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LIVE FOR THE OUTDOORS SEPTEMBER 2015
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CHOOSE YOUR
CHALLENGE BEN NEVIS Ledge Route: your thriller ticket to the top
4 PEAKS 15 MILES ONE CAKE
Cardinal Munros Stunning 4-summit hit-list that spans Scotland!
The Snowdonian circuit with a twist
BEAT IT! the one that made the most of the long days (but then had a frozen bivouac at 8830m)
Demolish ascents Banish blisters Avoid lightning
W 12 ALL-NE RDS A NING ROUETGUEIDC E + STUN
+ RIDG AY IN 3D! D T IC R T IS LAKE D
EVEREST
40 YEARS ON: Doug Scott & Chris Bonington on glory, grit and survival on top of the world
Contents
WHERE TRAIL WILL TAKE YOU
If you’ve never seen the north face before, the enormity of its cliffs may send a shiver down your spine
BASE CAMP
SKILLS
Climb it
6
Moel Hebog: a peak of ‘incongruous brilliance’
Experience it
8
‘Golden month’, when hills are at their best
Scrambling challenges
10
Best British hands-on-rock – caught on video
The Mountain Inquisition 12 Super-shepherd James Rebanks bares all
SAVE!
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Expert advice
ADVENTURES 66
The fine art of ascent; uphill vs downhill; how to regulate your temperature; timing and pacing; all about cramp; blisters explained; the merits of headgear; how best to deal with lightning; where to travel to find via ferrata
18 20 54
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33
Four points of the compass, four superb peaks
40
Long Crag scramble
48
How grippy Coniston rock inspired confidence
Your top mountain moments + Face of fatigue
Subscribe to Trail
Cardinal Munros
Fifteen Welsh miles, with the promise of cake
The world of hillwalking: your thoughts
Out there
24
The toughest walkers’ way up The Ben
Moel Siabod challenge
YOUR TRAIL In box
Ben Nevis Ledge Route
97
Outdoor kit worth over £380 is up for grabs
Threading the Needle
52
Ouch! It’s a classic Lakeland Grade 2 scramble
Everest 40th anniversary 56 Looking back to the first ever British ascent
Scrambling high on the Ben Nevis Ledge Route, with Carn Mor Dearg behind and Britain’s highest mountain looming large to the right – page 24.
The Siabod Half Round: not for the faint-hearted – page 40.
Below: you want great outdoor gear? We got it here – starting on page 72.
TOM BAILEY
Above: it's not a fry-up; it's hill fuel – page 66.
GEAR GUIDE 40-50 litre rucksacks
ALL NEW! ROUTES 74
The eight best all-year-round load luggers
Soft shells
78
‘Inbetween’ jackets to suit a range of budgets
Mountain watches
82
Rugged wrist-mounted technical time-tellers
Top kit for lightweight days 84 Gear for unencumbered summer hillwalks
First test
87
Fjällräven’s eco-friendly new waterproof
What’s in your rucksack? 89 Mull ML Tony McLean talks us through it
Used & abused
91
How worn and torn is the stuff Trail uses?
1 Blea Rigg 2 Green Crag 3 Sheffield Pike 4 Eglwyseg Mountain 5 Yr Eifl 6 Tyndrum 7-9 Rhyd-ddu 10-12 Glen Etive
101 103 105 107 109 111 113 117
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Tyndrum
Glen Etive
122 127 129
10 11 12
Walks of a Lifetime Coniston Round Sheffield Pike 2 7
8 9
Blea Rigg
Green Crag
3
1
Rhyd-Ddu
Yr Eifl 5
PLUS Walks of a lifetime Ridge guide Map of the month
5
Eglwyseg Mtn Ridge Guide Cyfrwy Arête
Map of the Month Pen y Fan
● CHOOSE YOUR ROUTE AND GO HILLWALKING!
SEPTEMBER 2015 TRAIL 5
4
DO IT THIS MONTH
EXPERIENCE
30 GOLDEN DAYS
S
ome people consider summer the best time to be in the hills. But those in the know prefer September, for a slew of very good reasons. The light of the ‘magic hours’ – dawn and dusk – dips slightly lower, bathing the landscape in a gorgeous golden glow that lingers for longer. Mornings carry that weird, fresh smell that is both warm and cool at the same time. The rich foliage of summer has dipped from the hyper-green of youth
8 TRAIL SEPTEMBER 2015
to mature mellow, as if the landscape has grown into its skin. The tourists go home. The temperature goes from sweltering to just right. You can see sunrise and sunset in a single, relatively civilised walk. And for those who like to wander north of the border, the dreaded Culicoides impunctatus – better known as the Highland midge – has gone to its deserved death for another year. So seize this month, the best month to be in the hills. Until next May, anyway...
Base Camp As this picture (taken on Lancashire’s 557m Pendle Hill) proves, you don’t need to hit the highest heights to experience the magic of sunrise or sunset. TOM BAILEY
SEPTEMBER 2015 TRAIL 9
BRITAIN’S MOUNTAIN If it’s adventure you want, Trail’s Britain’s Mountain Challenges video series is the perfect place to start. FILMED & DIRECTED BY BEN WINSTON
1
Striding Edge Lake District
A perfectly sculpted ridgeline, a secluded glacial tarn and Helvellyn – the most popular mountain in England – await you on this classic scramble that’s almost become a rite of passage for UK hillwalkers. The route is exposed enough to unsettle you but easy enough for pretty much every level of ability, so it’s the perfect challenge to get you started.
H
illwalkers are spoiled for choice in Britain. Our mountains may not rival those of our European neighbours in terms of height, but when it comes to personality and variety they take some beating. The vast majority can be comfortably ascended and descended in a single day, and if you catch them in the right conditions the most technical piece of gear you’ll need is a tough pair of walking boots. But if there’s one activity that gets a hillwalker’s pulse racing more than any other, it must be scrambling. That feeling of adrenaline when you leave the footpaths behind and inch onto an exposed ridgeline or rugged rock wall is hard to explain to someone who’s never experienced it. But trust us, once you’ve tried it you’ll be hooked for life. To celebrate our love for gnarly mountain routes, during the h llast 12 months th we’ve ’ teamed t d up with ith during h Mountaineering Council) l to the BMC (British d that h showcase h produce a series off videos the g greatest scrambling a bl challenges h ll in Britain. The collection co ect o now ow numbers a muscular nine,, and we’re confident within them lies some of the most s spectacular p l footage ever shot of some of Britain’s most legendary eg y routes. Check Check ec out tthee selection se ect o of o filmss 9 8 on the right, which h stretches from the razor-edged ed d rocks k of Snowdonia to o the h giants of the Scottish 2 3 Highlands, then n 4 1 visit www.lfto. com/challenges to see them come to life. 7 5 6
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2
Jack’s Rake Lake District
A scramble with a difference, in that it’s mostly enclosed in a rocky trench rather than open to the elements on an airy ridge. But the fact that this trench cuts straight up the cliff face of Pavey Ark is enough to set alarm bells ringing, and the route isn’t without its complications. This video showcases the unique terrain of Jack’s Rake and examines key sections of the scramble.
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Sharp Edge Lake District As it’s possibly the most challenging of Lakeland’s walking ridges, we decided Sharp Edge needed special treatment, so settle down in your seat and get ready for some spectacular aerial footage. This white-knuckle scramble up Blencathra is only classed as Grade 1, but feels much tougher once you’re up there.
Base Camp
CHALLENGES
4
Threading the Needle Lake District
Only a lunatic would want to climb the spindly monolith of Napes Needle (we know; we’ve done it) but it’s one of the most impressive sights in the British mountains and well worthy of closer inspection. Even in grim conditions on Great Gable, as this video proves, the Grade 2 route that sneaks behind it is a challenge to savour. Turn to page 52 to read more...
5
Crib Goch Snowdonia
North Wales is famed for the savagery of its rock routes, and this daring scramble is perhaps the finest example in Snowdonia National Park. Starting from the car park at Pen-y-Pass and forming the first – and most significant – obstacle on the Snowdon Horseshoe, the crest of Crib Goch is the very definition of a knife-edge arête.
6
Tryfan & Bristly Ridge Snowdonia
Recently voted the most popular mountain route in Britain by Trail readers, you get two great scrambles for the price of one in this spectacular video – starting with a direct ascent of Tryfan’s complex north ridge, over the Cannon Stone and past the twin towers of Adam and Eve, then up Bristly Ridge and onto the spiky summit of Glyder Fach. Perfection.
7
Llech Ddu Spur Snowdonia
The most underrated of all the routes in our series, the Llech Ddu Spur provides an ideal introduction to Grade 1 scrambling on a long and satisfying ridge in the northern Carneddau range. The moves are technically simple but the terrain is incredibly exciting, eventually gaining the 1044m summit of Carnedd Dafydd. It’s so good you won’t believe you’ve never heard of it.
8
CMD Arête Highlands
This is the big one. The CMD Arête is a narrow sliver of ridgeline that snakes directly to the top of Ben Nevis, complete with enough hands-on-rock action to make you wonder why you’d ever consider the more featureless path that approaches from the opposite side of the mountain. And if you want an even more exhilarating route up The Ben, turn to page 24...
9
Aonach Eagach Highlands
Widely regarded as the toughest stretch of ridgeline on the UK mainland, the Aonach Eagach twists, turns, rises and falls along the 3km barrier of mountains that line the northern edge of Glen Coe. As this amazing footage shows, the crest is a Grade 2 tangle of pinnacles, gullies, slabs, and loads of fun! It also bags two Munros – Meall Dearg and Sgorr nam Fiannaidh.
● WATCH EVERY VIDEO ONLINE NOW AT WWW.LFTO.COM/CHALLENGES
SEPTEMBER 2015 TRAIL 11
Go Ben Nevis Do The Ledge Route
BATTLING THE BEN Ben Nevis is the highest mountain in Britain, and this is the toughest route a hillwalker can take to the top. If you’re looking for an exciting new challenge, read on... WORDS OLI REED PHOTOGRAPHS TOM BAILEY
W
hatever way you look at it, or whichever way you approach it, Ben Nevis is a hell of a challenge. Huge, in fact. Monstrous. The biggest and baddest weÕve got. Standing 1344 metres tall, The Ben is by some distance our highest mountain Ð and getting to the top of it is no mean feat. The so-called Ôtourist trackÕ starts almost from sea-level and twists uphill for 7.5 punishing kilometres, while the winter climbing routes on its shattered north face are some of the most coveted in the world. Then thereÕs the weather. Snow is present on top for most of the year Ð if not all of it Ð and it isnÕt uncommon for sun to be shining in the surrounding glens while winter storms are battering the summit. The climate on the plateau is described as subarctic as a result of the average annual temperature sitting below 0 deg C, and navigation skills are absolutely essential in poor visibility. The trig point that marks the loftiest spot in Britain stands uncomfortably close to a vertical cliff edge, �
24 TRAIL SEPTEMBER 2015
Scrambling high on the Ben Nevis Ledge Route, with the mountain's 1344m summit above the cliffs behind. This route winds directly up The Ben’s famous north face, without the need for ropes or technical climbing gear.
SEPTEMBER 2015 TRAIL 25
Go Scotland’s extremes Do furthest-flung high points
CARDINAL MUNROS
Fancy a challenge that’s short in number but satisfying in breadth? Grab your compass...
S
N
W
imple ideas are often the best. Many people familiar with the 283 summit-strong Munros list – that is to say, Scottish hills over 3,000ft in height as defined by the eponymous Sir Hugh – know that Ben Hope is the most northerly. Some may also know that Ben Lomond is the most southerly. But what of the other cardinal points? Step forward the remote eastern summit of Mount Keen and the western Sgurr na Banachdich. While this may raise little more than a well-whaddyaknow shrug, what may raise more is that these four summits really couldn’t be more different from each other. Four summits, between them encompassing a windswept Cairngorms wilderness, a dose of the striking north, a tooth of the fearsome Cuillin Ridge and a podium amid the woody south? Do them all in one trip, split them over a few, but rest assured: climb these four Munros and you’ve had a dose of the variety Scotland has to offer that few are lucky enough to experience. Voilà: the Cardinal Munros!
N
S W E NORTH Ben Hope 3,041ft/927m EAST Mount Keen 3,081ft/939m
S
SOUTH Ben Lomond 3,196ft/974m WEST Sgurr na Banachdich 3,166ft/965m 65m
SEPTEMBER 2015 TRAIL 33 3
© REAGAN PANNELL / ALAMY
Dramatic from any angle, but none more so than from the north.
Ben Hope 3,041ft Far-flung in the rafters of Scotland, magisterial Ben Hope casts a long shadow. A burly mountain like this surrounded by the flatlands of coast gives its strange, misfit neighbours an electrifying aura. It feels like no other place. WORDS SIMON INGRAM
A
n ascent of the most northerly Munro in fine weather is a transcendent experience. The rich light, unstoppable views and spacious surroundings give it the air of a hoisted lectern in a desert. Get up there, you think, and you would feel like the king of Scotland. King of the world, for that matter. The optimism pleasingly implied by its name is purely a quirk of translation; it actually means ‘hill of the bay’, in reference to its position in the pincer of two wide inlets, and its visual dominance over both. To the Norse incomers who named it, it must have been some landmark as they approached Scotland from the north. You can see the tip of its top from 70 miles out at sea. And from it, you can see the Orkneys on a clear day. All around is the elegant, endless ‘flow country’: the ancient peatland that dominates this part of the extreme north. Ben Hope is 927m high but it feels twice that. Physically, it’s a brute. From most directions it’s a sprawling, vaguely triangular dome, like a weathered pyramid. It looks commanding, yet uninteresting. But circumnavigate it, and you start getting a feel for the mountain’s complexity and the severely fluted cliffs that ring its northern and eastern flanks. Most sources will tell you that the mountain can’t sensibly be climbed from any other
34 TRAIL SEPTEMBER 2015
direction than the west, via the well-established path TRAIL’S ROUTE following the Allt na Caillich from Strathmore. This Strenuousness ● ● ● ● ● isn’t so; from above, Ben Hope’s climax resembles Navigation ●●●●● a capital ‘E’ facing north-east, with deep scoops Technicality ●●●●● between tall, steep ridges begging to be explored. There are 14 lochs on this wild edge of the peak; Thurso some of the ridges are difficult and push scramblers’ nerve. All these approaches are difficult, arduous, remote, pathless and utterly stupendous. Lairg So it’s understandable that you might want to Ullapool take the route that creeps up the mountain’s most amenable flank. And there’s no shame in that. Inverness Just don’t think it’s all this mountain has to offer. Best route a direct ascent Ben Hope’s summit itself is a somewhat calm on good paths from the little world. A trig, a windbreak, that astonishing Strathmore River. In descent trace the edge of view. Robert Macfarlane spent an uncomfortable night here in winter, and wrote about it in his book the summit plateau southeast then south-west to The Wild Places. He was attracted by ‘a spatial rejoin the ascent path logic, a desire to reach this coincident point of high Distance 8km (5 miles) altitude and high latitude’. See it on a map, and this Time 4 hours Start/finish Muiseal little patch of the highest ground in this extreme place is a triangular plateau. It looks like an arrow. (NC461476) And the arrow points dead north. Launch yourself off the summit on this bearing and fly steady; you won’t hit anything higher until Siberia. And by this point, you won’t be flying north any more; you’ll be flying south.
Go north Wales Do the Siabod Half Round
Fifteen miles, four summits, 1600 metres of ascent, secret views of Snowdonia...
WACKY RACES ...and free cake? Trail sees if the Siabod Half Round is half as good as it sounds. WORDS BEN WEEKS PHOTOGRAPHS TOM BAILEY
40 TRAIL SEPTEMBER 2015
Looking into the heart of the Snowdon Horseshoe from the slopes of Moel Siabod, the first significant summit of the Siabod Half Round challenge. Why would anyone want to rush through scenery like this?
SEPTEMBER 2015 TRAIL 41
Go the Lake District Do overcome fear
LONG WAY DOWN
WORDS HANNAH JAMES PHOTOGRAPHS TOM BAILEY
Trail’s newbie scrambler discovers facing your fears is a surprisingly simple way to achieve greater things.
T
he map lied. Long Crag was not quite as small and inconsequential as it looked on paper. It loomed above me capped with grey cloud, and as I stood at the bottom contemplating what was about to come I decided that this was a misdeed I was not going to forgive. Brian Evans’ Scrambles in the Lake District reserves three stars for classic routes with continuously interesting lines. Only a few Grade 1 scrambles have been awarded this elusive triple accolade, and Long Crag is one of them. It stands high above Coniston in the Lake District at the mouth of the Coppermines Valley. It is easily accessible, the climb starting only a short walk from Coniston village centre. Let me be clear: I walk to get to the top. It is always about getting to the top, often as fast as I can, like some sort of fitness test if you will. The hard work is put in and more often than not the ascent makes me question my sanity, but then it’s done and I know that I would unquestionably do it all over again. The views or simply succeeding in the challenge of reaching the top are often rewards enough. This time, though, it was all about the journey, and exploring what makes Long Crag such a great scramble. Here’s the hitch, though: scrambling was unexplored territory for me, and I needed persuading that it is truly an exciting and worthwhile adventure. Scrambling can be an unnerving exercise, especially for someone who has never done it before. And it’s extremely daunting for someone who is not altogether comfortable with heights. It requires much confidence in one’s abilities; but my colleagues Dan and Tom both assured me that I would be absolutely fine. Yet when Tom suggested we’d have a practice run on a lone piece of rock before the real deal, their smiles started to falter. Slick rock and chunky boots are not a recipe for success, and as I floundered around trying to find a secure hold in order to pull myself up they must have wondered what they’d let themselves in for. I was a frustrated mess. Physically I knew that I was capable of doing it; but physiologically committing to the rock, and so embracing my fear of being on the edge, was something else entirely.
At first Hannah found the climb up Long Crag nerve-racking, but it soon began to inspire confidence she didn’t know existed.
SEPTEMBER 2015 TRAIL 49
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Everest 1975
24
SEPTEMBER 1975 HOURS ON TOP OF THE WORLD
September 24 sees the 40th anniversary of the first British ascent of Everest, via its hardest route – and one of mountaineering’s greatest survival stories. WORDS SIMON INGRAM
56 TRAIL SEPTEMBER 2015
Glasgow-born Dougal Haston stands on the summit of Everest, 7.30pm. Behind him the sun sets; ahead lies a night he may not survive. DOUG SCOTT
24 SEPT, 1975 4PM Along the divide between painfully bright white ridge and flat navy sky, something moved. A tiny, silvery figure jettisoning a puff of snow now and then, drawing the eyes of those watching thousands of metres below. Moments later, it was joined by another – left to right, like birds on a church roof. Had they been inching right to left, this would be good news. But they were moving left to right. This meant they were dead. “Christ. They’re still going uphill.” From his viewpoint at Advanced Base Camp, Chris Bonington had already watched an avalanche miss the pair by some 40 metres through his telescope. After the six-hour gap in visual contact that had followed, the sight of Doug Scott and Dougal Haston on Everest’s summit ridge did not trigger the relief he had hoped. With the sky already deepening, Everest’s lethal curfew was falling. At the highest altitudes of the Himalayas, margins of survival were bolted to daylight hours and exhaustion levels: darkness would bring diabolical temperatures and complete blackness on a ridge the width of a pavement and air two-thirds emptied of oxygen. Already tired from 11 hours of physical purgatory and still pushing on, the mountain was about to turn on Scott and Haston. Bonington knew, as did they, that they had a good chance at the summit. What was certain was they would not make it back. Lifting the radio to his ear – a slight briskness of delivery the only betrayal of his agitation – Bonington addressed Peter Boardman, stationed at Camp 5 high on Everest’s South-West Face. “Pete... your role tomorrow could be a rescue.” As Boardman took the call and began to sort painkillers for frostbite, his tent mate Mick Burke peered out of the tent, up into the fearsome overhanging black crags that marked the crux of the mountain’s most difficult route, and the beginning of Everest’s Death Zone – the last 848m of the mountain that lay above 8000m, through which Scott and Haston were now gunning for the top of the world. “Well, if they don’t make it... they should have their first bounce around here.” Apart from the tragic death of a young porter on the trek in – shaking Scott particularly hard, to the point of almost abandoning the expedition – and the departure of a disappointed and debilitated Hamish MacInnes, everything on the massive 1975 assault on the SouthWest Face of Everest had been going well. The � principal obstacle that had foiled all previous
SEPTEMBER 2015 TRAIL 57
EXPERT ADVICE: PLAIN & SIMPLETM YOUR EXPERTS
MASTER UPHILLS:
7 GOLDEN RULES
Rob Johnson MIC Rob is an international expedition leader and mountain instructor.
Lyle Brotherton Navigation expert Lyle is one of the world’s leading authorities on search and rescue.
1GO SLOW
Ever heard the fable of the tortoise and the hare? Experienced hillwalkers h don’t ascend slowly because they’re old; they do it because they know that this is the way to endure a big ascent. Many a sprightly newbie has eagerly tried to blitz up the lower stages of a hill climb, only to collapse halfway up. Settle on a much slower pace from the get-go (a good rule of thumb is to adopt what you consider a sensibly slow pace, then halve it) and you’re much less likely to hit any physical limits on the way up. It also gives you time to enjoy the view, plan your path and generally be a calm, collected little soul – which is why many professionals call it the ‘guide’s pace’. On Kilimanjaro, the Swahili term ‘pole-pole’ – literally ‘slowly, slowly’ – has become a mantra for trekkers.
2INCREASE ASCENTS
It sounds obvious, but the way to get better in the long term is to push yourself in the short term.
Jeremy Ashcroft Trail’s mountaineering editor Jeremy has a lifetime of outdoors experience.
Trekking poles are perhaps more often utilised on downhill stretches due to their propensity for lessening impact on the knees; but consider the reason why they lessen impact on the knees kn and d you begin b i to t see their virt virtue for any terra terrain, especially if you’re carrying ca a heavy pa pack. You can demonstrate this at demonst home, wi with a pair of poles and some bathroom scales. Standing on the scales, lightly place the tips of the poles either side of you as you would if standing on a hill. By applying the tiniest bit of pressure, you’ll immediately see a couple of stone come off your weight. With even more weight than that dropping off every step of a walk when using trekking poles in anger, it’s not difficult to see the benefit.
3STEP SMALL
Taking smaller steps uphill not only reduces the effort required to get your knee high; it stops wear on your hip flexors, or iliopsoas – the muscles that run down the front of your hips and thighs and engage with every step. Inclines place strain on these muscles as you are forcing them to lift higher and bend at a sharper angle with each step. Those with tight hip flexors will suffer more from the irritation this uphill action can cause. To determine whether this is you, lie flat on the ground and draw your right knee up towards your chest; if your left leg leaves the ground as you do this, you probably have tight hip flexors.
GO DIRECT OR ZIGZAG? There has been at least one academic paper written on the matter. In ‘Zigzagging: theoretical insights on climbing strategies’ (Llobera & Sluckin, 2007) it is theorised – amid much talk of metabolic energy cost per unit of distance – that walking straight uphill (or downhill) is beneficial only on slopes that have an angle less than the not-very-steep 16° – beyond which a switchback-style ascent is more beneficial in terms of energy expenditure.
66 TRAIL SEPTEMBER 2015
4ENLIST HELP
Thiss is simply training. Tolerance is a big deal when it comes to climbing: the more you do it, the more muscle you build, and the more you increase your stamina. Seek out ascent to build into your route, increasing it a little extra each time you go out, and you’ll find your tolerance of ascent ramping up.
UP AND 5WARM STAY FUELLED © JAN MIKA / ALAMY
GT – Trail’s technical editor for over 25 years – is our walking gear guru.
Big ascents are as essential to hillwalkers as swimming is to a fish – and yet for many it’s the least enjoyable part of a route. Here’s how to minimise your misery when the contours start to stack up...
© PETOGRAPHER / ALAMY
Graham Thompson
Getting your muscles warm before they’re asked to work hard is a given: a few simple stretches or, as is usually the case anyway, a nice level walk-in is all you need to do. But as big ascents are often morning affairs, make sure you’re hydrated and have eaten sensibly. Slow-release food with a low glycaemic index (often
TRAIL
Just slow right down, and accept that you will reach the top.
TITLE BOUT! Uphill vs Downhill Pain As downhill usually comes after uphill, tiredness has usually taken its toll and makes the jarring action of downhill unpleasant. But you are going down... IT’S A TIE!
Effort Again, it’s all about the gravity here; and regardless of what physical state you’re in, if you were low on energy you’d much rather obey the rules of Isaac Newton than Superman. DOWNHILL WINS!
Risk It’s a well-worn stat that – following the adrenaline high and physical effort required to get to a summit, and the fact that daylight tends to be weakening rather than strengthening with descents – 80% of accidents happen on the way down. So – ignoring the fact that everything that goes up must come down – it’s a tick for uphill. UPHILL WINS!
Payoff Most ascents end with a summit, a view, a life-changing memory. Most descents end with a nice sit down, a cold drink, a pub. Ooooooh, this is a tough one – but then, anyone can go to a pub... UPHILL WINS!
abbreviated to GI) for breakfast will arm you for the day: oats, coffee and – yes! – a carb-rich fry-up are all fine. Hydrate well, and just in case, keep some quick-release sugary snacks such as jelly beans or chocolate on hand for any energy dips. You’ll only get a short-term benefit, but that may be all you’ll need.
6DO YOUR HOMEWORK You wouldn’t turn up for a marathon without putting in some time at home, and turning up at the foot of a mountain is no different. It’s often said the best training for hillwalking is hillwalking itself, but we’re not talking about training. Of course, it’s good to keep walking, excercising and generally staying active in between trips to the hills –
but you’ll do yourself far more benefit simply by watching your lifestyle. Keeping yourself in shape, shedding any extra weight you’re carrying – both on your feet, in your backpack and, ahem, around your waist – will give you a spring in your step you wouldn’t believe.
7KEEP CONFIDENT
Psychology is perhaps the most underrated aspect of endurance. Worry burns calories – but, more importantly, it affects your psychological ability to deal with physical endurance. Ever notice how your feet always get sore a mile before the end of a route?
How you reach the summit just as you’re about to run out of steam? That’s because your mind knows the end is in sight and calibrates your body accordingly. On uphill stretches, worrying that you won’t make it or are about to collapse in a shiny pink heap serves no purpose other than to increase the chances of you doing so. So avoid worrying at the first sign of fatigue: just slow right down, and accept that you will reach the top – even if it takes you a bit longer to do so – and there’s no cause for panic. As the metres fall slowly away beneath you, the natural high that confidence brings will carry you the rest of the way.
SEPTEMBER 2015 TRAIL 67
TOM BAILEY
Verdict
UPHILL WINS! It’s the climbers who take home the bacon: now all we need to do is find a route that keeps going up and up and up, like a weird surrealist staircase...
TEST OF THE BEST TOP HILL KIT GOES HEAD TO HEAD
TESTER PROFILE Graham Thompson Technical editor Height 5ft 11½in Weight 11st 10lb Clothing size large
40-50 LITRE RUCKSACKS A 40-50 litre rucksack can accommodate your gear-carrying needs for the entire year. Here’s Trail’s pick of what’s out there. COMPRESSION STRAPS These are found on the sides of some rucksacks and allow you to compress the body of the sack to help stabilise the load. They are also useful for stashing items onto the side of the rucksack, such as trekking poles and waterproof jackets.
SHOULDER STRAPS The shoulder straps take some of the weight, but they need to be carefully contoured and padded to make them comfortable. As we are all different shapes it is important to try them for size, fit and comfort before parting with cash.
PHOTOGRAPHS GRAHAM THOMPSON
WAND / SIDE POCKETS Originally designed for avalanche probes or ‘wands’, these pockets on the side of a rucksack are often made of stretchy mesh fabrics and are ideal for stashing tent poles or trekking poles as well as smaller items including water bottles or snacks.
HIPBELT This is designed to carry most of the load if the pack is heavy, but when carrying lighter loads it may only be used to ensure stability of the pack. Either way, it should fit snugly around your hips while being comfortable and easy to adjust. Look for some foam padding for maximum comfort.
Test of the best
MAGAZINE
BEST VALUE
m
£100 / 1330g
Berghaus Explorer 40 www.berghaus.com
MAIN COMPARTMENT ENTRY The entry to the main compartment may be a conventional lid with a buckle or a ziparound closure. There are pros and cons of both designs, but lids have the advantage. There are no zips to break so you can overstuff the bag, and the lid often has an excellent pocket for smaller items like maps and guidebooks.
HYDRATION POCKET If you like to use a hydration bladder with a feeder pipe to drink from rather than a water bottle, then look for a rucksack with a pocket for the hydration bladder inside the pack. All the models featured here can accommodate a hydration system.
Vaude Brenta 50
adjustable back length; + price; twin main compartment
back system; side compression + ventilated straps; adjustable back length
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less airflow across back than others; there are lighter options; no women’s version
no women’s version; not quite as comfy with heavier loads as some packs
This pack is designed with Vaude’s Aeroflex back system, which allows the shoulder straps to be raised to adjust back length. The back system also holds the pack away from the body of the wearer. There is a main and lower compartment as well as side and front stretch pockets and compression straps. The lid is a fixed design with a good large pocket. The weight of 1303g is acceptable. 5/5
FIT
The Biofit back system features a shoulder harness system that can be lengthened to suit your back length, but there is no women’s version of this pack. The back system is stiffer than some others, which is good for heavier loads, but it isn’t quite as well-contoured and shaped as some other packs so it tends not to mould to the body quite so well. 4/5
This pack has no female-specific option, so it may not fit women perfectly. The back length can be adjusted by raising the shoulder strap harness, though, and there are also top tensioning straps to fine-tune the fit. The hipbelt is quite wide but both the shoulder straps and hipbelt are slightly less precise in their fit than some designs. Not bad, just not the best fit. 4/5
COMFORT
There is less airflow on this pack than others, as you don’t get the ‘trampoline’ design on the back system, but there is an air chimney up the middle of the back and open mesh coverings. There are no cut-outs on the hipbelt or shoulder straps either. So overall it’s sweatier than the best, but it is stable and great with poorly packed loads due to its stiffness. 4/5
A ‘trampoline’ mesh panel holds the sack away from the body, so airflow is superb to reduce the build-up of sweat. You don’t get quite the soft padding on the shoulder straps and hipbelt of other packs, however, and this is not quite as comfortable as others with heavy loads. But these are small niggles as overall this is pretty good. 4/5
IN USE
There is a zip-out divider between the upper and lower compartments, making this a useful pack for overnight trips as you can organise gear easily. The lid is a fixed design, so less care is needed to check it fits the top properly. I like the compression straps and mesh side pockets, and the hipbelt pockets are great too. It’s a simple and effective design. 5/5
There is a (removable) divider between the main and base compartments; this design is great for separating gear if you’re on an overnight trip. The lid pocket is nice and large and the lid itself is a fixed design that protects the top opening to the main compartment from the rain. I like the side compression straps and the stretch pockets on the body. 5/5
VALUE
Very well-priced, but it has a smaller capacity than some other packs and you aren’t getting as much airflow as some others, either. 5/5
This is a great price for what you’re getting and while the details may not be absolutely perfect, it’s great on the hill. 5/5
An ideal hillwalking sack for most walkers in many situations, but it lacks some nice details.
Performance on the hill is very good and you get more airflow across the back; great for £110.
VENTILATED BACK SYSTEM So that you don’t get too sweaty, many rucksacks have mesh panels that hold the sack away from the body to increase airflow and thereby reduce the horrid clammy sensation that some rucksacks can cause. The greater the airflow across the back, the less clammy you will feel. Back systems without such airflow may be closer-fitting, more stable and lighter. But those without open mesh foam don’t soak up rain or snowmelt.
m
www.vaude.co.uk
FEATURES Developed from the Berghaus Expedition Light 80, this 40 litre pack features a Biofit back system, which allows the shoulder straps to be raised to adjust back length. You get twin main compartments and a fixed lid. Side compression straps, mesh side pockets and a front stretch stash pocket provide loading options and it all weighs in at a respectable 1330g. 5/5
POCKETS At least one external zipped pocket is useful for guidebooks, maps and GPS receivers, with some people liking several and others tolerating fewer. Stretch pockets without zips are commonly placed on the front of the rucksack and these are ideal for stowing waterproof jackets between showers. Pockets on the hipbelt are ideal for snacks and GPS receivers. Lid pockets are great for guidebooks, sunglasses or sunscreen.
£110 / 1303g
VERDICT
4.6/5
4.6/5
SEPTEMBER 2015 TRAIL 75
BEST BUDGET FOR YOUR
TESTER PROFILE Graham Thompson Technical editor Height 5ft 11½in Weight 11st 10lb Clothing size large
SOFT SHELL JACKETS Soft shell jackets fill the middle ground between waterproof jackets and insulating fleeces. Here we feature the best across the price ranges. POCKETS Big pockets are great for storing maps, guidebooks and gloves, but they can also be used to protect your hands from wind and light rain. Rucksack belts obscure access to some pockets so make sure they’re well-positioned to avoid this problem.
HOOD The hood should fit your head snugly so it doesn’t blow off, but it should also move with your head so you can see where you’re going. The peak may become bent when the jacket is stashed in a rucksack, so look for a wired one that can be easily reshaped to allow good vision.
MATERIAL Soft shell jackets are typically designed to be more water- and wind-resistant than fleece while being comfier and more breathable than waterproof ‘hard’ shell jackets. Some materials have a wind- and water-resistant membrane sandwiched between the inner and outer layer of the fabric to improve wind and water resistance, but this will be less breathable than an open-weave nylon, which won’t be as wind- or water-resistant. So you need to balance the pros and cons of the material against your needs.
DESIGN Soft shell jackets are designed to be more comfortable than waterproofs, so they tend to be short and made from softer, more comfortable fabrics that are stretchy and more durable than many waterproof fabrics. Good movement in the sleeves will ensure the cuffs don’t ride up your arms when scrambling or climbing over stiles.
INSULATION
VENTILATION
Some soft shell jackets have polyester pile or fleece finish inside for extra warmth. Others don’t have this, so they won’t be so warm. But you can wear them all over other thinner insulating layers, such as a fleece or thick base layer. If you want a soft shell just for colder conditions, an insulated one is ideal. For a year-round option, a less well-insulated design that can be worn over other insulation will be ideal.
Even the best breathable fabrics allow condensation to form, so it’s important that you can increase ventilation of the jacket. A front zip can be used for venting, as can underarm zips (also called pit zips), while mesh linings in pockets can also increase airflow. Side zips and more breathable panels on the sides are also used to increase breathability.
UP TO £100 MAGAZINE
APPROVED
£40 / 603g (size men's L) m n
£65 / 283g (size L)
Simond Alpine Softshell
Rab Ventus
www.decathlon.co.uk
m n
£100 / 546g (size L)
m n
Montane Alpine Stretch
rab.equipment
www.montane.co.uk
pockets; stretch side panels; durable good pockets; hood; + price; + lightweight; fabric; very wind- and water-resistant very breathable
good pockets; hood with wired peak; + four very breathable
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no hood; material is less breathable than some; top chest pocket quite small
FEATURES Simond clothing is available through Decathlon and carries extremely impressive price tags. This jacket uses a stretch abrasionresistant material with a water-repellent membrane inside. The brushed polyester finish on the inside provides some warmth and comfort. There are two main pockets plus a third smaller chest pocket. 4/5
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less insulation, less wind and less water resistance than other soft shells
less insulation and less water resistance than some; not the lightest
The Ventus provides just a little more wind and water resistance than a fleece but lacks the insulation of one. It has two main pockets placed high on the body, plus a hood. There is hem drawcord to keep out draughts, while the cuffs are elasticated but there is no hood adjustment. It’s minimalist compared to most soft shells for sure. 4/5
The four-way stretch Chameleon3 is a polyester fabric without a membrane where the tight weave ensures it is very windproof and very breathable, though not quite as waterproof or as warm as some others. The men’s has four large pockets with superb ease of access, the women’s has only the two main pockets, but both have a hood with a wired peak. 5/5
Available in men’s S-XXL and women’s XS-XL, the fit is close and slightly restrictive (and particularly under the arms, I found) so you might want a size up from usual. But there was good movement in the sleeves without the hem or cuffs riding up. Cuff Velcro tabs allowed a close fit and the collar fitted well, although a drawcord collar could fit closer. 4/5
Men’s sizes are S-XXL and women’s sizes are 8-16, with the jacket fitting closely without being tight or restrictive. The hood even fitted okay due to there being stretch in the material, which allowed it to hug my head and move well. The cuffs too – despite only having elasticated cuffs – fitted well, and the cuffs and hem didn’t budge when I raised my arms. 5/5
The men’s version is in size S-XXL and the women’s version is in size 8-16. The fit isn’t loose but it did allow me to wear a thin fleece underneath. There are Velcro cuff adjustment tabs and a hem drawcord, and I found these areas didn’t easily ride up. The helmetcompatible hood has a remarkably good fit that puts most soft shell jackets to shame. 5/5
A little stiff due to the close fit, so I felt I was in a straitjacket to some degree, but a larger size may overcome that. The brushed inside finish of the fabric is comfy and this extends to the chinguard area of the collar. The body totally blocks wind and all but the heaviest of rain. It is fairly warm too, but it isn’t as breathable as a soft shell without a membrane. 4/5
This is a thin, stretchy, wind-resistant top with minimal insulation. Its comfort level is high, but it is not very warm, so in summer you could wear it over a base layer but in autumn you’ll need a thin fleece or thick base layer system. Not as water- or wind-resistant as other soft shells, but for walkers who carry a waterproof all the time this may be a benefit. 4/5
This is ideal for a wide variety of conditions as you can wear insulation underneath or a waterproof over the top, and it is comfortable enough to wear all day thanks to its softness and breathability. It doesn’t have the high level of insulation or waterproofness, but that makes it a more flexible layering garment for hillwalkers. 5/5
IN USE
The material is nice and abrasion-resistant, making this great for scrambling over rock. The two main pockets are easily accessed above a harness and ideal for hands or a map, but the smaller chest pocket is a little too small really. It takes a phone or GPS receiver but it would be great if it could take a map, leaving the others free for the hands. The lack of a hood is a drawback. 4/5
This is superb at what it does, which is provide a stretchy, comfortable, slightly wind- and water-resistant layer. The pockets have very easy access, and are nice and large. The hood is great too. My problem is I’m not sure how useful it is. Some people will love it while others will prefer a fleece or thicker soft shell. But it is unique in what it offers so well, and for that reason it demands a look. 4/5
On the hill this is great for walking, scrambling or mountaineering as it is comfortable, breathable and has four great pockets (two for women) so you can warm your hands and stash maps for easy access. The hood has a wired peak and a fit that make navigating across a wet and windy hillside a breeze. The only minor niggle is that other options are lighter. 5/5
VALUE
The price is outstanding and cannot be challenged. The jacket may not be perfect, but the price is. 5/5
The price is good but not stunning as this uses much thinner fabric than higher-priced options, but it’s a better design than similar options. 4/5
The price is good for what you’re getting as this is better suited to many hillwalkers than most jackets at any price 4/5
An outstanding price for a soft shell that is very, very good. Hard to find a better one unless you choose very carefully.
A thin and stretchy spin on the soft shell concept that is ideal for climbing, backpacking, and fast and light activity.
One of the best soft shell jackets available for hillwalkers at any price. Others are lighter or warmer, if that is what you need.
FIT
COMFORT
VERDICT
4.2/5
4.2/5
4.8/5
SEPTEMBER 2015 TRAIL 79
ROUTE 3 SEPTEMBER 2015
Lake District 12km/7½ miles 3 hours
ROUTE STATS
Sheffield Pike
Sheffield Pike from the Glencoyne traverse.
One of England’s great alpine-style paths is as little-known as the craggy fell it hides behind. Seek them out, urges Richard Down.
S
heffield Pike leaps from the shores of Ullswater, wrestling the attention of drivers away from the shimmering waters and neighbouring fells. For most, however, it is a scenic diversion en route to the peaks and ridges of Helvellyn. Climbing to the summit of Sheffield Pike.
Even for those bagging their Wainwrights, it is usually picked off as a slightly annoying deviation from a broad valley path on the way to higher summits. But this is to miss out on a fine climb. A narrow path hugs an attractive
ridgeline, which weaves between outcrop and heather as it veers directly above Glenridding. Approaching it directly allows a private view that at times seems distinctly Welsh: the shape of the summit massif is reminiscent of Moel Siabod. And this is just the hors d’oeuvres; the Glencoyne traverse is waiting. While the Corridor Route below Scafell Pike and Pillar’s High-Level Route get snarled up with guided groups in peak season, few have even heard of this lonely track. Yet it bears comparison. Less than a couple of feet wide at its broadest, this former miners’ path contours improbably around the head of a steep-sided grassy valley. And like the High-Level Route, it feels more Austrian than British. Back down at the water’s edge, it remains hidden and better for its isolation.
SEPTEMBER 2015 TRAIL 105
RICHARD DOWN
Strenuousness ●● ● ● ● Navigation ●●●●● Technicality ●●●●● Wainwrights 2
Lake District
ROUTE 3 SEPTEMBER 2015
Always take a map out with you on the hill
12km/7½ miles 3 hours ROUTE INFO Carlisle Keswick
Penrith
M
Windermere Kendal Ingleton Bentham Lancaster
Skip
Distance 12km (7½ miles) Total ascent 943m Time 3 hours Start/finish Glencoyne Bay car park (NY386188) Nearest town Keswick Terrain steep, stony tracks (some rocky outcrops require hands for balance); boggy summit, narrow sheeptrack-width path with mild sense of exposure, broad moorland Maps OS Landranger (1:50,000) 90; OS Explorer (1:25,000) OL5; Harvey British Mountain Map (1:40,000) Lake District; Harvey Superwalker (1:50,000) Lakeland West
ORDNANCE SURVEY MAPPING © CROWN COPYRIGHT. CREATED WITH MEMORY-MAP. LICENCE MEDIA089/12
NY386188 Park at the pricy National Trust Glencoyne Bay car park. From here Sheffield Pike looms large. Follow a newly built path tracing the road behind a drystone wall then cross the road to continue on a pretty lakeside track.
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NY387179 Cross the road close to the bus stop and take a tiny path that seems to disappear under low-lying branches and a busy stream. The path snakes uphill rapidly and weaves beneath the spreading arms of beech and oak. The impressive summit silhouette appears as the climb levels out and the trees drop away. Pass through an open gateway in the drystone wall and resist the temptation to turn right through the next opening in the wall. Your path veers sharply uphill.
2
NY377175 Follow a twisting pathway through rocks and heather that at times hugs the edge of steep slopes. Heron Pike stands aloof above your head. Keep going over a boggy plateau below the final summit rocks, and in good weather you will make out your path over Greenside above the Glencoyne valley.
3
NY362182 Push on up Greenside beyond the crossing of two paths at the saddle between Sheffield Pike and Whitestones.
Catstye Cam from Sheffield Pike.
4
NY358186 Take a faint path that contours pleasingly round the head of the valley. You can head to Whitestones summit but you lose the sense of height above the valley. Join a larger track to the summit of Hart Crag.
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Accommodation www.gillsidecaravan andcampingsite. co.uk; www. theglenriddinghotel. com; Patterdale YHA 0845 371 9337
NY358197 At the top follow the track that leads towards Birkett Fell before taking a line over unpathed tussocks towards a drystone wall half a mile ahead.
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5 8
9
4 2
Tourist info Penrith (01768) 867466, www.golakes.co.uk
www.viewranger. com/trail Route code TRL0737
NY375184 There are several routes to the car but the quickest and quirkiest is left through a five-bar gate and down towards the holiday holiday lid cottages, tt which hi h you skirt before ending up in a pretty back garden belonging to Glencoyne farm. Follow the signs that lead you onto the arrow-straight track towards the road and Glencoyne Bay car park.
9
NY369193 At a stile in the broken wall, turn right over extremely boggy ground that falls away suddenly. The path becomes more distinct then plunges into a narrow, grassy gully. The gully hits the main Glencoyne path here. Hang a right and enjoy the steep-sided
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Guidebooks Pictorial Guide to The Far Eastern Fells by A Wainwright, pb Frances Lincoln
In association with
NY362182 Take the main path down the flanks of Sheffield Pike towards Seldom Seen.
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Public transport trains to Penrith with limited bus service to Glenridding 0870 608 2608; National Rail Enquiries 08457 484950
GET THIS ROUTE ON YOUR PHONE!
traverse until it regains the col at Nick Head.
6
3 GRADIENT PROFILE
METRES ABOVE SEA LEVEL
Start 1400 1200 1000 800 600 400 200
MILES KILOMETRES
106 TRAIL SEPTEMBER 2015
1 0 0
Sheffield Pike
2
4
3 2
Green Side Hart Side
2
4
5
Finish
6
8
7 6
4
8
9 6
10
12
WALKS OF A LIFETIME
Coniston Round Here’s an absolute classic fellwalk with a mix of valleys, rocky ridges, broad mountaintops and ancient packhorse trails – but most of all lots of lovely summits, says Jeremy Ashcroft.
122 TRAIL SEPTEMBER 2015
Lake District 20km/12½ miles 8 hours
Crossing the nick at the head of Easter Gully en route to Dow Crag’s summit. Goat's Hause, Brim Fell and Swirl How are in the background. TOM BAILEY
SEPTEMBER 2015 TRAIL 123