-Pass to chat about its appeal... WORDS AND PHOTOGRAPHS BEN WEEKS ound at the foot of one of the world’s busiest peaks, it’s hardly surprising that the Snowdon Pen-y-Pass hostel is one of the Youth Hostels Association’s most popular mountain locations. Indeed, to say it sits at the foot of Snowdon is to do it a disservice. Perched on the apex of the Llanberis Pass, the hostel is already 359 metres above sea-level, giving walkers who intend to make the trip to the mountain’s 1085 metre summit a welcome leg-up. And there’s been a hotel here doing this job for nearly 150 years. In the early part of the 20th century the Gorphwysfa Hotel coaching inn became a base for walkers and climbers heading up routes on Snowdon, and in doing so it weaved its way into the fabric of British mountaineering history. Climber and poet Geofrey Winthrop Young was a regular from 1903 and spent every Easter there, aside from his war years, until 1941. He lost his leg in World War One and made many of his frst practice climbs with his new artifcial limb from Pen-y-Pass. Another mountaineering legend whose presence graced the hotel at the head of the pass was George Mallory; much of the training for his ill-fated Everest attempt in 1924 took place on Snowdon. It wasn’t until 1971 that the building became a Youth Hostel, and in the summer of 2014 it underwent a major £1.3 million refurbishment. Tis saw the installation of a biomass boiler to replace the old, inefcient oil system, public toilets and showers for day walkers, a new games room and classroom with AV facilities plus, according to the YHA, “the swankiest self-catering kitchen you’ve ever seen in a hostel”. Another key feature of the improved Pen-y-Pass hostel is the new café and bar, which is open to both residents and the general public: the appropriately named Mallory’s. Te hostel has adapted to the changing demands of its increasingly varied clientele, and these days you’re as likely to fnd a young family on their frst Snowdonian holiday at breakfast as you are a bunch of rugged mountaineers. What brings these people  together in the same place? Trail accosted a few willing interviewees to fnd out…

SPRING 2015 TRAIL 49

The broad curved back of Ben Nevis (left), seen from the south.

THREE PEAKS

YOUR GUIDE TO

THE NATIONAL THREE PEAKS CHALLENGE

The Scafell massif seen from Kirk Fell; the summit of the Pike is the distant central point.

Trail’s insider’s view of this popular way to reach the summits of Scotland, England and Wales asks: what kind of Three-Peaker are you?

WORDS DAN ASPEL PHOTOGRAPHS TOM BAILEY MAPS JEREMY ASHCROFT

ay ‘Tree Peaks’ in hillwalking circles and you’re guaranteed a reaction. Tat might range from the encouraging and excited to the downright disgusted. Tat’s because those two words mean a lot. Tey relate to the National Tree Peaks challenge: a popular and ofen controversial event that sees thousands of walkers – some experienced, some not – tackle the highest hills in Scotland, England and Wales within a self-imposed 24hr time limit. Detractors point to the congestion and litter caused by less responsible groups, the disruption to the remote community of Wasdale in the middle of the night (its fate, as the middle objective on a route that typically starts in Scotland) and the large groups of newbie walkers swamping the mountains on summer weekends. So much for the negative. On the positive side big groups of ‘Tree-Peakers’ raise funds for their chosen charities, and for some it is the start of an interest in the hills lasting far beyond the single day they spend on Ben Nevis, Scafell Pike and Snowdon. What’s not ofen disputed is that this is a diﬃcult challenge that’s rarely enjoyed if tackled within a mere 24 hours. It involves a lot of driving, which most groups (rightly) 56 TRAIL SPRING 2015

delegate to a hired hand, some swif ascents, and very little chance to appreciate the natural beauty that surrounds the route. While Trail wouldn’t dream of condemning the challenge, we believe that done responsibly the impact of this event can be lessened considerably, easing the burden on those groups dedicated to caring for and maintaining three of our fnest peaks. Better still, we’d encourage anyone considering the challenge to take their time over three days instead of one. Tis not only allows you to enjoy each peak in its own right, but it also gives something back to the local areas as you’re more likely to use and enjoy each. And it remains a challenge even if you do take your time; these are big mountains. Tis isn’t just a guide to getting up the peaks; this is your guide to deciding what kind of Tree-Peaker you are. And whatever the answer – be it an enlightened 24-hour challenger, or a more leisurely scenic admirer – we’ve got you covered with a route. In addition we have a third way up each mountain detailed in the following pages: an edgier, more challenging route that is everything a scrambling hillwalker could hope for. So, if you’re up for it, be responsible, stay safe and enjoy!

The sharp ridges of Snowdon viewed from the east. The summit is the third peak from the right.

BEN NEVIS SNOWDON

SCAFELL PIKE TURN OVER FOR A DETAILED GUIDE TO EACH PEAK...

ANDY KIRKPATRICK

GOING FOR BROKE Andy Kirkpatrick doesn’t pursue fame. He hasn’t sold out. He just gets on with climbing the routes other climbers won’t touch. Trail wanted to know why. WORDS DAN ASPEL PHOTOGRAPHS ANDY KIRKPATRICK

ndy Kirkpatrick has summited weirder, harder and farther-fung mountains than your average professional mountaineer. And he’s done it while hovering somewhere above the breadline, gathering together the resources for each expedition one at a time, going broke in the process and then starting all over again with nothing. He’s climbed Yosemite’s iconic El Capitan over 24 times – ofen solo and typically on its most challenging walls. He’s crossed Greenland. He’s a regular on the Eiger north face. He’s made multiple trips to Norway and Patagonia and the Alps. In between all this – and despite being severely dyslexic – he found time to pen two critically acclaimed books: the frst, Psychovertical, won the prestigious Boardman Tasker Prize in 2008; the second, Cold Wars (which won the same award in 2012), saw him described as ‘a master of irony and self-deprecation’. His talking tours blur the line between adventure speaker and stand-up comic, and he’s from Hull – one of the fattest places in the UK. Trail caught up with Andy to fnd out what the future holds for the man who may just be the toughest mountaineer out there. What have you been climbing recently? Well I was going to go and do the West Buttress of Denali [North America’s highest mountain], solo and in the winter. I’ve been trying to go there for 15 years and various things have conspired against me. Last year I decided to defnitely go, so I bought my peak fee and my satellite data. But because of needing to wear goggles almost constantly in those conditions I went for laser eye surgery. Literally two minutes afer the operation the optician asked “…and when are you going away?” I said, “In a month.” “Oh no,” he said, “you can’t go for six months.”

68 TRAIL SPRING 2015

So the Denali trip was no go? I would have been blind, in -50 deg C at above 6000m in Alaska. You’ve a 36 per cent chance of dying as it is. So I ended up having a week on the Eiger as my consolation prize. I’ve twice tried to solo the Eiger Direct, which goes up the middle of the north face. I’ve been with others too. It’s kind of an obsession. But there have been about eight deaths a day in the Alps this season; there’s just too much snow. Te face is 1800m high and even a small amount builds up quickly. I was there for a week trying, and eventually gave up. You lose a grip of reality in the months before you do something like that, then when you get there you get a huge dose of reality. On the previous trip I tweeted “Don’t let anyone ever let me come here again,” and that thought was really haunting me while I was up there. I think I’m getting too old for it. I’m 43, so I think I should be past this kind of stupidity! Is Denali still in your plans? I’m hopefully going back with a photographer, Martin Hartley, in June, then to the Patagonian ice cap in July. You have things, like skeletons in your cupboard, that you just want to get nailed and put to bed. But I’m starting to think I need more laughter in my life. Less gnarly, more fun. Your climbs do tend to be long and hard and cold. Do you like to sufer? I like places that are like being on the moon. As a kid I was really into science fction, and I love out-of-this-world places where you could reasonably be wearing a space suit: isolated and quiet. I was in Antarctica last year and we had quite a lot of discussion with the Norwegians we were with. Tey were just there to have a good time; they’re very good at what they do and they weren’t interested in sufering. Tat’s

�

Big wall climber, winter mountaineer, award-winning author, devoted father and part-time stand-up comedian: Andy Kirkpatrick is a man of many talents.

“I LOVE OUT-OF-THIS-WORLD PLACES WHERE YOU COULD REASONABLY BE WEARING A SPACE SUIT” �

SPRING 2015 TRAIL 69

MOUNTAIN

GUIDE

Understanding your map Maps can easily bafe the newbie navigator. Here we look at some of the key features you’ll fnd on the 1:25,000 Ordnance Survey Explorer. Trig point Typically marked by a concrete pillar, triangulation points are ﬁxed surveying stations – not summit markers as many people think.

Footpath Broken lines made up of short green, orange or black dashes are different types of footpaths (see panel on right for details).

Bridleway Broken lines made up of long orange or green dashes are bridleways, which can be used by walkers, horse riders and cyclists.

Clif Vertical faces or cliffs are marked by jagged black lines that look a bit like teeth. If you see this symbol on your map, always plot a route around it.

Spot height These black or orange numbers show the ground level height to the nearest metre above sea-level. They often mark the summit of a mountain or hill, but not always.

Scree These black dots represent scree slopes or areas of loose rock, which are tricky to cross.

Water Rivers or streams are shown as blue lines, while lakes and tarns are larger blue areas. If a river is wider than 8 metres, it’s shown as two blue lines.

74 TRAIL SPRING 2015

EXPERT ADVICE: PLAIN AND SIMPLE™

Graham Thompson

Rob Johnson MIC

Lyle Brotherton

Jeremy Ashcroft

GT has been Trail’s technical editor for over 20 years, and he’s our walking gear guru.

Rob is an international expedition leader and a highly qualifed mountain instructor.

Navigation expert Lyle is one of the world’s leading search and rescue authorities.

Trail mountaineering editor Jeremy has a lifetime of outdoors experience in the UK and abroad.

Grid refs clarifed

Grid letters Two letters indicate which section of the United Kingdom is represented on the map.

Eastings and northings Used in combination in this order to give a grid reference ﬁgure.

Boundary Broken long black lines represent boundary markers and shouldn’t be confused with footpaths.

Outcrop Like cliffs, outcrops and crags are best avoided on a walk. It is sometimes possible to plot a route through, but this usually involves some scrambling.

Contours Orange contour lines show you the shape of the land, including how steep it is. Usually placed at 10 metre height intervals, the closer they are the steeper the hillside is.

The most common way to pinpoint your location on a map is with a grid reference. The simplest form is a 6-figure reference, while 8- or 10-figure refs will give more accuracy. To find your grid reference take note of the grid letters (it’s NY for the map shown here). The first half of the numerical part of the reference gives you the eastings (the numbers going left to right across the page), while the second half is the northings (the numbers going up the page). As an example, the grid reference for the trig on top of High Raise is NY280095 in six figures or NY 28070 09525 in ten. Think ‘along the corridor and up the stairs’ to remind yourself that it’s eastings then northings in the grid reference.

Scales explained Ordnance Survey Explorer maps have a 1:25,000 scale: 1cm on the map represents 25,000cm (250m) on the ground. Many walkers prefer this scale as it provides the most detail, while others ﬁnd a wider view more useful (particularly on some of the complicated Scottish peaks) and opt for maps with 1:40,000 or 1:50,000 scales instead. Whichever you use, get used to what the distances on the map actually look like in the land.

Footpaths untangled OS Explorer maps show footpaths in three different ways: Green dashes: public footpaths, which the public have a legal right to travel on by foot. These may not represent an easily identiﬁable path on the ground. Orange dashes: permissive footpaths, along which the landowners have permitted public use but which are not public rights of way. These can be withdrawn by the landowner, so keep a look out for notices and signs on the route. Black dashes: paths which can been seen on the ground. These may or may not follow public rights of way; on open access land it is common for these paths to follow the most direct route. It’s also important to note that there may be paths on the ground that do not appear on the map.

Other maps are available... Ordnance Survey’s 1:25,000 Explorer maps tend to be the most popular choice for hillwalkers, but the 1:40,000 Mountain Maps from Harvey and the 1:50,000 Landranger maps from Ordnance Survey are also excellent navigation tools. Be aware, though, that many of the markings on these maps may vary from those on the OS Explorers. For example, path colours differ on Landranger maps while the contour lines are every 15 metres on Harvey maps. So familiarise yourself with your map before taking it out. �� A great one-stop shop for all aspects of map-reading – from basic to expert – is The Ultimate Guide to Navigation by Trail’s nav guru Lyle Brotherton.

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GEAR› BUYING KIT? THIS IS YOUR GUIDE...

HOT NEW KIT

ALPKIT FILOMENT JACKET £99 How Alpkit manages to combine such decent gear with such low prices is akin to the Great Pyramid of Giza, the Rosetta comet landing and Derren Brown in terms of how-do-they-dothat jaw-dropping amazement. The Filoment is a 650+ down ﬁll jacket that costs less than £100. Just. It’s not a replacement for your big, puffy insulating jacket – Alpkit suggests you think of it more as a light, windproof sweater. But this means it’s the kind of kit you’ll have use for all year round, making it even better value. The only downside? It will inevitably sell out soon – so we suggest you order yours now. We say: Multi-season apparel rarely comes at such an attractive price. Grab it with both hands. www.alpkit.com

MAMMUT COMFORT HIGH GTX SURROUND £170 These boots are one of the ﬁrst pairs we’ve seen to feature Gore-Tex’s Surround System, and according to Mammut this makes ‘sweaty feet a thing of the past’. It’s not really warm enough at the moment to fully test this, but the signs are good: the boots are light and extremely well vented, making them better suited to the milder seasons when the ability to prevent feet becoming damp from within or without will be appreciated. We say: Anything that improves foot comfort can only be a good thing. These Mammuts seem likely to please. www.mammut.ch

80 TRAIL SPRING 2015

BEST TREKKING POLES 82

WATERPROOF JACKETS BY BUDGET 86

DUFFEL BAGS 90

GEAR

TESTS YOU CAN TRUST

KIT FOR THE THREE PEAKS

FIRST TEST: NIGOR TENT

WHAT'S IN YOUR RUCKSACK?

TEAM TRAIL'S KIT RATED

WIN GREAT OUTDOOR GEAR! 101

CUILLIN RIDGE COTTON/BAMBOO T-SHIRTS £18/£23 Piers Rickard had been to Skye, done the Cuillin, but was unable to ﬁnd a T-shirt to buy. Spotting a mountain-sized gap in the market, he took it upon himself to rectify that problem. The result is a collection of T-shirts in men’s and women’s ﬁt, made from either plain cotton or wicking bamboo fabric, and available in a range of colours, all sporting a delightfully simple Cuillin Ridge design. Somewhere in the depths of his underground lair, Duncan Bannatyne is cursing a missed opportunity… We say: A tribute to the UK’s greatest mountain ridge in wearable form: what’s not to love? www.cuillinridge.com

DARN TOUGH HIKE AND TREK SOCKS from £16 You know why socks are regarded as a naff present? Because, in the main, they’re dull. But Darn Tough’s walking socks have now joined the ranks of the exceptions – socks so darned bright and colourful it’s a veritable joy to have them on your feet. Of course, colour doesn’t equal comfort; but with a variety of cushioning options, different lengths and wicking merino wool fabric, these socks are as much of a treat on your feet as they are the eye. We say: With socks this funky, it almost seems a shame to hide them in boots. www.darntough.com

LOWE ALPINE PEAK ATTACK 32L/42L £60/£70 In theory, making a great mountain pack shouldn’t be too tough. We’re not a fussy bunch, us hillwalkers. We just want a pack that’s comfortable to wear while holding all our gear (including, but not limited to, trekking poles, ice axes, car keys, waterproofs, spare layers, water and lunch), isn’t overly complicated by dangling straps and bungees everywhere, and can be slung about and dragged over every type of terrain without falling apart. The tough, trim and well-specced Peak Attacks manage all this, and at a price that leaves change to spend on the next adventure. Lowe Alpine, we salute you. We say: The Peak Attacks might just be the new benchmark measurement in terms of backpack for your buck. www.lowealpine.com

SPRING 2015 TRAIL 81

TEST OF THE BEST Where top hill kit goes head to head

TREKKING POLES Useful for taking the strain off weary knees, aiding descents and ascents and as a balance aid: a pole (or two) belongs in your arsenal. TESTER PROFILE Simon Ingram Editor Height 5ft 9in Weight 11.5st

HANDLE GRIPS Long handle grips can help you on uphill ground as you can vary your hand position. Beware hard plastic grips as they can rub and hurt over distance; cork or foam are the most common, and some poles feature inclined handles to aid distance walking.

LOCKING MECHANISM There are several different ways of locking poles once extended; the most recent development is the external cam mechanism, which is fast and easy to operate with gloved hands. The most common alternative is the internal locking screw, which – while neat and protected from scuffs and scrapes – can lose functionality if poorly cared for.

MATERIALS Poles are typically made of aluminium, aluminium alloy or (in the case of higher-priced lightweight options) carbon ﬁbre or titanium. Aluminium poles are susceptible to bending and denting whereas carbon ﬁbre poles can shatter – but with quality poles neither is particularly common in normal use.

COLLAPSIBILITY Compactness is a key consideration if you’re only an occasional user as they will need to be strapped to your pack. Poles with internal adjustment mechanisms tend to collapse using these, whereas some use a combination of folding and tensioned shock-cords that contribute to the pole’s integrity when extended. Look after these, as if that cord breaks, your pole is useless.

GEAR

TEST OF THE BEST

MAGAZINE

BEST VALUE

£45 (pair)/140g (each)

£60 (pair)/260g (each)

Alpkit Carbonlite Ultra

Trekmates Locklite

as a single (£25); great price for + available a carbon pole with a stunning weight

as a single (£30); great price for + available a trigger-lock pole; light; very compact

–

www.alpkit.com

WRIST STRAPS Some people choose to ignore or even remove wrist straps, but they can be useful in taking some strain over distance and on inclined ground; they are also useful for ensuring you don’t lose your pole on steep or boggy terrain, though sometimes being able to let go quickly is a beneﬁt! Ensure they are comfortable against your wrists and adequately adjustable.

A 3-section carbon offering from online quality/ value-monger Alpkit (the original Carbonlite was its ﬁrst ever product), this very light pole – among the lightest available – is strong, stiff and very functional. The handle is foam with a foam-lined strap, and the pole collapses using a basic, traditional internal twist-lock adjustment mechanism. The collapsed length is 67cm, which is okay if not great. 3/5

This 4-section design has one trigger-lock clip beneath the handle, which allows fast length tweakage without bending down or twisting the pole. The rest collapses in sections with dual shock-cords tensioning them together. Material is aluminium, with a foam handle and ﬂeece-lined strap. Broken down (including the handle section), the pole is an impressive 32cm: shorter than the stated 37cm. 4/5

FEATURES

Very much functional rather than ﬂashy, the Carbonlite Ultra nevertheless manages to impress, principally due to that phenomenally low weight and a price that makes it near-unbeatable. The carbon-strengthened resins used – usually only found on premium poles – are strong and rigid, and while their reliability decreases if bashed (they will snap or crumble rather than bend) at this price it’s a risk worth running. 4/5

The key feature here is the compact folded length and the hybrid adjustment, which makes this ideal for occasional use or to keep stashed away until needed. The double shock-cords appear robust, which should combat their inherent vulnerability – though the poles should not be stored folded long-term as this could cause weakness in the cord. A Velcro strap is also supplied to lash the sections together when folded. 4/5

COMFORT

The handle is basic but comfortable with subtle contouring. The pole is solid and doesn’t click in use, and that light weight makes it easy to manoeuvre and lowers repetitive fatigue in your arms. Feels incredibly robust for the weight. 4/5

The handle of this pole is very comfortable, and works well with the strap. The foam could do with being a little deeper on the shaft to aid uphill slogging, but this pole has clearly been designed with light weight and slimline function in mind, and with this it copes pretty well. 4/5

IN USE

There is very little to dislike about this Alpkit pole; some products benefit from being robustly simple, and while refinements could be argued for (a shorter length, longer handle and the addition of trigger locks), these would add cost and weight. For those who see poles as a beneficial extra rather than an essential, you can’t go wrong. Durability will always be a concern with internal locking mechanisms, but keep them clean and running smoothly and they should give years of use. 5/5

The pole bows under tension but it’s by no means the bendiest here. Length adjustment is fast and easy with gloves on, but there is only 14cm of give – which means these poles may not suit the very tall, short or fussy. The other problem is how easily the shock-corded sections come apart when crossing stodgy ground if the tip gets trapped. These are the major drawbacks; they merit their place here due to their good price, impressive feature set and very compact folded size. 3/5

VALUE

A terriﬁc blend of function, quality materials and light weight. Very good value. 5/5

Well-featured, light and compact for the cash. Good to have a ‘single pole’ option too. 5/5

Great as a single or a pair, and as a full-time pole or a back-up. Basic, but ace for the cash.

An excellent light option for a carry-incase pole that is also up to the challenge of regular use.

TOM BAILEY

TIPS & BASKETS Most poles come with removable caps over metal tips; on paths these are ﬁne, but while most rough UK ground will swallow those rubber caps in no time, some fragile overseas trails actually require you to cap the tips of walking poles to avoid damaging the path, so don’t throw them away! In terms of baskets, wider baskets are better for snow, whereas even narrow baskets will be useful for muddy ground.

shock-cord design pulls apart easily; handle short; lean adjustment margin

DESIGN

SHAFT Lighter poles can be flexible under strain; it’s a matter of personal preference but ensure this doesn’t bother you, as you may prefer something more robust especially on rough or steep ground or when walking with a heavy pack. Another personal preference is the inclusion of shock absorption; some people prefer rigid poles for mountaineering situations, whereas long-distance trekkers sometimes benefit from cushioning. Many have the option to turn shock absorption on/off. This is fine but remember the more moving parts a pole has, the more there is to go wrong!

basic, short handle unit; available online only

www.trekmates.co.uk

VERDICT

4.2/5

4.0/5

SPRING 2015 TRAIL 83

SNOWDONIA

ROUTE

14.5km/9 miles

SCRAMBLE STRENUOUSNESS NAVIGATION TECHNICALITY WELSH 3000s TRAIL 100 COUNT

Carnedd Llewelyn

3 ■ ■■ ■■ ■ ■■ ■■ ■ ■■ ■■ 3 2

Yr Elen, the Black Ladders and the head of Cwm Llafar, seen from the walk-in near point 2.

Join Tom Hutton for an easy scramble on the Llech Ddu Spur, during a ‘quality mountain day with few equals’ in the mighty Carneddau.

here’s limited scrambling in the Carneddau. So if you want a really good day, you need to combine your handson time with some great walking. Fortunately that’s something there’s no shortage of in this massif; and this walk links the ﬁnest Grade 1 scramble in the range with the two highest peaks to make a quality mountain day with few equals. It starts by trekking up the lovely Cwm Llafar – what a gorgeous valley this is. And as the walls start to close in, and you’re faced with the daunting barrier of the Black Ladders directly ahead, it sneaks rightwards to

Tackling the crux of the scrambling on the Llech Ddu Spur.

take an improbable line through some seriouslooking ground. The scrambling is easy, but rewarding; and it delivers you almost to the summit of Carnedd Dafydd. From here on it’s skyline walking extraordinaire, with good paths leading up to the highest of the Carneddau peaks, Carnedd Llewelyn – named after Dafydd’s brother. A short but delightful ridge then leads across to Yr Elen – named after Llewelyn’s wife; and here you start your descent back into the valley to complete one of Snowdonia’s real classic rounds. SPRING 2015 TRAIL 109

TOM HUTTON

lassic A real c d roun

ROUTE

SCRAMBLE

FACTS Conway

Liverpool Rhyl Bodelwyddan

Betws-y-Coed

Llangollen

Barmouth Aberystwyth

Distance 14.5km (9 miles) Total ascent 1050m Time 7 hours Start/fnish Gerlan, east of Bethesda, SH633662

Nearest town Bethesda Terrain the Llech Ddu Spur is a Grade 1 scramble with most of the difculties passable. The walk-in follows good paths as does the high mountain section. The fnal descent freelances a bit and crosses wet ground Maps OS Landranger (1:50,000) 115; OS Explorer (1:25,000) OL17; Harvey / BMC British Mountain Map (1:40,000) Snowdonia Accommodation Youth Hostel in Ogwen Valley (Idwal Cottage) 0845 371 9744; camping in Ogwen Valley and Capel Curig; St Curig’s Church: independent hostel in Capel Curig (01690) 720469; B&B in the Bryn Tyrch, Capel Curig (01690) 720223 Public transport buses Capel Curig - Bethesda, infrequent buses to Gerlan www. traveline-cymru.info Guidebook Scrambles and Easy Climbs in Snowdonia by Jon Sparks, Tom Hutton and Jerry Rawson, pb Greystone

SNOWDONIA

To get this route and maps on your phone now, go to www.viewranger.com/trail Route code TRL0678

110 TRAIL SPRING 2015

Carnedd Dfydd and the Llech Ddu Spur from Cwm Llafar.

SH633662 Head south-east on the lane that runs out of the village, cross the Afon Caseg and then bear right to cross a bridge over the Afon Llafar. Continue to the end of the road and bear left, up a drive and past a waterworks sign. Bear right over a stile, and turn straightaway left to follow the ﬁeld edge up. Cross another stile and turn right to follow marker posts out onto open ground, high above the Afan Llafar.

small waterfall down to your right. Continue up until you are deep within the cwm and then, as you near the steep back wall, roughly level with the foot of Craig y Cwmglas Bach – the imposing spiretopped crag to your right – you should be

SH648653 The valley now slowly opens out offering fantastic views up the peaks at its head. Stay on the main path, with the Afon 1 Llafar always down your left, and after around 3km the ground ﬂattens and opens out a little, giving you your ﬁrst glimpse of the imposing cliffs of Llech Ddu on your right. With the walk-in now over, it’s time to recce the ground ahead.

Start

MILES KILOMETRES

0 0

of the route. It’s avoidable to the left if you don’t fancy it. After this, the action comes as a series of rock bands separated by grassy ledges. Tackle them as directly as you like and when they eventually

Carnedd Dafydd

Finish

5 4

Once past these, bear left to cross wet ground and drop all the way to the banks of the Afon Llafar. Ford the stream – there are a few useful spots – and then rejoin the main path, which you follow back into Gerlan.

Carnedd Llewelyn Yr Elen

2 2

SH673651 The north-east ridge looks tempting from here but it’ll drop you into the wrong valley. Instead, keep straight ahead (north-west), and enjoy easy walking past the rocky tors of Foel Ganol.

able to make out a rough path turning back sharp left on yourself. This path takes an easy-angled ramp of bilberry and heather up between rock bands towards the apex of the Llech Ddu crags. Pass through a spectacular band of quartz and locate a broad, grassy platform in an exposed position right out on the crest of the ridge. This is where the scrambling starts. First surmount the rocky wall directly above you; this can be taken directly but there are paths that ﬂank it if you don’t fancy it. Now

SH664638 To the right of the crag, you’ll see a steep, scree-covered bank that leads up into the secluded hanging valley of Cwmglas Bach. The scrambling action actually begins by cutting a diagonal traverse back on yourself on the left-hand wall of this cwm. To get up to it, turn right, away from the main path, and cross the boggy, boulder-strewn plateau, to locate a zigzagging path that leads up the left-hand end of this bank. There’s usually a

SH662630 Bear left here to drop east into Bwlch Cyfrwy-Drum and then climb steeply up onto the summit plateau of Carnedd Llewelyn, the highest peak in the range and Wales’ number three. Leave the plateau by heading north-west to drop steeply into a deep col on the north-west ridge. This narrows sweetly and clambers back up to the shapely summit of Yr Elen.

continue upwards over a couple of easy, small rock steps. You’ll eventually pass a sizeable pinnacle down to your right and after this, the ridge starts to narrow somewhat. Thread your way around or over a succession of ﬂakes and pinnacles and you’ll eventually reach the sloping table that makes the crux

1400 1200 METRES 1000 ABOVE 800 SEA 600 LEVEL 400 200

dissolve into the mountain, continue straight ahead to the summit.

GRADIENT PROFILE

In association with

ALWAYS TAKE A MAP OUT WITH YOU ON THE HILL

14.5km/9 miles

6 8

CLASSIC ROUTE

Traverse of the Brecon Beacons Here’s a skyline route taking in all the Brecon Beacons’ major summits, in the company of Jeremy Ashcroft.

130 TRAIL SPRING 2015

BRECON BEACONS exception rather than the rule – you strike lucky and come across a dream line that is exactly what it looks like from below. Seen from Brecon (or, even better, the visitor centre above Libanus), you can stand with your arm outstretched and slowly trace your ﬁnger across each of the Brecon Beacons’ shapely peaks. The line your ﬁnger makes is the line you can walk. To make things even better, once you are up high you stay high. Only at two places do you drop below the 2,000ft mark.

This walk is linear, so you’ll need to arrange transport at either end. The route between ﬁnish and start along the minor roads is ‘do-able’ on foot, but it does add considerably to the day. One neat option is to wild camp at some point along the route. There are plenty of quiet spots to tuck yourself away for the night and make a two-dayer of the whole traverse. And to get the big ascent out of the way ﬁrst while you are still fresh, the best way  to walk is from east to west.

The pyramidal outline of Cribyn from near the top of Pen y Fan.

TOM BAILEY

rom afar most mountains display a fairly simple geometry, and it’s easy to be fooled by clean lines that you imagine you can follow direct to the summit. Closer inspection generally dispels this notion, and the harsh reality of the complex nature of mountains quickly kicks in. The ridge you thought would get you past those steep crags ends up being just more steep crags. Or that attractive chain of linked summits is in fact individual tops miles apart. Sometimes though – and this is the

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