BRITAIN’S BEST-SELLING HILLWALKING MAGAZINE
EXCLUSIVE! MOUNTAINEERING LEGENDS Part 1 JOE BROWN
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UNR 3M O PEAK • PACKED • ISSUE! AIN IG H WR
12 W
SEPTEMBER 2012
10 MUNROS IN ONE WEEKEND
SEPTEMBER 2012 £3.99
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The Scottish hill-bagger’s route to rule them all!
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SOUTH WALES
BRECON BEACONS
Seeking solitude on the Black Mountain PLUS...
LAKE DISTRICT
Six hills Wainwright missed!
The one that got so knackered it lost count
ON
cover sep12 sw.indd 1
TEST JACKETS + SUB-1KG DAYSACKS First Test NEW Pack for distance PLUS best of the Hilleberg tent Map software West Highland Way
13 routes + maps Ben Nevis Arenig Fach Beinn Eighe 03/08/2012 13:39
CONTENTS OUT THERE SKILLS
Where this month’s issue will take you...
10
Fond recollections of “a man so full of life”
Porters’ kit on its way
12
Plus: the man who modernised Mallory’s jacket
Dream peak
14
Haystacks, the final resting place of Alfred Wainwright’s ashes, and a fine wild camp spot
Going light
Repelling midges; waterproofing a jacket; tidying up rucksack contents; getting the wife walking; British brands; sack liner or dry-bag?
YOUR TRAIL
16
The world of hillwalking – according to you lot
Subscribe and save!
32
Fancy an Aquapac case for your smartphone? Sign up for Trail today and we’ll send you one!
Why we love...
138
... sheep, denizens of wild and woolly hill terrain
Two brothers are bowled over by Glen Shiel’s Five Sisters. TOM BAILEY
p18
AW wasn’t here, but Trail was! Page 50.
46
Ask Trail
Trail talk
Keep your smartphone dry with this subscription gift: page 32.
44
Tips for saving weight on long distance routes – without sacrificing comfort
p34
MATTHEW ROBERTS
RIP Roger Payne
ADVENTURES
10 Munros in 1 weekend 18 Conquering the many peaks of Glen Shiel
Brecon Beacons
34
Lost hills of Lakeland
50
Joe Brown
58
The wild open spaces of the Black Mountain Exploring six hills Wainwright ignored A rare interview with a modest mountaineer
Trail goes west, to The Black Mountain. MATTHEW ROBERTS
The historic Kangchenjunga summit expedition of 1955 and Joe Brown today (right, aged 81). RGS & SIMON INGRAM
p58
WIN! GEAR WORTH £2,536 Kit from Berghaus,Fjällräven, Haglöfs and CamelBak up for grabs
GEAR Win Fjällräven gear!
57
Gear news
66
Hilleberg Anjan 3
68
Four fantastic tents and tarps to be won The must-have kit that’s coming soon A new lightweight 3-person tent, revealed
Multi-activity jackets 70 For all that stuff you get up to on the hill
20-30 litre rucksacks 80 Sub-kilo offerings for fast ’n’ light action
p70
Mapping software
90
Create, capture, download and share routes
Quick! Check out our multi-activity jackets...
p80 Lightweight rucksacks: ported and sorted
ROUTES Lake District
105
Peak District
107
Snowdonia
109
Route 1 Hart & Dove Crags Two peaks and a lakeside stroll, with views
Route 2 Grindsbrook Clough A rocky ascent to whet your scrambling appetite Route 3 Arenig Fach A relatively short trip that feels like a big day out
Snowdonia
111
North Highlands
113
Route 4 Moel Hebog A monster of a mini mountain is up for grabs
Route 5 Beinn Eighe The awe-inspiring Torridon Hills await your boots
West Highlands
Route 6 Ben Nevis A sneaky way up Britain’s highest peak
115
West Highland Way
117
Route 7 Crianlarich to... Route 8 ...Bridge of Orchy to... Route 9 ... Kinlochleven to Fort WIlliam
90+ miles is a tall order for a three days, so our first Ultimate Weekend brings you this long distance route’s impressive northern half
Ennerdale
123
Snowdonia
129
Route 10 Pillar Route 11 High Stile Route 12 Haycock Fancy a long weekend walking the Lake District? Why not head to this unspoilt valley, home to one of the UK’s longest-running wild land projects
Route 13 Northern Carneddau round Our Classic Route takes you through curvy mountains that puncture the myth that Snowdonia has no true wilderness
Classic Route
with 3D maps SEPTEMBER 2012 TRAIL 9
OUT THERE
HAYSTACKS LAKE DISTRICT
It’s not the prettiest, nor the grandest, nor particularly the most accessible. No – the thing that sets Haystacks apart from the 213 other Wainwright peaks in the Lake District is its summit. Rare for a Lake District mountain, the south-east top of 597m Haystacks contains a perfect little lake, off which sunsets frequently bounce to stunning effect. It’s down to Innominate Tarn that Haystacks has served as a wild camp, a postcard subject and – most notably – resting place for Alfred Wainwright himself. Prophetically (and correctly) he wrote in The Western Fells of outcrops that ‘will be grittier still when the author’s ashes are scattered here.’ Sniff.
DO IT! ›› TURN TO PAGE 123
14 TRAIL SEPTEMBER 2012
dream peak
The summit of Haystacks, with Pillar and Ennerdale Water (left) and High Crag and Buttermere (right). WWW.STUART-HODGSON.COM
september 2012 Trail 15
Where? Glen Shiel, Scotland What? Munro ticks
Going west above Glen Shiel with Skye in the distance.
18 Trail september 2012
Your starter for ten Want to get your Munro tally off to a flying start? How does ten in two days sound?
Words ben weeks Photographs tom bailey
september 2012 Trail 19
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Where? The Lake District What? Hills Wainwright missed
THE LOST HILLS OF
LAKELAND We’re familiar with the 214 hills Alfred Wainwright wrote of in his guidebooks... but what about the ones he ignored? We go in search of the fells that escaped AW's radar… WORDS PHOEBE SMITH PHOTOGRAPHS MATTHEW ROBERTS
50 TRAIL SEPTEMBER 2012
Unlisted and uncrowded. Introducing two cracking non-Wainwrights: Brown Pike and Buck Pike.
SEPTEMBER 2012 TRAIL 51
Where? Brecon Beacons, Wales What? A wander westwards
Looking down upon Llyn y Fan Fach with the peaks of the Black Mountain stretching into the distance.
34 TRAIL SEPTEMBER 2012
WILD OPEN SPACES
The Brecon Beacons stretch far beyond the famous peaks at their heart. Join Trail as we head west to explore the Black Mountain... WORDS DAN ASPEL PHOTOGRAPHS MATTHEW ROBERTS
SEPTEMBER 2012 TRAIL 35
MOUNTAIN LEGENDS PART 1
NO ORDINARY JOE WORDS AND PORTRAIT SIMON INGRAM
D
id you hear the one about Joe Brown? You know, the one about him sliding down the Snowdon railway, riding a flat stone like a skateboard. Or the one about the mountains of mail from all over the world addressed to simply ’The Human Fly, UK’. About the plumber from Manchester who would become the first person to climb the most difficult peak in the world. The one about the kid who began climbing armed with a length of sash washing line his mother had deemed ’too weak’ to hang clothes on. “Hang on,” begins 81-year-old Joe Brown, wagging a corrective finger. “It was never a washing line.” No? “No. Back in the forties, around roadworks they used to put these iron pins into the ground around the hole, and between them, there would be a rope. We’d pinch that.” As far as ripping the foundations from beneath a legend go, this is a pretty pedantic point. But while we’re at it, we’ll correct another myth: Brown wasn’t the ’climbing plumber’ of legend – he was a builder. And while justly famous for his extraordinary rock-climbing ability, you may be surprised to hear that Joe Brown did an awful lot else besides. It’s just that – like all bona fide folk heroes – he doesn’t really talk about it. This interview is one of the few you’ll read with Brown. Rarer still, this November he will take to the stage at the Royal Geographical Society to recount his part in one of the key mountain climbs in history: the first ascent of Kangchenjunga, third highest mountain in the world, in 1955. ❯
58 TRAIL SEPTEMBER 2012
Rock-climbing legend, adventurer, Kangchenjunga-summiteer: Joe Brown at 81, June 2012.
SEPTEMBER 2012 TRAIL 59
group test what we tested Karrimor Marmot Fjällräven Berghaus Mountain Equipment The North Face Haglöfs Montane
70 Trail september 2012
X-Lite Helium £120 Mica £120 Back £160 Velum £200 Firefox £200 Apparition Anorak £225 Endo £230 Air £250
multi-activity jackets
multiactivity jackets A lightweight jacket is ideal for moving fast across the hills whether you are walking, running or biking, but it also needs to be functional‌
test graham thompson Photographs Tom Bailey
september 2012 Trail 71
buyer’s guide
Digital mapping Six on-screen options for creating, capturing, downloading and sharing routes...
T
he use of GPS (Global Positioning System) receivers to help walkers find their way across the hills is very popular, while the addition of digital mapping makes these devices even easier to use. These days you’re far more likely to see somebody peering at
test ben weeks
90 Trail september 2012
a screen in the palm of their hand than battling in the breeze with a full-sized paper map. Depending on the software, digital mapping lets you create, capture, download and share routes – both your own and those of others. As with all software, digital mapping
is dependent on compatible systems and devices. Plus, some are designed for use out on the hill while others allow you to create or browse routes before you leave the house. These are six of the current leaders in digital mapping…
digital mapping best for mobile users at a glance Computer mapping no GPS receiver mapping no Smartphone mapping iPhone, Android and Symbian Website www.viewranger.com
ViewRanger From £10 The ViewRanger app turns your smartphone into a GPS navigator for considerably less cash than a dedicated GPS receiver. Available for most Apple, Android and Symbian operating systems, the app is free to download and includes unlimited access to web maps and satellite photos from Bing and OpenStreetMap.
These maps can be used with your smartphone’s GPS receiver for real-time navigation, or they can be saved to your phone for use offline. More detailed mapping is available from the online ViewRanger Shop, and prices start from £10 for 1:50,000 for all 16 National Parks or 1:25,000 mapping of
one park of your choice. Other options include the ability to pick your own areas of OS map to download, plus international mapping for parts of Europe, America and New Zealand. The My.Viewranger community webpage allows you to create, share and download routes with other ViewRanger users.
best for multiple devices
at a glance Computer mapping PC only GPS receiver mapping yes Smartphone mapping iPhone, Android and Windows Website www.memory-map.co.uk
jacques portal
Memory-Map From £25 Memory-Map’s software can be installed on your computer via direct download or by purchasing a CD-ROM complete with map credits. It’s only PC-compatible, which is frustrating for Mac users. Alternatively, install the Memory-Map App straight to your GPSenabled smartphone. All that’s required then
is to simply purchase mapping by the square, tailoring the area covered to your needs. The app is licensed for use on up to five devices including PC, laptop, iPhone, iPad, Android phones and Memory-Map Adventurer GPS units. Maps can be shared between devices, allowing you create a route on your PC and
transfer it to your smartphone, or log a track on your Adventurer GPS and upload it to your laptop. Memory-Map’s TrailZilla site also enables you to share and purchase routes with other members of the community. Plus, you get free access to downloadable Trail routes with a subscription to the mag (see page 32)! september 2012 Trail 91
snowdonia
4
route
11.3km/7 miles
STRENUOUSNESS NAVIGATION TECHNICALITY TRAIL 100 COUNT
Moel Hebog
■■■■■ ■■■■■ ■■■■■ 1
The huge cleft in Moel yr Ogof from Bwlch Meillionen.
tom hutton
A mo nster of a min i mo unt ain !
It should be impossible to overlook a mountain that’s as dominant as Moel Hebog, yet many still do. Not Tom Hutton though...!
M
oel Hebog is an imposing beast, towering above the bustling streets of the picturesque village of Beddgelert with a presence that belies its modest 782m. And it’s this modest height that keeps the crowds away, especially among such exalted company as Snowdon, which is just a few kilometres up the valley. But Hebog is a great peak to climb, either as an out-and-back from Beddgelert, or, better still, as a circular outing that tracks along its north-west ridge taking in the outlying tops of Moel yr Ogof and Moel Lefn too. The ridge loses a lot of height before it eventually dissects the infamous Nantlle Ridge, in the col beneath Trum y Ddysgl. But the circuit leaves it before that, and breaks east into the Beddgelert Forest, close to the atmospheric remnants of the once huge Princess Quarry. Ironically it’s in the forest that the navigation starts to get difficult, and the final leg will involve a lot more map-reading than the outward one. But the paths and tracks are clear and easy to follow, so there’s not too much that can go wrong. The final stretch is also pretty flat: a delight on hill-weary legs.
�
The final steep pull onto Moel Hebog.
september 2012 Trail 111
Oban
4
JURA
Glasgow
ISLAY
ISLE OF ARRAN
Edinburgh
route
snowdonia
Berwick-upon-Tweed
Ayr
Ballantrae
Jedburgh Dumfries
Newton Stewart Stranraer
Penrith
Windermere Kendal
Middlesbrough Northallerton
SH584483 Park on the A4085, north of the York Lancaster bridge. There’s usually space Skipton Leeds on the road but there’s also a small car park. Walk up the Liverpool Manchester Rhyl hill and take a drive on the Conway Sheffieldroad). Cross a left (private Bodelwyddan bridge and pass a farm, Betws-y-Coed Llangollen then keep straight ahead Derby at a junction of paths. Barmouth Continue to wherePeterborough the path Aberystwyth Birmingham swings left to more farm Hay-on-Wye Cardigan buildings, and here bear right Distance 11.3km Brecon Gloucester over a step stile onto a (7 miles) footpath. Follow this to a Oxford Pembroke Total ascent 970m marker post that directs you Swansea Time 6-7 hours Cardiff Bristol steeply uphill. Continue up Start/finish Beddgelert, through a couple of fields and SH584483 Minehead out onto the open hillside. It Southampton then leads along a Nearest town Brighton pronounced rib before losing Beddgelert Exeter Poole itself in a field of scree. Keep Terrain rough and Bodmin Plymouth ahead through this and you’ll often faint paths over eventually reach a small high mountains; some plateau where you need to scree, some bog, some bear left to climb the last few untracked sections easy metres to the trig point. Maps OS Landranger
facts
© Crown copyright in association with BAUER’s media licence no. AM105/09
SH565469 With the first and highest summit in the bag, you’ve reason to celebrate, but there’s still a long way to go so no room for complacency yet. Turn right with the wall to your left and enjoy a long descent all the way down into Bwlch Meillionen. This is usually quite wet and you’ll be glad you wore gaiters. Keep ahead to cross the saddle then climb steeply onto Moel yr Ogof. Pass through a deep crevice and where the path splits, keep ahead on the fainter track that directly up onto the rocky summit. This has great views east towards Snowdon.
2
Accommodation camping near Beddgelert; Youth Hostel at Bryn Gwynant 0845 371 9108; B&B in the Saracen’s Head in Beddgelert (01766) 890223 Public transport the nearest railway station is Betws-y-Coed: National Rail Enquiries 08457 484950; and the 97a bus runs from there to Beddgelert: www. traveline-cymru.info Guidebooks Day Walks in Snowdonia by Tom Hutton, pb Vertebrate Graphics
SH556478 From the cairn, keep straight ahead into another col, this one a little easier than the last, and then climb again, this time to the summit of Moel Lefn. The way off Moel Lefn can be difficult to locate and there’s some very steep ground around so care is needed. Keep
3
Tourist info Beddgelert (01766) 890615 (Easter – Oct) or Betws-y-Coed (all year round) (01690) 710426
Start
1400 1200 METRES 1000 ABOVE 800 SEA 600 LEVEL 400 200 MILES KILOMETRES
1
Moel Hebog
1 0 0
In association with
Ingleton Bentham
(1:50,000) 115; OS Explorer (1:25,000) OL17; Harvey Superwalker (1:25,000) Snowdonia Snowdon
GRADIENT PROFILE
always take a map out with you on the hill
Newcastle -upon-Tyne
Carlisle Keswick
Belfast
11.3km/7 miles
4
1 3
ahead until you reach the top of the steeper section, then bear half-left to drop to a clear path that then cuts rightwards along the edge of the steep north-west escarpment. Follow this down and then around to the left, where it crosses Bwlch Sais, before dropping steeply again to a wall by the disused Princess Quarry. Cross a stile and follow the wall steeply down the edge of forest, where you’ll meet a footpath that leads right into the trees. SH553496 Keep straight ahead to walk down through the wood to a junction with a forest track. Turn left here and then, after 100m, turn right onto a narrow path that leads back into the woods (cross a wooden bridge after 50m). Follow this to another junction and turn right to walk out of the forest and over a boggy clearing before going back into the forest. Keep straight ahead to a forest track and turn left. Now follow this to a junction and keep right. Continue around a hairpin and turn
4
1
112 Trail september 2012
3
right at another junction. Fifty metres further on, turn left onto a narrow track that leads through an open area to a wall (stone steps). Cross this and continue to a stile at the bottom of the field. SH570495 Turn right onto a broad track and follow this towards the Afon Meillionen, where it swings left. Immediately after this, bear right to cross the river and
5
Looking across to Craig Cwm Silyn and the Nantlle Ridge from Cwm Trwsgl near point 4.
Hafod Ruffydd
3
4 3
2 2
4
keep ahead along the edge of the next field to join a track in front of the farm of Meillionen. Drop to the drive and turn right to pass in front of the farm. Go through a narrow gate and bear half left to cross the field to steps that lead back into the woods. Go half left to a junction with a forest track and turn right. Follow this to a sharp right-hand bend and turn left onto a footpath. Cross a stream and continue alongside a wall until you eventually reach a junction with the path you walked in on. Bear left to retrace your earlier steps back to Beddgelert.
2
Moel yr Ogof
2 1
To get this route and maps on your phone now, go to www.viewranger.com/trail Route code TRL0278
5
5 4
5
6
Finish
7
5 8
6 9
7 10
11
walkers’ wonders
Why we love...
...sheep
Words dan aspel photograph tom bailey
N
ow we all know what you’re thinking… but do stop that sniggering at the back, because we’re going to tell you some perfectly wholesome reasons why we love sheep. The first is obvious: wool. While it may not be the industry it once was, our ancestors’ ancestors have been warding off the cold with woollen garments since the time of… their ancestors. Wonderful wool traps countless impossibly small pockets of air that means soothing warmth for all (except the shorn sheep, of course). And it soaks up plenty of moisture before it fails, too, keeping on working even when wet. Sadly it’s been uneconomical to bother shearing most sheep for some time now… except merinos. Looking like a cross between a llama and an Irish water spaniel, these highly prized creatures – mainly farmed down under (New Zealand) – produce wool of a sublime texture that won’t pong, and wicks away moisture like nobody’s business. Best of all, its thin but strong construction negates the single most unpleasant aspect of wool: it itches like sandpaper pants filled with fleas. Secondly, sheep keep the countryside in order, efficiently gnashing their way through overambitious weeds and grasslands. Without the perpetual gurgling of their four-
chambered stomachs and near-constant ruminating on nibbled cud we’d be overrun by greenery on our temperate, rainy isle. Our third reason: we respect them. Or we should. Sheep stay out in the hills, whatever the weather. While most of us flip up our hoods and flee for the pub at the sign of a squall, they stoically endure the kind of conditions we can’t abide. What’s more, they walk delicately along impossibly steep slopes, pioneering new tracks and paths that only the most sure-footed of scramblers dare follow. Our final reasons, inevitably, are a little more tender. So feel free now to start sniggering at the back, because a lot of us in the hillwalking world feel a genuine affection for sheep. Is it because they remind us (a little) of dogs? Is it because of the wee bleating, bouncing lambs that fling themselves willy-nilly across our hillsides in the summer months? Or perhaps it’s because there’s something enormously reassuring about them. They’re always there. In abundance. The UN estimates suggest there’ll be well over two billion of them globally by 2050. In fact there are just over 14m of them in the UK alone – enough for each family of four to adopt one as a pet. Which is a lovely thought. Oh, and they’re delicious with mint sauce. T
Tell us what you love at www.lfto.com and Facebook and we may celebrate the things you adore in a future issue of Trail...
138 Trail september 2012